Travelireland Volume 2 Issue 19 November 2015
Brian Friel Remembered
magazine
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF IRELAND A HISTORIC TOUR
OOH MATRON IT’S THE DUBLIN
Life begins at 60 for
The Cork Film Festival!
BURLESQUE FESTIVAL! Plus Restaurants, Shopping & much more...
Love is funny...
BUT THE MATCHMAKER IS HILARIOUS
starring Jon Kenny & Mary McEvoy Gaiety Theatre 9-14 Nov
Gallery Zozimus
56 Francis Street, Dublin 8, PH : 4539057 Nubian Ibex by Michael Keane Bronze
Lilly Pond Botanic Gardens by Andrii Trushkevych Oil on Canvas
Sun & Moon by Fidelma Massey Ceramic
Propeller fish by Ivan Panov Ceramic
Dublins Largest Ceramic Gallery incorporating Fine Art Over 70 Ceramic Artists on Show
Email: info@galleryzozimus.ie, Web: www.galleryzozimus.ie
CONTENTS 04 06 08 10 12 14 16 18 20 24 26 27 28 30 31 32 34 36 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 47 48 49 50
Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag
Welcome To Leinster
Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our November issue. Whether this is your first time visiting our shores, or you are returning Explore Leinster once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at The National Museum of Ireland Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide Theatre you as you plan your stay here. There’s so much to do and see all Explore Leinster year round in Ireland and November is no exception. Head to The Gaiety to catch The Matchmaker or enjoy the delights of the Dublin Dublin Burlesque festival Burlesque Festival. Read about the history of the Cork Opera House The Matchmaker or take a trip to the National Museum of Ireland. Head to the Cork Leinster Pubs Film Festival or celebrate Ireland’s storytelling history at the Yarn Leinster Restaurants Storytelling Festival. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte. Recommended Shopping Enjoy your stay. Yarn Storytelling Festival Welcome To Munster Explore Munster Munster Pubs Munster Restaurants November Festival Listings Cork Opera House Cork Film Festival Wretched Little Brat Welcome to Connaught Explore Connaught
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Connaught Pubs Connaught Restaurants Patrick Donald Photography Welcome To Ulster Belfast Beer & Cider Festival Ulster Pubs Ulster Restaurants Explore Ulster Great Irish Writers - Brian Friel / Letterkenny
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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Mark O’Brien Design & Art Direction Oonagh Dowling Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas (nichola@ellenmediacom.ie) Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Aran Sheehan (aran@travelirelandmagazine.ie, 085 711 0826) Contributors: Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael Mc Laughlin. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. And to Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without
GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making 4
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Hill of Tara them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the
Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor
Kilkenny Castle bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum . Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
Explore Leinster
The James Joyce Museum In 1904, James Joyce stayed in the Martello Tower in Sandycove as a guest of Oliver St. John Gogarty. Although his stay was short, the Martello Tower became the setting for the opening of Joyce’s masterpiece Ulysses. The Martello Tower is now the home of the James Joyce Museum, dedicated to the life and work of one of Ireland’s greatest writers. Open all year round with free admission, the James Joyce Museum has many first editions of Joyce’s work on display. Visitors can also view pictures inspired by Joyce and his work, photographs of the author, his family and his friends, and one of two plaster death masks made by the sculptor Paul Speck. The James Joyce Museum is a must visit for lovers of literature. www.joycetower.ie
Glendalough
The Chester Beatty Library The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984
The Guinness Storehouse
Croke Park
This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. Tel: 0404 45325/45352. 6
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Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. Tours are e16.50, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding. Tel: 01 408 4800.
Croke Park is the home of Ireland’s national games; Gaelic football and hurling. A tour of the stadium is a tour through Ireland’s rich history. The state of the art visitors experience offers a chance to visit team dressing rooms, go pitchside and take a seat in the VIP area. The museum tells the story of Gaelic games from ancient times to the present day and offers visitors the chance to try out their own football and hurling skills. If you’re feeling brave and have a head for heights, then why not take the incredible Skyline Tour? Visitors ascend a 44 metre walkway to take in panoramic views of the city from the top of the stadium and allows visitors to find out about key Dublin landmarks from five viewing platforms along the stadium. www.crokepark.ie www.skylinecrokepark.ie
Dublin
Paris
24 Duke street, Dublin 2 (next door to nespresso) tax free shopping Tel: 01 672 9002 | email: feraud.dublin@gmail.com | www.ferauddublin.com maDe in euroP e
ExclusivE IrIsh ownEd mEnswEar bouTIquE we offer a wide selection of exclusive italian style shirts, Donegal tweed style jackets, luxurious mens silk ties & scarves, cufflinks & socks. A one stop shop, catering for the stylish gentleman’s every need. 14 Duke Street, Dublin 2 (opposite The Duke Pub) Tel: 01 633 7957 Email: office@pursuitdublin.com /pursuityourself www.pursuitdublin.com
TAx frEE shoppIng NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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THE
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF IRELAND
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f you’re visiting Ireland to find out more about the history of the country then your first port of call should be the National Museum of Ireland. With three locations in Dublin and one in Mayo, covering Archaeology, Decorative Arts and History, Country Life and Natural History, all housed in beautiful historical buildings, the National Museum should be on everybody’s travel itinerary, especially considering the fact that admission to all of the museums is absolutely free. The National Museum of Ireland was founded under the Dublin Science and Art Museum Act of 1877. Previously, the Museum’s collections had been divided between Leinster House and the Natural
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History Museum in Merrion Street. Under the Act, the government purchased the museum buildings and collections. To provide storage and display space for the Leinster House collections, the government implemented plans to construct a new, custom-built museum on Kildare Street and on 29 August 1890, the new museum opened its doors to the public. This building is now the National Museum of Ireland - Archaeology. The Archaeology museum host a range of permanent exhibitions that cover Ireland’s history as well as world history. The Treasury Exhibition shows the treasures of early medieval Ireland while Ór - Ireland’s Gold features the National Museum of Ireland’s collection
of prehistoric goldwork, some of which dates back as far as 2200 BC. Viking Ireland, Prehistoric Ireland and Medieval Ireland are all covered in great detail in separate exhibitions. There are also exhibitions on Ancient Egypt, Life and Death in the Roman World and Ceramics and Glass from Ancient Cyprus. Just a short walk away is the National Museum of Ireland - Natural History on Merrion Street. The building is a ‘cabinetstyle’ museum designed to showcase a wide-ranging and comprehensive zoological collection. Visitors can investigate Irish Mammals, a series of popular exhibits of ‘family groups’ of badgers, otters and pine martens, as well as exhibitions on bird life and predators. There is also an Insect Life exhibition. Ireland has about 12000 different species of insect and one of the key roles of the Museum is to help scientists identify these insects. The first floor of the museum plays host to Mammals of the World, which includes monkeys, apes and lemurs. Just a short journey away is the National Museum of Ireland - Decorative Arts and History, which can be found at Collins Barracks. In December 1988, Collins Barracks closed as a military installation, and following a period of consultation, plans were made in September 1993 to develop the site as an extra venue for the National Museum of Ireland. This decision allowed for the display of collections that
had been in storage since 1922. Exhibitions include one of the largest collections of Irish silver in the world and Curator’s Choice, an exhibition comprising of 25 objects chosen by the Museum’s own curators in the Art & Industrial division. Special attention is given to the Fonthill Vase, which is the the earliest documented piece of Chinese porcelain in Europe. The museum also has an exciting new exhibition coming in February 2016 Proclaiming A Republic: The 1916 Rising. This exciting new exhibition will explore the dramatic events of Easter Week, the impact it had on the city and its citizens, and the Irish nation as a whole. These themes will be explored, in both Irish and international contexts, through the stories
of civilians, rebels, and the leaders of the Rising. The Easter Week Collection of the National Museum holds over 15000 objects, including many iconic objects such as the 1916 Proclamation and the flag of the Irish Republic, making it an essential place to visit in the lead up to the 1916 commemorations. If you’re visiting the West of the country, then a stop at the National Museum of Ireland - Country Life must be made. Set in the spectacular grounds of Turlough Park, Co. Mayo, the museum first opened its doors in 2001 and is the home of the Irish Folklife Collection of the National Museum of Ireland. The complex also includes exhibition galleries, storage facilities for the reserve collection, education rooms,
and a conservation laboratory. Exhibitions cover all aspects of country life in Ireland, including Trades and Crafts, Working on the Land and Water and Cycling the Country. All four locations are places where you can get lost in Ireland’s history for hours on end and there’s so much to take in that just one visit isn’t enough. The National Museums of Ireland are places that you will return to again and again to get lost in Ireland’s rich heritage. www.museum.ie Photos clockwise from top: External pic of Decorative Arts and History Museum; External Pic of Country Life Museum; External pic of Archaeology Museum; Natural History Museum. All photos courtesy of the NMI.
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Theatre The Abbey
The Forgotten/L’Oublié(e)
The Forgotten is a thrilling contemporary circus performance, plunging theatre goers into a dreamlike world of flight and fantasy to tell a tale of yearning and discovery. A woman searches for the man she loves, wandering through the ruins of his memory, encountering moments of joy, secret dreams and haunting apparitions. 10 - 14 November Tel: 01 887 2200 Also in The Abbey this month; STRUT at the Peacock which includes Ibrahim Electric (18 November), Blue Eyed Hawk (19 November), 3G featuring Gerhard Ornig (19 November) and The Necks (21 November).
The Gate
The Gigli Concert
JPW King is a ‘Dynamatologist’ who is caught between the demands of his mistress Mona, the unattainable love of his life Helen, and an unquenchable thirst for vodka. King is trying to just work out how to get through each day, until a mysterious Irishman walks into his office wanting to sing like the great Italian tenor Beniamino Gigli. 4 - 21 November Tel: 01 874 4045 / 01 874 6042
The Olympia
Keith Barry Out of Control
Internationally acclaimed mentalist Keith Barry returns to the Olympia with his new show, Out of Control. The first half of the show involves Keith performing mentalism while the second half focuses on Keith hypnotising members of the audience. Prepare to be amazed. 13, 14, 21 November & 4 December Tel: 01 679 3323 www.olympia.ie
Orchestra (3 November), South Pacific (10 - 14 November), The Puccini Scandal (21 November) and Pigalle - The Life and Music of Edith Piaf.
Also in the Gaiety this month Puttin’ On The Ritz (2 - 7 November), Ballet Ireland’s Coppélia (18 - 21 November) and Little Red Riding Hood (29 November - 10 January).
Tel: 01 417 0000 Or go to www.nch.ie
Theatre Royal, Waterford
Bord Gais Energy Theatre The Tchaikovsky Perm State Ballet
The beautiful and talented Prima Ballerina Natalia Domracheva returns to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this November, performing in Romeo & Juliet and Swan Lake with the Tchaikovsky Perm State Ballet, accompanied by the magnificent RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra. Having received standing ovations on their last visit, these performances are not to be missed. 18 - 19 November (Romeo & Juliet) 20 - 22 November (Swan Lake) Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this month; Matthew Bourne’s Sleeping Beauty (10 - 14 November), RTE Concert Orchestra presents Back to the Future (15 November), Lord of the Flies (24 - 28 November).
Mermaid Arts Centre Yarn Storytelling Festival
The Irish have long been known for their storytelling. Yarn brings the community of Bray and beyond together to share stories in school rooms, hotels, beside the fire, on cliff walks and in Mermaid Arts Centre itself, with stories told through yoga, dance, in song and in Irish. (see page 24 for more details) 14 - 22 November Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie
The Gaiety
The Matchmaker
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Also at the Theatre Royal this month; Phil Coulter (6 November), The Great Irish Songbook (11 November), O Emperor (15 November), The Unlucky Cabin Boy (16 November), Menopause The Musical (17 - 24 November), Joan Armatrading (25 November), Delorentos (26 November), Abba Forever (28 November) and The Matchmaker (29 November).
The Boys
The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland.
John B Keane’s The Matchmaker tells the story of the efforts of Dicky Mick Dicky O’Connor to make matches for the lonely and the lovelorn. Starring John Kenny and Mary McEvoy (see page 16 for more details).
Highlights this November include Musical Adventures with the RTE National Symphony
9 - 14 November Tel: 0818 719 388
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Tel: 051 874 402 www.theatreroyal.ie
Smock Alley Theatre
Also in the Olympia this month Alabama Shakes (3 November), Frances Black & Kieran Goss (7 November), Will Young (8 November), Eagles of Death Metal (10 November), Texas (11 November), Paul Weller (17 November), Clutch (20 November), Of Monsters And Men (22 November) and Kevin Bridges (23 November).
National Concert Hall
The Theatre Royal is the premiere venue in the South East of Ireland. Highlights this month include; Tommy Fleming in Paddy, a brand new original drama written by Fleming with Gerry Carney and Tommy Marren (8 November), How To Keep An Alien, Sonya Kelly’s hilarious tale about falling in love and proving it to the government (9 November) and Separated At Birth, a fresh alternative to the traditional stand-up gig with PJ Gallagher joined by Joanne McNally for a show that is being heralded as comedy gold (7 November).
Set in Drumcondra and adapted from the novel of the same name, The Boys is the story of a group of teenage boys coming to terms with the world in the summer of 1968. Their main preoccupation in life is women and The Boys are ready for the world but before the holidays are over life will have completely changed and nothing will be the same again. 16 - 28 November Tel: 01 677 0014 www.smockalley.com Also in Smock Alley this month Tingo (2 - 6 November), Gulliver (8 - 10 November), Dublin Book Festival (12 - 15 November) and Clown Theatre (9 - 11 November).
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Explore Leinster
The War Memorial Gardens
Avondale House and Forest Park
The Old Jameson Distillery Experience the Old Jameson Distillery whiskey tour and let expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson Irish Whiskey. At the end of the tour, all visitors are rewarded with a complimentary dram of whiskey at the Jameson Bar and partake in a comparison whiskey tasting session where you will learn how to tell the differences between Scotch, Irish, and American whiskey. The tour finishes at the exclusive gift store where people may choose to buy a personalised bottle or a memento of their visit. Dublin is a city famous for its whiskey and a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery is essential for any person looking to explore, sightsee or even just enjoy themselves and have a drink. Open Daily from 9am-6pm Tel: 01 8072348/ 2316
Cultural and Historical Walking Tours The streets of Dublin have been home to the Vikings, Normans, Elizabethans, Georgians and Victorians. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer. At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. From “How To Read A Painting:symbols and meaning at the National Gallery” to Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own tour. See www.dublindecoded.com 12
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When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816
The National Museum of Ireland
The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours. Tel 01 677 7444
Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (18461891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www.coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park. Tel: 0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com
Gallery Zozimus
Gallery Zozimus, art gallery, in the centre of Dublin’s Arts and Antiques Quarter of Francis Street, is ideally situated in the centre of a triangle that comprises Christchurch, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Visitor Centre at the Guinness Hop Store. They hold a collection of Paintings, Sculptures in Bronze, Ceramic, Glass and Wood, Photography and more recently have exhibited Street or Urban art.Their’s is the largest Ceramic Gallery in Dublin exhibiting over 75 artists work Their aim is to ensure that you have an exciting array of artworks to choose from so they have created this very special place where you can view a mix of contemporary and traditional works. Gallery Zozimus represents over 120 artists, some well established and some just starting out. Opening hours: Mon - Sat 10.00 – 5.30 Sunday by appointment. Tel: 353 1 453 9057. Email: info@galleryzozimus.ie www.galleryzozimus.ie Gallery Zozimus, 56 Francis St, Dublin 8
Bringing
authentic greek cuisine to the heart of DuBlin
treat yourself to the delights of traditional greek food with dishes such as souvlaki, kleftiko and Moussaka. all freshly prepared and expertly cooked. compliment our delicious food with one of our carefully chosen wines and finish by indulging yourself with our selection of rich homemade desserts.
Now taking Christmas bookings please enquire about our special Christmas Party Menu
Open 12:30pm - 11:00pm Monday - Sunday To make a reservation please call (01) 675 0050 or visit www.corfugreekrestaurant.ie
Corfu Restaurant, 12 Parliament Street, Dublin 2
DUBLIN Burlesque festival
N
ow in its fifth year, the Dublin Burlesque Festival promises a magical mix of theatre, fashion, dance, music, photography and circus when it cascades down upon the city from 19 - 22 November. The first festival of its kind in Ireland, Dublin Burlesque has grown every year since it started in 2011 and now attracts up to 1000 people with its high standard of burlesque entertainment in elegant settings. The festival launches on Thursday 19 November with a Speakeasy event at House Dublin on Leeson Street. A live band and VIP star burlesque performances will be the main attractions. House occupies two Georgian townhouses, making it the perfect, glamorous setting to enjoy some top quality burlesque entertainment. It’s on to the Sugar Club on Friday 20 November for the Alternative Burlesque Show and this is followed on Saturday 21 November by the classic Burlesque and Cabaret Show in the same venue. Acts from all over the globe will perform in the Burlesque and Cabaret Show, including international star Miss Polly Rae. The weekend is rounded off by a return to the luscious surroundings of House Dublin on Sunday 22 November for Afternoon Tea. Festival goers can kick back and listen to the sultry sounds of cabaret singer Truly Divine and her band and there will also be a spectacular vintage fashion show to enjoy. With top notch entertainment in beautiful surroundings, the Dublin Burlesque Festival is now firmly established on the city’s cultural calendar. Prepare to be astounded by a show like no other. www.dublinburlesquefestival.ie Photos from top: Polly Rae Between The Sheets; Mz Epiphany Demeanour photo courtesy of Ross Waldron (Rosco Photography). 14
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Basic Instincts CELEBRATING OUR 25TH YEAR IN BUSINESS
Basic Instincts
DUBLIN’S FAMOUS MASK & FETISH STORE
OPEN 7 DAYS FOR ALL YOUR NEEDS Basic Instincts | 8 Eustace Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 | Tel: 01 633 4400 | Email: info@basicinstincts.ie
www.basicinstincts.ie NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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THE MATCHMAKER
T
wo of Ireland’s best loved actors bring one of Ireland’s best loved writers to the Gaiety Theatre this November. Jon Kenny and Mary McEvoy star in John B Keane’s The Matchmaker, which runs for six nights from 9 November. The play is based on Keane’s novella ‘Letters of a County Matchmaker’ and tells the story of the efforts of Dicky Mick Dicky O’Connor to make matches for the lonely and the lovelorn. The Matchmaker is an exploration of rural loneliness based on Keane’s observations of the world around him, having spent most of his life in Listowel in County Kerry. Keane also ran a pub for many years in Listowel so is sure to have picked up many stories during the course of his work and would have been aware of the generations of people who sought companionship later in life, perhaps having to first look after elderly parents or wait for an inheritance. Using his inimitable way with words and sense of devilment and wit, Keane delves into the longings, hungers, fears and foibles of this collection of lonely country people and creates a marvelously colorful world, taking us back to a simpler time, when phones were few and far between and the only web was one left behind by spiders. This myriad of characters are played by two very accomplished actors. Mary McEvoy is a household name in Ireland thanks to her long-running role of Biddy in the Irish soap Glenroe. She has also enjoyed an extensive stage career, which includes appearances in Sive and Dancing At Lughnasa. 16
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Jon Kenny is a comic actor perhaps best known in Ireland as one half of the comic duo d’Unbelievables with Pat Shortt. He has since become a successful solo performer and is perhaps best known to international audiences for his hilarious turn as Fred Rickwood in the classic Fr. Ted episode ‘A Song For Europe’. The Matchmaker has already received glowing reviews internationally from illustrious titles such as The Guardian and The New York Times and now it’s back in Dublin. Make sure you don’t miss out on this fantastic production. www.gaietytheatre.ie
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Celtic Lodge Guesthouse
In the Heart of Dublin City Centre
Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.
81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie
Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.
www.thecelt.ie
The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1
Recommended Pubs in Leinster The Porterhouse
The Gravediggers
There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.
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The Celt
“John Kavanagh The Gravediggers, established in 1833 and still run by the Kavanagh Family today. One of Dublin’s finest bars and best pint of Plain. No music no TV, but fine pints and fine food served. Beside the old cemetery gate hence our local name The Gravediggers�
Johnnie Fox’s
1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9. Tel: 01 8307978 Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie
Grogan’s
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 18
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
Dice Bar
Situated on the corner of Benburb Street and Queen Street, near Smithfield Square, at Dice Bar they strive for three things – great drinks, great staff and great music. The welcoming staff offer a range of premium Irish whiskeys and if whiskey isn’t your thing then you have another great option. Dice Bar brew their own beers; the delicious Revolution Red and Augustine With so much choice and a relaxed setting, Dice Bar warrants many return visits. Open from 3pm daily.
Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster.
93-94 Benburb Street Tel: 01 633 3936 www.thatsitdublin.com
Glencullen, Co Dublin Tel: 01 295 5647
Recommended Pubs in Leinster 57 The Headline
Sin É
JJ Smyth’s
Sin É
Situated only a short walk from St Patrick’s Cathedral and Teeling Whiskey Distillery, 57 The Headline is the ideal spot to sample the best of Irish Craft Beers and Whiskeys. With 24 taps dedicated to the best of Irish and International beers, you won’t be stuck for choice. They offer Beer tasting trays from 3 to 9 choices and 5 Whiskey trays. They also serve the best bar food in Dublin 8 and you won’t be paying city centre prices. Visit their website for all products, opening times and more.
Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is definitely the place to be.
Clanbrassil St. Lower, Dublin 8 Tel: 01 5320279 www.57theheadline.ie
14 -15 Ormond Quay Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037
With live music six nights a week, JJ Smyth’s is the home of jazz and blues in Dublin. The family run pub is steeped in history and the welcoming atmosphere keeps the loyal regulars coming back for the finest service and some of the best music that Dublin has to offer. JJ’s started out as a family owned grocery store and public house in the 1730’s and is one of the city’s oldest continuous licensed premises. It was also the birthplace of the famous Irish lyrical poet Thomas Moore, who was born there in 1779. If you love jazz and blues, then you’ll love JJ Smyth’s.
The Liquor Rooms
Doheny & Nesbitt’s
12 Aungier St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 475 2565
Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.
One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier.
7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 Tel: 087 339 3688
5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 2945
The Dingle Whiskey Bar
The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. The bar is full of culture and although it is a whiskey bar, it offers a range of drinks and cocktails made using their own Dingle Gin. The Dingle Whiskey Bar is simply a must do! 44 Nassau St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4180
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Restaurant FortyOne
Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years. This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin. 41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie
Frite Haus
Frite Haus offer a unique artisan fast food experience with care and attention given to every aspect of the menu. A relaxed Belgian style ‘Chip Shop’ restaurant, Frite Haus serve authentic Belgian fries with a range of craft sauces and delicious Jane Russell sausages. Jane Russell sausages use only prime fresh cuts of Irish pork, free from preservatives so you know that you are getting the finest, freshest meat. They also serve a fantastic range of craft beers, including delicious Belgian Trappist Brewery beers. Frite Haus is the only choice for a fine dining experience at very reasonable prices. 87 Camden Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 4758948 www.frite-haus.com
Taste at Rustic
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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
An exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin city, influenced by Japanese, Spanish and South American cooking. Dylan McGrath has created a stunning menu that includes sushi, meat cooked in a Japanese style Robata grill and Steaming Pots of Rich Flavour Stock. This stock is cooked in a Japanese Nabemono style where the ingredients are cooked together in a steaming broth, known as a dashi.
Corfu Greek Restaurant
17 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 7079596 info@tasteatrustic.com www.tasteatrustic.com
Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list.
Odessa Restaurant
12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050
Le Bon Crubeen The intimate and warm Odessa Restaurant is perfect for birthdays, weddings or an evening dinner. Diners can enjoy the great value Early Bird menu all night on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Choose from a range of great dishes, including Grilled Goat’s Cheese Bruschetta, Pea & Mint Risotto and CharGrilled Swordfish. Their famous Brunch Menu is served on Saturdays and Sundays from 11am to 3.30pm and includes such delights as Eggs Benedict, Baked Ham with Poached Eggs and the traditional Irish Breakfast. 13 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6703080 www.odessa.ie
This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.
Suesey Street
81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 1026 www.leboncrubeen.ie
Camden Kitchen
Suesey Street is Dublin’s new social destination, promising good times in the bar, great food from the kitchen and a relaxed vibe on the outdoor terrace. Located on the corner of Fitzwilliam Place, it is a welcoming space full of atmosphere and comfort, offering an informal approach to drinking and dining. The food is classed as modern Irish, changes with the season and is very creative - the flavours are awake and the customer is in for a real gourmet experience.
A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.
26 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 669 4600 www.sueseystreet.ie
3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 4760125 www.camdenkitchen.ie
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster ASADOR
‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.
Zaragoza
Mexico to Rome
The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines.
Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.
Open Mon-Sun 12noon - Midnight (last orders) 18 William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 679 4020 www.zaragozadublin.com
The Larder Restaurant & Brewhouse
23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com
Fade Street Social
ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie
Peploe’s
An oasis of quality, The Larder offer excellent Brunch, Lunch and Evening menus made from the highest quality, locally sourced ingredients. These dishes are finished off with herbs grown in their own walled garden and complimented by their range of own brand beers. The meal can then be topped off with their own brand coffee; Dublin Roaster. 8 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6333581 info@thelarder.ie www.thelarder.ie
Kafka Restaurant
It’s not hard to see why Fade Street Social was voted Best Restaurant in Dublin 2015 by Trip Advisor. The restaurant serves high quality dishes using only the finest Irish produce. The innovative, seasonal tapas served in the Gastro Bar are perfect for casual evenings. Diners can then round their night off by enjoying a cocktail in the Cocktail/Winter Garden, which is also available for private hire. 4 Fade Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 6040066 info@fadestreetsocial.com www.fadestreetsocial.com
Café Topolis
Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value.
Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com
236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 Tel: 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Zaytoon
Taco Taco
The Rustic Stone
Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.
Perfect for brunch or a casual evening meal, Taco Taco is sure to get your taste buds tingling. They have a range of specials on offer, such as Chargrilled Jerk Chicken for two with a range of sides for €29.95 on Sunday nights and Super Nacho Happy Hour from 5pm to 6.30pm from Monday to Sunday. While you’re there, make sure you sample some of their amazing cocktails, such as Whiskey Smash, Brunch Sour or Mojito.
The ethos of the Rustic Stone is simple; provide healthy yet affordable meals using only the freshest ingredients to create food that is as tasty as it is nutritious. Meat and fish dishes are served on a hot, volcanic stone, allowing diners to cook the meat exactly to their liking. This is complimented by the delicious range of sugar free deserts and cocktails.
14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie
Thornton’s Restaurant
This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them. Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. Tel: 01 478 7008
Brasserie Sixty6
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14 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 083 449 9584 www.tacotacodublin.com
La Ruelle Wine Bar
Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie
Marcel’s Restaurant
One of Dublin’s favourite city centre restaurants, serving lunch, dinner and one of the best brunches in town. Their menu features some hearty, home style favourites using fresh Irish produce. To pair with the food they have a tempting cocktail list of hand-crafted signature drinks and cocktails and over 100 wines from around the globe.
Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City.
66 - 67 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 4005878 info@brasseriesixty6.com www.brasseriesixty6.com
13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6602367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
South George’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 7079596 info@rusticstone.ie www.rusticstone.ie
Salamanca
Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie
Mykonos Taverna
Authentic Greek food in the heart of Dublin. Mykonos Taverna offers traditional Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Kleftiko and Souvlaki at incredibly good prices. The staff are friendly and attentive and always on hand to cater to your every need, all you have to do is relax and enjoy your food! 76 Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 561 3745
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Recommended Shopping The Design House
“The Design House” is a boutique & design Hub, in the city centre. It is based in a fabulous Georgian building; they offer cutting edge fashion, jewellery, bridal and a variety of crafts all in the one building. The hallways of their building also host an artist’s gallery. The list of designers who call “The Design house” home has grown steadily since they opened. They are also the creative home to several in-house designers, that work from 2 floors of shared studio space and professional fashion workrooms . The concept behind their enterprise is to bring designers, craftspeople and artists together under one roof and to offer the customer a wide array of high quality products, all at varied price points and services such as their bespoke service and café. 43 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6799283 www.thedesignhouse.ie
Siopaella
MAKESHOP
A collaborative workshop space where visitors can learn everything from DIY robotics to how to build your own radio. Created by Science Gallery at Trinity College Dublin, the aim of MAKESHOP is to provide people with the tools, materials and guidance they need to make stuff ! 4 South Leinster Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 4416 www.dublin.sciencegallery.com/makeshop
McGuirks Golf
McGuirks Golf are Ireland’s Leading supplier of golf equipment. They are the Official Stockists of major brands such as Under Armour, Cutter & Buck, Adams, Ping, Callaway, TaylorMade, Adidas and Nike Golf and have have dedicated PGA Professionals available for advice on a daily basis in all of their stores, with shops nationwide and a well positioned city centre location in Hibernian Way, just off Dawson Street. Tel: 01 8227272 www.mcguirksgolf.com
New Moon Siopaella is Ireland’s original consignment store in the heart of Dublin’s Temple Bar offering pre-loved designer handbags, shoes and clothes for an unrivalled shopping experience. A veritable treasure trove of luxury and vintage finds from all over the world, Siopaella is the premium shopping destination for bargain hunters and designer lovers alike, making it Ireland’s best kept sartorial secret. Three locations: 8a Crow Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 8 Cecilia Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 25a Temple Lane South, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 9106 / 01 555 0119 www.siopaella.com 24
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
New Moon is a one of a kind jewellery store, fusing the sobriety and simplicity of their own designs with the skills and traditions of Eastern silver and goldsmiths. This allows them to offer a wide range of unique, one-off pieces, handmade in sterling silver or gold at very reasonable prices. George’s Street Arcade, 28 Drury Street, D2 Tel: 01 6711154 www.newmoon.ie
The Sweater Shop
The Sweater Shop is a family run business offering superb, quality knitwear at reasonable prices. They also offer a range of caps, scarves and accessories, making any of their Dublin, Galway or Kilkenny stores the perfect place to pick up the perfect Irish souvenir. 30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 Abbeygate Street, Galway High Street, Kilkenny Tel: 01 6712292 www.sweatershop.com
Kilkenny Design Centre
Kilkenny Design Centre is situated in the heart of Ireland’s Craft capital, Kilkenny City. Once the Castle Stables dating back to 1760’s, Kilkenny Design is now home to three restaurants and a Shop stocking the very best of Irish products including Nicholas Mosse, Max Benjamin, Hairy Fruit Art, Áine Knitwear and Orla Kiely. Castle Yard, Kilkenny Tel: +353 56 7722118 www.KilkennyDesign.com
Féraud Dublin
The Féraud store carries the widest selection of Féraud suiting in Ireland. Louis Féraud is a French designer label that is influenced by the famous creations of French couture. They also stock a leading collection of casual brands, including Duchamp London, McGregor and Profuomo shirts and ties and offer tax free shopping to non-EU residents. 24 Duke Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 6729002 feraud.dublin@gmail.com www.ferauddublin.com
Recommended Shopping Tights Department
shoes, equipment and sports watches complete with sports Cafe. The staff are very experienced runners, completing marathons all over the world, and welcome visitors to join their Free evening run group. Free WiFi, Tax Free and specialty souvenir running clothing available.
Designer Exchange
3-4 Essex Street West, Temple Bar, Dublin 8 Tel: +353 (01) 5989 777 www.runlogic.ie
Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.
Sunglasses.ie
53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6128080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd
25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. +353 (0)85 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightdept.com (deliver worldwide)
Pursuit Dublin
Pursuit Dublin is an exclusive menswear boutique that is independently Irish owned and run. They offer a wide selection of exclusive Italian style shirts and jackets. They stock exclusive designer shirt brands such as Marnelli, Profuomo, Claudio Lugli and A Fish Named Fred. Pursuit Dublin also offer a wide range of men’s accessories, including ties, cufflinks and socks.
Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands and Tax Free shopping to non EU residents.
Cows Lane Designer Studio Sunglasses.ie is your one stop shop for everything from Designer Sunglasses to Prescription Eye-Wear. They are the only 100% Irish owned Sunglasses store and recently celebrated their 6th Birthday. Based in the heart of Dublin’s fair city where their experienced team are on hand to help you choose that perfect pair. Log on to their website or call in store for a personalized experience. 23A Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8602 www.sunglasses.ie
Patrick Donald Photo Gallery
Cows Lane Designer Studio is a colourful, fun retail space run by a group of independent designers and makers. With an eclectic mix of handcrafted, Irish designs including textiles, knitwear, jewellery, millinery, ceramics, prints, homewares and more, there is something for everyone. The perfect place to browse and be inspired! Unit 2, Essex Street West, Old City, Temple Bar, Dublin 8. Tel: 01 679 8366 Info@clds.ie www.cowslanedesignerstudio.ie
Celtic Whiskey Shop
14 Duke Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6337957 office@pursuitdublin.com www.pursuitdublin.com
Run Logic
Run Logic is Ireland’s Award winning running store located in the heart of Temple Bar. The store has an exciting range of the latest running
Situated at the heart of Dublin on Dawson Street, this is a ‘must visit’ if you want to get a quality souvenir of your time in Ireland! Patrick is well known for his black & white Irish landscape and Dublin Street photography. Gift sizes images are reasonably priced at €35. He will even ship them for you anywhere in the world free of charge!
Ireland’s premier whiskey shop has become a mecca for whiskey lovers since it first opened in 2003. They have daily whiskey tastings and the knowledgeable and experienced staff are always on hand to offer their expert advice and guidance. If you’re travelling, the staff are happy to wrap your purchases in protective wrapping and can arrange shipping to national and international destinations.
8/9 Royal Hibernian Way Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 681 5225
27 - 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 / 01 6759768 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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YARN STORYTELLING FESTIVAL
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resented by the Mermaid Arts Centre,Yarn Storytelling Festival brings together the community of Bray and beyond to hear stories in schools, hotels, beside the fire, in the woods and in Mermaid Arts Centre itself from 14 to 22 November. The Irish have long been considered to have the gift of the gab and our talent in the art of storytelling goes back centuries, to a time before the written word when stories were passed down orally, allowing the story to be recreated not just by the storyteller but also by the listener. This tradition will be celebrated in County Wicklow this November with a range of exciting events that celebrate storytelling and the history of Bray. Industrial Yarns - The Story of Bray’s Factories by Bray storyteller Philip Byrne tells the story of Bray’s industrial past. While many view Bray as a seaside Victorian town, Bray was also an industrial town for many of the town’s residents. Industrial Yarns tells the story of these factories and the people who worked in them. The exhibition concentrates on the oral history of these factories as told by the people themselves. Hear about the ghost of Corke Abbey, the savings clubs, the working conditions and above all the craic that people had while working, often in very difficult conditions, in the 50s, 60s and 70s. Canadian performer Anne Glover presents A World of Story and String. Suitable for all ages, Anne uses a simple loop of string to intertwine stories with string figures from around the globe. You’ve never heard a story told like this, and your shoelaces will never look the same again. The much loved actor and storyteller Éamon Kelly will be celebrated in Éamon Kelly - Remembering The Legacy. Nuala Hayes, Pat Speight, Jack Lynch and harper Anne-Marie O’Farrell will all appear in the Mermaid Arts Centre on Saturday 14 November for this spectacular multimedia event. Archaeologist and historian Christiaan Corlett brings us Stories From The Grave. Wicklow’s graves are full of ancient memorials that have often been used as a source of information for genealogists. However what is usually overlooked is the fact that reading between the lines on these old headstones are stories of the ordinary people’s lives in Wicklow during the 18th and 19th centuries and these are the stories that Christiaan hopes to highlight. On both Saturdays of the festival (14 and 21 November) Philip Byrne will lead visitors on an enchanted walk through the beautiful grounds of Killruddery House for the Killruddery Storywalk. Hear stories that are a mix of magic, mystery and mayhem at this outdoor event that is suitable for all ages from 8 to 80. There will also be Family Fun Days, Yoga Storytelling, Open Mic Nights and a whole lot more at the magical Yarn Storytelling Festival - a wonderful way to celebrate Ireland’s ancient storytelling tradition. www.mermaidartscentre.ie Photos from top: Mermaid Gallery Industrial Yarns; Stories from the Grave; Mermaid Gallery Industrial Yarns; Killruddery Storywalk with Philip Byrne.
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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Fota Wildlife Park
Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.
Limerick County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.
One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie
and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’
Blarney Castle NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Explore Munster
Cliffs of Moher
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Blarney Castle
The Hunt Museum
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.
Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry (Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.
Bunratty Castle
Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.
Titanic Experience Cobh
Jameson Experience Cork
Tel: 021 438 5252
The Burren
The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 28
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.
Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.
Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney River in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience.
www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie
www.bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com
&
Independent Bottler of the year
2014
Christmas Ireland’s
Festival
Ireland’s Whiskey Experts! 27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2. Ph: +353 (0) 1 675 9744 INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen or www.celticwhiskeyshop.com
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Over 30 Events to Enjoy Every Weekend
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Recommended Pubs in Munster Jack Meades (under the bridge) Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day. Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950
The Bierhaus
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.
An Brog
An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week. 72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork Tel: 021 427 0074
Buckley’s Bar
The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration. The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. Tel: 064 663 1037
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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
Dick Mack’s
Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960
Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)
Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Strand Inn
Tel: 051 878203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com/munsterroom-restaurant
Out of the Blue
Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com
The Ventry Skipper
This little gem is just what the weary traveller needs after a day of sight seeing-with amazing views accompanied by great seafood and an extensive wine list you really cant go wrong. Ventry, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 9853
The Munster Room Restaurant
They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.
Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle.
Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811
Dykgate St., Dingle. Tel: 086 660 3778
Rossini
The Smugglers Inn
Antonio Toscano opened this Italian restaurant in the heart of Cork City in 1994, and has always gone out of his way to staff it with his fellow country men and women, from both the North and the South of Italy. And it’s this, together with their extensive menu that makes eating here as close to actually dining in Italy as you could hope to find.
The Smugglers Inn is a family run restaurant that is ideal for casual lunch, fine dining or that special occasion. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers from all over the world and is a Bord Failte award winner. It’s not hard to see why. The Smugglers Inn pride itself on serving fresh local produce, from seafood to organic vegetables. Add in the spectacular views and friendly service and you have the perfect dining experience.
La Bohéme Restaurant & Wine Bar
Waterford Castle, The Island, Co. Waterford
2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875 645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie
An Canteen
33-4 Princess St, Cork City Tel: 021 427 5818
The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort was awarded 2AA Rosettes in 2001 and currently continues this elite standard further confirmed with multiple awards and its review in the 2015 Michelin Guide. With its warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls, ornate ceiling, and further complemented by an extensive wine cellar and exciting seasonal menus it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Using the finest local produce, gifted head chef Michael Thomas and his culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience.
fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Tues - Sat 5:30pm until late (Open bank holiday Sundays)
La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of
Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330 www.thesmugglersinn.ie
The Lobster
Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629 NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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November Festival Listings Kilkenomics Economics Festival
Kick Boxing World Championships 2015
SUBTITLE European Film Festival
Improv Fest Ireland
Cork Folk Festival
2015 Galway Science & Technology Festival Exhibition
Bringing together some of the world’s leading economists, financial analysts and media commentators with some of our funniest, sharpest stand-up comedians. 5 - 8 November 2015 www.kilkenomics.com
A unique opportunity to head to Kilkenny and catch some of the most popular European films that rarely show up at the multiplex. 23 - 29 November 2015 www.subtitlefest.com
An annual gathering of some of the finest folk/ traditional musicians from Ireland and abroad (see page 37 for more details) 1 - 4 October 2015 www.corkfolkfestival.com
HearSay International Audio Arts Festival 2015
Bringing together the world’s finest audio makers from radio, art, film and beyond to celebrate and inspire creative audio. 20 - 22 November 2015 www.hearsayfestival.ie
The Killaloe Festival of Light
A multicultural light festival in Clare that draws inspiration from many traditional festivals around the world. 11 November 2015 www.killaloefestivaloflight.com
Dublin Beatles Festival
Having previously attracted over 900 participants from over forty countries to the televised event, the Kick Boxing World Championships 2015 promises to get even bigger. 21 - 29 November 2015 www.wakoweb.com
Introducing you to new and exciting shows, workshops, storytelling sessions and improv jams in Dublin. 15 - 22 November 2015 www.improvfestireland.com
Parents and children get to explore an amazing exhibition hall full of exciting stands with shows and workshops to suit all ages. 22 November 2015 www.galwayscience.ie
Metropolis Festival
An indoor music, conversation and installation extravaganza in Dublin’s RDS. 7 - 8 November 2015 www.metropolisfestival.ie
An explosion of clowns, aerial, fun, laughter, skill and absurdity in Tralee. 12 - 15 November 2015 www.circusfestival.ie
Upperchurch Walking Weekend
Walks suitable for all levels of fitness, from 6km to 20km, including night walks in Upperchurch, Co. Tipperary. 6 - 8 November 2015 www.upperchurch.ie 32
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Premieres, short films, special appearances and more for the 60th anniversary of this fantastic festival (see page 36 for more details). 6 - 15 November 2015 www.corkfilmfest.org
Wretched Little Brat @ Seán O’Casey Theatre
A brand new documentary drama about the lovers of Oscar Wilde, based on historical testimony from the time (see page 38 for more details). 16 - 21 November 2015 www.gaytheatre.ie
Belfast Beer & Cider Festival
Sir Hugh Lane: A Centenary Perspective Exhibition marking the centenary of the untimely death of Cork-born art dealer, collector and gallery director. 17 October 2015 - 10 January 2016 www.nationalgallery.ie
Dublin Burlesque Festival
Beatles gigs, film, theatre, a table quiz, public interviews, art, memorabilia, merchandise and all things Fab Four. 6 - 8 November 2015 www.dublinbeatlesfestival.com
National Circus Festival of Ireland
Cork Film Festival
The Ulster Hall serves up the biggest bar in Ireland with a chance to sample over 100 real ales, ciders and perries (see page 46 for more details). 19 - 21 November 2015 www.belfastbeerfestival.co.uk
Big Shot @ Liberty Hall Theatre A magical mix of theatre, fashion, dance, music, photography and circus comes to Dublin city. (see page 26 for more details). 19 - 22 November 2015 www.dublinburlesquefestival.ie
Yarn Storytelling Festival
The Mermaid Arts Centre, Yarn Storytelling Festival brings together the community of Bray and beyond to hear stories in schools, hotels, beside the fire, in the woods (see page 24 for more details). 14 - 22 November 2015 www.mermaidartscentre.ie
Acclaimed original Irish musical telling the story of a savvy New York defense lawyer who falls for a struggling Irish artist. 5 November 2015 www.libertyhalltheatre.ie
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CORK OPERA HOUSE
A
Cork cultural institution celebrates 160 years in existence. Located in the heart of Cork city, the Cork Opera House has undergone some changes over the years but has always remained a significant cultural outlet throughout its history and continues to attract star names and productions. The original structure of the Opera House was designed by Sir John Benson for the National Exhibition of Ireland in 1852. It was then relocated brick-by-brick from where the current Anglesea Street Garda Station now stands, to Emmet Place, which was known as Nelson Square at the time. The Opera House remains in this location to the present day, although it took a little while to settle on that name. It was first called the Athenaeum, then the Munster Hall before being finally renamed the Cork Opera House in 1877. However tragedy struck in its centenary year when the building was destroyed by fire in December 1955. Following a ten-year fundraising campaign, a modern theatre designed by Scott Tallon Walker opened its doors to the people of Cork once again. Further improvements were made when, in 1993, a new front of house was designed by Murray Ó Laoire Architects. This building work was completed in 2000 and the complex now includes the main auditorium, two bars, corporate boxes, 34
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foyer, café and shop. In 2007, Cork Opera House received grants from the Department of Arts, Sports & Tourism and Cork City Council to carry out two phases of capital works which included health and safety, electrical and air-handling systems improvements and the renovation of the auditorium and front of house as well as improved sightlines and acoustics, ensuring that Cork Opera House remains Southern Ireland’s premier venue for the best of Irish and international comedy, music and drama and dance - not forgetting opera of course! This month alone sees a host of top acts and events gracing the Opera House stage. Ellen Kent brings productions of Puccini’s Tosca and Bizet’s Carmen on 4 and 5 November before the Cork Film Festival comes to the Opera House from
6 - 15 November. The legendary Stylistics will appear on 12 and 13 November, as will Joan Armatrading (26 November) and Russell Watson (27 November), while lovers of ballet can’t afford to miss Cork City Ballet’s interpretation of Swan Lake (18 - 21 November). With a further eclectic lineup of acts including Jimmy Carr, Phil Coulter and Mick Flannery to come in December, Cork Opera House continues to bring a hugely diverse range of acts to the city. Anyone visiting Cork really should visit this beautiful building and take in the cultural delights that are on offer. Here’s to another 160 years. www.corkoperahouse.ie
presents
14 – 22 November 2015 A week of storytelling, fireside sessions, workshops and performances Mermaid Arts Centre, Main Street, Bray www.mermaidartscentre.ie 01 2724030
Winter Term
16 November 2015 – 23 January 2016
French Courses forAdults, Teenagers, Children & Toddlers The French Language & Cultural Centre in Dublin 1 Kildare Street, Dublin 2 / www.alliance-francaise.ie NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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CORK FILM FESTIVAL The Cork Film Festival turns 60 this year and in spite of this diamond anniversary, this year promises to be a festival of firsts. It will be the first time that the RTÉ Concert Orchestra perform the score to Brief Encounter on the Cork Opera House Stage, it will be the first time that the Everyman Theatre, St Luke’s Church, the Pavilion and the Ballymaloe Grainstore host events at the festival and it will give Irish audiences the first chance to see the hotly anticipated Steve Jobs biopic, which stars our own Michael Fassbender in the title role.
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he festival runs from 6 to 15 November and the RTÉ Concert Orchestra’s performance is sure to be a highlight. This must-see live event was developed in collaboration between RTÉ and the Festival’s creative team and marks RTÉ being newly announced Principal Partner. Steve Jobs will premiere on a 36
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giant screen in the Cork Opera House on 8 November. Boasting an all star cast of Michael Fassbender, Kate Winslet, Seth Rogen and Jeff Daniels and directed by the Oscar-winning Danny Boyle, this compelling biopic of the Apple founder and visionary is sure to go down a storm.
This year’s Irish Gala is Strangerland. Starring Kidman, Hugo Weaving and Joseph Fiennes, this Irish-Australian production tells the story of a newly arrived family to an isolated, outback Australian town and the subsequent disappearance of their children, just before a massive sand-storm hits. The film has been lauded for Kidman’s powerhouse performance and features eerie and beautiful cinematography by Kerryman P.J.Dillon. The film was cowritten by Irishman Michael Kinirons and partly funded by the Irish Film Board. British actor Simon Callow will also be in attendance. The renowned star of Four Weddings And A Funeral will give an extended introduction to Orson Welles’
classic F For Fake, marking the 100th anniversary of the film icon’s birth. Simon will also be on hand to sign copies of the third volume of his book on Welles’ life, One Man Band. The festival has a reputation for nurturing home-grown talent and this year will screen over 50 Irish Short Films, almost half of which were made in Cork. For the first time ever, the winners of the Grand Prix Irish presented by RTÉ Cork and, the winner of the Grand Prix International, will automatically progress to the Oscars longlist for consideration. Another one of the special events at the Festival will be a discussion by Cork resident and human rights filmmaker Peadar King at the Gate cinema. This will
be followed by a screening of his prison reform documentary Yo Cambio, about a self-governing prison in El Salvador. On top of all of this there is a documentary to mark the 20th anniversary of Rory Gallagher’s passing, an expanded Family Programme, films from Hugh O’Connor and Gordy Hoffman (brother of the much missed Philip Seymour-Hoffman) and the return of the much anticipated Illuminate (a mental health film and discussion series). This grand old festival is proving that it still has a whole lot to offer. www.corkfilmfest.org Photos clockwise from top left: Strangerland; Carol; Yo Cambio; Steve Jobs; Strangerland.
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WRETCHED LITTLE BRAT
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resented in a special winter programme by the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival, Wretched Little Brat runs in the Seán O’Casey Theatre from 16 to 21 November. This brand new play from Brian Merriman is a documentary drama about the lovers of Oscar Wilde and is based on historical testimony from the time. The play is a frank telling of the aftermath of one of Victorian England’s most scandalous courtroom downfalls and charts the lives of Wilde’s closest associates up to 1945. Seán Doyle stars as Lord Alfred “Bosie” Douglas and David Flynn plays Robbie Ross, with Wilde being played by Brian Graham Higgins. The cast also includes a team of four actors (Ailish Leavy, Anne Doyle, Stephen Gorman and Eli Caldwell) who play ‘The Mothers’, ‘The Wives’, ‘The Older and The Younger Men’ that were all caught up in this web of litigation, acrimony, morality and loyalty. The play aims to challenge the view that the Wilde legend is merely the story of the vengeful Douglas, who George Bernard Shaw once dubbed a ‘wretched little brat’. “In post-referendum Ireland, it is now possible to examine this flawed historical source that shocked a moralistic society and hindered LGBT progress for a century and still does, in law, religion, work and family life,” said Brian Merriman of his new work. “This new full length play challenges our lingering inherited perceptions - that Bosie’s manic control and endless destructive appetites still dominate an entire LGBT culture today.” The play hopes to finally inform an honest exploration today in modern Ireland by exposing the source of our stereotypes and prejudices. “Are Bosie and Wilde’s class ridden excesses still an accurate reference point for society as the ‘atypical gay life’?” asks Merriman. “Or is it just the unique life story of a ‘Wretched Little Brat’?” www.gaytheatre.ie Photos from top: David Flynn; Ailish Leavy; Seán Doyle; Anne Doyle.
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Welcome to Connaught
Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands
The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught,
The Claddagh by night
and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience
Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all. NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Explore Connaught
Kylemore Abbey
Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was reopened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.
Glencar Waterfall
Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Inishbofin Island
Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.
Croagh Patrick
Connemara
Mullaghmore
Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain. 40
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Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. Tel: 098 64114
Recommended Pubs in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad. 17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820
Furey’s Pub
The Quays
Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers. Bridge St, Sligo Tel: 087 958 3080 Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!
Bosh Bar and Restaurant Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.
11 Quay St, Galway Tel: 091 568 347
Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534
Roísín Dubh
Matt Malloy’s
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.
Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540
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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café
An Port Mór Restaurant
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730
The Cottage Restaurant
Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West. Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933
Ashford Castle
Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.” Sea Road, Galway City. Tel: 091 526 003
Eala Bhán
Upstairs @ West Restaurant
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000
Waterfront House Restaurant
Ireland’s largest stockist of Designer Sunglasses If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823
Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.
The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.
Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255
Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120
The Yew Tree Restaurant
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PATRICK DONALD photography
P
atrick Donald introduced his exciting new exhibition on the Wild Atlantic Way at this year’s Photo Ireland Festival. Patrick Donald is currently touring the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’ and collecting some stunning images for his exhibition opened at this year’s Photo Ireland Festival. His work is on view at the Patrick Donald Gallery on Dawson Street. Patrick’s aim is to cover the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’ over a two year period and is planning to produce a book of the best images. He acknowledges how long the route is and how much there is to cover and in order to do it justice he wants to dedicate this time to it. His work in the PhotoIreland Festival this year consisted of 18 very large format pictures in black and white which featured the best of his shots taken on this tour. Work from the exhibition remains on view in the Patrick Donald Gallery. Rachel Gallagher caught up with Patrick mid-tour and had a chat with him about the exhibition.
drama, texture and richness and is uniquely set against the vast expanse of the Atlantic. How does this work compare/contrast with your work in the past and other festival exhibitions? Whether it is street photography of Rajasthan India or landscapes of the West of Ireland my main focus is to make each individual image stand up on its own in a frame - as an aesthetic piece of art I suppose - and in doing this may go some way as to strike a chord around our human existence in a positive and real way. What aspects of the shot are important to you when trying to capture the essence of any landscape? Firstly you need to find the scene that you know will produce a powerful image.
After that it’s about the balance of light and composition to render the emotion in the scene. Getting the emotion in the image right is very important to me. What makes Irish landscape distinct from others and how do you try to capture that in your photography? The light here in Ireland is generally changeable which I think lends itself to creating striking viewpoints of a scene. I experiment with this a lot when preparing a scene. Patrick Donald Imagery can be viewed and purchased in his online gallery on www.patrickdonald.com. Tel: (01) 6815225
Why did you choose Wild Atlantic Way for your theme for this year’s Photo Ireland festival? I am inspired by the landscape and people of Ireland, in particular along the West coast of Ireland. Ireland is surrounded by the Atlantic in a very unique way that exposes the natural beauty of the landscape. The Wild Atlantic way is a wonderfully rugged coastline that is full of NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Welcome to Ulster
Marble Arch Caves The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the
Malin Head Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44
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‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.
the new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Giants Causeway
County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall,
Belfast City Hall
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Belfast BEER & CIDER FESTIVAL
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elfast is the place to be for lovers of beer and cider this month. The Ulster Hall becomes the largest bar in Ireland for the 16th Belfast Beer and Cider Festival, which runs from 19 to 21 November. Organised by the Northern Ireland branch of The Campaign for Real Ale, the festival regularly attracts up to 4000 visitors, who flock to the Ulster Hall to try over 100 beers on offer from microbreweries from across the UK and Ireland. Choice is the name of the game, with the festival keen to showcase local beers and ciders that are not normally available in most pubs and for the first time this year, all of the cider on offer will be sourced from local cider producers. There’s more than beer and cider to enjoy during the festival. Live music from local bands is a tradition at this festival; selected to add atmosphere to an event where friends want to gather, chat and enjoy the craic. The music and pub games 46
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will provide plenty of atmosphere whilst sampling from the huge choice available. The bars, games and stalls are all planned, constructed and staffed by unpaid volunteers, who give up their time to make sure that visitors have the best experience possible. This is in keeping with the ethos of The Campaign for Real Ale, which is a not for profit consumer organisation. An exciting revolution is occurring in
the beer and cider producing industry at the moment, with over 20 microbreweries established in Northern Ireland and nearly 1500 across the UK and Ireland. The Belfast Beer and Cider Festival offers visitors the chance to sample loads of these great products and enjoy three days of fun and games while doing so. www.belfastbeerfestival.co.uk
Recommended Pubs in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon
Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768
White’s Tavern
Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080
Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187
This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058
The Duke Of York
The John Hewitt
One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062
Peadar O’Donnell’s
There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 NOVEMBER 2015 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox
Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
The Ginger Bistro
Coco
1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121
55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421
Deane’s Restaurant
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150
Shu
They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655
Vanilla Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
Telfords Restaurant
Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268
Lough Erne Resort
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000
Sun Kee Restaurant
One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134
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Sakura
In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590
Speranza Restaurant
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
Lusty Beg
This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300
16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2015
Explore Ulster
The Old Bushmills Distillery
Belleek Pottery
Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. Tel: 028 9076 6386
In 1608, King James I granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel: 028 2073 3218
Ulster American Folk Park
Florence Court
Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. You can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918
Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours. Outside, visitors can discover the working estate including a sawmill, forge and carpenters shop, ice house, the historic rose garden and the mother of all Irish Yews. The Stables tearoom and Coach House gift shop are also onsite. The forest park has 10 miles of trails to enjoy on foot, by bike or on horseback. Tel: 028 6634 9001
The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. Visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value. The National Trust oversees the Causeway and provides the half million tourists who go there every year with all the information that they need.
When you step into the world of Belleek Pottery you enter one of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages. Visitors can enjoy a little retail therapy in the Belleek Pottery showroom and no visit is complete without taking a little time out at the Belleek Pottery restaurant to enjoy some well deserved refreshments from the savoury and sweet menu served. Tel: +44(0) 28 6865 9300 Email: visitorcentre@belleek.ie Facebook.com/belleekpottery
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Great Irish Writers
BRIAN FRIEL
F
or a small country, Ireland has produced more than its fair share of incredible writers. Sadly we lost one of the best playwrights of recent times last month with the passing of Brian Friel at the age of 86. Friel will go down as a legend of Irish theatre, with plays such as Philadelphia Here I Come, Dancing At Lughnasa and Translations among his impressive body of work. Friel was born near Omagh in Co. Tyrone in 1929. At the age of ten his family relocated to Derry, where he attended St Columb’s College. He initially trained to be a priest for two years in St Patrick’s College in Maynooth before qualifying as teacher in St Joseph’s College, Belfast in 1950. He spent ten years teaching and enjoyed some early writing success, with numerous short stories being published. This was followed in 1958 by his play A Sort of Freedom being broadcast on BBC Northern Ireland. In 1960, Friel left his teaching job and became a full time writer, writing short
stories for The New Yorker and a regular column in the Irish Press. After a period of studying Irish-born director Tyrone Guthrie in the United States, Friel returned to Ireland and had great success with his 1964 play Philadelphia Here I Come. Telling the story of a young man about to emigrate to the United States, the play ran in the Gaiety Theatre in Dublin and made Friel’s name at home and abroad, running almost continuously worldwide ever since. Friel had married Anne Morrison in 1954 and had five children. In 1966 he and his family moved to Inishowen in Donegal, living first in Muff before settling in Greencastle, where Friel would spend the rest of his life. Many of his plays were set in the fictional town of Ballybeg, a town inspired by small Irish towns such as the ones that he lived in. Friel continued to produce acclaimed work throughout his life, notably Translations in 1980 and Dancing At Lughnasa in 1990. The latter went on to become a film starring Meryl Streep in
1998. In spite of all of his success, Friel was a quiet and humble man who shunned the media spotlight and was happy for his work to speak for him. He famously didn’t attend the Tony Awards when Dancing At Lughnasa picked up three awards because he didn’t like the attention. With his passing, Ireland has lost an inspiring literary figure. However his work will live on and continue to be enjoyed by generations to come. And that’s probably just the way he would like it. Photo courtesy of Artist Colin Davidson.
LETTERKENNY
I
f you’re travelling to the North West of the country then Letterkenny has to be on your list of places to visit. Letterkenny is the largest town in Donegal and visitors will love the town’s theatres, museums, shops and thriving nightlife and there’s another great reason to visit Letterkenny. The town recently scooped the title of Ireland’s Tidiest Town at the annual National Tidy Towns Awards. Letterkenny was also named Ireland’s tidiest large urban centre at the same awards so you know that you will be visiting a beautiful town. The town has a host of top notch hotels to stay in, as well as a range of amazing restaurants and some great pubs that you can while the night away in, enjoying great company, music and craic. There are a number of lovely parks to visit as well as cultural experiences to drink in. The Donegal County Museum is located on High Road, just off Main Street. The exhibition on the first floor gallery tells the story of County Donegal from the Stone Age to the Twentieth Century, through artefacts and contemporary photographs. Glenveagh National Park is located in Churchill just outside the town. This stunning park offers 10000 hectares of mountains, lakes, glens, woods, nature trails and guided tours. The centrepiece of the park is the 19th century castle with its ornate gardens. Just 5km outside Letterkenny is New Mills, Corn and Flax Mills. The restored mills feature two separate water driven 50
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mills, allowing visitors to step back in time to see first hand the industrial and agricultural methods of a bygone era. But the best thing about Letterkenny is the people. The friendly locals will make you feel right at home and once you visit Letterkenny, you may never want to leave. Letterkenny Tourist Office Neil T, Blaney Road, Letterkenny, Donegal Tel: +353 74 9121160 letterkenny@failteireland.ie
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie