Travel Ireland Volume 3 Issue 22

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Travelireland Volume 3 Issue 22 February 2016

Pat Liddy

gives a history lesson on The GPO

Birr Castle The Gathering Trad Fest Killarney

magazine

Ortus

Chamber Music Festival Cork

100

years in the making

1916 Centenary Celebrations at The Ambassador theatre

Smock Allies Scene and Heard festival at Smock Alley Theatre



CONTENTS 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 24 26 28 30 31 32 34 36 38 39 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

Welcome To Leinster

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our February issue.

Wicklow’s Historic Gaol

Whether this is your first time visiting our shores, or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Theatre Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as Birr Castle you plan your stay here. There’s so much to do and see all year round GPO – Ireland’s Hall of Independence in Ireland, especially in the year that we mark the centenary of the Easter Rising and what better place to find out more about the Rising Smock Allies: Scene & Heard than Revolution 1916 at the Ambassador Theatre? The main centre Leinster Pubs of the Rising was the GPO and Pat Liddy writes for us in this issue Leinster Restaurants about the history of this iconic building. As always there are a host of Shopping other great festivals and events to enjoy this month, including Ortús Chamber Music Festival, The Gathering Traditional Festival and Smock Explore Leinster Allies: Scene & Heard. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland Welcome to Munster wish you a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte. Revolution 1916

Explore Munster

The Gathering Traditional Festival

Enjoy your stay.

Ortús Chamber Music Festival Cork City Munster Pubs Munster Restaurants Great Irish Writers Joe McGill – Artist Welcome to Connaught Explore Connaught The Michael Davitt Museum Connaught Restaurants

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Connaught Pubs Welcome To Ulster Explore Ulster Derry International Irish Music Festival Ulster Pubs Ulster Restaurants Down County Museum

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Mark O’Brien Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Aran Sheehan (aran@travelirelandmagazine.ie, 085 711 0826) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael Mc Laughlin, Patrick Donald Photography. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. And to Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making 4

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February 2016

Hill of Tara them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne

river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor

Kilkenny Castle

bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!


Dublin Airport Travel Services Airport Parking, Fast Track, Executive Lounges and more – save time and book all of your essential travel services in one easy step on dublinairport.com Dublin Airport offers all passengers unlimited free Wifi


Wicklow's

R

Historic Gaol

Refurbished and designed to engage the senses, Wicklow’s Historic Gaol offers visitors the chance to step back in time and take a journey through one of Ireland’s most historic - and most haunted - landmarks. Educational and fun, the interactive tours are great for the whole family and as it’s all indoors, you don’t have to worry about the weather. Holographic projections of cruel prison guards and the defiant cries of the 1798 rebels ring through the three prison floors, recreating 200 years of history as visitors explore the building. Down in the dungeon visitors can learn about the torture methods used long ago while you can also climb aboard the replica transportation ship for an agonizing journey to Van Diemens Land, which we now as Tasmania. Wandering through the cells, you can meet the notorious protagonists of the 1798 rebellion and experience the overcrowding of the famine era before ascending into the Irish War of Independence and Civil War when Wicklow Gaol finally closed its doors as a prison. Not all of the prisoners left though and visitors will learn why Wicklow Gaol is known as one of Ireland’s most haunted buildings, with audio headsets in four languages explaining the story. There are also interactive points for children in the Gaol and a genealogy centre for anyone interested in tracing ancestors who they think may have spent time in the Gaol. If you think you can handle the spooky goings on then maybe you’d be interested in one of the bespoke events that are on offer at the Gaol. These include evening ghost tours, overnight paranormal investigations and sleepovers in the cells, making Wicklow’s Historic Gaol not just a fascinating place to visit and learn more about Irish history but also the perfect place for a quirky birthday party, anniversary or special occasion with a difference. www.wicklowshistoricgaol.com

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February FEBRUARY 2016


GOURMET FRENCH CUISINE PRE-THEATRE & EARLY-BIRD DINING VEGETARIAN, COELIAC & GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS PRIVATE DINING ROOMS AVAILABLE

81 - 82 TALBOT STREET, DUBLIN 2 |TEL: 01 704 0126 |EMAIL: INFO@LEBONCRUBEEN.IE |WWW. LEBONCRUBEEN.IE

Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1


Revolution 1916 at the Ambassador Theatre

A

n exciting new exhibition comes to the Ambassador Theatre on 27 February - Revolution 1916. This original and authentic exhibition will give a fascinating insight into the 1916 Rising and coincides with the Centenary Celebrations that will be taking place all over the country with Dublin alone expecting over four million visitors this year. If you’re planning on visiting Ireland to find out more about this historic event, then Revolution 1916 should be marked as a ‘must visit’ on your itinerary. The exhibition will feature the largest private collection of 1916 artefacts, which have been kindly donated by the Irish Volunteers Commemorative Organisation. There will be over 500 items on display, including an original 1916 Proclamation, uniforms from the Irish Volunteers, Cumann na mBan and na Fianna, 1916 weapons

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February FEBRUARY 2016

including Howth Mausers, German Lugers, a Peter the Painter C96 machine pistol favoured by Patrick Pearse, French Bayonets and even the actual door handle of the G.P.O. from 1916. At midday, every day, a uniformed Patrick Pearse will read aloud the 1916 Proclamation outside the Ambassador and the Proclamation itself will be used as the overall theme, with the exhibition examining the “six times during the past three hundred years they have asserted it in arms”. Visitors can then also tour through a series of sets that will take them through the main locations of the Rising and make them feel as if they are right back in Dublin one hundred years ago. Locations will include the GPO, Moore Street and a recreating of the 1916 Kilmainham landing where the leaders of the Rising were held after they were captured.


For context of the events that led up to the Rising, the role of The Irish and Fenian Republican Brotherhood since its formation in 1858 to the establishment of Sovereignty 60 years later after the 1918 elections will be presented in the exhibition, as will the ratification of the 1916 Proclamation by the First Dáil Éireann on 21st January 1919 and the Declaration of Independence with its original sovereign seal. The Ambassador itself is a fitting venue for this exhibition. It was formerly the Rotunda Rink, which dates back to 1764, and it was there on 25 November 1913 that the Irish Volunteers held a mass meeting in which many volunteers who would later take part in the Rising signed up for the first time. It was also the backdrop for the famous image of British soldiers holding a captured Republican flag upside down and inside out and is

beside the building where the captured rebels from the GPO and Four Courts garrisons were held overnight. The organisers of the exhibition have put together a special school tour package, with student tickets costing just €8 and each tour booking will receive study notes on the Rising that have been compiled by James Connolly Heron - the great grandson of one of the leaders of the Rising, James Connolly. Ordinary tickets cost €15 and will be date stamped on the Easter Weekend and for all of the anniversary dates relating to the Rising making them the perfect memento of your visit during the Centenary Year. Demand for tickets is sure to be high so make sure you book early and don’t miss out on Revolution 1916.

www.ambassadordublin.com February FEBRUARY 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre Lessness by Samuel Beckett

The beguiling voice and physical presence of Olwen Fouéré invites you to reflect on the many refractions of the evocative Beckett text - Lessness. This show comes to the Mermaid stage after premiering at the Beckett International Season at the Barbican, London in June 2015.

The Gate

Juno And The Paycock

12 February

5 - 6 February Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also in the Mermaid Arts Centre this month; Being AP (1 - 2 February), Brendan Grace - It’s A Funny Old World (4 February), The Kid (7 February), An Affair To Remember (7 February), Fedelio, Alice’s Journey (8 February), Ergodos (9 February), Me, Mollser (11 - 12 February), Seussical (13 - 14 February), Songs From The Shows (17 - 18 February), Grease (19 - 20 February), He Named Me Malala (22 February), They called her Vivaldi (23 - 24 February) and Deirdre O’Kane: 1 Dee (26 February).

Bord Gais Energy Theatre Swan Lake

The Moscow City Ballet bring their signature piece, Swan Lake, to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre. The orchestra, choreography, interpretation, beauty and outstanding virtuoso performances of this version of Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece has won rave reviews and this is sure to be a spectacular performance. 11 - 13 February Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this month; The Glenn Miller Story (2 - 6 February), Giselle (9 - 10 February), The Perfect Murder (15 - 20 February), Angela Lansbury - A Celebration (21 February), Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (24 February - 13 March) and Tommy Fleming (28 February).

The Abbey All That Fall

Director Gavin Quinn’s radical interpretation of Beckett’s first radio play comes to the Abbey stage with five shows per day during its run. We encounter Maddy Rooney who is in her seventies - unsightly and ungainly - and to-ing and fro-ing between her home and Boghill Station. With no live actors, only voices and sound effects, this is sure to be an intriguing theatrical experience. 11 - 20 February Tel: 01 8872200 Also at The Abbey this month; Cyprus Avenue (11 February - 19 March) 10

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February 2016

Van Morrsion and music fans of all ages. A ten-piece band, including full brass section and special guests recreate this iconic show on a night that is sure to conjure up some musical magic.

Sean O’Casey’s mesmerising mix of comedy and tragedy set in the Dublin tenements of the 1920s is a show not to be missed. Jack Boyle and his friend Joxer Daly spend their days putting all of their efforts into avoiding work instead of finding it, much to the consternation of Jack’s long suffering wife Juno. But will an inheritance from a distant relative change their lives for the better?

Also in the Olympia this month; Joe Jackson (5 February), FM104’s Help a Dublin Child (6 February), Suede (10 February), Roisin Murphy (11 February), Walk The Moon (18 February), Gabrielle Aplin (20 February), The Night Joe Dolan’s Car Broke Down (23 February) and Skameika (28 February).

Theatre Royal, Waterford Finbar Wright

11 February - 16 April Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042 Also at The Gate this month; The Importance of Being Earnest (14 January - 6 February)

National Concert Hall

The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland. Highlights this February include The Very Best of Gilbert and Sullivan (3 February), RTE NSO Stravinksy In Focus (5 - 6 February), The 21st Festival of Youth Orchestras (13 February), Leonard Bernstein: On Stage & Screen (25 February) and The Gloaming (27 28 February). www.nch.ie

The Gaiety Big Maggie

Druid present a compelling portrait of a woman who is determined to take control of her life after the death of her husband - with money, land and secret sex all thrown into a riveting story that remains one of John B Keane’s most popular plays. 29 January - 20 February Tel: 0818 719 388.

The Olympia

The Last Waltz Live

This spectacular recreation of one of the most iconic concerts in rock history is a must for fans of Bob Dylan, The Band, Muddy Waters

One of Ireland’s best loved and popular entertainers, Finbar Wright, returns to the Theatre Royal for an evening of humour and passionate music on the eve of St Valentine’s Day. Renowned the world over as Ireland’s most romantic tenor, Finbar will celebrate the power of love and bring joy to your Valentine’s weekend. www.theatreroyal.ie Tel: 051 874402 Also at the Theatre Royal this month; Two And A Half Tenors (4 February), The Nualas: The Glitterbomb Tour (5 February), Francie Conway & Special Guests (6 February), A Viennese Strauss Gala (9 February), Des Bishop (11 February), Pat Shortt: Selfie (12 February), Eddi Reader (19 February), David Flynn (20 February), Brendan Grace: It’s A Funny World (25 February), Foil Arms And Hog (26 February) and Far Flung Trio (27 February).

Smock Alley Theatre

Smock Allies: Scene & Heard

A festival of new music, dance, theatre, comedy and spoken word that give the audience the opportunity to participate in the creative process by providing feedback to the artists before they mount and stage full scale productions (see page 16 for more details). 17 February - 5 March Also in Smock Alley this month; Trainspotting (1 - 13 February) www.smockalley.com Tel: 01 6770014


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Bi rr Castle

Gardens and Science Centre

I

t is unusual for a castle in the middle of Ireland to become a great centre for astronomical discovery but Birr Castle is not just any castle. Thanks to the Earls of Rosse, the castle became an important centre for scientific discovery in the 19th century, making it an important historical site. On top of this, the castle has beautiful gardens that are just waiting to be explored. The castle was granted to the Parsons family by James I in 1620. Two sieges during the 17th century left the family so impoverished that by the beginning of the 18th century very little improvements had been made to the house. This changed towards the end of that century, or at the beginning of the next century, with the house given a new gothic facade, which now faced the park. Around 1820 the octagonal Gothic Saloon overlooking the river was cleverly added into the space between the central block and the west flanking tower. However a fire destroyed the central block in 1836 and the centre of the castle had to be rebuilt. The ceilings were also heightened and a third storey was added to the great dining room. It was at around this time that the great telescope was built. William Parsons, the 3rd Earl of Rosse, built the telescope with the help of his wife Mary’s fortune. At the time it was the biggest telescope in the world - and remained so for a further 70 years. Named the Leviathan, it still stands in the castle grounds today, measuring 17 metres long with a diameter of 2 metres. One of the major discoveries with the telescope was the spiral nature of the nebulae. What Lord Rosse was seeing were in fact galaxies. The famous M.51 whirlpool galaxy is the classic example of this and is commemorated with a spiral of lime trees which visitors can walk around. The 3rd Earl’s son, Laurence, continued the tradition of astronomy at Birr. He was especially interested in the moon and invented a machine called the lunar heat machine which measured the heat of the moon. The accuracy of this machine was proved to be correct with the landing on the moon in 1969 and this machine is still on display in the Science Centre. The 6th Earl, Michael, created the garden for which Birr is now famous. Together with his wife Anne they transformed the castle, with the gardens now home to an abundance of rare plants, collected by the Earls of Rosse on their travels around the world over the last 150 years. Within the 50 hectares you will find the world’s tallest box hedges, over 40 champion trees, over 2000 species of plant as well as rivers, lake and waterfalls. It now has plant material collected by three generations of the family. It was the first garden in Ireland to receive specimens of Metasequoia glyptostroboides (Dawn Redwood) after 12

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February 2016

its discovery in China in 1945. Recent plant hunting expeditions by the current Earl and Countess include Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, Iran, South Africa, New Zealand, China and Bhutan. The current Earl, Brendan, opened the castle to the public in 2014 so it is now possible to view the reception rooms of the castle during the summer months. An amazing centre of historical and scientific significance, Birr Castle is open all year round and is just waiting to be explored. www.birrcastle.com

236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057


Persian Cuisine 14–15 Parliament Street, Teple Bar Dublin 1 – 01 677 3595 44/45 Lr. Camden St., Dublin 2 – 01 400 5006 Delivery Number 01 400 5700

Established in January 2000, Zaytoon restaurants have two branches in 14/15 Parliament street and 44/45 lower Camden street. They are casual diners offering kebabs served with freshly made naan bread which is cooked in a traditional persian clay oven. often referred to as having the best kebabs in Ireland. Here at Zaytoon we pride ourselves on sourcing and providing the highest quality products. All our meat and poultry are Irish and fully traceable. By day Zaytoon si full of tourists and business people, by night it’s packed to the gills with midnight revellers jostling to get one of our famous kebabs!

Opening hours: Mon–Thurs, Sun 12pm–4.30am • Fri–Sat 12pm–5am February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Photo: Patrick Donald

GPO Pat Liddy explores the history of the

N

ow one of Dublin’s most historic and iconic buildings, the General Post Office (GPO) might never have been where it is on O’Connell Street had not some houses collapsed there in 1796. First bid to redevelop the site, this time for a cathedral, was from the Roman Catholic church. Due to Protestant opposition this idea was abandoned. A more favourable view was taken when the Irish Post Office sought to erect their new headquarters here. The city’s first Postmaster was appointed in 1562 and gradually a nation-wide postal service was established. There were various locations for the Letter Office, later known as the General Post Office, before it finally settled on Sackville (now O’Connell) Street. The foundation stone was laid in 1814 and the splendid building, designed by Francis Johnston, was opened in January 1818. Fashioned in Greek Revival style with six soaring Portland stone Ionic columns, the GPO literally became the centre-piece of Dublin’s main street and the vital centre of communications, both

postal and telegraphic. Expensively restored and updated it reopened to great acclaim in March 1916 only to become smashed to ruin a mere month later. The GPO had been seized on the 24th April by rebels during the Easter Rising in order to disable the telegraph office. The building was also used as their headquarters during that fateful week. Around 300 insurgents were cooped up here by the Thursday of Easter Week by which time the British Army had begun firing incendiary shells at the building. Soon uncontrollable fires swept through the whole edifice and the rebels evacuated on Friday and surrendered the next day from nearby Moore Street. Except for the still-standing front façade, the GPO was a smouldering wreck and it would take over 12 years to rebuild it. Nearly tripled in length down Henry and Palace Streets the GPO re-opened in 1929. Now it is seen as the birthplace of Irish independence and the statue behind the central window reflects this. It represents a heroic figure from Irish mythology, Cúchulainn, who single-handedly defended his Ulster homeland against an invading army. On his plinth is an extract from the revolutionary Proclamation of Independence read outside the GPO on that Easter Monday by Pádraig Pearse, one of the doomed rebel leaders (they were later executed). Now during this centenary year of 1916, the GPO will take centre stage again with the development of a major museum to that seminal period. Known as the GPO Witness History, this modern, interactive experience will open in March. Written by Pat Liddy of Pat Liddy Walking Tours www.walkingtours.ie

Ireland’s Hall of Independence – The General Post Office 14

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February FEBRUARY 2016


Cafe Topolis 23 Parliament Street

on the edge of Temple Bar

Traditional Wood Burning Pizza Oven

Fully Licensed Restaurant

Serving a wide variety of

A pleasantly intimate italian spot with a laid back feel, located just

Early Bird Menu (Mon – Fri) – 3 Courses only €14.95

Telephone: (01) 670 4961

mouth-watering Italian cuisine.

Web: www.cafetopolis.ie February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Smock Allies:

F

Scene & Heard

From 17 February until 5 March, Smock Alley Theatre are offering you the chance to participate in a unique theatrical experience. Smock Allies: Scene & Heard is a festival of music, dance, theatre, comedy and spoken word with a simple, unique concept. All of the works are previously unseen and the audience will be given the opportunity to provide feedback to the artists before they mount and stage full scale productions. This means that you - the audience - get to participate in the creative process. There will be a range of platforms available to audience members to give their feedback, including video booths where you can privately record your pre-show expectations and postshow feedback, projected Twitter reviews, free SMS reviews and ballot box voting stations. The organisers hope that this approach will help to support the artists and also break down some of the misconceptions about theatre and the arts. “There is a common misconception that the Arts are elitist and to take the risk of buying a ticket will result in audiences being made to feel stupid,” said Caoimhe Connolly, Festival Producer and Programmer. “We are working to overcome this.” “We have programmed full length pieces by new playwrights who have never had work staged before, thirty minute pieces

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February FEBRUARY 2016

by Makers / ensembles who have devised new theatre, dance, music, musicals and music installation. We also have many established artists branching out in new creative directions,” said Caoimhe, elaborating on the type of shows that people can expect to see during the festival. “We have themes on feminism, digital addiction, rebellion, blindness, spirituality, mental health, love and loss.” The festival offers a great chance to see some of the best up-and-coming young artists in Ireland and there will be a great range of organisations presenting new productions. “We had a huge response to submissions,” said Clíona Dukes, Festival Director of Programming and Finance. “It’s a wonderful thing to see so many faces from the various training institutes represented in this programme - TCD Drama Department, The Alumni of the Gaiety School of Acting, NUIGalway, Bull Alley, The Next Stage, The SEEDS programme, DIT, UCD Dramsoc, The Lir and Inchicore.” Smock Allies: Scene & Heard is a great idea. It gives audiences the chance to see new art and offer their opinion and it also gives much needed support and encouragement to artists, all in the wonderful setting of Ireland’s oldest theatre. www.smockalley.com


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JAMESON BOOK YOUR TOUR AT

JAMESONWHISKEY.COM


Recommended Pubs in Leinster The Porterhouse

There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.

ǧ

the celt

ĆĞnj ÄŽÄ’ÄŠ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ Í•Í– ēĔĔē Temple Bar, 16-8 St,west, Dublin 2and strolling into the celt is likeParliament taking a trip to the play boys chailĂ­nĂ­01 payfor attention Tel: 679 8847and dance along the way to the early light ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ– –ƒŽ„‘– •–”‡‡–ǥ †—„Ž‹Â? …‹–› …‡Â?–”‡ ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜

The Celt

The Gravediggers

“John Kavanagh The Gravediggers, established in 1833 and still run by the Kavanagh Family today. One of Dublin’s finest bars and best pint of Plain. No music no TV, but fine pints and fine food served. Beside the old cemetery gate hence our local name The Gravediggers� 1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9. Tel: 01 8307978

Johnnie Fox’s

Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster. Glencullen, Co Dublin Tel: 01 295 5647

Tap House

Dice Bar Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

Grogan’s

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 18

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Situated on the corner of Benburb Street and Queen Street, near Smithfield Square, at Dice Bar they strive for three things – great drinks, great staff and great music. The welcoming staff offer a range of premium Irish whiskeys and if whiskey isn’t your thing then you have another great option. Dice Bar brew their own beers; the delicious Revolution Red and Augustine With so much choice and a relaxed setting, Dice Bar warrants many return visits. Open from 3pm daily. 93-94 Benburb Street Tel: 01 633 3936 www.thatsitdublin.com

Be prepared to enter into the world of true beer artistry, where friendly knowledgeable staff will guide you to that perfect beverage, served in the especially designed Munique glass, which optimises the aroma, retaining carbonation and cooling until the last drop. With possibly finest bar food and cocktails in town, your whole party will be catered for in this wonderfully unique establishment. 60 Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01-4913436. www.taphouse.ie


Recommended Pubs in Leinster 57 The Headline

Sin É

JJ Smyth’s

Sin É

Situated only a short walk from St Patrick’s Cathedral and Teeling Whiskey Distillery, 57 The Headline is the ideal spot to sample the best of Irish Craft Beers and Whiskeys. With 24 taps dedicated to the best of Irish and International beers, you won’t be stuck for choice. They offer Beer tasting trays from 3 to 9 choices and 5 Whiskey trays. They also serve the best bar food in Dublin 8 and you won’t be paying city centre prices. Visit their website for all products, opening times and more.

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is definitely the place to be.

Clanbrassil St. Lower, Dublin 8 Tel: 01 5320279 www.57theheadline.ie

14 -15 Ormond Quay Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037

With live music six nights a week, JJ Smyth’s is the home of jazz and blues in Dublin. The family run pub is steeped in history and the welcoming atmosphere keeps the loyal regulars coming back for the finest service and some of the best music that Dublin has to offer. JJ’s started out as a family owned grocery store and public house in the 1730’s and is one of the city’s oldest continuous licensed premises. It was also the birthplace of the famous Irish lyrical poet Thomas Moore, who was born there in 1779. If you love jazz and blues, then you’ll love JJ Smyth’s.

The Liquor Rooms

Doheny & Nesbitt’s

12 Aungier St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 475 2565

Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.

One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier.

7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 Tel: 087 339 3688

5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 2945

The Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. The bar is full of culture and although it is a whiskey bar, it offers a range of drinks and cocktails made using their own Dingle Gin. The Dingle Whiskey Bar is simply a must do! 44 Nassau St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4180

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Restaurant FortyOne

Camden Kitchen

Corfu Greek Restaurant

Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years. This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list.

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 4760125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

Le Bon Crubeen

41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie

Frite Haus

Frite Haus offer a unique artisan fast food experience with care and attention given to every aspect of the menu. A relaxed Belgian style ‘Chip Shop’ restaurant, Frite Haus serve authentic Belgian fries with a range of craft sauces and delicious Jane Russell sausages. Jane Russell sausages use only prime fresh cuts of Irish pork, free from preservatives so you know that you are getting the finest, freshest meat. They also serve a fantastic range of craft beers, including delicious Belgian Trappist Brewery beers. Frite Haus is the only choice for a fine dining experience at very reasonable prices. 87 Camden Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 4758948 www.frite-haus.com

Café Topolis

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12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Suesey Street

Suesey Street is Dublin’s new social destination, promising good times in the bar, great food from the kitchen and a relaxed vibe on the outdoor terrace. Located on the corner of Fitzwilliam Place, it is a welcoming space full of atmosphere and comfort, offering an informal approach to drinking and dining. The food is classed as modern Irish, changes with the season and is very creative - the flavours are awake and the customer is in for a real gourmet experience.

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality. 81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 1026 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

26 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 669 4600 www.sueseystreet.ie

Super Miss Sue

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

One of the few places to get really great fresh fish in the centre of town, and surprisingly affordable. You can treat yourself to a full meal in the restaurant proper, or a traditional fish and chips of exceptional quality in the diner next door.

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Drury St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 679 9009

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Pacino’s

Ideally situated on Suffolk Street, just off Grafton Street and opposite Trinity College, Pacino’s offers authentic Italian food in an old world vibe of stylish brickwork, wooden floors and soft lighting. The restaurant offers authentic, rustic Italian cooking with ingredients sourced from only the best local butchers, fishmongers and artisan producers. 18 Suffolk Street Dublin 2 01 6775651 www.pacinos.ie

Zaragoza

The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines. Open Mon-Sun 12noon - Midnight (last orders) 18 William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 679 4020 www.zaragozadublin.com

The Larder Restaurant & Brewhouse

Asador

La Resérve Brasserie

La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you. La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 4968825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie

Kafka Restaurant An oasis of quality, The Larder offer excellent Brunch, Lunch and Evening menus made from the highest quality, locally sourced ingredients. These dishes are finished off with herbs grown in their own walled garden and complimented by their range of own brand beers. The meal can then be topped off with their own brand coffee; Dublin Roaster. ‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food. ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

8 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6333581 info@thelarder.ie www.thelarder.ie

The Meeting House

The Meeting House has all bases covered for a great night out, with live music and DJ’s to keep you entertained and delicious, affordable Burmese cuisine served in an ‘Asian Tapas’ style. A wide range of gluten-free and vegetarian options are also available and the staff are super friendly and helpful. They also open for an amazing brunch at the weekends. Sycamore Street, Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, 01 6703330 www.themeetinghousedublin.com

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street. 14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

Thornton’s Restaurant

Chez Max

Peploe’s

Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin! Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is a smart garden at restaurant level as well as a sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are wellheated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer, diners flock to Chez Max, Baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8899

La Ruelle Wine Bar

This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them. Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. Tel: 01 478 7008

The Blind Pig

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Marcel’s Restaurant Want to know where to find the best cocktails in Dublin? We know the place but you have to keep it secret. The brainchild of award winning mixologist Paul Lambert and named after the police who turned a blind eye to speakeasies in the prohibition era in the US, The Blind Pig is Dublin’s best kept secret and the perfect place to go to enjoy the finest cocktails and the best food that Dublin has to offer. Originally a pop-up speakeasy bar, The Blind Pig is now in permanent residence and has developed a loyal fanbase thanks to the unique experience that this venue offers. So how do you find them? Give them a call, book through their website, and await further instructions. Tel: 085 874 7901 www.theblindpig.ie reservations@theblindpig.ie 22

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16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Salamanca

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie

Mykonos Taverna

Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City. 13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6602367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie

Authentic Greek food in the heart of Dublin. Mykonos Taverna offers traditional Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Kleftiko and Souvlaki at incredibly good prices. The staff are friendly and attentive and always on hand to cater to your every need, all you have to do is relax and enjoy your food! 76 Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 561 3745


Priceless treasures that belong to everyone

Free admission to the greatest collections of Irish heritage, culture and history in the world.

Open: Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm. Sunday 2pm to 5pm. Closed: Mondays including Bank Holidays

Guided Tours & Lectures. Museum Shops & Cafes. For further information Telephone (01) 6777 444

Archaeology Natural History Decorative Arts & History Country Life

Free Admission Free Exhibitions Guided Tours Museum Shops & Cafes

Family programmes & events for people of all ages. For information visit: www.museum.ie


Recommended Shopping Gandharva Loka

Gandharva Loka is a Music Store like no other. Situated in the heart of Temple Bar, this store is inspired by the teachings of Sri Chinmoy and stocks a wide variety of instruments from around the world. Traditional Irish instruments, sit alongside tibetan singing bowls, sitars, harmoniums, djembes and ukuleles in a place where anyone can find their inner musician and if you mention Travel Ireland you can avail of some great discounts. Gandharva Loka - The World Music Store 1 Cecilia Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 www.gandharvaloka.ie dublin@gandharvaloka.com +353 (01) 555 0241

Button & Co

The Button & Co boutique is home to an extensive range from their own handmade jewellery along with one off designs. They also make bespoke engagement and wedding rings, as well as jewellery that has been personally hand picked from Goldsmiths in Ireland and across the world. 7 Colbeck Street, Waterford 051 870 789 www.buttonandco.com

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 24

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Designer Exchange

Kilkenny Design Centre

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands and Tax Free shopping to non EU residents. 53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Cows Lane Designer Studio

Kilkenny Design Centre is situated in the heart of Ireland’s Craft capital, Kilkenny City. Once the Castle Stables dating back to 1760’s, Kilkenny Design is now home to three restaurants and a Shop stocking the very best of Irish products including Nicholas Mosse, Max Benjamin, Hairy Fruit Art, Áine Knitwear and Orla Kiely. Castle Yard, Kilkenny Tel: +353 56 772 2118 www.KilkennyDesign.com

Cows Lane Designer Studio is a colourful, fun retail space run by a group of independent designers and makers. With an eclectic mix of handcrafted, Irish designs including textiles, knitwear, jewellery, millinery, ceramics, prints, homewares and more, there is something for everyone. The perfect place to browse and be inspired! Unit 2, Essex Street West, Old City, Temple Bar, Dublin 8. Tel: 01 679 8366 Info@clds.ie www.cowslanedesignerstudio.ie

Patrick Donald Photo Gallery

Situated at the heart of Dublin on Dawson Street, this is a ‘must visit’ if you want to get a quality souvenir of your time in Ireland! Patrick is well known for his black & white Irish landscape and Dublin Street photography. Gift sizes images are reasonably priced at €35. He will even ship them for you anywhere in the world free of charge! 8/9 Royal Hibernian Way Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 681 5225

Kildare Village

Kildare Village is Ireland’s leading luxury shopping destination located less than 50 minutes from Dublin city. With designer boutiques providing fashion and luxuries for the home, Kildare Village offers the authentic previous seasons’ collections of a unique selection of Irish and international brands with savings of up to 60% on the recommended retail price, seven days a week and all year round. Anya Hindmarch, Coach, DKNY, Furla, Hugo Boss, and Wolford are just a few of the international brands present, as well as the boutique of Ireland’s leading international designer, Louise Kennedy. A selection of services at Kildare Village includes a Tourist Information Centre; tax free shopping, valet parking, personal shopping service and a complimentary shuttle service to the nearby Irish National Stud & Gardens. With a range of restaurants and cafés, the Village has become a destination for visitors seeking a superior shopping experience and an enjoyable day out.

www.kildarevillage.com


Recommended Shopping Celtic Whiskey Shop

Tights Department

Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street Dublin 2 01 677 7066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Celtic Spirit Gift Shop

Ireland’s premier whiskey shop has become a mecca for whiskey lovers since it first opened in 2003. They have daily whiskey tastings and the knowledgeable and experienced staff are always on hand to offer their expert advice and guidance. If you’re travelling, the staff are happy to wrap your purchases in protective wrapping and can arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 - 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 9744 / 01 675 9768 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks. 25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. +353 (0)85 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightdept.com (deliver worldwide)

The Donegal Shop

Peaches & Cream

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Situated just off Grafton Street, in the Royal Hibernian Way mall, Peaches & Cream Dublin is one Irelands Premier Bra fitting Specialists with an emphasis on outstanding customer service. As featured regularly on TV3’s Ireland Am and Xposé Peaches & Cream cater for all sizes from A-K cup and house a range of signature shape-wear products for Bridal, Every-day and Maternity. So whether it is a good Bra fitting you require or a complete body make-over Peaches & Cream is the one-stop shop for all your underwear needs. Peaches & Cream Dublin 23 Royal Hibernian Way South Anne Street Entrance Dublin 2 Telephone 01 670 8804 www.peachesandcream.ie

Celtic Spirit is a small, family run store overflowing with beautiful, Irish & Celtic Jewellery, handcrafted in Sterling Silver, Gemstones & Gold. Their Claddaghs, Shamrocks, Tree of Life, Infinity Knots and Traditional Celtic Designs, are all reminders of the unique enchantment of Ireland. What’s more, they have a fabulous ring collection and if you spend €50 and mention Travel Ireland, they will give you a FREE Sterling Silver Claddagh Ring. What a great offer. Ground Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 081 233 1898 www.celticspirit.ie

The Cloth Shop

2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonehalshop.com

The Kilkenny Shop

The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium for Irish designed products; from fashion and jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like

Walking into the Cloth Shop is not unlike walking into an art gallery, with a vast array of materials displayed on the walls. The staff ’s expert knowledge combined with the range of Irish wool and linen alongside high-end fabrics from all over the world makes The Cloth Shop an essential visit for home and professional dressmakers, tailors, shirtmakers, fashion and interior designers. 5 Johnson’s Place, South King Street Dublin 2. 01 633 7900 www.theclothshop.ie February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Leinster

The James Joyce Museum In 1904, James Joyce stayed in the Martello Tower in Sandycove as a guest of Oliver St. John Gogarty. Although his stay was short, the Martello Tower became the setting for the opening of Joyce’s masterpiece Ulysses. The Martello Tower is now the home of the James Joyce Museum, dedicated to the life and work of one of Ireland’s greatest writers. Open all year round with free admission, the James Joyce Museum has many first editions of Joyce’s work on display. Visitors can also view pictures inspired by Joyce and his work, photographs of the author, his family and his friends, and one of two plaster death masks made by the sculptor Paul Speck. The James Joyce Museum is a must visit for lovers of literature. www.joycetower.ie

Glendalough

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular visitor attractions. Glasnevin Museum proudly tells the story of modern Ireland through interactive exhibitions, re-enactments, lectures and daily walking tours. Visitors learn about the harsh realities of life in Dublin, hear about gravediggers and grave robbers, cholera epidemics, and world wars. A visit inside Daniel O’Connell’s Celtic Romantic designed crypt and iconic tower, the tallest in Ireland, forms part of the tour. There is also a genealogy research area, where extensive online records can be accessed. The museum shop stocks a terrific collection of Irish crafts, jewellery, mementos, historical books, and other interesting gift items. www.glasnevintrust.ie

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Guinness Storehouse

Croke Park

This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. Tel: 0404 45325/45352. 26

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Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. Tours are e16.50, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding. Tel: 01 408 4800.

Croke Park is the home of Ireland’s national games; Gaelic football and hurling. A tour of the stadium is a tour through Ireland’s rich history. The state of the art visitors experience offers a chance to visit team dressing rooms, go pitchside and take a seat in the VIP area. The museum tells the story of Gaelic games from ancient times to the present day and offers visitors the chance to try out their own football and hurling skills. If you’re feeling brave and have a head for heights, then why not take the incredible Skyline Tour? Visitors ascend a 44 metre walkway to take in panoramic views of the city from the top of the stadium and allows visitors to find out about key Dublin landmarks from five viewing platforms along the stadium. www.crokepark.ie www.skylinecrokepark.ie


Explore Leinster

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin

Avondale House and Forest Park

The Old Jameson Distillery Experience the Old Jameson Distillery whiskey tour and let expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson Irish Whiskey. At the end of the tour, all visitors are rewarded with a complimentary dram of whiskey at the Jameson Bar and partake in a comparison whiskey tasting session where you will learn how to tell the differences between Scotch, Irish, and American whiskey. The tour finishes at the exclusive gift store where people may choose to buy a personalised bottle or a memento of their visit. Dublin is a city famous for its whiskey and a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery is essential for any person looking to explore, sightsee or even just enjoy themselves and have a drink. Open Daily from 9am-6pm Tel: 01 8072348/ 2316

If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes. The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages. In this centenary year of the Easter Rising of 1916 there are exciting tours dedicated to this momentous event, a pivotal episode in Irish history which eventually led to Irish Independence in 1922 after 750 years of British rule. Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 00 353 1 8329406.

Casino Marino, Dublin The Casino was designed by Sir William Chambers as a pleasure house for James Caulfield, 1st Earl of Charlemont, and is one of the finest 18th century neo-classical buildings in Europe. The Casino, meaning “small house”, and notwithstanding its name, contains 16 finely decorated rooms, endlessly rich in subtlety and design. It is a remarkable building, both in terms of its structure and its history. The Casino is located at Marino, just off the Malahide Road and only three miles north of the centre of Dublin. Open 10-5pm, admission €3 or €1 for students and children. Tel 01 833 1618

The National Museum of Ireland The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History and the Decorative Arts and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions detailing all aspects of Irish life down through the ages. Admission to the museum is free all year round. Tel 01 677 7444

Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (18461891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www.coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park. Tel: 0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com

Gallery Zozimus

Gallery Zozimus, art gallery, in the centre of Dublin’s Arts and Antiques Quarter of Francis Street, is ideally situated in the centre of a triangle that comprises Christchurch, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Visitor Centre at the Guinness Hop Store. They hold a collection of Paintings, Sculptures in Bronze, Ceramic, Glass and Wood, Photography and more recently have exhibited Street or Urban art.Their’s is the largest Ceramic Gallery in Dublin exhibiting over 75 artists work Their aim is to ensure that you have an exciting array of artworks to choose from so they have created this very special place where you can view a mix of contemporary and traditional works. Gallery Zozimus represents over 120 artists, some well established and some just starting out. Opening hours: Mon - Sat 10.00 – 5.30 Sunday by appointment. Tel: 353 1 453 9057. Email: info@galleryzozimus.ie www.galleryzozimus.ie Gallery Zozimus, 56 Francis St, Dublin 8 February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Fota Wildlife Park

Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.

Limerick County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. 28

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One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’

Blarney Castle

and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.


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Explore Munster

Cliffs of Moher

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Jameson Experience, Midleton Co.Cork

The Hunt Museum

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Tours run all day, last tour 16.30pm. Adult rate is €15.00 and save 10% on adult admission by booking in advance online. bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com 30

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The Ring of Kerry (Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Midleton Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney river in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience. The old distillery buildings have been restored to their original splendor, as they looked in 1805 when whiskey was first produced on this site. Each tour culminates in the Jameson Bar with a complimentary glass of Jameson and a chance to become a “Qualified Irish Whiskey Taster”. Visitors can also enjoy a delicious lunch in the Malt House Restaurant or browse the Distillery shop, where you will find exclusive Jameson gifts.

Ring of Kerry

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252


The

Gathering

Traditional Festival

The 17th Gathering Traditional Festival returns to the Gleneagle Hotel in Killarney from 17 to 21 February with a finely tuned mix of concerts, ceilís, workshops and sessions. The festival is one of the most popular celebrations of Irish song and dance and promises sessions, morning, noon and night for lovers of traditional Irish music. The ever popular ceilís will return this year, with appearances from Neily O’Connor, Uí Bhriain, The Abbey Céilí Band, The Striolán Céilí Band and the Johnny Reidy Céilí Band. There will also be concerts from traditional music heavyweights including Ushers Island with Andy Irvine, Donal Lunny, Paddy Glackin, John Doyle, & Mike McGoldrick, Danú, Moya & Cormac DeBarra, We Banjo 3, The Tin Sandwich Band and The Trí Tones while the Singer-Songwriter hour is a new addition to this year’s lineup. This hour will feature Aoife Scott, Ger Wolfe, Tom Lucey and Ronnie Moore. The popular set-dancing workshop for advanced dancers, with Tony Ryan, returns this year, along with Sean-nós dancing with Gearóid Ó Dubháin and songs and stories from Kerry with Eddie Lenihan , Jim Maher and Batt Burns. The Session on the Lakes will also return this year - weather permitting, of course. The Gathering Festival also plays host to numerous music and dance workshops throughout the festival with some of the best tutors around. This includes intermediate/advanced masterclasses in Fiddle with Accordion, Flute and Tin Whistle.

With the traditional music trip to Sliabh Luachra, CD Launches and a whole host of concerts, The Gathering Traditional Festival promises traditional music sessions throughout that everyone can enjoy under the one roof. Better get those dancing shoes dusted off and ready for some serious fun this month in Killarney. www.thegathering.ie

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ortús

Chamber

music

FESTIVAL

A

welcome new addition to the Irish musical calendar, the Ortús Chamber Music Festival takes place from 26 - 28 February in Cork, with concerts in Youghal, Cork City and Cobh. The festival is unique in that it is organised by and features leading young classical musicians, who will present timeless masterpieces alongside some charming, lesser-known chamber music gems. The festival is the brainchild of violinist Mairéad Hickey and cellist Sinéad O’Halloran and they will be joined by Siobhan Doyle (violin), Martin Moriarty (viola), Ed Creedon (viola) and Chris Ellis (cello), who will be returning from Germany, France and the Netherlands for the festival. One of the highlights of the Festival will be the world premiere of ‘Pause’. This newly composed work by young Irish composer Sam Perkin has been written for a string ensemble and features a video commemoration of the 1916 Rising, with a special focus on Corkman Thomas Kent, who was the only Rising leader to be executed outside of Dublin. “I’ve known these two wonderful musicians, Mairéad Hickey and Sinéad O’Halloran for quite a long time,” said international pianist Barry Douglas at the launch of the event in the National Concert Hall. “They show such maturity,such passion,such

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intelligence. To run a festival, you need someone at the helm who is as passionate and as hands on as possible.You need people who really understand what the essence of music is and how to convey this to the audience. I have no doubt that they have all of these qualities. It’s quite extraordinary. I wholeheartedly endorse this Festival.” That’s quite the ringing endorsement from such a respected figure and the organisers are really looking forward to bringing such quality music to Cork and giving a platform to young musicians. “Our vision is to provide a platform for young Irish musicians, who are launching their careers internationally, to return home to Ireland to perform together,” said Sinéad. “We are also really excited about coming home to share our musical experiences with young people in local schools.” The Festival will include a strong educational component, which will be delivered in schools around Cork, thanks to the Cork ETB School of Music. This fantastic new festival offers the chance to see some potential musical stars of the future as well as take in some unique new work from a group of very talented young Irish people. www.ortusfestival.ie


GROGANS 15 South William Street Host to a continuous changing art exhibition

Anthony Peto Hats

W

orld famous hatmaker Anthony Peto has opened his first overseas store in Ireland. Guests including Louis Copeland, Eva Orsmond, Dylan Townsend and Holly White turned up for the opening of this exciting new store and Anthony knows that he has chosen the perfect location. “As soon as I get off the plane in Dublin I feel excited,” he said. “I feel I can make a difference here. It is a project that I love. Anywhere else, like Milan, it would be just another retail outlet. I want to get people interested and offer something not here already.” The store is a beautiful combination of natural and eclectic design, with oak floors

and painted glass reflecting the luxury of the wide range of hats on offer - including berets, bowlers, deerstalkers, Scottish and Irish tweed hats and his signature top straw hats. If you’re looking for unique, stylish headwear that you won’t be able to find anywhere else in Ireland then head to the Anthony Peto store on 14 South Anne Street, Dublin 2 or give them a call on 01 6359977.

Telephone 066 9320

Bamburys Guest House

Ph: 066 9151244 info@bamburysguesthouse.com Mail Rd, Dingle, Co Kerry


Cork City Cork is Ireland’s second city - although don’t tell the locals that. The fiercely proud residents of the ‘Rebel County’ won’t be slow in telling you that Cork is the ‘Real Capital’ and they do indeed have much to be proud of in their great city, which is filled full of culture and history.

W

hether you want to take in shopping on Patrick’s Street, take in a show at the Cork Opera House or discover the wonders of the English Market, Cork has something for everyone and it’s the perfect place to base yourself if you plan on exploring Cobh or West Cork, which has been home to famous names including Donovan, Angela Lansbury, Jeremy Irons and Oliver Reed down through the years. St. Patrick’s Street is Cork’s main shopping thoroughfare and here you will find many big name high street shops, such as Debenhams, Brown Thomas and

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Marks & Spencer as well as a host of locally owned businesses. Since the street was redeveloped in 2004 it has twice been voted as Ireland’s best shopping street and it’s a great place to wander through on a nice day. Just off Patrick’s Street you will find the English Market on Prince’s Street. This roofed food market has been trading since 1788 and is one of the oldest municipal markets of its kind in the world. The market stocks food from all over the world and is the source of local specialities such as drisheen (a type of black pudding), spiced beef and buttered eggs. Most of the top


restaurants in the city source their meat there and it has become a major tourist attraction in recent years - Queen Elizabeth II even paid the market a visit during her trip to Ireland in 2011. Over on Emmett Place you will find one of Cork’s cultural hubs - the Cork Opera House. This beautiful building has been in existence for over 160 years, regularly undergoing improvements to keep it in the best condition. They host top local and international shows all year round. This month alone will see Nathan Carter, Richard Hawley and Christy Moore grace the famous old stage. Other great venues for music and theatre in the city include Cyprus Avenue, Nancy Spains, Crane Lane Theatre and the Everyman Palace Theatre.

There really is no excuse for being bored in Cork - there’s always something happening in this lively, friendly city. It is home to the world famous Cork Jazz Festival and the Cork Film Festival and there is a full programme of other events all year round. This month sees the first Ortús Chamber Music Festival hit the city (see page 32 for more details) along with the Quarter Block Party and the Cork International Poetry Festival. The Quarter Block Party is a music festival that takes place on North and South Main Street in the city from 5 - 7 February. Some top local acts will play at the event, including Paddy Hanna, Donal Dineen, Bitch Falcon and Meltybrains? and it’s sure to be one hell of a street party.

The Cork International Poetry Festival takes place in venues across the city from 10 - 13 February. The festival will feature events, showcases and readings from some incredible poets; including Doireann Ní Ghríofra, Sarah Hayden, Tomica Bajsic and Gerard Smyth. The festival will also reveal the winner of the Gerry O’Donoghue International Poetry Competition a first prize of €1000, a week’s residency at the Tyrone Guthrie Centre and publication in the Southward Literary Journal up for grabs. Cork has so much to offer all year round. Chances are, you won’t be able to fit everything you want to do into one trip but don’t worry - the good people of Cork will be happy to see you return again and again to the ‘Real Capital’. www.corkcity.ie

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Recommended Pubs in Munster Jack Meades (under the bridge) Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day. Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

An Brog

An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week. 72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork Tel: 021 427 0074

Buckley’s Bar

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration. The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. Tel: 064 663 1037

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Dick Mack’s

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)


www.theblindpig.ie

Secretly tucked away in Dublin city centre, there is a cocktail bar known for the quality and artistry of its cocktails that truly evoke the mood of a 1920s speakeasy – The Blind Pig. Named after the police who turned a blind eye to the liquor rooms of the 1920s prohibition era, The Blind Pig launched as a pop-up Speakeasy bar that featured monthly, in secret, at a well known Dublin venue, Since then, The Blind Pig has developed an affectionate fanbase in Ireland and abroad.

Experience the forgotten thrill of secret passwords, false storefronts and just a touch of lawlessness. Booking is essential. Please mail reservations@theblindpig.ie requesting to see the Blind Pig at a particular time. You will then receive instructions on the location, which is less than a 2-minutes walk from Grafton St. Dublin 2. For more information go to www.theblindpig.ie

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES INCLUDING COCKTAIL CLASSES PLEASE MAIL RESERVATIONS@THEBLINDPIG.IE | PHONE: 085 874 7901

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Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Strand Inn

Tel: 051 878203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com/munsterroom-restaurant

Out of the Blue

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

The Ventry Skipper

This little gem is just what the weary traveller needs after a day of sight seeing-with amazing views accompanied by great seafood and an extensive wine list you really cant go wrong. Ventry, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 9853

The Munster Room Restaurant

They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle.

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

Dykgate St., Dingle. Tel: 086 660 3778

Rossini

The Smugglers Inn

Antonio Toscano opened this Italian restaurant in the heart of Cork City in 1994, and has always gone out of his way to staff it with his fellow country men and women, from both the North and the South of Italy. And it’s this, together with their extensive menu that makes eating here as close to actually dining in Italy as you could hope to find.

The Smugglers Inn is a family run restaurant that is ideal for casual lunch, fine dining or that special occasion. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers from all over the world and is a Bord Failte award winner. It’s not hard to see why. The Smugglers Inn pride itself on serving fresh local produce, from seafood to organic vegetables. Add in the spectacular views and friendly service and you have the perfect dining experience.

La Bohéme Restaurant & Wine Bar

Waterford Castle, The Island, Co. Waterford 38

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2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875 645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

An Canteen

33-4 Princess St, Cork City Tel: 021 427 5818

The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort was awarded 2AA Rosettes in 2001 and currently continues this elite standard further confirmed with multiple awards and its review in the 2015 Michelin Guide. With its warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls, ornate ceiling, and further complemented by an extensive wine cellar and exciting seasonal menus it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Using the finest local produce, gifted head chef Michael Thomas and his culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience.

fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Tues - Sat 5:30pm until late (Open bank holiday Sundays)

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330 www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629


I Great Irish Writers

Sean O’Casey

t seems fitting as we approach the centenary of the Easter Rising to take a look at a Great Irish Writer whose greatest works were set during that period - Sean O’Casey. His three plays, The Shadow of a Gunman, Juno and the Paycock and the Plough and the Stars are regarded as classics and two of them were set around the time of the 1916 Rising, while the other was set in the aftermath of the Irish Civil War of 1922. All three plays focussed on the lives of ordinary working class people in Dublin and they echoed O’Casey’s socialist views. O’Casey was born on the northside of Dublin in March 1880. His father, Michael, died when Sean was six years old and the family of thirteen lived a transient life thereafter, moving from house to house around Dublin city centre. He left school at fourteen with very little education but eventually taught himself to read and write and became involved in the Irish nationalist movement and the Irish Transport and General Workers Union. He also joined the Irish Citizen Army and participated in the Dublin Lockout of 1913 but resigned from the Citizen Army in 1914 and so did not participate in the 1916 Rising. However, in the aftermath of the Rising, his friend Thomas Ashe died on hunger strike in 1917 and this inspired O’Casey to write, initially writing two laments and one verse for his friend. He submitted a number of plays to the Abbey Theatre before The Shadow of a Gunman was finally accepted and staged in 1923. The play was a success’ with Juno and the Paycock being staged in 1924 and The Plough and the Stars following in 1926 to much controversy. Partly in protest at the depictions of sex and violence and partly because the play was seen as an attack on the men of the Rising, a full scale riot erupted on the fourth night of the show. However the play was still a financial success and after this, O’Casey became a full time writer. In 1926 he travelled to England to accept the Hawthornden Prize. While there he met and fell in love with Eileen Carey and they were married in 1927. He remained in England for the rest of his life and while his later work is perhaps not as celebrated as his earlier plays, he did produce an acclaimed six volume autobiography, collectively entitled Mirror in my House.

Joe McGill Joe McGill is a true artist. He’s a painter, a sculptor, a poet, a photographer and a writer whose work can be found in places as diverse as the James Joyce Tower, the Leonard Cohen Collection, Farmleigh House, the Joseph D Mashek collection in New York and the Holocaust Museum in the University of Minnesota Originally from Ireland, Joe has been living in Finland for a number of years and before that he lived in Russia. Because of this, he hasn’t had an exhibition of his work in his native Ireland for ten years but that is set to change this month as the Molesworth Gallery in Dublin is set to host his Permanently Temporary exhibition in February, which will also feature work from his friend Michelle Souter. Whatever medium he works in, Joe’s work is usually minimalist and thought provoking. “Lots of things I do, they involve many different things,” he says of his work. “They involve language and how we express ourselves.” This approach has been influenced by Buddhism, which Joe has practiced for many years. “Most of the things I make or do, they’re very meditative,” he says. “They’re for making meditation or just sitting still and looking at the objects.”

Joe’s work certainly makes you stop and think and it’s the combination of the image and the title that tell the full story of each piece. “The image is like a hook,” he says. “People get drawn in by the image and then the titles that I use make the story much broader.” As with all art, the full story is open to individual interpretation - and that’s the way that Joe would like it to be. “A lot of these things are personal to me,” he says, adding that: “If somebody gets something out of it then that’s a bonus.” Visitors are sure to get something out of Joe’s incredible work and are sure to spend hours marvelling and pondering his many creations at the Permanently Temporary exhibition. He has also confirmed that some of the paintings, ceramics and mobiles will be on show for the first time anywhere in the world. This February at the Molesworth Gallery offers a great opportunity to view the work of two of Ireland’s most respected artists and it’s sure to be a beautifully reflective experience. www.joemcgill.com www.molesworthgallery.com February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Welcome to Connaught

Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught,

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and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience

Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.


Explore Connaught

Kylemore Abbey

Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was reopened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.

Glencar Waterfall

Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Inishbofin Island

Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.

Croagh Patrick

Connemara

Mullaghmore

Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.

Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. Tel: 098 64114 February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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The

Michael Davitt Museum Experience an inspiring story of triumph over adversity at the award winning Michael Davitt Museum in Straide Co Mayo - the heart of “Davitt Country” - the birth and final resting place of one of Ireland’s greatest Patriots

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he Museum is housed in the magnificently restored 18th Century Church in which Michael Davitt was baptised. This building was in receipt of an award from The Royal Institute of the Architects of Ireland (RIAI) . The museum collection contains a wide variety of historical artefacts and personal memorabilia, displayed in a modern museum space. There is an invaluable historical archive for research, in addition to audiovisual facilities. The Museum adjoins the impressive 13th century Straide Abbey, which contains some of the finest medieval carvings in Ireland, and the site is surrounded by ornate landscaped grounds, perfect for a leisurely stroll in historic “Davitt Country”. Michael Davitt was born in Straide in 1846 at the height of the Great Famine, and from a young age experienced deprivation beyond his years. He suffered eviction, immigration, disability through industrial child labour and later imprisonment. Testament to his strength of character however, Davitt went on to achieve a revolution in Land ownership in Ireland, liberating tenant farmers and paving the way for Irish Independence. It was from his movement of passive resistance in the 19th century, which was so successful and widely admired, that later in the 20th Century other great leaders like Mahatma Ghandi of India, drew inspiration. While this was arguably Davitt’s greatest achievement, he was also credited for his involvement with the Labour Movements in Britain 42

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and Ireland. He was Patron of influential nationalist sporting organisations like the GAA in Ireland & Glasgow Celtic F.C. in Scotland. Exhibitions at the Museum trace many of the most historic events of 19th Century Irish History, from Davitt’s Birth during the Great Famine to the formation of the Land League in 1879. Museum exhibitions also reveal the depth of Michael Davitt’s achievements as an International Humanitarian. It depicts his travels throughout the British Empire including Australia and New Zealand where he advocated the rights of the indigenous Aboriginal and Maori peoples. He also authored a book titled “Life and Progress in Australasia”. He later became an outspoken critic of the AngloBoer War in South Africa, resigning in protest, his seat in Parliament at Westminster, and writing one of the few independent first hand accounts of the war entitled “The Boer Fight for Freedom”. Highlights of the Museum’s collection include the “Freedom Chest” presented to Michael Davitt in 1884 when he was awarded the title “Honorary Burgess” or Free Man of the City of Limerick, a title also given to prominent figures like Charles Stewart Parnell. The chest is richly decorated with Irish nationalist symbols – harp and shamrock motifs and is surmounted by a silver terminal representing the Treaty Stone of Limerick. Another of the Museum’s highlights include

Michael Davitt (1846-1906)

Father of the Land League International Humanitarian Social Reformer Labour Rights Activist Patron of the GAA & Glasgow Celtic FC Author

a leather bound, richly decorated book presented to Davitt in 1885 to celebrate the end of his ticket of leave conditions. There is also an extensive collection of Davitt’s personal letters, postcards and highly decorative Addresses of Welcome, presented to him during official visits in countries all over the World. The Museum offers complimentary guided tours of its exhibitions, the adjoining 13th Century Straide Abbey, and Davitt’s Tomb, in addition to an award winning audio-visual presentation. Admission is free but donations towards the upkeep of the museum are greatly appreciated. There is a modest charge for group bookings. A warm Irish Welcome awaits visitors from at home and abroad. The Michael Davitt Museum is centrally located in Mayo, on the N58 between the towns of Foxford and Castlebar, and only a half hours drive (28km) from Ireland West Airport Knock. Open 7 days 10am-4.30pm (Sundays 2-5pm) all year round. Telephone: 094 9031942 Email: davittmuseum@eircom.net www.michaeldavittmuseum.com Facebook.com/michaeldavittmuseum Twitter @davittmuseum


Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

The Cottage Restaurant

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West. Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.” Sea Road, Galway City. Tel: 091 526 003

Eala Bhán

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Waterfront House Restaurant

Ireland’s largest stockist of Designer Sunglasses If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120

The Yew Tree Restaurant

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Recommended Pubs in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad. 17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

Furey’s Pub

The Quays

Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers. Bridge St, Sligo Tel: 087 958 3080 Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!

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Bosh Bar and Restaurant Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

11 Quay St, Galway Tel: 091 568 347

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Roísín Dubh

Matt Malloy’s

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - February 2016


Welcome to Ulster

Belfast City Hall The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

Malin Head Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

the new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Giants Causeway

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall,

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Explore Ulster

The Old Bushmills Distillery

Belleek Pottery

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. Tel: 028 9076 6386

In 1608, King James I granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel: 028 2073 3218

Ulster American Folk Park

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. Visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value. The National Trust oversees the Causeway and provides the half million tourists who go there every year with all the information that they need. 46

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Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. You can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918

When you step into the world of Belleek Pottery you enter one of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages. Visitors can enjoy a little retail therapy in the Belleek Pottery showroom and no visit is complete without taking a little time out at the Belleek Pottery restaurant to enjoy some well deserved refreshments from the savoury and sweet menu served. Tel: +44(0) 28 6865 9300 Email: visitorcentre@belleek.ie Facebook.com/belleekpottery

Florence Court

Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours. Outside, visitors can discover the working estate including a sawmill, forge and carpenters shop, ice house, the historic rose garden and the mother of all Irish Yews. The Stables tearoom and Coach House gift shop are also onsite. The forest park has 10 miles of trails to enjoy on foot, by bike or on horseback. Tel: 028 6634 9001


Derry International Irish Music Festival

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ver 250 musicians from all over the world will arrive in Derry for a brand new music festival this month. The Derry International Music Festival runs from 31 January until 7 February and will feature musicians from Ireland, Scotland, Canada and the United States performing at 60 events across the city. The festival has been organised by Cultúrlann Uí Chanáin, an award-winning Irish language and culture centre in Derry city centre. The centre has become a driving force in developing the Irish language and arts in the city and they have an exciting and diverse line-up for their inaugural music festival. The headline event is Transatlantic Sessions, which takes place on 5 February in the Millennium Forum. From the award-winning Pelicula/BBC TV series, the Transatlantic Sessions features an ensemble of internationally revered folk and Americana musicians. Under the musical directorship of fiddle legend Aly Bain and dobro maestro Jerry Douglas, the house band will feature luminaries of the traditional music scene such as Michael McGoldrick, John Doyle, Donald Shaw and John McCusker. The featured

vocalists are Karen Matheson of Scottish folk band Capercaillie, blues singer Rhiannon Giddens (of Carolina Chocolate Drops), LAbased Grammy-nominees Milk Carton Kids and Derry’s own Cara Dillon, who is also the patron of the festival. “It would be impossible for me to overstate how proud I am to be Patron of the festival,” said Cara. “My concert here with the Orchestra of Ireland during Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann 2013 was probably one of my all time highlights, and the prospect of performing as part of the incredible Transatlantic Sessions is equally thrilling. A festival of this kind has been long overdue in our corner of the world and I look forward to promoting it far and wide for years to come.” The whole city will come together for the festival, with numerous bars, cafés and hotels hosting a top class Trad Trail between 4th and 7th February. Exciting young bands Connla, Talisk, Four Winds and Belfast trad-fusion band Athrú will be just some of the bands playing across the Trad Trail. There will also be a range of free events, as well as festival artist residencies in the local schools, and

the premiere performance of ‘Sasquatch’, a musical theatre show based on Irish poet Gabriel Rosenstock’s book of the same name. Local chef Emmett McCourt will present ‘Food & Folksong: A Worldwide Irish Legacy’ on 4 February. This show will explore how Irish dishes, like our folk songs, have travelled with our ancestors across the globe. The evening will include specially chosen musical performances ‘in the round’ by folk singers The Henry Girls, Mary Dillon, Kathleen MacInnes, Alan Burke, Daoirí Farrell and Kate Crossan. There will also be performances from seannós composer Lorcán Mac Mathúna, Flook (Winners of the BBC Radio 2 Folk Award for Best Group) and Adam Holmes & The Embers over the course of the festival. With such an interesting, eclectic line-up, this is a festival that has the potential to run for years and years but it’s always great to be able to say, “I was there the first year”, isn’t it? Of course it is! So get yourself to the beautiful city of Derry for some cracking Irish music this month. http://culturlann-doire.ie/derry-internationalirish-music-festival

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Recommended Pubs in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 48

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 February 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Down County Museum High Crosses are known the world over as iconic monuments of early Christian Ireland but with the ravages of time taking their toll on these important historical artefacts, the Down County Museum recently undertook a project to save the Downpatrick High Cross

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y 2013 the Downpatrick High Cross was showing signs of wear and tear, with the elements gradually eroding away their carvings. The cross is over 1100 years old and had been standing outside Down Cathedral since 1897. Down is closely associated with St Patrick and the cross is believed to be associated with the nearby shrine of St Patrick. As this was such a historically important monument, the decision was taken to move the original cross to the nearby Down County Museum and build a replica in its place, allowing visitors to see where the cross stood for many years and also to see the original cross in a new purpose-built gallery. The High Cross was moved in December 2013, with the replica being installed in its place in April 2014. The replica was made from Mourne granite blocks and was reproduced to within a millimetre accuracy by a CNC (computerised numerical control machine), using a digital model created by the Artec Studio software. It was then finished by careful hand-carving to remove signs of machining to make it a truly authentic and accurate replica. Construction of the new home for the cross then began

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in July 2014. This included a two-storey extension to Down County Museum’s rear garden area, including tearooms and new galleries dedicated to farming and the history of Co. Down, as well as the history of the gaol on which the museum is located. This work was completed in June 2015 and the exhibition and extension were opened to the public on 15 September 2015. It is free to visit during opening hours and visitors can now view the original cross at the museum and learn about the significance of the cross’ many fascinating carvings.Visitors can also view ‘Raising the Cross in Down’, a film documentary of the project, in the gallery space around the cross. Together with the nearby traditional sites of St Patrick’s Grave, Down Cathedral and the St Patrick’s Centre, it is now possible to appreciate the importance of St Patrick’s legacy in Downpatrick and view this 1100-year-old High Cross in all its glory thanks to the move to the newly improved and expanded Down County Museum. www.downcountymuseum.com



BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS

Opening time for February is 9am – 5pm (last admission 4pm) www.blarneycastle.ie

info@blarneycastle.ie

5 miles from Cork


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