Travel Ireland Volume 5 Issue50 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland Volume 5 Issue 50 June 2018

Gigs Galore This Summer! Kicking off with

Taylor Swift

magazine Blarney Castle one Kiss is all it takes

Gay Pride Festival adding colour to Dublin

Bloomsday Festival Russborough House

Immrama Festival Of Travel Writing

Westport Blues Festival

In the spirit of Joyce Pat Liddy writes about Sweny’s Chemist

CONTENTS

4 Welcome To Leinster 6 Summer Concerts 8 Bloomsday Festival 10 Theatre 12 Sweny’s Pharmacy & James Joyce 14 Russborough House & Parklands 16 Shopping 18 Explore Leinster 19 Leinster Bars 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 The City’s Doorstep 25 Gay Pride Festival 26 Welcome to Munster 28 Shandon Street Festival 30 Munster Bars 31 Munster Restaurants 32 Dingle Crystal 34 Blarney Castle 36 Explore Munster 38 Cobh Heritage Centre 40 Welcome to Connaught 41 Connaught Bars 42 Connaught Restaurants 43 Westport Folk and Bluegrass Festival 44 Explore Connaught 45 Welcome to Ulster 46 Ulster Bars 48 Explore Ulster 49 Ulster Restaurants 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our June issue Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. This month we’re looking forward to all the great concerts happening this summer, especially Taylor Swift in Croke Park, Dublin is gearing up for the annual Bloomsday Festival, in the west the Westport Folk & Bluegrass Festival is taking place while Shandon Street Festival will be delighting punters in Cork and Immrama Festival of Travel Writing will be giving us all itchy feet in Waterford. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt Céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels)

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Jade Cox (jade@travelirelandmagazine.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Summer Concerts Taylor Swift with special guests Camila Cabello & Charlie XCX

Taylor Swift will play two huge gigs in Dublin's iconic Croke Park on Friday 15th and Saturday 16th June. Support acts Charli XCX & Camila Cabello have just been announced for the upcoming Reputation stadium world tour which rolls into Dublin this Summer. Taylor is a ten-time GRAMMY winner, a singer, songwriter, musician and producer. She is the youngest person in history to win the music industry's highest honour, The GRAMMY Award for Album of the Year and she is the first female solo artist to win this prestigious award twice. Tickets from €74.50 including booking fee.

Queen + Adam Lambert with special guests The Boomtown Rats and Darkness

Queen + Adam Lambert return to Dublin this summer following unprecedented demand from Irish fans left unable to attend their incredible sold-out 3Arena show last November. The summer concert will showcase Queen + Adam Lambert’s spectacular new stage production. Tickets from €79.50 including booking fee.

Bruno Mars with special guests Sister Sledge, DNCE & DJ Rashida

Multiple GRAMMY Award winner and multi-platinum selling artist Bruno Mars brings his 24K Magic World Tour to Marlay Park on 12 July. The 24K Magic World Tour marks Mars’ first full-length outing since 2013’s hugely successful Moonshine Jungle World Tour, an international blockbuster that sold 2 million tickets worldwide across 155 sold-out dates. Bruno Mars plays Marlay Park on July 12th. Tickets from €79.50 including booking fee.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Michael Bublé with special guest Emile Sandé

With three Number 1 albums and a classic Christmas album to his name, Michael Bublé is an artist welcomed in every Irish household. He has toured the globe 5 times. Michael Bublé’s classic voice, endearing charm and sheer panache have established him as one of the great singers and entertainers. He has carved a unique place in the hearts of fans around the world. Michael Bublé plays Croke Park on Saturday July 7th. Tickets from €89.50 including booking fee.

The Chainsmokers with special guests Rita Ora, John Gibbons, Matoma, Chasing Abbey and Alex + Echos

To date, The Chainsmokers have totalled 20 billion in cumulative radio audience, 10 billion global streams, 6 billion video views and 2 million tickets sold. They play the RDS on June 24th. Tickets from €49.90 including booking fee.

The Killers with special guest Franz Ferdinand

The Killers have announced an open-air concert at RDS Arena on 26 June, special guests are Franz Ferdinand. The Killers sold out their 3Arena concert last November in a matter of minutes. The band has received countless accolades for their artistic achievement, including multiple Brit Awards, Grammy nominations, American Music Award nominations, MTV Video Music Awards, NME Awards and more. Tickets from €69.50 including booking fee.

LCD Soundsystem with special guests Lykke Li & Sh*t Robot LCD Soundsystem from New York formed in 2005, gaining immediate attention and critical acclaim for their self-titled Grammy-nominated debut album. They play Malahide Castle on June 5th. Tickets from €69.50 including booking fee.

Nile Rodgers + Chic with special guests Soul II Soul and C raig David Nile Rodgers will bring his leg

endary band CHIC to Dublin for an open-air sum mer par ty at Malahide Ca stle on Saturday 16 June. The iconic funk band will be join ed by special guest Craig Da vid and Soul II Soul. Ticket s from €49.90 including boo king fee.

s Flight of the Conchord their rescheduled Flight of the Conchords will play and 16th. shows at Dublin's 3Arena on June 15th fee. Tickets from €70.50 including booking

Gorillaz with special guests De La Soul, Little Simz and Hypnotic Brass Ensemble

Gorillaz play an open-air concert at Malahide Castle on 9th June. The Humanz Tour hits Dublin this summer and will see Murdoc Niccals (bass), Noodle (guitar), Russel Hobbs (drums) and 2D (vocals) joined on stage by the Gorillaz live band – Damon Albarn, Gabriel Wallace, Mike Smith, Jesse Hackett, Jeff Wootton, Karl Vanden Bossche and Seye Adelekan – as well as selected performers from the stellar roll-call of Gorillaz’ family of featured artists. Tickets from €69.50 including booking fee.

Madness

Madness will play 3Arena, Dublin on Saturday 28th July with very special guests The Lightning Seeds. Madness is a band that retains a strong sense of who it is and many of the same influences are still present in their sound – ska, reggae, Motown, rock’n’roll, rockabilly, classic pop, and the pin-sharp vernacular of their beloved London streets. Tickets from €48.90 including booking fee.

The Summer Series at Trinity College Dublin The series opens on July 23rd with singer, songwriter, supermodel, producer, actress and icon Grace Jones. Joining Grace Jones are three-piece pop sirens Wyvern Lingo. Tickets from €60.45 including booking fee.

Friday July 27th see one of the most iconic and innovative singers of his era, Bryan Ferry, perform at The Summer Series. This will be an unmissable night of Bryan Ferry’s greatest hits from his massive back catalogue. Tickets from €60.45 including booking fee.

On July 24th, classical crossover stars Il Divo take to the stage. The Trinity Orchestra are special guests. There will be standing and seated tickets available for this performance. Tickets from €54.65 including booking fee.

Saturday July 28th Gavin James will headline The Summer Series. Gavin has had a whirlwind two years which saw him sell over 2 million singles worldwide, perform to over 3 million people and hit No.1 with his breakout single ‘Nervous’. Little Hours open the show. Tickets from €49.90 including booking fee.

Breakout star Rag’n’Bone Man performs on July 25th. His debut album has been a huge hit worldwide and contains the global smash ‘Human’ selling nearly 4 million copies. Grace Carter will support. Tickets from €44.90 including booking fee.

Closing the series on Sunday July 29th is one of Ireland’s most celebrated female artists, Imelda May. Her most recent album ‘Tribal’ debuted at #1 in Ireland and #3 in the UK. Joining Imelda May are Keywest and rising stars Paradisia. Tickets from €49.90 including booking fee.

JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

y a d s m o o l B l a v i t s e F The James Joyce centre are yet again presenting an action-packed schedule of food events, walks, talks, music and more for this year’s Bloomsday Festival. The festival takes place from the 11th – 16th June.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

In the final chapter of Ulysses, Molly Bloom reflects “I wouldn’t give a snap of my two fingers for all their learning why don’t they go and create something”. This year the festival is marking the 100th anniversary of the serialisation of Ulysses in The Little Review by toasting that spirit of creativity. If you fancy a night at the theatre, then look no further than the return of the Abbey Theatre’s production of Ulysses. Or why not jump into bed with Molly at Bewley’s Café Theatre? In Ulysses “there’s music everywhere”, so the festival will feature Ulysses Extended: A Musical Score by celebrated composer Stephen Gardner on June 13th. Musician Séan MacErlaine joins dancer Áine Stapleton and illustrator Sarah Bowie to discuss Joyce, Art and Inspiration on a creative panel on June 11th. Visually, there’s an exhibition of new prints by Frank Kiely inspired by Joyce’s Dubliners. Artists from different disciplines have been on the streets of Dublin since February seeking traces of Joyce’s multi-layered novel. See what they’ve created at the Drawing on Joyce exhibition. You have the opportunity to enjoy a traditional Bloomsday Breakfast with optional grisly bits in a host of iconic locations across the city. Earlier in the week, why not join in a Joycean Food

Trail for a contemporary twist on the food of Ulysses or, on the big day itself, partake of Afternoon Tea at the James Joyce Centre, serenaded by Joycean sirens Sinead Murphy and Darina Gallagher. The signature Bloomsday Readings event takes place in Wolfe Tone Square, hosted by novelist Peter Murphy. If you’re looking for a Bloomsday pilgrimage, you can choose between bespoke bus tours and diverting walking tours. If you don’t want to cross Dublin without passing a pub, then check out the Joyce of Whiskey tour or our Joycean Pub Crawl. Is Bloomsday all about dressing the character? Find out why and how at our Fashion Workshop on June 12th or create a character from Ulysses at the Dublin Body Painting Jam on June 16th. You might glimpse them as their wandering parade passes through the city. You can also get into the ‘midsummer madness’ atmosphere with the Poetry Brothel, this year themed as a bawdy Bloomsday eve midnight mass on June 15th. This year also sees the introduction of Bella Cohen’s Bloomsday Blowout on June 16th, a literary salon with extra O! The packed Bloomsday Fringe programme this year also promises “real Irish fun without vulgarity.”

Theatre

Mermaid Arts Centre The Successful TD

After a sell-out performance in 2017, The Successful TD is back at Mermaid Arts Centre. Follow the trials, tribulations, misadventures and hilarious antics of Tull McAdoo as he seeks re-election to the Dail in the "October Elections”. Date 23 June Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

The Gate Theatre

The Olympia Theatre

The Snapper

A Day In May

The Snapper offers a wickedly funny account of the ups and downs of family life and pregnancy in Northside Dublin of the late 1980s. It is salty and sweet and the Gate Theatre sits right next door to the Rotunda Hospital where Sharon’s baby ‘the snapper’ is born. Dates 14 June – 15 September Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Flashdance The Musical

Flashdance - The Musical tells the inspiring and unforgettable story of 18 year old Alex, a welder by day and flashdancer by night, who dreams of going to the prestigious Shipley Dance Academy and becoming a professional dancer. When a romance complicates her ambitions, she harnesses it to drive her dream. Dates 11 – 16 June Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

The Gaiety Theatre The Kite Runner Based on Khaled Hosseini’s international best-selling novel, this powerful story has been adapted into a stunning new stage production. A haunting tale of friendship which spans cultures and continents, it follows one man’s journey to confront his past and find redemption.

A Drama Documentary written by Colin Murphy, based on the book of the same name by Charlie Bird and directed by Gerard Stembridge. With all profits from the show going to Pieta House. Dates 24 – 25 June Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

Dates 4 – 9 June

Theatre Royal, Waterford

Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie

Blackbird

The Abbey Theatre Ulysses

Smock Alley Theatre Love A La Mode

Bloom’s odyssey is a pandemonium of live music, puppets, dancing, clowning, bowler hats and kazoos. It’s Ulysses as you’ve never imagined it before, a superbly theatrical homage to Joyce’s chronicle of Dublin life and the greatest novel of all time. Created by Abbey Theatre Director Graham McLaren, this production is absurd, brilliant and oodles of fun.

In this comedy of manners, double-entendres and double-crossings, an Englishman, an Irishman, a Scotsman and a dandy, compete for the hand of a rich bachelorette. Love à la Mode is a farce in two acts: there will be some lies, sword-fights, slapstick and assorted song-anddance routines

Fifteen years ago, Una and Ray’s illicit relationship had a profound and devastating effect on both their lives. They haven't set eyes on each other since. Now in a tense confrontation the past returns to torment them as they unravel their deeply conflicted feelings for each other. Revelations and recriminations fly in this lacerating and controversial story of betrayal, abandonment and lust. Winner of the Olivier Award for Best Play, Blackbird is a complex portrayal of two people whose ruined lives are inextricably intertwined.

Dates 11 June – 21 July

Dates 4 – 16 June

Dates 28 – 30 June

Tel: 01 8872200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie

Tel: 01 6770014 or visit www.smockalley.com

Tel: 051 874 402 or visit www.theatreroyal.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Newly refurbished Peploe’s New York style meets Parisienne charm on Dublin’s St Stephens Green

Pre Theatre Menu 12.30 – 6.15pm

16 St. Stephen’s Green

peploes.com

353 1 676 3144

Sweny’s Pharmacy & James Joyce by Pat Liddy

uthor James Joyce, his major work Ulysses and Dublin are inextricably intertwined. You can’t really have one without the other. Published in 1922, this seminal mammoth of fiction depicts a day in the life of the city on the 16th June 1904 (now celebrated annually as Bloomsday). The characters weaving their way through the pages are often based on real-life people that Joyce knew in Dublin or met as he moved around his adopted homes in Trieste, Zurich and Paris (for more information on James Joyce see the June 2017 issue: travelirelandmagazine.com/wp-content/ uploads/2017/07/Travel_Ireland_38_ FINA22.pdf). Joyce’s main hero in Ulysses is Leopold Bloom and the book is mainly concerned with his wanderings around the city and the people he meets in real terms or in his head. In Episode Five, Lotus Eaters, Bloom travels up Westland Row to call into Sweny’s, his regular pharmacy at number 1, Lincoln Place. He is on a mission on behalf of his wife, Molly, but he has forgotten to bring the prescription for her face cream. It was the custom then to compound most cosmetic and medicinal preparations on the spot. This was the era before the marketing of the big brand names we are so familiar with today. 12

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

“When was it I got it made up last? Wait. I changed a sovereign I remember. First of the month it must have been or the second. O he can look it up in the prescriptions book. The chemist turned back page after page. Sandy shrivelled smell he seems to have. Shrunken skull. And old. Quest for the philosopher's stone. The alchemists. Drugs age you after mental excitement. Lethargy then. Why? Reaction. A lifetime in a night. Gradually changes your character. Living all the day among herbs, ointments, disinfectants. All his alabaster lilypots. Mortar and pestle…………………………... -- About a fortnight ago, sir? -- Yes, Mr Bloom said. He waited by the counter, inhaling the keen reek of drugs, the dusty dry smell of sponges and loofahs. Lot of time taken up telling your aches and pains……………………………. -- Yes, sir, the chemist said. That was two and nine. Have you brought a bottle? -- No, Mr Bloom said. Make it up, please. I'll call later in the day and I'll take one of those soaps. How much are they? -- Fourpence, sir. Mr Bloom raised a cake to his nostrils. Sweet lemony wax.” When in 2018 you walk into Sweny’s

it probably looks no different than it did to Bloom in 1904. The original furnishings are still in place and the drawers are still full of uncollected prescriptions and photographs wrapped in brown paper. It also looked the same to Oscar Wilde, who lived just around the corner, when he called around in the 1860s to collect medicines for his doctor father. In fact, it probably looked very much the same when it first opened for business in 1853. It traded in its steady, unfaltering, unchanging way up to 2009 when the then owners, the Quinn sisters, locked the pharmacy doors for the last time. The building was ripe for a good gutting and redevelopment as was so often the norm. Thankfully, within months, Brendan Kilty, a Joycean enthusiast, secured a lease on the shop to reopen it and turn it into a Joyce mini-museum and a place equally welcoming to the scholar and the beginner. The segway to an introduction or a deeper understanding of Joyce and his works are the regular readings that are held daily on the premises. P J Murphy and a team of other volunteers crew this ship as it almost literally transports the visitor to other times and literary experiences. P J, who has mastered 10 languages and can also greet visitors in many other tongues, proudly displays editions

of Ulysses and the other works of Joyce printed in many of the world’s languages. To fund the operation an eclectic variety of books are for sale but, more significantly, the shop still sells the very lemon-scented bars of soap that Bloom bought for his wash in the nearby Turkish baths (that building is now sadly demolished). If you can’t make Sweny’s on Bloomsday rest easy. Every day there is a little Bloomsday, and, in some ways, the almost frantic buzz of Bloomsday can be a slight distraction from walking in when it is a bit quieter and taking in the atmospheric ambience. P J and his amiable volunteers will entertain you with the stories of the pharmacy itself and its throughput of historic characters and will invite you to find out more about Joyce and the Dublin of his time. The readings are a most intimate way to soak in Joyce and even to learn more about his work in the shared vocalisation of his words. The hours of opening are like a Joyce novel; difficult to comprehend until you see the context. It opens every day at 11.00am except Sunday when it’s at 10.00am. Closing is dependent on the readings (see below). Monday at 5.00pm, Tue at 6.30pm, Wednesday at 5.00pm, Thursday at 9.00pm, Friday at 6.30pm, Saturday and Sunday at 7.30pm. Readings from the works of Joyce take place as follows (in English unless otherwise specified); Monday: Finnegan’s Wake at 1.00pm, Tuesday: Dubliners at 1.00pm and Dubliners in Spanish at 2.00pm. Wednesday: Portrait of the Artist at 1.00pm, Thursday: Dubliners at 1.00pm and Ulysses at 7.00pm, Friday: Dubliners at 1.00pm, Saturday: Ulysses at 11.00am, at 3.00pm in Portuguese and 6.30pm in French and, finally, Sunday:1.00pm Ulysses in German, 3.00pm in Italian and 6.00pm Finnegan’s Wake.

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Russborough House L

ocated less than an hour from Dublin in beautiful countryside near Blessington, County Wicklow, the historic house of Russborough is a must-see part of Ireland’s complex history. The Alfred Beit Foundation owns and operates Russborough House & Parklands, its mission is to promote education in the ﬁne arts in Ireland and to preserve and make accessible to the public the house, collections and demesne. Russborough is a Palladian mansion built from local granite 275 years ago which now has a protected view to preserve the vista that persuaded the First Earl of Milltown to build Russborough in its current location with its magniﬁcent unspoilt views of the Wicklow Mountains and Blessington Lakes. Russborough House and the Alfred Beit Foundation recently announce that after over 100 years some of the British and European Masters and furnishings have returned to Russborough. They may be viewed in the very rooms for which they were commissioned or purchased by the Earls of Milltown in the 18th & 19th centuries. Some of these works have not been seen by the public in many years. In 1902 Lady Geraldine Milltown donated them to the National Gallery of Ireland. Included are works by 17th and 18th century Italian, French, Irish and British artists including Claude-Joseph Vernet, Agostino Masucci, Marcantonio Bassetti, Anthony Lee and Joshua Reynolds. Since its construction in the 1740s Russborough has been owned by three families. From 1740 until 1931 the seven generations of the Earls of Milltown lived at Russborough. From 1931- 1952 Colonel & Maeb Daly and their two children called Russborough their home. From 1952 until 2005 Sir Alfred & Lady Beit lived here and now The Alfred Beit Foundation operates the

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

& Parklands

house and estate. Today, the Russborough ghost ‘lives on’ between Bedroom number 1 and Bedroom number 9!’ Lady's Island is a beautiful part of the estate surrounded by a moat and with a red Japanese bridge required to cross it. The tallest and rarest trees on the estate are planted here including douglas ﬁr, silver ﬁr, scots pine and it now also hosts the fairy trail for young children to explore. Wonderful trees abound at Russborough, Irish oaks were planted by each of the last two Presidents of Ireland, President Mary McAleese during her visit of 2011 and President Michael D. Higgins during his visit of 2015. An enormous amount of restoration was undertaken in the house this winter so now is the perfect time to visit this Palladian mansion. Russborough.ie

Immrama Festival of Travel Writing

n exploration of tales of travel will be told at the sixteenth annual Lismore Immrama Festival of Travel Writing this June 13th to 17th in county Waterford under the theme ‘A Celebration of Global Exploration’. Best-selling author Michael Smith, explorer and author Jacki Hill-Murphy, award-winning author Rosemary Mahoney and explorer and foreign correspondent Isambard Wilkinson are some of the world-renowned writers who are about to set their compass for Lismore this summer. Author John Devoy opens the festival talks with a free event on the evening of Wednesday, June 13th with an introduction from his book Quondam. Following this will be a screening of a documentary on the Irish aid effort in 1968 titled Biafra – Forgotten Mission. On Thursday June 14th author and journalist Isambard Wilkinson will discuss his book “Travels in a Dervish Cloak” based on his time spent working in Pakistan as a foreign correspondent during the war on terror. Seeking the land behind the headlines Bard sets out to discover the essence of a country convulsed by Islamist violence. Isambard is presently based in Hong Kong as a correspondent. On Friday evening author Rosemary Mahoney will discuss her travels down the Nile. She has been awarded numerous awards for her writing, including a 2011 Guggenheim Fellowship, a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts, a Whiting Writers Award, a nomination for

the National Book Critics’ Circle Award, a Transatlantic Review Award for Fiction and Harvard's Charles E. Horman Prize for writing. She is the author of Down the Nile; Alone in a Fisherman's Skiff, a New York Times Notable Book, A Likely Story: One Summer with Lillian Hellman, The Singular Pilgrim: Travels on Sacred Ground, Whoredom in Kimmage: The World of Irish Women, a National Book Critics Award Finalist and New York Times Notable Book, and The Early Arrival of Dreams; A Year in China, a New York Times Notable Book One of the keynote speakers, best-selling author Michael Smith will take to the stage in the heritage town of Lismore on Saturday June 16th. His talk will look at the history of Ireland’s Antarctic explorers as he will discuss his books on Tom Crean, Ernest Shackleton and other Irish explorers speaking about the highs and lows of uncovering the stories, challenging old myths, breaking new ground. Joining Michael as a keynote speaker on June 16th is explorer and author Jacki Hill-Murphy as she plans to discuss ‘Women adventuring off the beaten track’. Jacki has travelled to some of the most inhospitable places on earth to re-create the journeys of daring women adventurers. She has followed in the footsteps of Victorian explorers Isabella Bird who travelled by yak across the Digar-La in Ladakh, India; Mary Kingsley, who pioneered the route to the 13,255 foot summit of Mount Cameroon and Kate Marsden who trudged from Moscow to Siberia in search of a cure for leprosy. HillMurphy also braved piranha-infested waters

in a dugout canoe to replicate the 1769 expedition of Isabel Godin, the only survivor of a 42-person 4000-mile expedition along the Amazon River. Also taking place on Saturday, June 16th is a travel-writing workshop with Dr Robyn Rowland. Historian Donald Brady will host a talk on Sir Richard Musgrave of Tourin 17461818. Adventurer and mountaineer Michael Whelan will host a talk on his journey by bicycle from Islamabad to the world’s highest border crossing on the Karakoram Highway and onto Shipton’s Lost Arch in Western China. Bob Jackson will host the famous literary breakfast at Immrama at 8.30am on June 17th. He will discuss the story of the incredible life of Dr. Aidan MacCarthy, the only person to have survived the two events that mark the beginning and end of World War II; being evacuated from the beaches of Dunkirk after three days of relentless attacks in May 1940, and trembling in a makeshift bomb shelter in the centre of Nagasaki when the atomic bomb destroyed the city in August 1945. On the final day of the festival Family Fun Sunday will take place at the Millennium Park and the Lismore Farmers Market will be on the castle avenue. JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 16

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Cinders

Cinders is an Irish owned footwear store stocking a carefully collated collection of beautiful shoes, sandals and accessories from leading labels around the world. Brands include Rieker, Marco Tozzi, Tamaris, Steve Madden, Pitillos and their own trend collection. They are located at 22 Wicklow St, Dublin 2 and also have concessions in a number of Dunnes Stores: St. Stephen's Green, Henry St, Liffey Valley, Blanchardstown and Cornelscourt in Dublin, Bishopstown Court and Patrick's St in Cork, Headford Road in Galway and Monread Shopping Centre in Naas. 22 Wicklow St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6777 491 www.Cinders.ie

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Since 1805, family-owned Mitchell & Son have been providing Fine Wines & Spirits to the people of Ireland. Now in the hands of the 7th generation, they offer a high quality selection of New & Old World Wines, Champagne, & fortified wines. Home to the Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskeys, they also have a wide selection of Irish, Scotch, & Japanese whiskies, and other fine spirits. With a superb selection of Riedel Glassware and decanters, Coravin Wine System, and Le Creuset wine accessories, they are one of the most diverse independent wine merchants in Ireland. Mitchell & Son also offer Wine and Whiskey Appreciation courses that provide an understanding of the Irish market and a chance to explore your tastes. CHQ Building, IFSC, Dublin, D01 FC89 Tel: 01 612 5540 www.mitchellandson.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

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This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Leinster Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum EPIC is a state-of-the-art museum that tells the moving and unforgettable story of the 10 million people who left Ireland – and how they influenced and shaped the world. Experience this breathtaking story in the world’s only fully digital museum. This top-rated attraction houses the Irish Family History Centre, helping visitors uncover their Irish roots. Top 10 Things to Do in Dublin on TripAdvisor and shortlisted for European Museum of the Year 2018. Open daily 10am to 6:45pm (last entry 5pm). The CHQ Building, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1. epicchq.com +353 (0)1 906 0861

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions. Located 2.5km from Dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours. A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself. Awarded Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and listed at no. 2 on Tripadvisor, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours and re-enactments museum@glasnevintrust.ie

If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes. The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages. Three brand new tours are designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands, the New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the Historic Liberties.

The Chester Beatty Library The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 01 832 9406.

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History and the Decorative Arts and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions detailing all aspects of Irish life down through the ages. Don’t miss the fantastic new exhibition Shadow of Sodeisha; Japanese and Irish art in Clay, celebrating 60 years of Japanese/Irish relations which runs in the National Museum of History Decorative Arts until February 2018. Admission to the museum is free all year round. Tel 01 677 7444

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Dingle Whiskey Bar Sin Ă&#x2030;

Sin Ă&#x2030; on Ormond Quay is Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original late night alternative music venue. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for, Sin Ă&#x2030; caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin Ă&#x2030; is

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the celt

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Tickets available at the bar for â&#x201A;Ź18. 44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037

www.sin-e.ie

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The Hairy Lemon

The Hairy Lemon is based in the centre of Dublin and located in the Creative Quarter in Dublin 2. The interior is a little unconventional with years of memorabilia, a sitting room suspended in mid-air, high nellies, wellies and even Grannyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen serving traditional Irish food. Unknown to itself, the Hairy Lemon has become one of Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trendiest bars and hosts The Hairy Lemon Trad Sessions every Sunday from 7pm onwards.

Street 66

Street 66 is a new bar/venue, tucked away in the heart of trendy South Dublin on Parliament Street, just two minutes walk from Temple Bar and Dublin Castle. A great place for lovers of disco, funk and soul, and reggae with a wide selection of Gins, Irish Whiskeys, cocktails and craft beer. This dog friendly bar is designed for the global citizen who loves great drinks and great music. 33 - 34 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 01 6793369 www.street66.bar

41-42 Stephen Street Lower, Dublin 2. (01) 671 8949

The Celt The TapHouse

The mission at TapHouse Bar and Kitchen is to give the finest Irish and International flavour through craft beers, spirits, fine wines and tasting plates of exciting foods that complement and accompany their beers wines and spirits. The TapHouse also have their own beer philosophy and the TapHouse standard pour is in the Munique 400ml glass, to keep your beer cool, carbonated and fresh to the last drop. 60 Ranelagh, Dublin. Call (01) 491 3436 info@taphouse.ie

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

Groganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

This is the regular hang-out for Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts.

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com

La Ruelle Wine Bar Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals. 140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

Toscana ‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Multi award winning Toscana Restaurant specialises in authentic Italian cuisine with emphasis on fresh organic produce from their Wicklow Garden. They pride themselves on creating menus around locally sourced produce and stock an extensive selection of fine wines from Italy and from other choice regions around the world. Toscana Restaurant is located on beautiful Dún Laoghaire seafront where you can enjoy panoramic sea-views overlooking Dublin Bay and Dún Laoghaire harbour. Toscana Restaurant offers a relaxed dining experience with impeccable service and a relaxed atmosphere. A visit to Toscana is a must.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

5 Windsor Terrace Dún Laoghaire E dunlaoghaire@toscana.ie Tel No 01 2300890

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

THE CITY’S DOORSTEP personality makes it an Dublin’s culture, colourful history, and big eclectic Temple Bar, peppered endlessly interesting city to explore. From ic, to the historic architecture with street art and the sounds of live mus narrow streets, Dublin has of the city’s lush green Georgian squares and something for every visitor.

But as every traveller knows, there’s a time for enjoying the hustle and bustle of a city and a time for exploring its quieter parts, a moment for revelling in a city’s atmosphere and a moment for escaping the buzz of a capital city. Dublin’s charming coastal villages are within a stone’s throw of the city centre, just a short bus ride away. Within minutes of leaving the city, you can look across Dublin Bay from Sandymount Strand, or cross Clontarf ’s famous wooden bridge heading over to explore the unique UNESCO Bull Island. Wander around seaside towns, discover quiet beaches, or enjoy the rugged terrain of a cliff walk. Getting out to explore the city’s suburbs is made easy with Dublin’s vast transport network. The DoDublin Card is perfect for hopping around the city and getting out to explore what lies beyond Ireland’s capital. It’s a 72 hour pass – and can be used on the DoDublin Hop on hop off tour, Airlink Express, and the Dublin Bus network – meaning travel is made easy from the city to towns such as Portmarnock, Howth, Malahide, Dalkey and Dun Laoghaire. Here’s a quick travel guide to seeing the best of Dublin’s Doorstep:

East Pier, Dún Laoghaire Since opening in 1859, the pier has been a favourite for locals and visitors. With

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

views taking in the entire bay, it’s easy to understand the reasons so many enjoy this fabulous walk. Sample a traditional “99” ice-cream from Teddy’s – a Dún Laoghaire institution since 1950, or try the less than traditional Scrumdiddly’s, where you will find waffles, special hot chocolates and the famous Scrummy Tubs. With thousands of combinations, there’s something for everyone with a sweet tooth at Scrumdiddly’s. A stroll around the People’s Park is a must for visiting Dun Laoghaire. Getting there: Hop on the 46A bus with stops throughout the City Centre

Dollymount Strand Even getting to this glorious 5km stretch of sand is an adventure, where you will cross the famous Wooden Bridge that connects Clontarf with Bull Island. Dollymount Strand feels like a world away from the city and it’s easy to enjoy several hours here, especially if the kite-surfers are out in force. Bull Island is unique in that it is designated by UNESCO as a Biosphere – it has a wealth of habitats and biodiversity. Getting there: Hop on the 130 bus from Abbey Street in the City Centre National Botanic Gardens Within the Botanic Gardens in Glasnevin,

there’s a huge selection of exotic plants and flowers — and plenty of squirrels too – not to mention the stunning 19th century greenhouses, which constitute an attraction in their own right. It’s the perfect place for a picnic, but there’s also a café onsite. The Gardens are also right beside the famous Glasnevin Cemetery. It might seem strange that a cemetery is a Dublin tourist spot, but once you visit, you will soon realise why. Getting there: Hop on the 83 from the City Centre to Botanic Gardens. Hop on the 40 or 140 from the City Centre to Glasnevin Cemetery. Dublin Mountains There are endless places to picnic, walk and hike south of Dublin, few are better than the Dublin Mountains. Take to the hills and experience the famous Hell Fire Club and stunning views across the city and Dublin Bay. The Wicklow Way also begins in Rathfarnham – one of the world’s must-do hikes. Getting there: Hop on the 16 from the City Centre to Marlay Park. Explore the city you know, and the city you don’t with DoDublin’s 72 hour travel and sightseeing card, and get to see the all that Dublin has to offer through the eyes of a local. dodublin.ie/dodublincard

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Dublin’s Gay l a v i t s e F e d i Pr

n 1983 the first Dublin LGBT Pride Parade took place and has been going ever since, getting bigger every year. Dublin LGBTQ+ Parade is Ireland’s biggest LGBTQ+ people parade with up to 30,000 plus people marching in 2017. The parade is a celebration of the rich diversity of the LGBTQ community in Dublin, Ireland and the world, with an expanded arts, social and cultural content. Dublin Pride is the largest

such celebration in Ireland and has grown from a one-day event into a week-long festival. The Pride Parade is always a highlight of the annual Pride festival. It is an opportunity to march in solidarity and hear the power of the community’s voices combined. It is also a chance to celebrate. This year's Dublin Pride Parade will take place on Saturday June 30th. The parade will assemble at St. Stephen’s Green South and

speeches and entertainment will take place from the start point at 12 noon. The Pride Parade will embark on its route at 2pm sharp. From there it will head through Dublin and will finish at the brand new Pride Village location, Smithfield Square. Admission to the Pride Parade is free for individuals and community groups that support the ideals and principles of Pride.

JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. Reginald’s Tower

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. 26

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’

and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

t e e r t S n o d n Sha

l a v i Fest

he Shandon Street Festival Committee will welcome everyone to Shandon on Saturday 23rd June from 1pm – 6pm, to celebrate this great community and to take part in all the activities of the Shandon Street Festival. This is the 12th year of the festival, and each year it has gone from strength to strength. The Shandon Street Festival is an annual free family fun day which takes place on and around Church Street in the shadow of the Shandon Bells. This year the festival is packed with family friendly activities and events such as street entertainment, magic shows, cake decorating, balloon modellers, sand art workshop and not only is there a puppet show, but children can also take part in a drumming workshop. Wonderworld Productions will also provide family entertainment which will include Interactive Theatre and Cork Community Artlink Drama Group will perform Oscar Wilde's "The Star Child". Soccer mad under 10s are encouraged to take part in the 5-a-side soccer tournament which will take place in St. Anne’s Park along with a whole host of other activities like hula hoops and skipping ropes for all age groups. Those fond of music will be in their element with the sounds of the Butter Exchange Band, Muddy Lee and the Shandon Shawlies, as well as The Laughing Shamrocks. There will also be a selection of choirs who will perform in Shandon itself. You can dance along to the Ceili All Stars band starting at 3pm. Foodies can savour delicious treats and snacks at a wide range of food stalls with everything from dinky donuts, crepes, ice-cream to candy ﬂoss and cakes.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Amateur photographers are also asked to get involved by taking photographs and posting them to the Shandon Street Festival 2018 Facebook page, Twitter @shandonstfest #shandon and Instagram ‘shandonstreetfest’ Full details on the website www.shandonstreetfestival.com

are you

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OOTB

Out of the Blue

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Recommended Bars in Munster Jack Meades (under the bridge)

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day. Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day.

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Buckley’s Bar

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration. The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. Tel: 064 663 1037

Dick Mack’s

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JUNE 2018

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort provides an opportunity to taste the best of traditional and contemporary Irish cuisine. The awardwinning restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide and holder of two AA Rosette accredited. The Resort’s Head Chef Michael Thomas was awarded “Best Chef of Ireland 2017” by Yes Chef Ireland. Under his direction the award-winning culinary team uses only the finest local produce and creates a truly memorable fine dining experience. All this set aside the Munster Rooms warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled and ornate ceiling it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Waterford Castle offers an extensive wine cellar and cocktail hour in The Fitzgerald Bar with the winning mixologist Ilario is not to be missed. Start your magical evening with a short crossing over the King’s Channel by the Island Resort’s private car ferry, to the enchanted 310 acre Island Resort. Waterford Castle leave your worries at the shore… Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort |The Island |Waterford | Ireland Castle Tel: +353 (0)51 878 203 http://www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant

The Copper Hen

The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced. Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on. Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie

La Boheme

The Smuggler’s Inn

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

Momo

The Copper Room

The Copper Room boasts the best that Limerick has to offer when it comes to wine, cheese and port. The Copper Room has an amazing selection of local and international cheeses, pates and meats and these can be paired with complementary wines and ports for a mouth-watering culinary experience. They also have an extensive selection of beers for those that prefer the grain to the grape. Address 100 O’Connell St Limerick Tel 061 211000 info@thecopperroom.ie

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Dingle Crystal F

rom humble beginnings, Dingle Crystal have established themselves on the world stage thanks to their commitment to producing mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal. In an era when many other brands have gone down the wholesale route, this family-run company still proudly produce unique, hand crafted pieces that can be found in the collections of the President of Ireland and Bono to name but two. With every piece signed and dated, it’s not hard to see why Dingle Crystal’s work would be appealing to those visiting the country, looking for an exclusive souvenir of their trip to Ireland. They also cater to those living abroad, shipping worldwide. Their fantastic work in this field was recently recognised at the SME Awards 2016, where they won the award for Best Online Exporter. If you do visit Dingle then a trip to the new Dingle Crystal Factory & Visitor Centre is a must. While there you can take a tour of their workshop where you will find company founder Sean Daly hard at work. This is a wonderful opportunity to observe a master craftsman and see how Dingle Crystal’s incredible designs are created. There aren’t many craftsmen left making pieces the way Sean and his sons do and the tour is fascinating and informative. From bowls to glasses, candlesticks and vases, Dingle Crystal can create the perfect souvenir or gift that you won’t find anywhere else. They also offer beautiful whiskey glasses that have proved extremely popular all over the world. These glasses are the perfect match for Irish whiskey but make sure you get your order in early - these handmade glasses are in great

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demand. It’s not hard to see why as they really are astounding creations that would stand out in anyone’s collection. Visit their new Factory & Visitor Centre. They cater for groups of all sizes, with personal demonstrations with Master Craftsman Sean Daly and his sons. Please contact Adam on 0669151550 or email adam@dinglecrystal.ie to organise a tour. Dingle Crystal Unit 4 Ballinaboola Industrial Estate Dingle Co. Kerry 066 9151550 info@dinglecrystal.ie www.dinglecrystal.ie

Blarney Castle B

larney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland's greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors to Munster ever since. People come from all over the world to kiss the Blarney Stone, only to leave with miraculous powers of eloquence. The castle that you visit today is actually the third to have been built there on the site. The first building was erected in the tenth century and was made of wood. Then around 1210 A.D. this was replaced by a stone structure which had the entrance some twenty feet above the ground on the north face. This building was subsequently demolished, leaving only the foundations. But in 1446, the castle was rebuilt by Dermot McCarthy, King of Munster. And it is this, the third castle to be built here, that you can visit today. Over the next 600 hundred years all sorts of illustrious visitors made their way to the famous castle. In the late 16th century, Queen Elizabeth I of England sent the Earl of Leicester over to take possession of the castle. But whenever he tried to negotiate with the Munster King, McCarthy always suggested they discuss it over a sumptuous banquet. What was the Earl to do? It would have been rude not to.

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So that when the queen asked him for progress reports, he sent her a series of long missives in which he carefully avoiding answering the key question, and at the end of which, the castle remained in Irish hands. The queen became so irritated that eventually she remarked that the earl's reports were all 'Blarney'. So it is thanks to Elizabeth that Blarney became synonymous with eloquence, and that so many people ďŹ&#x201A;ock there today to kiss its stone. The English did eventually succeed in taking the castle, when Cromwell's General, Lord Broghill blasted his way through the tower walls. But when he got inside, everyone within had somehow disappeared, making their way through the three secret passageways hidden in the caves below the battlements, known as the Badgers Caves. One leads to Cork, one to the lake, and the third, according to legend, goes all the way to Kerry. At the beginning of the 18th century Sir James St. John Jefferyes built a Georgian gothic house up against the keep of the castle, which was then the

Blarney In Bloom

custom all over Ireland. At the same time the Jefferyes family laid out a landscape garden known as the Rock Close with a remarkable collection of massive boulders and rocks arranged around what seems to have been druid remains from prehistoric times. Certainly, many of the yew trees and evergreen oaks there are extremely ancient. In 1820 the house was accidentally destroyed by fire, and the wings that remained now form a picturesque adjunct to the keep. These were subsequently rearranged in the 1980s so as to give a better view of the castle’s keep. Blarney Castle is a must for any visitor to Munster. And as you are hanging upside down, kissing its famous stone, think of Elizabeth. Like so many English before and after, she intended taking something away, but ended up enriching the local

culture. Albeit unintentionally. Opening hours 9am-5.30pm/ Sundown, 9am-Sundown on Sundays. Admission €13, €5 for children.

Blarney in Bloom takes place on July 15th from 1pm to 5pm. This is a wonderful Family and Garden Show featuring farmers markets, arts and crafts, specialist speakers as well as a fantastic dog show. It is regarded as one of Munster’s most prestigious shows with garden plants on sale from all over Ireland. This is the place to go to get that extra special plant for your garden and there will be garden experts on hand to give you advice on where to plant and how to maintain your plants long into the future. In aid of Irish guide dogs you can also enjoy the beautiful gardens of Blarney Castle. Take an amble through the many stands with arts and crafts and get up close to the many dogs on show. At just €8 admission per adult and children go free this event is truly a family day out to suit everyone.

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 36

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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Cobh The Queenstown Story

Heritage Centre

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces

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fighting in America between 1775 and 1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration. Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

Upstairs at Wood & Bell

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes.

A new restaurant by the celebrated former Ireland rugby player Keith Wood is now open in the lakeside village of Killaloe, Co Clare. Led by executive chef Paddy Collins, Upstairs at Wood & Bell features a succinct and assured menu offering classic, French-influenced dishes. Many of the fruit, vegetables and herbs are grown in the restaurant’s own gardens which overlook Lough Derg and are managed by Keith’s wife, avid gardener Nicola Wood.

11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Main Street, Killaloe, Co Clare. Wednesday to Saturday, 5.30-9.45pm. Advance booking is advised. Tel: 061 517 480 Email info@woodandbell.com Facebook: / woodandbell

Eala Bhán

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie 42

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Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Brasserie on the Corner

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate! Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

Westport

Folk and Bluegrass Festival

rguably the best little festival in the West of Ireland, the Westport Folk and Bluegrass Festival, in association with Fáilte Ireland and Destination Westport, returns this month from June 8th – 10th. For over eleven years the festival has featured acts from America, the UK, continental Europe and of course Ireland – north and south. The festival is organised by a small voluntary committee of music lovers who take great care in bringing the finest musicians playing traditional and contemporary bluegrass, old time and various styles of folk music. The festival spans three days and will feature dozens of gigs, plenty of jam sessions, master-classes and workshops and a luthiers’ showcase, featuring local instrument makers showcasing their craft. There is also a programme of concerts and workshops specifically for kids. Festival goers can enjoy a variety of artists as they wander around the town, where most of the performances are free and in local pubs and restaurants. In addition, every day features an opportunity to attend a special concert event. On Friday night, the main gathering takes place at the Holy Trinity Church for an evening of artists who specialize in old time music, featuring string bands and combos playing old American tunes and songs as well as contemporary sounds based in that rich tradition. The trio of Ben Paley, Tab Hunter and Dan Edwards as well as a 6-piece band, The Buffalo Gals, headline this event. On Saturday night, the fabulous Westport Town Hall Theatre is the location for a grand concert of the finest traditional and contemporary bluegrass artists, featuring an all international bluegrass line-up of Hot

Rock Pilgrims (UK), The Gold Heart Sisters (USA) and G-runs n’ Roses (Czech Republic). As a farewell, Sunday evening will be spent at festival patron, Matt Molloy's famous yard bar where The Clew Bay Folk Club will host a special evening of folk music headlined by Irish folk singer, Daoiri Farrell, winner of 2 BBC Folk Radio Awards in 2017. Three of the highlights of previous years will also make a come-back: The Red Room Presents ‘The Mystery Gig’, three of the festival’s acts will take to the stage at Matt Molloy’s Yard Bar, but the crowd won’t know who they are until they show up!; Tim Rogers & Friends will return for an Old Time session - Tim Rogers is the only artist to play this festival every year since the ﬁrst one in 2007 and his session, where he invites different musicians to join him, is always a fantastic celebration of music; The Gospel Hour - for the last few years over 300 people have packed out the Holy Trinity Church in town for an hour of gospel music on Sunday morning. Following on the success of last year’s kids’ show, this year, the festival will host another family show, featuring Bernie Pháid from the cultural wellsprings of the West Kerry Gaeltacht and Galway native, Dave Clancy. There is also a new feature to the festival this year, on Sunday, June 10th, Westport Town Hall will open its doors for the festival’s ﬁrst Square Dance. This is a common feature in bluegrass festivals all over the world and all dance lovers will be welcomed to this great event. The festival atmosphere is warm and open, where everyone – all generations, cultures and walks of life, locals and visitors – feel included and, most importantly, have fun. The audience consists of everyone from seasoned folk and bluegrass ‘buffs’ to casual music fans, plus people just out for the craic.

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Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

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www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

the new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall,

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 46

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Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play. 48

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The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 JUNE 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Great Irish Writers

KEVIN BARRY

evin Barry is the author of the novels City of Bohane and Beatlebone and the short story collections Dark Lies The Island and There Are Little Kingdoms. He has won the IMPAC Dublin City Literary Award, the Goldsmiths Prize, the Sunday Times EFG Short Story, the European Union Prize for Literature among other awards. His stories have appeared in the New Yorker and Granta. His work has been translated into 16 languages. His radio plays and monologues

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have been broadcast on RTE and the BBC. Adaptations of his stories have been staged in Ireland and the US. He also writes screenplays and essays, and he is co-editor of the journal Winter Papers. His first feature film as screenwriter Dark Lies The Island is released later this year. His first play Autumn Royal was the winner of the BBC Northern Ireland Radio Drama Award at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Stewart Parker Trust Awards and is currently on tour around Ireland.