Travelireland magazine
Volume 2 Issue 10 February 2014
World War 1 Remembered at The National Museum
Dine In Dublin Romance blossoms on the 14th
Sailing north with Titanic Fervour Inside Carrick Fergus Castle
Opening Times: Tues – Sat 10am – 5pm Sun 2pm – 5pm
NEW EXHIBITION NOW OPEN
Admission free. f
RECOVERED VOICES Stories of the Irish at War, 1914 – 1915
Collins Barracks, Benburb Street, Dublin 7 www.museum.ie
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www.travelirelandmagazine.com Twitter: @traveliremag Facebook: Travel Ireland Magazine
Welcome to our February issue, Whether this is your first time visiting these our shores, or whether you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. Whether it is myths and medieval castles, or craic and culture in the confines of a cozy pub and to the tune of a stray tin whistle, you are going to need a friendly hand to gently point you in the right direction. So from all of us here at Travel Ireland, a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte! And enjoy your stay!
Publisher/Managing Director John Carey Director Paul Daly Features Editor Sarah Betts Design and Art Direction Tim Evans Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas nichola@ellenmediacom.ie Advertising John Carey john@ellenmediacom.ie 087 9113732 Bill Daly bill@travelirelandmagazine.ie 087 1533262 Sabrina Morris sabrina@travelirelandmagazine.ie Tel. 087 2020234 Contributors: Adam Patterson Photograhy, Arran Henderson, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Stephen Walker. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National TrustGiants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. And to Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishe’rs prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
contents... 04 - WELCOME TO LEINSTER 06 - EXPLORE LEINSTER 08 - The Irish at War 10 - Dublin Decoded 12 - THEATRE 14 - Dine in Dublin Festival 16 - LEINSTER RESTAURANTS 18 - LEINSTER PUBS 20 - All Tech Craft Beer Fair 21 - Fisherman Out of Ireland 23 - Peoploes Head Chef Interview 26 - WELCOME TO MUNSTER 27 - Waterford New Music Week 28 - MUNSTER PUBS 29 - MUNSTER RESTAURANTS 30 - EXPLORE MUNSTER 32 - The Gathering 34 - WELCOME TO CONNAUGHT 35 - TedFest 2015 37 - CONNAUGHT RESTAURANTS 38 - CONNAUGHT PUBS 40 - EXPLORE CONNAUGHT 42 - WELCOME TO ULSTER 43 - EXPLORE ULSTER 44 - The Tiantic Belfast Experience 46 - ULSTER PUBS 47 - ULSTER RESTAURANTS 48 - The Lyric Theatre 50 - Carrickfergus Castle
Leinster - The east coast province
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Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital
Dublin city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.
Hill of Tara
County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of 4 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, Kilkenny Castle the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls
stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum . Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.
Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
Fisherman Out of Ireland, Ballymoon, Kilcar, County Donegal, Ireland Tel.: +353 74 973 8233, Fax: +353 74 973 8236 E-mail: info@fishermanoutofireland.com, Web: www.fishermanoutofireland.com
Explore Leinster
The National Stud The Chester Beatty Library The Irish National Stud has been producing winners on the racecourse since they sent out Minoru to win the Epsom Derby in 1909. But it is far more than just a centre of equine excellence. It is also home to some of Ireland’s finest natural treasures, in particular the breathtakingly beautiful Japanese Gardens, the finest of their kind in Europe. The gardens trace the passage of a soul from birth to death and beyond, at the same time providing a meeting place for the cultures of East and West. You can also savour the serene and spiritual experience provided by one of the Stud’s more recent additions, St Fiachra’s Garden, a stunningly raw representation of our country’s singular landscape. There are guided tours, a gift shop and restaurant. Tel: 045 521 617
Glendalough
This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. Tel 0404 45325/45352. 6 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3 and 4pm. Opening hours, 10-5 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5pm. Tel 01 407 0750
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01453 5984.
The Book of Kells
The Guinness Storehouse
Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. Tours are 16.50 Euro, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding. Tel 01 408 4800
The Old Library and the Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College Dublin are the first things that all visitors gravitate to when first setting foot in Dublin. Located in the heart of the city, a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College will bring visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. And upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the magical environs of the justly famous Long Room. Inside the Book of Kells itself is a 9thcentury gospel manuscript famous throughout the world for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as “insular majuscule”. Guided tours of the campus, including the Old Library, The Books of Kells, and the magnificent Long Room upstairs are 12 Euro. Opening hours: 9:30-5:00 (4:30 Sun) Tel 01 896 1661
Explore Leinster
Jameson Visitors Centre
Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7 Experience the Jameson Distillery tour and let their expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson. Set in a recreated distillery scene, all visitors learn how three ingredients make the number one Irish whiskey in the world. Guided tours last one hour and include a signature Jameson drink. Volunteers are selected to partake in a tutored whiskey tasting where each person receives a much coveted Irish Whiskey Taster Certificate. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. 01 807 2348
Cultural and Historical Walking Tours The streets of Dublin have been home to the Vikings, Normans, Elizabethans, Georgians and Victorians. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer. At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. From “How To Read A Painting:symbols and meaning at the National Gallery” to Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own tour. See www.dublindecoded.com
The War Memorial Gardens
When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. 01 475 7816
The National Museum of Ireland
The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours. Tel 01 6777444.
Avondale House and Forest Park
Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-1891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www. coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park. 0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com
Casino Marino
The Casino was designed by Sir William Chambers as a pleasure house for James Caulfield, 1st Earl of Charlemont, and is one of the finest 18th century neo-classical buildings in Europe. The Casino, meaning “small house”, and notwithstanding its name, contains 16 finely decorated rooms, endlessly rich in subtlety and design. It is a remarkable building, both in terms of its structure and its history. The Casino is located at Marino, just off the Malahide Road and only three miles north of the centre of Dublin. Open 10-5pm, admission 3 Euro, 1 Euro for students and children. Tel 01 833 1618 DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 7
Recovered Voices
Stories of the Irish at War 1914 - 1915 at the National Museum of Ireland
U
ntold stories of Ireland’s brave country men of the past have come to The National Museum of Ireland. Recovered Voices – Stories of the Irish at War 1914 - 1915 was officially opened by Minister Heather Humphreys. Minister Humphreys profoundly commented that : “This major new exhibition at the National Museum is an important element of the Decade
8 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
of Centenaries, which is being led by my Department. The Irish experience of World War 1 was complex and varied. Through a series of personal stories, this exhibition highlights how Irish men and women were involved and brings to life the difficult choices and extremely harsh conditions they faced throughout 1914 and 1915.” The exhibition will explore the textured complexity of WWI and its connection to the Irish who fought and died in it. The Exhibition
will show the ways in which countless Irish men and women’s life were forever changed by The Great War. Recovered Voices delves into the social, economic and political reasons why so many Irish soldiers joined the British Army. Through text panels displayed over two galleries and twenty one personal stories linked to exhibition objects, visitors will be able to enter the past and discover the fate of those who experienced the The Great War first hand.
Recovered Voices
Stories of the Irish at War 1914 - 1915 at the National Museum of Ireland
Complimenting The Recovered Voices exhibition will be Pals – The Irish At Gallipoli -Untold Stories Of The 7th Battalion Of The Royal Dublin Fusileers During WW1. The award-winning ANU Productions have created a profound and immersive adventure, that is based upon the events surrounding WWI in Ireland. The performance is inspired by untold stories of the 7th Battalion of the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who swapped their jerseys on the rugby field for fatigues on the battlefield – PALS aims to give audiences a evocative glimpse into the life and death of a brotherhood of players who were tragically wiped out in the merciless trenches of war. Performances of the show run from February 2nd to April 30th Wednesday through Sunday. Matthew Smyth, Producer of PALS commented ‘’At a time when Ireland is exploring the decade of the foundation of the state, ANU’s work is an important critique of our social and cultural history. Presented with empathy, sophistication and artistic rigor. Bringing voices of the past to the fore, PALS delves into historical events of WW1 with both scalpel like precision and dreamlike intensity.’’ As we approach Spring time and the remembrance of the Easter Rising of 1916, a visit to Recovered Voices – Stories of the Irish at War 1914 - 1915, could prove to be a timely and profound remembrance of all sides of war and it’s tragic fruitless nature.
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 9
DUBLIN DECODED: Public Art Temple Bar - Grumpy God to Long Boats
D
ublin is full of public art, both the public-funded and the urban-guerrilla variety. Temple Bar boasts the richest smorgasbord of all. Here’s a sample from the taster menu.
OLD SCHOOL: THE RIVER GODS
On the corner of Number 6 Westmoreland and Fleet Street stands the old Northern Assurance building, designed by G.C. Ashlin, with these terrific stone River God heads echoing those on O’Connell Bridge nearby. Bands of rough, irregular texture on stonework is called “rustication” and is easy to spot on this building, either side of the doleful looking heads. This particular pattern, of dense wandering lines, is “Vermication”, a term that roughly translates as “worm tracks”!
TREE OF TAPS
The Green Building completed 1994, (architects Bernard Gilna and Muire O’Leary; engineer Tim Cooper) is a prototype ecobuilding with photovoltaic and solar panels and a 160-meter deep borehole drawing geothermal heat from the earth. The technology was ambitious and experimental 20 years back so inevitably not all has survived. Yet symbolizing the whole noble intent is this massive, powerful “tap of trees” door, by Dutch born artist Remco de Fouw, with its rich green patina and riot of heavyindustrial meets submariner devices, of valves, thermostats, portholes, then, madly, this branching tree, flowering with taps.
REGENCY RAKE
Graffiti and street painting is undergoing a sort of Renaissance. My favourite is this mural painter, Conor Harrington, whose unsigned work adorns the small enclosed courtyard alongside the Olympia theatre, accessible either from Dame street or (for the more adventurous) from Essex Street via the tiny “gallery-alley” of Crampton Court.
VIKING WALL
Another terrific artist, Grace Weir and this incident-packed piece, my personal #1 favorite piece of public art in Dublin. Details like significant dates etched into the beautifully dyed coloured cement wall slabs, as well as small cast bronze insets, depicting Norse weapons, coins, combs and toys recovered by archaeologists from Viking Dublin in (and underneath) the area you are standing. A masterpiece, replete with detail and discovery, brimming with the Norse underlay of our complex, layered old capital city.
10 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
NEW SEASON ON SALE NOW THEATRE /// DANCE /// ART /// MUSIC /// CINEMA Main Street, Bray, Co Wicklow // 01 2724030
www.mermaidartscentre.ie
Theatre
The Abbey Lippy
Building on the long-established and close relationship between Harold Pinter and The Gate Theatre, They will be presenting The Caretaker for the first time. This was the first of Pinter’s plays to bring him recognition and artistic success. It explores relationships and the struggle for power using comedy and tragedy to create a play that elicits complex reactions in the audience. Tuesday 10th February - 26th March
The Abbey Theatre presents the awardwinning Lippy by Dead Centre who were recently tipped by The Guardian’s Lyn Gardner as one to watch. Lippy combines theatre, video and dance in a totally innovative way to tell a story. It was inspired by the real life story of four women, an aunt and three nieces, who barricaded themselves into their house in County Kildare in 2000, starving to death over 40 days, and leaving very few clues as to why they did it. 29 January – 14 February Tel 01 878 722
The Gate
The Caretaker By Harold Pinter
Tel: 01 874 4045
National Concert Hall Masterworks : Essential Bach
The IBO explores the extended Bach family in this very enjoyable Dublin concert series. This Sunday afternoon concert delves into the wonderful works of Bach, including ; Concertante for flute oboe and bassoon in E flat major, WC37, Brandenburg Concerto No 6, BWV 1051 and Symphony in G minor, opus 6 no. 6 WC 12. Sun 1st Feb Tel: 01 417 0000 Or go to www.nch.ie
The Gaiety John B Keane’s Moll Following the pervious critical and popular success of Moll, it will return to the Gaiety Theatre. This production of Moll is directed by David Horan, produced by Donal Shiels, with executive producers Caroline Downey and Denis Desmond.Moll stars Frank Kelly (Father Jack in Father Ted) as His Lordship The Bishop, Des Keogh (The Love Hungry Farmer by John B. Keane, which played to packed houses in the
Jesus Christ Superstar
12 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
Gaiety last year. 27 January 2015 - 14 February Tel: 01 679 5622
Bord Gais Energy Theatre Jesus Christ Superstar
Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s ground-breaking rock opera, returns to the stage in 2015 in an explosive new production. Leading performer Glenn Carter is set to return as Jesus, a role he has played in the West End, on Broadway and on film. His extensive musical theatre credits include leading roles in Whistle Down the Wind, Les Misérables, Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, Godspell and Merrily We Roll Along. 03 Feb-14 Feb 2015 Tel: 01 677 7999
Mermaid County Wicklow Arts Centre The Girl Who Forgot to Sing Badly
In this play, presented by Theatre Lovett, Peggy O’Hegarty and her parents are packers. They squeeze fruit into tins, foxes into boxes, even bikes into brown paper bags. And all the while Peggy sings with the voice of an angel. We learn about love, loss, the reassurance of goats and the courage to sing gloriously on or off-key. Originally produced by The Ark in association with Theatre Lovett. Funded by an Arts Council Touring Award. Tuesday 3 February Tel: 01 677 7999
236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057
236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057
236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057
Dine In Dublin Festival
O
n the 23rd of February the Dine In Dublin Festival returns for it’s triumphant sixth year as one of Dublin’s most popular food festivals that gives devoted foodies everything that they could want! The festival runs from the 23rd of February to the 1st of March and will involve a whole week of demonstrations, events and lots of tasty dishes to be discovered! This year over 40 restaurants will be attending the festival each with their own unique culinary flavor to add to the eclectic event! Cuisine choices will range from Italian to Lebanese and every conceivable flavor combination in between! Dine In Dublin.ie was created to provide information to food lovers searching for the perfect place to enjoy both their favorite cuisine and those trying to discover new and hidden restaurants around Dublin City. For over five years, Dine In Dublin. ie has hosted the Dine In Dublin Festival which aims to give exclusive dining offers and new introductions to the huge wealth of wonderful eateries currently providing exciting cuisine throughout Dublin City. It has helped to put several blossoming restaurants on the map and aided thousands of foodies in discovering their new favorite place to eat! So from the 23rd of February come and experience the huge selection of exciting foods offered in Dublin City, enjoy and bon appetite!
14 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
777
7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 425 4052
Thornton’s Restaurant
Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. tel 01 478 7008
There’s been a huge influx of Chinese in Dublin of late, and the choice of Chinese food in the city has improved no end. But this is still the best place to find dim sum. And significantly, most of the people you’ll find eating here are other Chinese diners.
Super Miss Sue
Drury St, Dublin 2. tel 01 679 9009 One of the few places to get really great fresh fish in the centre of town, and surprisingly affordable. You can treat yourself to a full meal in the restaurant proper, or a traditional fish and chips of exceptional quality in the diner next door.
A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing.
Acapulco Mexican Restaurant
7 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 1085
Darwin’s Restaurant
80 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 7511
This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.
Yamamori
71-2 S. George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 475 5001
This family run restaurant caters to all possible tastes, whether carnivorous, coeliac or vegetarian. Their own in house butcher provides them with meats, game and poultry, they have fresh fish and a wide selection of dishes made from locally sourced vegetables. And you can finish it all off with their homemade desserts.
Fade Street Social
4 Fade St, Dublin 2. tel 01 604 0066 The latest venture from Dublin’s hottest hipster chef Dylan McGrath, this manages to be both screamingly fashionable and a really good restaurant, without being overpowering. It’s not quite as casual as it would have you believe, but it is really, really good.
This lively Mexican Restaurant offers the very best traditional Mexican cuisine, with sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and, best of all their famous deep fried icecream!
Ciao Bella Roma
24-5 Parliament St., Dublin 2. tel 01 677 0004
Café Topolis
37 Parliament St, Dublin 2. tel 01 670 4961 The original Yamamori on George’s Street still serves up the best and simplest Japanese food in Dublin. But Yamamori Sushi, their sushi bar on the quays, runs it a close second. And if you’re looking for something a bit more funky, there’s always Yamamori Izakaya.
The Good World
18 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 5373
These are the best pizzas you’ll find north of Naples, and are very much of the Neapolitan variety rather than the much thinner Roman sort. And their special lunch deal, which gives you a pizza and glass of wine for around a tenner is not just the best value lunch in town, it’s the best lunch full stop.
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Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
Le Bon Crubeen
81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1. tel 01 704 1026
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value.
Peploe’s
16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. 01 676 3144
KC Peaches
28-9 Nassau St, Dublin 2 01 633 6872 There are four KC Peaches (so far) in the centre of town, but the one opposite Trinity on Nassau Street is probably the best known of them. They specialise in giving you the freshest of ingredients with which to fashion your own lunch. Their salads are especially impressive.
The Elephant & Castle This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.
Whitefriar Grill
16 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 9003
19 temple Bar, Dublin 2 01 679 3121
Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.
Il Primo
16 Montague St., Dublin 2. 01 478 3373
Dublin’s original American style casual diner, if you haven’t had their spicy chicken wings during your stay here, you really haven’t visited Dublin’s Temple Bar at all. But go early or in the middle of the afternoon, because it gets very busy at lunch.
Mao’s Restaurant Chatham Row, Dublin 2 01 670 4899
One of the best of the oriental fusion restaurants, there are actually four of them now out in Stillorgan, Dundrum and Dun Laoghaire as well as here in town. Thai and Asian flavoured noodles and rice, they offer an extensive menu at a reasonable price. And the food is top notch.
Zaytoon
14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel. 01 677 3595.
They pride themselves on putting brunch back on the menu, and in producing the best brunch in Dublin. But there’s a lot more than that going on at this superior smart casual restaurant. Their latest Ribs N Rump gives you a 14oz steak and a choice of ribs plus 2 sides for just €40 on Sunday nights.
Kafka Restaurant
236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6. 01 497 7057
“If you want to taste risotto made as it should be, you’ll need to go to Il Primo,.” So says Paolo Tullio of the Irish Independent. And this restaurant has been producing some of the best rustic, Italian food you’ll find anywhere in Dublin for over 20 years now.
Aqua Restaurant 1 West Pier, Howth 01 832 0690
One of the best places to get a bite to eat at the seaside village of Howth, Aqua is at the very end of the pier. So you get spectacular views of the sea, as you munch contentedly on creatures that were recently living there. And they’ve a good value early bird menu to take advantage of too.
Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 17
Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Stag’s Head 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 01 679 3687
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.
The Grave Diggers Hidden away just off of Dame Street, there’s been a tavern here on this corner for over 200 Years. And the Stags has long been a traditional haunt for Trinity students, and for the stars of film and television that they grow up to become. Whilst downstairs you can see comedy on Mondays or Irish Trad at the weekends.
Hourican’s Bar
7 Leeson St Lwr, Dublin 2 01 678 9030
Gravediggers
28 Parliament St, Kilkenny 056 776 2573
It reads “John Kavanagh” above the door outside, but everybody knows it as the Grave Diggers, as it’s just around the corner from Glasnevin Cemetery. Before Gunness became so efficiently corporate and the quality of a pint was far less predictable, this used to be where you’d go for the best pint in Dublin. It still is, and they haven’t changed a thing here for years. Happily.
Cleere’s pulls off that rare trick of successfully being two things at the same time. Out the front, it’s a classic, traditional Irish pub. And out back, it’s an exciting theatre that plays host to gigs and plays. And they are as serious about the acts that they allow perform there as they are about keeping the atmosphere exactly the same as it’s always been.
Johnnie Fox’s
Glencullen, Co Dublin. 01 295 5647 Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster.
Situated at the Stephen’s Green end of Leeson Street, this is the perfect place to stop off for a quiet pint before heading off to some of the more glitzier venues in town proper, or on to the rest of the Leeson Street strip.
Grogan’s
15 S William St., Dublin 2 01 677 9320
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Cleere’s Bar and Theatre
1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9 01 8307978
Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Porterhouse
Temple Bar, 16-8 Parliament St, Dublin 2 01 679 8847
There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.
Sweeney’s Bar 32 dame St, Dublin 2 01 635 0056
One of the more recent additions to the Dublin pub scene, you can get to it either from Dame St or from the back of the Stag’s Head. And once inside, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d strayed into a Spanish or Greek taverna. The place is hopping at weekends with students and hipsters earnestly nodding their heads to the bands who play there. And out back, where Sweeneys meets the Stags is a veritable melting pot come the small hours of the morning.
Slattery’s of Rathmines
217-19 Lower Rathmines Rd, Dublin 6
There’s plenty to do in Dublin’s unofficial student quarter, but the only place to go drinking in Rathmines is really here at Slattery’s. No felt, carpet or neon in sight and only the odd television to stain this otherwise classic spit and sawdust pub. Enjoy it while you can as they seem to be going the way of the dodo.
The No Name Bar 3 Fade St, Dublin 2 01 648 0010
Officially it’s the bar above Kelly’s Hotel, opposite the Market Bar and next door to Hogan’s but locals only ever refer to it as the No Name bar. Up on the first floor they’ve taken a suite of elegant Victorian rooms and turned them into a laid back, fashionable bar, complete with a terraced smoking area. And, as you’d expect, they serve up a mean cocktail.
The Liquor Rooms 7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 087 339 3688
Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to
Doheny & Nesbitt’s 5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 01 676 2945
One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier. resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 19
All Tech
Craft Beer Fair
T
he highly popular All Tech Craft Beer Festival comes back to The Dublin Convention Centre on February the 27th for it’s third year and is open to the public with a wide range of craft beers available to be discovered by those with a passion for unique beers. There will also be a selection of specially chosen spirits.
20 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
The Fair brings a selection of local and international craft beers with both established and growing labels. It will also feature tasty culinary dishes that prove to be wonderful accompaniments to the finest of craft beers. There will also be musical entertainment to accompany the wonderful food and beer on offer. Music will be performed throughout the fair by various musical artists from across the country, with music styles ranging from pop to rock. There will also be chefs and food experts present during the fair. They will be sharing recipes and giving some fantastic tips on easy and tasty dishes that can be the perfect accompaniment to a lovely cold craft beer! There will be over 60 breweries present at the fair this year, with featured breweries included being Hilden, The Porter House, Eight Degrees Brewing and White Gypsy. So come along to The All Tech Craft Beer Fair and enjoy good food, music and exciting and enticing new craft beers!
F
isherman Out of Ireland is based in the village of Kilcar, in county Donegal in the far North West of Ireland. And if ever there were a part of the world where quality knitwear would be appreciated, it is this particular corner of Ireland. Indeed, there is a long tradition here in south west Donegal of producing the kind of clothing that can stand up to the howling gales and driving rain that comes in to smother the land from the wilds of the Atlantic ocean. Fisherman Out of Ireland wanted to take that proud tradition and propel it into the modern world. Their range of knitwear was established here back in 1991, and from the very beginning they were determined to produce garments that were as stylish as they were durable. Without however losing sight of the central importance of producing garments of only the very highest quality. They use only 100% natural fibres, such as merino wool and cashmere to create their authentic knitwear. And the yarns they use provide a wonderfully soft feel, as well as providing wearers with their much needed insulating properties.They tend to favour the earthy, natural look which is entirely appropriate, and in keeping with their understandable concern for the environment, and for doing their best to preserve it just as it is. Happily, much of the yarn they use is spun by Donegal Yarns, a mill based in the same village as they are. Because of which, they are able to keep their carbon footprint down to a bare minimum. The village of Kilcar where they are located might be one of the more isolated, and therefore beautiful corners of the island, but they ship their ware from there to all four corners of the globe. Their extensive range of knitwear for gents and ladies is sold not only in Ireland, but in Europe, the United States and Asia. Indeed, the company has been so successful at taking a quintessentially local product and turning it into a global one, that they have won the coveted “Exporter of the year“ from the Crafts Council of Ireland for two successive years, in both 2012 and 2013. With that quiet Donegal smile, they are, they like to say, the Kerrygold of the North. Each season since its launch the Fisherman range has grown and evolved, and today their range features something for everyone: hats, scarves, gloves, wraps and capelets made from luxurious quality yarns. From chunky wool and cashmere sweaters in ribs and stitches, inspired by the traditional Aran patterns, to merino wools, Lambwools and felted wools. And it all manages to look wonderfully traditional, unmistakably Irish and yet impressively stylish and contemporary.
TOURS
EVENTS
GENEALOGY
EDUCATION
GLASNEVIN CEMETERY & MUSEUM
www.glasnevintrust.ie For further information contact T: +353 (0)1 882 6550 E: booking@glasnevinmuseum.ie
Peploes Head Chef Interview
N
eil Mulholland explains how he came to be head chef at Dublin’s famous Peploe’s Wine Bistro. Peploe’s is a roomy, plush bistro in a basement on Dublin’s Stephen’s Green. But despite the impressively salubrious surroundings it is, according to the Head Chef there, a bistro. They are not looking to reproduce some sort of old World “fine dining” experience, any more than they are going to waste time following whatever the latest fashion happens to be in the increasingly elaborate milieu of the world’s best restaurants. “Beef that’s been dry aged for at least 28 days. Sometimes it can be for as long as 50 days. But for at least 28 days, that’s the sort of thing that I’m interested in, rather than whatever the latest fads are. It’s really important that your beef has good marbling, because that’s where all the flavour comes from.” Neil studied cooking at the RTC in Athlone before winning a scholarship to travel to the Black Forest in Germany, where he lived for a year and a half. After which, he returned to Dublin to study baking at Kevin St. It was then that he hooked up with Barry Canny, and together they opened their first restaurant together, Browne’s Brasserie around the corner on Kildare St. And for the last 16 years, the pair have struck up a formidable partnership. In between Browne’s and opening Peploe’s 11 years ago, Neil spent a couple of years travelling, stopping off in Namibia and Angola before eventually ending up in Australia. He worked in the famous Iceberg’s, on Bondi Beach, an Italian restaurant whose speciality was fried sheep’s brains. During his time there, Neil lived all over Australia, including a spell on Lizard Island, which is situated 240 kilometres out on the Great Barrier Reef. But the taste he’d developed for diving and for spear fishing during his time down under had to be carefully handled while he was living on the island. “It was originally a volcanic island, and in the evening you could climb up the hills and look down on all the sharks that would congregate around the island in the waters below as the sun went down. So not much diving was done there!” On his way back home to Ireland, he stopped off in Thailand and then later in Hong Kong and China. There he tasted any number of unusual delicacies. Including live ants(!), which he maintains taste a lot like lemon, and have now become a favourite in Copenhagen’s celebrated Noma. And fried grasshoppers, which are wonderfully crunchy and, apparently, a lot like fried dragon flies. But for the last 11 years he’s been running the kitchens at Peploe’s. 7 days a week, lunch and dinner, it’s significantly roomier than its 80 covers would suggest. And they are now offering a three course meal for just €24.50. Which given the surroundings, is surprisingly affordable.
01 676 3144 DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 23
Valentines Dates in Dublin
V
alentine’s Day, the most romantic day of the year falls on a Saturday in 2015, making it the perfect date night! Dublin is often thought of as being the city of culture but it knows how to be romantic! Here are a few ideas for the perfect Valentine’s date in Dublin in this year! The Lighthouse Cinema Smithfield hosts the first Hollywood Babylon event of the year, a party night that showcases a chosen cult film with a themed party and pulls out all the stops to ensure guests have a good time! On February 14th there will a fabulously fun 80’s themed Valentine’s Party and a special showing of the 80’s dance classic Footloose! There will be a Prom style photo booth, punch, dance-offs and prizes for best dressed. So if you and your date are feeling footloose and fancy free on the 14th, then head to The Lighthouse Cinema Smithfield and kick off your Sunday shoes! If you are hoping for more of a low key musical date then you and your chosen paramour can visit The National Concert Hall for ‘Valentine’s with Declan O’Rourke’.
24 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
O’Rourke is one of Ireland most exciting singer/song writer talents and he returns to The National Concert Hall to serenade attendees with romantic ballads and wistfully composed stories of love, the perfect music to cuddle up to! For those lovers who are looking for a really unique way to celebrate Valentines Day, Dublin Zoo has the perfect event for you! On The 14th of Feburary 2015, Dublin Zoo will once again open it’s gates at 8am for just one hundred couples to give them a very special romantic tour of the Zoo’s animal Kingdom! On arrival couples will be treated to a breakfast picnic and the chance to take a quiet stroll around the Zoo. Special keeper talks on the courtship, breeding and the exotic romantic rituals of some of the zoo’s best loved animals will take place all morning. At the end of the tour a special goodie bag and souvenir key ring will be gifted to each couple as a romantic reminder of their Valentine’s Day date at Dublin Zoo! So what ever activities you and your date enjoy you are sure to find a memorable way to spend the day of love in beautiful Dublin City!
Romantic Hotel Packages
V
alentine’s Day can be the perfect time to take a trip with the one you love and escape the stresses of everyday life. And with Valentine’s Day falling on Saturday in 2015, a Valentine’s weekend break could make it a February the 14th to remember! Now let’s look at two wonderful hotels who offer fantastic Valentine’s breaks for couples!
The first Hotel is the beautifully located and highly recommended
Killarney Royal Hotel. This stunning
hotel is located in County Kerry and would be the perfect destination for a romantic getaway for two. They offer two decadent packages for those wishing to spend Valentine’s together in pure luxury.
Valentines Break-One Night Stay Indulge in a romantic one night break away at the Killarney Royal Hotel in the heart of Killarney Town. Enjoy our homemade chocolates that will be waiting for you in your luxurious room. Dine on Valentines night with a 4 course evening meal in the romantic ambience of the Candle Room Restaurant. Next morning wake up to our delicious full Irish Breakfast and enjoy a late checkout available until 1.30pm. From €143 per room.
Valentines Break-Two Night Stay Enjoy a romantic break at the Killarney Royal Hotel with two nights’ luxurious accommodation in a Royal Room and Full Irish Breakfast each morning. Indulge in a delectable 4 course evening meal in the Candle Room Restaurant on one evening of your choice. To add to the celebration, you will receive a bottle of sparkling wine and chocolates in your room on arrival. From €109 per person sharing.
The second hotel is
The Twelve Pins Hotel in County Galway,
a beautifully placed haven of tranquility, perfect for couples who are looking for a quiet haven to enjoy each other’s company! The hotel even has a relaxing spa; The Le Petit Spa which offers many pampering treatments including Voya Seaweed baths.
If you are looking for a really romantic way to spend Valentine’s with your paramour either of these wonderful hotels could be the perfect choice!
They offer ‘The Valentine’s Love Bomb Surprise Package’. Your large suite will have petals strewn across the bed and you will find two tasty red iced muffins fresh from the Twelve Hotel’s Pins Bakery. You will also be provided with a delicious packed picnic, a candle-lit dinner, pampering inroom spa treatments, Love Potion cocktails in The Pins bar, fun framed caricatures as a memento of a special weekend, a wrapped rose on checkout and even a discount gift voucher for Hartman’s Jewellers just in case engagement ring shopping is in your future! This romantic overnight package is available on February 14th at a cost of €470 per couple, with the option of staying two nights for an extra €120 per couple.
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 25
Welcome to Munster
M
unster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights
Limerick and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week 26 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings Fota Wildlife Park are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Contact : Telephone No: 062 61437. E-mail: rockofcashel@opw.ie. County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity
to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
Waterford New Music Week
F
rom the 23rd to the 29th of March the Waterford New Music Week returns to Waterford! The festival aims to celebrate music composition & performance through workshops, talks, lunchtime recitals and evening concerts. The Waterford New Music Week is presented by the Department of Creative & Performing Arts, WIT and Garter Lane Arts Centre, with the support of the Arts Council and Waterford City Council. All daytime events are free and take place across the city; from the Cork Road & College Street campuses of WIT, to Garter Lane Theatre, Christ Church Cathedral and the Central Library. With it’s free events and it’s open accessibility to all in Waterford, the Waterford New Music Week is the perfect way to welcome 2015 and the coming spring, celebrating both new and cherished music compositions. Waterford New Music Week is now in it’s 17th year and the festival is the only annual contemporary music festival outside of Dublin and Belfast. The Waterford New Music Week celebrates contemporary music and gives the opportunity for the performance of new music.The festival celebrates a huge selection of musical genres including instrumental, jazz, electro-acoustic and choral. The Festival provides concerts, workshops and lectures that aim to bring together everyone across Waterford in the unity of music!
Garter Lane
Garter Theatre DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 27
Recommended Pubs in Munster
The Bierhaus Pope’s Quay, Cork 021 455 1648
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.
An Brog
72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork 021 4270074
kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.
Jack Meades (under the bridge) Dunmore Rd, Waterford 051 850 950
Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.
Dick Mack’s
Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry 066 915 1960
An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.
Buckley’s Bar
The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. 064 6631037
Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick 061 314 483 (ext 1)
The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the
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Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.
Recommended Restaurants in Munster x
The Old Convent Clogheen, Co Tipperary 052 746 5565
The Lime Tree
Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Co Kerry 064 664 1225
Out of the Blue Dingle Harbour (066) 915 0811.
Hidden away in the village of Clogheen, with the possible exception of the Cashel Palace, this is the finest restaurant in the whole of county Tipperary. Only one sitting at 8pm, and a set tasting menu at 65 Euro, this is quite simply one of the finest dining experiences in Ireland.
Ballymaloe House Shanagarry, Co Cork 021 4652 531
Myrtle Allen bought Ballymaloe in 1948 and she and her extended families have been entertaining and educating the rest of the country ever since. Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but whether dining in the restaurant or staying on the grounds, this is about as luxurious as it gets.
Fishy Fishy Café
Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork. 01 470 0415
With the possible exception of Kinsale, Kenmare is Ireland’s unofficial culinary capital. And this is one of the town’s very best restaurants, specializing in wonderfully fresh fish and succulent lamb.
Dromoland Castle
Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare 061 368 144 Quite simply one of the most imposing and impressive castles on these islands, it boasts rooms and a restaurant to match its imperious surroundings.
They serve only only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.
An Canteen Dykgate st Dingle Tel 0866603778.
Ristorante Rossini 33-4 Princess St, Cork city. 021 427 5818 Kinsale is unquestionably the food capital of Ireland, and this by common consent is one of its finest restaurants. Impeccably fresh fish at reasonable prices.
Isaacs Restaurant McCurtain St, Cork city. 021 450 3805
Hidden away in a budget style hotel, Isaacs has always had a reputation with locals for being a considerably better quality restaurant than you might have expected. And as you’d expect, its very reasonably priced too.
Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle.
The Mustard Seed Ballingarry, Co Limerick 069 68508
About 40 minutes outside of Limerick City, off the Adare road, this is one of those roomy country houses that’s been transformed into a top class hotel and restaurant. One of the finest restaurants in Munster.
La Cucina Antonio Toscano opened this Italian restaurant in the heart of Cork City in 1994, and has always gone out of his way to staff it with his fellow country men and women, from both the North and the South of Italy. And it’s this, together with their extensive menu that makes eating here as close to actually dining in Italy as you could hope to find.
5 University Court, Castletroy, County Limerick. Tel 061 333980 Simply one of the best places for a pizza in the country.
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 29
Explore Munster
Cliffs of Moher
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Blarney Castle
The Hunt Museum
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore. 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry ( Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin, passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh, before returning to Killarney via the N72. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.
Bunratty Castle The Burren
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. And notwithstanding how impressive an example it is of a medieval castle, this is probably because of the famous stone you will there at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab. Which needless to say they duly receive. 021 438 5252 30 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. To Begin to discover the secrets of the Burren, a walk through the Burren Centre Exhibition is essential.
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with the experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round.
Dublin Decoded Unique, city walking tours of Art, Architecture and History in Ireland’s capital, with writer, art historian and acclaimed guide Arran Henderson.
To see our 5-star reviews, go to the Dublin Decoded page on TripAdvisor For full menu of tour descriptions and booking details, see www.dublindecoded.com
The Gathering
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O
n the 18th of February the hugely popular traditional Irish music festival The Gathering will return for it’s 16th year. This year it will take place at the INEC and Gleneagle Hotel in Killarney
Co.Kerry. Every year the festival brings together esteemed and celebrated performers of traditional Irish music. Previous popular performers at the festival include Altan and Dervish. The festival includes both local and international traditional artists, all of whom come together in one venue creating one of the most prestigious and enjoyable traditional music festivals. All of the entertainment is showcased among the beautiful scenery. The Gathering 2015 will offer concerts, Ceili’s, live traditional sessions and workshops. The specially organised and always enormously fun, Gathering Ceili’s will be provided by Neily O Connor, Ui Bhriain, 5 Counties Ceilí Band, Striolán Ceilí Band and The Johnny Reidy Ceilí Band. The festival also provides fascinating and educational workshops. Highlights from the workshops include, ‘Songs & Stories from Kerry with Eddie Lenihan & Ray O’ Sullivan’ - an informative workshop about the musical and spoken history of Kerry. ‘Singers Masterclasses/Workshop with Sean Keane, Sean Garvey, Tim Dennehy & Meaiti Jo Sheamuis’ - this workshop will help you learn traditional songs in both Irish and English. ‘Advanced Set Dancing Workshops with Tony Ryan’ - a practical dancing class for those familiar with Set Dancing. The current line up of performances to look forward to at the exciting and lively festival includes:Brogan and Orlaith McAuliffe with A Stor Mo Chroi featuring Pauline Scanlon, Eilish Kennedy, John Spillane, Donagh Hennessy, John McSharry and Dónal O Connor, performing on the 20th of February at The INEC. Traditional Singers Concert With Meaiti Jo Sheamuis O Fatharta, Tim Dennehy, Sean Garvey, Christy Cronin, Meabh Begley, Pat O’Sullivan, Jim Walsh, performing on the 21st of February at The Gleneagle Hotel. Sean Keane & Band, Arcady featuring Johnny Ringo McDonagh, Patsy Broderick, Nell Ni Chronin, Rick Epping, Michelle O Brien, Pete O Halloran, Conor Keane, Angelina Carberry, performing on the 21st of February at The INEC. Dan Brouder & Angelina Carberry, Paudie O Connor, Liam O’Connor, Sean McKeown, Caoimhin Fearghall with Paul Meehan & Seamus O’Donnell, all performing on the 22nd of February at The Gleneagle Hotel. The Scattering Concert With Jackie Daly, Matt Cranitch , Geraldine O Callaghan and Paul De Grae, The Unwanted, Kathy Jordan, Seamus O Dowd and Rick Epping, also performing on the 22nd of February at The INEC. If you are looking for a place to celebrate traditional music, enjoy a ceili or two and learn about the history of Irish music, don’t miss The Gathering 2015!
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 33
Welcome To Connaught
Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands
T
he province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran
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Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film ‘The Quiet The Claddagh by night Man ‘ was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist
are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.
Tedfest 2015
I
rish life and it’s traditions of Catholicism were wonderfully lampooned by the sharply funny and ever quotable Father Ted. Father Ted presented a humorous view of merrily backwards rural Ireland. Tedfest a festival which first began in 2007 offers fans of the show the chance to experience a more innocent Ireland, one where those of the cloth, both priests and nuns alike can party their habits and dog collars off! The island of Inis Mor hosts the festival, welcoming up to three hundred Father Ted fans each year! The festival organisers have a humour as sly as the beloved T.V. show. The festival purposefully takes place within one of the coldest months of an Irish Winter, in order to test the mettle of true Father Ted fans! In February of each year hundreds of Father Ted fans make the journey to Inis Mor Island referred to as ‘Craggy Island’ during the event. This year the 9th annual Tedfest will be held between the 26th of February to the 1st of March. Activities that can be enjoyed during the festival include a chance to play in ‘The Craggy Cup’ 5-aside-football match, with the chance of the honour to lift ‘The Craggy Cup’ if you win! The game is refereed by the late great Dermot Morgan’s son, Rob Morgan. ‘Ted’s Got Talent’ offers attendees the chance to attend and take part in a eclectic Father Ted style talent show! The infamous ‘Lovely Girls’ contest from the show is lovingly recreated with the loveliest of ladies competing to win the coveted sash! New events appearing this year will be ‘Elvis Cage Fighting’ where game entrants will dress up in iconic Elvis outfits and fight to the (pretend) death! And ‘Lingerie Orienteering’ which will see anyone who fancies donning giant knickers and galavanting through the rural surrounds, taking part in a hike with a difference and will surely be as much fun as it sounds! So If you’re looking for a way to be truly immersed in the world of Father Ted and have great ‘craic’ then take a trip to Craggy Island for Tedfest!
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A Little Piece of Donegal in Dublin
T
his family run business is run by the mother and daughter team of Carol and Linda-Mae Meagle. Opened in 1995, they are based in the heart of the shopping district of Dublin on the top floor of the St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2. The Donegal Shop aims to offer a little piece of Donegal in Dublin. A vast range of traditional knitwear, handknit arans and knitwear and accessories are available, as well as handwoven Donegal tweed jackets,
caps and throws and pens. With the emphasis of what is “imagined, designed, and made in Ireland”, the shop not only stocks products from Donegal but from all over the country, such as Foxford Woollen Mills and Carraig Donn, all made in Ireland. They also provide a shipping service, so no matter how much you buy, you won’t have to carry it! You can check out their online store before you visit the shop itself at www.thedonegalshop.com
IRISH CRAFT SHOP Est. 1995
Specialists in Irish Knitwear, Tweeds and Wool Products
“ We Sell Traditional Aran Sweaters, Wool & Tweed Products”
Open 7 Days Located on Top Floor of St. Stephens Green Centre Mention this Ad for a discount!
www.donegalshop.ie IRISH CRAFT SHOP Est. 1995
in Irish Knitwear, “ We SellSpecialists Traditional Aran Sweaters, Tweeds and Wool Products Wool & Tweed Products”
Open 7 Days Top Floor, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 Located on Top Floor of Phone: 014754621 St. Stephens Green Centre
Website: www.donegalshop.ie Website: www.thedonegalshop.com www.donegalshop.ie
Recommended Restaurants in Connaught
Kai Café
Sea Rd. Galway city. 091 526 003
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.
The Cottage Restaurant Jamestown, Co. Leitrim. 071 962 5933
Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.
Ashford Castle
Cong, Co. Mayo. 094 954 6003 Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.
Upstairs @ West Restaurant The Twelve, Barna, Galway city. 091 597000 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.
Waterfront House Restaurant Enniscrone, County Sligo. 096 37120
Eala Bhán
Rockwood Parade, Sligo town. 071 914 5823
If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.
The Yew Tree Restaurant
Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon. 090 666 1255 Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.
An Port Mór Restaurant
1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo. 098 26730
The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a specialty. DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 37
Recommended Pubs in Connaught
Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons) 17 Cross st, Galway 091 568 820
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.
The Quays
11 Quay St, Galway 091 568 347
Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!
Furey’s Pub Bridge St, Sligo 087 958 3080
Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers.
Bosh Bar and Restaurant Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!
Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo 094 925 0534
Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.
Roísín Dubh
Matt Malloy’s
Lower Dominick St., Galway 091 586 540
Bridge St., Westport 098 26655
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.
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Explore Connaught
Kylemore Abbey
Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was re-opened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.
Glencar Waterfall
Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Inishbofin Island
Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.
Croagh Patrick
Connemara
Mullaghmore
Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.
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Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. 098 64114
Welcome to Ulster
Marble Arch Caves
T
he Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.
is the most notable. The famous mountains or ‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland. Giants Causeway
Malin Head
County Donegal is in the northwest of the Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly 42 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the new
Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Belfast City Hall
Explore Ulster
Titanic Belfast
Since it opened in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, and over a million visitors went through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six story building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the very site where the famous ship was first built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, hull shaped wings which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. The story is brought up to the present with the discovery of the wreck, and into the future with live links to contemporary undersea exploration. And the galleries employ a variety of interactive media including CGI, film, audio, artefacts and full-scale replicas. Not only that, there’s an actual ride through the Titanic giving you a view of how the ship was physically put together. Tel 028 9076 6386
The Giant’s Causeway
The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast north of the town of Bushmills. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to the East to take on a giant who lived over there. Voted by BBC Radio listeners as the fourth greatest natural wonder in the UK, visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations, which have stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic storms for millions of years. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire people. And to stroll along the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time. In 1986 they opened the Giants Causeway Visitors centre, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its coveted list of sites, which are of exceptional interest and universal value. And the National Trust which oversees the Causeway provides the half million tourists who go there every year with any and all the information that they might need.
The Old Bushmills Distillery In 1608, King James I of England granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first ever distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. “Whiskey” with an “e” is Irish by the way, and without is Scotch. And the word itself originated from the Irish word for water, “uisce”. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. In 2008, Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of their original licence to distil whiskey. They marked the occasion with the release of a limited edition Irish whiskey of exceptional smoothness, Bushmills 1608. Today Bushmills Irish Whiskey is owned by Diageo, and over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel 028 2073 3218
Ulster American Folk Park
Situated at the base of the Sperrin mountain range just 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. And you can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. They offer an array of ensuite rooms, and dorms that sleep up to 7 in bunk beds, with linen, laundry and drier rooms, plus kitchens, bathrooms, and TV, DVD and games rooms. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918
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The Titanic Belfast Experience
O
n the 31st of March 2012 ‘Titanic Belfast’ an interactive information centre and museum dedicated to the history of the ill fated ship Titanic, opened it’s doors. It was a long planned project that first broke ground in 2009 and the modern design of it’s building is considered to be an architectural marvel. ‘Titanic Belfast’ brings visitors inside the history of the Titanic’s creation which happened not far from where the museum now stands. The striking building is located in the newly established Titanic Quarter which is now considered to be one of the world’s biggest urban waterfront projects. The Titanic Quarter stretches over 185 acres. It lies across the heritage
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site on which the mighty Titanic was designed, built and first set sail.The Titanic Quarter was developed to be a hub for entertainment, creativity and learning. And it is now one of Belfast’s most popular tourist destinations. The jewel in the crown of The Titanic Quarter is The Titanic Belfast centre. The huge and immaculately designed structure has nine fantastic interactive exhibitions, including a perfectly dressed recreation of the ship’s cabins so that visitors can have an inside view to the journey of each class upon the ship.
The Titanic Belfast Experience
‘Titanic Belfast’ has nine galleries, with each exhibition having multiple dimensions which use interactive reconstructions and fascinating facts about the doomed ship and allows visitors explore the ill fated story of the Titanic . Visitors to the centre can explore the shipyard where the Titanic first came to be. The interactive exhibitions include ‘A Dark Ride’, ‘Under Water
Exploration Theatre’, ‘The Shipyard Ride’, ‘The Sinking’ and ‘The Aftermath’. February is going to be an exciting month at the centre with ‘Titanic Belfast’ marking February as Family Month! From the 1st of February until the 1st of March, ‘Titanic Belfast’ will have many exciting activities for children of all ages to enjoy, happening every weekend throughout the month of February.
The ‘Frank Browne: Through the Lens: Exhibition’ is opening on the 14th of January. Fr. Frank Browne’s Greatest Photographs will be showing through February until the 31st of March. If you are planning a visit to Belfast consider exploring ‘Titanic Belfast’ and discover the hidden history behind the stunning but doomed ship.
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Ulster Recommended Pubs
The Crown Liquor Saloon 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast 028 9024 3187
Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin.
White’s Tavern
2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast 028 9024 3080 Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.
Kelly’s Cellars 30-32 Bank St, Belfast 028 9024 6058
Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.
The John Hewitt 51 Donegall St., Belfast 028 9023 3768
This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.
The Duke Of York 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast 028 9024 1062
One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and
whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.
Peadar O’Donnell’s 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry 028 7126 7295
There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.
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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster
Ox
1 Oxford St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 4121 Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
The Ginger Bistro
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 1150 Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining
7-8 Hope St, Belfast. 0044 28 9024 4421
55 Degrees North
1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim. 0044 28 7082 2811
experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.
Vanilla Restaurant
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.
Deane’s Restaurant
36-40 Howard St, Belfast. 0044 28 9033 1134
67 Main St, Newcastle. 0044 28 4372 2268
Shu
253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast. 0044 28 9038 1655 They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.
Telfords Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast. 0044 28 9043 4000 Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
Lough Erne Resort
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6632 3230
Sun Kee Restaurant
42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 2016 One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.
Lusty Beg
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6863 3300
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most
This island spa is set on a 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Sakura, 82 Botanic Av, Belfast
0044 28 9043 9590 In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.
Speranza Restaurant, 16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast 044 28 9023 0213 Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
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The Lyric Theatre
The Games People Play
T
he Lyric Theatre Belfast opened on the 1st of May 2011. Since then it has gained a reputation as one of the most impressively built and popular theatres in Belfast. The architecture of the building was undertaken by O’Donnell & Tuomey. A Dublin Architectural firm, that has gained international reputation for interesting and innovative structures and the Lyric Theatre is no exception. The still relatively fledgling but blossoming theatre offers two large performance spaces that can seat 125 and 170 people respectively. The Lyric Theatre has become an exciting social hub and creative learning space. As well as showcasing countless different productions the Lyric Theatre also offers professional drama training for those aged eighteen to twenty five years. They offer The Lyric Drama Studio Course, an intensive 6 month course for young people who aspire to work in professional theatre. The Lyric has an exciting upcoming line up, including ‘Heroin’ written and directed by Grace Dyas. The original drama, presented by THEATREclub follows the story of the class A drug and it’s dangerous development in Ireland through history. It begins its run on January 30th. Also showing from the 7th of February will be Death of A Comedian’ which is a dark comic story about the price of success in the world of stand-up comedy and stars Brian Doherty. So for any culture vultures taking a visit to Belfast, the Lyric Theatre is the perfect place to enjoy a night of entertainment!
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Stitched Up
速
Carrickfergus Castle
I
n the town of Carrickfergus, County Antrim, on the northern shore of Belfast Lough stands a beautiful and imposing monument to the past; Carrickfergus Castle. The Castle has stood strong over hundreds of years, surviving being besieged by the Scots, Irish, English and French! The castle is considered to be one of Northern Ireland’s best preserved medieval structures. Carrickfergus Castle has been an important and revered monument on the Northern Ireland landscape for over 800 years. It stands as a surviving historical entry way to the past. The castle can be visited to view wonderfully curated historical displays and timeless cannons from the 17th to the 19th centuries. In 1177 John De Courcy built Carrickfergus Castle to use as his headquarters, following his conquering of eastern Ulster. De Courcy then ruled there as a Petty King until 1204, when Norman adventurer Hugh De Lacy ousted him from his self made throne. In 1797 Carrickfergus Castle became a prison, then for a period during the First World War it was used as a garrison and an ordnance store. Later during the Second World War it was called upon again and used as an air raid shelter. Perhaps what’s most impressive is that the castle’s great Banqueting Hall has now been fully restored and it holds fascinating exhibits that show how life within the castle once was. With an incredible history to share, Carrickfergus Castle is well worth a visit!
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