Travel Ireland Volume 3 Issue27

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Travelireland Volume 3 Issue 27 July 2016

Back by popular demand

Once is never enough at The Olympia!

magazine

Standing strong after 200 years

The Ha’penny Bridge

by Pat Liddy

Brendan Behan a great Irish Writer

Riverdance

at the Gaiety Theatre

Carrick on Shannon has a new Boatel

One Million Dubliners at

Glanevin Museum & Cemetery

Jumping ahead of schedule at

The Dublin Horse Show

Why is The Gobbins so awesome? Galway Arts Festival colourful as ever

Theres a pot’o Gold at The Killarney Races!


GRAMMy

WINNER 1 AWARd

1OSCAR

INC. TONy BEST 8

AWARdS

MuSICAl

The MulTi AwArd-winning MusicAl coMes hoMe To dublin

‘tender, funny and soaring’ VarieTY

Once is a celebration of music, love and the city of Dublin. Full of glorious music, the show is performed by an extraordinary cast of actor musicians, who sing, dance and play their hearts out on stage. It features the Oscar-winning Falling Slowly… and the city’s only on-stage bar! See it at home in Dublin’s historic Olympia Theatre this summer.

‘A love affair with music’

The New York Times

A MusT-see dublin experience 2 July – 27 August 2016 Olympia Theatre, Dublin oncemusical.ie #OnceinDublin


CONTENTS 4 Welcome To Leinster 6 Once 8 Riverdance 10 Theatre 12 Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours 14 The Ha’penny Bridge by Pat Liddy 16 Dublin Horse Show 18 Shopping 20 Artisan Food & Drink 22 Explore Leinster 24 Leinster Restaurants 28 Leinster Pubs 30 Welcome to Munster 32 Killarney Races 34 Munster Pubs 35 Munster Restaurants 36 Explore Munster 37 Waterford Castle 38 Irish Marine Art at the Russell Gallery 41 The Aran Sweater Market 42 Lovely Leitrim Barge Holiday Boatel 43 Dingle Crystal 44 Welcome to Connaught 46 Galway Arts Festival 48 Connaught Restaurants 49 Connaught Pubs 50 Explore Connaught 51 Welcome To Ulster 52 The Gobbins 54 Explore Ulster 56 Ulster Pubs 57 Ulster Restaurants 58 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our July issue. Whether this is your first time visiting our shores, or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. There’s so much to do and see all year round in Ireland, especially in the summer months and July is full of exciting theatre, festivals, racing and so much more. The multi-award winning Once returns to the Olympia Theatre while Riverdance is once again making waves at the Gaiety. Lovers of horses will be spoiled for choice with the Dublin Horse Show and the Killarney July Racing Festival to enjoy. There’s loads to enjoy at the Galway Arts Festival and if you’re looking for a holiday with a difference why not take a trip on the Lovely Leitrim Floating Barge Boatel? Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte. Enjoy your stay.

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Mark O’Brien Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Aran Sheehan (aran@travelirelandmagazine.ie, 085 711 0826) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Patrick Donald Photography, Carl Mark O’Neill. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated

Round Tower, Glendalough

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and

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varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted

in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and

Stephen’s Green Park

Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!



Once

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inner of 8 Tony Awards, a Grammy for Best Musical Album and a Best Original Song Oscar for Falling Slowly, the phenomenally successful Once returns home once again for a summer run in the Olympia Theatre from 2 July until 27 August. This is the sixth production of Once since it opened on Broadway and it has since wowed crowds on the West End, as well as in South Korea, Melbourne and Toronto. But seeing this love letter to Dublin in its home city is a special experience, and that’s why over 50,000 people flocked to the Olympia last year, with over 35% of those attending coming from overseas. People from France, Germany, Italy, Spain, the UK and the USA, Armenia, Australia, Bermuda, Brazil, China, Costa Rica, Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore and South America all came to see the show in Dublin last year, ranging in ages from 6 months to 101 years old. Some of those people were lucky enough to see a marriage proposal on stage, while others witnessed the star of the film, Glen Hansard, take to the stage to perform The Auld Triangle with the cast following their performance. The musical is based on the 2007 film of the same name, which was written and directed by John Carney. It’s a simple, funny and life affirming tale about a guy and a girl who meet by chance and end up bringing out the best in each other through their shared love of music. It features music and lyrics by Glen Hansard and Markéta Irglová and a Tony award-winning book by Enda Walsh. The show has all the magical songs from the much-loved film, including the Oscar-winning Falling Slowly. Most of the cast from last year’s run will return to the Olympia, including Megan Riordan as Girl and Phelim Drew as Billy. They’ll be joined this year by Turloch Gunawardhana as Emcee and Sam Cieri as Guy. Sam is delighted to be joining such an incredible production. “Coming to Ireland has always been a dream of mine,” he says. “This show is a love letter to Dublin and to be a part of that is an overwhelming and humbling experience. After watching the film Once, I was inspired by Glen Hansard to busk in the New

York Subway. Now, just a few years later, to find myself on stage in Dublin performing in the role of Guy is a dream come true.” Attending the show will be a dream come true for many audience members too and they’re set to be enthralled by the stunning performances of the 12 actor-musicians who will sing, dance and play their hearts out on stage. Between them, the actors play 30 instruments during each performance, which gives Once the feeling of a gig and a play all rolled into one. Once started out as a small film, shot on a tiny budget around Dublin, that went on to become a global success. It’s heartwarming that this success has come from such humble beginnings and in some ways the success of the film and show mirror the growth that the two main characters experience during the course of the story. Seeing it back in Dublin where it all began will be an incredible experience and one that you don’t want to miss out on. Tickets are on sale now but make sure you book early as there is sure to be huge demand for this amazing Irish success story. https://oncemusical.ie/

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Riverdance

Composed by Bill Whelan, produced by Moya Doherty and directed by John McColgan, Riverdance has come a long way since it started out as an interval act during the 1994 Eurovision Song Contest. Since then, the show has become a worldwide phenomenon, playing over 11,000 shows, seen live by over 25 million people in over 467 venues, played to a global television audience of 3 billion people and selling over 3 million copies of a Grammy-winning CD. Now Riverdance returns to Dublin to celebrate its 21st birthday with a run in the Gaiety Theatre from 14 June until 28 August. Fusing Irish and international dance and music, Riverdance is a spectacular show that has left audiences the world over breathless and amazed. Now it returns to Ireland and what better place to see it than in the beautiful surroundings of the Gaiety Theatre? What’s more, on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays of the run, patrons can avail of a fantastic VIP experience. This VIP experience, which costs just €91, includes; premium seats in the Parterre, early access to the Gaiety to watch the on-stage rehearsal and warm up, a Q&A with members of the cast before the show, meet and greet with the Principal Dancers after the show, photo and autograph opportunities, a Riverdance souvenir programme and VIP laminate on arrival, private use of the Riverdance VIP lounge where you can watch a special history of Riverdance video and enjoy a pre-ordered complimentary drink during the interval. That’s an incredible offer and the perfect way to enjoy this amazing show. When Riverdance made its debut as a seven minute dance piece all those years ago, people were blown away but few could have predicted just how successful it would become. The full length stage show broke box office records during its premiere run in Dublin and it has continued to break records ever since. Now it’s coming home to celebrate its 21st birthday in style. You simply can’t afford to miss the global phenomenon that is Riverdance. www.riverdance.com

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GOURMET FRENCH CUISINE PRE-THEATRE & EARLY-BIRD DINING VEGETARIAN, COELIAC & GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS PRIVATE DINING ROOMS AVAILABLE

81 - 82 TALBOT STREET, DUBLIN 2 |TEL: 01 704 0126 |EMAIL: INFO@LEBONCRUBEEN.IE |WWW. LEBONCRUBEEN.IE

Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1


Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre

The Abbey Theatre The Wake

The Gaiety Theatre Riverdance

Camille O’Sullivan

Riverdance comes home once again. For over twenty years, this spectacular show has wowed audiences the world over and now it returns to Ireland, where it began its journey as an interval act during the 1994 Eurovision Song Contest. With its fusion of Irish and international music and dance, Riverdance continues to break records worldwide and must be seen on its return to these shores.

Renowned for her intense, dramatic interpretations of artists including Brel, Cave, Waits and Bowie, Camille O’Sullivan has built up a formidable reputation internationally and her two-night stay at the Mermaid Arts Centre is an experience not to be missed. 29 - 30 July Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also in the Mermaid Arts Centre this month; The Matchmaker (1 July), The Honey Drops Deadliest Dames (2 July), Dramtech - Alice (3 July), The Survivalist (4 July), Route 66 Big Band Live in Concert (8 July), I Was a Boy in Belson: A Talk by Holocaust Survivor Tomi Reichental (9 July), The Here After (11 July), Country (15 July), Ladies Sing The Blues (16 July), Disorder (18 July), Sheevawn - Les Misérables School Edition (20 - 23 July), A Bigger Splash (25 - 26 July) and The Railway Children (30 July).

Bord Gais Energy Theatre Billy Elliot

One of today’s most beloved stage shows comes to Dublin for the first time this year after a staggering eleven years on the West End. This heartwarming tale follows Billy as he struggles from the boxing ring to the ballet class and makes his dreams come true. Featuring extraordinary dance, a powerful story and an unforgettable score from Elton John. 26 July - 3 September Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this month; Inspirefest 2016 (30 June - 1 July), Bjorn Again (2 July) and Nathan Carter (22 July).

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It’s the 90s and Vera (Aisling O’Sullivan) has returned to the small Irish town where she’s from. She has inherited her family’s hotel but what are her plans? With the family at each other’s throats, Vera takes drastic action and locks herself in the hotel with her brotherin-law and her childhood sweetheart Finbar Reilly.

14 June - 4 September Tel: 0818 719 388.

The Olympia Theatre Once

22 June - 30 July Tel: 01 8872200 Also at The Abbey this month; Town Is Dead (2 June - 9 July) and Future Tense: Short Play Commissions 2016 (13 -14 July).

The Gate Theatre The Constant Wife

W. Somerset Maugham’s play offers a modern and amusing take on marriage and infidelity. Constance Middleton may be kind and rich, but her friends still feel sorry for her. This is because her husband is having an affair with her best friend. But rather than acknowledge the affair, she defends the pair and sets about turning local gossip to her own advantage. 16 June - 13 August Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042

National Concert Hall

The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland.

Having been seen by 50,000 people in Dublin last year, Once returns home again this year for what is sure to be another spectacular run. Featuring stunning performances from the cast of actor-musicians, a Tony Award-winning book from Enda Walsh and music by Glen Hansard and Markéta Irglová, Once in Dublin is an essential experience (see pages 6 & 7 for more details). 2 July - 27 August

Smock Alley Theatre The Spinning Heart

Based on Donal Ryan’s outstanding novel of the same name, The Spinning Heart tells the story of Bobby Mahon through the eyes of various colourful characters in a west Tipperary village that has been torn apart by the economic downturn. Everyone in the village loves Bobby - everyone, that is, except his Da. Only Bobby himself knows the dark thoughts that occupy his own mind, presaging the tragic events that are to come.

Highlights this month include; Movie Classics with the RTE NSO (1 July), Melody Gardot (4 July), Summer Piano Masterclass with Therese Fahy (4 - 5 July), RTE NSO Old-Time Sing-along (8 July), Avishai Cohen - Into The Silence Tour (13 July), Rufus Wainwright (20 July), Tommy Emmanuel (27 July) and An English Songbook (29 July).

11, 12, 13 and 16 July

www.nch.ie

www.smockalley.com Tel: 01 6770014

Also in Smock Alley this month; Tender Napalm (27 June - 9 July), No Borders (9 July), King Lear (10 - 12 July), En Masse (13 July), Insight #4 Taquin Experiments & Jessie Keenan Dance (18 July) and The Sadness of the Little Sparrow (25 - 30 July).



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lasnevin Cemetery Trust is proud of an array of new features and tours that have made Glasnevin Cemetery one of Dublin’s most popular tourist destinations. Winner of the Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and runner up in the Best Leisure Innovation at the recent Irish Tourism Industry Awards, Glasnevin Cemetery is now firmly established on the list of best things to do in Dublin and is listed on Tripadvisor at no. 2. Ann Kilcoyne, the Trust’s sales and marketing manager, describes how Glasnevin, in the city’s Northside at Finglas Road, is truly “both the guardian and storyteller for over 1.5 million people”. Glasnevin’s mission is one that strives to showcase and underpin the fascinating and diverse stories of those laid to rest in the cemetery. Beautiful to stroll around or engage on a guided tour, there is an enviable collection of statues and headstones from the simplest stones to the magnificently ornate, including that of the man whose crypt is housed within a spectacular round tower: Daniel O’Connell, ‘The Liberator’. Kilcoyne describes how those stories at Glasnevin range “from the ordinary to the truly extraordinary” and tell how “these people helped shape the Ireland of today. We want to share their stories and times with you through tours of the cemetery, a visit to the museum, exhibitions or through a genealogy search for your family history.”


The Trust is justifiably proud that the Glasnevin Museum is the world’s first cemetery museum. The natural beauty of the grounds merges with a who’s who of Irish history through which experienced, knowledgeable, and entertaining guides take visitors on a moving and memorable journey through the impeccably preserved Victorian cemetery. One can choose any number of themed tours – from one focusing on the men and women of the 1916 Easter Rising and featuring such unique touches as the Padraig Pearse Oration Re-enactment to others that provide personal connections to the final resting places of the men and women who have carved out Ireland’s past and present. Glasnevin is proud neighbour to another of Dublin’s Northside attractions - the Botanic Gardens, a spectacular 19thcentury site that visitors reach via the gate at the wall framing the far side of Glasnevin Cemetery, Prospect Square entrance. The Trust notes that “within the living collections at the National Botanic Gardens we have over 300 endangered species from around the world and 6 species already extinct in the wild. These are a vital resource, like a Noah’s Ark for the future.” Glasnevin and the Botanic Gardens have recently teamed up with a further 10 popular attractions, aptly named DNA – Dublin’s Northside Attractions, and have actively been jointly promoting their eclectic array of conveniently sited locations all offering first class visitor experiences. Other members of DNA include, Guinness Storehouse, Old Jameson Distillery, Epic

Ireland, Croke Park and the GPO – to name a few. In 1832, Daniel O’Connell opened Glasnevin as a place of repose where people “of all religions and none…could be buried with dignity and respect.” The museum’s interactive genealogy search tools allow visitors to find information about the cemetery’s 1.5 million people, whether famous or not. Glasnevin is open Monday to Sunday from 9am to 6pm with public and private tours daily starting at 9:30am. There is a regular bus service from O’Connell Street to Glasnevin, as well as Dublin Sightseeing Hop on Hop Off (Blue Route) every 30 minutes. The site’s restaurant, the Tower Café, offers a perfect spot for a varied menu now including an Irish Breakfast for early visitors. There is also a well-stocked Irish craft gift shop featuring some of the best in Irish design. (Glasnevin Cemetery Museum, Finglas Road, Dublin 11; tel. 01 882 6550; www.glasnevincemetery.ie; museum@glasnevintrust.ie). July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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The Ha’penny Bridge by

Pat Liddy

Photograph: Patrick Donald Photography www.patrickdonald.com

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ublin most iconic bridge over the River Liffey is the Ha’penny Bridge and in May this year it celebrated its 200th birthday! For thousands of years the only way to cross the River Liffey in the future Dublin area was to carefully pick one’s way over a designated ford at low tide. The site of this crossing, just upriver from today’s Fours Courts, gave us the Irish language name for Dublin; Baile Átha Cliath or the Town of the Hurdle Ford (a hurdle was a matting made from woven branches spread on the river bed to prevent people and animals slipping while walking across the muddy riverbed). Dublin’s first ever bridge, a large wooden affair, was built beside this ford by the Vikings around the 11th century. Over the next several hundred years a few more bridges were constructed as the River Liffey was gradually walled in and the city spread eastwards into its reclaimed former estuary. By the turn of the 19th century there were no fewer than six stone bridges connecting the north-side with the southside (by comparison there are now 18 bridges in the central city). Present-day O’Connell Bridge, then a much narrower structure named Carlisle Bridge, was the most easterly bridge and beyond that point ferries were the main means of transporting people across from one bank to the other. Upriver from the Carlisle Bridge, the next nearest bridge was quite a distance away so another ferry company, owned by one William Walsh, operated a service of seven small rowing

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boats between Liffey Street and the Bagnio Slip (near to Fownes Street), in Temple Bar. His boats were very suspect and Walsh was charged with replacing his leaky vessels or contribute to the building of a bridge. He opted for the latter. The benefit of the new link was also seen as an effective short-cut to the very popular Crow Street Theatre. Walsh was allowed a hundred-year agreement in which he could charge a halfpenny toll (the same price as the ticket on his ferries) to help recoup his outlay. Designed by John Windsor and costing over £3,894, the 43m wide bridge was manufactured in Coalbrookdale in Shropshire, the first centre of iron casting in Britain. The segments were transported across the Irish seas by sailing ships and assembled on-site. Now one of the oldest surviving cast-iron bridges in the world, it was originally named Wellington Bridge, after the Dublin-born duke who had defeated Napoleon at Waterloo. Since 1923 it has been officially called the Liffey Bridge but it is still more commonly known as the Halfpenny or Ha’penny Bridge. From the outset not everyone wanted to pay the toll so turnstiles were introduced to catch pedestrians and prevent horse riders from cheekily galloping across! Many citizens simply walked to further-away bridges to avoid payment. Nevertheless, the tolls that were paid defrayed the construction costs in around ten years. The bridge was the only pedestrian bridge on the Liffey


until the new Millennium bridge opened in 2000. The Ha’penny Bridge was then closed a year later for much-needed major repair and rehabilitation of severely rusted parts. It was reopened 2003 with its original off-white paint colour restored and changes made at each end to allow sufficient standing room for pedestrians waiting to cross the road. The quality of the work was recognised when it received a European Union Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra Award in 2003. Considered ugly by some, there were proposals in the early 20th century to demolish it and build in its stead a Florentinestyled art gallery spanning the river but this proposal came to nothing and the bridge survived. During the Easter Rebellion of 1916 the rebels pushed their way past the toll collectors without contributing the fee but a mere few weeks later the toll was abolished altogether. Romances, engagements and wedding parties have all been witnessed by the bridge down the years as was the making of many films such as Michael Collins, Far and Away, The Dead, Once, The Lonely Passion of Judith Hearne and many more. As you might expect, Leopold Bloom, the main character in James Joyce’s famed Ulysses, meanders over the bridge as part of his convoluted odyssey. So a visit to Dublin is not really complete until you join the 30,000 other people who daily cross the arched Ha’penny Bridge to soak in its unique history and character.


Dublin Horse Show

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restige and style, tradition and elegance, international show jumping and social festivities, there’s a combination for everyone at the annual Dublin Horse Show, which this year runs from Wednesday July 20 through to Sunday July 24. This year’s event has been brought forward from its traditional August date to accommodate riders who will be competing in the Olympics in August. One of the year’s sporting and social events of the year, the twofold nature of this majestic Show takes place in a purpose built venue, effortlessly intertwining glamour and colour with competition and excitement. Of course, there is a range of other activities to keep the whole family entertained, including the famous Dundrum Town Centre Ladies’ Day. Run by the RDS since 1868, the Dublin Horse Show has always been considered one of the top equestrian shows in the world, attracting thousands of visitors over the five day of competition. Originally taking place on what is now the gardens of Leinster House - the Irish parliament – the Show has long established itself as a must-see event for people all over Ireland and beyond. In a country often dubbed ‘Land of the Horse’, Irish people flock to the RDS in their droves for the week making it a great way to experience the colour and fun of all of Ireland in one central location. Making it even more special is the magnificent 42 acre surroundings that often look more like a film set than a sporting venue. “After 143 years the Dublin Horse Show continues to be Ireland’s leading equestrian event drawing up to 100,000 horse enthusiasts and visitors from home and overseas,” said Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport, Shane Ross TD at the launch of this year’s event. “The show provides a full event programme which is being extended every year, ensuring there is something new for everyone and 2016 is no exception. This year is an Olympic year and carries with it the added excitement of witnessing up close Irish and international riders who will be bidding for gold in Rio. I wish everyone taking part in the event every success and hope that those attending, whether from near or from far, enjoy the five 16

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days of sport, entertainment and Irish hospitality.” Those Olympic hopefuls will compete in 14 international events over the course of the five day event. Last year Ireland won the coveted Aga Khan Trophy as part of the Furusiyya FEI Nations’ Cup series, Antrimbased Egyptian rider Sameh el Dahan cleared 2.20m to win the Land Rover Puissance, while American Kent Farrington went one better to win the valuable Longines Grand Prix and competition is sure to be fierce again this year. Each day some of the best artisan craft-makers from all around Ireland present their wares at the hundreds of shopping stalls that cover everything from ceramics, to fashion, to horseware and much more besides. With food outlets scattered around the grounds, as well as dedicated restaurants and a food court, you’ll have plenty of places to catch your breath. Of course Dublin is renowned as a very hospitable city and the Dublin Horse Show is known even amongst Dubliners as a great place to go for the ‘craic’, which is in abundance for the five days. This year Californian Pat Parelli will host demonstrations at the show that are not to be missed. Parelli practices horsemanship and is in demand all over the world for his part cowboy, part horse whisperer skills. This will be his first time in Ireland and is sure to be a highlight. The Dundrum Town Centre Ladies’ Day is one of the premier style events of the summer, and will take place on Thursday 21 July, with a prize of a €10,000 shopping voucher up for grabs. Gents won’t be left out either, as there is also a ‘Best Dressed Man’ competition sponsored by Luis Copeland. Other prize categories include the ‘Great Lengths Most Creative Hat’ and ‘Longines: Elegance is an Attitude’. With top class international sport, a host of fun activities and the chance to win some incredible prizes, the Dublin Horse Show has everything you could ever want from a day out. So don your finery and head to the RDS this month and create some unique summer memories. www.dublinhorseshow.com


s destination for Dublin’

Exchequer Street FOOD HALL | RESTAURANT | WINE CELLAR | BALLROOM 11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 472 1010

People’s Park RESTAURANT | CAFÉ | DELI

Park Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co. Dublin | Tel: +353 1 230 3300

Email: ask@fallonandbyrne.com | Web: fallonandbyrne.com | Social: @FallonandByrne


Recommended Shopping Irish Linen House

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

Mitchell & Son

The Sweater Shop

Best prices on Irish Aran Sweaters Since 1986 The Sweater Shop is a family run business offering a large selection of quality Irish Aran sweaters at reasonable prices, as well as fine merino and cashmere for men, women and children. They also stock a range of caps, scarves and accessories to suit all budgets, making any of their Dublin, Kilkenny, or Galway shops the perfect place to shop for truly authentic Irish gifts. 30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 Abbeygate Street, Galway High Street, Kilkenny Tel: 01 6712292 www.sweatershop.com

ThunderSolas Leather Designs

Mitchell & Son have been trading in Dublin since the 19th century and are the only wine company in Ireland that is run by descendants of its founder. They offer high quality wine, champagne and spirits from all over the world, including their Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskey, as well as Riedel Glassware. They also run wine appreciation courses that teach you how to get the best from your bottle of wine and give you an understanding of the Irish wine market.

ThunderSolas provide handmade leather designs for men and women. Their products are made from high quality cow leather and include bags, belts, bracelets, wallets, coin holders and more. Their workshop is also in the shop so customers can see the leather skins that they have in stock and the staff are happy to make adjustments or design new pieces to order. Don’t forget to mention Travel Ireland to avail of a 10% discount. 2 Cow’s Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 8 01 6798713, www.thundersolas.com

CHQ, IFSC, Dublin 1, 01 612 5540 54 Glasthule Rd. Sandycove, Co. Dublin 01 230 2301 www.mitchellandson.com

Dipili Boutique

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 18

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Tights Department

Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks. 25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. 085 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Patrick Donald Photo Gallery

Situated at the heart of Dublin on Dawson Street, this is a ‘must visit’ if you want to get a quality souvenir of your time in Ireland! Patrick is well known for his black & white Irish landscape and Dublin Street photography. Gift sizes images are reasonably priced at €35. He will even ship them for you anywhere in the world free of charge! 8/9 Royal Hibernian Way Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 681 5225 www.patrickdonald.com

Designer Exchange

Dipili Boutique is an independently owned shop in the heart of Dublin. They offer an accessible selection of emerging designers from Ireland & around the globe. You’re sure to find a piece you can’t wait to take home. From fashion accessories to home decor promoting internationally lauded designers including Una Burke, Lili Radu, & Triwa, discover fresh talent. Tax Free shopping for non-EU residents. Shop in-store & online, worldwide shipping is available. 6 Ormond Quay Lower, Dublin 1, D01 W8W8 01 8729077, contact@dipiliboutique.com www.dipiliboutique.com

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands and Tax Free shopping to non EU residents. 53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd


Recommended Shopping Bagatt

Bagatt are serious about footwear. With over a hundred year’s experience, the shoes available at Bagatt are all manufactured in Italy and have been developed with craft and style. They stock an exciting range of quality, stylish mens and womens shoes that have remained in tune with fashion trends and meet the every need of the modern shopper. 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 01 6489110 www.bagatt.it

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier whiskey shop has become a mecca for whiskey lovers since it first opened in 2003. They have daily whiskey tastings and the knowledgeable and experienced staff are always on hand to offer their expert advice and guidance. If you’re travelling, the staff are happy to wrap your purchases in protective wrapping and can arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 - 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 9744 / 01 675 9768 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

The Donegal Shop The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

The Design House “The Design House” is a boutique & design Hub, in the city centre. It is based in a fabulous Georgian building; they offer cutting edge fashion, jewellery, bridal and a variety of crafts all in the one building. The hallways of their building also host an artist’s gallery. The list of designers who call “The Design house” home has grown steadily since they opened. They are also the creative home to several in-house designers, that work from 2 floors of shared studio space and professional fashion workrooms . The concept behind their enterprise is to bring designers, craftspeople and artists together under one roof and to offer the customer a wide array of high quality products, all at varied price points and services such as their bespoke service and café. 43 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6799283 www.thedesignhouse.ie

Fallon & Byrne

Cows Lane Designer Studio

Aran Sweater Market

Celebrating the long and fascinating history of Aran Knitwear, the Aran Sweater Market offers the perfect souvenir of your Irish Journey. With roots in Inis Mor, the very centre of where Aran craft first began, you can also find the brand in Dublin’s Grafton Street and Killarney, Co. Kerry, as well as its home on the Aran Islands. Shoppers can look forward to a unique shopping experience with a large range of Aran and Celtic inspired knitwear and gifts available. The Aran Sweater Market brand offers a large range of Aran and Celtic inspired knitwear for all the family. www.AranSweaterMarket.com

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands when you visit this store. They offer the finest quality, waterproof Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure from €425 as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. 46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 608 8608 www.franciscampelli.com

Article

Cows Lane Designer Studio is a colourful, fun retail space run by a group of independent designers and makers. With an eclectic mix of handcrafted, Irish designs including textiles, knitwear, jewellery, millinery, ceramics, prints, homewares and more, there is something for everyone. The perfect place to browse and be inspired!

In a heritage building in the heart of Dublin city, Fallon & Byrne houses a true mecca for food lovers. A unique food & wine offering, combined with a beautiful setting and magical atmosphere, has captured the hearts of locals and visitors alike. The food hall carries just about everything made, grown or otherwise perfected on the good earth. The freshest of fruit and vegetables, wellhung meat, mighty coffee, serious sandwiches, sinful cakes, as well as the best Irish artisan produce.

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Unit 2, Essex Street West, Old City, Temple Bar, Dublin 8. Tel: 01 679 8366 Info@clds.ie www.cowslanedesignerstudio.ie

!11-17 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 www.fallonandbyrne.com ask@fallonandbyrne.com +353 1 4721010

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Artisan Food and Drink Stonewell Cider Founded by husband and wife team Daniel & Geraldine Emerson, Stonewell was the first dedicated craft cider maker in the modern era in the Republic. Named after a medieval well that still exists on their farm in County Cork, Daniel & Geraldine have been making juice only craft ciders since 2010. The apples that go into the cider are drawn from the counties of Laois, Tipperary, Waterford & Kilkenny. Stonewell is widely available throughout Ireland and in select locations in France, Spain & Holland. The award winning ciders include 3 classic Irish styles and a specialist cider port, Tawny. Nohoval, Belgooly, Kinsale, Co. Cork 086 8691148 www.stonewellcider.comils.

Arbutus Artisan Bread

Declan Ryan was Ireland’s first Michelin Star chef. So when he decided to turn to bread making in1999, it was always bound to be special. Declan travelled to France and learned how to make bread from top French bakers. He brought these techniques back to Ireland and now produces over 2000 loaves of artisan bread per night, based on French techniques, style and equipment. They specialise in Sourdough and Yeast Breads and also produce French pastries, brioche and baguettes made using traditional French methods and free from any chemical additives. Unit 1B & 2B, Mayfield Industrial Estate, Cork 021 4505820 www.arbutusbread.com

Ummera Smoked Products

For almost 40 years, Ummera Smoked Products have been producing some of the finest smoked products available. Their award winning smoked salmon, chicken, duck and bacon are full of natural flavour and texture thanks to their process of blending their products with careful curing and gently smoking over oak fires, using only the finest, natural ingredients. Available at outlets nationwide, they also deliver internationally and all of their products are free from artificial preservatives. They welcome visitors to the smokehouse to experience, taste and smell their amazing food and discover how it’s made.

Georgia Smokehouse started many years ago when founder Roger McArthur began travelling through the Deep South searching for authentic barbeque food. Now Roger has brought authentic Southern style cooking to Ireland. They use only 100% Irish ingredients, mixing them to create truly honest-to-goodness BBQ Sauces, Rubs (dry seasonings), Marinades and Hot Sauce, as well as BBQ Pork Ribs, Pulled Pork and Chicken. All of their barbeque meat products are oak smoked and finished over a flaming grill in an authentic and traditional Southern Style for maximum flavour and quality. You can find them at the Tullamore Food Fayre every Saturday, so go on – Put Some South In Your Mouth. Main Street, Birr, Co. Offaly 087 711 2233 TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - July 2016

Crossogue Preserves, a Tipperary Award winning company, now in their 21st year, are a family run business that uses traditional cooking methods, combined with the highest quality ingredients that make their preserves a little luxury enjoyed by connoisseurs everywhere. Now with a range of over 85 different varieties, all free from artificial colourings, preservatives and flavourings, Crossogue Preserves are high quality gluten free and full flavoured with a wide range including jams, marmalades, jellies, curds, chutneys and relishes, of which a number have won various Awards. The most recent introduction to the range of preserves is the Sugar Free Spreads, a healthier range of full flavoured fruity jams and marmalades made from natural ingredients. Their mission is simple – to produce only superior, additive free, gourmet foods and this philosophy is conveyed right down to the details of the labels used on their products, which are still put on by hand. Crossogue Preserves remains a family owned operation with a team dedicated to quality, efficiency and above all, responding to the needs of the consumer. Ballycahill, Thurles, Co. Tipperary 0504 54416 www.crossoguepreserves.com

The Breadski Brothers

Inchybridge , Timoleague, Co. Cork Loc8Code: WND-86-6WN Eircode: P72 A265 023 8846644 www.ummera.com

Georgia Smokehouse

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Crossogue Preserves

The Breadski Brothers are a dynamic trio, originally from Poland and now baking up a storm in Castlebar, Co. Mayo. These three brothers are passionate about real bread, breadmaking and ‘breaducation’. Well established within the Polish market in Ireland, they have recently begun baking for Irish taste buds and the results are astounding. Their healthy, additive-free bread range includes the award winning Rye Bread with Cranberries; one of their two slow rise sourdough breads. The Breadski Brothers also make a range of more than 40 cakes. Products are available in over 50 SuperValus, Corrib Oil stores, and more than 250 Polish stores nationwide. Castlebar, Co. Mayo 01 960 9393, www.mmmfamilybakery.ie, www.thatbread.ie www.facebook.com/TheBreadskiBrothers


Ardkeen Quality Food Store Ardkeen Quality Food Store are specialists in Ireland’s artisan & locally produced foods which they can now deliver straight to your door! Founded in 1967 by Robert & Pamela Jephson, as a small family run store and now run by their sons, Ardkeen have always done retail differently, they view supplier relationships as a collaboration, they want small batch production to thrive: after all it’s these unique and honest foods which make the store so distinctively different. Approaching 50 years of putting the food and its producer centre stage and treating the makers with the respect their craft deserves, the store now has a range of Irish artisan food which surpasses all competition in terms of quality and provenance. ardkeen.com have a product listing of over 1100 items, and growing. You will find Ummera and Burren Smokehouse products, Irish craft beers and spirits, Gubbeen Farmhouse produce, award winning preserves and much more. Ardkeen Quality Food Store was recently recognised by EuroToque Ireland for their ‘outstanding contribution to Irish food’ and are also listed in the prestigious McKenna’s Ireland Guides as well as recipients of many accolades including The Irish Times Best Shop and listed among Irish Independent’s Best Artisan Food Stores.

, Carl Mark O Neill

A Day in the Life of a Food Explorer By Carl Mark O’Neill

Dunmore Road, Waterford X91 HP9W 051 874620 www.ardkeen.com Facebook: @ArdkeenQualityFoodStore Twitter: @ArdkeenQFS

The Humble Bee

Named as one of the 10 Best Foods to Watch Out For 2016 by the Irish Food Guide, Bee Cakes produce delicious cakes made from a 100 year old secret European recipe. Free from additives, colours and preservatives, they currently produce two cakes - the Honey Cake with Hazelnuts, a sponge cake layered with Irish honey and caramel filling, decorated with Irish artisan dark chocolate and hazelnuts; and the Cocoa Honey Cake, a cocoa sponge cake layered with Irish honey honey and milk coconut filling, decorated with white Irish artisan chocolate. Ferbane Food Campus, Ballycumber Road, Ferbane, Co.Offaly. 085 832 86 26/ 01 209 19 21 www.honeycake.ie Info@honeycake.ie FB-honeycake.ie TW- @IrishBeeCakes FB-honeycake.ie TW- @IrishBeeCakes

I

’ve been lucky enough to meet food producers from all over the country and photograph their products for Ireland’s Table Produce. Ireland has so many great food producers in every county and I was lucky enough to meet some of them when I visited The Happy Pear in Wicklow. The Happy Pear offer their own range of healthy, natural food, as well as running their own cafe in Greystones, Co. Wicklow. It was back in August 2011 when I met Darragh Flynn from The Happy Pear and he took me not only to see his produce but also to meet with two other Wicklow producers - Gran Clarke’s Irish Bakery and Janet’s Country Fayre. What a day that was! It was great to meet all of these wonderful producers, Stephen and David Flynn from The Happy Pear, David and Sabrina Cosgrove from Gran Clarke’s and Janet Drew from Janet’s Country Fayre, and photograph their products and it was even better getting to taste them afterwards. I can heartily recommend the products from all three companies and can even share a favourite recipe of mine that combines the three - it’s, quick, easy and delicious. Take some of Gran Clarke’s mouth watering brown soda bread and simply top with some magnificent beetroot blush from Janet’s Food Fayre, along with some alfalfa sprouts from The Happy Pear. It’s so tasty and makes for the perfect snack. All products are available in Morton’s and selected Super Valu’s.

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Explore Leinster

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin

Revolution 1916 at The Ambassador Event Centre

The Old Jameson Distillery Experience the Old Jameson Distillery whiskey tour and let expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson Irish Whiskey. At the end of the tour, all visitors are rewarded with a complimentary dram of whiskey at the Jameson Bar and partake in a comparison whiskey tasting session where you will learn how to tell the differences between Scotch, Irish, and American whiskey. The tour finishes at the exclusive gift store where people may choose to buy a personalised bottle or a memento of their visit. Dublin is a city famous for its whiskey and a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery is essential for any person looking to explore, sightsee or even just enjoy themselves and have a drink. Open Daily from 9am-6pm Tel: 01 8072348/ 2316

If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes. The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages. In this centenary year of the Easter Rising of 1916 there are exciting tours dedicated to this momentous event, a pivotal episode in Irish history which eventually led to Irish Independence in 1922 after 750 years of British rule. Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 01 832 9406.

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular visitor attractions. Glasnevin Museum proudly tells the story of modern Ireland through interactive exhibitions, re-enactments, lectures and daily walking tours. Visitors learn about the harsh realities of life in Dublin, hear about gravediggers and grave robbers, cholera epidemics, and world wars. A visit inside Daniel O’Connell’s Celtic Romantic designed crypt and iconic tower, the tallest in Ireland, forms part of the tour. There is also a genealogy research area, where extensive online records can be accessed. The museum shop stocks a terrific collection of Irish crafts, jewellery, mementos, historical books, and other interesting gift items. www.glasnevintrust.ie 22

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - July 2016

This original and authentic exhibition will give a fascinating insight into the 1916 Rising and coincides with the Centenary Celebrations that will be taking place all over the country. The exhibition features the largest private collection of 1916 artefacts, which have been kindly donated by the Irish Volunteers Commemorative Organisation. There will be over 500 items on display, including an original 1916 Proclamation, uniforms from the Irish Volunteers, Cumann na mBan and na Fianna, 1916 weapons including Howth Mausers, German Lugers, a Peter the Painter C96 machine pistol favoured by Patrick Pearse, French Bayonets and even the actual door handle of the G.P.O. from 1916. www.ambassadordublin.com

Loughcrew Estate

Powerscourt House and Gardens Beautiful Powerscourt House and Gardens was recently voted No.3 in the World’s Top Ten Gardens by National Geographic and is one of the must-see tourist attractions in Ireland. Set in the wild Wicklow countryside, overlooking the Sugarloaf Mountain, Powerscourt enjoys a breath-taking panorama. The Gardens stretch over 47 acres and offer visitors a sublime blend of formal gardens, sweeping terraces, statues and ornamental lakes, secret hollows and rambling walks. Voted in the Top Ten Houses in the World by Lonely Planet, Powerscourt House features a range of artisan stores and the Avoca Terrace Café. Also located on Powerscourt Estate are two championship Golf Courses, Ireland’s Highest Waterfall and the Powerscourt Hotel. W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000

Whether you’re up for adventure, love history or just fancy a walk through some tranquil gardens, Loughcrew has something for you. Wander through the gardens and enjoy the beautiful sculptures of Ann Hughes, or visit their boutique coffee shop. Those feeling more adventurous can visit the Adventure Centre (which has been rated as the number 1 Adventure Centre in Ireland on Trip Advisor) and have a go on their famous zipline, which is open in July and August. Loughcrew Estate Loughcrew, Oldcastle, Co Meath. www.loughcrew.com


Visit the Book Of Kells in Trinity College and then take the two minute walk to visit us on Dawson Street. Designer Exchange Ltd, 53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2

Ireland’s Only Dedicated Pre Loved and Authentic Designer Handbag And Accessory Store! Come in and browse our huge selection of designer brands and incredible savings!

Tax Free Shopping available to Non EU Residents

Need Directions? Call us on 01 6128080 e: info@designerexchange.ie www.designerexchange.ie

Jam Art Factory N

amed as one of the Irish Times Top 50 Best Shops for the past four years, the Jam Art Factory has gone from strength to strength since they opened their first store back in 2011. This independent gallery and design shop showcases smart, contemporary Irish art from the best up and coming Irish artists. Their first store opened on Patrick Street in the Liberties area of Dublin in 2011. This shop is full of the work of handpicked Irish artists, whose fresh concepts in print, using traditional and contemporary techniques, are a joy to behold. You can also find ceramics, textiles, jewellery, street art and so much more, making the Jam Art Factory the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. Due to the success of the Patrick Street store, a second store was opened in Crown Alley, Temple Bar in 2013 and this shop has also been a great success, with tourists flocking to pick up a unique piece of Ireland and earning the stores five star ratings on Trip Advisor. “They showcase Irish designs and prints and always have a great selection in store,” said Trip Advisor user Eireboi from San Francisco of the Temple Bar store. “It’s a little gem in the middle of Temple Bar and always fun to visit when we are in Dublin. Had made many purchases

We stock all designer brands from DKNY to Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermes! Winner of 98FM’s be st shop in Du blin All items are authentic for 2016 and certified by our in house professionals.

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK!

and my last purchase I picked up the wrong item and took it home with me 5000 miles away, called them and they said just bring it back in for an exchange the next time I’m visiting home and they will take care of it and that they sure did. Excellent service and staff are super friendly, make sure you check out this cool little place folks.” “I only wish I’d had a little more space in my luggage,” said user Kapate from Portland, Oregon, going to to say that the Jam Art Factory offers: “an opportunity to buy a little piece of independent Irish art to take home.” Even if you don’t have enough space in your luggage, Jam Art Factory ship worldwide so you can order as much as you want and have it delivered to you wherever you live. Their website www.jamartfactory. com covers all that they have to offer, while their other website www. jamartprints.com deals specifically with prints from a range of fantastic Irish artists. July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Mykonos Taverna

Authentic Greek food in the heart of Dublin. Mykonos Taverna offers traditional Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Kleftiko and Souvlaki at incredibly good prices, all made from the freshest of ingredients from land and sea. The staff are friendly and attentive and always on hand to cater to your every need, all you have to do is relax and enjoy your food! Make sure you try their delicious homemade ice cream too, which is made on the premises. The perfect way to round off a fantastic Greek meal. 76 Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 561 3745

Restaurant FortyOne

Frite Haus

Frite Haus offer a unique artisan fast food experience with care and attention given to every aspect of the menu. A relaxed Belgian style ‘Chip Shop’ restaurant, Frite Haus serve authentic Belgian fries with a range of craft sauces and delicious Jane Russell sausages. Jane Russell sausages use only prime fresh cuts of Irish pork, free from preservatives so you know that you are getting the finest, freshest meat. They also serve a fantastic range of craft beers, including delicious Belgian Trappist Brewery beers. Frite Haus is the only choice for a fine dining experience at very reasonable prices. 87 Camden Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 475 8948 www.frite-haus.com

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

Camden Kitchen

41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie 24

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Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Café Topolis

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years. This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin.

Corfu Greek Restaurant

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality. 81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 1026 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com


Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Pacino’s

Ideally situated on Suffolk Street, just off Grafton Street and opposite Trinity College, Pacino’s offers authentic Italian food in an old world vibe of stylish brickwork, wooden floors and soft lighting. The restaurant offers authentic, rustic Italian cooking with ingredients sourced from only the best local butchers, fishmongers and artisan producers. 18 Suffolk Street Dublin 2 01 677 5651 www.pacinos.ie

Zaragoza

The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines. Open Mon-Sun 12noon - Midnight (last orders) 18 William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 679 4020 www.zaragozadublin.com

The Larder Restaurant & Brewhouse

Asador

La Resérve Brasserie

La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you. La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 496 8825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie

Kafka Restaurant An oasis of quality, The Larder offer excellent Brunch, Lunch and Evening menus made from the highest quality, locally sourced ingredients. These dishes are finished off with herbs grown in their own walled garden and complimented by their range of own brand beers. The meal can then be topped off with their own brand coffee; Dublin Roaster. ‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

8 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 633 3581 info@thelarder.ie www.thelarder.ie

Marcel’s Restaurant

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 660 2367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Zaytoon

Chez Max

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin! Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is a smart garden at restaurant level as well as a sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are wellheated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer, diners flock to Chez Max, Baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

Thornton’s Restaurant

Peploe’s

133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8899

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

Salamanca

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Taco Taco

This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them. Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. Tel: 01 478 7008

The Blind Pig

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

Perfect for brunch or a casual evening meal, Taco Taco is sure to get your taste buds tingling. They have a range of specials on offer, such as Chargrilled Jerk Chicken for two with a range of sides for €29.95 on Sunday nights and Super Nacho Happy Hour from 5pm to 6.30pm from Monday to Sunday. While you’re there, make sure you sample some of their amazing cocktails, such as Whiskey Smash, Brunch Sour or Mojito. 14 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 083 449 9584 www.tacotacodublin.com

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Want to know where to find the best cocktails in Dublin? We know the place but you have to keep it secret. The brainchild of award winning mixologist Paul Lambert and named after the police who turned a blind eye to speakeasies in the prohibition era in the US, The Blind Pig is Dublin’s best kept secret and the perfect place to go to enjoy the finest cocktails and the best food that Dublin has to offer. Originally a pop-up speakeasy bar, The Blind Pig is now in permanent residence and has developed a loyal fanbase thanks to the unique experience that this venue offers. So how do you find them? Give them a call, book through their website, and await further instructions.

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events.

Perfect A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing..

Tel: 085 874 7901 www.theblindpig.ie reservations@theblindpig.ie

3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 425 4052

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - July 2016


BOOK NOW

TICKET LINE: 0818 719 300 W W W. D U B L I N H O R S E S H O W. C O M #DUBLINHORSESHOW


Recommended Pubs in Leinster music. The welcoming staff offer a range of premium Irish whiskeys and if whiskey isn’t your thing then you have another great option. Dice Bar brew their own beers; the delicious Revolution Red and Augustine With so much choice and a relaxed setting, Dice Bar warrants many return visits. Open from 3pm daily.

57 The Headline

Situated only a short walk from St Patrick’s Cathedral and Teeling Whiskey Distillery, 57 The Headline is the ideal spot to sample the best of Irish Craft Beers and Whiskeys. With 24 taps dedicated to the best of Irish and International beers, you won’t be stuck for choice. They offer Beer tasting trays from 3 to 9 choices and 5 Whiskey trays. They also serve the best bar food in Dublin 8 and you won’t be paying city centre prices. Visit their website for all products, opening times and more. Clanbrassil St. Lower, Dublin 8 Tel: 01 532 0279 www.57theheadline.ie

93-94 Benburb Street Tel: 01 633 3936 www.thatsitdublin.com

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If

ǧ you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some ĆĞnj ÄŽÄ’ÄŠ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ Í•Í– ēĔĔē of theinto best in aDublin Sinboys É isand strolling themusicians celt is like taking trip to thethen west, play chailĂ­nĂ­ payfor attention andto dance definitely the place be.along the way to the early light

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnån O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Tickets available at the bar for ₏18. 44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

the celt

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Doheny & Nesbitt’s

14 -15 Ormond Quay ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜ Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037

One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier.

Tap House

Be prepared to enter into the world of true beer artistry, where friendly knowledgeable staff will guide you to that perfect beverage, served in the especially designed Munique glass, which optimises the aroma, retaining carbonation and cooling until the last drop. With possibly finest bar food and cocktails in town, your whole party will be catered for in this wonderfully unique establishment. 60 Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 491 3436. www.taphouse.ie

5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 2945

The Celt

Dice Bar

Situated on the corner of Benburb Street and Queen Street, near Smithfield Square, at Dice Bar they strive for three things – great drinks, great staff and great 28

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - July 2016

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

Grogan’s

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320



Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. Reginald’s Tower

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. 30

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - July 2016

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’

Blarney Castle

and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.


POWERSCOURT GARDENS Voted No.3 Garden in the World – National Geographic

OOTB

Out of the Blue

Seafood

Japanese Gardens – Pepperpot Tower – Pets’ Cemetery Terrace Café – Gift Shop – Garden Centre

Dinner daily from 5.30pm and Sunday Lunch Reservations +353-6691-50811 www.outoftheblue.ie Dingle

W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000 Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, County Wicklow, Ireland

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

Guided Factory Tours Daily Waterford Brand & Visitor Experience

On social media:

Book online at www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com and receive a 10% discount on adult tickets

www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000


Killarney

July I

reland’s Most Scenic Racecourse is the place to be this month for the Killarney July Racing Festival. The festival offers four days of top class racing from 11 - 14 July in the beautiful Co. Kerry town. The racecourse is situated in Killarney town and looks out on to the magnificent scenery of Killarney National Park, making it the perfect venue for racegoers to enjoy some thrilling summer racing. Killarney has a long, established history of racing, with the first race recorded there in 1822. The present course opened in 1936 and remains the home of racing in Killarney. The Killarney July Racing Festival offers a mix of National Hunt and Flat Racing. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday are evening meetings, while Thursday is an afternoon meeting and includes Ladies Day. The family evening opens the festival on Monday, 11 July. This will include a dedicated children’s entertainment area with Bouncy Castles, Face Painting, Children’s Disco and lots more to entertain kids of all ages. Tuesday features some cracking National Hunt and Flat Racing, while Wednesday will see the Racecourse playing host to some of the Rose of Tralee contestants and their escorts. This will be followed on Thursday by the highlight of the festival - the Dawn Milk Ladies Day. This event always attracts a capacity crowd and there are some amazing luxury prizes on offer for the Queen of Fashion and the Most Stylish Hat competitions, including a specially commissioned crystal vase for both winners. But the biggest prize of all is the glory of being the winner of one of the most the prestigious Ladies Days in the racing calendar. So start planning those outfits and start studying the form and maybe you can get lucky and win big this month at the Killarney July Racing Festival. www.killarneyraces.ie

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - July 2016

Racing Festival


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Recommended Pubs in Munster Dick Mack’s

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Jack Meades (under the bridge)

An Brog

O’Neill’s Bar

An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.

Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork Tel: 021 427 0074

Buckley’s Bar

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration. The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. Tel: 064 663 1037

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Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.

O’Neill’s Bar/Mol’s Restaurant is located at the top of the town of Tramore. It’s one of the original family owned and run, bar & restaurants in Tramore. With its long standing tradition in sport it’s no wonder this bar is the main sports bar in the town. Since its renovation in 2015 the bar has gone from strength to strength with now one of the most comfortable and accommodating smoking rooms in the country.

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Live music every Thursday to Sunday ensures that your visit will be one you won’t forget. They also have a top class restaurant adjacent to the bar which serves excellent cuisine hosting a range of dishes sourced locally with the best Waterford has to offer

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.

O’Neills Bar, Summerhill, Tramore, Co.Waterford

3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)


Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Strand Inn

fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

The Smuggler’s Inn

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

The Munster Room Restaurant

The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort was awarded 2AA Rosettes in 2001 and currently continues this elite standard further confirmed with multiple awards and its review in the 2015 Michelin Guide. With its warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls, ornate ceiling, and further complemented by an extensive wine cellar and exciting seasonal menus it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Using the finest local produce, gifted head chef Michael Thomas and his culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience. Waterford Castle, The Island, Co. Waterford Tel: 051 878203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com/munsterroom-restaurant

Out of the Blue

They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Copper Hen

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

The Cliff Restaurant The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced. Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on. Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie

The Cliff Restaurant is a new addition to The Strand Inn. The Cliff is a relaxed, casual affair serving brunch from 1pm, and is open for food until 9pm. The Cliff contains a bar and two dining rooms. Downstairs is kid friendly, while upstairs is kid free making it the perfect place for both a family occasion or an evening meal with friends. The menu is wide ranging and includes pizzas, pastas, great salads and burgers, as well as delicious steaks. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford Tel: 051 383 839 July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Munster

Cliffs of Moher

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Jameson Experience, Midleton Co.Cork

The Hunt Museum

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Tours run all day, last tour 16.30pm. Adult rate is €15.00 and save 10% on adult admission by booking in advance online. bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com 36

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The Ring of Kerry (Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Midleton Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney river in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience. The old distillery buildings have been restored to their original splendor, as they looked in 1805 when whiskey was first produced on this site. Each tour culminates in the Jameson Bar with a complimentary glass of Jameson and a chance to become a “Qualified Irish Whiskey Taster”. Visitors can also enjoy a delicious lunch in the Malt House Restaurant or browse the Distillery shop, where you will find exclusive Jameson gifts.

Ring of Kerry

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252


Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort Past and present come together at Waterford Castle, where a rich and robust history blends seamlessly with contemporary comfort and luxury to make it a key component of Ireland’s Ancient East Originally erected as a single stone tower during medieval times, Waterford Castle has evolved into an extraordinary internationally renowned destination, with magnificent halls and rooms, each ordained with fine art, period furniture and fixtures. Unique details can be found at every angle on the Castle structure from ornate original plaster ceilings to Elizabethan stone fireplaces. Located on a private island in the River Suir, the centuries-old site sits just downstream from its namesake city, the oldest City on the Emerald Isle. As both a longstanding strategic and scenic locale, the 310-acre island only a two-minute private car ferry ride from the mainland has seen more than its fair share of inhabitants over time. Originally settled by monks from the sixth to the eighth century, the island was taken and guarded by Danes during the Viking era. A long line of AngloNorman Fitzgeralds - owned and occupied the spot for another eight centuries. Waterford Castle transformation into a luxurious resort in the late 1980’s opening its vast and lush grounds to both local residents and international visitors alike. Since March of 2015 the new proprietor an Irish man has taken the facility to new levels, implementing further and more detailed renovations. “This has been an exceptional project, in that all of our additions and refurbishments aim to showcase the castle’s unique personality,” says spokesperson Walsh. “Our team’s enthusiasm, professionalism and genuine love of the resort have made

this a project from the heart.” Recent renovations have included over €100,000 worth of upgrades to the Des Smyth-designed, 18-hole championship golf course. A new short-game area with a state of the art golf performance centre offering custom fittings and much more.

Today, guests can choose to stay either inside the original castle’s 19 individual decorated luxurious bedrooms or in one of the 45 selfcatering family friendly Resort’s lodges located a short walk from the Castle on the 310 acre Island.

Once guests are done marveling at the enchanting surroundings, they are welcome to enjoy an assortment of engaging activities. In addition to golf, the resort offers tennis, clay pigeon shooting, falconry, croquet, playground and kid’s club (on selected dates). The new owner has expanded the nature walking and biking trails to allow access to the Island Lighthouse. The castle grounds are also prime territory for nature enthusiasts, the island boasts a vast array of wildlife from the resident deer, fox, badgers, hare, pheasants, peacocks, a siege of herons, swans, ducks and many other wildlife, it is a bird watcher’s paradise. A day on the grounds can be complemented with a fine dining experience at the island Resort’s Munster Room Restaurant as critically acclaimed in the 2015 Michelin Guide and AA Rosette accredited, with its warm ambience, oak paneled walls and extensive wine cellar makes it the perfect dining option. The award winning culinary team use only the finest local produce and create a truly memorable fine dining experience.

Offering traditional vintage afternoon tea, seasonal lunch and dinner menus with private dining options. With the stunning setting and the famous Irish homespun hospitality, more and more couples are keen to get married on the private island resort. “Our mandate is to be the premier wedding venue in Ireland,” notes Walsh. “Most of our wedding couples are American and have Irish heritage. We also have many Australian and Canadian couples.” The locale is a popular nuptial destination for couples from across both the Emerald Isle and Europe as well. Renovations will continue with the building of an Island Spa. While upgrades carry on, Waterford Castle retains its old-world charm and integrity. As it was when the monks first settled the island 1400 years ago, guests and visitors are invited to “leave your worries at the shore.” Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort is a truly unique property situated minutes from Waterford City, 90 minutes from Dublin. Crossing on the private car ferry sets the mood for a truly magical experience. This 310 acre Island boasts the only Island Castle often described as a fairytale venue with19 bedrooms, and the award winning Munster Room restaurant. The Resort’s activities range from an 18 hole championship golf course, clay shooting , croquet, tennis, trails, hawk walks and playground. The 45 self-catering modern lodges (sleep six) and are perfect for a family vacations. Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort |The Island | Waterford | Ireland Castle Tel: +353 (0) 51 878 203 Website: www.waterfordcastleresort.com Follow us: www.facebook.com/WaterfordCastle/ www.twitter.com/waterfordcastle www.instagram.com/waterford_castle/

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“Sea Fever”

Introducing the Wild Atlantic Art Group. An exhibition of Irish Marine Art at the Russell Gallery, Co. Clare. Opening 2nd July 2016.

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reland’s famous Wild Atlantic Way is a Marine Artist’s paradise, offering an almost limitless variety of coastal scenery and ocean drama. Travel from the rugged peninsulas of Cork and Kerry, to the Cliffs of County Clare; from the wind-stripped headlands of Connemara to the unspoiled, golden beaches and rocky coves of Donegal. And then there is the ocean. Majestic waves, driven before the westerly winds, travel over 3,500 miles from America and Canada to crash against the western shores of Ireland. And the weather! Don’t expect unbroken sunshine and blue skies in Ireland. Here the weather has its own distinctive, infinitely varied, character. Summer sunshine, broken by drifting clouds, paints the landscape with a wild array of light, shade and colour. And despite what you might have heard, it’s not all green, but all the colours of the spectrum – and then some! It seems surprising, given the importance of the sea in the history and culture of Ireland, that there has never been a strong emphasis on Marine painting in Irish Art. Marine Art Ireland was founded by artist Paul Douglas in 2013 to promote the craft of painting the sea, and has been generating strong interest from Irish and International artists since its launch. In 2015 a group of participating artists came together to form the Wild Atlantic Art Group.

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This summer 10 artists from the group are holding an inaugural exhibition at the Russell Gallery; New Quay; County Clare, running for four weeks from 2nd July. The gallery is ideally situated on the North Clare leg of the Wild Atlantic Way. Why not visit the exhibition and experience the drama and beauty of the wild Atlantic Ocean.

For information contact: Stefania Russell 065 7078185 The Russell Gallery; New Quay; Burren; Co. Clare Gallery Website: www.russellgallery.net Marine Art Ireland: www.marineartireland.com



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The Aran Sweater Market W

ith stores in Killarney, Shannon Airport and on Dublin’s Grafton Street, as well as its original flagship store on the Aran Islands, the Aran Sweater Market celebrates the long and fascinating heritage of Aran knitwear. The company has grown from being a cornerstone of the small island community of Inis Mor to become a global exporter of authentic Aran knitwear thanks to their passion for craft and keen eye for quality. Online through their website www. AranSweaterMarket.com the brand continues to grow internationally and offers the widest selection of Irish made Aran and Celtic inspired knitwear. Their success is testament to the enduring global popularity of Aran knitwear, which has a long and fascinating history. Stories of the origins of the Aran sweater date back centuries and link back to the original Fishermen of Aran, who wore the original sweaters, made of sheep’s wool, to protect themselves against the often harsh conditions of the wild Atlantic. The garment has remained enduringly popular ever since and, even today, the catwalk and high street are awash with variations of the sweater. The Aran Sweater Market aim to give people an appreciation of the sweater’s origins, as well as the unique culture of the islands that gave the sweater its name.

It is almost impossible to separate the Aran Islands from the Aran Sweater as their histories are so entwined. The Aran Sweater is the perfect, enduring souvenir of a trip to Ireland but, while you’re here, a trip to take in the rugged beauty of the Aran Islands is also a must. Colm MacCarthy, Director of the Aran Sweater Market, agrees. “For those who have been, they will understand and for those who have yet to experience it, they are the ones I truly envy as they have something to really look

forward to,” he says. “The Aran Islands contains all the beauty of Irish heritage, that sense of a close-knit community, the sound of our own language, a grá (love) for the old Irish stories and songs, and above all a fierce will to survive on an island that was never supposed to be inhabited. The Aran Sweater is a symbolism of all this and as a brand we are proud to be a part of such culture and see it as our duty to keep it alive where possible in the future. For us this is the story of Aran.” “People come to us because they have an appreciation for quality and a desire for something authentic that can’t be replicated,” said Laura MacSweeny, Brand Manager of the Aran Sweater Market, commenting on the enduring appeal of the brand. “They also find a deep sense of connection to the country of Ireland and see our garments as reminders of their ancestry, or their time spent here. In an industry awash with fads, trends and ‘you’re either in or you’re out’ mentality, the Aran Sweater represents something that is precious and unique, a special memoir rather than an illustrious trend.” It’s an ancient story, yet the tale is far from over as the Aran Sweater Market continue to grow and work with the best Irish designers and suppliers to bring the beauty of authentic Aran knitwear to a global audience. www.AranSweaterMarket.com July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Lovely Leitrim Barge Holiday Boatel M

ary McInerney and Jorn Bjerknes have spent the last seven years living on the Shannon on their barge Froya. Mary is a qualified chef, who previously ran a successful business catering for film and TV shows, such as Fáilte Towers and Killinascully, while Jorn is a skipper, singer-songwriter, chef, PADI diver and all round sportsman. With such a diverse range of skills to draw on, the couple wanted to come up with a business that utilised these skills while providing a unique service that is not available anywhere else in Ireland. What they’ve come up with is the Lovely Leitrim Barge Holiday Boatel, a luxury two bedroom barge that can host up to four people at a time. The recently launched Lovely Leitrim is a truly novel concept that offers guests a range of activities - and, as you’re on a boat, you don’t have to stay in a fixed place during your stay. “We try to tailor to everybody’s needs,” says Mary. “If people just tell us what they want, we’ll do it.” So if you fancy going fishing, a leisurely cruise down the Shannon, go for a round of golf, or anything else you can think of, Mary and Jorn are happy to cater to what

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is required. They will also be on hand to cook all of your meals and again, with a wide range of dishes available. “We both love food, so we make really interesting dishes,” says Mary. “The menu changes constantly.” Once dinner is finished, Mary and Jorn will return to their own barge to give the guests some space and privacy, although they will never be too far away if there’s anything you require in the evening. The Lovely Leitrim itself is full of unique artwork and its versatile design means that it can be used for a whole host of different functions. “The main cabin is like a stage,” says Mary. “It can be changed around very easily from hotel mode into a tapas wine bar very quickly.” Mary and Jorn are already planning to bring it to places as a pop-up

wine bar and it can be booked for a range of different functions as well. The stunning interior has been built by Master Craftsman Charlie Perpoil, who has done a wonderful job. He has since been commissioned by a client in Belgium to build a bed similar to Marie Antoinette. “It’s a wonderful lifestyle, I absolutely love it,” Mary says of barge living. Now she wants to give people their own glimpse into that wonderful lifestyle by inviting them to come and stay on the Lovely Leitrim for an unforgettable bespoke holiday that you won’t find anywhere else. You can book online at www.bargeholidayboatel.ie and the price includes all meals, catering, crew, housekeeping and wine with evening meals.


Dingle Crystal

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rom humble beginnings, Dingle Crystal have established themselves on the world stage thanks to their commitment to producing mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal. In an era when many other brands have gone down the wholesale route, this family-run company still proudly produce unique, hand crafted pieces that can be found in the collections of the President of Ireland and Bono to name but two. With every piece signed and dated, it’s not hard to see why Dingle Crystal’s work would be appealing to those visiting the country, looking for an exclusive souvenir of their trip to Ireland. They also cater to those living abroad, shipping worldwide. Their fantastic work in this field was recently recognised at the SME Awards 2016, where they won the award for Best Online Exporter. If you do visit Dingle then a trip to the Dingle Crystal store is a must. While there you can take a tour of their workshop. There you will find company founder Sean Daly hard at work. This is a wonderful opportunity

to observe a master craftsman and see how Dingle Crystal’s wonderful designs are created. They offer group demonstrations that can cater for up to 35 people and this is an opportunity that should not be passed up. There aren’t many craftsmen left making pieces the way Sean and his sons do and the tour is fascinating and informative. From bowls to glasses, candlesticks and vases, Dingle Crystal can create the perfect souvenir or gift that you won’t find anywhere else. They also offer beautiful whiskey glasses that have proved extremely popular all over the world. These glasses are the perfect match for Irish whiskey but make sure you get your order in early - these handmade glasses are in great demand. It’s not hard to see why as they really are astounding creations that would stand out in anyone’s collection. Dingle Crystal, Green Street, Dingle, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 915 1550 info@dinglecrystal.ie www.dinglecrystal.ie

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Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.


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Galway International Arts Festival

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our world premieres, three Irish premieres and a multitude of world-class Olivier and Tony Award-winning playwrights, directors and actors will feature alongside a thrilling programme of dance, music, visual art, discussion and debate when the Galway International Arts Festival returns from 11 - 24 July. The festival takes places in venues across the city and, as always, there’s a stellar line-up to enjoy. Landmark Productions and Galway International Arts Festival co-production, Arlington written and directed by Enda Walsh, starring Charlie Murphy, Hugh O’Conor and Oonagh Murphy will feature, as will the world premiere of Invitation to a Journey. The Festival will also present a series of Rooms written and directed by Enda Walsh while the world premiere of Death at Intervals, starring Olwen Fouéré, reunites the creative team behind the acclaimed riverrun and Lessness. Live at the Absolut Big Top is always a big attraction and this year features an amazing line-up of Irish and international musicians including Elvis Costello and The Imposters with special guests The Undertones, Britpop icons Suede, the incredible Villagers with special guest Mick Flannery, Bell X1 with special guests The Academic and Imelda May with special guest

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Damien Dempsey. A broad range of ideas and topics will be explored through a series of conversations, one-to-one interviews and discussions at First Thought Talks. This year the talks will examine the theme of Identity, with talks including ll Change? Ireland’s Identity 2016; Rewriting a National Identity - Can Iceland Teach Ireland?; I Am Who I Am - Identity and Otherness; Looks Aren’t Everything and All The World’s A Stage - Can Theatre Define a Nation? Guest speakers will include theatre critic of the Guardian, Michael Billington; transgender star Rebecca Root; top US model Cameron Russell; Director of the Arts Council, Orlaith McBride; Catriona Crowe, National Archive of Ireland; Mary O’Rourke (Former Fianna Fáil Minister); actor Cathy Belton; Rory O’Neill/Panti Bliss and artists John Gerrard and Varvara Shavrova. This year will also see the

return of the Festival Gallery at the former Connacht Tribune Print Works at Market Street and will host a major exhibition, One Hundred Years And Four Quarters, by acclaimed Irish artist Hughie O’Donoghue. Galway is a city with a passion for the arts all year round and this is shown by the outstanding quality of the Galway International Arts Festival every year. There’s no better place to go to enjoy two weeks of the best in Irish and international theatre, music and art this summer. www.giaf.ie


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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

The Cottage Restaurant

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West. Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.” Sea Road, Galway City. Tel: 091 526 003

Eala Bhán

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Waterfront House Restaurant

Ireland’s largest stockist of Designer Sunglasses If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120

The Yew Tree Restaurant

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Recommended Pubs in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad. 17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

Furey’s Pub

The Quays

Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers. Bridge St, Sligo Tel: 087 958 3080 Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!

Bosh Bar and Restaurant Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

11 Quay St, Galway Tel: 091 568 347

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Roísín Dubh

Matt Malloy’s

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655 July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Connaught

Kylemore Abbey

Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was reopened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.

Glencar Waterfall

Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Inishbofin Island

Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.

Croagh Patrick

Connemara

Mullaghmore

Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain. 50

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Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. Tel: 098 64114


Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal July May 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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NI’s Only Mainland Puffin Colony Arrive at The Gobbins for the New Season

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dash of vibrant colour has returned to the shores of Northern Ireland recently and we’re not referring to the brief, yet welcomed, outbreaks of sunshine and warmth we have been experiencing. The Gobbins, a dramatic cliff path walk located on the magnificent Causeway Coastal Route in Islandmagee, is home to Northern Ireland’s only mainland colony of Puffins. Receiving a welcome return to our shores for breeding season, the brightly-coloured bird colony dig burrows into the Islandmagee cliffs to lay their eggs and are expected to stay put until mid-August. These delightful little birds, which are slightly smaller than a pigeon, are some of the hardiest birds that breed on our shores. Fledging the nest between 38-45 days after being abandoned by their parents, the chicks have to take a leap of faith from their nests burrowed high into the cliff face and into the sea below. After this momentous leap in their young lives, the chicks then disperse throughout the North Sea and Eastern Atlantic; some may even reach the Grand Banks located off Newfoundland or the Mediterranean. Here they will remain for 4-5 years to

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mature before returning to The Gobbins to take their place in the approximately 60-strong colony. The Gobbins is the only attraction in mainland Northern Ireland where visitors flock to avail of this unique opportunity and catch a glimpse of the dazzling Puffin which typically nests in burrows on offshore islands or the crevices of out-of-sight coastal cliffs. Speaking of the Puffins’ highly anticipated return, George McGrand, resident Tour Guide at The Gobbins, said: “It’s tremendous to once again have the wonderfully coloured Puffins return to The Gobbins cliff path after such a long winter wait. The first Puffin to return was sighted on April 15th which was right on the expected arrival date. It’s now June and we are delighted to see that the full colony has now returned. Now we wait patiently with bated breath to catch a glimpse of the first

chicks of the breeding season which are expected later this month.” A location immersed with rich biodiversity, The Gobbins is an area of special scientific interest attracting many breeding sea birds for its high cliffs, abundance of concealed ledges perched safely above rising tides and bounteous population of fish for feeding. To celebrate biodiversity of The Gobbins, in particular, the vibrant colony of Puffins that make the return journey to the site year after year, The Gobbins’ Visitor Centre will soon be introducing its latest team member, and playful mascot, Paddy the Puffin. Along with the resident team, Paddy the Puffin will be on hand to ensure visitors to the unique tourist attraction have a memorable, and educational, experience. For more information on the biodiversity of The Gobbins or to book a tour, contact the Visitor Centre on 028 9337 2318 or visit www.thegobbinscliffpath.com


café-bar 236 LOWER RATHMINES ROAD, DUBLIN 6 TEL: 01-4977057


Explore Ulster

The Old Bushmills Distillery

Belleek Pottery

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. Tel: 028 9076 6386

In 1608, King James I granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel: 028 2073 3218

Ulster American Folk Park

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. Visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value. The National Trust oversees the Causeway and provides the half million tourists who go there every year with all the information that they need. 54

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Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. You can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918

When you step into the world of Belleek Pottery you enter one of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages. Visitors can enjoy a little retail therapy in the Belleek Pottery showroom and no visit is complete without taking a little time out at the Belleek Pottery restaurant to enjoy some well deserved refreshments from the savoury and sweet menu served. Tel: +44(0) 28 6865 9300 Email: visitorcentre@belleek.ie Facebook.com/belleekpottery

Florence Court

Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours. Outside, visitors can discover the working estate including a sawmill, forge and carpenters shop, ice house, the historic rose garden and the mother of all Irish Yews. The Stables tearoom and Coach House gift shop are also onsite. The forest park has 10 miles of trails to enjoy on foot, by bike or on horseback. Tel: 028 6634 9001


Excite your senses at Northern Ireland’s most spectacular cliff path walk

Advance booking is essential. Pre-book your tour today online: www.thegobbinscliffpath.com Tel: +44 (0) 28 9337 2318 This project is part-financed by the European Union’s INTERREG IVA Cross-border Programme managed by the Special EU Programmes Body

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

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Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - July 2016


Recommended Pubs in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 July 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Great Irish Writers

Brendan Behan

B

rendan Behan was a colourful character - renowned almost as much for his drinking exploits as his writing. He even once described himself as, “a drinker with writing problems” and while some of these exploits may have helped him gain a degree of notoriety, they should not take away from his legacy as one of Ireland’s greatest writers and poets. Born into a staunch republican family in Dublin in 1923, the young Brendan was exposed to great literature from an early age. His father Stephen, a house painter, used to read the works of Zola, Galsworthy and Maupassant among others to his children. Stephen had also been active during the Irish War of Independence, as was his wife Kathleen. She was a close friend of Michael Collins and remained politically active throughout her life. Coming from such a background, it is perhaps not surprising that Brendan joined the IRA’s youth wing, Fianna Éireann at the age of 14, before going on to join the IRA at the age of 16. His first poems were published in Fianna Éireann’s magazine Fianna: the Voice of Young Ireland but his involvement with the IRA would lead to his incarceration when he was caught on an unauthorised solo mission to blow up the Liverpool docks. He was sentenced to three years in Hollesley Bay borstal and would not return to Ireland until 1941. His experiences during this time would serve as the inspiration for his famous novel, Borstal Boy. This was not Behan’s last brush with prison. In 1942 he was tried for the attempted murder of two Garda detectives and sent to Mountjoy prison and the Curragh camp. He was released under a general amnesty in 1946 although, once again, his time in prison

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would have an influence on his writing. He wrote his first play, The Landlady, while in Mountjoy and also became fluent in the Irish language. Behan would later write in both Irish and English. Following his release from prison, Behan spent time in Galway and Kerry, as well as Paris, where legend has it he earned a living from writing pornography. Although he still drank heavily, he was disciplined in his writing and woke at 7am every morning and wrote until 12pm when the pubs opened! His breakthrough came with the release of his play, The Quare Fellow, in 1954. The play was a huge success, running in Dublin and the West End in London. Behan managed to generate publicity for the play with a drunken appearance on the Malcolm Muggeridge television show in the UK, which cemented his image as the drunken, rebellious Irish writer. Unfortunately, Behan would only live for 10 more years after this. His heavy drinking led to him developing diabetes and he regularly suffered diabetic seizures and comas. This affected his work and, although Borstal Boy was released to great acclaim in 1958, his later work was not as well received. In March 1964, he collapsed in the Harbour Lights and died at the age of just 41. In spite of his short life, Behan left a large body of influential plays, books, poetry and song, including the iconic song The Auld Triangle which featured in The Quare Fellow and has regularly been performed by artists, including Once star Glen Hansard. His work has also influenced artists as diverse as The Pogues, The Dropkick Murphys, Dexys Midnight Runners and Morrissey and he will forever be remembered as one of the greatest and most colourful writers of the twentieth century.



Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie


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