Travelireland Volume 6 Issue 64 August 2019
magazine
New Dublin Music Festival to be a
Sensation Iconic Cliffs of Moher Tower Reopens Kilkenny Arts Festival’s Killer Programme Pat Liddy Takes a Stroll in the
Irish National War Memorial Gardens
DoDublin and the Capital’s Top Distilleries Get Ready to Rock at
Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival
Hook Lighthouse to Help
‘Save Our Seas’
Miami Showband Story – Legendary Irish Band Honoured with New Musical
MCD PRESENTS
NOW RUNNING | OLYMPIA THEATRE
TICKETS (INC BOOKING FEE) FROM TICKETMASTER.IE • 0818 719 300 (IRE) • 0844 847 2455 (NI) *PHONE & INTERNET BOOKINGS SUBJECT TO 12.5% SERVICE CHARGE PER TICKET (MAX €7.15), AGENTS €3.40 PER TICKET
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Welcome to Leinster Love Sensation Kilkenny Arts Festival Theatre Irish National War Memorial Gardens by Pat Liddy TG4 All-Ireland Finals Day Shopping Explore Leinster DoDublin Leinster Restaurants Leinster Bars Welcome to Munster Explore Munster Cliffs of Moher Cobh Heritage Centre Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival Munster Bars Munster Restaurants Spike Island Welcome to Connaught Explore Connaught Hook Lighthouse Connaught Bars Connaught Restaurants Welcome to Ulster Ulster Bars The Miami Showband Story Explore Ulster Ulster Restaurants Great Irish Writers
Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag
Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our August issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. This month, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country. These include new Dublin music festival Love Sensation, the Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival in Co Waterford and the Kilkenny Arts Festival. We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see – including new musical The Miami Showband Story – as well as on Dublin’s top distilleries which you can visit thanks to DoDublin Bus Tours. Meanwhile Pat Liddy discusses the history of the capital’s Irish National War Memorial Gardens. The magazine also highlights new developments at Co Clare’s Cliffs of Moher and Co Wexford’s Hook Lighthouse. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).
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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without
GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible
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Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ
St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough
All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the
smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a
Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
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Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.
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The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1
New Dublin Music Festival Set to Be A A brand-new shining beacon of an Irish festival titled Love Sensation is coming to the Royal Hospital Kilmainham in Dublin on Saturday, August 17 and Sunday, August 18.
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Sensation
The event is a two-day music and arts festival aimed at the LGBT+ community and their many friends. Founded by the team behind popular night club Mother, various Irish and international headliners will top the bill across the weekend. One major headliner at the festival’s inaugural year is acclaimed English singer-songwriter Lily Allen. Best known for hit singles ‘Smile’, ‘The Fear’, ‘Not Fair’, and ‘22’, she released her fourth album No Shame last year to positive reviews. Taking to the stage also is American R&B singer Kelis. Famous for tracks like ‘Milkshake’, ‘Trick Me’, ‘Acapella’ and for featuring on Calvin Harris’ hit single ‘Bounce’, the singersongwriter has been recognized at the Brit Awards, Q Awards, NME Awards and Grammy Awards ceremonies. Another prominent headliner is American indie band Gossip, renowned for anthems ‘Standing in the Way of Control’ and ‘Heavy Cross’. Fronted by Beth Ditto, the group’s Love Sensation set will be the final date on their reunion tour to mark the 10th anniversary of their 2009 record Music for Men. British dance pop trio Clean Bandit will also perform at Love
Sensation. The group are best known for UK chart topping singles ‘Solo’ featuring Demi Lovato, ‘Symphony’ featuring Zara Larsson, ‘Rockabye’ featuring Sean Paul and AnneMarie and ‘Rather Be’ featuring Jess Glynne. The latter earned the band a Grammy Award in 2015 for Best Dance Recording. Other musicians taking to the main stage include two-time Choice Music ‘Irish Song of the Year’ nominee Soule, Dublin electronic band Le Galaxie, rising Irish pop artist Miss Kate and Munster pop-funk outfit Toucan. Panti Bliss - performer, writer and landlady of the iconic Pantibar - will host the main stage over the two days. Meanwhile, expect tons of surprises from The George stage, a Mother Dance Tent and a host of RuPaul Drag Queens brought to you by Dublin drag legends ‘Dragged Up’. The latter include Monet X Change, Naomi Smalls, Jujubee, Laganja Estranja and Sonique. Speaking about the festival, Love Sensation promoter and founder of Mother, Cormac Cashman, said in a statement: “Love Sensation feels like a natural progression for us. We’ve wanted to run a music festival for years, something that caters to
our community and focuses on inclusivity, fun, good music, good times and sound people. We’ve been lucky enough to have amazing success with our Pride Block Party (which just celebrated its 9th year last June) so 2019 feels right for us to grow even bigger and launch our very own music festival.” The weekend will also see performances from Daithi, Elm, Prymary Colours and Raw Silk. On top of this, there will be DJ sets from the likes of Andy Butler of Hercules & Love Affair, Conor Behan, Honey Dijon, Horse Meat Disco, Jenny Greene, Karen Reddy, Kelly-Anne Byrne, Sink the Pink DJs and Stephen Dowling. Organisers of Love Sensation say the LGBT+ community, along with their many allies, should enjoy the weekend taking place in the heart of Dublin. They have also stated it will be the ‘most colourful festival Ireland will see this summer.” For more information about Love Sensation’s line-up and stage times, visit the festival’s website at www. lovesensation.ie. Meanwhile, to book tickets for the festival, visit www.ticketmaster. ie. Day tickets cost from €65.70, whereas a weekend ticket costs from €116.25. AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Kilkenny Arts Festival’s Killer Programme Kilkenny Arts Festival returns August 8 – 18, boasting a programme packed with a diverse array of theatre, music, literature, exhibitions, talks, dance, spectacle and surprise.
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Since its foundation in 1974, the event has gathered many of the world’s finest musicians, performers, writers and artists in Ireland’s medieval city. This year is no different. One major headliner this August is acclaimed Irish actor Ciaran Hinds. He will take to the stage to play narrator, soldier and devil in a concert performance of Stravinsky’s masterpiece The Soldier’s Tale at The Watergate Theatre Kilkenny Arts Festival, through coproductions and supporting companies, continues to bring new works to the stage. This year the festival will collaborate with leading independent theatre company Rough Magic on two new productions. The first is a contemporary staging of Shakespeare’s beloved screwball comedy Much Ado About Nothing, performed at The Quad at St Kieran’s College. The other is Cleft, by Fergal McElherron, a dark, visceral, folkloric tale about one family’s unrelenting will to survive. Starring Simone Kirby (The Hole in the Ground), it will be staged at The Watergate Theatre. Asylum Productions, Kilkenny Arts Festival with the support of the Abbey Theatre will present the world premiere of a unique theatrical experience, The Big Chapel X. Based on The Big Chapel by Thomas Kilroy, it’s a fictionalised retelling of real events that occurred in the 1870s in Callan, Kilkenny. This
radical adaptation sees the people of the town (supported by a team of professional theatre artists) retelling their own story, using the place itself as a stage. This will be accompanied by a special programme of events exploring the impact of Kilkenny on Kilroy’s work, the unique challenges of staging the production in Callan and an architecture project which reimagines Callan’s regeneration and redevelopment as a pilot town for Project Ireland 2040. As well as lighting up stages and venues, this year the festival will brighten up two of the city’s most iconic spaces. The walls of Kilkenny Castle will be lit up by a light show with panoramic viewing at the Rose Garden. Meanwhile, a multi-sensory experience titled Flux will take place inside St Canice’s Cathedral - mixing screens, projection, live organ, live electronics and tape. The festival’s classical music programme offers a mix of debuts and returning talent performing works from the likes of Bach, Beethoven, Brahms, Debussy, Listz and Mozart. There will also be a special screening of the 1931 Dracula with a live score composed and performed by Sean MacErlaine leading a quartet of musicians and singer Sharon Phelan. In terms of visual arts, the festival will present the first exhibition in Ireland of New York-based artist Amy Cutler, as well as works
from the locally based Eamon Colman and Blaise Smith. There will also be group exhibitions taking place at the National Design and Craft Gallery (Crowded Thresholds) and the Kilkenny Arts Office Gallery (The Encounter That Never Was). A programme of spoken word will see readings from poets Don Peterson, Mícheál ‘Moley’ O’Súilleabháin and Cherry Smyth, the latter delivering a lyrical lament to the forgotten stories of the Irish famine with Famished. Author Niamh Boyce will also read from her acclaimed new novel Her Kind – a gripping account of the Kilkenny witch trial - while famed journalist Fintan O’Toole discusses the ongoing Brexit dramatics through the prism of his widely acclaimed book Heroic Failure. A varied music programme will see new interpretations of old favourites, the return of familiar faces and the chance to discover new work. For example, classical musicians Wooden Elephant will perform their own interpretation of two iconic and instantly classic albums, Bjork’s Homogenic and Radiohead’s masterpiece Kid A. Mark and Marichka Marczyk return to the festival with brand new show Balaklava Blues, mixing vocals and electronic dance beats against a backdrop of footage from the front
lines of Ukraine’s Maidan revolution, transporting the audience into the wartorn country. Visitors can also experience the Rollercoaster Sessions. Here audiences can discover two up-and-coming bands from the thriving music scenes of Kilkenny and Dublin in a double bill The Wha and Sick Love. On top of this, there will be gigs from the soulful David Keenan, one of rock’s most singular performers Cathal Coughlan, American indie band Arborist and art-folk electronic musician Seamus Fogarty. Returning too is Secret Garden Music, a strand of ever surprising mini pop-up performances by festival artists in some of Kilkenny’s loveliest spaces. No details of performers taking part are announced in advance. You never know who might turn up. For more information, details of other events taking place at Kilkenny Arts Festival and to purchase tickets, visit kilkennyarts.ie.
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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre London Astrobeat Orchestra
gather to help her claim the winnings, all bets are off. In a special summer offer, theatre goers can see both shows for just €40 when tickets are booked at the same time. Dates: Jun 24 – Aug 10 / Jun 14 – Aug 3 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie
Comprised of the finest West African session musicians alive, London Astrobeat Orchestra will perform songs from the iconic Talking Heads movie Stop Making Sense. Considering the afrobeat vibes that run through all the best of David Byrne and co’s albums, it’s appropriate that this collective of musicians should offer their completely unique, razor sharp, liquid funk and jaw-droppingly tight take on Talking Heads’ timeless compositions.
Also at the Abbey this month: Young Curators Festival Jul 29 – Aug 10, We Can’t Have Monkeys in the House Aug 1 – 3, Superstructure Aug 7 – 8, Summertime Aug 7 - 8, Where Are You From? Aug 9 – 10, Ask Too Much of Me Aug 19 – 24, The Hunger Aug 19 – 24,
Former Secret Service agent turned bodyguard, Frank Farmer, is hired to protect superstar Rachel Marron from an unknown stalker. Each expects to be in charge – what they don’t expect is to fall in love. Based on the 1992 blockbuster romantic thriller, this international awardwinning smash hit musical stars X-Factor winner Alexandra Burke (at evening performances only) performing irresistible classics like ‘I Wanna Dance With Somebody’ and the legendary ‘I Will Always Love You.’ Dates: Aug 7 - 17 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gais this month: Club Tropicana Jul 30 – Aug 3, Kinky Boots Aug 19 - 31
Based on Roddy Doyle’s classic novel and the second entry in his acclaimed Barrytown Trilogy of books, The Snapper revolves around the unmarried Sharon Rabbitte’s pregnancy, and the unexpected effects this has on her conservative, working class Dublin family. Veteran actor Simon Delaney stars as Sharon’s father Jimmy Snr – a role previously made famous onscreen by Colm Meaney in The Commitments. Dates: Jun 6 – Aug 24 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie
Two smash-hit shows return to The Abbey this summer. In Roddy Doyle’s Two Pints, two men meet for drinks. They talk about their Da’s, death, Nigella, North Korea and the afterlife. Meanwhile, Deirdre Kinahan’s The Unmanageable Sisters is set in Ballymun 1974 when mother Ger wins a million Green Shield stamps. With them she can get almost anything she wants. However, when 15 friends and family 10
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The Gaiety Theatre Riverdance
A theatrical show consisting mainly of traditional Irish music and dance, Riverdance originated as an interval act during the 1994 Eurovision Song Contest, earning a standing ovation and going down in history as one of the event’s most famed moments. After witnessing the enthusiasm for the performance, $1 million was invested into producing a full-length touring theatrical show. Opening in Dublin in 1995, since then Riverdance has been performed over 11,500 times to a live audience of over 25 million people in 515 venues worldwide, throughout 47 countries across 6 continents. Dates: Jun 11 - Sep 15 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie
Smock Alley Theatre The Roaring Banshees
Also at the Gate this month: Muldoon’s Picnic Aug 4
The Olympia Theatre Little Miss Sunshine © Richard H. Smith
The Abbey Theatre
Two Pints / The Unmanageable Sisters
Also at the Olympia this month: Copper Face Jacks: The Musical Jul 10 – Aug 10, Tinder – A Musical Comedy Aug 20 – 24, A Murder is Announced Aug 26 – 31.
The Snapper by Roddy Doyle
Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: Solar Bones Aug 1
The Bodyguard
Dates: Aug 13 - 17 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie
The Gate Theatre
Dates: Aug 3 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie
Bord Gáis Energy Theatre
their rickety, yellow VW camper van. Can it survive the 800-mile trip from New Mexico to California? More importantly, can they?
Based on the Academy Award-winning film, Little Miss Sunshine centres on the Hoover family – including overworked mother Sheryl (Irish actress Lucy O’Byrne, The Voice). Together, they have had more than a few troubles. Yet young Olive has her heart set on winning the Little Miss Sunshine beauty contest. When an invitation to compete comes out of the blue, the Hoovers must pile into
Set in 1923, after a failed assassination attempt on Eamon de Valera, a rogue Cumann na mBán unit flee across the Atlantic to escape the law. With Prohibition in full swing, they earn their keep by making bootleg poitín and selling it on to the Chicago mob. But it’s not long before a gang war breaks out with them caught in the middle, and the lethal skills they honed back home hunting Black and Tans are taken to the bullet-strewn streets of the Windy City. Dates: Aug 12 - 31 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com Also at Smock Alley this month: Bright Eyes Aug 19 – 31
Irish National War Memorial Gardens by Pat Liddy
W
hen Britain declared war on Germany on August 4, 1914, Ireland was part of the United Kingdom. The decade leading up to this cataclysmic occasion was one of political stirrings against British rule in Ireland and the stage was being set for revolution. But once ‘little Belgium’ was invaded, the preparations being made in Ireland for any uprising were, in the main, shelved and over the next four years over 300,000 Irishmen donned the uniform of the British Army, many in newly formed Irish divisions. After all, Home Rule for Ireland had been promised when Germany was defeated. When the war ended in November 1918, over 49,000 Irishmen had been killed in the fields of France, Flanders and Gallipoli. As the survivors trickled home throughout 1919 the older veterans found a very different Ireland than the one they had left some few years before. The War of Independence against Britain had commenced, another bloody conflict that would not end until 1921, followed by the emergence of the Irish Free State in 1922. This did not mean that many still felt that the Irish dead of the Great War should not be suitably honoured. Beginning in 1919, plans were advanced to build a national war memorial somewhere in Dublin. A fund was launched which in the first year raised a staggering £45,000 (worth around €2.5 million today). Many discussions took place at various levels but over the
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next few years the Government, which generally supported the project, was in a difficult position. It was being pulled by a nationalistic dynamic which didn’t want any further political or militaristic association with Britain. In the end the building of the gardens received the go-ahead with the full support of Government and in 1929 a suitable site was made available along the banks of the River Liffey at the Longmeadows Estate in Islandbridge. To ensure a memorial of the highest standards a famous English (but with an Irish mother) landscape architect, Edwin Lutyens, was appointed to carry out the design. He was no stranger to Ireland having laid out several other gardens in the country. He was ably assisted by an Office of Public Works architect, TJ Byrne. Incidentally, Lutyens also designed the Cenotaph in London, the Thiepval Arch at the Somme, the British Embassy in Washington and the Viceroy’s Palace in New Delhi. Work commenced in 1933 (the year Hitler came to power!) and the labour was provided equally by ex-servicemen from the Irish National Army and the British Army. To provide as much work as possible at a time of high unemployment, the use of mechanical equipment was restricted, and even granite blocks of 7 and 8 tonnes were manhandled into place with primitive tackles of poles and ropes. All was ready by July 1939, but the growing threat of another war caused a postponement of the official opening and, in fact, there would never
be an official opening! The period from the 1940s up to the early 1980s saw a gradual deterioration of the condition of the Memorial Gardens, mainly caused by apathy and even antipathy towards them while Ireland was struggling to find its own identity in the modern world. Thankfully by the 1980s there was a realisation that something should be done to rehabilitate the 8-hectare site with the result that they are the largest war memorial gardens in either Ireland or Britain and are also among the most magnificent to be found anywhere. On entering the main arena, so to speak, a visitor will see a very symmetrical design. In the centre is the War Stone, representing an altar of remembrance. On its southern side is the tall Great Cross of Sacrifice and behind it a terrace of steps with flanking text-engravings saluting the dead of both world wars. To either side of the War Stone are the fountains with stone obelisks rising from the water dishes. These represent candles. Then just beyond the fountains are oak-topped pergolas, each ending with a Bookroom, four in total. The granite Bookrooms were designed to hold the decorated registers (eight volumes) containing the names and other details of 49,435 Irishmen killed in the First World War. These men served in the British Army. There were probably thousands of others who served with the armies of other allies and who are not recorded here. The books are a great resource for checking
family genealogy and, for convenience, all the names are available digitally in one of the bookrooms. However, the Bookrooms are not generally open to the public except on special open days, when there is a constable present or by request (see below). On the other side of each pair of Bookrooms are the lovely sunken gardens composed of concentric terraces descending to circular pools dotted with water lilies. The pergolas and terraces are entwined with a colourful abundance of
roses specially chosen for the site. The gardens themselves are set into a wonderful park landscape of tree-lined avenues and river walks. Between the central area and the River Liffey is a small temple. On the floor of this tiny building are inscribed some lines of poetry taken from the War Sonnet by Rupert Brooke who later died from sepsis on his way to Gallipoli in 1915. Take a walk down to the river itself and discover what you won’t see in the city centre; a totally freshwater river. By the time it reaches the city it is tidal and brackish.
The Irish National War Memorial, often the scene for Government commemorations and ceremonies (Queen Elizabeth II came in 2011), can be entered from Con Colbert Road (for instance, if you are coming from Kilmainham Gaol) or from the South Circular Road at the Phoenix Park end (if you are coming by car). It’s gardens are open during daylight hours. Guided tours are available upon request. For more information, telephone: +353 1 475 7816 or email: info@heritageireland.ie.
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TG4 All-Ireland Finals Day Tickets Now on Sale
“A feeling like no other.” That’s what it’s like to play at Croke Park on TG4 All-Ireland Final Day, according to Dublin star Carla Rowe.
rtsfile
dan Moran/Spo
Photos © Bren
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In front of a record 50,141 attendance at Croke Park last September, Rowe scored two goals as Dublin retained the All-Ireland Senior title and the Brendan Martin Cup. “The excitement and nerves are unbelievable – and to be able to go out and play in front of so many people is just brilliant,” says Rowe. “I started playing football when I was 13 and from the age of 14, I realised this was something I could do one day. I made that my goal – to one day play at Croke Park.” Dublin experienced the heartbreak of losing senior finals in 2014, 2015 and 2016, all against Cork, before defeating Mayo in the 2017 decider, and Cork in 2018. The difference between winning and losing at Croke Park is “chalk and cheese,” explains Cork captain Doireann O’Sullivan. “I’ve lost one AllIreland Final at Croke Park and won five. Given the loss was the most recent final, we are more determined than ever to get back on top and get back to winning.” “Winning in Croke Park is unbelievable – it
makes every tough training session and sacrifice made throughout the year worth it,” says O’Sullivan. “That moment when the final whistle blows is indescribable. You’re so emotionally drained from the build-up and the match itself, you’re almost too tired to celebrate. It’s just a combination of happiness and relief.” “Losing in Croke Park is a lonely place – it’s a combination of jealousy and regret. You’re jealous of what you’re missing out on and what the opposition team has achieved. You regret every mistake you made and replay those mistakes over and over in your head for months to come.” TG4 All-Ireland Finals Day is the annual highlight of the Ladies Gaelic Football Association calendar, and the day when the All-Ireland Junior, Intermediate and Senior champions are crowned. You can be part of the action by getting your tickets for the Finals on Sunday, September 15, now. They are available online at lgfa.tickets.ie, at all usual GAA outlets, and by contacting the Ladies Gaelic Football Association office on 01-8363156 or info@lgfa.ie.
ALL-IRELAND
L ADIES FOOTBALL FINALS Croke Park
Sunday, 15th of September, 2019
TICKETS ON SALE NOW!
lgfa.tickets.ie All usual GAA ticket outlets LGFA Office: 01-836 3156 or info@lgfa.ie
n a f r e p o r #p
Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre
Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie
Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com
Jam Art Factory
Courtville: Antique & Vintage Jewellers
Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece. Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6794042
Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.
Celtic Whiskey Shop
Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com
Mourne Antiques
Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)
Designer Exchange
Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 16
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - AUGUST 2019
Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd
Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com
Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop
The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com
James Fox
Puro
Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406
The Kilkenny Shop
Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie
Mackintosh by Francis Campelli
Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com
Irish Linen House
For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie
Amelia’s Irish Design
Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774
46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com
Article
This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Explore Leinster
The Chester Beatty Library
The War Memorial Gardens When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816
Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie
Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin
If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406
The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750
The National Museum of Ireland
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984
The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie
Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie
Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - AUGUST 2019
DoDublin and The Capital’s Top Distilleries
Dublin ticks all the boxes for a city break. Whether you’re interested in history, art or literature, there are options aplenty at its National Museums, National Gallery, and other attractions. Meanwhile, for those looking to go out and explore the capital’s nightlife, the city is bustling with café’s and world-famous pubs, as well as one of the globe’s most famous tourist attractions – Guinness Storehouse. Whatever you choose to visit, DoDublin Bus Tours offer the ultimate Dubliner’s Guide to Dublin, providing the ideal way to view the city.
Another area that’s becoming increasingly popular for visitors is the capital’s recently opened world class whiskey attractions. Dublin’s whiskey scene has been quietly growing and becoming a global leader in whiskey tours. Until recently, Jameson Distillery was one of the only attractions in the field. In 2015, however, Teeling Whiskey Distillery opened its doors in the Liberties right in the heart of the city, followed by Pearse Lyons Whiskey Distillery in late 2017. Now, there’s also Dublin Liberties Distillery and Roe & Co, allowing great choice for tourists. Dublin has a rich history in whiskey making going back to around 1400, almost 100 years before Scotland. Although not widely known, Ireland and indeed Dublin led the way in the world whiskey market. That is until a perfect storm led to its demise – the introduction
of prohibition in the US, the Irish Civil War, and, probably most significantly, Irish whiskey producers’ reluctance to take advantage of the invention of the column still - a more efficient method of distilling. This was an invention adopted willingly by Scottish whisky producers. DoDublin’s world famous hop on hop off tour is a great way to travel to all of Dublin’s best whiskey attractions. Celebrating over 30 years as Dublin’s original and leading tour provider, DoDublin remains the city’s highest rated hop on hop off tour, with guides who are born and bred Dubliners that know the capital better than anyone. Dubliners are known for the “craic”, and for not taking themselves too seriously. This is certainly true of the DoDublin Tour Guides. Knowing how to strike the perfect balance between informative and entertaining, DoDublin guides are natural hosts. Their infectious enthusiasm for their hometown is evident to see. Dublin city itself is teeming with personality and is proud of its reputation as one of the friendliest places in the world. It’s full of history, character and fun and DoDublin’s guides will bring you to experience the best of it. From The Irish Emigration Museum at EPIC and the Jeanie Johnston ship in the historic Dublin Docklands to the sights, sounds and smells of Teeling Whiskey Distillery, the Guinness Storehouse and Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin has so much to offer. A hop on hop off tour allows visitors to unlock more of the city, making it easier to visit
attractions and fit lots more activities into a short space of time. Hopping on a DoDublin bus tour offers the perfect mix. Visitors will learn, experience, and have great craic along the way with some of the best whiskey guides in Dublin, and Fáilte Ireland trained tour guides on-board their bus tour. Redefine your definition of what a hop on hop off tour can be on Dublin’s original city sightseeing tour. For more information, visit dodublin.ie. AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant
Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050
Le Bon Crubeen
Silken Thomas
Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com
Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.
Peploe’s
Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com
Cliff Townhouse
Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie
81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie
Mexico to Rome
Zaytoon
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Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.
A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.
14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie
3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - AUGUST 2019
Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie
ASADOR
Café Topolis
The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie
La Ruelle Wine Bar
37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961
Cirillo’s
‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.
The Left Bank Bistro
Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie
Salamanca
Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.
Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.
140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie
1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Bars in Leinster
The Duke
Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553
Sin É
Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is
ǧ definitely the place to be. ĆĞnj ĎĒĊ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ ͕͖ ēĔĔē
Dingle Whiskey Bar
The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn O’Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ– –ƒŽ„‘– •–”‡‡–ǥ †—„Ž‹Â? …‹–› …‡Â?–”‡ the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜ Tickets available at the bar for â‚Ź18.
the celt
Grogan’s
44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320
The Confession Box JT Pim’s
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The Celt
Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local beers such as 5 Lamps and craft beers such as Sierra Nevada, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Whiskey Sour, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.
Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.
4 South Great George's Street, Dublin 2, D02 NR59 Phone: (01) 672 4645
81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - AUGUST 2019
One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028
Persian Cuisine
44/45 Lr. Camden St., Dublin 2 Delivery Number 01 4005700
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Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Cork at night
Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower
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you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and
there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
Explore Munster
The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Bunratty Castle
Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Titanic Experience Cobh
The Burren
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.
Blarney Castle
The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 26
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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.
www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie
Tel: 021 438 5252
Iconic
Cliffs oftower Moher reopens O
reopening of the iconic tower. In a statement, he said: “The completion of these restoration works ensures safe and secure access for the public to this strategic viewing location while at the same time preserving one of the most historic and well-known buildings in Clare.” Geraldine Enright, Director of the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience, added: “O’Brien’s Tower is a vital part of our local heritage and this restoration work ensures the conservation of this protected structure which forms part of the draw for visitors from all over the world to the Cliffs of Moher.” Commenting on the requirement to undertake restoration works on the tower, Ms. Enright explained: “The tower was suffering from water ingress as a consequence of its very exposed location. Due to concern for the long-term damage and also visitor safety, the Cliffs of Moher
Visitor Experience carried out repairs and interventions. We applied a lime render to the exterior in an effort to stop water penetrating through the wall. The tower was most likely rendered when it was built almost two centuries ago.” O’Brien’s Tower is to become an experiential feature of a visit to the Cliffs of Moher. It allows visitors to step back in time to 1835 where guides bring to life the local history and story of Cornelius O’Brien. The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience is one of three “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way, the others being the Bridges of Ross and Loop Head Lighthouse. The Cliffs are also a key component of the Burren & Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark. For more visit www.cliffsofmoher.ie.
Photo © Eamon Ward
ne of County Clare’s earliest known purposebuilt tourist facilities has been fully restored and reopened to the public at the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience. Located on a headland overlooking the world-famous cliffs, O’Brien’s Tower was built by local landowner and Member of Parliament Cornelius O’Brien in 1835. He believed that the development of tourism would benefit the local economy and bring people out of poverty. Clare County Council, which owns the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience, contracted Mid West Lime Ltd. to carry out renovation works on the landmark. This included the removal and replacement of existing stair enclosure, staircases and windows, as well as the repair of the internal face of the stone fabric of the tower. The Mayor of Clare, Councillor Cathal Crowe, has welcomed the
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Cobh Heritage Centre
The Queenstown Story
Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.
T
he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and
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1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.
Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.
An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1
Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08
Get Ready to Rock at
Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival The picturesque Co Waterford fishing village of Dunmore is set to play host to the 25th Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival, returning to its shores from Thursday, August 22 to Sunday, August 25.
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F
ans of bluegrass, honky-tonk, blues, country, Americana and rhythm ‘n’ roots are in for a real musical treat. The festival will feature a whole host of artists playing almost forty free gigs throughout the village. Making their Dunmore East debut is The 19th Street Band. Hailing originally from Holywood, Northern Ireland, Caolaidhe Davis moved to the US in 2005 to pursue a career in music. While establishing an earlier group, he found himself in need of a fiddle player. This led him to meet Meghan, who auditioned for his band. What Caolaidhe didn’t know was that he was also auditioning his future wife. Fast forward a few months and the pair found themselves living on ‘19th Street’ in Arlington, Virginia. There, they wrote songs and created the sound that would become the backbone of The 19th Street Band - a fusion of Americana, country and rock. Another new act to appear at this
year’s festival is Missourian Liz Moriondo. Embarking on her first ever Irish tour, she is a talented singer-songwriter who is well known for her dynamic voice. There’s also Raglan Rodeo, a Dublin band renowned for their blend of originals and covers. Raglan Rodeo draws upon a wide range of influences, including Hank Williams and Carter family classics to Bob Dylan, Neil Young and other Americana artists. On top of all this is Alfi, a new Dublin trio combining Appalachian old-time music and Irish trad sounds to produce their own unique songs. Their tracks feature an unusual blend of harp, five-string banjo, low whistle, uilleann pipes and vocals. Meanwhile, another notable fresh three-piece is acoustic harmony band The Blue Light Smugglers, comprising of Luke Coffey, Terence Cosgrave and Niall Hughes. Specialising in bluegrass, country and swing, the group can usually be found playing a residency at the Blue Light Pub, nestled at
the foothills of the Dublin Mountains. In terms of returning acts, there’s Pilgrim St – who made an electric Dunmore East debut in 2018. The seven-piece outfit bring a broad range of Americana, country, folk and bluegrass to their concerts. Those familiar with the group have come to expect a lively and energetic performance from Navan’s finest. There’s also Lands End, whose members hail from Cork, Galway, Dublin, Munich, Liverpool and Gloucestershire. Whilst their music is strongly embedded in the bluegrass tradition, each bandmate brings a distinctive sound of their own to the musical arrangements of the group. Another returning guest is Kiss My Grass. Hailing from Co. Wexford, the band is all set to bring an energetic and vibrant bluegrass and rockabilly sound to the festival. Meanwhile, Dublin outfit Whistle specialise in Americana-style folk, roots,
bluegrass, country and rock ’n’ roll. Together the six-piece deliver multi-part vocal harmonies, alongside guitar, banjo, violin, bass, harmonica, mandolin and accordion instruments. The Northern Irish based Mons Wheeler Big Band also make a welcome return to the festival. Their trademark big rockabilly sound is guaranteed to get the crowds on their feet. Another crowd-pleaser is Charlie Reader, often referred to as ‘The OneMan Band’. This is as the Liverpudlian singer-songwriter performs acoustic folk melodies and harmonies with the energy one would typically expect from a full group. The 25th Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival will kick off on Thursday, August 22 at the Strand Inn in Dunmore East. The event will herald the start of forty free gigs throughout the village taking place at
The Strand Inn, The Spinnaker Bar, Azzurro Restaurant, Power’s Bar and The Ocean Hotel. For more information about the Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival, visit the website www.discoverdunmore.com. You can also keep up to date with the event on the Discover Dunmore East Facebook page.
Ciaran Hinds image © Rory Lewis AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Bars in Munster
Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience
Dick Mack’s
Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net
The Roaring Donkey
Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739
The Friary
Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941
The Bierhaus
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant
Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)
The Original Durty Nelly’s
Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie
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Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant
The Lobster Bar and Restaurant
options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie
The Smuggler’s Inn The 2-AA Rosette Munster Room Restaurant is located on the idyllic private island of Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Resort. The Island is just minutes by car from Waterford city centre and accessible by complimentary Resort ferry. The Castle culinary team work passionately to create dishes with sublime flavour using high quality produce sourced from local suppliers, the kitchen’s vegetable patch and by foraging for what grows naturally on the 310-acre Island. The menu changes seasonally so guests can always savour the freshest ingredients. The Munster Room Restaurant’s oak-panelled walls, Waterford Crystal chandeliers and ornate ceilings match the luxurious surroundings of the 16th Century Castle hotel. Home to a fine Irish whiskey collection, an impressive wine cellar and signature cocktails, the elegant Fitzgerald Room bar is perfect for an aperitif or post-dinner drink. During the day, the Castle serves Afternoon Tea in the bright conservatory overlooking the lawns, with homemade pastries and desserts prepared by dedicated pastry chefs. The restaurant and hotel have made the lists for both McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Places to Stay 2019 and 101 Great Irish Restaurants 2019. They have also won Luxury Hotel of the Year 2019 and Munster Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2019. Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island, Ballinakill, Co Waterford X91 Y722 info@waterfordcastleresort.com 00353 (0)51 878 203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com
The Strand Inn
Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed. Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com
Out of the Blue
Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie
Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment. Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811
La Boheme
Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com
This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.
La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu
Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie
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S
Spike Island’s New Excellent Exhibitions
pike Island Cork has opened its newest addition, 'Independence', to the public, following a €100,000 investment. The new exhibition focuses on the 1400 prisoners and internees who were held on the island in 1921 during the Irish war of Independence. Many of the men incarcerated were simply lifted off the streets by British intelligence but they had an excellent and effective network of spies. “In the vast majority of cases, the British intelligence was correct. They had very good intelligence,” said Tom O’Neill, who conducted comprehensive research to uncover many interesting facts about those incarcerated on Spike Island and what happened to them. Michael Collins’ brother, Sean and the former Lord Mayor of Cork Terence MacSwiney’s brother were both interned on the island. In regards the latter, Sean MacSwiney was imprisoned there after his brother died following 74 days on hunger strike at Brixton Prison, London. Collins and MacSwiney escaped the island along with Con Twomey and Tom Malone in April 1921. An IRA unit based in Cobh was responsible for the jail break. The four men had been working on maintaining the island’s golf course and overpowered their guards, killing one of them. The IRA unit landed in a boat and took the four men to Ringaskiddy. “They were never recaptured,” Mr O’Neill said.
Dick Barrett, from Ahiohill, near Bandon, Co Cork, was also incarcerated on Spike Island. He was quartermaster for the IRA and had been involved in the famous Kilmurry ambush. “He escaped from Spike Island on November 21, 1921. He ended up being captured during the Civil War and was executed by the Free State Government on December 8, 1922,” Mr O’Neill said. Barrett was one of seven who also made a successful jailbreak from the island. They discovered an old boat that was unguarded and used some timber they’d found as makeshift oars to row their way to Cobh. “They couldn’t be re-arrested because the Truce came in,” Mr O’Neill said. Five of the six men captured alive following the IRA’s disastrous ambush on British forces at Clonmult, near Midleton, Co Cork, were also held there. Mr O’Neill, who has also written a book on that ambush, said it was the worst loss of life in a single engagement ever suffered by the IRA during the War of Independence. A total of 12 IRA men were killed and two later executed. Island manager John Crotty said the exhibition shines a light on a fascinating time in Irish history. "The Irish war of Independence was gruesome, fierce and unforgettable from an Irish perspective", said Mr Crotty. "For anyone involved in it this was a dangerous time to be alive". "We hope the exhibition shows just what it took not just for the fabled
men of 1916, but also the men who carried on the struggle and fought incredible odds to free the Irish nation". The island has extended its opening season from March to October to February to November for the first time this year. It will also have a seven-day-week opening from May to September. Mr Crotty said the island welcomed 2,500 visitors in its first ever February, despite some unpredictable weather, up 30 per cent on target. March figures were equally good. A second larger ferry of 126 capacity is now operating to the island and this will be complimented by an 80-seater ferry in June to August. Other new additions include the ‘Shivs and Shanks’ exhibition which was launched on March 12, showcasing improvised weapons confiscated by the Irish Prison Service. Mr Crotty said the ‘Ring of Spike’ walking trail is also now complete, with a new free map and download app given to visitors on arrival highlighting the trails. "We are adding something every year and with 104 acres of beautiful island and a 24-acre fortress with dozens of century old buildings, we will continue to develop the site and add new attractions for visitors to discover annually". For more information, visit Spike Island’s website at spikeislandcork.ie. AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Welcome to Connaught
Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty
The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city
Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all. AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Explore Connaught
Westport House
Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.
Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.
Mullaghmore
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www.WestportHouse.ie
Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.
Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.
Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.
Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.
Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.
Croagh Patrick
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.
Traverse the iconic Carlingford Lough on Carlingford Lough Ferry, Ireland’s newest must-do visitor experience, and revel at the outstandingly beautiful landscape that surrounds you. Sailing between Greencastle Co. Down and Greenore Co. Louth on the North East coast of Ireland, Carlingford Lough Ferry links the ancient and mythical Cooley Peninsula at the beginning of Ireland’s Ancient East and the majestic and stunning Kingdom of Mourne, the gateway to Northern Ireland. The ferry is a 44-car capacity vessel which holds up to 265 passengers and operates every day of the year except Christmas Day. Situated within 1 hour’s drive from Belfast, and 1 hour from Dublin, Carlingford Lough Ferry is your passage to discovery and adventure in the Carlingford Lough Area.
The Scenic Lough Foyle Ferry connects the Causeway Coastal Route at Magilligan Point in Northern Ireland to the Wild Atlantic Way at Greencastle in County Donegal. Sailing everyday in June, July and August. www.loughfoyleferry.com facebook: @scenicloughfoyleferry
FOR LIVE SAILING STATUS & TICKET OPTIONS VISIT WWW.CARLINGFORDFERRY.COM
Hook Lighthouse to Help ‘Save Our Seas’
Hook Lighthouse in Co Wexford – the oldest working lighthouse in the world – is to open this August a brand-new Eco Education Station under the theme ‘SOS - Save Our Seas’.
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The Eco Education Station will be located at the former plant on the lighthouse grounds. The exhibition will include a mixture of media elements, as well as hands-on activities for visitors. Both will illustrate the water cycle, along with the wider aspects of pollution, human interaction and individual responsibility. A particular focus is to be placed on global warming, with the Eco Education Station highlighting its effect on the water cycle, sea levels, tides, currents, wind, temperatures and the propagation of plastics in our oceans. Visitors will also be asked to ‘clean up their acts’ and take a pledge to help reduce sea pollution, clean our seas and coastlines and use less and waste less.
Commenting on the planned opening and the new ‘Save Our Seas’ message, Ann Waters, Manager at Hook Lighthouse, says in a statement: “It is time for critical action around climate change. There is small movement and certainly more awareness around ecological living but more than radical change is needed.” “Of the 9.1 billion tons of plastic produced since 1950, close to 7 billion tons are no longer in use. It is estimated that 9 per cent was recycled, 12 per cent was incinerated, and the remaining 5.5 billion tons remain in the oceans and land. With this in mind, knowing that even biodegradable plastic doesn’t necessarily decompose the way it should depending on where it ends up, there really is only one solution – use zero to as little
plastic as you possibly can.” Hook Lighthouse has had an environmental strategy in place since 2012. This strategy focuses on waste and energy reduction. The lighthouse recycles all paper, cardboard, tin cans, aluminium cans, plastic, glass, electrical waste and clothes. Where possible only local suppliers are used at the on-site cafe and the site also has a zeroplastic policy in place. The Eco Education Station will be officially opened on Saturday, August 10 to coincide with World Lighthouse Day on August 7. The day commemorates the signing of the Act for the Establishment and support of Lighthouse, Beacons, Buoys, and
Public Piers by the U.S. Congress in 1789. The official opening of the Eco Education Station takes place at 5pm on August 10 and the World Lighthouse Celebration on-site sees a variety of events on offer for all of the family at Hook. This includes sea shanties and pirate games for kids from 5pm to 7pm. The new Eco Education Station will be open and freely accessible to all visitors. Later in the evening at 7.30pm, a ticketed traditional fish and chip supper and drinks reception will take place at the lighthouse conservatory overlooking the rolling seas. The existing Hook Lighthouse dates back as far as the 12th century, though tradition states that Dubhán, a missionary
to the Wexford area, established a form of beacon as early as the 5th century. The headland is known in Irish as Rinn Dubháin, St. Dubhán’s Head. However, the similarsounding Irish word ‘duán’ means a fishhook, hence the English name ‘Hook Lighthouse’. A grant from the Fisheries Local Area Group Development Scheme (FLAG) has enabled the addition of the new Eco Education Station, a new pirate ship and a weather Station at Hook Lighthouse this year. For further details, visit Hook Lighthouse’s website at www.hookheritage.ie.
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Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)
Monroe's
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.
This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.
17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820
The Front Door
Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie
Bosh Bar and Restaurant
Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534
Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655
The Quays Bar Galway
Roísín Dubh
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540 42
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Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347
Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant
This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes. 11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie
Eala Bhán
Péarla na Mara
Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie
Brasserie on the Corner
Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823
Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!
The Yew Tree Restaurant
Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333
If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.
Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255
An Port Mór Restaurant
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730
Ashford Castle
Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003
Upstairs @ West Restaurant
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Welcome to Ulster
The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the
‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.
new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Mount Errigal
Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44
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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the
Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal
Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon
Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768
White’s Tavern
Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080
Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187
This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058
The Duke Of York
The John Hewitt
One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062
Peadar O’Donnell’s
There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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The Miami Showband Story A New Musical About the Iconic Irish Group The Miami Showband Story, a new stage musical about the iconic act once hailed as ‘the Irish Beatles’, is to hit theatres across Ireland this August and September.
Photos © Leon Farrell/Photocall Ireland
The group’s hay day was in the 60’s and 70’s where they entertained both Catholics and Protestants throughout all of Ireland. However, in 1975 tragedy befell the band as they were attacked by loyalist paramilitaries travelling home from a concert. Three members of the group – Fran O’Toole, Brian McCoy and Tony Geraghty - were murdered. Written by Marie Jones (Stones in His Pockets) and Martin Lynch (Dancing Shoes – The George Best Story), the musical will deal with the killings of 1975. However, surviving band mate and sax player Des Lee tells Travel Ireland Magazine that the show will put a greater emphasis on the joy the Miami Showband brought to audiences of the time. “We didn’t want the play to be leaning heavily on the massacre,” says Lee. “Instead, we wanted it to explore what the Miami Showband was all about – how successful they were and what they meant to their fans. They were heroes of the time. This is a show that will bring smiles, laughter, tears and joy. It’s got everything. I can envisage people hearing ‘Clap Your Hands and Stomp Your Feet’ and dancing in the isles.” “We all know the story. It’s one of the biggest of the Troubles,” says playwright Lynch, also speaking to Travel Ireland. “At first, I was apprehensive about tackling it but I got excited for two reasons. Firstly, I didn’t know Miami Showband member Ray Millar was from
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Belfast. I had danced to them when was I was 17 or 18 and hadn’t known that. But that’s the way these guys were. It was music, music, music. They didn’t care who was what.” “The other reason was that I had danced to the group in the 60’s and had loved all their music. So, I gave Marie Jones a call and we chatted about it. I discovered she went to the same dance halls in Belfast, even though she’s from a Protestant background and I’m from a Catholic background. We agreed the musical was far too good an opportunity to miss. If we could capture that and put it on the stage, it would be fantastic.” Lee says he and other living members of the Miami were involved in the musical, speaking to Jones and Lynch about their perspective on events. When asked why he wanted a musical about the Miami, the sax player replied: “Because of what happened to Fran, Brian and Tony and how I feel about that, I want to make sure that their names live on in history forever.” The full list of dates for The Miami Showband Story are below. Ticket prices vary depending on venue. • 8 – 17 August – Grand Opera House, Belfast • 20 August – Market Place Theatre, Armagh • 22 – 24 August – Millennium Forum, Derry • 28 August – INEC, Killarney • 30 August – Royal Theatre, Castlebar • 2 September – Town Hall Theatre, Galway • 4 September – The TLT Theatre, Drogheda • 7 September – UCH, Limerick • 10 – 11 September – Theatre Royal, Waterford • 13 September – Solstice Arts Centre, Meath • 16 – 21 September – The Gaiety Theatre, Dublin
Explore Ulster
Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.
The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.
Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.
The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.
Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.
Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.
Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.
Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.
Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours. AUGUST 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox
Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
The Ginger Bistro
Coco
1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121
55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421
Deane’s Restaurant
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150
Shu
They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655
Vanilla Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
Telfords Restaurant
Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268
Lough Erne Resort
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000
Sun Kee Restaurant
One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134
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Sakura
In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590
Speranza Restaurant
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
Lusty Beg
This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300
16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - AUGUST 2019
Great Irish Writers SEAMUS HEANEY
W
hen Seamus Heaney died six years ago, he left behind a legacy as not just a great Irish writer, but probably one of the most well-known poets of modern times. His influence has been felt all over the world, with people such as former US President Bill Clinton and former US Vice President Joe Biden professing to be fans of his work. Heaney has also influenced a wide range of writers, such as Natasha Trethewey, Kevin Young and Colm Tóibín. Heaney was born into a farming family in Derry in April 1939 and was raised in the village of Bellaghy. The eldest of nine children, he attended Anahorish Primary School before attending secondary school at St Columb’s College, going on to gain a first class honours in English Language and Literature from Queen’s University in Belfast in 1961. He then took up a position as a teacher in St Thomas’ Secondary School in the city. It was around this time that Heaney’s first poems were published in student magazines, leading to the publication of his first book, Eleven Poems, in 1965. But it was the release of his second collection, Death of a Naturalist, the following year that brought Heaney to wider acclaim. The book contained some of his best known and well-loved poems, including “Digging” and “Mid-Term Break” and was praised for its skillful use of metaphor and language,
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attention to detail and rural imagery. By then Heaney had become a lecturer, initially at St Joseph’s College of Education before returning to Queen’s University, followed by a spell as a guest lecturer at the University of California, Berkeley. In 1972 he moved to Wicklow and began to write full time, producing many more volumes of poetry and prose. He would return to lecturing at Carysfort College in Dublin and would divide his time for the rest of his life between Sandymount in Dublin and the US, where he became a visiting professor at Harvard University. He continued to give readings all over the world and produce critically acclaimed volumes of poetry and in 1995 he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature - adding his name to the list of previous Irish winners which includes WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett. He continued to produce work
prolifically for the rest of his life, with his 2010 collection Human Chain being nominated for the TS Eliot Prize. Heaney died in August 2013 at the age of 74 following a short illness. Such is the affection that the nation holds for him that his funeral was broadcast live by the national broadcaster, RTE, and was streamed all over the world. Despite living in Dublin for much of the latter part of his life, Heaney was buried in his home village of Bellaghy. In 2016 the Seamus Heaney HomePlace opened in the village. The HomePlace houses an interactive exhibition, arranged over two floors and filled with personal stories and artefacts, dozens of family photographs, as well as video recordings from friends, neighbours, world leaders, cultural figures, and the voice of the great man himself. the greatest writers the world has ever known.
BLARNEY CASTLE
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GARDENS
Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world. As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland. There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore. Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.
Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!
August 9am – 7pm (last admission 6pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)