Travelireland Volume 2 Issue 12 April 2015
magazine
“You’re the Bull” “You’re the Bull” “You’re the Bull” Celebrating its 50th year
The Field
At the Gaiety Theatre
Flex your Mussels in Connemara! Also inside this issue... Animal Inside Out exhibition Kinsale Street Food Festival
A life of Crime at the Franco Literary Festival
Northern Lights shine on The Belfast Film Festival
www.travelirelandmagazine.com Twitter: @traveliremag Facebook: Travel Ireland Magazine
Welcome to our April issue, Whether this is your first time visiting these our shores, or whether you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. Whether it is myths and medieval castles, or craic and culture in the confines of a cozy pub and to the tune of a stray tin whistle, you are going to need a friendly hand to gently point you in the right direction. So from all of us here at Travel Ireland, a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte! And enjoy your stay!
Publisher/Managing Director John Carey Director Paul Daly Features Writer Mark O Brien Design and Art Direction Tim Evans Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas nichola@ellenmediacom.ie Advertising John Carey john@ellenmediacom.ie 087 9113732 Bill Daly bill@travelirelandmagazine.ie 087 1533262 Aran Sheehan 085 7110826 aran@travelirelandmagazine.com Contributors: Adam Patterson Photograhy, Arran Henderson, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Stephen Walker, Emma Brereton. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. And to Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishe’rs prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
contents... 04 - WELCOME TO LEINSTER 06 - EXPLORE LEINSTER 08 - Franco-Irish Literary Festival 10 - THEATRE 12 - Recommended Shopping 14 - Dublin Bay Prawn Festival 16 - LEINSTER RESTAURANTS 18 - LEINSTER PUBS 20 - Irish Cycling Show 21 - Kilkenny Shop 22 - Animal Inside Out Exhibition 25 - The Field 26 - WELCOME TO MUNSTER 28 - MUNSTER PUBS 29 - MUNSTER RESTAURANTS 30 - EXPLORE MUNSTER 32 - Lusitania 100 33 - Kenmare 34 - Kinsale Street Food Festival 36 - WELCOME TO CONNAUGHT 37 - EXPLORE CONNAUGHT 38 - Connemara Mussell Festival 40 - Galway Food Festival 42 - CONNAUGHT RESTAURANTS 43 - CONNAUGHT PUBS 44 - WELCOME TO ULSTER 45 - EXPLORE ULSTER 46 - Belfast Film Festival 46 - ULSTER PUBS 47 - ULSTER RESTAURANTS 50 - Antrim
Leinster - The east coast province
L
Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.
Four Courts, Dublin
If you want to escape to the country without actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and 4 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Hill of Tara restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of
the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls
Kilkenny Castle
stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum . Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
Explore Leinster
The National Stud The Chester Beatty Library The Irish National Stud has been producing winners on the racecourse since they sent out Minoru to win the Epsom Derby in 1909. But it is far more than just a centre of equine excellence. It is also home to some of Ireland’s finest natural treasures, in particular the breathtakingly beautiful Japanese Gardens, the finest of their kind in Europe. The gardens trace the passage of a soul from birth to death and beyond, at the same time providing a meeting place for the cultures of East and West. You can also savour the serene and spiritual experience provided by one of the Stud’s more recent additions, St Fiachra’s Garden, a stunningly raw representation of our country’s singular landscape. There are guided tours, a gift shop and restaurant. Tel: 045 521 617
Glendalough
This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. Tel 0404 45325/45352. 6 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3 and 4pm. Opening hours, 10-5 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5pm. Tel 01 407 0750
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01453 5984.
The Book of Kells
The Guinness Storehouse
Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. Tours are 16.50 Euro, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding. Tel 01 408 4800
The Old Library and the Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College Dublin are the first things that all visitors gravitate to when first setting foot in Dublin. Located in the heart of the city, a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College will bring visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. And upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the magical environs of the justly famous Long Room. Inside the Book of Kells itself is a 9thcentury gospel manuscript famous throughout the world for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as “insular majuscule”. Guided tours of the campus, including the Old Library, The Books of Kells, and the magnificent Long Room upstairs are 12 Euro. Opening hours: 9:30-5:00 (4:30 Sun) Tel 01 896 1661
Explore Leinster
Jameson Visitors Centre
Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7 Experience the Jameson Distillery tour and let their expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson. Set in a recreated distillery scene, all visitors learn how three ingredients make the number one Irish whiskey in the world. Guided tours last one hour and include a signature Jameson drink. Volunteers are selected to partake in a tutored whiskey tasting where each person receives a much coveted Irish Whiskey Taster Certificate. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. 01 807 2348
Cultural and Historical Walking Tours The streets of Dublin have been home to the Vikings, Normans, Elizabethans, Georgians and Victorians. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer. At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. From “How To Read A Painting:symbols and meaning at the National Gallery” to Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own tour. See www.dublindecoded.com
The War Memorial Gardens
When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. 01 475 7816
The National Museum of Ireland
The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours. Tel 01 6777444.
Avondale House and Forest Park
Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-1891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www. coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park. 0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com
Casino Marino
The Casino was designed by Sir William Chambers as a pleasure house for James Caulfield, 1st Earl of Charlemont, and is one of the finest 18th century neo-classical buildings in Europe. The Casino, meaning “small house”, and notwithstanding its name, contains 16 finely decorated rooms, endlessly rich in subtlety and design. It is a remarkable building, both in terms of its structure and its history. The Casino is located at Marino, just off the Malahide Road and only three miles north of the centre of Dublin. Open 10-5pm, admission 3 Euro, 1 Euro for students and children. Tel 01 833 1618 APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 7
Franco-Irish Literary Festival 8 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
W
e all love a good murder mystery from time to time and lovers of such tales can learn from the best at this year’s FrancoIrish Literary festival. Crime fiction is the theme of this year’s festival which takes place in Dublin Castle on 25th April and Alliance Française on Kildare Street on 26th April. Now in its 16th year, the festival aims to strengthen the great friendship between Ireland and France and offers Irish audiences the chance to discover some amazing French writers, as well as hear from some of the best writers that Ireland has to offer. This will be done through the round table discussions that will take place in Dublin Castle on Saturday 25th April.
Thirteen writers will take part in these discussions, with some of the writers taking part including John Banville, Sinead Crowley and Didier Daeninckx, with all readings being simultaneously interpreted in English and French. There will also be a crime fiction masterclass with Jean-Bernard Pouy in the Irish Writers Centre on 23rd April and a special day dedicated to school and university visits to raise awareness among young readers on 24th April. Jean-Bernard Pouy has written around a hundred noir novels including eleven for the Série Noire series and will share his considerable experience with twelve advanced writers during his masterclass. Some of the topics that will be covered during the round table discussions on 25th April include; The Usual Suspects, The Queen of Crime, Crime Fiction on the big screen and Murder. All of the discussions are open to the public and admission is free. This festival is a must for those interested in reading and writing crime fiction. As part of the festival’s partnership with the Hennessy Literary Awards, there will be a reading from Brendan McLoughlin, New Writer of the Year at the 43rd Hennessy Literary Awards. This reading will be introduced by this year’s judge, respected journalist and author Martina Devlin. Brendan’s short story Last Breath is due to be republished this year in The Hennessy Book of Irish Fiction 2005 2015. The festival will close with the popular Literary Brunch in the Alliance Française on Sunday 26th April. So if you fancy yourself as the next Arthur Conan Doyle or Agatha Christie then get yourself down to Dublin Castle this April and learn from the best writers that Ireland and France have to offer.
See www.francoirishliteraryfestival.com for more details
Top: Didier Daeninckx Middle Left: Sinead Crowley Middle Right: John Banville Bottom: Alliance Francais
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 9
Theatre
The Abbey Hedda Gabler
turn their back on their parent’s ancient feud and embark on a secret love affair, that ignites within them a depth of feeling that explodes in some of the most memorable writing to ever be uttered on stage. With their families at war, the lovers risk everything to be together. Directed by Wayne Jordan, this production of Shakespeare’s immortal tale is not to be missed. 26th March - 16 May Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042
National Concert Hall
Hedda Gabler is something to everyone. Yet, has no idea who she is to herself. Starring Catherine Walker in the iconic title role, the Abbey Theatre presents Henrik Ibsen’s masterpiece Hedda Gabler. The play tells the story of Hedda, the daughter of an aristocratic general whose life and and marriage are thrown into turmoil following the return of a former lover. Mark O’Rowe, whose previous credits include Howie The Rookie and Intermission, brings his unique style to this daring new adaptation which is directed by the awardwinning Annabelle Comyn.
The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland. But its cultural brief extends across all musical genres from Classical to Irish Trad, to jazz, folk and world music. Highlights this April include the Easter Family Workshops on Thursday 2nd April, An Evening with Melanie McCabe on Sunday 5th April, Richard Clayderman on Thursday 9th April, Tomasz Stanko Quartet on Friday 10th April, A Celebration of Handel on Monday 13th April, La Traviata on Sunday 19th April, Sister Act - A Divine Musical Comedy from 22nd to 25th April, and the RTE Concert Orchestra playing the John Lennon Songbook on Thursday 30th April. Tel: 01 417 0000 Or go to www.nch.ie
The Gaiety
God Bless the Child
10th April - 16th May Tel 01 878 722
The Gate
Romeo and Juliet
Harding as The Bull McCabe. Turn to page 25 for more details of this exciting show. 31st March to 11th April Tel: 0818 719 388
Bord Gais Energy Theatre Jersey Boys
Jersey Boys is the true story of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons and their rise to stardom from the wrong side of the tracks. Inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, the band sold 175 million records worldwide by the time they had turned 30. The show is packed with their hits, such as Beggin’, Sherry, Walk Like A Man, December, 1963 (Oh What a Night), Big Girls Don’t Cry and Rag Doll. Tim Driesen will head the cast as Frankie Valli, a role he previously played at the Prince Edward Theatre in the West End. 1st - 18th April Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie
Mermaid County Wicklow Arts Centre Foil Arms and Hog
Foil Arms and Hog have recently completed a world tour, have over 4 million hits on Youtube and have sold out six years running at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. This April they’re coming to the Mermaid for one night only and it’s sure to be a night not to be missed. Where else will you find out what happens at an Irish intervention for a boy who doesn’t drink, or see the self-indulgent La Bullshat theatre group. You’ll also get the chance to meet Christian Rockers ‘God Vibrations’. This is sketch comedy at its finest. 11th April
Shakespeare’s timeless tragedy of teenage passions and civil strife comes to The Gate this month. Romeo and Juliet, from two rival families,
10 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
The short stories of Cork born Frank O’Connor are rightly regarded as classics of their kind. Now, for the first time, three of those funniest stories are brought together within a single full-length play “God Bless the Child: First Confessions are the hardest. The show promises to be evocative, funny and moving and will feature some memorable performances. Also on in The Gaiety this month is the 50th anniversary staging of The Field, starring Michael
Other highlights at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month include two Fishamble plays, Forgotten and Underneath, on 1st and 2nd April, Damien Dempsey will play solo shows on 3rd and 4th April, Michael Harding on 9th April, Arsenic and Old Lace 14th - 18th April, Tom Crean Antarctic Explorer on 28th April and International Dance Day on 29th April. Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 11
Recommended Shopping
Kildare Village
every Thursday and Friday.
www.powerscourtcentre.ie
Brown Thomas
Less than an hours drive from Dublin Airport and the city centre, Kildare Village offers a unique shopping experience. One of a collection of nine Chic Outlet Shopping Villages that are situated near major European cities, Kildare Village offers an unrivalled luxury shopping experience. The outlet is characterised by its charming open air setting, welcoming service and luxury brands. There is a calendar of events all year round and you will find massive discounts on world leading brands, with discounts of up to 60% offered on some of the world’s leading brands. Some of the brands that can be found at the outlet include Calvin Klein, DKNY, Clarks, French Connection, Hugo Boss, Karen Millen and Tommy Hilfiger. There are also an excellent range of services offered to shoppers, such as a Tourist Information Centre, Hands Free Shopping, dog kennels, a childrens play area and a Frequent Flyer Programme.
Kilkenny Shop has been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. There are currently eleven Kilkenny Shops nationwide, including locations in Dublin (3 locations), Meath, Kildare, Tipperary, Cork, Killarney and Galway, as well as two sister Christy’s stores in Killarney and Cobh, Co Cork. You can also shop online at kilkennyshop.com with delivery available nationwide and around the world.
Opening hours: Mon/Tues/Wed/Fri and Sat 8.30am – 7pm Thurs 8.30am – 8pm Sunday 10am – 6pm www.kilkennyshop.com
Powerscourt Centre
www.kildarevillage.com
The Kilkenny Shop
The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium for Irish designed products, from fashion and jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the 12 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre offers a number of superb wedding outlets. There are a range of eclectic restaurants and cafes in the Centre committed to providing fresh, quality cuisine and there are lots of entertaining events on throughout the year, you will even find the centre’s resident pianist playing at lunchtime
If it’s a high end shopping experience that you’re after, then Brown Thomas is the place to go. Brown Thomas offers unrivalled service and a wide range of the world’s leading brands. From the moment you are welcomed into the store by the top-hatted doorman, you will know that you are in for a wonderful shopping experience. There are stores in Cork, Galway and Limerick but the iconic flagship store is situated on Dublin’s main shopping thoroughfare of Grafton Street. In this store you can find some of the world’s finest brands, including Armani, Baker, Chanel, Dior, Elizabeth Arden and Yves Saint Laurent to name just a few. The Dublin store also has a restaurant on the third floor which recently relaunched with a menu inspired by Patrick Guilbaud, a 2 Star Michelin Restaurateur, and Brown’s Bar and Cafe on the first floor. The store offers personal shopping services and an unrivalled range of corporate gifts and there is tax free shopping available for non-EU residents.
www.brownthomas.com
Gallery Zozimus
56 Francis Street, Dublin 8, PH : 4539057 Nubian Ibex by Michael Keane Bronze
Lilly Pond Botanic Gardens by Andrii Trushkevych Oil on Canvas
Sun & Moon by Fidelma Massey Ceramic
Propeller fish by Ivan Panov Ceramic
Dublins Largest Ceramic Gallery incorporating Fine Art Over 70 Ceramic Artists on Show
Email: info@galleryzozimus.ie, Web: www.galleryzozimus.ie
Dublin Bay Prawn Festival D
ublin Bay is famous for its prawns and the beautiful harbour village of Howth in North County Dublin is the setting for a celebration of this particular culinary delight. The Dublin Bay Prawn Festival runs from Friday 24th to Sunday 26th April, giving visitors the chance to sample some of the best seafood that Dublin has to offer along with fun events for the whole family. The festival kicks off on Friday evening with a Mystery Dine Around as well as a Cultural Night in the Market Marquee. On Saturday and Sunday visitors can sample food at the food stalls and enjoy family fun in the Festival Village. There will also be boat tours to Ireland’s Eye and a Fun Fair on Harbour Road. Lovers of history and culture can visit the Arts and Heritage Marquee where they can sing sea shanties, enjoy some story telling and listen to the Howth Gospel Choir. There will also be a Howth history exhibition and fishing skills demonstrations. During the festival visitors can pay a visit to some of Howth’s award winning restaurants where they can avail of special three course meals for €30. Each restaurant will feature some of their best selling dishes as well as showcasing their own delicious Dublin Bay Prawn dishes. If you love seafood then you won’t want to miss this great festival.
See www.dublinbayprawnfestival.ie for the full festival line-up
14 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
777
7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 425 4052
Thornton’s Restaurant
Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. tel 01 478 7008
There’s been a huge influx of Chinese in Dublin of late, and the choice of Chinese food in the city has improved no end. But this is still the best place to find dim sum. And significantly, most of the people you’ll find eating here are other Chinese diners.
Super Miss Sue
Drury St, Dublin 2. tel 01 679 9009 One of the few places to get really great fresh fish in the centre of town, and surprisingly affordable. You can treat yourself to a full meal in the restaurant proper, or a traditional fish and chips of exceptional quality in the diner next door.
A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing.
Acapulco Mexican Restaurant
7 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 1085
Darwin’s Restaurant
80 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 7511
This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.
Yamamori
71-2 S. George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 475 5001
This family run restaurant caters to all possible tastes, whether carnivorous, coeliac or vegetarian. Their own in house butcher provides them with meats, game and poultry, they have fresh fish and a wide selection of dishes made from locally sourced vegetables. And you can finish it all off with their homemade desserts.
Fade Street Social
4 Fade St, Dublin 2. tel 01 604 0066 The latest venture from Dublin’s hottest hipster chef Dylan McGrath, this manages to be both screamingly fashionable and a really good restaurant, without being overpowering. It’s not quite as casual as it would have you believe, but it is really, really good.
This lively Mexican Restaurant offers the very best traditional Mexican cuisine, with sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and, best of all their famous deep fried icecream!
Ciao Bella Roma
24-5 Parliament St., Dublin 2. tel 01 677 0004
Café Topolis
37 Parliament St, Dublin 2. tel 01 670 4961 The original Yamamori on George’s Street still serves up the best and simplest Japanese food in Dublin. But Yamamori Sushi, their sushi bar on the quays, runs it a close second. And if you’re looking for something a bit more funky, there’s always Yamamori Izakaya.
The Good World
18 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 5373
These are the best pizzas you’ll find north of Naples, and are very much of the Neapolitan variety rather than the much thinner Roman sort. And their special lunch deal, which gives you a pizza and glass of wine for around a tenner is not just the best value lunch in town, it’s the best lunch full stop.
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Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
Le Bon Crubeen
81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1. tel 01 704 1026
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value.
Peploe’s
16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. 01 676 3144
This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.
Whitefriar Grill
16 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 9003
of the pier. So you get spectacular views of the sea, as you munch contentedly on creatures that were recently living there. And they’ve a good value early bird menu to take advantage of too.
KC Peaches
28-9 Nassau St, Dublin 2 01 633 6872 There are four KC Peaches (so far) in the centre of town, but the one opposite Trinity on Nassau Street is probably the best known of them. They specialise in giving you the freshest of ingredients with which to fashion your own lunch. Their salads are especially impressive.
The Elephant & Castle 19 temple Bar, Dublin 2 01 679 3121 Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.
Zaragoza
18 William St., Dublin 2. 01 6794020
Dublin’s original American style casual diner, if you haven’t had their spicy chicken wings during your stay here, you really haven’t visited Dublin’s Temple Bar at all. But go early or in the middle of the afternoon, because it gets very busy at lunch.
Mao’s Restaurant Chatham Row, Dublin 2 01 670 4899
One of the best of the oriental fusion restaurants, there are actually four of them now out in Stillorgan, Dundrum and Dun Laoghaire as well as here in town. Thai and Asian flavoured noodles and rice, they offer an extensive menu at a reasonable price. And the food is top notch.
Zaytoon
14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel. 01 677 3595.
They pride themselves on putting brunch back on the menu, and in producing the best brunch in Dublin. But there’s a lot more than that going on at this superior smart casual restaurant. Their latest Ribs N Rump gives you a 14oz steak and a choice of ribs plus 2 sides for just €40 on Sunday nights.
Kafka Restaurant
236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6. 01 497 7057
The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines. Open Mon-Sun 12noon Midnight (last orders Tel: 01 6794020
Aqua Restaurant 1 West Pier, Howth 01 832 0690
One of the best places to get a bite to eat at the seaside village of Howth, Aqua is at the very end
Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.
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Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Stag’s Head 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 01 679 3687
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.
The Grave Diggers Hidden away just off of Dame Street, there’s been a tavern here on this corner for over 200 Years. And the Stags has long been a traditional haunt for Trinity students, and for the stars of film and television that they grow up to become. Whilst downstairs you can see comedy on Mondays or Irish Trad at the weekends.
Hourican’s Bar
7 Leeson St Lwr, Dublin 2 01 678 9030
Gravediggers
28 Parliament St, Kilkenny 056 776 2573
It reads “John Kavanagh” above the door outside, but everybody knows it as the Grave Diggers, as it’s just around the corner from Glasnevin Cemetery. Before Gunness became so efficiently corporate and the quality of a pint was far less predictable, this used to be where you’d go for the best pint in Dublin. It still is, and they haven’t changed a thing here for years. Happily.
Cleere’s pulls off that rare trick of successfully being two things at the same time. Out the front, it’s a classic, traditional Irish pub. And out back, it’s an exciting theatre that plays host to gigs and plays. And they are as serious about the acts that they allow perform there as they are about keeping the atmosphere exactly the same as it’s always been.
Johnnie Fox’s
Glencullen, Co Dublin. 01 295 5647 Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster.
Situated at the Stephen’s Green end of Leeson Street, this is the perfect place to stop off for a quiet pint before heading off to some of the more glitzier venues in town proper, or on to the rest of the Leeson Street strip.
Grogan’s
15 S William St., Dublin 2 01 677 9320
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Cleere’s Bar and Theatre
1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9 01 8307978
Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Porterhouse
Temple Bar, 16-8 Parliament St, Dublin 2 01 679 8847
There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.
Sweeney’s Bar 32 dame St, Dublin 2 01 635 0056
One of the more recent additions to the Dublin pub scene, you can get to it either from Dame St or from the back of the Stag’s Head. And once inside, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d strayed into a Spanish or Greek taverna. The place is hopping at weekends with students and hipsters earnestly nodding their heads to the bands who play there. And out back, where Sweeneys meets the Stags is a veritable melting pot come the small hours of the morning.
Slattery’s of Rathmines
217-19 Lower Rathmines Rd, Dublin 6
There’s plenty to do in Dublin’s unofficial student quarter, but the only place to go drinking in Rathmines is really here at Slattery’s. No felt, carpet or neon in sight and only the odd television to stain this otherwise classic spit and sawdust pub. Enjoy it while you can as they seem to be going the way of the dodo.
The No Name Bar 3 Fade St, Dublin 2 01 648 0010
Officially it’s the bar above Kelly’s Hotel, opposite the Market Bar and next door to Hogan’s but locals only ever refer to it as the No Name bar. Up on the first floor they’ve taken a suite of elegant Victorian rooms and turned them into a laid back, fashionable bar, complete with a terraced smoking area. And, as you’d expect, they serve up a mean cocktail.
The Liquor Rooms 7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 087 339 3688
Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to
Doheny & Nesbitt’s 5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 01 676 2945
One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier. resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 19
The Irish Cycling Show
N
ow in its fourth year, The Irish Cycling Show will take place in the RDS Main Hall in Ballsbridge, Dublin on 18th and 19th April. The show celebrates all facets of cycling and has grown every year. Last year saw 20000 people attend over the weekend when the show was held in Merrion Square Park at the finish line for the Irish stage of the Giro d’Italia. The show returns to the RDS Main Hall and there is plenty to see and do at this year’s show, including star appearances, bike rides, a test track, seminars and interviews throughout the weekend. Some of the biggest brands in cycling will have exhibitions at the show, including Pro Vision Clothing, Cycling World Magazine, Aropec Sports and Dare 2B. Visitors to the show will also get the chance to see the amazing Savage Skills. Savage Skills are a freestyle mountain bike stunt team who will be putting on amazing, interactive stunt shows over the two days of the show. These jaw-dropping stunts and tricks are not be missed. On top of all of this, the show will serve as the start and finish of the One4All Women on Wheels Bike Race on Saturday 18th April. If you love cycling then can’t afford to miss the Irish Cycling Show.
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Kilkenny Shop
Shopping at Kilkenny
From stylish season fashion to handmade jewellery, dazzling crystal and pottery to contemporary interior design, you can be sure to find some wonderful Irish and internationally designed products at the Kilkenny Shop! Shop the best of Irish at the Kilkenny Shop with leading brands including Waterford Crystal, Aideen Bodkin, Alan Ardiff, Nicholas Mosse, Newbridge and Orla Kiely. Overseas customers can enjoy Tax Free Shopping and the best shipping rate in Dublin, with a flat-rate of just €29.95 to deliver anywhere in the EU and USA!
Dining
T
he Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium for Irish designed products, from fashion and jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. There are currently eleven Kilkenny Shops nationwide, including locations in Dublin (3 locations), Meath, Kildare, Tipperary, Cork, Killarney and Galway, as well as two sister Christy’s stores in Killarney and Cobh, Co Cork. You can also shop online at kilkennyshop.com with delivery available nationwide and around the world.
Feast your senses on the culinary delights of the Kilkenny Café, located upstairs in the Nassau Street store and in the Shanagarry Design Centre. The Kilkenny Café serves up delicious homemade Artisan Irish food at fantastic value, all cooked fresh on site every day by Kilkenny’s team of talented chefs. Serving an array of deliciousness from freshly baked scones and tasty salads to comforting hotpots and tantalising desserts, the Kilkenny Café showcases the best of Irish food. And as an added bonus, most of the dishes served are coeliac friendly! If you’re visiting Dublin, be sure to check out the Kilkenny Café Nassau Street’s unmissable weekly Jazz Brunch each Sunday – the perfect way to spend a laidback Sunday in the capital! Whether you’re planning to treat yourself with a sensational shopping trip or looking for a delicious culinary experience, complete your getaway with an unforgettable visit to the Kilkenny Shop!
Visit kilkennyshop.com for more info, store locations and to shop online. APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 21
Body Worlds Animal Inside Out
E
ver wondered what it’s like to peer inside the trunk of an elephant? Or stand face to face with a gorilla? Well, Body Worlds - Animal Inside Out exhibition gives you the chance to do this and so much more, allowing visitors the chance to better understand the inner workings of rare and familiar animals. The exhibition takes place in the Ambassador Theatre in Dublin from 12th March for a limited
22 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
run. Visitors will get the chance to explore the intricate physiology and biology of nearly 100 plastinated specimens, including entire bodies, body slices and organs of a wide range of animals such as goats, octopuses, sharks and ostriches. “Usually you see specimens as skeletons or taxidermies,” says Noel McHale of promoters MCD. “At Animal Inside Out exhibition guests will see animals in a whole new way and in the most amazing detail as they get under the skin of
some of nature’s most incredible creatures.“ A visit to Animal Inside Out goes beyond what is seen in zoos, aquariums and animal parks and gives new insights into the beauty and importance of animals. It’s sure to be a fun and fascinating day out for the whole family.
Please see www.animalinsideout.ie for more details
236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057
IRISH CRAFT SHOP Est. 1995
in Irish Knitwear, “ We SellSpecialists Traditional Aran Sweaters, Tweeds and Wool Products Wool & Tweed Products”
Open 7 Days Located on Top Floor of St. Stephens Green Centre
www.donegalshop.ie
Top Floor, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 Phone: 014754621 Website: www.donegalshop.ie
francoirish féile litríochta, festival de littérature
2015
SCÉALTA BLEACHTAIREACHTA // POLAR
Literary Festival 25 April, Dublin Castle, Castle Hall 26 April, Alliance Française www.francoirishliteraryfestival.com Admission free APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 23
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Tel: 00353 74 9548936 Email: grace@maramedia.ie
T
o mark the 50th anniversary of its first staging, The Gaiety Theatre present a special production of John B. Keane’s The Field. Written by one of Ireland’s best known playwrights, The Field has captivated audiences for half a century with its dark portrayal of life in North Kerry in the late 1950’s. The play tells the story of The Bull McCabe’s struggle to hold on to a piece of land that he has spent years cultivating from barren rock into fertile land only to see the field then be put up for sale. This leads The Bull to take drastic actions that have dire consequences. The play is based on a true story; the 1959 murder of Moss Moore, a bachelor farmer from Kerry. Moore’s neighbour Dan Foley was suspected of the crime as the pair had a long standing dispute over right of way but the Foley family deny that Dan ever had any involvement and no one was ever convicted of the murder. In 1990 The Field was adapted into a film directed by Jim Sheridan with Richard Harris receiving Golden Globe and Academy Award nominations for Best Actor for his performance as The Bull McCabe. The 50th anniversary staging at The Gaiety is for a limited run from 28th April until 16th May, with low priced previews from 23rd to 27th April. It will be directed by Padraic McIntyre, who has previously directed productions of The Beauty Queen of Leenane, The Tinker’s Curse and Conversations on a Homecoming, and stars renowned playwright and actor Michael Harding as The Bull McCabe. The production also stars Aidan McArdle as William Dee, Ian Lloyd Anderson as Tadhg and Mark O’Regan as The Bird. Michael Harding is perhaps best known for his memoirs; the award winning Staring at Lakes and the recently published Hanging with the Elephants. He has written many plays, six of which have been performed at the Abbey Theatre, and his play The Tinker’s Curse was nominated in the Best New Play category of the Irish Times Theatre Awards in 2007. As an actor, he has been nominated twice for Best Performer at the Dublin Theatre Fringe, winning the award in 2003. The producers are delighted that Michael will play The Bull, believing that “his innate connection with rural Ireland and vast experience with the spoken and written word” make him the perfect choice to play this iconic role.
Bookings can be made in person at The Gaiety Theatre Box Office, South King Street, Dublin 2, by phone via the Gaiety Theatre Booking Line 0818 719388 or online via www.ticketmaster.ie
THE
FIELD
Michael Harding
Seamus O’Rourke
Stephen O’Leary
Terry Byrne
Arthur Riordan
Aidan McArdle
Conor Delaney
Catherine Byrne
Fiona Bell
Geoff Minogue
Ian Llyoud Anderson
Maria McDermottroe
Mark O Regan
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 25
Welcome to Munster
M
unster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights
for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings Fota Wildlife Park are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Contact : Telephone No: 062 61437. E-mail: rockofcashel@opw.ie. County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity
Limerick and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week 26 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Blarney Castle
to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
LelaE A S IurN K Yo Taste of Ir nd
Best Awarded rism Small Tou y 4b Town 201 land Failte Ire
Start or Finish your journey on the Wild Atlantic Way in the historic harbour town of Kinsale
Kinsale Events Summer 2015 18th April Kinsale Street Food Festival 19th April All Ireland Chowder Cook Off 2nd-3rd May Heineken Kinsale Rugby 7s 6th-9th May Lusitania 100 Centenary Commemorations 8th-9th May Kinsale Vintage Car Rally 1st June Kinsale Point to Point Festival 24th-27th June ICRA Nationals and Sovereign’s Cup KYC 1st-3rd August Kinsale Regatta Festival
• 30 Minutes from Cork City with easy access by road, rail, ferry and international airport • Top Hotel, B&B and self-catering accommodation • Gourmet restaurants cafes and lively bars • Walking tours and many activities on and off the water • Galleries & boutique shopping
See www.kinsale.ie for information on Summer Breaks, Festivals, Special Offers and much more!
www.kinsale.ie Supported by Kinsale Chamber of Tourism & Business
Recommended Pubs in Munster
The Bierhaus Pope’s Quay, Cork 021 455 1648
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.
An Brog
72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork 021 4270074
kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.
Jack Meades (under the bridge) Dunmore Rd, Waterford 051 850 950
Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.
Dick Mack’s
Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry 066 915 1960
An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.
Buckley’s Bar
The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. 064 6631037
Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick 061 314 483 (ext 1)
The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the
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Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.
Recommended Restaurants in Munster x
The Old Convent Clogheen, Co Tipperary 052 746 5565
The Lime Tree
Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Co Kerry 064 664 1225
Out of the Blue Dingle Harbour (066) 915 0811.
Hidden away in the village of Clogheen, with the possible exception of the Cashel Palace, this is the finest restaurant in the whole of county Tipperary. Only one sitting at 8pm, and a set tasting menu at 65 Euro, this is quite simply one of the finest dining experiences in Ireland.
Ballymaloe House Shanagarry, Co Cork 021 4652 531
Myrtle Allen bought Ballymaloe in 1948 and she and her extended families have been entertaining and educating the rest of the country ever since. Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but whether dining in the restaurant or staying on the grounds, this is about as luxurious as it gets.
Fishy Fishy Café
Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork. 01 470 0415
With the possible exception of Kinsale, Kenmare is Ireland’s unofficial culinary capital. And this is one of the town’s very best restaurants, specializing in wonderfully fresh fish and succulent lamb.
Dromoland Castle
Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare 061 368 144 Quite simply one of the most imposing and impressive castles on these islands, it boasts rooms and a restaurant to match its imperious surroundings.
They serve only only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.
An Canteen Dykgate st Dingle Tel 0866603778.
Ristorante Rossini 33-4 Princess St, Cork city. 021 427 5818 Kinsale is unquestionably the food capital of Ireland, and this by common consent is one of its finest restaurants. Impeccably fresh fish at reasonable prices.
Isaacs Restaurant McCurtain St, Cork city. 021 450 3805
Hidden away in a budget style hotel, Isaacs has always had a reputation with locals for being a considerably better quality restaurant than you might have expected. And as you’d expect, its very reasonably priced too.
Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle.
The Mustard Seed Ballingarry, Co Limerick 069 68508
About 40 minutes outside of Limerick City, off the Adare road, this is one of those roomy country houses that’s been transformed into a top class hotel and restaurant. One of the finest restaurants in Munster.
La Cucina Antonio Toscano opened this Italian restaurant in the heart of Cork City in 1994, and has always gone out of his way to staff it with his fellow country men and women, from both the North and the South of Italy. And it’s this, together with their extensive menu that makes eating here as close to actually dining in Italy as you could hope to find.
5 University Court, Castletroy, County Limerick. Tel 061 333980 Simply one of the best places for a pizza in the country.
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Explore Munster
Cliffs of Moher
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Blarney Castle
The Hunt Museum
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore. 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry ( Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin, passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh, before returning to Killarney via the N72. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.
Bunratty Castle The Burren
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. And notwithstanding how impressive an example it is of a medieval castle, this is probably because of the famous stone you will there at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab. Which needless to say they duly receive. 021 438 5252 30 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. To Begin to discover the secrets of the Burren, a walk through the Burren Centre Exhibition is essential.
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with the experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round.
GROGANS Where time stands still Host to a continuous changing art exhibition
15 South William Street Telephone 677 9320
CashmereIreland.com by Sue Designer Knits 20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986
20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986
Lusitania 100 - Cork Remembers
O
n 7th May 1915, RMS Lusitania was passing the Cork coast, on it’s way back to Liverpool from New York carrying 1265 passengers and 694 crew. Sadly the Lusitania never made it to Liverpool as it was torpedoed by a German submarine and sank roughly eleven miles due south of the Old Head Lighthouse in Kinsale. 1201 people lost their lives in the tragedy but some were saved and many bodies were recovered due to the heroism of the local Cork communities, who launched rescue efforts in ordinary fishing boats and life boats. To mark the centenary of the disaster, Cork will remember the gallant efforts of their ancestors with a series of events in Kinsale, The Old Head, Cobh and Courtmacsherry. The commemorations will be vast and wide ranging. They will include lectures, talks, photographic exhibitions, street fairs and commemoration dinners in all four towns. There will also be a number of re-enactments of the tragedy. There will be a recreation of the call to service of the RNLI lifeboat in Courtmacsherry. Cobh will remember their rescue efforts with a twilight Flotilla of work boats, fishing boats and pleasure craft, each illuminated with white lights while there will be a recreation of the Inquest with descendants of the jury from 1915 in Kinsale. At 2.10pm on 7th May, the precise time that the Lusitania sank, there will be two Wreath Laying Ceremonies. One will performed by President Michael D. Higgins in Cobh while the other will be performed by Minister for Agriculture, Food and the Marine Simon Coveney at the Lusitania Monument on the Old Head. The sinking of the Lusitania was a hugely important historical event. It was a contributing factor to the United States joining the First World War in 1917 as 128 of the casualties were US citizens. The heroism of the people of Cork in recovering bodies and preventing the loss of more lives should not be forgotten and the centenary commemorations are sure to be a spectacular and emotional experience for those who attend.
www.visitcorkcounty.com/ Lusitania100Cork 32 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Eoin McGarry Pictured at the launch of Lusitania100 Cork. Four coastal communities in Cork are coming together this May 2015 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the RMS Lusitania.
L to R: Mona Kennedy, Irene O’ Driscoll, Marian Britton, Carole O’Driscoll, Mary O’Connor, Elizabeth Forrest, Sheila Foster, Emily Murphy, Budsaba Smith, Pictured at the launch of Lusitania100 Cork.
Kenmare
Kenmare, the Jewel in Kerry’s Crown
M
ost people in Kerry will tell you that the reason that county is known throughout the rest of Ireland as “the kingdom” is because of the regal success they continually enjoy at Gaelic football. But for the tourists that flock there from all over the world every year, it is because of the royal welcome they receive on arriving there. And the jewel in Kerry’s crown is undoubtedly Kenmare. This picturesque town is the perfect location from which to discover the South West of Ireland, linking the internationally famous Ring of Kerry with the rugged Ring of Beara. And the historical, cultural and environmental significance of the town was officially acknowledged when the Irish Tourist Board made it the very first Heritage Town in the country. Kenmare town is a veritable haven of tranquility, gourmet food, superb accommodation and breathtaking scenery
in one of the most natural and unspoilt environments in Ireland. And it’s the perfect halting spot to rest and recuperate as you make your way around the justly famous Ring Of Kerry. This begins from the town of Killarney, which is the only place you should ever begin your trip around the ring from - though technically of course, you could come in the other direction via Killorglin. Once you’ve made your way into Kerry’s genuinely spectacular National Park from Killarney you’ll naturally need somewhere to sit down to take some refreshment. And there really is no better place to do so than at the Park Hotel Kenmare, in the town itself, about half an hour’s drive from Killarney. Though that of course will depend on how much time you’ve spent stopping off on the way to take in the truly spectacular views you’ll be greeted with on your way there. If its knitwear you are after look no
further than Sues Cashmere on the main street her Cashmere is so comfy in fact I am wearing one as I write this and very reasonable too. There are any number of places to stop off at in Kenmare. But a bloody Mary at the Park Hotel, enjoyed the spectacular backdrop that it offers, with the equally famous hospitality that John and Francis Brennan provide there really is the only way to properly enjoy the Ring of Kerry. And if you wnat to justify that kind of indulgence, why take the walk along the old road from Killarney to Kenmare? It’s about 24 km, and will take you around five hours. But it’s a fantastic way to spend a day in Kerry. And you’ll really enjoy that drink once you arrive in Kenmare. Whether it is walking on the mountains, cruising on the bay, horse riding, golfing, fishing, touring or soaking up the best of music, all roads lead to Kenmare.
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Kinsale Street Food Festival
T
he beautiful coastal town of Kinsale in County Cork is famous for its restaurants, and the town’s culinary prowess will be celebrated with the Street Food Festival on 18th and 19th April. The two day festival will see the town transformed into an open air street market, with food stalls and plenty of fun for all the family. Local businesses will be offering samples of their delicious food and take home food for under €5. This is a great chance to sample some of the wonderful food that Kinsale has to offer for a seriously low price. The highlight of the festival is the 5th annual All-Ireland Chowder Cook Off which will take place in Acton’s Hotel on Sunday 19th April from 2 to 4pm. Sponsored by Clona, the Chowder Cook Off will see representatives from restaurants in all 32 counties in Ireland battle it out to be crowned the 2015 All Ireland Chowder Champion, following in the footsteps of Fitzpatrick’s Restaurant, Dunleer, Co. Louth, who won the competition in 2014. The winner receives a customised trophy and will be invited to Kinsale’s twinned town, Newport Rhode Island, next year as a guest chef.
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Pictured in Kinsale at The 4th All Ireland Chowder Cook Off in Actons Hotel at the weekend were Aimee Hanlon, Dymphna Fitzpatrick, Arunas Jokubauskas, Danny Fitzpatrick, Aidan Digney and Janine Kennaghan from the overall winners Fitzpatrick’s bar & Restaurant, Dundalk. Picture. John Allen
Janine Kennaghan from Fitzpatrick’s bar & Restaurant, Dundalk. Picture. John Allen
Kinsale Street Food Festival
And the great thing is that the judges will be you, the attendees of the event. Everyone attending the event will be given a voting card on entry and for €10 will be allowed to sample all 32 of the chowders that will be up for consideration. This should be quite an unusual and interesting lunch plus you get the chance to have your say in crowning the 2015 All Ireland Chowder Champion. The All Ireland Chowder Cook Off is organised by Kinsale Good Food Circle, an organisation set up in 1971 to promote tourism in Kinsale. Their chairman Liam Edwards had this to say about the Chowder Cook Off; “The All-Ireland Chowder Cook Off has become a much-loved event on Kinsale’s annual calendar. A thriving fishing port, famous for its gourmet restaurants, and an anchor destination of the Wild Atlantic Way, Kinsale is the natural home for this prestigious national competition. We extend a warm welcome to visitors from every county in Ireland, and from overseas. May the best chef win.” The competition is sure to be fierce and if you reckon that you know your chowder, then get yourself to Kinsale this April and have your say while sampling 32 variations of one of the nicest seafood dishes there is.
Tel: 021 4773571 www.kinsalerestaurants.com/event/ 5th-ireland-chowder-cook/
Top: Pictured were volunteers Denise O’Leary, Lydia Buckley, Micheala O’Connell and Liz Keogh with event organiser Maria O’Mahony from The Kinsale Good Food Circle. Picture. John Allen
Middle: Pictured at Kinsale’s Taste The Wild Atlantic Way Street Food Fest during The 4th All Ireland Chowder Cook Off at the weekend was Chef Shane Sheedy from The Lord Kingsale serving Ryan Scott and Ina Kennedy from Killarney. Picture. John Allen
Bottom: Compere Derek Davis interviewing Conor Ryan from the Cornstore in Cork. Picture. John Allen APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 35
Welcome To Connaught
Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands
T
he province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran
Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film ‘The Quiet The Claddagh by night Man ‘ was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist
are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.
Explore Connaught
Kylemore Abbey
Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was re-opened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.
Glencar Waterfall
Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Inishbofin Island
Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.
Croagh Patrick
Connemara
Mullaghmore
Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.
Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. 098 64114
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Connemara Mussel Festival
Mussel bags at the killary
N
o trip to Ireland is complete, without a trip to the beautifully rugged area of Connemara in Co. Galway. And while you’re there you should sample the beautiful Killary Mussels that are celebrated every year at the Connemara Mussel Festival. The festival takes place from 1st to 3rd May in Tullycross on the Renvyle Peninsula, not far from Killary Harbour. The Atlantic Ocean feeds Killary Harbour twice daily with thousands of gallons of fresh seawater, which bring natural food sources to the growing mussels. The surrounding valleys provide a constant supply of freshwater and this mix of fresh and salt water gives Killary mussels a unique, sweet flavour. It is this distinctive dish that has been celebrated at the Connemara Mussel Festival for the past decade. One of the major highlights of the festival is the Mussel Cooking Competitions. Amateur and professional cooks get the chance to pit their mussel cooking skills against each other and there is also kids cooking competitions on Saturday and Sunday of the festival. The competitors will have to impress a pretty strong judging panel if they want to land the prizes this year. Renowned television and radio cookery presenter Máirín Uí Chomáin, a native of Connemara, will head the judging panel. Máirín will be ably assisted in her task of finding the best mussel cooks by Jack Duffy of the well known Temple Bar restaurant Elephant and Castle, and Tim O’Sullivan, head chef of the local Renvyle House Hotel. So if you think you have what it takes to impress those judges then maybe you should head West this May for the Connemara Mussel Festival.
www.connemaramusselfestival.com
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Mussel Feast at The Devils Gap Killary Harbour
Sally McKenna cooking lobster
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Brian McCormick, Head Chef The Malt House with Galway Food Festival Director JP McMahon and Heather Flaherty, McCambridges Executive Chef at the launch of the Galway Food Festival which runs over the Easter Bank Holiday the 2nd of April to the 6th in Galway City and County. Photo:Andrew Downes
T
he fourth annual Galway Food Festival celebrates Galway’s rich culinary landscape. With events all across the city and county, the Galway Food Festival is a family friendly event that allows visitors to sample all of the sumptuous food that Galway has to offer. From the Festival Food Village at the Spanish Arch to country markets in Galway, Moycullen and Woodquay, there is something for everyone with talks, tours, demonstrations, workshops and most importantly, tastings, to enjoy. Over 100 restaurants, food outlets and
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food producers will be involved in the festival throughout Galway City and County and there are also some events planned in some surprise locations. There will be Food Tours to South Galway and Inishmore and a Seaside Foraging event for those who fancy digging for their dinner - plus there’s a chance to sample some award winning local beer with a tour of the Galway Hooker brewery. Derry Clarke, McCambridge’s and Sally and John McKenna will be on hand to give some expert cookery demonstrations while those interested in Innovation in Restaurants and The Future of Farming in the West can attend
some of the excellent talks that will take place on Saturday 4th April. Guest speakers at these talks include chefs Sasu Laukkonen, Boris Leite, Rodrigo Poco, former Minister for the Environment, Heritage and Local Government Eamon O’Cuiv and Dr Fiona Brennan of the Plant and AgriBiosciences Research Centre in NUI Galway. So if you fancy learning a bit more about cookery, sampling some of the finest local cuisine or just enjoying some afternoon tea in the fabulous G Hotel then Galway is the place to be this Easter.
www.galwayfoodfestival.com
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Recommended Pubs in Connaught
Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons) 17 Cross st, Galway 091 568 820
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.
The Quays
11 Quay St, Galway 091 568 347
Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!
Furey’s Pub Bridge St, Sligo 087 958 3080
Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers.
Bosh Bar and Restaurant Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!
Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo 094 925 0534
Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.
Roísín Dubh
Matt Malloy’s
Lower Dominick St., Galway 091 586 540
Bridge St., Westport 098 26655
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.
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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught
Kai Café
Sea Rd. Galway city. 091 526 003
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.
The Cottage Restaurant Jamestown, Co. Leitrim. 071 962 5933
Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.
Ashford Castle
Cong, Co. Mayo. 094 954 6003 Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.
Upstairs @ West Restaurant The Twelve, Barna, Galway city. 091 597000 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.
Waterfront House Restaurant Enniscrone, County Sligo. 096 37120
Eala Bhán
Rockwood Parade, Sligo town. 071 914 5823
If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.
The Yew Tree Restaurant
Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon. 090 666 1255 Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.
An Port Mór Restaurant
1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo. 098 26730
The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a specialty. APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 43
Welcome to Ulster
Marble Arch Caves
T
he Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.
is the most notable. The famous mountains or ‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland. Giants Causeway
Malin Head
County Donegal is in the northwest of the Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly 44 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the new
Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Belfast City Hall
Explore Ulster
Titanic Belfast
Since it opened in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, and over a million visitors went through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six story building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the very site where the famous ship was first built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, hull shaped wings which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. The story is brought up to the present with the discovery of the wreck, and into the future with live links to contemporary undersea exploration. And the galleries employ a variety of interactive media including CGI, film, audio, artefacts and full-scale replicas. Not only that, there’s an actual ride through the Titanic giving you a view of how the ship was physically put together. Tel 028 9076 6386
The Giant’s Causeway
The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast north of the town of Bushmills. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to the East to take on a giant who lived over there. Voted by BBC Radio listeners as the fourth greatest natural wonder in the UK, visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations, which have stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic storms for millions of years. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire people. And to stroll along the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time. In 1986 they opened the Giants Causeway Visitors centre, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its coveted list of sites, which are of exceptional interest and universal value. And the National Trust which oversees the Causeway provides the half million tourists who go there every year with any and all the information that they might need.
The Old Bushmills Distillery In 1608, King James I of England granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first ever distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. “Whiskey” with an “e” is Irish by the way, and without is Scotch. And the word itself originated from the Irish word for water, “uisce”. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. In 2008, Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of their original licence to distil whiskey. They marked the occasion with the release of a limited edition Irish whiskey of exceptional smoothness, Bushmills 1608. Today Bushmills Irish Whiskey is owned by Diageo, and over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel 028 2073 3218
Ulster American Folk Park
Situated at the base of the Sperrin mountain range just 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. And you can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. They offer an array of ensuite rooms, and dorms that sleep up to 7 in bunk beds, with linen, laundry and drier rooms, plus kitchens, bathrooms, and TV, DVD and games rooms. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918
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I am Belfast
T
he Belfast Film Festival returns for it’s 15th year from 16th to 25th April and this year’s line up is a cracking one with something for all lovers of film. There will be premieres of films from local artists, talks about film history and the filmmaking process with screenwriters, writers and broadcasters, special events and films of all genres including science fiction, fantasy, martial arts, horror and all things in between. If you love film then there is sure to be something for you at the 15th annual Belfast Film Festival. The opening night of the festival will see the gala premiere of director Mark Cousins’ new film I Am Belfast. With cinematography from Christopher Doyle (Rabbit-Proof Fence, In The
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Mood For Love) and a score by David Holmes (71, Hunger), I Am Belfast stars Helena Bereen as a 10,000 year old woman who claims to be the city of Belfast itself, who becomes our guide through the city. The film is neither a conventional drama or a conventional documentary and offers a unique view of the city and should be a great way to kick off the festival. The festival will close with the gala premiere of Shooting for Socrates on the Waterfront Hall and the closing night gala film will be The Survivalist which will be shown in Movie House on Dublin Road. Shooting for Socrates is a comedy set against the backdrop of the 1986 World Cup and The Troubles in Northern Ireland, and tells the story of nine year old Tommy as he learns to make sense of the world through his passion for
football and his father’s love of Greek philosophy. Written by Marie Jones, the film stars John Hannah as Billy Bingham, Conleth Hill as Jackie Fullerton and Ciaran McMenamin as Sammy McIlroy.
Shooting for Socrates
Movie Network
Blazing Saddles The Survivalist is the feature film debut of local filmmaker Stephen Fingleton and tells the story of a loner who lives off the land in post-collapse Northern Ireland. When his cabin is found by two women, the film quickly descends into a thriller as food and trust run into short supply. The film stars Martin McCann, Mia Goth and Olwen Fouéré. Elsewhere there are some great special events lined up throughout the festival. The classic 1970’s movie Network, starring William Holden, Faye Dunaway, Peter Finch and Robert Duvall about a struggling TV network will be shown in an appropriate setting the BBC Blackstaff House on 16th April. There will also be a broadcast media themed after party in The Menagerie on University Street. Saturday 18th April sees a Blazing Saddles night in The Black Box with live music, fancy dress, hay bales, beans and beers in celebration of Mel Brooks’ anarchic comedy starring Cleavon Little and Gene Wilder and co-written by the legendary Richard Pryor. And that’s just a small taste of the wonderful events and films that will be going on all across Belfast for what is sure to be an amazing Belfast Film Festival. The Survivalist
www.belfastfilmfestival.org
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Ulster Recommended Pubs
The Crown Liquor Saloon 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast 028 9024 3187
Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin.
White’s Tavern
2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast 028 9024 3080 Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.
Kelly’s Cellars 30-32 Bank St, Belfast 028 9024 6058
Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.
The John Hewitt 51 Donegall St., Belfast 028 9023 3768
This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.
The Duke Of York 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast 028 9024 1062
One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and
whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.
Peadar O’Donnell’s 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry 028 7126 7295
There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.
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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster
Ox
1 Oxford St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 4121 Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
The Ginger Bistro
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 1150 Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining
7-8 Hope St, Belfast. 0044 28 9024 4421
55 Degrees North
1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim. 0044 28 7082 2811
experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.
Vanilla Restaurant
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.
Deane’s Restaurant
36-40 Howard St, Belfast. 0044 28 9033 1134
67 Main St, Newcastle. 0044 28 4372 2268
Shu
253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast. 0044 28 9038 1655 They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.
Telfords Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast. 0044 28 9043 4000 Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
Lough Erne Resort
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6632 3230
Sun Kee Restaurant
42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 2016 One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.
Lusty Beg
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6863 3300
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most
This island spa is set on a 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Coco
Sakura, 82 Botanic Av, Belfast
0044 28 9043 9590 In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.
Speranza Restaurant, 16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast 044 28 9023 0213 Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
Derry Jazz Festival
W
ith over 250 events in 60 different venues, the city of Derry will become the home of jazz for the Derry Jazz and Big Band Festival from 30th April to 3rd May. The festival promises to be five days of Jazz, Jump, Jive, Swing and Blues delivered by some of the finest artists in the business with the highlight being a very special performance from Jamie Cullum. Cullum’s show will take place on 4th May and will have a local element to it as he has invited St. Mary’s College Choir to perform with him. Jamie has a special connection with the choir after he jammed with them last year as part of the BBC Radio 4 Radio Pilgrimage series. “We are delighted to welcome Jamie Cullum, who is of course recognised as one of the most exciting young jazz artists on the music scene,” says Karan Leonard, Festival and Events Manager of Derry City Council, who are organising the festival. “I know Jamie will attract a diverse range of music lovers to the festival, as he’s well known for his unique jazz interpretations of current music. That includes his young fans at St Mary’s
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College who will be thrilled to meet up with him again and actually perform at the concert. He got a fantastic reception on his first visit to the city and I have no doubt his return will be equally as popular.”
With around 35,000 visitors expected to the festival, Derry is the place to be to kick the summer off. Don’t forget your dancing shoes.
www.cityofderryjazzfestival.com
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie