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Feb/Mar/Apr 2018
Your Luxury Experience
Let us start planning your personal voyage now Boutique brunches. Luxurious lunches. Decadent dinners Spectacular sightseeing Sail and Snorkel Champagne cruises Adult cruises Family fun Special Occasions Weddings Full day, Half day, Sunset sails Day into night cruises. Spacious deck for lounging and sunbathing with a large cockpit with table for eight. Washrooms and showers. Air conditioned lounge Experienced crew and full safety equipment. Double Olympic sailor Michael Green’s private yacht which departs from The Landings five star marina.
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1
February / March /April 2018
Vol 296 Cover Photo Yoga at the beach Photo by visiting tourist Mae Wayne Publisher & Editor in Chief Doretta Francois Editor doretta.f@stluciastar.com
ROMANCE 10 WEDDING Mark and Carla Regis 11 VALENTINE’S DAY Feel the love in Saint Lucia
THERAPY 32 RETAIL Shopping: what to take back home 42 WELLNESS The benefits of yoga
VIEWPOINTS
EVENTS
TOURS
4 TEAM TT Hello from us!
8 CALENDAR OF EVENTS Festivals and holidays
18 SEA TOUR Southern Breeze sunset cruise
10 INDEPENDENCE 39th anniversary
20 UNDERWATER WORLD Talented sea creatures
6 TOURIST TALK What visitors are saying 14 READERS’ REFLECTIONS How they ended up in Saint Lucia
OUR ISLAND 27-30 PULL-OUT MAPS Find your way around 31 VILLAGE Highlights of Gros Islet 48 HISTORY Earliest inhabitants 50 CULTURE Dominoes 51 WEIRD + WONDERFUL It really happens here!
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12 EASTER How we celebrate in Saint Lucia
22 LAND TOUR Zip-line at Rainforest Adventures 24 EXPERIENCE IT Chocolate-making at Howelton Estate
FOOD & DRINK 26 HAPPY HOUR GUIDE In and around Rodney Bay 34 LOCAL STYLE Street Food 36-37 RESTAURANTS Recommendations for brunch, lunch and dinner
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
PROPERTY 44 RESORT SPOTLIGHT Harbor Club 46 REAL ESTATE Purchasing a home
DIRECTORIES
52 Tours
Claudia Eleibox Editor’s Assistant Linda Andrew Creative Director Contributing writers Doretta Francois, Claudia Eleibox, Keryn Nelson, Nelcia Charlemagne, Nick Mobley, Monetta Wilson Bill Mortley Director of Photography billmortleyphotography.com Contributing photographers Nick Mobley, Bex Photo Pro Roger Stanley, Jamie Werner, Chris Huxley, Dani Devaux Michelle Callender Ad Designs Vanessa Julien Advertising & Sales Manager vanessa.j@stluciastar.com Nickeyer Sundborg-Collymore Advertising nikki.s@stluciastar.com Christian Wayne Distribution christian.w@stluciastar.com Star Publishing Company Ltd Rodney Bay Industrial Estate, Massade, Gros Islet, PO Box 1146 Castries, St Lucia Telephone: (758) 450 7827 Fax: (758) 450 8694 TROPICAL TRAVELLER IS A Quarterly MAGAZINE
53 Shopping
54 Wine & Dine
56 Local Info
ON STANDS: Publication Dates for 2018 5th FEB, MAY, AUG, NOV. Deadline for advertising copy: 5th of the month PRIOR TO PUBLICATION
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior consent of the publishers.
Printed & Published by STAR Publishing Company Ltd
Pointe Seraphine • La Place Carenage • Hewanorra Airport 3 tel 758.458.6000 • fax 758.452.7587 harryedwardsjewelers.com ST. LUCIA
Team TT Small island
with lots to offer
Small island with lots to offer! We at TT are immensely proud of Saint Lucia, and justifiably so. Wonderful climate, stunning scenery, beautiful beaches, Caribbean sea, friendly people . . . The list goes on. Here our Publisher, Editor and writers reveal what makes each day superb for them and how easy it is for you to have a slice of our lovely island life.
I
If Oprah Says We’re Special . . . We’re Special!
fell in love with Saint Lucia 29 years ago and soon afterward started promoting the island’s uniqueness, its beauty spots, its out of the way beaches and all those other attributes that make Saint Lucia special. In May 1989 I created a vehicle specially for the purpose of showing off my adopted home: Tropical Traveler, soon to be known simply as TT. As we approach our 30th year of publishing this magazine that highlights in every publication why our island is synonymous with the legendary beauty, Helen of Troy, I take great pleasure in releasing yet another edition—but with a new rebranded look! When TT made its first appearance, our island’s economy depended largely on bananas. Over the years tourism has become our main industry. I have observed up close Saint Lucia’s transformation from a sleepy, quiet island with three or four hotels into a must-visit destination, bustling with exciting activity and luxury resorts. I’m often asked how I maintain my enthusiasm for the publication after so many years, especially with things as they are for publishing worldwide. The answer is: Love. Love not only for the country itself but also for its people, always friendly, always welcoming. Then there is the fact that our island continues to evolve; there is always something new to be seen if, as the late Derek Walcott was fond of saying, you have eyes that can appreciate the beauty of nature. True, we have our problems, most of them beyond our control. But there can be no argument that we are lucky who can call Saint Lucia home. We’re also happy and proud to share it with our visitors, including some especially well known, like Oprah, who advised readers of her own magazine that Saint Lucia was one place everyone should visit before their final departure. Consider TT your invitation to visit and explore nature at its most inspiring!
Mae
W
elcome to the new look and style of Tropical Traveller. Regular readers can be reassured that your favourite pages are still here - we all like to know what the visitors think of our island (Tourist Talk is on page 6) and where to go for a happy hour drink (our guide to watering holes in and around Rodney Bay is on page 26). For first-time readers our aim is to help you settle into Saint Lucia and get the most of your time here with our suggestions on where to go and what to do (see especially our tour features on pages 18 to 24 and the pull-out maps on the centre pages), where to dine (pages 34 to 37), what to buy (page 32) and what’s ‘weird and wonderful’ about this island (page 51). Our hope is that you will feel so ‘at home’ that you become a repeat visitor or even contemplate buying property as a second home or as an investment. For advice in that direction turn to the article on page 46. Saint Lucia is a wonderful place to live, having a great climate, stunning scenery, beautiful beaches and friendly people, not to mention direct flights to several US cities, Canada and the UK. A good number of residents were born elsewhere but were drawn by the island’s beauty, charm and a certain ‘magical’ quality, so they ended up staying, like the couple featured on page 14. If you number among the outsiders who became locals, TT would love to hear your story. Whether you are a first-time visitor, a return ‘friend’ of the island or a resident, TT wishes you happy days, nights, adventures and fulfillment in our piece of paradise.
Doretta
Publisher
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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Editor
H
i, I’m Linda. I was born in Sweden, lived in the UK and States and have been very happily settled in Saint Lucia for 10 years. I came here on business and fell in love with the island. Then I fell in love with a man and gained a husband! Val works in the evenings so when we were dating we would hook up at the end of his shift and go to Gros Islet for a drink and a bite to eat (see our Village feature on page 31 and our guide to Street Food on page 34). I have special memories of one Valentine’s Day when he took me to Cap Maison resort for a romantic meal in one of the best restaurants on the island: The Cliff at Cap. It’s my recommendation for the place to be on 14th February, or anytime you want to celebrate love. Val and I have three children: Dexter, Maxwell and Kenya. (Editor’s note: three cherubs is more like it!) Our world revolves around them so we love going to the beach, going to the park, playing with our cats, eating pizza and ice cream - all the simple pleasures in life that are fun for the entire family. Coming to Saint Lucia opened up a whole new, wonderful world for me. I hope it does the same for you.
Linda Creative Director
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Visitors Q&A
Tourist Talk
Karine Romero
Gemma and Brad
Karine Romero and her children, Salome, Sarah and Ruben, and her friend Nadiege Hannibal and daughter, Jessy, all from Saint Joseph, Martinique, were enjoying the zip line at Rainforest Adventures.
We encountered this fun-loving couple in Soufriere
Martinique
TT: How often do you come to Saint Lucia? Karine: Once or twice a year. It’s a real change of scenery for us. TT: What do you like about the island? Karine: People are very friendly. We like the beaches, the food and Lucian music and dancing. TT: Where do you stay and why? Karine: This time we booked a guest house, La Piccola, with Air bnb. Sometimes, I make a reservation with my timeshare points to stay at resorts. TT: What do you like to do? Karine: We love beach activities. We also like the sulphur springs, mud baths and Botanical Gardens at Soufriere. TT: Which restaurants do you recommend? Karine: Angel’s delight, in Gros Islet, near to Stephanie’s Hotel. Angel cooks very well, (try her lambi!) and it’s not expensive. We also like eating at Castries market restaurants. TT: Are there any local foods that you like? Karine: We love rotis, local natural juices, pastries (coconut especially) and bread, lambi, and fish, of course. TT: What do you take back home? Karine: Vanilla essence and banana ketchup.
Gibraltar
We met Geoff and Patti on a catamaran cruise.
TT: Hi! What brings you to Saint Lucia? Brad: Warmth! It’s -28 degrees back home but here it’s +28. TT: What have you been doing? Brad: We’re staying in Rodney Bay so we’ve spent time on the beach, at the marina and on Pigeon Island, and I’ve been hiking, snorkelling and birdwatching. Gemma: Today is our best day so far, coming down to Soufriere, seeing the Pitons, doing the mud bath, visiting Diamond Waterfall and the Botanical Gardens. TT: What do you think of the local food? Gemma: We love it! I’ve had fresh fish just about every day and I’m a fan of pumpkin soup. Brad: I’m on more of a liquid diet: rum punches and gallons of fresh coconut water that I buy from the roadside vendors. TT: Which restaurants would you recommend? Brad: The pizza and atmosphere were great at Harbor Club. Gemma: Jambe du Bois on Pigeon Island, for the fantastic banana crumble. TT: What will you be taking home with you? Brad: I love spicy food so I’m stocking up on hot pepper sauce. TT: Will you be back? Gemma: For sure! There is so much to see and do that one week hasn’t been enough.
Share your pictures with us
6
Geoff and Patti
From Kenora, Ontario, Canada
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
@tropicaltraveller
#tropicaltraveller
TT: What inspired you to travel all the way to Saint Lucia? Geoff: We came here once before and liked it so much that we wanted to return. TT: What do you like about Saint Lucia? Patti: I love gardening so I like all the stunning flowers, plants and trees. Geoff: The people are so helpful and friendly. The staff at The Landings, where we are staying, are superb, and I give the taxi drivers a gold star. The driver from the airport took us on a detour to see the Governor General’s house. TT: What have you done on this trip? Patti: This is a ‘chill-out’ holiday but we’ve enjoyed several boat trips and climbed Pigeon Island; the view was wonderful. Geoff: I had fun exploring Rodney Bay village. I recognised Spinnakers from our first visit so I popped in for old time’s sake and a dark rum mohito! TT: Which restaurants would you recommend? Geoff: Spinnaker’s jerk ribs and the curry at Jambe de Bois stood out for me. TT: What will you take home with you? Patti: Excellent memories! That aside, we always take home some hot pepper sauce and rum cake.
W W W.L AN D IN GSR E SID E N C ES .COM
Own the view. Luxury 1, 2 and 3 bedroom waterfront homes from US $450,000 to US $4 Million Discover The Landings for yourself, call +1 758 452 0422 email michaelg@landingsresidences.com or visit www.landingsresidences.com 7
Wednesday 14th Valentine’s Day
(see feature on page 17)
Thursday 22nd Independence Day public holiday
Friday 30th Good Friday - public holiday
(see feature on page 12)
Tuesday 1st Labour Day - public holiday
Jun
(www.soleilsaintlucia.com)
Sunday 13th Mother’s Day celebrate at Pigeon Island Monday 21st Whit Monday - public holiday
The whole month is a build-up to July Carnival with competitions, parades, pageants and parties.
Wednesday 30th Epic Wednesday kicking off carnival (www.soleilsaintlucia.com)
(www.soleilsaintlucia.com)
Thursday 31st Corpus Christi - public holiday
Sunday 17th Father’s Day
Oct
The entire month is a celebration of our Creole heritage. It will feature
Dec
A month for sailors! Participants in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) will arrive on our shores, their accomplishment celebrated with events over several weeks.
Aug
Finals of competitions, more parades and parties. The highlight of Carnival is Monday 16th and Tuesday 17th Parade of the Bands public holidays
Sunday 1st and Monday 2nd Easter holiday
Sunday 6th to Sunday 13th Saint Lucia Jazz
(see feature on page 10)
Jul
Apr
May
Feb
Mar
Events Calendar
Monday 1st Thanksgiving - public holiday
Wednesday 1st Emancipation Day public holiday
Tuesday 16th to Saturday 20th St. Lucia Billfish Tournament
Thursday 30th La Rose Festival
slugamefishingassociation
Thursday 13th National Day - public holiday
Wednesday 17th La Marguerite Festival
Tuesday 25th Christmas Day - public holiday
Sunday 28th Jounen Kweyol
Wednesday 26th Boxing Day - public holiday
Oktoberfest en Kweyol Arts and Heritage Festival (www.soleilsaintlucia.com)
(facebook @
Friday 31st to Sunday 2nd September Roots and Soul Festival (www.soleilsaintlucia.com)
8
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
The Mango Bowl Sailing Regatta takes place. Wednesday 12th Festival of Lights and Renewal
www.soleilsaintlucia.com
A TASTE OF BOURBON STREET Harbor Club, Rodney Bay (7 PM) USD100/ECD270 per dinner set Thursday May 10 & Friday May 11 (Dinner Set each day) Jazzmeia ‘Jazz’ Horn A MUSICAL TAPESTRY Royalton Saint Lucia Resort & Spa (7 PM & 11 PM) USD40/ECD100 per show
A WORLD OF JAZZ
Sandals Grande St. Lucian Spa & Beach Resort (7 PM) USD40/ECD100 per show
Friday May 11 Lalah Hathaway
Monday May 7
Saturday May 12 Alfredo Rodrнguez
Barbara Cadet Denys Baptiste Tuesday May 8 Pauline Jean Arnaud Dolmen Wednesday May 9 Zara McFarlane Etienne Mbappé and the Prophets Thursday May 10 Cameron Pierre Luther Francois Friday May 11 Carolyn Malachi AZIZA, featuring Chris Potter, Dave Holland, Lionel Loueke and Eric Harland.
MOTHER’S DAY SPECIAL Pigeon Island National Landmark (2 PM) USD50/ECD$135 Sunday May 13 The Frantz Laurac Quartet Ronald ‘Boo’ Hinkson & Friends R+R=NOW with Robert Glasper, Terrace Martin, Christian Scott, Derrick Hodge, Taylor McFerrin and Justin Tyson Avery*Sunshine
re-invented
COME AND SEE WHAT
RESTAURANT
IS A L L A BOUT
Great food, cocktails and vibes! Located opposite The Royal St Lucian Hotel, Rodney Bay
For reservations call 458-0450 E: buzzreservations@gmail.com
Follow us on Facebook & Instagram
Water’s edge al fresco dining specialising in the island’s freshest seafood. 2 happy hours daily from 5-7 p.m. + 10-11 p.m. Live entertainment Saturday evenings featuring saxophonist Barbara Cadet. Dress code - resort casual Complimentary ferry ride
TELEPHONE (758) 451 4974 North Side, Marigot Bay
9
Events
Independence Day
22nd February is an important date in the Saint Lucian calendar: it is the anniversary of the day that our nation gained independence. The day is celebrated as a public holiday.
National Anthem "Sons and Daughters of Saint Lucia"
S
aint Lucia’s independence came amidst gunshot blasts and blazing fires, but not of a treacherous kind – they were celebratory explosions mimicking the uproar of pride and gratitude of a newborn nation. Our little gem under the sun and home to the Caribs had been taken over by the French. They in turn fought against the British, with control of our strategically placed island changing hands fourteen times, until Britain finally vanquished the French in 1814. On 1st March, 1967 Saint Lucia achieved a measure of self-governance when it became an Associated State of the United Kingdom. It was not until 1979 that the country gained full independence - on 22nd February under the leadership of Premier John Compton, making him the country’s first prime minister.
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SAINT LUCIA NATIONAL PLEDGE With God as my guide, I pledge allegiance to my country, Saint Lucia. I proclaim that I will serve my country with pride and dignity and will defend it with vigour and valour in the pursuit of excellence, justice and equality for all. Authored by Jeff "Pelay" Elva
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Following the ceremonious signing of documents, Saint Lucia became entirely self-governing and was free to move forward with autonomously strengthening its international relations. Independence gave way to the establishment of the Saint Lucian passport, Constitution, and the legitimization of the national anthem. Ties have been maintained with Britain as the island remains a part of the Commonwealth. In an audio recording dating back to February 22nd 1979, Compton can be heard saying, “This moment has been celebrated with the sounds of guns, but these guns are being fired in salutation and not in anger. The distant hills - will come the glow of fires but these fires are fires of celebration . . . From the voices of our children have come songs . . . of praise and gladness for this day, the day of our independence!”
Sons and daughters of Saint Lucia, love the land that gave us birth. Land of beaches, hills and valleys, fairest isle of all the earth! Wheresoever you may roam, love oh love, our island home. Gone the times when nations battled for this 'Helen of the West'. Gone the days when strife and discord dimmed her children's toil and rest. Dawns at last a brighter day, stretches out a glad new way.
May the good Lord bless our island, guard her sons from woe and harm. May our people live united, strong in soul and strong in arm. Justice, Truth and Charity, our ideal forever be!
The lyrics are by Charles Jesse. The music – a beautiful melody - was composed by Leton Felix Thomas. Lucians love to sing their national anthem and will do so in schools and at many public events. The anthem was adopted in 1967 when Saint Lucia achieved self-government and was confirmed as the official anthem upon independence in 1979.
Come do it all!
vOlCANO mudbATH ZIPlININg PITONs WATERFAll
sNORkElINg EsTATE TOuR
Experience ’S St luCiA y Onl Newest & PlINE Tandem ZI
No Better Way to SpeNd your day! For more information on any of our tours please contact: T: (758) 458 0123/452 8644 E: info@seaspraycruises.com | www.seaspraycruises.com
PIRATE’s Full dAy, HAlF dAy, suNsET CRuIsEs & PRIvATE CHARTERs All tours include refreshments & transfers
Children under 12 hAlf priCe
11
Events
Easter
Easter is early this year: the holiday runs from Good Friday on 30th March through to Easter Monday on 2nd April. Religion is strong in Saint Lucia and Easter is observed by many as a time of solemnity and for reflection. Even so, remembering the resurrection of Christ is a cause for celebration. Here’s how we do it in Saint Lucia.
Good Friday The Catholic churches hold a procession that we call “Way of the Cross’. Early in the morning, people walk slowly through the streets, following a group carrying a wooden crucifix. Some carry candles; all are praying and meditating. Many Lucians spend Good Friday in fasting and prayer. It is not a day for merriment. We generally avoid the beach as our tradition is that one should not wash in rivers that day, or bathe in the sea, or do gardening. The thought is that ploughing the ground would prick Christ’s body and that rivers and seawater would turn into his blood.
Easter Egg Hunt
Imported from other countries, the tradition of an Easter egg hunt is now an annual event in some communities and at many resorts. Mix in a little face painting and an Easter bonnet competition, and the kids are well and truly happy.
Easter Monday
This is the day of celebration, with the fun of beach parties and family gatherings. There is a glorious, colourful sight in the skies: kite-flying, by children and adults. For generations, kite-flying has been an Easter pastime here, originally with home-made kites but increasingly with shop-bought ones. Friendly rivalry exists: who can fly their kite the highest? For the longest time? Do the most dives and swoops and acrobatic manoeuvres? It’s a joy to watch but feel free to join in.
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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Easter Fare
A delicious ginger wafer biscuit is consumed over Easter that we call ‘penepis’. This derives from the French ‘pain d’espice’ (spiced bread) although there is another explanation for the name: the shortened version of ‘penny-a-piece’ as the wafers used to be sold for a penny each in days gone by when the currency here was the British pounds, shillings and pence. Like many other countries, hot cross buns are now popular at Easter.
MAKE EVERY OCCASION SPECIAL WEDNESDAY GAMES NIGHT 7:30 - 9PM
BRING YOUR FRIENDS & BRING YOUR GAME, MEET NEW FRIENDS & AND GAIN THE FAME!
Open for Breakfast from 9am Lunch from 11:30am – 3pm Daily lunch special available: 2 courses $50 3 courses $55 Vegetarian available High Tea available from 4pm
GOLF CLASSES TUESDAY @ 10AM Ladies Swing and Sip 1h WEDNESDAY @ 10AM Golf Clinic 1h
EVERY FRIDAY BRING YOUR FRIENDS!!! AFTER WORK LIME 4 - 7PM & BBQ DINNER 7 - 9PM DRINK SPECIALS
HAPPY HOUR
SPECIAL EVENT SPACE FOR WEDDINGS, PARTIES AND CATERING,
please contact us for pricing and availability
MONDAY TO SUNDAY 4 - 7PM & 2:4:1 DRINKS SPECIAL BAR SNACKS MENU ALL ARE WELCOME
Sandals Golf and Country Club
THURSDAY @ 10AM Ladies Swing and Sip 1h FRIDAY @ 10AM Inter Hotel and Villa Guest Competition 4.5h SATURDAY • Ladies Swing and Sip 1h @ 11am • Mens Swing and Sip 1h @ 1pm • Kids Golf Clinic 1h @ 1:30pm All are welcome, sign up required for all classes
758.450.8523
Why not tonight? Call us to book.
+1 (758) 450 0210 / 485 7189 Rodney Bay • MC / VISA bigchefsteakhouse@gmail.com www.bigchefsteakhouse.com
info@stluciagolf.com
GLOBAL TASTES FROM PARADISE
French Creole & Seafood Cuisine Old World Charm in a Rustic Caribbean Setting netted in the romantic Marigot Bay Village, Largest Seafood Menu on the Island.
Open all day 11am till late
For reservations! Call 451-5889 or 728-1340 or visit us on facebook.com/piratebaymarigot
TO RESERVE YOUR WATERSIDE TABLE CALL:
+1 (758) 451 2433 • +1 (758) 485 7189 Rodney Bay MC / VISA | www.tapasonthebay.com
13
From Our Readers
How we came to be in
SAINT LUCIA
While taking sailing lessons in cold, wet England this reader never imagined that one day he would be living his dream by operating a business in warm, sunny Saint Lucia.
By Ben Thompson of First4Sail
I
have always had a fascination with the ocean and boats. It was easy to look at these beautiful yachts in the marina or sailing majestically out at sea, but how could one actually get aboard? I longed to feel what it was like to be propelled across the ocean’s surface by the wind, taking the helm and pointing the bow to some unknown tropical destination. Like many a would-be sailor, I commenced sailing lessons in small dinghies, often being unceremoniously dumped in the cold water, but I learnt the basics of sailing, and the principles of a small boat apply to big ones as well. Later in life I decided to obtain some certification because I had no friends with boats, and this seemed the only way that I could get out on the water. Living in the UK gave me the opportunity to learn in the sailing mecca of the south coast. It was always a little cheaper to go in the winter so there were times when I found myself out in the middle of Southampton water — cruise ships and containers motoring by — on deck, trying to pick up a bucket for our man overboard exercises in the pouring rain and freezing cold. It was hard work and, with the addition of unpleasant weather, the call of the fireside in the pub was loud. The distant dream of sailing in tropical waters spurred me on. I persevered and worked my way up the training ladder, and began to get work delivering boats. Bringing other peoples boats back from Europe to the UK, and from the UK to Norway, wasn't the Caribbean paradise that I yearned for but it
was great fun, if not a little arduous, and I learnt a lot. As my experience grew, I took on more challenging trips. I applied for crew work further afield, delivering yachts from Thailand to Sri Lanka and from Mexico to Panama. It was on one of these deliveries that the strange twists and turns of life occurred and a suggestion was made that my girlfriend and I should buy a boat, sail it to Saint Lucia and start a business. Well, why not? Soon Vicky and I were doing just that. This is how I eventually found myself captain of my own yacht, Papagayo, with her bow pointing directly at Pigeon Island, our destination being dazzling Saint Lucia. Saint Lucia is a fantastic place to sail, with almost constant winds and sunny skies (OK, barring the odd, little rain shower) so it’s the ideal place to give sailing a try. The island has many fine excursions on the
water where the guests get to experience the view of the beautiful landscape and enjoy a lime or a wonderful sunset but we found that none taught and encouraged active participation. Remembering how hard we both found it to get into the world of sailing and on board a yacht, we wanted to start a unique company that would offer just that, catering for complete novices or someone who wanted to experience more but without necessarily having to do a full course. Papagayo is a 40ft offshore race yacht built in California that has raced extensively in the Pacific Ocean. Due to her thoroughbred nature she makes for a lively and entertaining sail that requires much tweaking of sails and winching of lines as she takes off on a gust of wind, heeling over and giving the passengers a fun ride. We encourage all our guests (or crew, as we call them) to take the helm and grab a winch handle so they have immersive, hands-on experience as they discover the delights of sailing. As well as half and full day experiences, First4Sail offers overnight trips along with Internationally recognized sail certification courses to all levels. First4Sail,
Tel. 518 1187 or 717 1628 Email: info@first4sail.com
Tropical Traveller would be delighted to hear from readers telling us how they ended up in beautiful Saint Lucia, whether to stay here long-term or passing through. Email the Editor at doretta.f@stluciastar.com
14
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
15
Wedding Bells
The Cake
Mark made the gorgeous wedding cake! “I’m very good with my hands,” he admits, and proved it with this splendid creation. Baked with love, the bottom tier was a fruit cake while the top tier was a glutenfree sponge cake so that Carla could indulge.
An Excellent
Investment
C
arla and her family are from Broadstairs in England. Ten years ago, when they were searching for property to purchase, they discovered The Reserve condominiums in Rodney Bay. Mark, from Dennery, was working with the developer. He was a young, amiable man and the whole family befriended him, especially Carla’s parents, Carole and Tony, who would spend the winter months here. Mark went to college to became a certified commis-chef, and then worked for four years at Discovery in Marigot Bay. He kept in touch with the Wilkinson family although Carla did not see him for a few years. When she did, she was impressed with how he had matured into a handsome, polite and hard-working gentleman. A few more years passed; Carla and Mark
were dating people in their own countries but they maintained a strong friendship. By 2016 they were both single. That year, when Carla came to join her parents in Saint Lucia, she and Mark greeted each other with their usual hug, but this time it felt different for both of them. “That’s when I put my spell on you!” jokes Carla. Mark is a romantic and proposed to Carla on beautiful Mount Pimard, overlooking the waters of Rodney Bay, on Easter Sunday 2017. Their wonderful wedding was on 5th January, 2018 on Pigeon Island. Tony has a boat and, on his daughter’s big day, he sailed with her from the dock at The Reserve over to Pigeon Island. Family and friends had gathered from the UK and Dennery, even Texas. A steel pan musician played UB40’s “I Can’t Help Falling in Love with You” as Carla was escorted down the aisle to join Mark. They exchanged vows
and rings and then participated in a sand ceremony, mixing grains from Broadstairs and Saint Lucia to signify their union. After official photos, the guests returned to The Reserve on a catamaran with saxophonist Rob Zii Taylor and singer Phyness entertaining them. Mark and Carla sailed back on her father’s boat, relishing their time together as Mr and Mrs Regis and toasting the occasion with champagne. The happy couple are now living in England. Said Mark just days after their wedding: “I am looking forward to my life. The option of going back home to visit friends and family will always be there. The new chapter now is with my wife.” TT wishes Mark and Carla every happiness. Mark and Carla’s special day was organised with care and precision by Awesome Caribbean Weddings: tel. 450 0300 Email: talktous@ awesomecaribbeanweddings.com www.awesomecaribbeanweddings.com If you are interested in looking at real estate opportunities (whether or not they lead to something more than falling in love with our island!) read our feature on page 46.
What you need to know to tie the knot in St. Lucia • Passports (valid for a minimum of six months) • Birth certificate • Two witnesses (stand-ins can be arranged) • Deed poll certificate (if your name has been changed) • Parental consent by way of an affidavit if below 18 • Death certificate and previous marriage certificate (if you have been widowed) • Decree absolute (if you’re divorced) • Only originals or certified copies • All legal documents should be faxed to the resort you are staying at to start the legal process. Documents in a foreign language require authorised English translation. Fees in EC: • Marriage License: $335 (seven days before marriage) • Special Marriage License: $540 (less than seven days before marriage) • Registrar fee: $160 • Marriage Certificate: $8
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wedding Photo by Bex Photo Pro
Carla and family fell in love with Saint Lucia a decade ago, so much so that her parents decided to buy a second home here. Little did any of them realise that looking at real estate opportunities would lead to Carla finding love and marrying Mark. Now that’s what TT calls an excellent investment!
Romance
Valentine’s Day
Saint Lucia is a brilliant place to be on Valentine’s Day. Our island oozes romance - that’s why it’s one of the world’s top wedding and honeymoon destinations. But whatever stage you are at in the dating game, you can impress your partner with these suggestions for celebrating love, Lucian style.
a Gift Who doesn’t appreciate the gift of a piece of jewellery or a timepiece? For a small island we have a large selection of quality jewellery stores so finding the perfect present will be easy. EFFY at Pointe Seraphine has exquisite and novel designs in rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and cuff links. Harry Edwards Jewelers at Pointe Seraphine and La Place Carenage stocks a superb selection of watches, jewellery, sunglasses and accessories. Treat yourself and purchase matching his and hers items!
A Meal
Plenty of resorts and restaurants will feature a special Valentine’s Day menu. One of the most romantic spots for a meal any time of the year is BUZZ in Rodney Bay (tel. 458 0450) with its delightfully lit garden setting; the customized menu for 14th February makes it the perfect spot to woo your loved one. Or take your partner to Bay Gardens Hotel (tel. 457 8000) where the annual Valentine’s Day dinner takes place amid decorations galore. Book early!
(Jewellrey from www.harryedwardsjewelers.com)
If you prefer to avoid the crowds and do your own thing then TT suggests packing a cool bag with ice, a bottle of champagne, fruit, cheese, perhaps a shrimp salad, and heading for a beach or hill on the west coast. Pigeon Island in the north, Anse Chastanet at Soufriere and Black Bay in the south are among our favourites. Time your arrival for late afternoon so that you can enjoy the last rays of the day and watch the sun set (it will be at 6.08 pm on 14th February). Seal the moment with a kiss!
Patricia Lee Fancy performing the massage on each other in the privacy of your room or home? Then we suggest Patricia Lee’s West Indian Warmth Massage and Body Oil. Featuring Saint Lucian coconut oil, a blend of essential oils of nutmeg to warm up the muscles, and the pacifying scent of vanilla, your mood will soon drift to a heavenly place of sweet surrender. www.patricialeeproducts.com, tel. 715 1515.
A Sensual Indulgence What could be more appropriate on Valentine’s Day than a couple’s massage? Saint Lucia has plenty of spas that are within resorts or that stand alone. We recommend the couple’s massage at The Landings Resort & Spa in the north (tel. 458 7300, www.landingsstlucia.com) and at Stonefield Villa Resort in Soufriere (tel. 459 5648, www.stonefieldresort.com).
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Tours ~ By Sea
See the Sunset in Style aboard
Southern Breeze
If you are used to travelling first class then you will feel right at home on Southern Breeze. Take a late afternoon sail to experience a touch of luxury on the water, topped off with a beautiful Lucian sunset. Wonderful memories are made of this!
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The Sunset Experience
rom the moment you step on board Southern Breeze, you know that the next few hours are going to be pleasurable. The boat has class; the elite crew offer a polite and friendly welcome; hors d'oeuvres and finger foods are laid out ready for you to taste, and the barman has an array of alcoholic and soft drinks including a flute of Prosecco with your name written on it. And you haven't even set sail yet! The sunset cruise lasts two hours, sailing in the waters of the Caribbean Sea on the west coast of Saint Lucia. But this is no ordinary boat trip: Southern Breeze exudes comfort and
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style, and the efficient crew are on hand to attend to your needs. A refill, Sir? Some more food, Madam? This makes it a joy to sit back and wallow in the luxury lifestyle while taking in the stunning views. The limited number of guests on board means that you easily become acquainted. And if you happen to be engaged in deep
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
conversation when the sun is about to set, a crew member will gently alert you so that you do not miss the magical sight. The attention to your comfort, safety and happiness are paramount. A cruise on Southern Breeze is an absolute treat and will count as one of your most memorable sailing experiences.
The Boat
Southern Breeze is a beautiful and immaculate 46-foot catamaran used only for bespoke short cruises accommodating small groups (or a decadent couple!) This privatelyowned vessel has an air-conditioned lounge, deluxe bathrooms and spacious sun decks fore and aft.
The Options
Sunset Cruises - Southern Breeze departs from the private marina at The Landings Resort on Wednesday afternoon and from the dock at Windjammer Landing Villa Beach Resort on Thursday afternoon. You should book in advance as numbers are limited. Bespoke Charters - Southern Breeze is available for private hire. A cruise can be designed to meet your specifications to ensure the perfect day. The unique price package will depend on the number of guests, the catering option selected and the time spent at sea. The catamaran's facilities and the experienced, attentive crew are ideal for accommodating small groups for special occasions or for no other reason than to enjoy life. Contact www.stluciaboattours.com Tel. 450 8651
DAY TOURS TO ALL THE BEST EXPERIENCES IN ST. LUCIA VOLCANO MUDBATHS ESTATE TOUR WATERFALL SNORKELLING MARIGOT BAY INCL TRANSUDES ENTRA FERS, N E FE ES, JUICE, C DRINKSSOFT PUNCH , RUM MIXERS , RUM, , EERS & LUNB CH
AVAILABLE FOR WEDDINGS, CRUISES & SUNSETS FOR SMALL OR LARGE GROUPS
For information on our tours call or check our website:
Tel (758) 450 8651 www.stluciaboattours.com 19
Tours ~ Underwater
Jawfish: Wait, what’s that in its mouth? Looks a bit like bubblegum! In fact, the jawfish is a ‘mouth brooder’, effectively babysitting its young eggs until they are ready to leave home!
Unexpected Talents of
Sea Creatures
Cleaner Shrimp: These tiny little guys wave their long antenna as bigger creatures swim by in order to give them a clean, like in a carwash. If you are careful, you can place your hand nearby and they may choose to jump on and give you a manicure!
By Nick Mobley of Dive Saint Lucia
When we look at people, we often try to guess what jobs and characteristics they have: what they do, where they live, how they spend their time. When we think about the underwater world, we often skip over such details – they’re just fish, right? Well, here are a few creatures from the Saint Lucian waters that may surprise you.
Lionfish: This impressive fish is actually an invasive species to the Caribbean. It opens its wings to guide its prey into a corner before it pounces on its victim – the archetypal hunter!
Mantis Shrimp: There are many strange-looking creatures in the ocean. It’s not hard to see where sci-fi film directors may get their inspiration. This chap would be quite at home piloting his alien spaceship!
Banded Coral Shrimp: Take a look at this little guy – you might think the moray eel is about to have a tasty snack. No way! The shrimp is actually cleaning the moray – a little like your local dentist!
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Sand Tile Fish: These are one of the builder species of the seas. They construct tunnels and ‘bunkers’, fetching and carrying coral from around their homestead with a view of securing themselves from predators!
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Tours ~ By Land
Zip-lining through the Trees
Do you want the chance to release your innermost Tarzan and swing through the trees of the rainforest? No lianas, but zip-lines offer a safe and exhilarating way to fly through the air with the greatest of ease.
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Fun at a high level! o you have a gung-ho spirit? Then the exhilarating Adrena-line Zip Line at Rainforest Adventures in Babonneau is for you! The idea of being hitched up to a series of cables and zipping between platforms at incredible heights in the tree canopy might sound intimidating but TT assures you that the concept is scarier than the activity itself. Safety is paramount and you will be provided with all the kit and instruction to ensure a super-high level of fun. Rainforest Adventures is the only company in Saint Lucia that hosts a zip-line tour within the island’s luxuriously green, tropical rainforest. The phenomenal sensations, sights and sounds make this adventure bucket-list worthy! Whizzing through lush greenery in the cool, fresh air, suspended way above rivers, small waterfalls and treetops, will have your body bursting with glee. And it’s OK to holler like Tarzan.
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Before you go
Full, fastened shoes are a must. There is some walking involved and you will be in a harness for the zip-lining so wear something comfortable; we recommend shorts/trousers (pants). Keep in mind that any fancy hairdo will be subject to a helmet. Take off anything that could fall to the forest floor, like jewellery or shades.
After you’ve zip-lined
The fun and excitement of the Adrena-line Zip Line are infectious! After two hours of flying through the trees, there will be a new level of friendship with your fellow adventurers. Compare notes about your experience while enjoying complementary juices, or laugh together at the pictures captured by the positioned photographer. Then go buy the T-shirt from the gift shop - you can wear it with pride!
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Other options If you prefer to observe the beauty of the forest at a slower pace then opt for the more sedate Rainforest Adventures aerial tram ride. Nature lovers can hike the Jacquot trail and learn about the flora, fauna, history and myths of the rainforest. Or join an early morning bird-watching tour with experienced guides who identify bird species and their special calls. Contact Rainforest Adventures St. Lucia, Babonneau Tel: 458 5151 www.rainforestadventure.com
ZIPLINE
AERIAL TRAM
moc.erutnevdatserofniar.www
ADRENALINE ZIP LINE | AERIAL TRAM | ULTIMATE THREE | BIRD WATCHING | JACQUOT TRAIL
REAL NATURE, REAL FUN for bookings call: (758) 458-5151
www.rainforestadventure.com 23
Tours ~ Experience It
Making Chocolate at
Cocoa Carib
You can buy chocolate the world over but here in Saint Lucia you can MAKE it! Roll up your sleeves, don the apron and prepare to have fun!
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The Experience t Howelton Estate Jason and his team run Cocoa Carib, an organic chocolate factory, and are passionate about the art of making chocolate. They explained the history of chocolate-making: where the cocoa beans came from, how they were used by the Amerindians to make a beverage, how the chocolate drink was introduced to Europe for royalty and the well-to-do, and how the process was refined, resulting in chocolate as we recognise and love it today. Then the moment we were waiting for: grinding cocoa nibs with confectionery sugar, cocoa butter and flavourings to produce our own bar. It was way more fun than expected, but involved more hard work than we had bargained for! Be prepared to pound that pestle into the mortar for over half an hour! Yes, such is the labour involved in producing one of the delights of life. But fear not if you suffer from fatigue Jason and his team will readily assist with their brawn to ensure that you end up with a smooth paste. And they even let you lick the bowls clean!! Nobody wants to waste any of this delicious treat made with your own (plus a little help from Indel et al) fair hands. We felt like kids again, and it was heavenly!
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Chocolate is good for you!
Chocolate contains flavanols that have antioxidant properties, improve blood flow to the heart and brain, and influence vascular health. Plus it tastes magnificent, making you feel great! According to the University of Leeds, the Saint Lucia Island Growers 100% chocolate bar has over 1,000mg of flavanols per 100g of chocolate - the highest ever recorded!
The Venue
Howelton Estate is worth visiting for the view alone: perched high above Castries one sees the coastline up to the north of Saint Lucia, and even Martinique in the distance. Then there is the beautifully preserved architecture of the house, constructed in 1896. We recommend sitting on the verandah, sipping a coffee from the bar and taking in your surroundings. Paradise!
This is also the home of Caribelle Batik
with gorgeous outfits and souvenirs available in the gift shop. Plus Howelton Estate encourages local artisans: see the extraction process for extra virgin olive oil; buy a unique and stylish bag from Christi Creations. And stock up on bars of chocolate made professionally on site - perfect presents for loved ones and folks back home - if you don’t succumb to temptation and eat it all!
Location and contact Howelton Estate, Old Victoria Road, Morne Fortune, Castries. Tel. 452 3785. Facebook.com/howelton Estate
HOME TO
Batik studio and duty free gift shop
Live demonstrations of vibrant art including hand-painted batik, artisanal chocolate making, and agro-processing of virgin coconut oil. Reserve your spot for the hand-crafted chocolate hosted by our local chocolatier
class
PLEASE BOOK DIRECTLY BY CALLING TEL: 452 3785 Book at your hotels tour desk or direct from our facebook page: www.facebook.com/HoweltonEstate/ Old Victoria Road, Morne Fortune Castries, Saint Lucia
Opening Hours: Mon to Sat: 9am to 3pm
Sun: closed
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Drinks
HAPPY HOUR GUIDE
Whether you are a visitor or a local, what better way to pass an hour or two than with a friend and a refreshing drink? And it's a bonus when you don't pay full price! Tropical Traveller has done the legwork in compiling this guide to some of the bars and restaurants in and around Rodney Bay that offer Happy Hour deals. So choose your spot, place your order and enjoy!
Rodney Bay Delerius 5-7 pm (closed Thursday) Discounts on house spirits, house wines by the glass, selected beers, selected cocktails. Spinnakers 5-6 pm seven days a week 2 for 1 on alcoholic cocktails, wines by the glass, house spirits; $1 off all beers (bottled and draft). Coconutz Daily specials as advertised (closed Monday) 5 pm-until, Tuesday 2 for 1 on mixed drinks. Jam Rock 4-6 pm Sunday-Thursday Daily specials. Keebees 4-7 pm (closed Monday) 2 for 1 on cocktails (including virgin); $1 off beers, wines and spirits. Carro's Kitchen 9-10 pm Saturday (Karaoke night) Discounts on rum punch, beers, wines by the glass; one special cocktail. Cockpit Bar 5-6 pm Friday and Saturday 2 for 1 on full bar list (includes beers, wines by the glass, liquors and liqueurs, tea, coffee, juices). Free bar snacks. Buzz 6.30-7.30 pm (closed Monday) 2 for 1 on house cocktails (excluding martinis and margaritas), house wines, beers, soft drinks. Razmataz 5-7 pm (closed Tuesday) 2 for 1 on cocktails, wines by the glass, spirits; $2 off beers. Special bar snacks served during Happy Hour.
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Rodney Bay Marina Matthews 12-6 pm Monday-Saturday 4-6 pm Sunday 2 for 1 on selected cocktails 4-6 pm Friday 2 for 1 on selected bottled beers and shandy. Tapas on the Bay 4-6 pm (closed Tuesday) 2 for 1 on beers, house spirits, house wines by the glass. Special snack menu served during Happy Hour. Bay Gardens Beach Resort Pebbles Beach Bar (at Hi Tide Restaurant) 5.30-6.30 pm (closed Wednesday) Discounts on cocktails (including virgin), beers and ciders, wines by the glass, house spirits. Sand Beach Bar 12-2 pm seven days a week Discounts on selected cocktails, selected house spirits, draft beers, house wines by the glass. Bay Gardens Hotel Cinnamon Bar 12-2 pm and 5-7 pm (closed Thursday evening) Discounts on cocktails, beers, wines by the glass, house spirits. Royal by Rex Resorts 5-6 pm Pool Bar 6-7 pm Mistral Bar 2 for 1 on cocktails.
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Boardwalk 5-6 pm seven days a week Discounts on cocktails, beers, spirits, wines by the glass. Bread Basket All day (closed Monday) Discounts on beers, rum punch, house wines, house spirits. Rituals Sushi 5-6.30 pm (closed Monday) Discounts on beers, rum punch, house wines by the glass. Bosuns 5-7 pm seven days a week 2 for 1 on house spirits; discounts on beers, house wines by the glass, cocktails. Zaika Bar Bay Q Poolside Bar 11 am-9 pm seven days a week Special deals on double purchases of beers, house wines by the glass, rum punch and house spirits.
Cap Estate SANDALS GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB 4-7 pm seven days a week 2 for 1 on most drinks.
TT staff have spent many happy hours researching this guide. The information is accurate for early 2018 although bars reserve the right to amend (and extend!) their Happy Hour deals. Wherever you go, you will be assured of a warm welcome, especially when you mention that you read this feature in TT.
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Rodney Bay Rodney Bay is the main tourist area with accommodation options, plenty of bars and restaurants, and a pulsating nightlife. The beautiful beach has chairs and parasols for rental, and watersports. Baywalk Mall and JQ Rodney Bay Mall offer shops, supermarkets, dining and Treasure Bay Casino. Vendors selling hand-crafted wares, fruits and local snacks can be found on the beach and at roadside stalls. IGY Rodney Bay Marina is the island’s main anchorage for sailors. The complex includes a boardwalk, bars, restaurants and shops. To the north is the town of Gros Islet, famous for its Friday night ‘jump-up’ street party. Pigeon Island, linked to the mainland by a man-made causeway, is accessible by road and water taxi. It has beaches, trails, stunning viewpoints, historical ruins, and a couple of bars/restaurants. Both the English and French stationed their military forces on the island - Saint Lucia changed hands between these countries’ rule 14 times. Pigeon Island is a 44-acre National Landmark administered by the Saint Lucia National Trust. There is an admission charge by day. An 18-hole golf course is located to the north, on Cap Estate.
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BEACHES 1. Smugglers Cove 2. Pigeon Island 3. Pigeon Point 4. Reduit Beach 5. Labrelotte Bay 6. Choc Bay 7. Vigie Beach 8. La Toc Bay 9. Marigot Bay 10. Anse Cochon 11. Anse Mamin 12. Anse Chastanet
SoufriÈre 13
Vieux Fort
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Sulphur Springs Park and Volcano LADERA RESORT
Petit Piton 14
Gros Piton 15
Laborie
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Area: 238 sq. miles Size: Approx. 27 miles long, 14 miles wide Castries co-ordinates: 14.01˚ north, 60.98˚ east Sunrise: 21 June 5.37 a.m., 21 Dec. 6.23 a.m. Sunset: 21 June 6.34 p.m., 21 Dec. 5.41 p.m. Castries maximum daytime temperature: 28˚C/82F winter, 31˚C/88F summer Castries minimum nighttime temperature: 22˚C/72F winter, 26˚C/79F summer Castries annual rainfall: 2035mm/80 inches main rainfall June - November Average sea temperature: 27˚C/81F winter, 29˚C/84F summer Highest Point: Mount Gimie (950m/3,117ft) Population: Approx. 185,000 Language: English, local French-based Creole dialect (Kwéyòl) Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (US$1 = EC$2.67
Choiseul
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13. Malgretoute 14. Anse des Pitons 15. Anse l’Ivrogne 16. Black Bay 17. Anse des Sables 18. Anse Louvet 19. Grand Anse 20. Anse Lavoutte 21. Cas en Bas 22. Secret Beach 23. Donkey Beach
Savannes Bay
Micoud
Maria Islands
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The cerulean blue background represents fidelity and reflects the colour of the sky and our surrounding waters. The gold is a sign of prosperity and a reminder of the sunshine. The black and white refer to the different races, unified. The three triangles in the centre symbolize the three pitons on the island. The isosceles triangle is similar to the shape of the famous twin Pitons at Soufrière; pointing skywards it stands for the hope and aspirations of the people.
Designed by Dunstan St. Omer. Adopted 1st March 1967.
Flag of Saint Lucia
Moule à Chique Lighthouse
Moule à Chique
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Town/Village Beach Historical Nature Airport Marina Ferry Terminal Shopping
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See detailed maps of Rodney Bay on page 27 and of Castries on page 30.
Pull-out Maps of Saint Lucia
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Saint Lucia 1
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Pigeon Island
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Fond d’Or Bay
Dennery
Frégate Islands Praslin Bay
rainforest adventures/sky rides
Chassin
Babonneau
Bay Gardens Resort & Splash Island
Gros Islet Rodney Bay
Choc Bay 7
Vigie Lighthouse
Rainforest
Morne Fortune La Place Carenage
George F.L. Charles AirportPointe Seraphine
Castries
Inside front cover, pg 3, back cover Pg 3 Pg 5
Pg 7 Pg 11
Pg 15
Pg 19
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ANSE LA RAYE Pg 39 & 41 Inside back cover
Canaries
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Mount Gimie Diamond Botanical Gardens and Waterfall
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CASTRIES 1
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Q R S T U V W X 1. Harry Edwards Jewelers 2. EFFY 3. Kenty’s 4. Tourist Information 5. Castries Cathedral
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(Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Conception)
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CAR & S.U.V. RENTAL
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10-15u%nt Disco
Opposite Carilec Bldg, Sans Souci, Castries, St. Lucia, W.I. Tel: 1 (758) 452-1330 dy/ng Mobile: 1 (758) 584-4502 • Fax: (758) 450-1632 P.O. Box CP 5694, Castries Email: 24hourscarrental@candw.lc www.bestratescarrental.com www.24hourscarrental.com
Reliability
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Shopping
We are committed to providing efficient, excellent services of high integrity, along with client/ customer satisfaction while visiting St. Lucia
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Castries is the capital of Saint Lucia. This compact city offers duty free shopping opportunities at La Place Carenage and Pointe Seraphine, either side of the harbour. The walk between the two takes approximately 20 minutes, or you can take the ferry service. Near the waterfront are the two markets and in the city centre is Blue Coral Mall. The city’s oasis is Derek Walcott Square, named after the poet/playwright, one of two Saint Lucian Nobel laureates, the other being the economist Sir Arthur Lewis. Note the colonial-style architecture of the library. The cathedral features interesting stained glass. Serendipity Park near Pointe Seraphine is also a haven. The local airport serving smaller craft is at Vigie, just north of Castries and opposite a beach. Nearby are historical military ruins and a lighthouse. La Toc Battery, an old fort, is on the other side of town, on Morne Fortune. There is a museum at Government House, a beautiful Victorian edifice overlooking Castries. It is the residence of the Governor General, the representative of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II who remains head of state. Saint Lucia gained independence on 22nd February, 1979 and is part of the British Commonwealth.
Village Architecture
How about this for a brightly painted home! The colourful stones on houses are usually associated with "gahjay" (witchcraft) by locals.
Gros Islet Gros Islet town is in the north of Saint Lucia. Originally a fishing community with one of the island’s most vibrant fish markets, it became famous for its Friday Night Street Party. Here’s what TT likes about Gros Islet.
Party District The Gros Islet Friday Night street party has been in operation for years. Popular with tourists and locals, this is the place to eat, drink and dance the night away. Be warned: the speakers are large and powerful and the music is loud! Along the length of Marie Therese Street, vendors set up stalls where you can taste the rich flavours of locally prepared cuisine: seafood, chicken, ribs, rice, fries and bakes.
Church
In Gros Islet town and its outskirts, there is a church for almost every Christian denomination but it’s the St. Joseph the Worker Roman Catholic church that dominates. Attend a service or visit to admire the architecture.
Hot Bread
Fresh Fish
You can always find bread in Gros Islet! The town has five bakeries. Some are open until the late hours of the night and they all supply fresh creole bread with a myriad of delicious cakes and pastries.
Greet the fishermen as they return to shore with their catch and buy fish that until a few hours before, was still swimming in the sea.
Beaches
The beach serves the residents for both leisure and livelihood. The one in Gros Islet town is small but the beach at Pigeon Point, going up to The Landings, is extensive and ideal for walking, swimming, watersports, barbeques and volleyball.
Playground
At one end of Gros Islet beach is a public playground. The grassy space hosts slides, swings, roundabouts and playhouses where children and adults can have fun.
Fresh Market Produce
From Monday to Saturday, farmers from the Gros Islet district sell fresh, locally produced foods on the compound of the Gros Islet Municipal Centre. On a smaller more homely scale than the Castries Market, you’ll find a variety of vegetables, fruits, condiments and some craftwork.
Restaurants
Saint Lucians are generally foodies and there is no shortage of bars and restaurants in Gros Islet selling local favourites (see our feature on street food on page 34). Two venues that we recommend are Duke’s on the waterfront, specializing in grilled fish and garlic sauce, and Flavours of the Grill on Marie Therese Street serving freshly cooked and hearty meals.
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Shopping
What to take home... You have soaked up the atmosphere and want to take home a flavour of Saint Lucia that will remind you of all the good times. Here are TT’s suggestions.
RUM
We make EXTREMELY good rum in Saint Lucia, much of it award-winning. Choose from white, dark or spiced rum. From Bounty, the ‘rum de table’, through to Chairman’s Reserve, the superior Admiral Rodney and the smooth 1931, there will be a taste (and price) to suit you.
Pottery
Available in supermarkets, liquor stores and at the St. Lucia Distillers rum factory.
Michelle Elliot makes wonderful, brightly coloured pottery. From tableware through to vases and even wash basins, there will be a piece that you find irresistible. And how about this for a viewing opportunity: enjoy lunch at the amazing Pink Plantation House where the artist’s studio is based.
Batik
Email: wildorchidstlucia@hotmail.com Pink Plantation House, tel. 452 5422
Although originally an Asian art, Batik is hand-made here in Saint Lucia by Caribelle Batik. With dresses, shirts and bags, there’s something eye-catching all the family.
Available from Caribelle Batik, Howelton Estate (see ad on page 25).
HOT PEPPER SAUCE
The chocolate made in Saint Lucia is among the best in the world, and we’re not saying that because we live here! There is something wonderful about the cocoa pods growing here that produces magnificent chocolate. Taste it and see!
West Indians love their hot pepper sauce! For some visitors, even the mildest sauce is too much but, if you like your food with punch, then this is the condiment. It’s all down to the locally grown Scotch Bonnet peppers. Try the ranges from Baron Foods (baronfoodsltd. com) and Viking Foods (viking.stlucia.com).
Available at Howelton Estate (see our feature on page 24), Sea Island Cotton Shop and Hotel Chocolat.
Available in supermarkets and gift shops.
CHOCOLATE
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COCOA STICK
Cocoa is the traditional morning drink in Saint Lucia. No tins allowed! We make ours by grating a stick of Lucian cocoa. Start the day Caribbean style!
Available in supermarkets, Hotel Chocolat and at Sea Island Cotton Shop.
THEBIGGEST SOUVENIRSHOP
BAYWALK SHOPPING MALL
RODNEY BAY ST LUCIA
SOUVENIRS
INST.LUCIA
|
EDIBLES
|
T SHIRTS
|
RESORT WEAR
OPENING HOURS:
Monday - Saturday 9am - 8pm | Sunday & Holidays 9am - 2pm Tel: 458-4220 | www.seaislandstlucia.com Remember to walk with your travel itinerary and photo ID for DUTY FREE shopping
33
Local Style
STREET FOOD One of the most rewarding aspects of travelling is to sample the local food. Lucians LOVE their food so let TT fill you in on what satisfies our bellies.
Fish
Even in these beautiful Caribbean waters, our fishermen now have to sail further out from the shores than before to net a good catch. This makes fish a slightly more expensive option but we all appreciate the taste and variety. Local fish include dorado (also known as mahi-mahi or dolphin), marlin and tuna. Fun ways to eat fish in a local setting are at the Friday Night Gros Islet Street Party, the Anse La Raye Fish Fry and the Saturday night Dennery Fish Fiesta.
Bouillon
Chicken
Some sources have referred to Saint Lucians as consuming the most amount of chicken per capita in the world. Nobody here would disagree! Our chicken is heavily seasoned which makes it extra delicious. Chicken legs and wings are popular but there is no part of a chicken that some Lucians won’t eat - one ‘delicacy’ here is chicken necks! And how about chicken feet? And chicken backs (backbone)?
Bakes The name is misleading but bakes are utterly delicious. They are rounds of dough that are fried or roasted and served hot, preferably with a knob of butter and a sprinkling of parsley.
Green Fig Salad In the Caribbean, a fig is unripe banana. It has to be cooked first but is great when left to cool and used in a salad - like a potato salad.
Fun ways to eat fish in a local setting are at the Friday Night Gros Islet Street Party, the Anse La Raye Fish Fry and the Saturday night Dennery Fish Fiesta 34
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Saltfish Saltfish is often served in a bake or boiled green fig. It is fish that has been dried and salted - a method used for centuries to preserve fish so that it can be kept for longer, especially in our temperatures - and is then rehydrated and cooked. When we prepare saltfish we add peppers to give it a bit of kick.
You will recognise this as the French word for broth, a dish made around the world. Here in Saint Lucia the bouillon is thick and filling due to lots of mini dumplings and a heavy does of lentils or red beans. The local favourite is pigtail bouillon.
Pork
When a Lucian fancies a change from chicken, he opts for pork. On festive occasions, some families will roast an entire pig; the cooking process involves onlookers (usually with beer in hand) commenting on the pig, the fire, politics, life . . . It’s what we do here.
ACCRAS
These tasty morsels are fish cakes made from the saltfish. Battered rather than breaded, they are bite-sized bits of pleasure.
Roti
Originally from Trinidad, this ‘wrap’ has become popular all over the Caribbean. It’s like a mild curry in a rolled up flat, baked dough. Popular fillings are chicken, fish, pork, beef and vegetarian.
STREET VENDORS AND CARTS
When out and about you won’t need to go far before you come across a street vendor. In fact, some may approach you on the beach with their treats cooked that day. In the Rodney Bay area there is a roadside site, near the marina, opposite Harbor Club, where static stalls are open every evening offering a great choice of local foods, all very reasonably priced. Go down, eat your heart out and have a great local-style night out!
Fine Dining at the Royal A restaurant like no other in the Caribbean. Cool, sophisticated with an accent on art, music and wonderful food complimented with unobstrusive service. A truly unique dining experience. Be “Chic” by the Royal Open from Monday to Saturday. Also available for Private Dinners & Receptions. Reservations Recommended. Royal by Rex Resorts, Reduit Beach, Gros Islet, St Lucia, WI
T:1 758 457 3131
E. royal@candw.lc W:http://www.rexresorts.com
be a part of our paradise...
Enjoy our Breakfast, Beach Lunches and Themed Dinners at the Royal Steak House & Seafood Dinner Menu Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat Italian Influences Dinner Menu Tue, Thu & Sun
Seaside Beach Creole Barbeque Every Saturday on the Beach with live Entertainment OPEN DAILY Breakfast - 7:00 am - 10:30 am Lunch - 12:00 pm - 5:30 pm Dinner - 6:00 pm - 10:30 pm
Private Dinners & Receptions
Royal by Rex Resorts, Reduit Beach, Gros Islet, St Lucia, WI
T:1 758 457-3131
E. royal@candw.lc W:http://www.rexresorts.com
be a part of our paradise...
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Restaurant Recommendations
BRUNCH LUNCH
JAM ROCK Reggae Cafe and Grill
Often the gems of life are tucked away. TT has done the searching and can direct you to a jewel of a bar and restaurant: Jam Rock Reggae Cafe and Grill in Rodney Bay.
Something for everyone
Sandals Golf and Country Club It's always great to admire the view while you eat. At the Sandals Golf and Country Club not only is the golf course easy on the eye but it is dotted with palm trees and water features, all amidst the gentle hills of Cap Estate.
B
reakfast is served daily from 9 am in the clubhouse and lunch is served from 11.30 am to 3 pm. Membership is not necessary. In addition to the a la carte lunch menu, there are two- and threecourse specials which change weekly. Vegetarian options are available. The Sunday brunch is great value and includes a complimentary glass of Prosecco. It could be your treat after a round of golf or your indulgence at the weekend. Either way, it's a delightful way to spend a few hours in convivial surroundings.
Y
ou’ll find Jam Rock on ‘Beer Drinkers’ Drive’ - the back road by Big Chef, just a minute’s walk from the main road. It’s well worth the diversion to this Jamaican-themed restaurant for the eye-catching decor, the friendly service and the food: quality international with snippets of West Indian favourites. Beer drinkers will be happy: there are six brews on tap. Families will be delighted: children are welcome.
In Addition
Do you fancy combining two of life's pleasures? How about 'Swing and Sip'? - an hour's golf class followed by a drink; separate classes for ladies and men. For children there is a golf clinic (without the alcohol!) Besides the opportunity to play golf, on Wednesday the Sandals Golf and Country Club presents Games Night with bridge, backgammon and other board/card games. Whether you attend as a group, couple or single, the staff will ensure a warm welcome. Late afternoon at the Club sees a Happy Hour that lasts from 4 pm until 7 pm with 2 for 1 deals on most drinks. Extend your Friday fun with the once-a-week BBQ dinner from 7 pm to 9 pm (reduced prices for members).
Contact For more information on dining options and on golf, contact: info@stluciagolf.com Tel. 450 9324 See advertisement on page 13
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Loiter at the bar and watch live sports on one of the eight large screens. Sit outside on the spacious verandah and enjoy the breeze and serenity. Hold an event or private party in the outdoor courtyard, beautifully lit at night. Drop in for happy hour (4-6 pm Sunday to Thursday) and stay to enjoy the theme night specials. Play bingo! Feel the beat of the soft rock and reggae, and the weekly live music. Whatever your food preference, Jam Rock can please you. The burgers are SERIOUSLY good. Taste the Caribbean - order conch fritters, accras (fish cakes), bakes and saltfish (a Lucian classic), clam chowder, jerk chicken, bussup (‘It’s a Trini ting!’) And TT hasn’t found anywhere else in Saint Lucia that offers poutine (ask a Canadian). Enjoy a succulent steak, fresh fish, pizza, pasta. Then spoil yourself with desserts that include a local confectionery plate - a wonderful sweet selection as appreciated by generations of West Indians. Daily food specials are just that: you could be lucky and find that on your visit the chef can prepare grilled lobster or fillet mignon. And the prices are less than you would expect!
Leave your mark
Kids, the extrovert and those with a sense of humour will love that at Jam Rock you are invited to scribble your name or a message on the wall. “TT was here. And we loved Jam Rock!” Contact Tel. 452 9365 / 729 JAMS Email:jamrockcafeslu@gmail.com facebook.com/Jamrockreggaecafe See advertisement on page 49.
DINNER
RAZMATAZ
Given the popularity of Indian restaurants, you sometimes have to go far to find an exceptional one. Well, you’re in luck in Saint Lucia! The long haul here is worth it for the warm welcome (back) to Razmataz.
R
The Restaurant azmataz - even the name evokes colour and fun! The restaurant has been going strong since 1994, at the same venue along the Rodney Bay strip, and with the same chef. The patrons are a mix of regulars who drop by weekly, and tourists there for the first (second, third . . . ) time, all in agreement that the food and atmosphere are a joy to the senses. This is a place where the decor, furnishings, background music and aromas transport your mind to the East and prepare you for authentic East Indian and Nepalese cuisine.
The Cuisine The kitchen houses a genuine Tandoori charcoal oven that is fired up 24 hours a day. Every dish is cooked individually using a combination of fresh, local vegetables, herbs, fish and seafood plus special imported spices and quality meat. The menu is traditional and authentic East Indian and Nepalese dishes. Choose from an extensive array of small dishes for appetizers and then indulge in a Balti or Chef’s special, Tandoori delight or Nepalese sizzler. There is an excellent choice for vegetarians. First-timers should note that Razmataz is renowned for its generous food portions.
The Chef The authenticity of the menu is guaranteed because the chef, Dipendra Bahadur K.C. hails from Nepal. Cooking his native dishes is his passion! He takes immense pride in the intense preparation of ingredients, and cooking in his Tandoori oven, to ensure that when you eat his creations, you experience all the flavours of his home region.
Making it even better
Whether straight from an afternoon on the beach or as a start to your evening, you should visit Razmataz for happy hour, from 5 til 7 pm and enjoy some tasty bar snacks with your drinks. Takeaway is available, at 10% off the in-dining menu prices. Children are welcome and, instead of ordering from the menu, can munch on freshlymade chicken nuggets. Razmataz Rodney Bay Strip Tel. 452 9800 (Reservations recommended) razmataz@candw.lc www.razmatazrestaurant.com Open from 4 pm, food served from 5 pm. Closed Tuesday. See advertisement on page 35.
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Entertainment
Profile
BARBARA CADET
When Barbara Cadet entertains local fans and visitors with her music, she usually plays the saxophone. But this remarkable lady does way more than that: she’s a songwriter, composer, arranger, classically trained vocalist and keyboard player. With a wonderful personality, to boot!
A Mancunian -Caribbean with Talent Barbara Cadet is following a family tradition by being an ambassador for Saint Lucia through her music. She has performed at regional jazz festivals as well as at the launch of the Saint Lucia Jazz Festival promotions in the United Kingdom, Bahamas and United States. While Barbara’s family hails from this island, she was born in Manchester, UK. This qualified her to audition for ‘Britain’s Got Talent’ and, out of some 70,000 wannabes, she proved her capability by appearing on television in the final 200. And tells TT that she and Simon Cowell had a great chat about Saint Lucia - an island he knows well!
The Reluctant Teacher Barbara has a touch of Essex girl in her - she was classically trained in voice, saxophone and clarinet at Colchester Institute. A career in teaching was the natural progression but this did not appeal so she took a year off and returned to her island home. While here, the Saint Lucia School of Music (SLSM) opened. Needing a job, she applied for a teaching post and was astounded to discover that she loved the work!
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Action Girl
A believer in promoting opportunities for children, Barbara worked at the SLSM for seven years. Equally passionate about opportunities for women, she co-founded Allegro Pan Groove, an all-female steel pan band of 40 that shook up the maledominated field. On the vocal side, she founded Sisterhood, a group of nine ladies who have wowed audiences with their amazing voices.Barbara writes music for theatre and has been commissioned to compose pieces to celebrate this country’s significant anniversaries of independence. She has documented, for the Saint Lucia National Archives, the music of four musicals written by Lucian-born Roderick Walcott. For her services to the nation, she was awarded the Saint Lucia Medal of Merit (Gold) in 2004. Barbara’s fans are grateful that, in spite of her busy life, she has made time to record three albums.
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Fit for Kings
In 2012 Barbara performed at Buckingham Palace as part of the celebrations for Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee. It seems that her talents are appreciated in royal circles: she took ten members of a steel band, complete with steel pans, with her to Rabat when invited to play at a birthday party for the Prince of Morocco. As for the ‘royalty’ of the jazz world, she has been the opening act for celebrities including Anita Baker, John Legend, Patti Labelle, Tanya Maria and Spyro Gyra.
See Barbara Cadet Perform Coconut Bay - Monday evenings Jade Mountain - Thursday evenings The Landings - alternate Friday evenings Sandals Halcyon - alternate Friday evenings If you are not able to catch a live performance, check Barbara’s website: barbaracadet.com to sample her music and buy her albums.
The best beach bar and restaurant in St. Lucia by day and also the best on the beach for dinner!
Open everyday FOr BreakFast, Lunch & dinner.
happy hOur 5-6 daiLy
Available every evening our fabulous menu features such delicacies as Coconut Battered Shrimp, Fresh Lobster Thermidore, USDA Steaks, the freshest fish available prepared in at least a dozen different ways, Bouillabaisse or Seafood Platter.
Come and dine in our thatched deck just inches from the water’s edge. Listen to the music of the waves and relax with good food, good service and great prices!
RESERVATIONS - TEL: 452-8491
RODNEY BAY
TRADITIONAL
MEXICAN FOOD & DRINK
TUESDAY TO SUNDAY 5PM UNTIL
Recommended
TEL: (758) 723-0751
coconutzslu
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Entertainment
MUSIC SCENE
SAXOPHONE PLAYERS
Tapas On The Bay in Rodney Bay is a venue that promotes music, with a particular interest in saxophone players. It’s a great spot to be on a Friday evening to enjoy live entertainment with a drink and a meal. Here are some of the artists you can expect to see.
Isman Lovence
Isman has a head for figures (he has a degree in economics and accounts) and a soul that is expressed through his love of the saxophone. He studied at the Saint Lucia School of Music and has been part of several bands, pleasing locals and visitors. "I've had the privilege of doing a series of performances at Tapas On The Bay. Being able to entertain so many different faces has been an exciting experience; it has forced me to be diverse, given the different age groups coming in, and has helped me be a better entertainer."
Rob Zii Taylor
Every Friday night from 7pm is a live music experience at Tapas On The Bay. TT recommends it as a perfect way to round off the week with great food and superb music. Tapas On The Bay Tel. 485 7189 Email: bigchefsteakhouse@gmail.com
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‘Deesax’ plays saxaphone, flute and bassoon. His style engages you so much that you would not guess that he has distinguished himself in another arena: he’s attained the rank of inspector in the Royal Saint Lucia Police Force! In his musical career he has played at various hotels, for the RSLPF’s superb band and, naturally, has shared stages with Barbara Cadet. Let’s just say that his music is arresting!
Rob was a student of Barbara Cadet (see page 38) and, like her, is now a versatile alto, soprano and tenor saxophonist. He performs at Tapas On The Bay on alternate Fridays, accompanied by songstress Phyness. With music genres spanning Jazz, Soul, Reggae and Blues, they have developed an enthusiastic following. TT recommends that you listen to their music to find out why this couple is so popular.
Rashaad Joseph
Rashaad is still a teenager, not that you would guess from his mature style of playing the saxophone. His music focuses on genres such as Jazz, R&B, Hip hop and Soul Music. “My favourite part about performing at Tapas is playing my unreleased music for the new faces that I get to see, and seeing how positively the people react. It's always fun, easy-going and filled with energy and a love for live music.”
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Deland ‘DeeSax’ St Jules
HANDS ON SAILING
ST LUCIA’S ONLY RACE YACHT EXPERIENCE FULL & HALF DAY ADVENTURES LEARN TO SAIL CORPORATE TEAM BUILDING
First4sail.com |1 (758) 717 1628 |1 (758) 518 1187
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Wellness
YOGA IN PARADISE
Yoga holidays and wellness retreats are quickly becoming the next big thing in tourism. Vacations are not just for fun and relaxation but also an opportunity to focus on health and fitness. Many travellers love the idea of incorporating yoga into their trip; it’s easy to practise while away from home because it requires little equipment. This is why many resorts have a dedicated yoga space and offer regular yoga classes.
Y
oga holidays and wellness retreats are quickly becoming the next big thing in tourism. Vacations are not just for fun and relaxation but also an opportunity to focus on health and fitness. Many travellers love the idea of incorporating yoga into their trip; it’s easy to practise while away from home because it requires little equipment. This is why many resorts have a dedicated yoga space and offer regular yoga classes. Many people believe that yoga is something that super flexible people do, twisting and contorting their body into impossible shapes and positions. Others think that yoga is for stressed-out people who need to relax. While it is true that many people who practise yoga do so to relieve stress and to stay in shape, there are many other benefits that can be gained. Among other things, yoga can help build strength and confidence, improve flexibility and balance as well as foster peace and contentment. When you practise yoga, you connect the mind and body to help you relax and feel rejuvenated. A typical vinyasa yoga class begins with Surya Namaskar, otherwise known as Sun Salutions. The movement then proceeds through a series of strengthening, lengthening and hip-opening poses, back bends and forward folds, before ending in Savasana, or Corpse Pose: final resting pose. The difficulty or complexity of the poses depends on the level of strength and flexibility of each individual student. By focusing on breath and movement your mind becomes focused and everything else melts away. While this can be done anywhere, it is easier to practise yoga in a peaceful and calming atmosphere. It’s even more enjoyable when you pursue yoga in natural surroundings such as the beach or forest. Nature is peaceful, soothing and stunningly beautiful; practising yoga in a natural atmosphere, free of distraction, often deepens the sense of peace and relaxation that you feel. Saint Lucia is known for her natural beauty. Beaches, forest trails and waterfalls are all perfect settings for yoga. There’s something magical about practising yoga while the smell of salt tickles your nose and the waves gently play background music, or birds sing in tune while tree branches sway in the gentle breeze. It can inspire you to make time for yoga, deepen
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your practice or even try yoga for the first time. Many resorts help you connect to nature by placing their yoga studios outdoors or in close proximity to nature. Some resorts have a dedicated yoga deck as part of their fitness facilities so that you can go easily from your cardio workout to your yoga session. After sweating it out on a treadmill or bike you can step outside and enjoy some soothing yoga in a natural environment. Other resorts use nature as an inspiration with one or more glass walls while you practise in airconditioned comfort. Some resorts go even further by creating dedicated yoga structures in exotic locations like the over water yoga deck at Ti Kaye Resort and Spa. Exotic yoga settings create a sense of wonder and joy before you even step on your mat. They have a wow factor! Ti Kaye Resort and Spa, known for its rustic elegance, tapped into that when building the over the water deck. The resort then jumped into the yoga holiday business with both feet by offering yoga retreat packages. Like a lotus flower, the yoga deck sits above the crystal blue waters of Anse Cochon Bay. It is nestled between the restaurant and dock and can be accessed by a secret trail. As you practise yoga on the deck in the morning you are greeted with gentle ocean sounds beneath your feet, and uninterrupted views of the sea. In the evenings the yoga deck provides a front seat to some of the most stunning sunsets on earth. Savasana becomes deeply soothing, especially if you use the bolsters, blocks and other props provided. It’s as if the ocean becomes your private lullaby to soothe away your stressIf floating above the ocean is not quite your thing, then you can still enjoy ocean views in the Ti Kaye Resort and Spa meditation room. Enjoy the air-conditioned temperatures while marveling at the panoramic view of nature through the extensive windows; or step outside onto the deck to be closer to nature.Ti Kaye Resort and Spa has something for every yogi. You can practise alone in your room, enjoy the peace of the meditation room, request a private one-on-one session or join one of the regular classes. You can make your holiday all about yoga by joining one of the yoga retreats or even create your own retreat for you and your friends. Whether you’re a beginner or long-time yogi, let Saint Lucia inspire your practice! Ti Kaye Resort & Spa Tel. 456 8101 www.tikaye.com
All photos by Dani Devaux, www.danidevaux.com
By Monetta Wilson
Yoga celeb Kino MacGregor visiting Ti Kaye Resort & Spa @kinoyoga
Kai Manje Restaurant, award-winning cuisine amidst natural beauty, recipient of the prestigious Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence for the last three consecutive years awaits you
Kai Koko Spa, built at the cliff’s edge with dramatic views of the silver sands of Anse Cochon and the azure Caribbean sea
Ti Kaye overlooks the serene waters and sand of the secluded Anse Cochon beach
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Resort Spotlight
Harbor Club
The Harbor Club opened at the end of 2017 and it was worth the wait! The view of the resort from the road is impressive enough, with the tall, curved glass frontage, but wait until you see the other side, by the marina. This is Miami chic and it’s gorgeous!
Dine and sip
Cabins Harbor Club is located just north of Rodney Bay village, next to IGY Rodney Bay marina. It offers 115 rooms - referred to as ‘cabins’ to promote their nautical style (some are swim-up!) - and suites. Each is comfortable and stylish, modern and sleek, with luxurious amenities and a marina or hillside view.
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Making the body feel good There are four full-size swimming pools, all with the glorious vista of the marina. Treat yourself to a private cabana in the VIP area.
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
The Gym at Harbor Club is spacious and well-equipped with a dedicated area for yoga and group classes. The Spa is an oasis of calm and serenity. Expertly-trained staff deliver bespoke treatments to relax the body, rejuvenate the mind and soothe the soul.
Dine casually or in upmarket style. Julia’s offers indoor air-conditioned comfort or outdoor seating overlooking the pool and marina. You can tuck into Italian cuisine at Dockside Pizzeria or Japanese fare at Crew Lounge on Sushi Deck. Positano Santa Lucia on the top floor is the place for fine dining while 7th Heaven, the Swissinspired bakery will have you lusting after pastries, bread, chocolates and ice cream. There is no shortage of beautiful spots to drink: Harbor Bar, Pool Bar, Market Street Bar and The Sky Lounge.
Weddings and Conferences
With the most advanced technology, an Events Management Team, private rooms and custom catering, Harbor Club is now the place to be for corporate functions, social events, conferences and weddings.
Whimsy
TT loves Little Ben Clock Tower! What a delightful spot from where to catch the ferry service to Rodney Bay. Harbor Club Tel. 731 2900 www.theharborclub.com
begins at
Pigeon Island
National Landmark
MEALS SERVED
Dinner MENU FOCUS
Modern, high-end sushi, sashimi and bento WHAT MAKES IT GREAT Combines cool and clever design, exquisite food and amazing attention to detail to seamlessly deliver a great experience.
Like us on FACEBOOK
Contact us today: weddings@slunatrust.org (758) 452-5005 / 453-1495 www.slunatrust.org
1.758.731.2900
|
www.theharborclub.com
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Real Estate
A BUYER’S MARKET If you are looking to purchase property in Saint Lucia, now is the time. That’s the message from the island’s realtors who say it’s a buyer’s market, predicting slow but steady growth.
THE BREEZE Cap Estate. Land size: 19,185 sq ft, house size: 3,500 sq ft, bedrooms: 4, bathrooms: 2.5, price: US$ 595,000. Contact info@bluereefrealestate.com
T
he Caribbean real estate industry took a significant hit as a result of the recession. Now, however, Saint Lucia’s property portfolio is seeing movement, especially in its mid-level inventory, leading many realtors to express optimism about the market’s future. “It is a good time to take advantage of all-time low prices - sometimes 15 to 25 per cent off the listing price. We only see growth from here,” says Donnelly John, Sales and Marketing Co-Director at Blue Reef Real Estate.
The tourist trade Saint Lucia is the second fastest growing tourism destination in the region, according to the Caribbean Tourism Organization. Given that many buyers start out as visitors, a booming tourism industry is good news for realtors. David Farrin, Managing Director at Doubloon Real Estate, says the growth in visitor numbers is encouraging: “This is the best it has been in seven years. We’re seeing growth around the US $500,000 market; it is quite active at that price range.”
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Why buy? Most property-hunters are looking for a place to use as a second home or to rent out, even if it’s just for parts of the year when they are not onisland. Saint Lucia caters for both. John explains that the island stays ahead of its Caribbean competitors by capitalising on its environmental assets. “Saint Lucia is known for its natural beauty, its landscape. The views from most of the properties here are outstanding and there’s lots to do in terms of nature and eco-tourism.”
Legalities
Foreign investors must obtain an Alien’s Landholding License which means that it usually takes at least six months to complete. Some foreign buyers want to be more than just seasonal visitors. Under Saint Lucia’s Citizenship by Investment Programme, foreign investors can obtain a Saint Lucian passport through a number of means including a minimum US $100,000 donation to the National Economic Fund or a US $300,000 investment in a real estate project. This is a major sweetener for some buyers, according to John who says: “Saint Lucia has attractive residency and citizenship programmes and that creates interest.”
Most propertyhunters are looking for a place to use as a second home or to rent out, even if it’s just for parts of the year when they are not on-island. Saint Lucia caters for both
Growth ahead?
Saint Lucia saw an upswing in tourism and construction activity in 2017. “There is a lot of investor interest for projects that have been on pause or for new projects [and] there is land being sold to developers or people who plan to develop,” says John. “That is always going to generate new interest in real estate.” The veteran realtor also wants to see more developers plugging the gap in the higher end of the market - providing inventory for high net worth buyers who are seeking passports along with their properties. In the meantime, the middle market is where most are focusing their efforts. “I’m not so sure that anything dramatic is going to happen over the next few years [but] there is every reason to think the US$500,000 market will continue to grow,” says Farrin.
CHARMING COTTAGE
CARIBBEAN
FOR SALE
brown-co.com
Comfort, Beauty, Serenity in the South
• Pretty land of 51,400 Sq. Ft. (1.18 Acres) • Spectacular views of Caribbean sea • Vast potential for expansion
St Lucia
US$ 750,000
5 bedroom villa with pool and beach front access set in 5 acres Excellent rental history of up to US$ 55,000/annum. To be sold as a going concern. Best guest reviews of any villa on the island. Superb staff. Only villa on a 500-acre estate. Conveniently located halfway between Castries and the Pitons (Soufriere). Additional 10 acres available.
Visit brigandhill.com or brown-co.com for further details, or call T. +1758 451 6151 | E. asnia@brown-co.com Residential | Commercial | Agricultural
Price: EC$ 635,000
For more info call 758-458-0684 or email: barattray@gmail.com
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History
EARLIEST
INHABITANTS
Who wouldn’t want to live in Saint Lucia? Many people who were not born here dream of living in this island paradise, and many have made that dream into a reality, but imagine how different life would have been centuries ago: no electricity, no roads and vehicular transport, no supermarkets and imported produce, no outside interference . . . Actually, it sounds good on one level - nature controlling life! TT wonders what the early inhabitants of this island felt about life here.
Ciboney It is not known for sure who first inhabited this place we now call Saint Lucia, and when. Some researchers have suggested that the Ciboney (or Siboney) people were here between 1000 and 500 BC. The name Ciboney derives from the Arawak term for a cave dweller. The origins of the Ciboney are unknown but they did inhabit many islands in the region. They were hunters and gatherers and their diet was mainly shellfish plus rodent and turtle. So, it is possible that they came to this relatively small island and survived here.
Arawaks We do know that Arawak Indians were in Saint Lucia from around 200 AD. They probably came from northern South America where Arawak communities still exist, most of them
in Guyana with small groups in Suriname, French Guiana and Venezuela. The Arawaks who lived on this island would have been typical of those in the region: skilled in agriculture, pottery and weaving. They were expert boatbuilders and seafarers. It seems that they called the island Iouanalao which meant ‘land of the iguanas’. They were not hostile, unlike the people who ousted them.
Caribs
The island Caribs, also known as the Kalinago, may have descended from the mainland Caribs of South America. They were warrior-like and became the dominant group in the Caribbean - which owes its name to them - by invading islands and taking control. They came to Saint Lucia around 800 AD. Writings of the Spanish conquistadores record the Caribs as eating roasted human flesh! Archaeological evidence suggests that this was done only on ceremonial occasions. The Caribs called the island Hewanarau, which again means ‘land of the iguanas’. The word evolved into Hewanorra which is the name used for the international airport at Vieux Fort in the south of the island.
Writings of the Spanish conquistadores record the Caribs as eating roasted human flesh! 48
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Leaving their mark
The early settlers carved petroglyphs: patterns and designs into rocks. Several examples have been found in Saint Lucia but most of them are on property that is now privately owned. Numerous fragments of pottery have also been discovered. The archeological evidence shows that Arawaks and Caribs - Amerindians lived in Dennery, Micoud, Vieux Fort, Laborie and Choiseul.
If you are interested in making Saint Lucia your (second /third) home,
with all of its beauty and present day amenities and luxuries, then read our article on page 46 about real estate on the island.
(6) draft and craft IPA beers on tap.
Happy Hour Weekdays SUN- THURS 4pm - 6pm
Buffet Lunch Specials Daily 12:noon - 4 pm
Includes 3 sides and 1 Entrée - from $25
LIVE SPORTS on 8 Big Screens. Catering services also available.
T: 1.758.452.9365 / 1.758.729.JAMS E: jamrockcafeslu@gmail.com FB: facebook.com/Jamrockreggaecafe
Tranquility Getaway
La Grace De Dieu
come as guests
BURGER OF THE WEEK
leave as family
FRESHLY CAUGHT SEAFOOD
Weekly
BOOK YOUR VACATION WITH TRANQUILITY GETAWAY.
We are located in one of the oldest communities in St. Lucia overlooking the beautiful Cul De Sac valley. Rest, relax and enjoy our hospitality. Pack light. We have everything you need for an enjoyable stay.
HOMEMADE DESSERTS
PIE OF THE WEEK
Cocktail Specials
WEEKLY SPECIALS Visit Delirius in Rodney Bay (opposite Scotiabank) and take advantage of our menu options:
Belmar / Frank Johnson Lanes | Morne Fortune Castries | St. Lucia | W.I Tel: 1(758) 458 2995 | Mobile: 1 (758) 716 4278 | 1 868 682 0983 Email: tranquilitygetaway758@gmail.com Website: www.tranquilitygetaway.com
At the bar - cocktail of the week, featured red and white wines, light bites and snacks In the restaurant - new items every week: burgers; steaks; freshly caught sh; homemade pies; veggie options
Call For Reservations
+1-758-451-DELI (3354)
SATURDAYS 49
Culture
Dominoes
Just like cricket, the ‘sport’ of dominoes has captivated the hearts of Lucians. What? You don’t class dominoes as a sport? Well it may not be in other parts of the world, but here in Saint Lucia, dominoes is played with energy, a competitive spirit and strict adherence to the rules. It can be a simple way of passing the time, or a cutthroat and strategic joust.
How to play Dominoes is played by four people. Each player is dealt seven dominoes from a ‘double six’ domino set. Where the game is played with partners, the person seated across from you is your partner. The object of the game is to get rid of all your dominoes before your opponents. The person who has the double six domino tile starts the game by ‘placing’ it in the middle of the table. Play continues counterclockwise. The touching ends of dominoes must match, and double tiles are usually played at a right angle. When a player is unable to make a move, he must skip a turn. In Saint Lucia this is known as ‘knocking’.
Playing Caribbean-style In the Caribbean you don’t gently lay your tile on the table, you slam it down, with gusto, striking your palm on the table top to create noise. And especially in bars, the players (and any spectators) keep themselves refreshed with bottles of beer. In the islands, dominoes is a boisterous game, not a sedate one!
Who plays the game Although men are often seen playing dominoes – it’s popular with bus and taxi drivers waiting for fares – it’s enjoyed by all: from children playing with their siblings, to family members competing at celebrations.
Don’t feel shy about approaching groups of domino players. They’ll be glad of your interest and happy to chat. They may even invite you to play so practice that ‘slam’! 50
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Domino competitions For the avid players who seek more than entertainment, there are national competitions that can last for weeks, with each round held at a different bar or ‘rum shop’ around the island. The competition is a social event with members of the community observing and passing comment (not always complimentary!) on the play. All washed down with a few cold Piton beers.
Local domino terminology In Saint Lucia there are some colloquial domino terminologies: sapat refers to a player who has four consecutive wins; dos bal is where a player can win with a tile that fits at either end of the board.
Weird + Wonderful
Saint Lucians don’t bat an eyelid at certain sights because we grew up with them. Those same sights can be a bit of a surprise for visitors.
Blue Bananas While driving through the countryside, perhaps on your first journey on Lucian roads after arriving at the airport, you spot trees with large, blue appendages. And you naturally wonder why. This is an agricultural practice that our banana farmers have been following for decades. Blue tinted plastic bags are placed over the banana bunches to protect the fruit (which botanically isn’t a fruit but a berry from a rhizome). The blue tint protects the bananas from harsh, direct sunlight so that they don’t ripen prematurely. The plastic also deters birds and insects from eating the bananas and stops them from being bruised by the tree’s large leaves. So those blue bags ensure that our bananas are in tip-top condition for the consumer.
COAL POT
We Lucians love our food, particularly when cooked the traditional way on a coal pot. It’s our form of barbecue and is popular at festivals and holidays. The pot is made by hand from clay with a perforated dish on top of a pedestal. Charcoal burns in the dish and the ashes fall through the holes. Pots or foil-wrapped parcels of food are placed on the coals and imbued with a wonderful flavour as they cook. Choiseul on the west coast is famous for its coal pots. If you see one being used at a roadside stall, do stop and buy some of the delicious food.
BOA CONSTRICTOR This snake is known locally as a tete-chien (French for dog’s head). It is found in drier, grassy areas and can grow to a length of ten feet. You will be relieved to learn that it is not poisonous. As a tourist you are most unlikely to encounter one in the wild but you may well see one on a drive along the coastal roads, draped around a local’s neck. Do pull over and investigate. Remember that the person with the snake will expect money.
51
Index
Find your way Tours AT SEA Daytime and sunset cruises
KAYAKING Jungle Reef Adventures Anse Chastanet, tel. 457 1400
www.junglereefadventures.com
ECO Dive St Lucia Charters
DFH Kayaking
Soufriere, tel. 713 6047
Marigot Bay, tel. 451 7716
www.ecodivestlucia.com
dfhkayaking.com
WHALE & DOLPHIN WATCHING
kitesurfing
The winter sees humpback whales
Aquaholics
migrating to local waters, while
Tel. 726 0600
sperm and pilot whales and playful
www.aquaholicsstlucia.com
dolphins can be sighted all year.
Join a tour or charter our own boat.
Kitesurfing St Lucia Capt. Mike’s Sports Fishing
Cas en Bas, tel. 714 9589
Endless Summer Catamarans
& Whale Watching
www.kitesurfingstlucia.com
Tel. 450 8651
Tel. 452 4845/452 7044
www.stluciaboattours.com
www.captmikes.com
The Reef Vieux Fort, tel. 454 3418
Southern Breeze Catamaran
Hackshaw’s Boat Charters
Tel. 450 8651
Tel. 453 0553
www.stluciaboattours.com
www.hackshaws.com
www.slucia.com/reef
PARASAiling Parasail St Lucia
Mango Tango Catamarans
Exodus Boat Charters
Tel. 485 8484
Tel. 452 8644
Tel. 485 3966
www.stluciaparasail@yahoo.com
www.seaspraycruises.com
www.exodusstlucia.com
Black Magic Pirate Ship
Mystic Man Ocean Adventures
Jetovator
Tel. 452 8644
Soufriere, tel. 459 7783
Tel. 484 7433
www.seaspraycruises.com
www.mysticmantours.com
www.jetovatorflight.com
Carnival Sailing
SAILING & YACHT CHARTERS
DIVING
Bateau Mygo
www.divesaintlucia.com
Tel. 452 5586 www.carnivalsailing.com Jus’Sail
Tel. 458 3947
Tel. 458 0069/287 1071
info@bateaumygo.com
www.jussail.com
Dive Saint Lucia Rodney Bay, tel. 451 DIVE (3483)
Scuba St. Lucia – Anse Chastanet Anse Chastanet, tel. 457 1400
Discover St Lucia Yachting Joe Knows Tours
452 8531
Tel. 728 4049
www.dsl-yachting.com
www.joeknowsstlucia.com
POWERBOATS & SPORTFISHING
JETOVATOR
www.scubastlucia.com Scuba Steve’s Rodney Bay, tel. 450 9433
First4Sail
www.scubastevesdiving.com
Learn to sail on a racing yacht. Tel. 518 1187
Island Divers
www.first4sail.com
Anse Cochon, tel. 456 8110
Capt. Mike’s Sports Fishing &
www.tikaye.com/diving
Whale Watching
St. Lucia Yacht Club
Tel. 452 4845/452 7044
Tel. 452 8350
Dive Fair Helen
www.captmikes.com
www.stluciayachtclub.com
Marigot Bay, tel. 451 7716
www.divefairhelen.com Hackshaw’s Power Boats
WATERSPORTS
TreeTop Adventure Park Dennery Tel. 458 0908/724 7256 www.adventuretourstlucia.com Hotwires Morne Coubaril, tel. 459 7340
www.stluciaziplining.com
SEGWAY TOURS St. Lucia Segway RodneyBay Tel. 452 8300/724 8300 www.stluciasegway.com
ATV TOURS ATV Paradise Tours Ltd. Tel. 455 3245 www.atvstlucia.com
OFF-ROAD BIKING Bike St Lucia Soufriere, tel. 457 1400 www.bikestlucia.com TreeTop Adventures Dennery Tel. 458 0908/724 7256
www.adventuretourstlucia.com
HORSEBACK RIDING Trim’s National Riding Academy Gros Islet, tel. 450 8273 www.trimsridingstlucia.com International Pony Club Gros Islet, tel. 452 8139 www.internationalponyclub.net North Point Riding Cap Estate, tel. 488 2013 www.northpointriding.com Morne Chouval Soufriere, tel. 730 5975 www.mornechouval.com Island Riders Tel. 584 7555 stluciahorserides.blogspot.com
www.hackshaws.com
pedaloes.
ON LAND
Holiday Riding Stables
Exodus Boat Charters
Saluna Watersports
ziplining
www.horse-riding.net
Tel. 485 3966
Tel. 518 8720/518 8236
www.exodusstlucia.com
www.saluna-watersports.com
Tel. 453 0553
For kayaks, paddleboards and
Rainforest Adventures Chassin, Babonneau.
Mystic Man Ocean Adventures
Also: Arerial tram and nature trails
Soufriere, tel. 459 7783
Tel. 458 5151
www.mysticmantours.com
www.rainforestadventure.com
52
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Tel. 714 7433
Hoofprints Roseau Valley, tel. 520 5102 Atlantic Shores Tel. 285 1090/454 8660 www.atlanticridingstables.com
HERITAGE & CULTURE St. Lucia Heritage Tours Tel. 458 1454
www.heritagetoursstlucia.org Pigeon Island National Landmark 44 acres of parkland, hsitory, trails and beaches operated by the Saint Lucia Nationa Trust. Tel. 468 5649 www.slunatrust.org La Toc Battery Underground rooms, ammunition lifts and tunnels. Castries, tel. 452 7921
NATURAL WONDERS Diamond Falls and Mineral Baths Historical plantation with gardens and restaurant. Soufriere, tel. 459 7155 www.diamondstlucia.com Toraille Waterfall Near Fond St. Jacques Tel, 459 7527 www.soufrierefoundation.org Mamiku Gardens Tropical gardens with trails and restaurant. Praslin, tel. 455 3729 www.mamikugardens.com St Lucia Forestry Department Rainforest hikes and birdwatching tours. A guide must accompany all forest forays. Tel. 468 5646 www.stlucia.org
Tet Paul Nature Trail Within the Piton Manaement Area, Soufriere, tel. 459 7200 www.soufrierefoundation.org
Shopping
Castries Market Mix with the locals buying fish, fruit and vegetables. Meet the craftsmen and artists at the Craft Market where there’s a
Piton Hikes
Many shops offer Duty Free
wealth of wickerwork, leather
Tel. 486 1561
prices. Simply present your ID
sandals, clothing and coal pots
www. grospiton.com/petitpiton.
and travel details.
along with local spices, sauces, herbal remedies and tasty treats.
com Baywalk Mall
Castries Market has been listed
Located in Rodney Bay, Baywalk
by National Geographic as one of
Rhythm of Rhum
Mall features international brands
the Top Ten Markets in the world.
Tel. 456 9110
and local designers offering
Open Monday to Saturday, some
www.saintluciarums.com
clothing, souvenirs, liquor,
stalls on Sunday.
pefumes and jewellery. The mall
Castries Vendors’ Arcade
houses a gourmet supermarket,
The Castries Vendors' Arcade is
Sandals Golf & Country Club
drugstore, restaurants and bars
a potpourri of Saint Lucian arts
Cap Estate, tel. 450 8523
plus an ice cream parlour. Open
and crafts mixed with imported
info@stluciagolf.com
every day.
sarongs, shirts and beachwear.
TENNIS
JQ Mall
Rum Tasting
GOLF
Open Monday to Saturday.
St. Lucia National Tennis Centre
Also in Rodney Bay, JQ Mall
Pointe Seraphine
Beausejour, tel. 450 0429
offers a supermarket, post office,
Pointe Seraphine is on the north
www.saintluciatennis.com
drugstore, gift and craft shops,
side of Castries Harbour, Quality
Tennis is also available at many
clothing outlets and a rum retailer.
jewellery, clothing and souvenirs
major resorts.
A food court serves a selection
are available. Open Monday to
of locally-loved fare. Open every
Saturday, and on Sundays when
day, limited opening on Sunday.
cruise ships dock.
Rodney Bay, tel. 452 8350
IGY Rodney Bay Marina
La Place Carenage
www.stluciayachtclub.com
The emphasis at the marina is on
Located on the 'city' side of
bars, cafes and restaurants. There
IN THE AIR
Castries Harbour, La Place
are a few shops selling clothing
Carenage offers quality jewellery,
and souvenirs. Groceries and
clothes and keepsakes. Open
St. Lucia Helicopters
alcohol are available, including at
Monday to Saturday, and on
Tel. 453 6952
The Marketplace supermarket. A
Sundays when cruise ships dock.
www.stluciahelicopters.com
farmers' market is held Saturday
SQUASH St. Lucia Yacht Club
morning. Open every day.
ISLAND HOPPING
Marigot Marina Village A supermarket, café and boutique
Sunlink Tours
Gablewoods Mall
are just steps from the water.
Tel. 452 8929
Gablewoods Mall in Sunny Acres
Open daily.
www.stluciareps.com
has a supermarket, drugstore. clothing outlets and food court.
Vieux Fort Plaza
Open every day, limited opening
This smal plaza in the south of the
on Sunday.
island features a supermarket, drugstore, dress and shoe stores
Blue Coral Mall
plus fast food outlets. Open
Located in the heart of Castries,
Monday to Saturday.
on the William Peter Boulevard, this mall houses boutiques and cafes. Open Monday to Friday and half-day on Saturday.
Visual surprise is natural in the Caribbean; it comes with the landscape, and faced with its beauty, the sigh of History dissolves. Derek Walcott Read more at: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/derek_walcott_347202
53
Index
Wine & DINE
CASTRIES
WINDJAMMER LANDING: - DRAGONFLY
MARISULE
BROWN SUGAR
Overlooking beach and pool
Local fare
- JAMMER’S BEACH BAR
Vibe: Waterfront, Casual
Beachfront casual
French Creole/Asian
Open for lunch and dinner (bar
- UPPER DECK
Vibe: Elegant, Ocean View
open all day). Closed Monday
Steak and seafood (dinner only)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
TI KAYE RESORT & SPA
Tel. 458 1931
- EMBERS
Tel. 456 3500
- KAI MANJE
Email:brownsugarrestaurantand
Casual beach setting
www.calabashcove.com
International/Caribbean
bar@gmail.com
- PAPA DON'S
anse la raye
Italian, pizzas (dinner only)
Vibe: Elegant, with cliff ocean view. Impressive wine cave
AUBERGE SERAPHINE
Tel. 456 9000
Open daily for dinner
Caribbean/international
www.windjammer-landing.com
- TI MANJE
Vibe: Overlooks harbour
Beach fare
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Vibe: Barefoot casual
Tel. 453 2073
Open daily for lunch
MARIGOT BAY
CALABASH COVE - WINDSONG RESTAURANT
RODNEY BAY BIG CHEF STEAKHOUSE Angus steak and seafood Vibe: Elegant, air-conditioned Open daily for dinner
CHATEAU MYGO
Tel. 450 0210 www.bigchefsteakhouse.com
Tel. 456 8101/718 1122
THE COAL POT RESTAURANT
Seafood/East Indian/Creole
www.tikaye.com
French Caribbean
Vibe: Waterfront, friendly
Vibe: Waterfront
and HURRICANE HOLE
BLUE OLIVE RESTAURANT
Open: Monday to Saturday -
Bar food
Home-made pasta/international
lunch,
Vibe: Casual, waterfront
Vibe: Waterside dining
ELEGANCE CAFE
daily for dinner
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Open for dinner. (closed Friday)
Indian/international
Tel. 452 5566
Tel. 451 4772
Te.: 458 2433, mobile 730 2433
Vibe: Open air and indoor
Email: coalpot@candw.lc
www.chateaumygo.com
Tel. 450 9460
PINK PLANTATION HOUSE
CAPELLA
Tel. 450 9864
Lucian homestyle cuisine
- THE GRILL AT 14˚61
Vibe: Al fresco sidewalk
Vibe: Historic; lush garden,
International
Open Mon - Sat 8 am - 6 pm
CAP MAISON
verandah with panoramic view
- RUM CAVE
Sunday until 1..30 pm
- THE CLIFF AT CAP
Open daily for lunch
Rums and dining
Tel. 452 0671
International/local
Tel. 452 5422
- BRUT BAR AND POOL BAR
Vibe: Cliffside elegance
wildorchidstlucia@hotmail.com
Swim-up, casual
BUZZ SEAFOOD & GRILL
- BAYSIDE CAFE
Seafood/international
In the Village Marina
Vibe: Garden and indoor
Tel. 458 5300
Open for dinner. Closed Monday.
www.cape;;ahote;s.com
Tel. 458 0450
CAP ESTATE
Open Mon - Sat 11 am - 9.30 pm
Breakfast, lunch and dinner Tel. 457 8681
micoud
- THE NAKED FISHERMAN
BONNE BAGUETTE CAFE French, international
Seafood
FOX GROVE INN
Vibe: Beach Casual
Local/international
Open daily for lunch
Vibe: Countryside sea view
DOOLITTLE'S RESTAURANT + BAR
Wed - Sun for dinner
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Steak, seafood, local, international
Tel. 457 8694
Tel. 454 0271
Vibe: Waterfront dining
- CHIC
www.capmaison.com
www.foxgroveinn.com
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
International fine dining
Tel. 451 4974
LABORIE
Vibe: Upscale elegance, AC
www.marigotbeachclub.com
Open: Monday - Saturday 7 - 10.30
Asian, fusion
DEBBIE’S PLACE, SAPPHIRE
MASALA BAY
- L’EPICURE
Vibe: Fine dining
ESTATE
Indian regional & Hakka
International/Caribbean
Open daily for dinner.
Homemade local fare
Vibe: Waterside balcony
Vibe: Beachside casual
Tel. 457 7800
Vibe: Creole, rustic
Open for lunch and dinner
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
www,thebodyholiday.com
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Closed Monday
Tel. 452 9999
Tel. 455 1625
Tel. 451 4500
LABRELOTTE BAY
PIRATE BAY
Smokehouse barbecue
French Creole/seafood
Vibe: Casual, open air
THE BODYHOLIDAY
www.buzzseafoodgrill.com
AT LE SPORT - TAO
SANDALS GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB
ROYAL ST LUCIAN
p.m.
Local/international
DELIRIUS
Vibe: Casual, view of golf course
EASTWINDS INN
Vibe: Waterside casual
Open for lunch and dinner
Open daily for breakfast and
Caribbean/international
Open for lunch and dinner
Closed Thursday
lunch
Vibe: Beachfront
Tel. 451 5889
Tel. 451 3354
BBQ dinner Friday 7 pm - 9 pm
Open daily for lunch and dinner
Tel. 450 8523
Tel. 452 8212
Email: info@stluciagolf.com
www.deliriussstlucia.com THE MANGROVE Stone pizza oven. Vibe: Dining and entertainment Social media: themangrovestlucia
54
T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
BAY GARDENS BEACH RESORT
SPINNAKERS BEACH BAR
BREAD BASKET
LADERA RESORT - DASHEENE
Local/European
Local/international
Upscale Creole
- HI TIDE
Vibe: Casual beachfront
Vibe: Casual
Vibe: Piton view, open wall
Cuisine: Caribbean/international
Open: Daily 9 am - 10 pm
Open all day (closed Monday)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Vibe: Beachfront casual
Tel, 452 8491
Tel. 452 0647
Tel. 459 7323
www.spinnakersbeachbar.com
CAFE OLE
www.ladera.com
Breakfast, lunch and dinner - SEAGRAPES BEACH BAR & GRILL Caribbean/international Vibe: Barefoot casual Open daily 10 am - 5pm Tel. 457 8500
COCO PALM TI BANANNE BISTRO & BAR, and CREOLE GRILL French Caribbean Vibe: Poolside bistro Open: Daily 7 a.m. – 10 p.m. Tel. 456 2800 IL PAPPA PIZZERIA (Key Largo) Authentic Italian Pizza Vibe: Open air and Indoor Open for dinner (closed Monday) Tel. 452 0282/719 6535 JAM ROCK
TAPAS ON THE BAY Tapas/international Vibe: Waterfront, casual Open for brunch and dinner (closed Tuesday) Tel. 451 2433 www.tapasonthebay.com LA TERRASSE French Vibe: Casual garden setting Open for lunch and dinner (closed Sunday) Tel. 458 0392, mobile 730 0392 www.laterrassestlucia.com MATTHEWS BAR & RESTAURANT Caribbean/Mexican/Burgers Vibe: Casual Open for lunch (except Sunday) and dinner Tel. 572 0202/712 1134
Light meals, coffes, pastries Vibe: Cafe and Boardwalk bar
HOTEL CHOCOLAT - LE BOUCAN
Open daily until 10 pm
Creole/West Indian
Tel. 452 8726
Vibe: Cocoa estate chic Breakfast, lunch and dinner
RITUALS SUSHI
Tel. 572 9600
Sushi
www.hotelchocolat.com
Vibe: Casual Open for lunch and dinner
FOND DOUX ESTATE
(closed Monday)
Caribbean/international
Tel. 458 4344
Vibe: Tropical garden Open for lunch and dinner
ELENAS
Tel. 459 7545
Italian, pizza oven, ice cream
Email: fonddoux@candw.lc
Vibe: Relaxed Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner
LA HAUT RESORT
Tel. 451 0043
Local and seafood Vibe: View of the Pitons
ZAIKA
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Indian
Tel. 459 7008
Vibe: Retaurant with poolside bar
Email: lahaut@candw.lc
Open daily for lunch and dinner Tel. 459 2452
THE CABIN RESTAURANT Creole and Cajun
Caribbean Influenced
COCONUTZ
Vibe: Reggae Cafe and Grill
Mexican/international
Open: Noon till late. Buffet lunch
Vibe: Open air, casual
and theme night specials.
Open 5 pm – late (closed Monday)
STONEFIELD ESTATE
(Dinner by reservation)
Tel. 452 9365/729 JAMS
Tel. 723 0751/284 9222
- MANGO TREE
Tel. 457 1418
Vibe: Open air, rustic Open daily from 8 am
Creole/West Indian
Email: jamrockcafeslu@gmail.com
THE LANDINGS ISLAND MIX
- THE PALMS
Local fare
Fine dining - dinner
Vibe: Waterfront with gift shop
- BEACH CLUB
Open for coffee and lunch
International
(Next to Big Chef)
- CALLALOO Casual, on the beach
MEMORIES OF HONG KONG
Tel. 458 7300
Chinese/Cantonese
www.landingsstlucia.com
Open daily for dinner Tel. 452 8218
SOUFRIÈRE
pigeon island JAMBE DE BOIS
RAZMATAZ
Good local fare
Nepalese/Indian
Vibe: View of Rodney Bay
Vibe: Indoor and open air
Open for lunch every day,
Vibe: Open air, Piton view
THE STILL BEACH HOUSE
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Creole/West Indian
Tel. 459 5648
Vine: Open air, beach
www.stonefieldresort.com
Open daily 7 am.– 6 pm (Dinner by reservation)
MARTHA’S TABLE
Tel. 459 7620
Creole/West Indian
www.soufrierebeachhouse.com
Vibe: Homestyle Open: Monday to Friday for lunch
ORLANDO’S
Tel. 459 7270
Creole Flair Vibe: Casually elegant
ANSE CHASTANET HOTEL
Open for dinner,
- APSARA
Wednesday – Sunday for lunch
East Indian-Caribbean fusion
Tel. 722 6265
- TREEHOUSE
orlandosatsoufriere@gmail.com
Fine dining
Open for dinner (closed Tuesday)
dinner Wednesday - Sunday
Tel. 452 9800
Tel. 450 8166
- TROU AU DIABLE
RODNEY BAY marina
- JUNGLE
THE REEF RESTAURANT & BAR
Beach grill at Anse Mamin
Cuisine: Creole/International
- EMERALDS
Atmosphere: Beachfront
Vegetarian
Open: Monday 8 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Tel. 459 7000
Tuesday – Sunday 8 a.m. - 10 p.m.
www.ansechastanet.com
Tel: 454 3418
SPICE OF INDIA Indian Regional Vibe: Indoor and open air Open for lunch and dinner (closed Monday) Tel. 458 4243 www.spiceofindiastlucia.com
BOSUN’S BAR & BISTRO Thai Gastropub Vibe: Casual Open daily 8 a.m. - 11 p.m.
VIEUX FORT
Beach restaurant and grill
Email: reef@slucia.com
Tel. 458 4190 bosuns.bar.bistro@hotmail.com
55
Index
Local Info
Avis Rent-a-Car Castries 452 2700 George F L Charles Airport
BUSES Their license plates are green and begin with an ‘M’.
452 2046
Rodney Bay Medical Centre 452 8621 Gros Islet Polyclinic 450 9661
Hewanorra Airport 454 6325
Bus Fares
Email: avisslu@candw.lc
Telephone code
Castries to Gros Islet: EC$2.50
www.avisstlucia.com
DRUGSTORES
Castries to Rodney Bay: EC$2.25
Best Rates 24 Hours Car
R.J. Clarke Ltd.
The area code for St Lucia is 758.
Castries to Choc/Vigie: EC$1.50
& SUV Rental
Castries 452 2727
CURRENCY
Castries to Vieux Fort: EC$8.00
Castries 452 1330
Rodney Bay 456 0361
Castries to Soufriere: EC$8.00
Email: 24hourscarrental@candw.lc
M&C Drug Store
The Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$) is tied to the US$. Bank
www.24hourscarrental.com
exchange on US Traveler's
Budget Rent-a-Car
Cheques is EC$2.68 and on US cash EC$2.67.
AIRPORTS
Bridge Street 458 8147 Gablewoods Mall 458 8151
George F L Charles Airport
Bois d’Orange 452 9887
Baywalk Mall 458 8153
Castries 457 6149
Hewanorra Airport 454 7470
Daher Mall 458 8155
Hewanorra International Airport
Email: budgetcars@candw.lc
Massy Pharmacy
Vieux Fort 457 6160
Castries 457 2227
CREDIT CARDS
www.budget-stlucia.com
Widely accepted at all major
Courtesy Car Rentals Ltd.
shopping malls, restaurants,
Bois d’Orange 452 8140
hotels, etc.
Email: info@courtesy
1 800 744 0006/459 6500
carrentals.com
TIPPING
Delta Airlines
www.courtesycarrentals.com
1 800 221 1212/454 3119
Most places include a 10% service
Drive-A-Matic Car Rentals
HTS Channel 34 or 47,
British Airways
charge on top of any government
Opposite Rodney Bay Marina
CHOICE Channel 39 or 50
1 800 247 9297/484 6172
tax. Your server will appreciate
452 0544
DBS Channel 35 or 46,
Virgin Atlantic
a gratuity. Tipping tour guides is
Email: reservationslu@carhire.tv
Visitor Channel 50 or 51.
1 800 744 7477/454 3610
acceptable and appreciated.
www.drivestlucia.com
Air Canada
Operative Car Rental
ELECTRICITY
454 6038
Corinth, Gros Islet 518 0923
WestJet
220 volts AC, 50 cycles.
www.operativecarrental.com
1 800 204 0409
CLIMATE
TAXIS
From November to February the
Their license plates are blue or
Air Caraibes
approximate temperatures are
red and begin with ‘TX’.
453 0357
night.
Taxi Fares
December and January are
Castries to Gros Islet:
BANKS
the coolest months of the year.
EC$66/US$25
All Branches 455 7000
From April to October the day
Rodney Bay to Gros Islet town:
First Caribbean International
temperature is approximately
EC$20/US$8
Bridge Street 456 1000
Embassies
84˚F/29C and the night 73˚F/23C.
Rodney Bay to Pigeon Island:
Rodney Bay Marina 456 1500
High Commission of
June to August is the hottest
EC$20/US$8
Soufriere 459 7255
the United Kingdom
period of the year.
Castries to Soufriere:
Vieux Fort 454 6255
452 2484/5
EC$424/US$160
DRIVING LICENSE
Bank of Nova Scotia
Email: britishhc@candw.lc
Castries to Vieux Fort:
Vieux Fort 454 6314
www.ukinbarbados.fco.gov.uk
Visitors must have a Temporary
EC$212/US$80
Rodney Bay 452 8805
Driving Permit, obtainable
Castries to Anse La Raye:
Castries 456 2100
EC$160/US$60
Embassy of the French Republic
from the Immigration Office at
Bank of St Lucia
Prices provided by Courtesy Taxi.
to OECS Member States
Hewanorra Airport or the Gros
All Branches 456 6000
455 6060
RBC Royal Bank
www.ambafrance-lc.org
AIRLINES
Vieux Fort 457 2090
American Airlines
LIAT 1974 Ltd 452 2348/453 1219
81˚F/27C by day and 71˚F/22C at
Islet Police Station. A 3-month
Rodney Bay 457 2090
1st National Bank
TELEVISION Local stations:
TOURISM INFORMATION Saint Lucia Tourism Authority (SLTA) 458 7101 Email: information@stlucia.org www.stlucia.org Saint Lucia Hotel & Tourism Association (SLHTA) 453 1811/452 5979 Email: slhta@slhta.com www.slhta.com
permit is US$20/EC$54. Driving
Courtesy Taxi Co-op Society
Castries 456 9200
permits are also issued by major
Point Seraphine 452 1733
Baywalk Mall 457 6300
Citizens of the United States
car rental firms. We drive on the
Email: courtesy@candw.lc
RBC/RBTT Caribbean
Contact the United States
left hand side of the road.
www.courtesytaxi.com
Micoud Street 452 2265
Embassy in Barbados.
Vigie Airport Taxi Service
Gablewoods Mall 453 2265
Telephone: 1 (246) 227 4000
George F L Charles Airport
Baywalk Mall 457 4371
car RENTAL Adventure Leisure Car Rental
452 1599
Rodney Bay 452 0777
North Lime Taxi Association
MEDICAL CENTRES
Email: info@al-rentals.com
Rodney Bay 452 8562
Tapion Hospital
of Canada in Trinidad.
www.al-rentals.com
Soufriere Taxi Association
La Toc 459 2000
Telephone: 1 (868) 622 6232
All St Lucia
Soufriere 459 5562
Victoria Hospital
Rodney Bay 452 0777
Vieux Fort 454 6136
Castries 452 2421
Email: leisurecars@candw.lc
EMERGENCY
Email: info@southerntaxi.com
St. Jude Hospital
Police 999
www.allstlucia..com
www.southerntaxi.com
Vieux Fort 459 6701/454 6041
Fire/Ambulance 911
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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • FEB/MAR/APR 2018
Citizens of Canada Contact the High Commissioner
S I G N AT U R E C O L L ECT I O N
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