Travel Ireland Volume 3 Issue 31

Travelireland Volume 3 Issue 31 November 2016

Eirebrushed is heading abroad

Pat Liddy explores Glasnevin Museum's rich cultural History Yarn Storytelling Festival in Wicklow

Winterval in Waterford

magazine

The Red carpet is rolled out at

The Cork Film Festival

The Kings of the Kilburn High Road

at The Gaiety Theatre

The Snow Queen takes over at Smock Alley Theatre

Cynthia Moran Kileavy new Exhibition at Gallery Zozimus

LIVIN’ LIVIN’ DRED DRED THEATRE THEATRE COMPANY COMPANY & VERDANT VERDANT PRODUCTIONS PRODUCTIONS LIVIN’ DRED THEATRE COMPANY && VERDANT PRODUCTIONS IN ASSOCIATION ASSOCIATION WITH WITH THE THE GAIETY GAIETY THEATRE THEATRE PRESENT PRESENT ININ ASSOCIATION WITH THE GAIETY THEATRE PRESENT

★★★★ ★★★★ ★★★★

★★★★ ★★★★ ★★★★ ‘Stellar ‘Stellar Cast’ Cast’

‘You‘You will will Laugh, Laugh, because because if you if you ‘You will Laugh, because if you didn’t didn’t you’d you’d Cry’Cry’ didn’t you’d Cry’ THETHE SUNDAY SUNDAY TIMES TIMES THE SUNDAY TIMES

‘Stellar Cast’ SUNDAY SUNDAY BUSINESS BUSINESS POST POST SUNDAY BUSINESS POST

★★★★ ★★★★ ★★★★ ‘Brilliantly ‘Brilliantly written written andand acted acted play…. play….

★★★★ ★★★★ ★★★★ ‘A delicate ‘A delicate lineline between between comedy comedy

‘Brilliantly written and acted play…. a production a production not not to be to missed’ be missed’ a production not to be missed’ IRISH IRISH EXAMINER EXAMINER IRISH EXAMINER

‘A delicate line between comedy andand tragedy...’ tragedy...’ and tragedy...’

THETHE SUNDAY SUNDAY TIMES TIMES THE SUNDAY TIMES

WRITTEN WRITTEN BY JIMMY JIMMY MURPHY MURPHY|| DIRECTED | DIRECTED BY PADRAIC PADRAIC MCINTYRE MCINTYRE WRITTEN BYBY JIMMY MURPHY DIRECTED BYBY PADRAIC MCINTYRE

MALCOLM MALCOLM ADAMS ADAMS MALCOLM ADAMS

ARTHUR ARTHUR RIORDAN RIORDAN ARTHUR RIORDAN

PHELIM PHELIM DREW DREW SEAMUS SEAMUS O’ROURKE O’ROURKE CHARLIE CHARLIE BONNER BONNER PHELIM DREW SEAMUS O’ROURKE CHARLIE BONNER

Tuesday Tuesday1 toSaturday Saturday12 12November November Tuesday 11to to Saturday 12 November Preview PreviewTuesday Tuesday1 - Allseats seatsm25 m25 Preview Tuesday 1 1-- All All seats m25

Ticket Ticket from from m28 m28 (including (including booking booking feefee & m1 & m1 restoration restoration levy) levy) Ticket from m28 (including booking fee & m1 restoration levy) Ticketmaster: Ticketmaster: 0818 0818 719719 388388 | www.ticketmaster.ie | www.ticketmaster.ie Ticketmaster: 0818 719 388 | www.ticketmaster.ie

Phone Phone & internet & internet bookings bookings subject subject to 12.5% to 12.5% service service charge charge per ticket per ticket (max(max m6.10) m6.10) Agents Agents m2.15 m2.15 per ticket per ticket Phone & internet bookings subject to 12.5% service charge per ticket (max m6.10) Agents m2.15 per ticket

CONTENTS

4 Welcome To Leinster 6 The Kings of the Kilburn High Road 8 Theatre 10 Proclaiming a Republic: The 1916 Rising 12 Eirebrushed 13 Helena Byrne Interview 14 Glasnevin Cemetery 16 Leinster Restaurants 19 Leinster Pubs 20 Mise Éire 22 The Snow Queen 24 Explore Leinster 26 Welcome to Munster 28 Munster Pubs 29 Munster Restaurants 30 Cork Film Festival 32 Explore Munster 34 Artisan Food & Drink 36 Winterval 38 Welcome to Connaught 39 Explore Connaught 40 Shopping 42 Connaught Restaurants 44 Welcome To Ulster 45 Irish Artist Cynthia Moran-Kileavy 46 Explore Ulster 47 Ulster Pubs 48 Ulster Restaurants 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7.

Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our November issue.

Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. As winter starts to roll in, there are a host of great things to do and see all over the country. The Cork Film Festival comes to the city with loads of fantastic films to enjoy. Catch the amazing Eirebrushed before it heads off on a US run or head to the Gaiety to see The Kings of the Kilburn High Road. Pat Liddy takes us through the history of the famous Glasnevin Cemetery and with Christmas just around the corner, it’s time to head to Waterford for the fabulous Winterval festival while The Snow Queen prepares to take over Smock Alley Theatre. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte.

Enjoy your stay.

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Mark O’Brien Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Aran Sheehan (aran@travelirelandmagazine.ie, 085 711 0826) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Carl Mark O’Neill.

We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition.

We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images.

Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife.

All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.

If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

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Stephen’s Green Park through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre.

The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions.

Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland.

Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College.

Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land.

Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough

range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum.

Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’.

You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula.

So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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THE KINGS OF THE KILBURN HIGH ROAD Jimmy Murphy’s critically acclaimed play The Kings of the Kilburn High Road comes to the Gaiety Theatre from 1 to 12 November.The play has been a huge success in New York and London, as well as being adapted into an Irish language film, Kings, in 2006 directed by Tom Collins and was selected as Ireland’s official entry for the 2008 Academy Awards for best foreign language film. Now Livin’ Dred Theatre Company are bringing it back to the Irish stage, directed by Padraic McIntyre and starring Phelim Drew, Malcolm Adams, Arthur Riordan, Seamus O’Rourke and Charlie Bonner.

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The Kings of the Kilburn High Road tells the story of a group of men who left Ireland in the 1970s to try and earn their fortunes in England. Each of the group only intended to stay a little while but after 25 years of working in manual labour jobs in London, the first of the group to actually make it home does so in a coffin.This leads the rest of the group to meet up in a pub on the Kilburn High Road for an informal wake for their departed friend.They drink to the memory of their lost friend but it’s not long before old secrets are revealed and lies are uncovered as the men journey through their lives and dream of a place in a new Ireland.

Murphy’s play traverses the delicate line between comedy and tragedy and is sure to strike a chord with people who have had to move abroad for economic reasons. A talented writer, Murphy has long been established on the Irish theatrical scene. His first play, Brothers of the Bush, opened at the Peacock Theatre in 1993 as part of that year’s Dublin Theatre Festival. It would go on to win the Best New Irish Play Award and the 1994 Stewart Parker Trust Award. His other works include; A Picture of Paradise,The Museli Belt and The Kiss and What’s Left of the Flag, which was nominated for Best New Play at the Irish Times Theatre Awards.

This production of The Kings of the Kilburn High Road finds itself in the incredibly capable and experienced directorial hands of Padraic McIntyre. He is Artistic Director of Livin’ Dred Theatre Company and has directed their first fifteen productions.These include The Beauty Queen of Leenane, Belfry, (both of which were nominated for Irish Times Theatre Awards) The Tale of the Blue Eyed Cat,The Snow Child and The Little Dance Girl, which he wrote for the company. In 2007 he directed The Tinker’s Curse by Michael Harding which was nominated for an Irish Times Theatre Award for Best New Play and Conversations on a Homecoming, which was nominated for The Judges Special Award. He has also directed The Children of Lir; Shoot the Crow, A Christmas Carol and The Good Father, There Came a Gypsy Riding, Observe The Sons of Ulster Marching Towards the Somme both by Frank McGuiness, Ride On by Seamus O’Rourke and The Bridge Below the Town by Pat McCabe with whom he has developed a close working relationship. Livin Dred/NOMAD’s production of The Dead School by Pat McCabe was regarded as one of the theatrical highlights of 2008 and was nominated for three Irish Times Theatre Awards including Best Production. McIntyre is also a prolific actor and has appeared in

AT GAIETY THEATRE Winter Came Down (Quare Hawks Theatre Company) Howie the Rookie (Library Theatre, Manchester), Shagnasty & Duck (Guilded Balloon, Edinburgh) Loves Labours Lost (English Touring Theatre, National Tour) and Big Maggie (New Vic Theatre), as well as the feature film The Ballad of Honky McSwaine and the hit RTE television series Love/Hate.

The talented cast includes Phelim Drew (Once, My Left Foot, Playboy of the Western World), Malcolm Adams (Alone It Stands, Stones In His Pockets), Arthur Riordan (Writer of The Train & Rap Eire with Des Bishop), Seamus O’Rourke (Ride On!, Beauty Queen of Leenane) and Charlie Bonner (Dancing at Lughnasa, RTE’s Rebellion).

This incredible group of actors will bring to life a story that will be familiar to so many who have experienced similar stories of immigration. At times poignant but also amusing,The Kings of the Kilburn High Road is an experience not to be missed this month. www.gaietytheatre.ie

Murphy’s play traverses the delicate line between comedy and tragedy and is sure to strike a chord with people who have had to move abroad for economic reasons.

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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre Yarn Storytelling Festival

Yarn Brings the art of storytelling to the wider community. The festival is now in its 7th year and invites you to “let a story lace its charm on you”. This fantastic festival puts people back in touch with the ancient art of storytelling, with a range of events from cabaret, to poetry, music, open mic nights and more.

Also at The Abbey this month; Fornocht Do Chonac Naked I Saw You (9 - 12 November), The Ireland Trilogy (19 - 26 November).

The Gate Theatre

Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf ?

12 - 20 November Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also in the Mermaid Arts Centre this month; Eye In The Sky (1 November), Goosebumps (2 November), Halloween Brickflicks (3 - 4 November), Bad Bones and Diamond Dagger (4 November), The Nualas - Glitterbomb Tour (5 November), Julieta (7 November), Square One Theatre Group - Pygmalion (8 - 12 November), Mustang (21 November), Footloose - Loreto Secondary School Bray & Presentation College Bray (23 - 26 November), Truman (28 November).

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Sister Act

Sister Act is the funkiest and funniest musical around. The Broadway and West End smash comes to the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre with Alexandra Burke in the lead role of Deloris Van Cartier. This disco diva’s life takes a surprising turn when she is witness to a murder and has to hide in a convent where she helps the sisters find their voices and unexpectedly rediscovers her own.

14 - 19 November Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also in the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre this month; RTE Concert Orchestra Presents Star Trek (4 - 5 November), Ghost The Musical (8 - 12 November), An Evening with Sir Roger Moore (20 November), Swan Lake ( 22 - 23 November), The Nutcracker (24 - 26 November), La Boheme (30 November - 4 December).

The Abbey Theatre

6 October - 19 November Tel: 01 8872200

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1 - 12 November Tel: 0818 719 388.

Also in The Gaiety this month; The Nutcracker (16 - 19 November), Robin Hood And His Merry Men (27 November - 8 January).

The Olympia Theatre Michael Nyman

Directed by David Grindley and starring Fiona Bell, Denis Conway, Mark Huberman and Sophie Robinson, Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf ? Is a stunning piece of American theatre. Edward Albee’s thought provoking masterpiece exposes marital discontent and delusion through a war of attrition between a university professor, his wife, and their unwitting guests.

26 October - 12 November Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042 Also at The Gate this month; The Heiress (17 November - 7 January).

National Concert Hall

The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland.

Highlights this month include; Slow Moving Clouds (4 November), Irish/Chinese Youth Concert (5 November), Fiddler On The Roof (8 - 12 November), Scintillating Science with Dara O’Briain (14 November), Family Concert - The Nutcracker (19 November), Roisin Walsh, Soprano (22 November) and A Christmas Festival (29 November). www.nch.ie

The Gaiety Theatre

Kings of the Kilburn High Road

Donegal

Donegal, a musical play by Frank McGuinness receives its world premiere at the Abbey this month. The Day family are Irish country music royalty and Irene is their queen. Her relatives are completely dependent on her success but her star is fading fast. When the heir to her musical throne, Jackie Day, returns from America with a new girlfriend in tow, resentments simmer. Will Jackie save the family from financial ruin with the gift of a song? And can Irene keep the family together?

the men journey through their lives and dream of a place in a new Ireland.

Michael Nyman, the man who composed the iconic soundtrack to The Piano, brings his piano to Dublin for a rare solo performance.

The composer will play from his staggering repertoire, that spans soundtrack, classical and operatic music.

4 - 8 October Also in the Olympia this month; Tom Odell (1 November), Picture This (2 - 12 November), Hermitage Green (4 November), Jake Bugg (5 November), Jimmy Eat World (7 November), Deacon Blue (8 November), Christine Bovill’s Piaf (9 November), Ash (10 November), Chance The Rapper (11 November), Romesh Ranganathan (13 November), St. Germain (14 November), ABC (15 November), Frank Turner (16 November), An Evening of Burlesque (18 November), The Blizzards (19 November), Catfish and the Bottlemen (20 November), Professor Brian Cox (22 November), Brian Fallon & The Crowes (23 November), The Saw Doctors (24 - 26 November) Above & Beyond (27 November), Melanie Martinez (28 November), Dr Hook (29 November) and Primal Scream (30 November).

Smock Alley Theatre God Has No Country

Written and performed by Donal Courtney, God Has No Country is a dramatic retelling of the wartime exploits of Irish priest Hugh O’Flaherty, who saved the lives of 6,500 people in Rome during World War II. There will also be post show discussions after every show, with special guest speakers including Michael O’Regan and Mícheál Ó Muircheartaigh.

7 - 10 November & 16 November

A group of men who leave Ireland in the 1970s to try and earn their fortunes in England. Only intending to stay a little while, the first of the group to actually make it home does so in a coffin 25 years later. This rest of the group to meet up in a pub for an informal wake for their departed friend but it’s not long before old secrets are revealed and lies are uncovered as

Also at Smock Alley this month; Restless Ecstasy (25 October - 5 November), Dublin Book Festival (10 - 13 November), Shadows of the Táin (15 - 18 November), To Space (17 November), Wild Laughter (18 November), Shakespeare for Schools (20 November), Unshakable Spirits: Double Bill (22 November - 3 December) and ‘Twas the night before Murder (28 November - 1 December). www.smockalley.com Tel: 01 6770014

Proclaiming A Republic: The 1916 Rising At The National Museum of Ireland

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he National Museum of Ireland has a long history of exhibitions relating to the 1916 Rising and this year, to mark the centenary of the event, they have put together an exhibition of one of the largest collections of materials from the period. The Museum of Decorative Arts and History, Collins Barracks is a fitting home for this collection as it was not far from the barracks that some of the fighting took place, in locations such as the Four Courts and the GPO. Visitors to Proclaiming A Republic will have a unique opportunity to experience the physical proximity to the people and events of the Rising through everyday intimate and personal belongings, some of which have never been on display before.

The exhibition explores the background to the events that led up to the 1916 Rising. Visitors can delve into the nuances of the political events of the time and learn how the political climate became more militaristic in the lead up to the Rising. The rise of the Catholic elite and the push for Home Rule are explored, as well as the counter moves from unionists. Irish arts and culture movements of the time also played a part in the growing popularity of republican nationalism.

Personal belongings and memorabilia tell the story of the Rising itself. Visitors can follow the rebels as they set up garrisons around Dublin, with the limited action outside of the city also explored. The story is told through artefacts such as the clothing worn by the rebels and the British Army, watches used to time rebel dispatches, bullets, homemade bombs and bayonets, and unique items such as the razor used by Thomas Clarke and Padraig Pearse’s spectacles.

The horrors and casualties of war are also explored using artefacts from the time. Smelling salts used to revive the wounded and first aid 10

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

kits used to treat the injured and the dying will be on display, giving an insight into the experiences of the soldiers fighting the battles.

Civilians were also caught up in the fighting and their personal stories are told through poignant artefacts, such as a crucifix perforated by a stray bullet.

The Rising was a short and brutal affair that led to the destruction of many areas of the city centre. Scenes of that destruction greet the visitor as they move from the battlegrounds to the surrender of the rebels and the subsequent introduction of martial law. It is in this sombre area of the exhibition that visitors can view the last letters of those who had been sentenced to death for their part in the Rising.

Written in their own handwriting, these are the last thoughts and emotions of the rebel leaders. Visitors can read these moving words and also listen to dramatic, modern day readings of these touching letters. Many more people were imprisoned for their part in the Rising and their experiences are explored through the arts and crafts of the internment camps, as well as prison badges and caps.

Artefacts and accounts from the time also help the visitor to understand the plight of the families of the rebels, learning how those families coped with courts martial, imprisonment and execution of their loved ones.

Proclaiming A Republic offers a comprehensive and fascinating insight into the 1916 Rising, exploring the event from all sides through the use of a staggering number of artefacts from the era. It reflects on 100 years of collecting and commemorating the last tangible links to the men, women and children of the time and is an essential stop for anyone with an interest in the pivotal event that was the 1916 Rising. www.museum.ie

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Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre.

Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic!

Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

eirebrushed at Sean OCasey Theatre

Brian Merriman’s brilliant play Eirebrushed comes to the Sean O’Casey Theatre for one night only on 4 November before it embarks on a US run later in the month.The play has earned rave reviews since opening at the 2014 Dublin Gay Theatre Festival and was even mentioned in the Irish parliament, the Dáil, during the debate over the 2015 Gender Recognition Bill, which was subsequently passed.

Eirebrushed tells the story of the lesbian and gay heroes of the 1916 Rising.

Elizabeth O’Farrell (Maria Blaney), Padraig Pearse (John Kelly), Roger Casement (Stephen Gorman) and Eva Gore Booth (Flo McSweeney) return today to see how the Republic of Equals that was declared in 1916 turned out 100 years later. Nurse Elizabeth O’Farrell in particular was airbrushed out of history. She delivered the surrender to the British forces and was stood beside Pearse when offering the surrender but the famous photograph of the surrender Flo McSweeney as Eva Gore Booth was subsequently altered to remove her from the picture.

The 1916 Proclamation was revolutionary for the time as it guaranteed equality for all citizens - men and women alike. The four main characters in the play return to Ireland 100 years later to find out how their vision of a promised land of equals turned out.

“The play’s premise is: ‘can a flawed person be a hero?’” says writer Brian Merriman. “They were not just fighting for freedom but to be free. Equality must be personal, and the play argues that their heroic efforts just replaced a political oppressor with a conscience oppressor.”

This 75-minute play is full of humour,

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John Kelly as Padraig Pearse

pathos and actual quotations from the writing of the four protagonists. It challenges the conventional Irish and Republican stereotype of erasing the contribution of some lesbian and gay people at a time of struggle to overcome oppression in Ireland. The play records their words used in inspirational poetry, speeches and politics as they struggled to create the society promised by the 1916 Proclamation where no minority would be subject to the will of the majority.

This important play has been included in Culture Ireland’s ‘Ireland 2016’ commemorative arts programme. While Ireland has undoubtedly come far when it comes to recognising the rights of minorities, Eirebrushed is reminder that many people had to fight to win these rights and there are some battles that still need to be fought. Following the show in the Sean O’Casey Theatre, the play will move on to United States. It will be on in the Provincetown Theater, the theatrical home of Tennessee Williams and Eugene O’Neill, from 10 - 12 November before moving on to the new diversity theatre Downtown Art, 70 East 4th Street, NYC 10003 (www.downtownart.org) from 14 - 19 November. www.facebook.com/Eirebrushed/

Helena Byrne Interview

Fresh from a successful US tour, storyteller Helena Byrne will appear at the Yarn Storytelling Festival in Bray this month

H

elena Byrne has been fascinated by performing ever since watching her father in local musicals as a child in Kilkenny. A talented actor and musician who once came second in the 2FM Young Songwriter’s Competition, Helena fell into storytelling almost by accident when she started her first job in Dublin. It was only recently, when researching stories for her album Scéal that she discovered that storytelling runs in the blood.

“I only discovered last year that my grandfather was a storyteller,” she says. After Helena put a call out on Facebook for stories for her album, one of her cousins got in touch. “I was asking people if they had any stories and she said ‘Oh, my dad has stories that our grandfather used to tell’ and it was then that I discovered that he was a bit of a storyteller,” says Helena.

“He’d have people coming over to the house, sitting around and getting them to tell stories so I guess I must have caught the bug from him, even though I didn’t know it.”

Many of Helena’s grandfather’s stories found their way into her album Scéal - a compilation of stories and songs from the past, when fairies and banshees reputedly roamed Ireland. The album has been a great success and as well as featuring regularly at the storytelling nights in the Brazen Head in Dublin, Helena has just returned from a tour of the USA, a tour which opened up her eyes to the wide appeal of the old Irish stories.

“It went great,” Helena says of the tour. “I had a lot of audiences with Irish diaspora, ex-pats and that sort of thing but then other audiences, like in Georgia, didn’t really have much of

an Irish connection but they really enjoyed the stories anyway.”

Next up for Helena is a show in the Mermaid Arts Centre in Bray on 19 November as part of the Yarn Storytelling Festival.

This show will be based on Scéal but will also incorporate elements of music and theatre - effectively combining Helena’s three great passions.

“I will still be telling the story as I would usually tell a story but my father is going to be performing with me as well,” she says. “So there’s going to be certain moments of the story where on the other side of the stage, he’s acting it out as well and there will be music also.”

The Yarn Storytelling Festival will take place at various venues around Bray from 12 to 20 November. It’s aim is to keep alive the great Irish tradition of storytelling, with events for the whole family to enjoy. Helena is looking forward to the festival and she shares the organiser’s passion for keeping the art of storytelling alive.

“There’s a danger of storytelling being forgotten a little bit,” she says. “It would be a shame to neglect the storytelling tradition because it is such an important part of our culture.”

With brilliant performers like Helena Byrne and dedicated people such as those behind the Yarn Storytelling Festival, it’s unlikely that this great Irish tradition will be dying out any time soon.

For further information on the Yarn Storytelling Festival, visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Glasnevin Cemetery

by Pat Liddy

A

cemetery may be the last place anyone would think of as being a tourist attraction but the concept may not be so strange after all. Paris has Pere Lachaise, Rome has its catacombs,Vienna its Zentralfriedhof, Washington has Arlington and London presents spooky Highgate Cemetery. Dublin’s necropolis, Glasnevin Cemetery, is a ‘must see’ for anyone visiting the city with a little time to spare. But always remember, while such visits are primarily to see the final resting places of the famous or indeed the infamous, cemeteries demand respect, especially towards those visiting who are still raw with recent loss.

Cemeteries have only been around in Ireland for a couple of centuries. Previous to that the deceased were buried in small churchyards attached to local churches. After the 18th century, with the massive growth in urbanisation and the population increase due to improved medical advances, traditional burial grounds proved to be inadequate. From the 1800s larger burial grounds, unattached to churches, were established but, like the church graveyards, these were initially Protestant-run. Catholics had a right to be buried but prayers and ceremonies of that religion were severely curtailed.

Following the 1824 ‘Act of Easement of Burial’, multi and non-

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

denominational cemeteries were allowed. Daniel O’Connell, famed in Ireland as The Liberator on account of achieving Roman Catholic Emancipation in 1829 from the dreaded anti-Catholic Penal Laws, determined to open a cemetery where all religions and none could carry out burials in their own traditions. His Catholic Association opened Goldenbridge Cemetery in Inchicore in 1828. A larger cemetery at Prospect, in Glasnevin on Dublin’s northside, was opened in February 1832. Never one to be thwarted by the establishment, O’Connell bypassed the then tolls applicable on the roads approaching the cemetery by simply cutting a new road between them. His outwitting of the toll gatherers led to his reputation of being able to “drive a coach and six (horses) through Acts of Parliament”!

Sadly, and perhaps reflecting the high infant and child mortality of the time, the first internment was that of eleven-year old Michael Carey from Francis Street in the inner city. He was, of course, quickly followed by many more until today, over one and a half million people lie in repose in Glasnevin thus equalling the total living population!

Almost as soon as the new cemetery opened the ghoulish practice

of graverobbing began. Medical colleges were growing in size and importance but, thanks to earlier laws, only the bodies of unbaptised infants and hanged criminals were allowed to be used for dissection. People, especially the poor, tended to be buried soon after death in those days. No sooner were their remains interred, and with the approach of darkness, shadowy figures climbed over walls and set about their grim work. They dug up the loose earth around the heads of those most recently buried and dragged out the corpse by placing a hook under the chin. Quickly placing the body in a sack they scarpered out of the cemetery and galloped away as quickly as they could, often pursued by armed night watchmen and vicious Cuban bloodhound dogs. No questions were asked at the receiving door of the medical colleges and the appropriate fee was handed over. When the Anatomy Law, allowing dissection of officially donated bodies, was passed in 1832 it put an end to this dreadful practice. The high walls and watchtowers still standing around Glasnevin date from this time.

Many illustrious personages, especially those associated with a resurgent Ireland or yearning for independence from England, made their last journey to Glasnevin, sometimes accompanied by massive crowds. They included politicians (including O’Connell), churchmen,

magistrates, poets, writers, artists, singers, industrialists, revolutionaries and soldiers from all sides of conflict. Burials were often used as occasions for displays of dignified civil protest and even once for the official ‘launch’ of the 1916 Rising! Now associates, competitors and former enemies all lie together in equality and peace.

Of course, there were the forgotten and the ignored. Tens of thousands were buried in mass graves -those who died in the cholera outbreaks, during famines and from smallpox outbreaks.

Throngs of the underprivileged were buried in the ‘poor ground’. A disgrace of times past was when up to 50,000 unbaptised babies, usually stillborn, were anonymously buried in what is now honoured as the Angels’ Memory Garden.

If you normally see cemeteries as Dickensian, haunted or places of decay you will be surprised at the pristine condition of Glasnevin.

Huge restoration of its thousands of monuments, some spectacular, has been undertaken and there is also an incredible museum where you can even trace your family history. www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Mykonos Taverna

Pallet Pizza

Pallet Pizza is a contemporary Neighbourhood Pizzeria on bustling Camden Street in the city centre, a five minute stroll from Grafton Street.

Their thin based classic pizzas, pastas and other snacks are made fresh in house daily. Friendly service, delicious Pizzas and a great drinks selection make Pallet Pizza an essential stop on any visit to Dublin.

Authentic Greek food in the heart of Dublin.

Mykonos Taverna offers traditional Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Kleftiko and Souvlaki at incredibly good prices, all made from the freshest of ingredients from land and sea. The staff are friendly and attentive and always on hand to cater to your every need, all you have to do is relax and enjoy your food! Make sure you try their delicious homemade ice cream too, which is made on the premises. The perfect way to round off a fantastic Greek meal.

76 Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 561 3745

Restaurant FortyOne

Facebook: Pallet PIZZA Dublin Twitter: @DubPizza

Café Topolis

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Camden Kitchen

Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years. This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin.

41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie 16

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard.

Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Le Bon Crubeen

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes.

It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.

81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 1026 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Pacino’s

Ideally situated on Suffolk Street, just off Grafton Street and opposite Trinity College, Pacino’s offers authentic Italian food in an old world vibe of stylish brickwork, wooden floors and soft lighting. The restaurant offers authentic, rustic Italian cooking with ingredients sourced from only the best local butchers, fishmongers and artisan producers.

18 Suffolk Street Dublin 2 01 677 5651 www.pacinos.ie

Zaragoza

The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines.

Open Mon-Sun 12noon - Midnight (last orders) 18 William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 679 4020 www.zaragozadublin.com

The Larder Restaurant & Brewhouse

Asador

La Resérve Brasserie

La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you.

La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 496 8825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie

Kafka Restaurant An oasis of quality, The Larder offer excellent Brunch, Lunch and Evening menus made from the highest quality, locally sourced ingredients.

These dishes are finished off with herbs grown in their own walled garden and complimented by their range of own brand beers. The meal can then be topped off with their own brand coffee; Dublin Roaster.

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’.

ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

8 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 633 3581 info@thelarder.ie www.thelarder.ie

Marcel’s Restaurant

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4.

Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 660 2367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out.

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

17

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Zaytoon

Chez Max

Corfu Greek Restaurant

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin!

Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is a smart garden at restaurant level as well as a sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are wellheated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer, diners flock to Chez Max, Baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list.

133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8899

12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

Thornton’s Restaurant

Salamanca

This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.

Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. Tel: 01 478 7008

The Blind Pig

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie

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Taco Taco

Perfect for brunch or a casual evening meal, Taco Taco is sure to get your taste buds tingling. They have a range of specials on offer, such as Chargrilled Jerk Chicken for two with a range of sides for €29.95 on Sunday nights and Super Nacho Happy Hour from 5pm to 6.30pm from Monday to Sunday. While you’re there, make sure you sample some of their amazing cocktails, such as Whiskey Smash, Brunch Sour or Mojito.

14 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 083 449 9584 www.tacotacodublin.com

La Ruelle Wine Bar

Banyi Japanese Dining

Want to know where to find the best cocktails in Dublin? We know the place but you have to keep it secret. The brainchild of award winning mixologist Paul Lambert and named after the police who turned a blind eye to speakeasies in the prohibition era in the US, The Blind Pig is Dublin’s best kept secret and the perfect place to go to enjoy the finest cocktails and the best food that Dublin has to offer. Originally a pop-up speakeasy bar, The Blind Pig is now in permanent residence and has developed a loyal fanbase thanks to the unique experience that this venue offers. So how do you find them?

Give them a call, book through their website, and await further instructions.

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers.

Perfect for the festive season or any events.

A hidden gem in the heart of Temple Bar, Banyi offer delicious sushi and amazing Japanese dishes. Choose between bento boxes, a la carte and set menu options with a range of mouth watering signature dishes to choose from, including Teriyaki, Katsu Curry, Ramen, Tempura and more. All of which are best enjoyed with their range of traditional Japanese drinks, served by their friendly and welcoming staff. Mention Travel Ireland to receive a 10% discount.

Tel: 085 874 7901 www.theblindpig.ie reservations@theblindpig.ie

3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

3 - 4 Bedford Row, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 01 6750669 www.banyijapanesedining.com

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

Recommended Pubs in Leinster music. The welcoming staff offer a range of premium Irish whiskeys and if whiskey isn’t your thing then you have another great option. Dice Bar brew their own beers; the delicious Revolution Red and Augustine With so much choice and a relaxed setting, Dice Bar warrants many return visits. Open from 3pm daily.

57 The Headline

Situated only a short walk from St Patrick’s Cathedral and Teeling Whiskey Distillery, 57 The Headline is the ideal spot to sample the best of Irish Craft Beers and Whiskeys.

With 24 taps dedicated to the best of Irish and International beers, you won’t be stuck for choice. They offer Beer tasting trays from 3 to 9 choices and 5 Whiskey trays. They also serve the best bar food in Dublin 8 and you won’t be paying city centre prices. Visit their website for all products, opening times and more.

Clanbrassil St. Lower, Dublin 8 Tel: 01 532 0279 www.57theheadline.ie

93-94 Benburb Street Tel: 01 633 3936 www.thatsitdublin.com

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If

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you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some ĆĞnj ĎĒĊ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ ͕͖ ēĔĔē of theinto best in aDublin Sinboys É isand strolling themusicians celt is like taking trip to thethen west, play chailíní payfor attention andto dance definitely the place be.along the way to the early light

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnån O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey.

Tickets available at the bar for â‚Ź18.

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

the celt

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Doheny & Nesbitt’s

14 -15 Ormond Quay ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜ Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037

One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier.

Tap House

Be prepared to enter into the world of true beer artistry, where friendly knowledgeable staff will guide you to that perfect beverage, served in the especially designed Munique glass, which optimises the aroma, retaining carbonation and cooling until the last drop.

With possibly finest bar food and cocktails in town, your whole party will be catered for in this wonderfully unique establishment.

60 Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 491 3436. www.taphouse.ie

5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 2945

The Celt

Dice Bar

Situated on the corner of Benburb Street and Queen Street, near Smithfield Square, at Dice Bar they strive for three things – great drinks, great staff and great

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

Grogan’s

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Mise Éire

T

At The National Museum of Ireland

he National Museum of Ireland - Decorative Arts in Collins Barracks will host a fascinating look at the idea of national identities. The Mise Éire conference will be hosted in the museum on 4 and 5 November and will feature a host of leading design historians, practitioners and academics, who will explore the notion of national identities in Ireland through the lens of design and craft.

Part of the 1916 centenary programme, the aim of Mise Éire is to initiate dialogue and question the impact of global influences, as well as the roles cultural diversity and technology play in shaping national identities in the present and what roles they will play in the future.

The first day of the conference will include panel discussions on topics including; Remembering 1916, the role of the state and how national museums reflect identities through material culture and official collections and the role of design in the future. All are sure to be lively and interesting discussions, with contributions coming from the likes of Dr Lisa Godson, Dr Moya Carey, Joe Hogan, Joseph Walsh and Brian Kennedy.

The keynote address on Saturday will be ‘La maladie de porcelaine: Travels with the Fonthill Vase’, delivered by Edmund de Waal. Best known for his large scale installations of porcelain vessels, De Waal’s work has been exhibited worldwide, including recent exhibitions at Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna, Kunsthaus, Graz, Galerie Max Hetzler, Berlin, Gagosian Gallery, Beverly Hills and the Royal Academy in London. His family memoir The Hare with Amber Winterval_Magazine AD_2016.pdf 1 24/10/2016 15:20 Eyes won several literary awards and he released his second book The White Road last year. He will be on hand for a book signing after he delivers his

fascinating keynote address.

The second day of the conference will very much focus on new research papers, with a selection of new papers from researchers, practitioners and graduates that address various themes that will be discussed during the conference. These include; Dr. Claudia Kinmouth’s The Sligo Chair revisited: Ancestry & Evolution, an interdisciplinary approach, Dr. Sorcha O’Brien’s Shining, Clean Machines: The Promotion of Vacuum Cleaners in 1950s and 1960s Ireland, Mary Ann Bolger’s “Ritual strangulation with regurgitated interlacing:” reimagining the Celtic in modern Irish design and David Smith’s Embracing Cliché: The influence of Kerbstone 52 in the visual identity of Year of Irish Design 2015 – a project study.

The keynote address on Sunday will be ‘Design, Cultural Practice and Identity in Everyday Life’, delivered by Prof. Tom Inglis, who is the Emeritus Professor of Sociology at University College Dublin. He has written extensively about Irish culture, particularly in relation to religion, sexuality, the media, globalisation, love and the meaning of life. He has published numerous articles and books on these topics, including; Moral Monopoly: The Catholic Church in Modern Irish Society, Lessons in Irish Sexuality and Truth, Power and Lies: Modern Irish Society and the Case of the Kerry Babies.

Mise Éire is sure to offer some wonderful insights into national identity and offers the chance to hear a range of interesting and engaging voices. Tickets are available now for this unique conference priced at €60, with concession tickets available at €45 for students, the unwaged and senior citizens. www.miseeireconference.ie

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

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The Snow Queen at Smock Alley TheatrE

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

Smock Alley Theatre present a brilliant new take on Hans Christian Andersen’s classic tale, The Snow Queen, this Christmas. Running from 5 to 23 December, with Saturday afternoon matinees, this imaginative new spin on an old favourite is sure to be a hit with young and old alike.

Smock Alley Theatre present a brilliant new take on Hans Christian Andersen’s classic tale, The Snow Queen, this Christmas. Running from 5 to 23 December, with Saturday afternoon matinees, this imaginative new spin on an old favourite is sure to be a hit with young and old alike.

Set in the year 2116 when planet Earth is 99.9% water following a seismic event known as ‘The Great Melting’. This saw the Earth’s temperature suddenly rise and the Arctic disappear. Since then, there has been not a single flake of snow or solitary cube of ice and the idea of Christmas is no more.

Small towns still exist scattered around the globe, although they are heavily fortified, nobody ever leaves and people are deeply distrustful of people from other places because their clothes are weird and they smell a bit different.

In one of these towns live two geeky best friends - a young girl called Gerda and a young boy called Kay. Gerda is a slightly insufferable, know-it-all who has read the entire internet, while Kay is the quiet, bumbling bookish type. In fact, Kay is the only person Gerda has ever met who still reads books.

Kay is obsessed with the idea of snow, ice, and most of all, of Christmas but Gerda dismisses his ludicrous notions.

After all, everyone knows that

Christmas was a horrible time when people were terribly mean and stole things from each other and everyone is generally much better off without it.

‘The Government told us that’, she assures Kay, and the Government have never, ever lied.

One day, Kay finds an old book called ‘The Snow Queen’ on a dusty shelf of a dusty library. Knowing that it is

forbidden for youngsters to read such things, he smuggles the book home and that night he opens it. A smattering of some strange white frozen stuff falls outside his window and he sees a vision of a beautiful woman made entirely, it seems, of ice. The next morning, he is gone, with the townspeople assuming that he has been eaten by a killer whale, although Gerda isn’t willing to give up quite so easily. What follows is a magical adventure as Gerda attempts to rescue Kay from the Snow Queen.

This stunning production is sure to enrapture children and adults alike, blending elements of modernity with a timeless story to conjure up a wondrous theatrical experience. What’s more, theatre goers can enjoy a special dinner and a show on selected nights. For just €30 for adults and €25 for children (which includes a ticket to the show), you can enjoy a delicious festive, seasonal meal in the theatre before heading in to see the performance later that evening. That’s a pretty special deal for what is sure to be a very special Christmas experience as The Snow Queen receives a makeover and prepares to enchant a new generation of fans at Smock Alley this year. www.smockalley.com

November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Leinster

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin The War Memorial Gardens The Old Jameson Distillery The Old Jameson Distillery has temporarily closed its doors until March 2017 for A new makeover and It promises to be nothing short of spectacular upon reopening so watch this space. Its business as usual at the Jameson Experience in Cork (see explore munster).

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions. Located 2.5km from Dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried.

Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours. A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself.

Awarded Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and listed at no. 2 on Tripadvisor, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance.

Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site.

Open daily for guided tours and re-enactments museum@glasnevintrust.ie 24

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures.

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes. The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages.

In this centenary year of the Easter Rising of 1916 there are exciting tours dedicated to this momentous event, a pivotal episode in Irish history which eventually led to Irish Independence in 1922 after 750 years of British rule.

When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens.

Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944).

The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle.

The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk.

Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816

Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 01 832 9406.

The National Museum of Ireland

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours.

Tel 01 677 7444

Powerscourt House and Gardens Beautiful Powerscourt House and Gardens was recently voted No.3 in the World’s Top Ten Gardens by National Geographic and is one of the must-see tourist attractions in Ireland. Set in the wild Wicklow countryside, overlooking the Sugarloaf Mountain, Powerscourt enjoys a breath-taking panorama. The Gardens stretch over 47 acres and offer visitors a sublime blend of formal gardens, sweeping terraces, statues and ornamental lakes, secret hollows and rambling walks. Voted in the Top Ten Houses in the World by Lonely Planet, Powerscourt House features a range of artisan stores and the Avoca Terrace Café. Also located on Powerscourt Estate are two championship Golf Courses, Ireland’s Highest Waterfall and the Powerscourt Hotel.

W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000

GROGANS 15 South William Street Host to a continuous changing art exhibition

Telephone 01 6779320

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture.

From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.

Reginald’s Tower

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world.

The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience.

The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore.

Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’

Blarney Castle

and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production.

County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

CEMETERY MUSEUM CEMETERY MUSEUM & GUIDED TOURS Winner Ireland’s BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCE

Irish Tourism Industry Awards 2015/16 RECOGNISING SUCCESS and INNOVATION

WINNER

IRELAND’S HISTORY CARVED IN STONE

CEMETERY MUSEUM

museum and 1916 exhibition tours and re-enactments

CEMETERY MUSEUM MUSEUM CEMETERYCEMETERY MUSEUM

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY MUSEUM, FINGLAS ROAD, DUBLIN 11 PHONE 01 882 6550 MUSEUM@ GLASNEVINTRUST.IE

Recommended Pubs in Munster Dick Mack’s

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.

Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Jack Meades (under the bridge)

An Brog

O’Neill’s Bar

An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.

Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork Tel: 021 427 0074

Buckley’s Bar

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.

The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry.

Tel: 064 663 1037

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860.

But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.

O’Neill’s Bar/Mol’s Restaurant is located at the top of the town of Tramore. It’s one of the original family owned and run, bar & restaurants in Tramore. With its long standing tradition in sport it’s no wonder this bar is the main sports bar in the town. Since its renovation in 2015 the bar has gone from strength to strength with now one of the most comfortable and accommodating smoking rooms in the country.

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Live music every Thursday to Sunday ensures that your visit will be one you won’t forget. They also have a top class restaurant adjacent to the bar which serves excellent cuisine hosting a range of dishes sourced locally with the best Waterford has to offer

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant.

So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.

O’Neills Bar, Summerhill, Tramore, Co.Waterford

3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Strand Inn

fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

The Smuggler’s Inn

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors.

Dunmore East, Co.Waterford.

Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

The Munster Room Restaurant

The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort was awarded 2AA Rosettes in 2001 and currently continues this elite standard further confirmed with multiple awards and its review in the 2015 Michelin Guide. With its warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls, ornate ceiling, and further complemented by an extensive wine cellar and exciting seasonal menus it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Using the finest local produce, gifted head chef Michael Thomas and his culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience.

Waterford Castle, The Island, Co. Waterford Tel: 051 878203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com/munsterroom-restaurant

Out of the Blue

They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City.

Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Copper Hen

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience.

For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it.

Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

The Cliff Restaurant The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced.

Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on.

Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch.

Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie

The Cliff Restaurant is a new addition to The Strand Inn. The Cliff is a relaxed, casual affair serving brunch from 1pm, and is open for food until 9pm. The Cliff contains a bar and two dining rooms. Downstairs is kid friendly, while upstairs is kid free making it the perfect place for both a family occasion or an evening meal with friends. The menu is wide ranging and includes pizzas, pastas, great salads and burgers, as well as delicious steaks.

Dunmore East, Co.Waterford Tel: 051 383 839 November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Cork Film

Festival

More than 200 films will be showcased at the Cork Film Festival from 11 - 20 November. Ireland’s oldest film festival will this year showcase home-grown talent and international features, as well as a strong focus on documentary film, with 52 documentaries, over 100 short films and 55 countries represented throughout the programme.

Over 15,000 people are expected to attend the festival, which opens with the stunning documentary Dancer, which tells the story of bad-boy ballet star Sergei Polunin. The acclaimed A United Kingdom, starring David Oyelowo and Rosamund Pike, will close the festival. Amma Asante’s powerful and heartwarming tale tells the true story of the interracial marriage of Englishwoman Ruth Williams to the former Bechuanaland royal Seretse Khama, who led his nation to independence from the British Empire.

David Oyelowo plays the new country Botswana’s first President, and Rosamund Pike the accomplished white middle class office worker, whose romance and then marriage outrages everyone – his family, hers, South African Government officials, the Botswanian people and British officialdom and society alike.

Elsewhere, there is something for everyone to enjoy with this diverse line-up of cracking films. As festival Creative Director James Mullighan puts it: “From a special presentation of one of the most widely discussed films of 2016, Nate Parker’s The Birth of a Nation, to the world premiere of the thoroughly engaging Irish surf documentary Between Land and Sea, the Festival accurately reflects the fantastic diversity of global, contemporary cinema.”

Films will be screened at four locations across the city; The Everyman, Gate Cinema, Triskel Christchurch, and a special 30

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visual and audio experience, fLux, at St Fin Barre’s Cathedral, with musical innovators, Eat My Noise. Continuing to nurture home-grown talent, the festival will screen 39 Irish short films, with over a quarter from Cork. Submissions this year, both nationally and internationally, exceeded 1,500 and the winner of the Grand Prix Irish Short, presented by RTÉ Cork, and the winner of the Grand Prix International, will automatically qualify for the Academy Awards longlist.

This year will see an increased family programme, including two major films, Rock Dog and The Eagle Huntress. In deference to Roald Dahl’s 100th birthday and as a tribute to the late Gene Wilder, there will be screenings of the much loved Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory. Fans of Wilder can also catch him in Mel Brooks’ classic comedy Blazing Saddles which wil also screen during the festival.

Other highlights include Mumford and Sons’ new music documentary We Wrote This Yesterday at The Everyman on 19 November, hosted by Donal Gallagher, brother of music legend Rory Gallagher.

Donal will be joined by special guests on the night. Acclaimed screen star Fiona Shaw will attend the showing of the poignant Out of Innocence on 13 November at the Triskel Christchurch, based on the controversial events in Kerry

in the 1980s which linked the secret birth of a stillborn baby and the brutal murder of another.

The Festival’s major Irish films include thriller I Am Not a Serial Killer at The Everyman on 17 November from Irish producer Nick Ryan (director, The Summit) and Cork native writer/director Billy O’Brien; along with Forever Pure on 18 November, a feature documentary about the most symbolic football club in Israel, Beitar Jerusalem.

Human rights activist and homelessness campaigner Fr Peter McVerry will take part in a panel discussion with Fiona Dukelow of the School of Applied Social Studies, UCC after a screening of the RTÉ documentary Peter McVerry:The View from the Basement. The Cork Film Festival also welcomes the return of Illuminate, a series of film and discussion events, which use film to explore different aspects of mental health. This is presented in association with Arts+Minds and the HSE Cork Mental Health Services.

With a range of brilliant films, engaging panel discussions and thought provoking documentaries, there is so much to enjoy at the Cork Film this year. It promises to be ten days of fantastic, intelligent entertainment with something for everyone to enjoy. www.corkfilmfest.org November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Munster

Cliffs of Moher

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Jameson Experience, Midleton Co.Cork

The Hunt Museum

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art.

One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Tours run all day, last tour 16.30pm. Adult rate is €15.00 and save 10% on adult admission by booking in advance online. bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com 32

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The Ring of Kerry (Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Midleton Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney river in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience.

The old distillery buildings have been restored to their original splendor, as they looked in 1805 when whiskey was first produced on this site.

Each tour culminates in the Jameson Bar with a complimentary glass of Jameson and a chance to become a “Qualified Irish Whiskey Taster”. Visitors can also enjoy a delicious lunch in the Malt House Restaurant or browse the Distillery shop, where you will find exclusive Jameson gifts.

Ring of Kerry

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912.

The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Gallery Zozimus

56 Francis Street, Dublin 8, PH : 4539057

Dublins Largest Ceramic Gallery incorporating Fine Art Over 70 Ceramic Artists on Show

Email: info@galleryzozimus.ie, Web: www.galleryzozimus.ie

Artisan Food and Drink Genovese Foods

Founded in 1999, Genovese Foods are the oldest manufacturers of fresh pesto in Ireland.

With over 50 years combined experience in the artisan and gourmet food sector, passionate foodies Enda McCormack and Gillian Toal believe that their recipes are only as good as their ingredients, and so all products are gluten-free, vegetarian and made

Dan Kelly’s Irish Cider Made from apples harvested from their own fruit farm in the Boyne Valley, Dan Kelly’s Irish Cider are one of the only cider producers in Ireland to grow their own fruit.

Cider apples are blended with Bramley and dessert apples to give the cider a dry finish, while the light carbonation allows the flavour of the apples to shine through.

Boyne Grove Fruit Farms Stameen, Drogheda, Co. Louth 041 9837333 www.dankellycider.com

Walsh Whiskey Distillery

from the finest locally sourced ingredients - as their motto goes; “Taste it and you Know”.

Their Pesto Verdi, as well as their recently launched Pesto Rosso and vegan friendly Tapenade Rustico are available in many of Ireland’s gourmet stores, such as Ardkeen.

They also firmly believe in quality handmade production systems to make the highest quality products and are currently working towards their Origin Green Charter to adhere to the highest standards in environmental recycling processes.

5 Oxmantown Lane, Dublin 7 01 4741044 Genovesefoods@gmail.com www.genovesefoods.com

Coffee House Lane

Established in 2001 by Father and Son team Stephen and Mark Bergin, Coffee House Lane select only the finest coffee beans from all over the world and roast them in small batches in their Toper Roaster. This gives each packet of Coffee House Lane a unique flavour. Available in Ardkeen Quality Foodstore, SuperValu stores across the country, as well as independent retailers, customers are also encouraged to pay them a visit and experience the roasting process for themselves. Coffee House Lane in Waterford was the site of Ireland’s very first CoffeeHouse and Ireland’s very first commercial cup of coffee in the year 1690, when John 'Aikenhead' owned the then popular establishment, and the Bergins pay tribute to him by naming one of their signature blends after him, and another after the year '1690'.

Established in 1999 by husband and wife, Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, and located in County Carlow on the 18th century Royal Oak estate in Ireland’s Ancient East region, Walsh Whiskey Distillery is a leading independent producer of super-premium, triple-distilled, craft, Irish whiskeys – The Irishman and Writers Tears.

Walsh Whiskey Distillery, Royal Oak, County Carlow, Ireland Tel: (059) 9186653 Email: booking@walshwhiskey.com Web: www.walshwhiskey.com 34

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Longueville House have been producing their own cider and apple brandy for over 30 years.

They use only heritage, heirloom Michelin and Dabinett apples, grown in the orchards in Blackwater valley to produce their delicious Longueville House Cider, free of additives and preservatives. This cider is then aged four years in oak red wine casks to produce their full-bodied Apple Brandy. As well as their high quality artisan drinks, this is the ideal venue for corporate events, offering visitors distillery tours, clay pigeon shooting and luncheon.

See their Facebook page (facebook.com/ LonguevilleHouse.ie) for some great recipes, including their delicious recipe for Mulled Longueville House Cider.

Mallow, Co. Cork 022 47156 www.longuevillehouse.ie

Unit 3, Kilcohan Industrial Complex, Kilcohan, Waterford Phone: 1890 242628

Set deep in the heart of barley-growing country, directly above the Barrow Valley Aquifer on the banks of the River Barrow, Royal Oak is the perfect place for creating exceptional quality whiskeys.

Longueville House

Ummera Smoked Products

For almost 40 years, Ummera Smoked Products have been producing some of the finest smoked products available. Their award winning smoked salmon, chicken, duck and bacon are full of natural flavour and texture thanks to their process of blending their products with careful curing and gently smoking over oak fires, using only the finest, natural ingredients.

Available at outlets nationwide, they also deliver internationally and all of their products are free from artificial preservatives. They welcome visitors to the smokehouse to experience, taste and smell their amazing food and discover how it’s made.

Inchybridge , Timoleague, Co. Cork Loc8Code: WND-86-6WN Eircode: P72 A265 023 8846644 www.ummera.com

The Breadski Brothers The Breadski Brothers are a dynamic trio, originally from Poland and now baking up a storm in Castlebar, Co. Mayo. These three brothers are passionate about real bread, breadmaking and ‘breaducation’. Well established within the Polish market in Ireland, they have recently begun baking for Irish taste buds and the results are astounding. Their

healthy, additive-free bread range includes the award winning Rye Bread with Cranberries; one of their two slow rise sourdough breads.

The Breadski Brothers also make a range of more than 40 cakes. Products are available in over 50 SuperValus, Corrib Oil stores, and more than 250 Polish stores nationwide.

Castlebar, Co. Mayo 01 960 9393, www.mmmfamilybakery.ie, www.thatbread.ie www.facebook.com/TheBreadskiBrothers

A Day in the Life of a Food Explorer

By Carl Mark O’Neill

, Carl Mark O Neill

M

y food adventures usually take me all over the country but this month I decided to stay at home and put on a cheese and craft beer tasting in the Tap House in Ranelagh. I love pairing cheese with craft beer and I wanted to give the locals in Ranelagh a chance to explore these great pairings with me.

Thanks to some generous donations from a range of Irish cheese producers, as well as Redmond’s off licence in Ranelagh, I set off to the Tap House laden with delicious food and drink for people to enjoy.

The Customers in the pub really enjoyed the pairings that I put together and discovered some wonderful taste combinations that they may never have had the chance of experiencing. There were a range of cheeses, beers and ciders to suit every palate - from Mescan sour beer to Longueville House & Dan Kelly’s cider paired with Milleen’s Oakwood smoked

Cheese by Quinlan Steele Some people loved the Tipperary Smoky brie from Cooleeney Farmhouse Cheese paired with the Torc Brewing Company Wheat Beer, while others went mad for the Cratloe Hills Sheep’s Cheese paired with Eight Degrees Pilsner.

Lovers of goat’s cheese could enjoy Cooleeney Gortnamona Cheese paired with O’Hara’s Irish Stout or The Five Lamps Black Pitts Porter. Wicklow Wolf IPA & O’Hara’s Opsession IPA worked really well with Mossfield Slieve Bloom Cheese.

It was great to see the people trying these combinations and then trying out combinations of their own - mixing different cheese with different beer. People may be familiar with wine and cheese pairings but craft beer and cheese work really well together too and luckily, here in Ireland we have a whole host of fantastic craft beer and cheese products that can be explored and paired together for magnificent taste experiences.

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Waterford Winterval Festival The special magic of Christmas in Ireland will come alive at the end of November as Waterford’s Winterval Festival returns for a fifth consecutive year from 25 November.

People of all ages can enjoy 30 different fun events and activities at Ireland’s biggest, brightest and best Christmas event, which saw over 500,000 people from at home and abroad attend last year.

The sparkling programme includes a multitude of free events as this year Winterval will shine brighter than ever with fun for families, couples and groups of friends looking to start their Christmas experience off in the best way possible.

Visitors can enjoy a horse drawn sleigh ride through the Mall, the Viking Triangle and John Robert’s Square or take the Winterval Express Train for a tour of all the festival’s attractions including the Carousel and the Giant Postbox where those all-important letters to Santa can be dropped off.

Pay a visit to Reginald’s Tower for some enchanting storytelling, marvel at the beautiful 36

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Christmas market where you can savour top class food and find unique gifts for family and friends, and take a ride on the spectacular Vintage Ferris Wheel.

Winterval Illuminates in Cathedral Square is another unmissable stop on the Christmas adventure.The now famous light show projects onto the Deanery Building and will see the Square burst into life and light.This year promises to be better than ever thanks to a whole host of new features and 3D animation which will transform the area into a magical place of light and colour.This spectacular show is absolutely free and is sure to be one of the highlights of the festival.

Ireland’s oldest city also plays host to Waterford on Ice, the National Reptile Zoo and twice daily screenings of How the Grinch Stole Christmas at Movies at The Reg. Of course, the man himself will be in attendance throughout the festival. Santa’s Grotto at the Medieval Museum is a real treat for all the family with the awestruck amazement in every child’s eye a thing of pure

magic. En route to see Santa Claus, families will be able to explore the Enchanted Gardens and the elves’ living quarters before they visit the the jolly man in red, who will have a chat, present a gift and pose for a photo that will live long in the memory.

The free Toy Museum is always worth a visit at Winterval.This years theme is “Gaming Through the Ages”, where visitors will be able to see and play some of the first video games ever invented. It’s a journey back to where gaming started and offers a chance to see up close how gaming has evolved over the years fascinating for children and sure to be a fun trip down memory lane for their parents.

There’s so much to see and do for everyone at Winterval and Waterford is once again the place to be this Christmas. We recommend booking tickets in advance so weekends can be spent exploring this interactive medieval city to the fullest.The Winterval Festival takes place from 25 - 27 November, 2 - 4 December, 8 11 December and 15 - 23 December. www.winterval.ie

Guided Factory Tours Daily Waterford Brand & Visitor Experience

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000.

Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht.

The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right.

Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim.

Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all.

Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Explore Connaught

Lovely Leitrim Barge Holiday Boatel Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

You can book online at www.bargeholidayboatel.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Mary McInerney and Jorn Bjerknes invite you to join them on their luxury custom made barge for an unforgettable experience traversing the Shannon waterways.

Whether you fancy going fishing, a leisurely cruise down the Shannon, going for a round of golf, or anything else you can think of, Mary and Jorn are happy to cater to what is required.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe.

Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

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Recommended Shopping Irish Linen House

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland.

Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

Mitchell & Son

Mitchell & Son have been trading in Dublin since the 19th century and are the only wine company in Ireland that is run by descendants of its founder. They offer high quality wine, champagne and spirits from all over the world, including their Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskey, as well as Riedel Glassware. They also run wine appreciation courses that teach you how to get the best from your bottle of wine and give you an understanding of the Irish wine market.

Best prices on Irish Aran Sweaters Since 1986 The Sweater Shop is a family run business offering a large selection of quality Irish Aran sweaters at reasonable prices, as well as fine merino and cashmere for men, women and children.

They also stock a range of caps, scarves and accessories to suit all budgets, making any of their Dublin, Kilkenny, or Galway shops the perfect place to shop for truly authentic Irish gifts.

30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 Abbeygate Street, Galway High Street, Kilkenny Tel: 01 6712292 www.sweatershop.com

Tights Department

Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

CHQ, IFSC, Dublin 1, 01 612 5540 54 Glasthule Rd. Sandycove, Co. Dublin 01 230 2301 www.mitchellandson.com

25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. 085 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Jam Art Factory

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row.

64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 40

The Sweater Shop

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Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands and Tax Free shopping to non EU residents.

53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Daylemonn Designs

Daylemonn Designs are a family run business with over 25 years experience in interior design and design retail. The company's conceptual basis and ethos is largely influenced by the Dutch model (where the family originate from) of specialist interior boutiques. With a vast and varied knowledge in interior design, they provide a professional service to all of their clients, both nationally and internationally.

At their Clonmel and Dublin stores, they focus on retailing an extensive range of furniture, soft furnishings, giftware and accessories. They run a comprehensive consultancy service from their design studio where they also house a large collection of fabrics and wallpapers. Their dedicated design team is always on hand for consultation and advice.

60 Camden Street, Dublin 2 www.daylemonndesigns.com info@daylemonndesigns.com +353 (0)1 4458725 Davis Road, Clonmel, Co. Tipperary +353 (0)86 1893079

The Kilkenny Shop

The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium for Irish designed products; from fashion and jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce.

6 Nassau Street Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier whiskey shop has become a mecca for whiskey lovers since it first opened in 2003. They have daily whiskey tastings and the knowledgeable and experienced staff are always on hand to offer their expert advice and guidance. If you’re travelling, the staff are happy to wrap your purchases in protective wrapping and can arrange shipping to national and international destinations.

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products.

The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists.

Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

The Design House

27 - 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 9744 / 01 675 9768 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Cows Lane Designer Studio

Cows Lane Designer Studio is a colourful, fun retail space run by a group of independent designers and makers. With an eclectic mix of handcrafted, Irish designs including textiles, knitwear, jewellery, millinery, ceramics, prints, homewares and more, there is something for everyone. The perfect place to browse and be inspired!

Unit 2, Essex Street West, Old City, Temple Bar, Dublin 8. Tel: 01 679 8366 Info@clds.ie www.cowslanedesignerstudio.ie

“The Design House” is a boutique & design Hub, in the city centre. It is based in a fabulous Georgian building; they offer cutting edge fashion, jewellery, bridal and a variety of crafts all in the one building.

The hallways of their building also host an artist’s gallery. The list of designers who call “The Design house” home has grown steadily since they opened.

They are also the creative home to several in-house designers, that work from 2 floors of shared studio space and professional fashion workrooms .

The concept behind their enterprise is to bring designers, craftspeople and artists together under one roof and to offer the customer a wide array of high quality products, all at varied price points and services such as their bespoke service and café.

43 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6799283 www.thedesignhouse.ie

Aran Sweater Market

Celebrating the long and fascinating history of Aran Knitwear, the Aran Sweater Market offers the perfect souvenir of your Irish Journey. With roots in Inis Mor, the very centre of where Aran craft first began, you can also find the brand in Dublin’s Grafton Street and Killarney, Co. Kerry, as well as its home on the Aran Islands. Shoppers can look forward to a unique shopping experience with a large range of Aran and Celtic inspired knitwear and gifts available. The Aran Sweater Market brand offers a large range of Aran and Celtic inspired knitwear for all the family. www.AranSweaterMarket.com

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands when you visit this store.

They offer the finest quality, waterproof Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure from €425 as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories.

Green Gallery

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 608 8608 www.franciscampelli.com

For over 20 years The Green Gallery, on the top floor of St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, has led the way in Dublin’s contemporary art market.

Here you will find original, quality works of art from emerging, established and international artists. No trip to Stephen’s Green is complete without visiting this unique gallery. Open 7 days.

Mention Travel Ireland Magazine to avail of a 10% discount.

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland.

They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Top Floor, St Stephen’s Green Centre Dublin 2 Tel: 0851988441 www.greengallery.ie

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com

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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

The Cottage Restaurant

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.

Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”

Sea Road, Galway City.

Tel: 091 526 003

Eala Bhán

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Waterfront House Restaurant

Ireland’s largest stockist of Designer Sunglasses If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120

The Yew Tree Restaurant

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Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone.

The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland.

County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak.

The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44

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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well.

Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Reeling in the Years

by Cynthia Moran-Killeavy at Gallery Zozimus

Sculptor Cynthia Moran-Killeavy has packed an awful lot into her 86 years and she’s still going strong and working on new material. She will bring some of those new works, along with some of her past gems to a new exhibition at Gallery Zozimus - Reeling in the Years.

These outstanding bronze, stone and wood sculptures traverse Moran-Killeavy’s rich and varied career, which has taken her from Ireland, to London, to Spain and back to Ireland again.

Born in County Kildare, Moran-Killeavy, comes from an artistic family. Her late sister is the painter Frances Bunch Moran. Cynthia attended evening classes at the National College of Art in Dublin before moving to London in the 1950s to study sculpture at St Martin’s College of Art. Following a family bereavement, she moved to Spain in 1964.

Initially an English teacher in Madrid, she couldn’t ignore the call of art and she soon completed a degree in Interior Design, followed by two further degrees in Wood Carving and Stone Carving before interning with the stone sculptors Enrique Cabilo and Rafial Mortol. She then set up her own studio, concentrating on her bronze and stone work.

As her reputation grew, she was invited to speak at symposia in Portugal, Spain and Ireland and became associated with Jackie McKenna and Seamus Dunbar, the founders of The Sculpture Centre in Manorhamilton, Co. Leitrim. She has had a number of large public commissions in Spain and Portugal such as the stone sculpture in Picasso Park in Salamanca and a marble sculpture in Borba, Portugal.

In Ireland, she had a sculpture commissioned by the Minister of the Gaeltacht and the Islands, which now stands on Mespil Road in Dublin. She was also commissioned by the owners of St Mary’s Church in Dublin (which is now a popular bar and restaurant) to create a sculpture to commemorate the wedding of Arthur Guinness, who married in the church in 1761.

Even now, Cynthia Moran-Killeavy is still producing exciting new work and her exhibition in Gallery Zozimus promises a fascinating journey through her career, along with some exciting new pieces. Reeling in the Years opens on 17 November and will run until 5 December. www.galleryzozimus.ie

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Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast.

Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there.

In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore.

You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

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The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness.

Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories.

Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal.

Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Recommended Pubs in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace!

Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore.

Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 November 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014.

Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

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Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - November 2016

Great Irish Writers

John Millington Synge

I

n spite of his short life, John Millington Synge had a huge effect on Irish literature. A founder of the Abbey Theatre, Synge’s work was incredibly provocative and controversial in his own lifetime and would later go on to influence other Irish literary giants, including Sean O’Casey, Brendan Behan and Samuel Beckett.

Born into an Anglo-Irish family in Rathfarnham, Dublin on 16 April 1871, Synge enjoyed a happy childhood although he was often ill. He was educated privately in Dublin and Bray and studied piano, flute, violin and music theory at the Royal Irish Academy of Music. He then went to Trinity College in 1889 to study Irish and Hebrew, graduating in 1892. It was around this time that he developed an interest in Irish antiquities and the Aran Islands and published his first poem in 1893.

Born into an Anglo-Irish family in Rathfarnham, Dublin on 16 April 1871, Synge enjoyed a happy childhood although he was often ill. He was educated privately in Dublin and Bray and studied piano, flute, violin and music theory at the Royal Irish Academy of Music. He then went to Trinity College in 1889 to study Irish and Hebrew, graduating in 1892. It was around this time that he developed an interest in Irish antiquities and the Aran Islands, publishing his first poem in 1893.

He initially moved to Germany to pursue a career in music but, partly due to shyness and partly due to doubts about his ability, he decided to pursue a literary career instead and travelled to France and Italy before moving to the Aran Islands at the urging of WB Yeats. He suffered his first attack of Hodgkin’s disease in 1897 and then spent the next five summers in the Aran Islands, collecting stories and folklore and perfecting his Irish while living in Paris the rest of the year.

His experiences on the Aran Islands would form the basis for

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Photograph Mark Nixon

the plays about rural Irish life that he would become known for.

He wrote his first play When The Moon Has Set around this time and sent it to Lady Gregory, with whom he had formed the Irish National Theatre Society in 1896 along with Yeats and George William Russell. This play was rejected by Lady Gregory but his next two efforts, Riders to the Sea and The Shadow of the Glen were accepted, with the latter forming part of the bill for the opening run of the Abbey Theatre from 27 December 1904 to 3 January 1905.

Synge sat on the board of directors of the Abbey with Yeats and Lady Gregory but he disagreed with their vision for Irish theatre. Synge argued that Irish theatre should be rooted in realism. His ideology would eventually win out and set the tone for the style of plays in the Abbey until the 1940s.

However, his work also provoked a great deal of controversy.

His next play, The Well of the Saints, received huge criticism from nationalists when it opened in 1905 for its portrayal of women and religion, although this would prove to be quite minor compared to his next work - The Playboy of the Western World. Now considered a classic of Irish literature, the play caused riots on the first night and was again the subject of much criticism from nationalists, including Arthur Griffith.

Unfortunately, Synge’s greatest work would prove to be one of his last as the Hodgkin’s disease returned and he died in March 1909 at the age of just 37. His legacy lives on in the work of countless others that he has influenced and he will forever retain his place in Irish history thanks to his involvement in founding the Abbey Theatre. In recent years, his cottage on the Aran Islands has been restored and is now a museum dedicated to the life and work of this great Irish writer.