Tropical Traveller ( Vol. 298 - Aug/Sept/Oct 2018)

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Aug/Sept/Oct 2018

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PULL-OUT MAPS Find your way around

FESTIVALS Roots & Soul Arts & Heritage La Rose & La Marguerite

Like us on facebook & instagram

CREOLE CULTURE Music, dress, language Jounen Kweyol

FOOD Lucian faves Restaurant reviews Wine & Dine Guide www.tropicaltraveller.com

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I.N.O.X. CARBON #241776

LIFE IS YOUR ADVENTURE

MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884

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AUG / SEPT /OCT 2018

Vol 298 Cover Photo Amazing view of the Pitons Photographer: Kareem Stanley Model: Solange Lenihan Location: Crystals Villa Hotel, Soufriere Mae Wayne Publisher & Editor in Chief

THERAPY

East Winds

32 RETAIL Shopping suggestions

Linda Andrew Creative Director

51 SPORT Open water swimming

Contributing writers Doretta Francois Claudia Eleibox Keryn Nelson Joshua St. Aimee Emanuel Alexander Heather Floissac Barbara Steel

44 HEADLINES Latest tourism news

PROPERTY

EVENTS

4 TEAM TT Hello from us!

8 CALENDAR OF EVENTS Festivals and holidays

20 LAND TOuR Jacquot Trail hike

10 ROOTS & SOuL FESTIVAL Performers and venues

ART

6 TOuRIST TALK What visitors are saying 12 READERS’ REFLECTIONS How they ended up in Saint Lucia

OUR ISLAND 27-30 PuLL-OuT MAPS Find your way around

11 MERCuRy FEST ARTS & HERITAGE MONTH including Jounen Kweyol

ROMANCE 14 WEDDING Michael and Linda Alkire

24 FOLK TALES Compere Lapin

TOURS

31 VILLAGE Babonneau

15 SHOPPING Harry Edwards Jewelers

40-41 CuLTuRE National dress Flower festivals

16 uNDERWATER WORLD Diving

42 HISTORy Great Fire of Castries

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18 By SEA Boat rides for everybody

22 MeCuRATOR ART GALLERy Championing local art

FOOD & DRINK 26 HAPPy HOuR GuIDE In and around Rodney Bay 34 LOCAL STyLE Kweyol snacks 36-37 RESTAuRANTS Recommendations for breakfast, lunch and dinner

ENTERTAINMENT 38-39 MANMAy LA KAy A local shak-shak band

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

Claudia Eleibox Editor’s Assistant

48 WELLNESS Traditional local plants

NEWS BITES

VIEWPOINTS

Doretta Francois Editor doretta.f@stluciastar.com

46 RESORT SPOTLIGHT East Winds 47 REAL ESTATE Property acquisition

DIRECTORIES

52

Tours

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Shopping

Bill Mortley Director of Photography billmortleyphotography.com Contributing photographers Dani Devaux Dawn Shewan Daniel Marcion David Pascal Chris Huxley Carol Lavender Vanessa Julien Advertising & Sales Manager vanessa.j@stluciastar.com Richard Jn-Pierre Advertising & Sales Executive richard.j@stluciastar.com Sancha Didier Distribution sancha.d@stluciastar.com Star Publishing Company Ltd Rodney Bay Industrial Estate, Massade, Gros Islet, PO Box 1146 Castries, St Lucia Telephone: (758) 450 7827 Fax: (758) 450 8694 TROPICAL TRAVELLER IS A QuARTERLy MAGAZINE

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Wine & Dine

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Local Info

ON STANDS: Publication dates for 2018/19 AUG, NOV, FEB, MAY. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior consent of the publishers.

Printed & Published by STAR Publishing Company Ltd


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Team TT SMALL ISLAND

with lots to offer

We at TT are immensely proud of Saint Lucia, and justifiably so. Wonderful climate, stunning scenery, beautiful beaches, Caribbean sea, friendly people . . . The list goes on. Here our Publisher, Editor and writers reveal what makes each day superb for them and how easy it is for you to have a slice of our lovely island life.

I

have lived in Saint Lucia some 30 years, and have published this magazine for most of those three decades, so there isn’t much on this island I haven’t seen! When a friend asked me to join her to go horse-back riding I jumped at the opportunity since it was something I hadn’t done in a while. And what a fun day it was! For three hours I got to see Saint Lucia like never before. Its untouched beauty, its tropical forests, the rugged coastline – this is the kind of scenery movies are made from. On horse-back you can really shut off from the fast pace of life for a while and imagine yourself in a tranquil world full of colour brought to life by the magnificence of the island’s tropical flora and turquoise blue ocean. Check out our directory (commencing page 52) and choose a horse-back riding tour so you can see beautiful Saint Lucia in a new and fascinating way.

Mae Publisher

I

love living in Saint Lucia! It’s a great place to be - all year round. We are in the ‘hurricane season’ which is designated annually as 1st June to 30th November. The weather is hotter and, of course, wetter. It’s considered the slow season: fewer cruise ships sail the Caribbean Sea, tourist numbers are down and some hotels and restaurants close for a month or so but that does not mean that there isn’t plenty to do. Saint Lucia now has the Soleil Summer Festival, with two of the events taking place this quarter: the Roots and Soul Festival from 31st August to 2nd September (see page 10) and the Arts and Heritage Festival during the entire month of October (see page 11). Then, for the fun-loving and energetic, there is Mercury Fest commencing the weekend of 10th August (page 10). Whatever the month, Saint Lucia offers all sorts of tours, activities and sports, whether on land, on the waves or underwater. Yes, this is a small island but it’s jam-packed with interesting, fun, sporty and cultural things to do. Make the most of it and enjoy your time in our slice of paradise.

Doretta Editor

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rowing up in Saint Lucia, the most popular sports are traditionally cricket and football. Despite this, as a child I gravitated to basketball. Now, standing at 6'4, the sport continues to be my favourite. Its popularity in Saint Lucia is continually growing, and this year was a big step forward in the right direction. After years of absence from competing in overseas tournaments, the senior male national team finally came out of retirement and participated in the FIBA AmeriCup 2021 Caribbean PreQualifier. As the team took to the floor in Suriname, miles away from home, I was locked in, determined to witness history. Dressed in their uniforms with 'St. Lucia' blazoned across their chests, the feeling of national pride was uncontainable! With the island producing internationally renowned athletes like cricketer Daren Sammy and high jumper Levern Spencer, I hope that basketball will be next in the spotlight. Saint Lucia is a wonderful place to pursue sports so, whatever your field, take advantage of our weather and the great outdoors.

Joshua Contributing Writer

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


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Visitors Q&A

tourist talk

JaN aNd Bill BoNe Cornwall, UK

NaNcy atkiNsoN West Virginia, USA We bumped into Nancy, a former editor of this very magazine, at the MeCurator art gallery

We spotted Jan painting at Rendezvous Resort

TT: Hello! Your faces look familiar. Jan: They should be! This is our thirteenth holiday here! TT: What do you like so much about Saint Lucia? Jan: The people - so friendly and welcoming. Bill: Indeed! I like to walk into Castries and observe the hustle and bustle of daily life. I stand near the market and somebody always comes up to me and chats. The other day it was a police officer! TT: Where do you stay each time you visit the island? Bill: It has to be Rendezvous! For us it’s the perfect hotel. It provides exactly what we want. TT: What have you done on this trip? Jan: Mainly relaxing and painting. We enjoyed the gondola ride through the rainforest and a visit to the Botanical Gardens. Bill: We like to put something

back into the community so we shall make our usual visit to Vide Bouteille Primary School to help the children in reading classes. TT: What are your favourite local foods and drinks? Jan: It’s a very healthy diet here. I love the fresh fish and the fruits and vegetables, and I’ve discovered that Saint Lucian rum is fabulous for cooking, especially in flambeed bananas and beef casserole. Bill: The Piton beer is refreshing and as for the rum, well, the Chairmans’s Spiced is really rather nice!

We like to put something back into the community so we shall make our usual visit to Vide Bouteille Primary School to help the children in reading classes share your pictures with us

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

TT: Hey Nancy! Welcome back to Saint Lucia! What brings you here? Nancy: Even though I’m now living in West Virginia, I still consider Saint Lucia to be my home. So, I’m back to see friends, explore familiar haunts and see what’s new. TT: What have you been doing on this trip? Nancy: Playing a lot of golf! I love taking daily walks on the beach and I’ve been enjoying dance lessons with Peter St. Rose at Salsa St. Lucia. I’ve had wonderful afternoons horse-riding; Marlon at North Point Riding Stables and Fidel at Holiday Riding Stables both offer great rides along the Atlantic coastline. I never get tired of those views. TT: How do you chill out? Nancy: Iyengar yoga lessons with Jill at Harmony Suites! I also enjoy meeting up with friends at Rodney Bay Marina and 7th Heaven coffee shop

@tropicaltraveller

#tropicaltraveller

at Harbor Club. And I always get my hair styled by Emil when on the island. TT: We bet you’ve missed the local food! Nancy: Definitely! Bake and saltfish from the food truck on the Pigeon Island causeway is a must. And just this morning my taxi driver treated me to a dhal; it was delicious! TT: What will you miss when you leave here? Nancy: All my wonderful Saint Lucian friends! Then there’s the fresh, tropical fruit and, oh yes, the lack of snow! TT: What do you take away when you leave? Nancy: Besides plenty of wonderful memories, I don’t get on that plane without a bottle of Chairman’s Reserve rum and some virgin coconut oil. TT: Thanks Nancy. Enjoy your time here. Nancy: I always do - nothing beats being in Saint Lucia.


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Events Calendar

Dec

A month for sailors! Participants in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) will arrive on our shores, their accomplishment celebrated with events over several weeks. Friday 30th November to Sunday 2nd December The Mango Bowl Sailing Regatta

Aug

Wednesday 12th Festival of Lights and Renewal

Chocolate Heritage Month Wednesday 1st Emancipation Day - public holiday Weekend commencing Friday 10th Mercury Fest Thursday 30th La Rose Festival Friday 31st to Sunday 2nd September Roots and Soul Festival www.stlucia.org/summer festival

Oct

The entire month is a celebration of our Creole heritage. It will feature Sunday 7th Oktoberfest en Kweyol Arts and Heritage Festival www.stlucia.org/summer festival

Monday 1st Thanksgiving - public holiday Tuesday 16th to Saturday 20th St. Lucia Billfish Tournament (facebook @ slugamefishingassociation)

Sept

Wednesday 17th La Marguerite Festival

Saturday 8th to Saturday 15th Saint Lucia Dive Fest

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Sunday 28th Jounen Kweyol

Nov

Tri St Lucia 2018 Sunday 18th (provisional)

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

Thursday 13th National Day - public holiday Tuesday 25th Christmas Day - public holiday Wednesday 26th Boxing Day - public holiday

Jan

Tuesday 1st - public holiday and Wednesday 2nd Assou Square Celebrations Nobel Laureate Festival A series of events from mid to late January in recognition of Saint Lucia’s two Nobel laureates, Sir Arthur Lewis and Sir Derek Walcott, who shared the birthday 23rd January.

Feb

Friday 22nd Independence Day 40th anniversary


IntroducIng

re-invented

Water’s edge al fresco dining specialising in the island’s freshest seafood. 2 happy hours daily from 5-7 p.m. + 10-11 p.m. Live entertainment Saturday evenings featuring saxophonist Barbara Cadet. Dress code - resort casual Complimentary ferry ride

TELEPHONE (758) 451 4974 North Side, Marigot Bay

EXPERIENCE A DELICIOUS JOURNEY IN THIS CHOCOLATE MAKING TOUR. SEE, FEEL, HEAR AND SMELL THE TRANSFORMATION TO FOND DOUX’S CHOCOLATE.

THE AWARD WINNING FOND DOUX PLANTATION & RESORT IN SOUFRIERE SAINT LUCIA HAS NOW OPENED ITS VERY FIRST CHOCOLATE SHOP

“PLAS CACAO”. TOUR PRICES CHOCOLATE MAKING US$40.00 PLUS 10% SERVICE CHARGE AND 10% VAT

TREE TO BAR US$65

PLUS 10% SERVICE CHARGE AND 10% VAT

To book your Fond Doux Chocolate Heritage Tour, please call (1758) 4597545 /48 or Cell #7168801.

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Events

SAINT LUCIA

roots aNd soul festiVal

The Roots and Soul Festival, part of the 2018 Soleil Saint Lucia Summer Festival, takes place in the north of the island ‪between Friday 31st August and Sunday 2nd September‪‪. The line-up of Roots, Reggae and Soul artists is cosmopolitan including Saint Lucian and regional musicians, all the way through to international A-list names.‪‪ BEEniE Man

shaynE Ross

Friday 31st August, 7.30 pm

royaltoN saiNt lucia resort & spa, cap estate

DEVA MAHAL

The opening night kicks off with a taste of home-grown talent: Saint Lucia’s Werner ‘Semi’ Francis whose appearances, especially with Ronald ‘Boo’ Hinkson at local resorts and at Big Chef Steakhouse in Rodney Bay, have impressed audiences. Then, down from the States, will be Indie R&B/soul singer Deva Mahal who was “born with the blues in her blood”. Sunday 2nd September, 4 pm Saturday 1st September, 6 pm

pigeoN islaNd NatioNal laNdmark

Saint Lucian Stacey Charles, who recently performed in the UK, sets the mood for an evening of great music. Next up will be dancehall artist Krys from Guadeloupe who has a strong following regionally and in France. The island welcomes back Taj Weekes, the internationally renowned reggae musician, humanitarian and UNICEF Champion for Children who was born in Saint Lucia and is now based in the United States. Gracing our shores will be Nigerian Yemi Alade who first found fame throughout Africa and has since shared the stage with international artists including Mary J. Blige. The headline act on the ‪Saturday night‪ will be the Jamaican who has enjoyed decades of hits and worldwide popularity: Beenie Man.

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pigeoN islaNd NatioNal laNdmark

Saint Lucian singing sensation Shayne Ross, known for his romantic ballads, will open the show. The next act will be Morning Sun & The Essentials featuring Saint Lucian-born Michel Aubertin and New Yorker Phil Grajko whose voices and instruments meld together when they play reggae. Patrons will be delighted to hear Jamaican Romain Virgo who won the Digicel Rising Stars Competition in 2007 when just seventeen years old. He went on to fame throughout the Caribbean and beyond; his 2018 album Lovesick reached number one on the Billboard Reggae Albums chart. The festival organisers have secured major artists for the closing act: Ja Rule and Ashanti. For more information visit www.stlucia.org/summerfestival

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

RoMain ViRGo

KRys


mercury fest

T

he successful August beach party, formerly known as Mercury Beach, has a new promoter and a new name for 2018: Mercury Fest. Held on the beach next to Pigeon Island over the weekend commencing Friday 10th August, it’s crazy fun! Mercury Beach was originally held in Martinique but in 2014 it moved to Saint Lucia. Held here annually, its popularity grew, with thousands arriving from throughout the Caribbean, especially from the French-speaking islands. Locals drove while other islanders flew in with many also arriving by boat - hundreds of vessels - because this is the beach party of the summer. This year Mercury Beach returned to Martinique and was held over the last weekend of July. But those Martinicans, and their fellow francophones, can’t get enough

KWEYOL PHRASES The official language in Saint Lucia is English but many people like to lapse into our local Kweyol (Creole or Patois). Indeed, for some older citizens in the countryside, it is still their main language. Here are some phrases that you might find useful. We haven’t given the pronunciations as we urge you to ask a Saint Lucian and hear it from them.

Good morning Bon jou Good afternoon Bonn apwé midi Good evening Bon swè Goodbye babay/adyé Two cold beers, please Dé Piton fwèt souplé A rum and coke, please An shòt wonm èk kok souplé A glass of white (red) wine, please A ven diven blan (wouj), souplé

arts & heritage moNth octoBer 2018 of a good thing and are planning to return to our shores to join Saint Lucians and other members of our party-loving Caribbean family for a second 2018 dose of beach, bikinis, music, dance, food, drink, foam and FUN! Expect the hottest DJs, live regional acts, a high-energy crowd, lots of foam, the best of Saint Lucian street food, and some of your most unforgettable days and nights of the year.

iNterestiNg fact

The event’s name derives from Mercury Marine, the manufacturer of marine engines (and snowmobiles - not that we use them in the Caribbean!). The first party was a ‘thank you’ to purchasers of the company’s products. Check local and social media for more information and for tickets.

How much is that? Komen pou sa Cheers! tjèz I should like some fish (chicken) please Ban mwen a mòso pwéson (chiken) souplé May I have chips/fries with that? Mwen sa jwenn a lo chips èk sa? This tastes delicious! Sa bon! Where is the nearest bank/supermarket/hospital/ petrol(gas) station/church/beach? Koté bank-lan/supanmawché-a/lopital-la/ ponpyié-a/légliz-la/lans-lan ki pli pwé isi-a? Where can I find a taxi? Koté mwen sa jwenn a taxi isi-a? My car has broken down Mashinn mwen doubout Where are the toilets/restroom? Koté sé pwévit-la? I like this music! Mwen enmen mizik sala I am happy! Mwen kontan I love being in Saint Lucia! Mwen kontan mwen an Sent Lisi

Saint Lucians are proud of their cultural and artistic heritage. To tie in with the celebration of Jounen Kweyol (Creole Day) on the last Sunday in October, the entire month will have a national programme to showcase our rich and diverse history and our traditional ways. Activities during October will include musical, theatrical and other performances, seminars and lectures, art exhibitions, culinary experiences and street parties. Even the supermarkets will have decorations, displays and our traditional music playing (see our feature on shak-shak bands on page 38). The culmination of the festival will be on Sunday 29th October with day-long celebrations in designated communities around the island. See local and social media for further information.

Jounen Kweyol International Creole Day is celebrated annually on 28th October. It is observed in former French colonies (of which Saint Lucia is one) and francophone nations which use a form of Creole language. Our island’s major celebrations of Jounen Kweyol always take place on the last Sunday in October. All are welcome at Jounen Kweyol. The sounds, sights and flavours are local but a warm greeting is given to tourists who want to join in. Demonstrations and artifacts show how past generations used to live, farm, prepare food and entertain themselves. Music fills the air, most people wear garments that show off Madras material (see our feature on National Dress on page 40) and absolutely everybody indulges in our delicious local food! Saint Lucians are also encouraged to speak the Creole language as much as possible. If you are not familiar with our native tongue, some handy words and phrases are in the box to the left.

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From Our Readers HOW I CAME TO BE IN

saiNt lucia Ricardo Josue Jr. is from the Philippines. He is a qualified aircraft mechanic but, in Saint Lucia, he is renowned as a talented chef. So why the change of location and profeSSion?

Readers can experience Ricardo’s expertly prepared sushi, sashimi and signature rolls at Crew Lounge on Sushi Deck at Harbor Club next to Rodney Bay Marina. Open 6pm-10pm Monday to Saturday, with a ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll’ Friday night special event.

“I

went to Dubai in 2004 due to lack of opportunity back home. Someone helped me to find a job in a kitchen. At first it was very tough for me because I had no idea what kitchen life was all about. On the first day I cried because I did not know how to control the temperature gauge of the boiler and I ended up spoiling the food. Imagine: I had to prepare oxtail soup and all the meat was broken up while the potatoes were still hard like a rock! But then I realized that it was just a

challenge for me, and I like challenges. I said, ‘Bring it on!’ My feeling was, the more work you give me to do, the more I sharpen my skills; like when you polish the diamond, you make it more shiny.” Ricardo’s Filipino mentor became a chef in Saint Lucia, at The Edge in Rodney Bay. When he was ready to take up a new post, he called Ricardo and invited him to apply for the newly vacant position. Ricardo reminisces, “When he said that it was in Saint Lucia, I said, ‘Where’s that?’ and he replied that I should Google it. I did, and I saw that it was small! But it also looked a lot like the island of Mindoro, where I am from. I felt it was my destiny to come here.” Ricardo arrived in Saint Lucia in 2008. After working at The Edge for a year, he progressed to The BodyHoliday where his experience in Asian cuisine was demonstrated at Tao restaurant. His skills resulted in an invitation to open another restaurant: Rituals Sushi in the IGY Rodney Bay Marina. Then on 1st January of this year, Ricardo transferred to Harbor Club where he is proud to be the Sushi Chef at Crew Lounge on Sushi Deck, with input at the resort’s other dining areas. He says, “Working at this new property is good for me as it gives me more room to grow. Expectations are high and I enjoy a challenge like that.” Ricardo has three pre-teenage children. So what does he cook for them? “Anything they like! I’ve introduced them to different cuisines like Indian, Thai, Singaporean, Korean, Japanese and, of course, Filipino and some Caribbean food.” TT wondered how Ricardo spends his spare time. “I have a vehicle; I’m the kind of guy that loves to drive. For example, I could buy a smoothie here in Rodney Bay but I would drive to Marigot, just for the fun of it. I like adventure: ziplining and scuba. And, of course, I love going to the beach with my friends.” And for the future? “I see myself in Saint Lucia because this is a wonderful place to live, especially for the children. Life is quiet here, not too fast and not too slow; it’s all ‘smooth sailing’. Don’t forget, I’m an island boy - I feel at home, even though I am far away from my original home. But I consider Saint Lucia my home now, and I love this place!”

Toddler Ricardo with his mother. Even then he had a passion for food!

Tropical Traveller would be delighted to hear from readers telling us how they ended up in beautiful Saint Lucia, whether to stay here long-term or passing through. Email the Editor at doretta.f@stluciastar.com

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


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Wedding Bells

liNda aNd michael 2nd June 2018 Villa Susanna, Marigot Bay

FROM RAINY DAYS TO

suNshiNe aNd loVe

Rain in a cool climate can be depressing (in tropical Saint Lucia we call it liquid sunshine!) Linda relocated from Manchester, the rain capital of the UK, when she was offered a job in Austin, Texas. Michael, tired of the precipitation in Portland, Oregon, quit his job and moved south. Little did either expect that running from rain would lead to love.

pre-weddiNg adVeNtures

Contacts Wedding Planner Awesome Caribbean Weddings Email: talktousatawesomecaribbeanweddings.com Tel. (758) 450 0300

Linda and Michael have energy! They drove around the island, took a mud bath, visited waterfalls, botanical gardens, went sailing, snorkeling, and climbed Gros Piton!

What you need to know to tie the knot in St. Lucia • Passports (valid for a minimum of six months) • Birth certificate • Two witnesses (stand-ins can be arranged) • Deed poll certificate (if your name has been changed) • Parental consent by way of an affidavit if below 18 • Death certificate and previous marriage certificate (if you have been widowed) • Decree absolute (if you’re divorced) • Only originals or certified copies • All legal documents should be faxed to the resort you are staying at to start the legal process. Documents in a foreign language require authorised English translation. Fees in EC: • Marriage License: $335 (seven days before marriage) • Special Marriage License: $540 (less than seven days before marriage) • Registrar fee: $160 • Marriage Certificate: $8

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

Photos by Daniel Marcion at Belle Portwe Photography

L

inda, a University Professor in Marketing, is a multi-lingual globetrotter. She was born in Simferopol, Crimea and grew up in Lebanon. Michael is a Director of Accounting; he grew up spending time in the outdoors of the Northwest US. Only two months after Linda took up her new job, she met her neighbour who turned out to be her soulmate. Linda describes their first date in September 2016: “We arranged to meet after work for a quick drink but ended up enjoying each other’s company so much that we went on to dinner and talked for six hours!” Wasting no time, they arranged to go paddle boarding the next Sunday on Lady Bird Lake. “We clicked instantly and were so comfortable around each other,” says Michael. “I didn’t want anyone else to have the chance of taking her.” The couple moved in together and Michael proposed as they watched the sunset from their balcony, just over a year after they first met. Linda and Michael share a love of travelling so it was no surprise that they decided on a destination wedding, but why Saint Lucia?

“The mountainous terrain appealed to us,” explains Linda. “It reminded me of Lebanon and Michael of Oregon. Plus the climate is good. It’s lovely that our first kiss was on water and that we married over water - on a bridge across a pool, overlooking the sea and at sunset, just like the proposal.” The wedding took place on Saturday 2nd June, 2018 at beautiful Villa Susanna in Marigot Bay. Guests were greeted by Caribbean music and a coconut man with welcome drinks. The exchange of vows was followed by a sand ceremony and a champagne reception with live guitar music. An al fresco dinner under the stars was Caribbean-themed, as was the night’s entertainment - a steel pan band - which had everyone non-stop dancing, although the couple’s first dance was a nod to their Texas home: ‘Amazed’ by Lonestar. “It was magical,” reminisces Linda. “Thanks to Michele, our wedding planner, we didn’t have to worry about anything; we could just relax and enjoy ourselves.” After the wedding, Linda and Michael, inveterate travellers that they are, spent a few more days in Saint Lucia before flying on to Barbados, Paris, Manchester and Cancun. TT wishes them every happiness as they clock up the miles and years together.


Tours ~ Shopping

MaRCo BiCEGo PaRadisE

HARRY EDWARDS

RayMond WEiL GEnEVE

A vacation would not be complete without a spot of shopping. And the best part about travelling to and from the island is that you can save money by buying duty free. TT visited Harry Edwards Jewelers to check out its range of jewellery, watches, sunglasses and accessories.

sWaRoVsKi

Jewelers

For something upmarket, The Heritage Collection from Breuning features customdesigned pendants, ear-rings, bangles and rings with cutouts in the shape of our island. They are striking and real conversation pieces.

hey big spender!

H

arry Edwards Jewelers is a Saint Lucian company established in 1999. It is proud to provide employment for 44 people. Its range includes the popular and the elite: from Michael Kors to Rolex, from Alex and Ani, Pandora and Swarovski to John Hardy and Marco Bicego.

Four Locations Three of the Harry Edwards Jewelers outlets are in Castries: the Main Store and the Fashion Store are at Pointe Seraphine Duty Free Shopping Complex; the third is at La Place Carenage on the other side of the harbour. The fourth location is the departure lounge at Hewanorra International Airport. The Main Store, in particular, has an excellent selection of watches and designer jewellery, for women and men, and diamonds for every budget. Pore over the Rolex and Cartier watch boutiques, or discover the Caribbean Exclusive Bob Marley timepiece among the Raymond Weil Special Editions. The Fashion Store is fun! This is where to find Marahlago jewellery incorporating the alluring blue, Caribbean gemstone larimar, the immensely popular Pandora jewellery (also available at the La Place Carenage

and Airport locations), and a wide selection of sunglasses from Ray-Ban, Maui Jim and Oakley. Enquire about any special deals on the merchandise; you may be lucky! The Airport outlet is convenient if you were too busy enjoying the sights of Saint Lucia to make it to Castries or if your accommodation was in the south of the island. Along with the luxury brands from the Main Store, this store is the only one to carry Chopard and Roberto Coin amongst its selection

Authorised Retailer Harry Edwards Jewelers is the official Rolex retailer in Saint Lucia with knowledgeable and courteous staff who are up-todate on the brand’s products. The company is also the island’s exclusive retailer of Breitling, Omega, Cartier and Swiss Army watches and of Pandora, Marco Bicego and Swarovski jewellery. The beautiful Hearts on Fire line of “The world’s most perfectly cut diamond” is available in Saint Lucia only at Harry Edwards Jewelers, as is the Mont Blanc line of quality pens and accessories.

souvenirs of saint lucia

Fans of Pandora will be delighted to learn that Harry Edwards Jewelers has partnered with the brand to offer exclusive Saint Lucia charms. Choose from pieces engraved with our nation’s flag or a depiction of the Pitons, or special Murano glass charms incorporating the name of the island and even of some select hotels here. Saint Lucians wishing to display national pride, or visitors in search of a keepsake, will love the stainless steel bangles with an eye-catching, enamelled Saint Lucian flag, and for only US$20! If you literally want to take home a piece of Saint Lucia then the Dune Jewelry range of items handcrafted in the USA is made with sand from Saint Lucian beaches.

If you want to do some bigbucks shopping without travelling to Castries, then Harry Edwards Jewelers offers its Personal Shopping Service. Get the VIP treatment with private transportation from your resort, villa, or even your yacht to the store, where you will be greeted with refreshments and a selection of pieces to match your requirements. Contact Harry Edwards Jewelers’ professionals directly, or speak with your concierge who will make all the necessary arrangements.

service centre

The well-equipped, state-ofthe-art Watch and Jewelery Service Centre is located upstairs in the central building at Pointe Seraphine. The highly-trained technicians are qualified to clean and overhaul items; indeed the Service Centre is recognized by Rolex: one of the watchmakers graduated from the Rolex Technical Institute in Nassau in the Bahamas, having satisfied the brand’s demanding quality criteria. If you want something completely original, jewellers with decades of experience can work with you on customized designs. The Service Centre is also happy to undertake minor repairs, cleaning and battery changes while you shop.

Facebook: @HarryEdwardsJewelersSLU Instagram: @harryedwardsjewelers Twitter: @HarryEdwardsSlu Opening hours: The stores in Castries are open Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm (4 pm if no cruise ship in port) and on Sundays if a cruise ship is docked. The outlet at Hewanorra International Airport is open 7 days a week at aircraft departure times.

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Tours ~ Underwater

RE-IMMERSING INTO THE TRUE BLUE

cariBBeaN sea! It was not my first dive. In fact the first and only time I’d dived before was four years ago so it’s safe to say I am still quite a newbie. What I did remember from that first experience, however, was that it was tremendous fun. So, when the opportunity to go underwater with Dive Saint Lucia presented itself, of course I agreed, no questions asked.

shRiMP

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


After a friendly reception at the Dive Saint Lucia premises on the Rodney Bay Marina dock, I signed my name on a few dotted lines to declare my good health and agreement to dive. I was introduced to Dive Master Lennon Browne who assisted in selecting the best-fitting equipment.

pool practice

Our group was small - myself and a doting dad with his daughter who was just 10 years old! We did a series of exercises in the pool, mainly to get acquainted with the equipment and the underwater sign lingo that divers use. Then it was over to the boat and out to sea for our 40-foot dive. A treat along the way is that you will have a clear view of Saint Lucia’s beautiful landscape from the sea. Plus, provided the weather is good, a soothing boat ride will calm your nerves in the event you are secretly masking diving heebie-jeebies!

diViNg the depths

Once we reached Anse Cochon on the west coast, we were restrapped to our tanks and slid on our goggles and fins before stepping out from the boat into the ocean. I can’t say it wasn’t intimidating, but once you’re in, you’re in! You’re offered two dives with Dive Saint Lucia, each of about forty-five minutes or until your tank reaches the air mimimum allowed by the Dive Saint Lucia team. While descending deeper into the ocean, it’s not uncommon for the increasing distance from the sea’s surface, and the sharp aches in the ears as they respond to the changing pressure, to invite panic. But a simple deep breath will suffice, as

it did for me! You remind yourself that you’ve been prepped for this, and the steps to alleviate your worry come floating back to you! You’re smooth-sailing from there - underwater that is! Lennon’s calm disposition and steely confidence makes it easy for you to trust his guidance and, before you know it, you’ll be interacting with schools of fish, colourful coral and other slithery sea creatures alive and well in their own element. No worries if the first time around you weren’t quite “smooth”; Dive Saint Lucia offers lunch onboard its sea vessel, then you get the chance to do it all over again! It turned out to be a great day for all, especially my 10-year-old dive buddy who even completed her second dive without her supportive dad by her side! Contact Dive Saint Lucia Tel. (758) 451-DIVE(3483) Email: info@divesaintlucia.com

Photos by Dawn Shewan at Dive Saint Lucia

hERMit CRaB

MORAY EEL

17


Tours ~ By Sea BOAT RIDES ARE FOR

tour optioNs

eVeryBody!

At Tropical Traveller we are always happy to recommend a boat ride as there is a vessel and an itinerary to please everybody: full day, half day, sunset cruise, private charter; catamaran and sailing boat; for youngsters through to oldies; for the mobile and the less abled. TT joined a group on board Sunkist, a catamaran in the Endless Summer Cruises fleet, to experience a few glorious hours on the ocean wave.

W

e were a motley crowd: a British couple with their (cute!) six-monthold daughter, a dozen school-age children of various nationalities, some serious party people in their twenties who were down from the States, a Canadian honeymoon couple, some “more mature” folk and a lady who was celebrating her 80th birthday. Captain Dalton and his crew welcomed everyone as if they were old friends. On land, Saint Lucia’s roads are not always the best, and potholes can lead to accidents, but on the boat your safety is paramount. Every welcome speech includes directions for where to find, and how to use, the life vests. That and the choice of beverages declared, it’s time to cast off those ropes and set sail!

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

At Endless Summer Cruises the aim is to make you happy! Their regular full day tours down the west coast include cruising into Marigot Bay, a visit to the Toraille waterfall, then on to the volcano or to the mud baths, a tour of an estate, and lunch. You will have wonderful photo opportunities, especially of the Pitons. On the way back there is also a stop for swimming and snorkeling. Another option on the organised tours is the Land and Sea day trip. After driving down to Soufriere and seeing the sights along the way, the catamaran meets you at the dock and ferries you back north. On board there is complimentary rum punch, beer, soft drinks and drinking water. And music - cue dance moves from the party crowd! The cost includes transfers to and from any accommodation in the north of the island as well as admission fees. Elisabeth from Canada, one of the passengers on Sunkist, summed up her day for us: “I loved being out on the water and we packed so much into one day. This was my number one trip.”

priVate charters

The largest catamaran can accommodate 80 people although Endless Summer Cruises caters for any size group. “We do what you want to do,” is their attitude, whether it’s a private charter for a business group or a wedding party. The company can arrange lunch or you can do your own thing; the choice is yours.

if you’re lucky . . .

Endless Summer Cruises The company was founded almost 30 years ago and was a trendsetter, being the first in Saint Lucia to offer day tours on a catamaran which, due to its design, can venture into shallow waters, within yards of the beach. Contact Tel: (758) 450 8651 www.stluciaboattours.com See advertisement opposite.

The crew have fishing lines at the back of the catamaran. Often they will catch a fish or two. On our day out it was two good-sized dorado. Watching them being reeled in had everybody in awe. Somebody that night was going to have a tasty supper of fresh fish! Sometimes schools of dolphin will swim alongside the boat. It’s pure joy watching them speed along just below the surface, even jumping out of the water - for their entertainment and ours. And you might even be lucky enough to spot a turtle.


DAY TOURS TO SEE THE BEST EXPERIENCES IN ST. LUCIA WE VISIT: Volcano • Mudbaths Estate Tour • Waterfall Marigot Bay • Snorkelling

INCL TRA UDES ENTRANSFERS, N JUICE CE FEES, DRINK,SSOFT PUNC , RUM MIXERSH, RUM, , EERS & LUNB CH

Tell us your dreams, we’ll make them happen... Let us custom design a tour onboard our sister luxury yacht for a smaller more intimate experience

FOR INFORMATION ON OUR TOURS CALL OR CHECK OUR WEBSITE:

Tel (758) 450 8651 www.stluciaboattours.com AVAILABLE FOR WEDDINGS, CRUISES & SUNSETS FOR SMALL OR LARGE GROUPS 19


Tours ~ By Land like fuel, relaxing us and keeping us going. Near the peak we saw a tree towering over all others. Known as the 'Gommier', this giant grows up to 200 ft (60 m) and is the tallest type of tree on-island. Centuries ago it was used by Caribs and Arawaks to make canoes.

RAINFOREST ADVENTURES

JacQuot trail hike

Deep in the community of Chassin in the district of Babonneau is an escape into one of nature's best offerings: the rainforest. in the roughly 3,000-acre forest you can find many of the island's endemic birds and animals plus interesting and beautiful trees and plants.

A

After some 90 minutes we finally made it to the top! At 1,400 ft (427 m) we took a refreshing water break and breather while feasting on the breathtaking panoramic view. On clear days one can see the neighbouring island of Martinique and, at 3,117 ft (950 m), Saint Lucia's tallest mountain, Mount Gimie.

what goes up . . . t Rainforest Adventures, knowledgeable guides introduce you to the lush and peaceful forest via aerial tram, zip lines or on foot. TT decided to try the latter.

Best foot forward The roughly 3-hour Jaquot Trail Hike is the perfect way to see the minutiae of the rainforest. The most challenging part of the hike, which does require some stamina, is the steep incline but it didn't take long for the 'wow' moments to start. Just a minute into the trail we encountered a giant ficus tree. Our guide explained that in the early stages of the tree's life, it wraps itself around a host tree, eventually killing the host. Jesse’s insightful lesson was interrupted by a medium-sized crab making its way down the trail. Determined to get to its destination, it gently tapped on the guide’s foot, cautioning him to get out of the way.

Saint Lucian Oriole, Pewee, Warbler and Black Finch who share the habitat with other animals like mongooses, lizards, tarantulas and even snakes! Our guide, in between giving out birdcalls, assured us that the snakes are shy and well-concealed. Conditions underfoot became wetter as we ascended, due to the increased rainfall at height. But apart from the trees, one constant throughout the rainforest is the birds’ melodious chirping; their tune acted

Ascent As we hiked higher, the chirping of birds grew louder. The rainforest is home to the

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at the top!

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

Descending was easier and the sights and views were equally amazing. Our reward at the end of the trail was a soothing stroll through Hummingbird Garden where dozens of these delightful little creatures were feeding on seeds, and the sweet aroma of plants and flowers perfumed the air. This was the icing on the cake! Pictures surely don’t do this beautiful forest justice!

Contact Rainforest Adventures Tel. (758) 458 5151 www.rainforestadventure.com See advertisement opposite.


ZIPLINE

AERIAL TRAM

ADRENALINE ZIP LINE | AERIAL TRAM | ULTIMATE THREE | BIRD WATCHING | JACQUOT TRAIL

REAL NATURE, REAL FUN for bookings call: (758) 458-5151

www.rainforestadventure.com 21


Art Scene

adJani John

CHAMPIONING LOCAL ART

mecurator art gallery The Curator

One of the challenges for aspiring artists anywhere in the world is how to make the public aware of their work. Saint Lucia has several galleries; TT visited the latest space dedicated to art: the MeCurator gallery within the Star Publishing building at Massade, Gros Islet.

Championing the cause for local artists, both established and those emerging on the scene, is Buki Cahane, founder of MeCurator. She obtained her degree in History of Art in London, UK, moved to the Caribbean and made her way to Saint Lucia. Impressed by the talent on the local art scene here but disappointed by the lack of exposure for some artists, Buki resolved to assist them.

the artists are not yet at their zenith, but do not let this distract you from their talent. A recent MeCurator exhibition featured pieces by Adjani John, GilroyH and Junette Alexander; you may not know their names but the aim is for them to become recognized in their field.

The Artists Buki likes to focus on upand-coming Saint Lucian artists, and to connect them with an audience who will appreciate and buy their work. Prices are reasonable, reflecting that

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GiLROY HippOLYTE

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

JUNETTE ALEXANDER

the VeNue

Buki has presented exhibitions at hotels and venues around the island but the gallery at Star Publishing is long-term. The opening show was held on 21st June, 2018 and featured the work of 16 artists. It was colourful, inspirational and successful, ensuring that the contributors have the financial and promotional support to continue doing what they love best: paint. Said Buki on the opening night, “I think for me the outpouring of support just shows you how there’s a great eagerness for the arts in Saint Lucia. There’s a real sense that people want to partake and be part of the scene. Also for the artists, now that there’s a space, they feel quite prompted to paint and to create.” The gallery is open Monday to Friday 9 am-3 pm and by appointment. Works can also be viewed and purchased online. Contact Buki R Cahane Art Curator Founder of MeCurator Website: www.mecurator.com Instagram: MeCurator Facebook: MeCurator Tel. (758) 722 8303


DISCOVE R

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PICK UP A BROCHURE AT YOUR HOTEL OR VISIT STLUCIA.ORG 23


Folk Tales

COMPERE LAPIN

pays a price

C

ompere Lapin did not like gossip. He was always annoyed with his friends whenever he found them discussing other people’s affairs; matters that were none of his friends’ business. One day he talked to God: “Mr. God, all these animals always be talking about one another’s business. I would like to ask you a favour in helping me teach them a lesson. Every time they does talk about someone else, let them fall unconscious for one hour.” God agreed and the next

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day Compere Lapin set out to instruct the others in the wrongs of gossiping. He filled a basket with yams, lettuce, cabbage, potatoes, dasheen, plants and seeds. He set out for a rocky piece of land and began digging into the ground, pretending to start a garden. Minutes later Compere Tigre passed by and, just as Lapin had planned, Tigre was astonished to find the rabbit planting a garden in such a rocky place. He enquired, “Compere Lapin, what are you doing here? “Lapin blithely answered, “Well Compere, I low on food

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

so I planting me a garden.” Tigre began his response: “You mean you think you go get food out of this rock? Compere must be going ma-a-a . . .” Before he could finish, he fell to the ground unconscious. Compere Lapin pulled Tigre’s body into the full sun and sat down to relax for an hour. When Compere Tigre awoke, he was sore all over due to the intense sun; his fur was even singed. He sat up and demanded: “Compere Lapin, what happened to me?” “Well Compere, let that be a lesson on minding your

Jacintha Lee's beautifully illustrated book is available from Amazon or locally at Saint Lucia Books located in the Valmont Building on Laborie Street in Castries.

Illustrations by: Ted M Sandiford

own business and, if you tell anybody else, then the same going to happen to you again.” Compere Tigre agreed and slowly sulked towards his home. Every day Compere Lapin continued his game with all the animals. He did not notice Compere Pigeon high in the trees, watching all along. Finally Pigeon decided that Lapin had carried his evilness far enough. He put a towel on his back and passed near to Compere Lapin. His only words were, “Good morning, Compere.” This puzzled Lapin and he prompted Pigeon: “Morning Compere Pigeon. You see I planting a garden here so I can get me some food.” “Work away, Compere Lapin. I going to get me a bath and a trim,” Pigeon nonchalantly babbled as he strolled off. Compere Lapin, amazed that Compere Pigeon had taken no further notice of him, sourly muttered to himself, “Ah, ah, Pigeon really fresh, you know. What hair he have to trim anyway? His head be looking like . . .” Before he could finish, Compere Lapin fell to the ground unconscious. Compere Pigeon looked back over his shoulder and chuckled, “You, Compere, must learn to do unto others as you want them be doing to you.”


HOME TO

Batik studio and duty free gift shop

Live demonstrations of vibrant art including hand-painted batik, artisanal chocolate making, and agro-processing of virgin coconut oil. Reserve your spot for the hand-crafted chocolate hosted by our local chocolatier

class

PLEASE BOOK DIRECTLY BY CALLING TEL: 452 3785 Book at your hotels tour desk or direct from our facebook page: www.facebook.com/HoweltonEstate/ Old Victoria Road, Morne Fortune Castries, Saint Lucia

Opening Hours: Mon to Sat: 9am to 3pm

Sun: closed

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Drinks

Whether you are a visitor or a local, what better way to pass an hour or two than with a friend and a refreshing drink? And it's a bonus when you don't pay full price! Tropical Traveller has done the legwork in compiling this guide to some of the bars and restaurants in and around Rodney Bay that offer Happy Hour deals. So choose your spot, place your order and enjoy!

happy hour guide RODNEY BAY SPinnAKERS 5-6 pm seven days a week 2 for 1 on alcoholic cocktails, wines by the glass, house spirits; $1 off all beers (bottled and draft).

RODNEY BAY MARINA

COCOnutz Daily specials as advertised (closed Monday) 5 pm-until, Tuesday 2 for 1 on mixed drinks.

bOARdWALK 5-6 pm seven days a week Discounts on cocktails, beers, spirits, wines by the glass.

JAm ROCK 4-6 pm Sunday-Thursday Daily specials.

RituALS SuSHi 5-6.30 pm (closed Monday) Discounts on beers, rum punch, house wines by the glass.

KEEbEES 4-7 pm (closed Monday) 2 for 1 on cocktails (including virgin); $1 off beers, wines and spirits. COCKPit bAR 5-6 pm Friday and Saturday 2 for 1 on full bar list (includes beers, wines by the glass, liquors and liqueurs, tea, coffee, juices). Free bar snacks.

mAttHEWS 12-6 pm Monday-Saturday 4-6 pm Sunday 2 for 1 on selected cocktails 4-6 pm Friday 2 for 1 on selected bottled beers and shandy.

bAY GARdEnS HOtEL CinnAmOn bAR 12-2 pm and 5-7 pm (closed Thursday evening) Discounts on cocktails, beers, wines by the glass, house spirits.

tAPAS On tHE bAY 4-6 pm (closed Tuesday) 2 for 1 on beers, house spirits, house wines by the glass. Special snack menu served during Happy Hour.

ROYAL bY REx RESORtS 5-6 pm Pool Bar 6-7 pm Mistral Bar 2 for 1 on cocktails.

buzz 6.30-7.30 pm (closed Monday) 2 for 1 on house cocktails (excluding martinis and margaritas), house wines, beers, soft drinks.

bAY GARdEnS bEACH RESORt Pebbles beach bar (at hi tide restaurant) 5.30-6.30 pm (closed Wednesday) Discounts on cocktails (including virgin), beers and ciders, wines by the glass, house spirits.

RAzmAtAz 5-7 pm (closed Tuesday) 2 for 1 on cocktails, wines by the glass, spirits; $2 off beers. Special bar snacks served during Happy Hour.

sand beach bar 12-2 pm seven days a week Discounts on selected cocktails, selected house spirits, draft beers, house wines by the glass.

WindJAmmER LAndinG ViLLA bEACH RESORt Jammers bar 5 - 6 pm seven days a week 50% off drinks bill (excluding bottled wines). tREASuRE bAY CASinO 5-11 pm every night with ‘Thirsty Thursday’ extended hours: 11 am – 1 am (14 hours!) Half price on all drinks. Tuesday is ‘Ladies Night’ with a free cocktail on arrival for the girls.

bOSunS 5-7 pm seven days a week 2 for 1 on house spirits; discounts on beers, house wines by the glass, cocktails.

CAP ESTATE SAndALS CAP EStAtE GOLF & COuntRY CLub 4-6 pm seven days a week 2 for 1 on most drinks. tHE LAndinGS RESORt turquoise beach bar 5.30 - 6.30 pm Saturday - Thursday (live Country and Western music on Wednesday). 5.30 - 8 pm Friday (live music) 50% off drinks bill (excluding bottled wines).

TT staff have spent many happy hours researching this guide. The information is accurate for 2018 although bars reserve the right to amend (and extend!) their Happy Hour deals. Wherever you go, you will be assured of a warm welcome, especially when you mention that you read this feature in TT.

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rodNey Bay A

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treasure bay casino coco Palm resort bonne baguette bakery drive-a-matic car rental

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iGY rodney bay marina

iGY, elena’s, bosun’s bistro, café olé, crave restaurant

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bay Gardens beach resort splash island Water Park sea island cotton shop

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RODNEY BAY rodney bay is the main tourist area with accommodation options, plenty of bars and restaurants, and a pulsating nightlife. the beautiful beach has chairs and parasols for rental, and watersports. baywalk Mall and JQ Rodney Bay Mall offer shops, supermarkets, dining and treasure bay casino. Vendors selling hand-crafted wares, fruits and local snacks can be found on the beach and at roadside stalls. iGY rodney bay marina is the island’s main anchorage for sailors. the complex includes a boardwalk, bars, restaurants and shops. to the north is the town of Gros islet, famous for its Friday night ‘jump-up’ street party. Pigeon island, linked to the mainland by a man-made causeway, is accessible by road and water taxi. it has beaches, trails, stunning viewpoints, historical ruins, and a couple of bars/restaurants. both the english and French stationed their military forces on the island - saint lucia changed hands between these countries’ rule 14 times. Pigeon island is a 44-acre national landmark administered by the saint lucia national trust. there is an admission charge by day. an 18-hole golf course is located to the north, on cap estate.

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BEACHES 1. Smugglers Cove 2. Pigeon Island 3. Pigeon Point 4. Reduit Beach 5. Labrelotte Bay 6. Choc Bay 7. Vigie Beach 8. La Toc Bay 9. Marigot Bay 10. Anse Cochon 11. Anse Mamin 12. Anse Chastanet

SOUFRIÈRE 13

VIEUX FORT

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Sulphur Springs Park and Volcano LADERA RESORT

Petit Piton 14

Gros Piton 15

LABORIE

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Area: 238 sq. miles Size: Approx. 27 miles long, 14 miles wide Castries co-ordinates: 14.01˚ north, 60.98˚ east Sunrise: 21 June 5.37 a.m., 21 Dec. 6.23 a.m. Sunset: 21 June 6.34 p.m., 21 Dec. 5.41 p.m. Castries maximum daytime temperature: 28˚C/82F winter, 31˚C/88F summer Castries minimum nighttime temperature: 22˚C/72F winter, 26˚C/79F summer Castries annual rainfall: 2035mm/80 inches main rainfall June - November Average sea temperature: 27˚C/81F winter, 29˚C/84F summer Highest Point: Mount Gimie (950m/3,117ft) Population: Approx. 185,000 Language: English, local French-based Creole dialect (Kwéyòl) Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (US$1 = EC$2.67

CHOISEUL

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13. Malgretoute 14. Anse des Pitons 15. Anse l’Ivrogne 16. Black Bay 17. Anse des Sables 18. Anse Louvet 19. Grand Anse 20. Anse Lavoutte 21. Cas en Bas 22. Secret Beach 23. Donkey Beach

Savannes Bay

MICOUD

Maria Islands

HEWANORRA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 17

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The cerulean blue background represents fidelity and reflects the colour of the sky and our surrounding waters. the gold is a sign of prosperity and a reminder of the sunshine. the black and white refer to the different races, unified. The three triangles in the centre symbolize the three pitons on the island. the isosceles triangle is similar to the shape of the famous twin Pitons at soufrière; pointing skywards it stands for the hope and aspirations of the people.

Designed by Dunstan St. Omer. Adopted 1st March 1967.

FLAG OF SAINT LUCIA

Moule à Chique Lighthouse

Moule à Chique

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Town/Village Beach Historical Nature Airport Marina Ferry Terminal Shopping

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • MAY/JUN/JUL 2018

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See detailed maps of Rodney Bay on page 27 and of Castries on page 30.

pull-out maps of saiNt lucia

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Cas en Bas

IGY Rodney Bay Marina

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Fond d’Or Bay

DENNERY

Frégate Islands Praslin Bay

RAINFOREST ADVENTURES/SKY RIDES

Chassin

Babonneau

BAY GARDENS RESORT & SPLASH ISLAND

GROS ISLET Rodney Bay

Choc Bay 7

Vigie Lighthouse

RAINFOREST

Morne Fortune La Place Carenage

GEORGE F.L. CHARLES AIRPORTPointe Seraphine

Inside front cover, pg 1, back cover

Pg 3 Pg 5

Pg 7

Pg 19

Pg 21

Pg 23

Pg 25

Pg 33

Pg 35

Pg 49

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CANARIES Pg 51

Inside back cover

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Mount Gimie Diamond Botanical Gardens and Waterfall

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castries 1

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harry edwards Jewelers eFFY Kenty’s tourist information castries cathedral (minor basilica of the immaculate conception)

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CASTRIES Castries is the capital of Saint Lucia. This compact city offers duty free shopping opportunities at la Place carenage and Pointe seraphine, either side of the harbour. the walk between the two takes approximately 20 minutes, or you can take the ferry service. near the waterfront are the two markets and in the city centre is blue coral mall. the city’s oasis is derek Walcott square, named after the poet/playwright, one of two saint lucian nobel laureates, the other being the economist sir arthur lewis. note the colonial-style architecture of the library. the cathedral features interesting stained glass. serendipity Park near Pointe seraphine is also a haven. the local airport serving smaller craft is at Vigie, just north of castries and opposite a beach. nearby are historical military ruins and a lighthouse. la toc battery, an old fort, is on the other side of town, on morne Fortune. there is a museum at Government house, a beautiful Victorian edifice overlooking Castries. It is the residence of the Governor General, the representative of her majesty queen elizabeth ii who remains head of state. saint lucia gained independence on 22nd February, 1979 and is part of the british commonwealth.

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


Village

BaBoNNeau

PLACES OF INTEREST

Babonneau is in the centre of the island, to the east of Castries, on the edge of the Castries Waterworks Forest reserve.

The Church of the Good Shepherd in Babonneau is central to the community and occupies a beautiful edifice built in 1947. Inside is a mural painted by Sir Dunstan St. Omer, the renowned Saint Lucian artist who designed our country’s flag.

To get a taste of Saint Lucian culture, Fond Latisab Creole Park, also in Chassin, is the place to be. There you can experience traditional village local life, from making cassava bread to wood-sawing and folk dancing. Contact Heritage Tours.

INTERESTING FACTS

Making your way to Grand Anse beach on the east coast (and at exactly 14 degrees north) is a challenge but well worth it! The road to this beach can be traversed in a 4x4 or you can decide to lace up your sneakers and walk it. From May to September you can take part in an incredible turtle watch. It involves overnight camping, with tour guides sounding the alarm when the 2,000 lb leatherbacks are spotted on shore. Contact Heritage Tours (see below).

Babonneau is the only district in Saint Lucia that links you to both the north and south of the island though numerous roads and back-roads. The district was once home to numerous estates but many were destroyed during the French Revolution. Gaspard Tascher de la Pagerie owned an estate in the community of Paix Bouche. In 1763 his wife gave birth to their daughter, MarieJoseph Rose, who would later marry the French military leader Napoleon Bonaparte.

The Name Babonneau is a hilly district. It comprises some 15 smaller communities, making it the second largest district on-island. There are two beliefs regarding the origin of the name: one, that it comes from a family named Babonneau who owned land in the area; the other, that it is translated from the French ‘barre-bonne-eau’ which means ‘the ridge where there is good water’. The district is certainly home to many rivers and is one of the island's most important water catchment areas.

Livelihoods Babonneau is as an agricultural district with a variety of crops including a wide range of vegetables and fruits. There is no market but produce can be bought directly from individuals. The district has an abundance of trees and many residents produce coal. Poultry farming is practised as well.

Rainforest Adventures is in Chassin. View the rainforest during a leisurely ride in an aerial tram or experience the thrill of zip lining between the trees. Follow a hiking trail up to 1,400 ft (see our article on page 20) and try to spot five of our island’s endemic birds. Contact Rainforest Adventures.

Saint Lucian high jumper, Levern Spencer, who won a gold medal at the 2018 Commonwealth Games, was born in Cacao, Babonneau on 23rd June, 1984. Contacts: Heritage Tours: tel. (758) 458 1454, www.heritagetoursstlucia.org Rainforest Adventures: tel. (758) 458 5151, www.rainforestadventure.com (See advertisement on page 21.)

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Shopping

WHAt to BUY You have soaked up the atmosphere and want to take home a flavour of Saint Lucia that will remind you of all the good times. Here are TT’s suggestions.

JEWELLERY

Saint Lucia has a good selection of jewellery stores offering duty free prices to travellers who will be leaving the island. Effy at the Pointe Seraphine Duty Free Shopping Complex has a wonderful array of gold, silver, diamonds and other precious gemstones, for men and women. Effy #14, pointe Seraphine, Castries, tel. (758) 452 3339 (see advertisement on

CREOLE ‘COUTURE’

BIRD FEEDERS Effy Jewellry www.effyjewelry.com

Every fashion lover will adore these dolls dressed in ‘Madras’, one of two traditional forms of ladies’ national wear (read more on page 40). Available at Sea island Cotton Shop, Baywalk Shopping Mall, Rodney Bay (see advertisement on opposite page).

support local vendors by purchasing a hand-made bird feeder. easily disassembled for the journey back home, the birds will be flocking to your garden. it will be a constant reminder of our island, and all the neighbours will want one!

SPICED RUM

Given that we celebrate Creole month in October, we recommend that you treat yourself to some Kweyol (patois for Creole) spiced rum. This award-winning beverage combines local spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla. There is even a vanilla pod inside the bottle to impart a rounded, mellow flavour. Available in supermarkets, liquor stores and from St. Lucia Distillers: www.saintluciarums.com

SHOES

One can never have enough pairs of shoes! Sea Island Cotton Shop has a new range of Ipanema sandals for ladies and children. For the gents, there is a selection from Reef. Happy feet! Visit Sea island Cotton Shop in Baywalk Mall, Rodney Bay

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


THEBIGGEST SOUVENIRSHOP

BAYWALK SHOPPING MALL

RODNEY BAY ST LUCIA

SOUVENIRS

INST.LUCIA

|

EDIBLES

|

T SHIRTS

|

RESORT WEAR

OPENING HOURS:

Monday - Saturday 9am - 8pm | Sunday & Holidays 9am - 2pm Tel: 458-4220 | www.seaislandstlucia.com Remember to walk with your travel itinerary and photo ID for DUTY FREE shopping

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Local Style

kweyol sNacks Lucians love to eat! And between meals we like to snack! Here are some of our local treats that we like to nibble on when we are feeling peckish or just in the mood for something that tastes good.

COCOA TEA

this is our caribbean version of a hot chocolate drink. it is almost never, ever served without hot bakes. although it’s a favourite drink for a weekend breakfast or on overcast, stormy days, all local breakfast vendors sell it daily. it’s made with grated cocoa from locally made cocoa sticks and is boiled with cinnamon bark, nutmeg and star anise. Sometimes flour and arrowroot (toloma) is used to thicken the beverage.

local fudge

Our fudge is basically like the sugar candy you’d buy in any other country but here in Saint Lucia you’re likely to find the flavouring enhanced with ginger or coconut. Usually we don’t include corn syrup and cream but stick to local ingredients. It’s less sweet and has a surprising twist.

Tamarind Balls Every kid spends their school allowance on this delicious snack. It’s simply dried tamarind stripped from its shell and strings that’s then been rolled with sugar (some have extra ingredients) into a ball. When done right it’s tangy and sweet in equal parts.

cocoNut Balls

These come in bright colours and look more like decorations than food. They’re actually hardly anything more than dry, grated coconut with a bit of food colouring.

guaVa cheese

For a small snack, this takes some effort to make, hence why it’s harder to find and a bit pricey. But it’s worth the preparation because you experience a delicious ‘pop’ of guava when you eat it. The name? Well, the only relation to cheese is that the sticky food is cut into small blocks. If you can’t get it from a street vendor, you can easily get it at a supermarket.

Diabetics should check about the above-mentioned foods affecting their system.

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


The best local cuisine

IN THE HEART OF GROS ISLET

Great atmosphere, Friendly Staff, Tasteful and plentiful Food.

GOLDEN TASTE BY NAME AND BY NATURE!

Indulge

in a different lunchtime special everyday as well as a set menu.In the evening choose from the A La Carte menu or just chill by the bar. No tax added. Tipping is allowed

Tel. 1.758.450.9792 Mobile. 1.758.715.8045 / 519.1322 Opening hours Daily from lunch till late. Closed at 5pm on Thursdays. We cater for all occasions. 35


Restaurant Recommendations

ALL DAY BREAKFASt

dockside piZZeria

LUNCH

AT HARBOR CLUB

BoNNe Baguette CAFE/BISTRO FRANCAIS

Saint Lucia has come a long way since the island had only one pizza ‘joint’; now we are spoilt for choice! The latest addition is Dockside Pizzeria at the stylish Harbor Club next to Rodney Bay Marina.

the food

Whether sweet or savoury, a bite or a full meal, breakfasts at Bonne Baguette in Rodney Bay are tasty and wholesome, with a delightful French twist.

B

onne Baguette opened six years ago and has many regular customers including visitors from Martinique in search of true French taste. Riquette Bonne, the owner of this traditional French-style bakery, offers pastries, cakes, breads, quiches, omelettes, salads, sandwiches and meals that certainly deliver a touch of ‘Ooh la la’!

Fresh and wholesome All the artisan breads, pastries and cakes are made at the cafe’s own bakery. The products have no preservatives, chemical additives or colouring. All sandwiches, salads and meals are freshly made to the customer’s specific requirements. Says Riquette, “I love beautiful food and, if I won’t eat it, then I won’t serve it. I love to see people enjoy what they’re eating; we do food that will bring pleasure and is wholesome.”

from a sNack to a meal

B

efore we get down to the pizzas, let’s talk about the location of Dockside Pizzeria which, in a symbol, is H2O! Situated outdoors, with gigantic parasols for shade, on one side there is the lagoon of Rodney Bay Marina, with a glorious view of boats, Pigeon Island and Mount Pimard, while on the other are the beautifully designed pools of the resort. The view out to sea is westwards so early evening can also present some stunning sunsets. This is a superb spot to relax, soak up the chic atmosphere and admire the sights around you!

At any time of day, stop by for a Lavazza coffee, a tea or a cold beverage and indulge in a croissant (plain or with filling), a pain au chocolat, a muffin or a slice of cake (the coconut Mont Blanc is divine) or cheesecake. TT swears that if you close your eyes, you could imagine yourself at a pavement cafe in Paris. If you fancy something more filling, there are plenty of options, hot and cold, that can be tailor-made, or try the day’s ‘surprise’ readycooked meal. Vegetarians are particularly well-catered for. And if your thirst demands a beer or cider, Bonne Baguette has a selection of alcohol. Santé! Contact Bonne Baguette Open 7 days 8 am-6 pm. Tel. (758) 486 5871 Info@bonnebaguette.com

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

TT loves that everything at Dockside Pizzeria is handmade and prepared on site. The dough is made in Harbor Club’s own bakery (which also makes the divine pastries and breads for the resort’s 7th Heaven patisserie). The pizzas are cooked in a traditional stone, coal-fired oven housed in a gazebo just steps away from your table so you can watch your pizza being prepared and savour the aromas as it cooks. TT suggests a glass of vino or an ice-cold beer while you wait and soak up the al fresco vibe. Ahhh, la vita è bella! Fancy a little something before your pizza? The menu, compiled by Executive Chef Marco, features Italian small bites, baguettes and salads. Being from Italy, Chef Marco knows precisely how a true pizza should be made, and limits the toppings to cheeses, vegetables, meats and fish that his fellow countrymen would expect - no ‘innovative’, latest craze additions that would insult the Sicilian soul. Prepare yourself for something buona! Vegetarians have a good selection of pizzas from which to choose but the favourites of the TT staff are the Quattro Stagioni (Four Seasons) with roasted artichokes, Mediterranean olives, wild mushroom and roasted ham, and the Surf and Turf with Parma ham and Cajun shrimp. Delizioso! If you wish to round off the meal with homemade ice cream or dessert, simply ask the attentive staff what is available that day.

great Value

You might expect that the setting of Dockside Pizzeria, within a Hilton Curio Collection resort, could mean inflated prices but you would be wrong; not only are the prices comparable to other pizzerias, but Harbor Club is offering to residents of Saint Lucia 25% off food and beverage at this and other select dining areas at the resort. Bargain!

Contact theharborclub.com Tel. (758) 731 2900 Dockside Pizzeria is open 7 days a week from midday to 10pm.


DINNER

l’epicure

AT ROYAL ST. LUCIA RESORT & SPA At TT we consider it our duty to inform you of the best that Saint Lucia has to offer and to alert you to venues that might not be visible from the road. L’Epicure restaurant at Royal St. Lucia Resort & Spa in Rodney Bay is one such gem.

W

hile strolling along Reduit beach you may have admired L’Epicure restaurant, with its beachside setting, and wondered whether it is open only to resort guests. The good news is that Royal welcomes non-residents to all of its bars

and restaurants. L’Epicure is the most elegant seafront dining experience in Rodney Bay. Open air, but with a roof to protect against sun and showers, it offers a beautiful view of Pigeon Island across the waters of Rodney Bay. Courteous staff greet you and escort you through to your table. Spacious (so no cramped seating arrangements), and with polished glass and silverware, you know you are in for a memorable evening even before you examine the menu.

‘Dinner Influences’ The menu, designed by Executive Chef Eike Lauff, has a strong emphasis on Creole cuisine and the use of local produce. There are two barbecue buffets each week; other evenings offer a dinner special (see far right) in addition to the a la carte menu. There are only four starters on the menu but there was a pleasant surprise: before the chosen courses, the restaurant presented a complimentary soup; on the night that TT attended it was plaintain chowder with warm bread. An excellent start to dinner! Still, we

l’epicure daily themed diNNer specials could not resist an appetizer. Our verdict on the shrimp cocktail is that not only was presentation beautiful (and generous), but the accompanying spiced coconut sauce was a touch of Caribbean paradise. Lime sorbet then cleansed the palate for the next course. L’Epicure offers a superb selection of main plates including five dishes of local fish and seafood, plus options of chicken breast, pork cutlet and Angus sirloin beef pepperpot. TT can vouch for the superb quality and presentation. For vegetarians there is ground provision pie with cashew gratin, creamed spinach, sautéed black bean and the option of a fried egg. The inclusion of organic greens and local vegetables is commendable. The atmosphere at L’Epicure encourages diners to relax and enjoy the warm evening and company of friends, even the live music from the nearby bar. No hurry; no worry. After a pause and some wine, TT found room for dessert. The server explained the day’s freshly made choices and we plumped for the mango upside-down cake. We didn’t really have room left but it was worth the effort (and extra exercise the next day) to eat every morsel of this sweet, tropical delight. In summary, L’Epicure is an excellent restaurant in a picturesque setting, with delicious and beautifully presented food and attentive service.

Monday: Certified Angus Beef Tuesday: Local Fisherman’s Catch Wednesday: Western BBQ Thursday: Salsa Night Paella Special Friday: Certified Angus Beef Saturday: Creole BBQ Sunday: Traditional Italian Pasta

dress code

The resort requests that attire be in keeping with the smart-casual atmosphere of L’Epicure. Men are asked to wear collared shirts (short-sleeved is acceptable) and long trousers for dinner. Contact Tel. ‪(758) 457 3131‪ Email royal@candw.lc www.rex resorts.com Open for dinner ‪6pm - 10.30pm‪ The restaurant and adjoining terrace area are available for private dinners and receptions. See advertisement on page 13

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Entertainment

PRoFILE

maNmay la kay

LUCIAN SHAK-SHAK MUSIC Shak-shak is the indigenous folk music of Saint Lucia. A shak-shak is a percussion instrument and so we call the local groups who play this infectious music “shak-shak bands”. Manmay La Kay is one such group.

“C

harley”, as he is affectionately known, is one of the original members of Manmay La Kay, founded in 1971 in the village of Babonneau (see our article on this community on page 31). He turned 70 this summer. “When I was a boy the music was as much a part of the community as the people. There was music while the adults worked - when they were clearing land or when pulling logs; the men would heave the logs along in time to the beat of the drum. “Every other Sunday, in the afternoon, there would be a dance that all the children went to after they had finished their chores. Then, in the evening, it was the turn of the adults; they performed quadrille (Lucian Creole: kwadril) dances. There were four couples and each had to pay; that’s how the musicians made their money. But if someone made a mistake, they had to pay for all the couples; that’s why the dancers were accomplished. They had precision!”

Components of a shak-shak band The lead instrument in a Lucian shak-shak band is either a violin, an accordion or a

38

locally-made bamboo flute. There is an acoustic bass guitar and a banjo for rhythm. The Lucian shak-shak is made from a perforated, cylindrical tin, filled with a specific amount of arrowroot seeds to produce just the right tone. Locally-made drums, called “tam boo”, complete the ensemble although a cuatro (a ukulele-type instrument) can be added to the mix.

Spreading the music to the world Charley laments that the traditional folk music is not appreciated by many of today’s young islanders and he considers it his duty to maintain this part of our culture. The tunes, mainly created by Charley (who does not read music and is self-taught in harmonica, guitar, violin, banjo and keyboard), are based on French Creole music. The band has performed in many other islands, being particularly appreciated in the French ones, once securing a number one hit in Martinique. The band has won several local awards and, in 2008, the Spanish authorities invited the members to perform at Expo Zaragoza. The shak-shak music is certainly

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

popular with tourists. One of them was so enamoured that he enabled Manmay La Kay to play and teach at a fiddle festival in Port Townsend, Oregon, USA in 2014. “There were 60 participants at our workshops. When they played, I was in tears! This was so uplifting - to see our local music being appreciated out there in the big world,” beamed Charley. This led to the band being invited to participate in another festival in Wyoming the following year. Says Charley, “This music is our culture, our heritage; it belongs to all of us.”

hear maNmay la kay play

The band plays every Friday night at East Winds (tel. (758) 452 8212; see our article on page 46), every other Tuesday at Windjammer Villa Beach Resort (tel. (758) 456 9000) and every other Thursday at Bel Jou (tel. (758) 456 1801). You will be able to see them at various venues around the island during October when we celebrate Creole month. You can also see the band on YouTube in excerpts from a documentary about Lucian Kwadril music, The Folk Was In Me, by Nadge Frank Augustin. Manmay La Kay has produced four CDs, available from Charley, tel. (758) 487 8420, email: augustinjulian48@gmail.com


C A tALE oF

two musiciaNs

Memories of “Topical Tourist”, a regular visitor to the island who has had the privilege of playing with Manmay La Kay.

harley, catches my eye, indicates with his violin, and the shak-shak band slow down in unison; the Polka finishes. The guests clap appreciatively, not realising that they are witnessing an art form held only in the minds of men that will soon pass into folklore. To many guests, however, it is just another manager’s cocktail party, and there is rum, dancing and fire-eaters to follow. They start to drift away as we dust down our fiddles. Charley looks at them, smiles ruefully, and puts his head close to mine. “It was my 70th birthday last week,” he confides, with a sense of pride. Charley, like many Lucian musicians is humble; a retired Windward Island Gases worker and self-taught on violin. He and his band, Manmay La Kay, bring joy to many. Fiercely proud of what he does, he holds his

band together financially and musically as both business manager and leader. Over the years he has taught me the Creole music and style, often throwing a number at me “live” which I have never heard before and expecting me to pick it up and go with it. I frequently get chastised for getting it wrong; notewise the music is simple but the rhythms can be tricky . . . Charley is a mentor and friend. Making music with Lucians is special. Their musicality, humour and pragmatism shines, and the international language of music produces long-term friends. Charley gives me his latest CD - my homework for next time. “Watch the rhythms on track 3,” he says with a wicked smile as he leaves for his next gig, playing the Lucian national anthem at the Cultural Centre. Another great evening in Saint Lucia!

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Culture FLOWER FESTIVALS Saint Lucians celebrate two festivals named after flowers: the Rose (La Woz in the Kweyol dialect) on 30th August and the Marguerite (La Magawit) on 17th October, each with their own society.

SAINT LUCIAN

NatioNal dress The two dresses considered as national wear in Saint Lucia are the ‘Wob Dwiyet' and the National Dress (also known as the Madras or Jip). Both possess colour and elegance.

two low buns, or “pepper seeds” multiple small buns all over the head held by hairpins - and red lipstick and black shoes.

geNtlemeN

Men do not dress as extravagantly as the ladies but they take pride in sporting national wear of black trousers and a white shirt. The outfit is accessorized with a piece of Madras or red cloth either as a belt, tie, sash or waistcoat. Black shoes complete the look. The National Dress and matching male ensemble is the formal attire for quadrille dance performances.

The National Dress derives from the Wob Dwiyet, a grand, full dress that African slaves made, inspired by what their female plantation owners wore: la robe douillete.

ladies

Our National Dress consists of usually a white blouse - chimiz decolté (French chemise décolleté meaning a low-necked shirt) - and three layers of skirting. Notable features are red ribbon threaded into the lace hem of the undermost skirt – jip (French: la jupe) - and sometimes into the lace collar and sleeves of the blouse; and the bright, plaid fabric from which the topmost skirt is made, called Madras. The National Dress is topped off with an elaborate headpiece. A large square of Madras fabric is craftily folded and starched to create ‘peaks’. The number of peaks represents the woman’s romantic availability: one means the lady is single, two represents married status, three denotes a widow or divorcee and four indicates, “I accept everyone who tries!” Finally, the National Dress has a triangular scarf of satin fabric. It sits on the left shoulder, so that the apex falls over the left elbow, with the other corners tucked beneath the skirt’s waistline. The costume is usually worn with a hairstyle of

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

origiNs

The societies and festivals originated centuries ago, in the time of slavery. They have evolved into two friendly rival camps celebrating our history and culture but hostility was once rife, and the church disapproved. Nowadays the festivals include a church service before a street parade.

members of society such as judges, policemen, doctors, nurses and soldiers. Some members jokingly misbehave and are “dragged” before the judge for a comical mock trial; some feign illness so that they can receive “emergency treatment” from the doctor. After the parade, a grand fete is held with more singing, dancing, eating and drinking.

seaNces

For weeks prior to each festival, the members hold seances which, in Saint Lucia, means night-time social events with traditional live music from a shak-shak band (see our feature on page 38). A ‘chatwel’ leads the singing and encourages praise of the society’s own flower: “Vive la Woz!”/“Vive la Magawit!” while making disparaging comments about the rival’s. A king and queen preside over events; followers pay them homage and raise money for the society and festival.

street processioNs

These are colourful events attended by smartly dressed adults and children in red, pink and white for the Rose festival and in blue and white for the Marguerite. The king and queen and their royal retinue appear in regalia topped with a crown while others masquerade as (or may even truly be!) respected

the duchess of sussex

When Prince Harry wed Meghan Markle on 19th May, 2018 her five-meter long silk tulle veil was trimmed with hand-embroidered flowers representing all 53 nations of the Commonwealth, of which Saint Lucia is a member. So which flower did she choose - rose or marguerite? According to a press release from Buckingham Palace, both flowers were worked into the design.


The Saint Lucia Animal Protection Society this year celebrates 20 years of hard work, but many success stories.

The organisation is dedicated to assisting animals who are abandoned, orphaned, malnourished or ill and arranges spay and neuter clinics, as funds permit. A major achievement is the adoption of Saint Lucian puppies and dogs in Canada, the US and Europe. Many of the lucky canines who find ‘forever’ homes overseas are flown into Toronto (YYZ). SLAPS has the pet carriers but needs passengers to act as chaperones. Please contact us if you can be a ‘puppy porter’, or if you wish to donate food, money or time.

Tel. (758) 45-SLAPS (457 5277), Facebook: Slaps St Lucia, email: stluciaanimals@gmail.com

stluciaanimals.org

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History

A City’s Death by Fire After that hot gospeller has levelled all but the churched sky, I wrote the tale by tallow of a city's death by fire; Under a candle's eye, that smoked in tears, I Wanted to tell, in more than wax, of faiths that were snapped like wire. All day I walked abroad among the rubbled tales, Shocked at each wall that stood on the street like a liar; Loud was the bird-rocked sky, and all the clouds were bales Torn open by looting, and white, in spite of the fire. By the smoking sea, where Christ walked, I asked, why Should a man wax tears, when his wooden world fails? In town, leaves were paper, but the hills were a flock of faiths; To a boy who walked all day, each leaf was a green breath Rebuilding a love I thought was dead as nails, Blessing the death and the baptism by fire. Derek Walcott (1930-2017) Saint Lucian poet and Nobel laureate.

tHE GREAt FIRE oF

castries

Seventy years ago a fired-up coal iron was left unattended in the wooden confines of a tailor’s shop in Castries. Not much remained after the first embers evolved into a roaring blaze that would eventually devour acres. Later there was unsubstantiated talk that the tailor’s iron had been purposefully planted to torch the shop with insurance payout on his mind.

I

t was 8 p.m. on Saturday 19th June, 1948 when the initial alarm cry went out to emergency services but destiny would have its way. Due to a strong south-easterly wind, an illprepared fire brigade, an insufficient water supply and much timber construction, the flames were fanned along a vengeful course of destruction. Within hours, four-fifths of the town of Castries had been reduced to ashes. By the time a fire squad from a United States Air Force Base in Vieux Fort arrived and successfully put out the inferno, 809 families - 2,293 residents to be exact - were homeless.

42

Fortunately, no lives were lost. Destroyed were the government treasury, the court building, post office, printery, Carnegie Library and commercial buildings. One week after what early reports had referred to as “the greatest calamity to befall a colony of its size and resources in so short a time”, attempts to resume business began. The local government, along with administrators of neighbouring islands and far away countries, offered assistance. Those with the means started to rebuild

their homes. Some were rehoused; others found shelter wherever they could. It was not the first time fire had brought down Castries. There had been earlier fires in 1796, 1805, 1813 and 1927. Then there were the fires of 1951, 1959 and 1960. It’s the fire of 1948, however, that is most often cited by local historians and purveyors of local folklore, possibly because of the extent of damage it wreaked . . . or maybe for lack of reliable information about the earlier disasters.

Fortunately, no lives were lost. Destroyed were the government treasury, the court building, post office, printery, Carnegie Library and commercial buildings

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


The best beach bar and restaurant in St. Lucia by day and also the best on the beach for dinner!

OPEN EVERYDAY FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER.

HAPPY HOUR 5-6 DAILY

Available every evening our fabulous menu features such delicacies as Coconut Battered Shrimp, Fresh Lobster Thermidore, USDA Steaks, the freshest fish available prepared in at least a dozen different ways, Bouillabaisse or Seafood Platter.

Come and dine in our thatched deck just inches from the water’s edge. Listen to the music of the waves and relax with good food, good service and great prices!

RESERVATIONS - TEL: 452-8491

R E S TA U R A N T & B A R

UniqUely St. lUcian

Bananas, once the mainstay of the St. Lucian economy for decades…. Now a St. Lucian Legacy!!! Taste that legacy in our infused banana dishes and desserts created just for you. Enjoy our signature Banana Fig craft beer and Rum Bananne’. A Fine Casual dining experience with a barrel of local culture. Relax in our colourful recycled décor bar lounge.

Very reasonable pricing!!!

a picture perfect day in Saint Lucia

D

iscover the best kept secret in Saint Lucia and immerse yourself in true Caribbean luxury. East Winds is a breath taking Tropical Garden by the sea, planted on a sandy secluded storybook beach. Our Caribbean Hideaway is

the island’s original boutique resort featuring 30 cottage style suites tucked away amongst lush plants, trees and a kaleidoscope of colorful bird life. Guests at East Winds can expect personalized care, exclusive adventures and an all-inclusive service.

WE ALSO CATER TO ALL TYPES OF EVENTS Corporate Dinners, Birthdays, Weddings, Bridal and Baby Showers, Private Functions, etc. Like us on:

Tel: 450-7544

bananacountree/facebook

Mobile: 285 7544

RODNEY BAY STRIP

East Winds Resort Ltd | La Brelotte Bay | Gros Islet | St. Lucia, West Indies T: + 1 758 452 8212 | E: info@eastwinds.com

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News Bites

ANNIVERSARY MILEStoNE

C

saiNt lucia school of music

ongratulations to the SLSM which was founded 30 years ago in January 1988. This year the school has received a grant from the Windsong Foundation, a US-based philanthropic organisation. As a result, fifty at-risk youth have been granted a full tuition scholarship to attend intensive training in “The System of Youth Orchestras and Choirs”. The school would like to extend the project so, if you can donate money or instruments, please telephone (758) 452 2473 / 285 2936 or email lcmusicschool@candw.lc

resorts harBor cluB

this luxury hotel at rodney bay marina is now a part of the curio collection by hilton. hilton honors, the award-winning guest-loyalty programme for hilton's 14 distinct hotel brands, enables members who book directly to have access to instant benefits including a flexible payment slider that allows members to choose nearly any combination of Points and money to book a stay, an exclusive member discount, free standard Wi-Fi and access to the hilton honors mobile app. www.curiocollection3.hilton.com www.theharborclub.com

Bay gardeNs mariNa haVeN

The resort formerly known as Palm Haven has been purchased and transformed by Bay Gardens Beach Resorts. Located opposite Rodney Bay marina, it will be convenient accommodation for those who come to Saint Lucia to meet up with friends and family who sail in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC). www.baygardensresorts.com

retailers massy stores

Saint Lucia has not progressed far down the road to being “green” but is making steps in the right direction: solar panels, a wind power farm, entrepreneurs who recycle and re-use plastics. In June, Massy Stores, the island’s biggest supermarket chain, abandoned the general practice of free plastic carrier bags (called “nylons” in Saint Lucia). Durable eye-catching bags can now be purchased in their stores.

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T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018


begins at

Pigeon Island

National Landmark

Like us on FACEBOOK

Contact us today: weddings@slunatrust.org (758) 452-5005 / 453-1495 www.slunatrust.org

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Resort Review

east wiNds East Winds, an authentic luxury boutique resort bordering Labrelotte Bay in the north of the island, is all-inclusive but the good news is that those not staying there are still welcomed and treated like guests. Whether for a causal lunch, a special dinner or the entire daylight hours, this is a charming oasis where you will feel at one with nature.

E

ast Winds occupies twelve acres, only four of which are developed. With just thirty cottages, the beautiful tropical gardens take centre stage - a horticulturalist’s delight; a colourful, tranquil setting for you to relax and share time and space with the plants, trees and birds that are native to Saint Lucia. Take a walk through the gardens and learn about over 100 species of flora, some of which you will find elsewhere only in the rainforest; or sit in gazebos dotted throughout the garden and on the beach, listen to the birdsong and the sound of the waves, and savour a day in the Caribbean.

dining options for Non-residents

Amenities Day guests to East Winds can use the gym and pool, and take advantage of all non-motorized water sports: sailing (there are two qualified instructors), canoeing, kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkeling on the two nearby reefs. There is even a pedalo! Those who wish to simply lie on a sunbed will appreciate the beach and poolside drinks service. As well as walks independent or guided

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- through the officially registered tropical garden, there is a 1 km ‘Fit-Trail’ amid undeveloped gardens, with stopping stations where particular exercises, detailed on signposts, can be performed. The trail passes the ‘Banana Grove’ - a living museum with an example of all nineteen types of banana and plantain that are grown in the Caribbean.

Music The only Steinway piano in Saint Lucia is at East Winds. Carefully protected when not in use, the instrument is brought to life in the evening by the classical pianist. The resort is also proud to promote traditional Saint Lucian music: every Friday night a ‘shak-shak’ band plays local creole tunes at the Land and Sea Bar-B-Q. On Wednesdays a steel band sets up on the beach to entertain lunchtime diners.

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

The cuisine at East Winds is of the highest standard. The resort works closely with local suppliers and farmers to source fresh fish, vegetables and other locally-grown produce, thereby assisting the local economy. It also has its own kitchen garden growing vegetables, salad stuffs, herbs and spices, and guarantees that every meal incorporates an element of ‘garden to table’. With its beautiful beachfront restaurant, East Winds is ideal for a casual lunch. A day pass permits

entry in time for breakfast and includes lunch as well as afternoon tea. If a cottage is available, the resort will allow day guests use of a room. With a dinner pass you are welcome to ‘join the East Winds family’ and commence the evening with the champagne and cocktail social events held before dinner. There is live music every night; Wednesday and Saturday are ‘party nights’ with entertainment and dancing after the meal. East Winds Tel. (758) 452 8212 Email: info@eastwinds.com www.eastwinds.com


ADVERtoRIAL

DoS & DoN’tS oF

PROPERTY ACQUISITION By Heather Floissac of Belle Vue Properties Ltd.

Buying a home or making a land investment, especially one dedicated to becoming your home away from home, is packed with moments of total chaos - from finding the best Real Estate Agent who understands your needs, to ticking off all the major needs. Over the years, some hard hitting Dos and Don’ts have become relevant. See the top ones to watch out for when considering taking this journey.

gardening maintenance which appeals to large families or multiple couples. Ultimately, you can be in your villa and rent a portion too! Remember, hire a Property Manager to cater to your property needs while you are away.

do take advantage of condos

Especially for a home away from home, the added security features provided in the gated community with manned security personnel is a great option. Condos offer the best rental opportunities, cater to a wider consumer base: executives, couples or families, diplomats, etc and most in Saint Lucia are located in tourist-based communities like Rodney Bay, close to all amenities, beaches and nightlife.

DON’T don’t choose the first option. Shop around.

DO do choose a great Real Estate Agent

You want a home in the islands and have been there once, twice, maybe a few times. Knowing the lay of the land is great but having an expert who is familiar with the area will make the process a lot more seamless. Do your research and engage an Agent who is great at what he or she does.

do speak to a bank or lender

Many times the purchaser thinks that they have to choose the property first then seek financial advice on funding after. On the contrary, the prospective buyer should meet a Loans Officer for advice on what his budget is, then commence searching within that range. This allows for a more comfortable search and is highly recommended.

do make your expectations known

Ensure you share your full expectations when conducting site visits and keep notes. Remaining silent while viewing a home which doesn’t satisfy half your needs is a timewaster. Remember, a picture tells a thousand

words, but a real life visit can show the cracks and dents once you take a closer look.

do watch the neighbourhood Be neighbourly. Find out about the neighbours. Are they constantly throwing parties or do they prefer the tranquil nights? Asking around about the neighbourhood and doing your own private community checks will help you decide if you fit in or want to fit in to the lifestyle in that area. Rent a place in the area you like, to get a personal feel for the place before buying.

do invest in a professional inspection

You wouldn’t buy a car without going for a test drive, then why would you buy a house and not get it checked out? In some cases, the consumer buying decision may be based more on the physical appearance of the home and not what’s beneath the surface. A professional inspection will check for faults or defects and it is advisable to get a valuation done by a Quantity Surveyor. This will save you money and time.

do get all your needs satisfied

Eager to get on the property ladder? It is a buyer’s market indeed. Don’t get Villa giorgia sucked in by the hype, shop around Location: Cap Estate Size of Land: 43,037.28 sq ft and compare offers. 3 Double Bedrooms Quick sales persons 1 Single Bedroom / 3 Bathrooms may try to get you to Self contained Cottage make an offer which in Court Yard is supposedly time Sale price: US$650,000.00 bound. Although this is sometimes the truth, never rush into a deal you are not absolutely sure about. View more than one option and be settled in your final decision, not anxious. Additionally, since condos are great long- and short-term rentals, earn while you are away.

Have a checklist of what your new house should have and highlight what the deal breakers are. Do you intend on having overnight guests? Then maybe a one or two bedrooms may not work for you. Like swimming but the beaches get too crowded? Get a property with a private pool and don’t compromise on what you really want, to only have buyer’s remorse after. It’s your money, get what you want.

don’t shop without a plan

Seems like a common sense rule but sometimes, the best laid out plans are not utilised when shopping for property. Your plan should include a full budget – how much are you willing to spend? Is it realistic based on your wish list?

do treat investing like a business

Buying property is always a huge investment. Maybe your initial reason for making the purchase was to set up roots elsewhere, but nonetheless, this is really a business investment. When shopping around, be cautious of the area you make your purchase in and ask about resale value down the line. Villas rent well in the short term and require good housekeeping and

Belle Vue Properties Ltd Gate Park, Cap Estate P.O.Box 45, Castries, St Lucia Tel: (758) 450 -8909 Fax: (758) 450 -9930 Email: heather@bellevuepropertiesstlucia.com Website: www.belleheleneproperties.com Facebook.com/belleheleneproperties

47


Wellness

PLANtS IN oUR

creole cultural heritage For centuries certain plants, herbs, fruits and nuts have enhanced our daily living. Their use is part of our Creole heritage which we celebrate during the month of October. By Emanuel Alexander

CASSAVA, also called Manioc or Yuca (Manihot Esculenta) introduced to the island by the amerindians back in the 1500s, the grated cassava pulp of this tuberous plant is used to produce cassava flour, farine, bread and tapioca, even a laundry starch. interesting fact: a cyanide-producing sugar derivative occurs in varying amounts in most varieties. indigenous peoples developed a complex refining system to remove the poison by grating, pressing, and heating the tubers. the poison (hydrocyanic acid) has been used for darts and arrows. bakeries around the island sell cassava bread but don’t worry - it’s quite safe to eat it!

calabash tree

(Crescentia Cujete)

Emanuel Alexander, alias Ras “Faii”, is a herbalist and firm believer in the gifts of nature and the benefits of organic farming and eco-tourism.

coconut

(Cocos Nucifera) Classed as a fruit, but often thought of as a nut, the coconut is actually a one-seeded drupe. In Sanskrit, the coconut palm is known as Kalpa Vritsha, the tree which gives all that is necessary for living. We consume the water, cream, flesh, sugar and oil, while the husk and leaves are

48

used as materials in furnishing and decorations. Coconut flesh is highly nutritious and rich in fibre, in vitamins C, E, B1, B3, B5 and B6 and in minerals including iron, selenium, sodium, calcium, magnesium and phosphorous. For centuries coconut has been claimed as a potent cure for nausea, rash, fever, ear-ache, sore throat, bronchitis, kidney stones, ulcer, asthma, syphilis, dropsy, toothache, bruises and lice, and that’s the abbreviated list!

This is the national tree of Saint Lucia. It grows in parts of Africa, Central America and here in the West Indies, often as an ornamental shrub, but is also used in traditional systems of medicine. The fruits produced by the tree when young can be used as a vegetable; when mature and with a hard outer coating, the rounded shell can be cut in half to make soup bowls, salad bowls and interesting craft works – check them out in our local markets.

PAPAYA, also called Pawpaw (Carica papaya)

sugar cane

(Saccharum Officinarum) Sugar cane is a strong species of grass. Sugar cane juice has a high concentration of calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron and manganese. The juice is a good source of glucose which helps to rehydrate the body and gives it a boost of energy. So, the next time you feel fatigued or dehydrated, drink a glass of cane juice - it’s available from roadside vendors.

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

cocoa

(Theobroma Cacao) Cocoa is considered to be a rich source of antioxidants which may impart antiageing properties. Cocoa also contains a high level of flavanoids which can have beneficial effects on cardiovascular health. The seeds of the cocoa tree, known as cocoa beans, are roasted and ground to make chocolate, which we all know is delicious! If you have a craving for chocolate, or want to take home a little piece of the island, try our locallymade chocolate bars.

The ripe fruit of the papaya is usually eaten raw, without skin or seeds. The unripe green fruit can be eaten cooked, usually in curries, salads and stews. The black seeds of the papaya are edible and have a sharp, spicy taste; they are sometimes ground and used as a substitute for black pepper. Both the fruit and the plant's latex are rich in papain, an enzyme that makes it good for tenderizing meat. Interesting fact: papaya plants grow in three sexes: male, female and hermaphrodite. Contact Emanuel Alexander Tel. (758) 487 1135 Facebook: Emanuel Alexander


49


Sport

oPEN WAtER

swimmiNg

“I’m ecstatic! There are not many things left in the world where you can be the first one to have done something. And to be from farm country, in Lincoln, Nebraska, and make this swim in the Caribbean was a great experience.”

SAINT LUCIA CHANNEL CONQUERED Molly Nance is the first documented woman to swim the channel between Saint Lucia and Martinique. She achieved this on 16th May, 2018 in 13 hours and 56 minutes.

M

olly, a 52-year-old American, swam competitively throughout her youth but was in her 40s when she discovered the joys of open water swimming. She attempted crossing the English Channel in 2014 but had to abandon the challenge when she became nauseous after swallowing too much sea water. Last year, when a friend visited Saint Lucia and told Molly about our beautiful warm waters, she looked us up on a map and noticed that the channel between here and Martinique is about the same distance as the English Channel: 21 miles (34 kilometers). She resolved that this would be her next goal, and hopefully her triumph. After much training and preparation, Molly entered the record books this year, on 16th May. She set off in the dark at 4.43 am from a beach in the extreme north of Saint Lucia, accompanied by a support boat captained by Bruce Hackshaw. The onboard team included the official observer, Sue Dyson of St Lucia Channel Swim, and Molly’s supportive husband -

50

her ‘rock’ - Paul. The rules for an official channel swim stipulate that only a bathing suit, goggles and a swim cap may be worn; no wet suit is allowed. For protection against the sun and for insulation, Molly slathered lanolin, nappy (diaper) rash cream and suncream over her body. On her ankles she wore ‘shark bands’ although the only foe she encountered was jellyfish. To successfully complete a channel swim, there must be no physical contact by the swimmer with an accompanying vessel (Molly also had support from a friend in a kayak), even when taking “feeds”: a water bottle on a line had to be thrown to Molly who was permitted to tread water for no more than two minutes at a time. After completing this tremendous feat of endurance, Molly declared, “I’m ecstatic! There are not many things left in the world where you can be the first one to have done something. And to be from farm country, in Lincoln, Nebraska, and make this swim in the Caribbean was a great experience.” Congratulations Molly, from all at TT!

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AUG/SEPT/OCT 2018

st lucia channel swim

The waters around Saint Lucia are perfect for the growing sport of open water swimming. An inaugural event was hosted here from 6th to 8th July, 2018 incorporating an Open Water Swim Clinic with New Zealander expert and record holder Philip Rush, an Open Water Swim Meet with 1k, 3k and 5k races in Rodney Bay in front of the St. Lucia Yacht Club, and a channel swim. The event was sanctioned by the Marathon Swimmers Federation and will take place annually. The dates for 2019 are 5th to 7th July. Registration for the channel swim must be submitted at least 90 days in advance. If you are interested in attempting this challenge, please contact St Lucia Channel Swim:

Email: sluchannelswim@gmail.com Facebook page: @SLUChannelSwim instagram: @SLU_Channel_Swim Twitter: @StLuciaChannel


VOLCANO RIDES BEACH RIDES SUNSET RIDES ZIP & HORSE RIDES Come and lose yourself in the simple beauty of Saint Lucia in the Caribbean and create a unique holiday horseback riding memory. Morne Chouval offers several horseback riding experiences, choose one or try them all!

St. Lucia’s ONLY Volcano Ride experience! Ride along lush rainforest trails, through the mango orchard on your journey to view the breathtaking Qualibou Volcano and Sulphur Springs. Experience an Invigorating Sulphur Mineral mud bath and go home looking 10 years younger… Well it’s worth a try!

Piton View Beach Ride Our Piton View Beach Ride takes you into the Historical village of Soufriere , along hillside trails showing views of Soufriere Bay and the World famous Pitons. At the beach you’ll have a chance to swim with your horse right below the Majestic Petit Piton on Malgretoute Bay. Want to add a little romance on your beach ride? We offer a Sunset picnic with a bottle of red/ white wine and delicious local snacks.

Horseback AND Zip Line Combo Adrenaline junkie anyone? St. Lucia’s ONLY Horseback AND Zip Line Combo experience! The lush Rainforest Estate Ride takes you exploring hilltops with panoramic views of Petit Piton, Soufriere town and the Qualibou Volcano. Then on to an exhilarating experience above and through the tree canopy learning all about the estate as you zip along!

Happy Riding! LOCATION: Morne

Coubaril Historical Adventure Park, Soufriere.

EMAIL: mornechouval@gmail.com

PHONE: 730-5975

WEBSITE: www.mornechouval.com

FACEBOOK, INSTAGRAM & TWITTER @mornechouval 51


Index

fiNd your way

KAyAKInG Jungle Reef Adventures Anse Chastanet, tel. 457 1400

tours at sea

www.junglereefadventures.com

POWERBOATS & SPORTFISHInG

DFH Kayaking

Lucian Thriller Adrenaline Rush

dfhkayaking.com

Tel. 451 2424

Marigot Bay, tel. 451 7716

www.lucianthriller.com

KITESuRFInG

Capt. Mike’s Sports Fishing &

Aquaholics

Whale Watching

Tel. 726 0600

Join a tour or charter our own

Tel. 452 4845/452 7044

www.aquaholicsstlucia.com

boat.

www.captmikes.com

DAyTImE AnD SunSET CRuISES

Kitesurfing St Lucia Endless Summer Catamarans

Hackshaw’s Power Boats

Cas en Bas, tel. 714 9589

Tel. 450 8651

Tel. 453 0553

www.kitesurfingstlucia.com

www.stluciaboattours.com

www.hackshaws.com

Southern Breeze Catamaran

Exodus Boat Charters

Vieux Fort, tel. 454 3418

Tel. 450 8651

Tel. 485 3966

www.slucia.com/reef

www.stluciaboattours.com

www.exodusstlucia.com

Mango Tango Catamarans

Mystic Man Ocean Adventures

Tel. 452 8644

Soufriere, tel. 459 7783

Parasail St Lucia

www.seaspraycruises.com

www.mysticmantours.com

Tel. 485 8484

The Reef

PARASAILInG

www.stluciaparasail@yahoo.com Black Magic Pirate Ship

ECO Dive St Lucia Charters

Tel. 452 8644

Soufriere, tel. 713 6047

www.seaspraycruises.com

www.ecodivestlucia.com

JETOVATOR Jetovator

Tel. 452 5586

WHALE & DOLPHIn WATCHInG

www.carnivalsailing.com

The winter sees humpback whales

Carnival Sailing

migrating to local waters, while Jus’Sail

sperm and pilot whales and playful

Tel. 458 0069/287 1071

dolphins can be sighted all year.

Tel. 484 7433 www.jetovatorflight.com

DIVInG Dive Saint Lucia Rodney Bay, tel. 451 DIVE (3483)

www.jussail.com Capt. Mike’s Sports Fishing

www.divesaintlucia.com

Joe Knows Tours

& Whale Watching

Tel. 728 4049

Tel. 452 4845/452 7044

Scuba St. Lucia – Anse Chastanet

www.joeknowsstlucia.com

www.captmikes.com

Anse Chastanet, tel. 457 1400

www.scubastlucia.com

SAILInG & yACHT CHARTERS

Hackshaw’s Boat Charters Tel. 453 0553

Scuba Steve’s

www.hackshaws.com

Rodney Bay, tel. 450 9433

info@bateaumygo.com

Also: Arerial tram and nature trails Tel. 458 5151

www.rainforestadventure.com TreeTop Adventure Park Dennery Tel. 458 0908/724 7256 www.adventuretourstlucia.com Hotwires Morne Coubaril, tel. 459 7340

www.stluciaziplining.com

SEGWAy TOuRS St. Lucia Segway RodneyBay Tel. 452 8300/724 8300 www.stluciasegway.com

ATV TOuRS ATV Paradise Tours Ltd. Tel. 455 3245 www.atvstlucia.com

OFF-ROAD BIKInG Bike St Lucia Soufriere, tel. 457 1400 www.bikestlucia.com TreeTop Adventures Dennery Tel. 458 0908/724 7256

www.adventuretourstlucia.com

HORSEBACK RIDInG Trim’s National Riding Academy Gros Islet, tel. 450 8273 www.trimsridingstlucia.com

Tel. 485 3966

Gros Islet, tel. 452 8139

www.exodusstlucia.com

Anse Cochon, tel. 456 8110

internationalponyclubslu@gmail.com

www.tikaye.com/diving North Point Riding

Soufriere, tel. 459 7783

Dive Fair Helen

Cap Estate, tel. 488 2013

www.mysticmantours.com

Marigot Bay, tel. 451 7716

www.northpointriding.com

www.divefairhelen.com

First4Sail Learn to sail on a racing yacht.

WATERSPORTS

Tel. 518 1187

For kayaks, paddleboards and

www.first4sail.com

pedaloes. Saluna Watersports

St. Lucia yacht Club

Tel. 518 8720/518 8236

Tel. 452 8350

www.saluna-watersports.com

www.stluciayachtclub.com

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Chassin, Babonneau.

Island Divers

Mystic Man Ocean Adventures

www.dsl-yachting.com

Rainforest Adventures

International Pony Club

Exodus Boat Charters

Discover St Lucia yachting 452 8531

zIPLInInG

www.scubastevesdiving.com

Bateau Mygo Tel. 458 3947

oN laNd

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AU G/SEPT/OCT 2018

Morne Chouval Soufriere, tel. 730 5975 www.mornechouval.com Island Riders Tel. 584 7555 stluciahorserides.blogspot.com


Holiday Riding Stables

St Lucia Forestry Department

Tel. 714 7433

Rainforest hikes and bird-

www.horse-riding.net

watching tours. A guide must

shoppiNg

Tel. 468 5646

Roseau Valley, tel. 520 5102

www.stlucia.org

Atlantic Shores Tel. 285 1090/454 8660

Tet Paul Nature Trail

www.atlanticridingstables.com

Within the Piton Manaement Area,

Mix with the locals buying fish, fruit and vegetables. Meet the craftsmen and artists at the

accompany all forest forays. Hoofprints

Castries Market

Craft Market where there’s a Many shops offer Duty Free

wealth of wickerwork, leather

prices. Simply present your ID

sandals, clothing and coal pots

and travel details.

along with local spices, sauces, herbal remedies and tasty treats.

Soufriere, tel. 459 7200

Baywalk Mall

Castries Market has been listed

www.soufrierefoundation.org

Located in Rodney Bay, Baywalk

by National Geographic as one of

Mall features international brands

the Top Ten Markets in the world.

Piton Hikes

and local designers offering

Open Monday to Saturday, some

St. Lucia Heritage Tours

Tel. 486 1561

clothing, souvenirs, liquor,

stalls on Sunday.

Tel. 458 1454

www. grospiton.com/petitpiton.

pefumes and jewellery. The mall

www.heritagetoursstlucia.org

com

houses a gourmet supermarket,

Castries Vendors’ Arcade

drugstore, restaurants and bars

The Castries Vendors' Arcade is

plus an ice cream parlour. Open

a potpourri of Saint Lucian arts

every day.

and crafts mixed with imported

HERITAGE & CuLTuRE

Pigeon Island National

Rum TASTInG

Landmark

sarongs, shirts and beachwear.

44 acres of parkland, hsitory,

Rhythm of Rhum

trails and beaches operated by

Tel. 456 9110

JQ Mall

the Saint Lucia Nationa Trust.

www.saintluciarums.com

Also in Rodney Bay, JQ Mall

Open Monday to Saturday.

offers a supermarket, post office,

GOLF

Pointe Seraphine

drugstore, gift and craft shops,

Pointe Seraphine is on the north

clothing outlets and a rum retailer.

side of Castries Harbour, Quality

La Toc Battery

Sandals Golf & Country Club

A food court serves a selection

jewellery, clothing and souvenirs

Underground rooms, ammunition

Cap Estate, tel. 450 8523

of locally-loved fare. Open every

are available. Open Monday to

lifts and tunnels.

info@stluciagolf.com

day, limited opening on Sunday.

Saturday, and on Sundays when

TEnnIS

IGy Rodney Bay Marina The emphasis at the marina is on

La Place Carenage

Work by local artists.

St. Lucia National Tennis Centre

bars, cafes and restaurants. There

Located on the 'city' side of

Star Publishing compound,

Beausejour, tel. 450 0429

are a few shops selling clothing

Castries Harbour, La Place

Massade, tel. 722 8303

www.saintluciatennis.com

and souvenirs. Groceries and

Carenage offers quality jewellery,

www.mecurator.com

Tennis is also available at many

alcohol are available, including at

clothes and keepsakes. Open

major resorts.

The Marketplace supermarket. A

Monday to Saturday, and on

farmers' market is held Saturday

Sundays when cruise ships dock.

Tel. 468 5649 www.slunatrust.org

Castries, tel. 452 7921 MeCurator Art Gallery

cruise ships dock.

nATuRAL WOnDERS

SQuASH

morning. Open every day.

Diamond Falls and Mineral Baths

St. Lucia yacht Club

Gablewoods Mall

A supermarket, café and boutique

Historical plantation with gardens

Rodney Bay, tel. 452 8350

Gablewoods Mall in Sunny Acres

are just steps from the water.

and restaurant.

www.stluciayachtclub.com

has a supermarket, drugstore.

Open daily.

Marigot Marina Village

Soufriere, tel. 459 7155

clothing outlets and food court.

iN the air

Open every day, limited opening

Vieux Fort Plaza

on Sunday.

This smal plaza in the south of the

Near Fond St. Jacques

St. Lucia Helicopters

Blue Coral Mall

drugstore, dress and shoe stores

Tel, 459 7527

Tel. 453 6952

Located in the heart of Castries,

plus fast food outlets. Open

www.soufrierefoundation.org

www.stluciahelicopters.com

on the William Peter Boulevard,

Monday to Saturday.

www.diamondstlucia.com Toraille Waterfall

island features a supermarket,

this mall houses boutiques and Mamiku Gardens

ISLAnD HOPPInG

Tropical gardens with trails and restaurant.

Sunlink Tours

Praslin, tel. 455 3729

Tel. 452 8929

www.mamikugardens.com

www.stluciareps.com

cafes. Open Monday to Friday and half-day on Saturday.

i come from a place that likes graNdeur; it likes large gestures. it is Not iNhiBited By flourish. it is a rhetorical society. it is a society of physical performaNce. it is a society of style. Read more at: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/derek_walcott_860619

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Index

wiNe & diNe

CASTRIES

WINDJAMMER LANDING:

BROWN SuGAR

Overlooking beach and pool

Local fare

AnSE LA RAyE

Vibe: Waterfront, Casual Open for lunch and dinner (bar open all day). Closed Monday

- DRAGONFLy - JAMMER’S BEACH BAR Beachfront casual - uPPER DECK Steak and seafood (dinner only) - EMBERS

TI KAyE RESORT & SPA

Tel. 458 1931

- KAI MANJE

Email:brownsugarrestaurantand

International/Caribbean

bar@gmail.com

- PAPA DON'S

view. Impressive wine cave

AuBERGE SERAPHINE

Tel. 456 9000

Open daily for dinner

Caribbean/international

- TI MANJE

Vibe: Overlooks harbour

Beach fare

Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Vibe: Barefoot casual

Tel. 453 2073

Vibe: Elegant, with cliff ocean

Open daily for lunch Tel. 456 8101/718 1122

THE COAL POT RESTAuRANT

www.tikaye.com

French Caribbean

CAP ESTATE

Vibe: Waterfront Open: Monday to Saturday lunch,

Casual beach setting Italian, pizzas (dinner only) www.windjammer-landing.com

mARIGOT BAy CHATEAu MyGO Seafood/East Indian/Creole Vibe: Waterfront, friendly and HuRRICANE HOLE Bar food Vibe: Casual, waterfront Breakfast, lunch and dinner

CAP MAISON

daily for dinner

- THE CLIFF AT CAP

Tel. 452 5566

International/local

Email: coalpot@candw.lc

www.chateaumygo.com

Breakfast, lunch and dinner

PINK PLANTATION HOuSE

CAPELLA

Tel. 457 8681

Lucian homestyle cuisine

- THE NAKED FISHERMAN

Vibe: Historic; lush garden,

Seafood

verandah with panoramic view

Vibe: Beach Casual

Open daily for lunch

Open daily for lunch

Tel. 452 5422

Wed - Sun for dinner

wildorchidstlucia@hotmail.com

Swim-up, casual

mICOuD

In the Village Marina

THE BODyHOLIDAy

FOX GROVE INN

www.cape;;ahote;s.com

AT LE SPORT - TAO

Local/international

Asian, fusion

Vibe: Countryside sea view

Vibe: Fine dining

Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Open daily for dinner.

Tel. 455 3800

Tel. 457 7800

www.foxgroveinn.com

Breakfast, lunch and dinner

LABORIE

www.marigotbeachclub.com

GOLF & COuNTRy CLuB

DEBBIE’S PLACE, SAPPHIRE

MASALA BAy

Local/international

ESTATE

Vibe: Casual, view of golf course

Homemade local fare

Open daily for

Vibe: Creole, rustic

breakfast and lunch

Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Tel. 450 8523

Tel. 455 1625

Tel. 451 4500

LABRELOTTE BAy

PIRATE BAy

EAST WINDS

Vibe: Waterside casual

Vibe: Cliffside elegance

Tel. 457 8694 www.capmaison.com

www,thebodyholiday.com

Tel. 451 4772

- THE GRILL AT 14˚61 International - RuM CAVE Rums and dining - BRuT BAR AND POOL BAR - BAySIDE CAFE Tel. 458 5300

DOOLITTLE'S RESTAuRANT + BAR Steak, seafood, local, international Vibe: Waterfront dining Tel. 451 4974

SANDALS CAP ESTATE Indian regional & Hakka Vibe: Waterside balcony Open for lunch and dinner Closed Monday

Email: info@stluciagolf.com

mASSADE ELEGANCE CAFE

Caribbean/international

Indian/international

Vibe: Beachfront

Vibe: Open air and indoor

Open daily for lunch and dinner

Open Mon - Sat 11 am - 9.30 pm

Tel. 452 8212

French Creole/seafood Open for lunch and dinner Tel. 451 5889 THE MANGROVE

Tel. 450 9460

Stone pizza oven.

Tel. 450 9864

Vibe: Dining and entertainment Social media: themangrovestlucia

54

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AU G/SEPT/OCT 2018

mARISuLE CALABASH COVE - WINDSONG RESTAuRANT French Creole/Asian Vibe: Elegant, Ocean View Breakfast, lunch and dinner Tel. 456 3500 www.calabashcove.com

RODnEy BAy BIG CHEF STEAKHOuSE Angus steak and seafood Vibe: Elegant, air-conditioned Open daily for dinner Tel. 450 0210 www.bigchefsteakhouse.com BLuE OLIVE RESTAuRANT Home-made pasta/international Vibe: Waterside dining Open for dinner. (closed Friday) Te.: 458 2433, mobile 730 2433 BONNE BAGuETTE CAFE French, international Vibe: Al fresco sidewalk Open Mon - Sat 8 am - 6 pm Sunday until 1..30 pm Tel. 452 0671 BuZZ SEAFOOD & GRILL Seafood/international Vibe: Garden and indoor Open for dinner. Closed Monday. Tel. 458 0450 www.buzzseafoodgrill.com

ROyAL ST LuCIAN - CHIC International fine dining Vibe: Upscale elegance, AC Open: Monday - Saturday 7 - 10.30 p.m. - L’EPICuRE International/Caribbean Vibe: Beachside casual Breakfast, lunch and dinner Tel. 452 9999

BAy GARDENS BEACH RESORT - HI TIDE Caribbean/international - SEAGRAPES BEACH BAR & GRILL Caribbean/international Tel. 457 8500


COCO PALM

MATTHEWS BAR & RESTAuRANT

BOSuN’S BAR & BISTRO

LADERA RESORT - DASHEENE

TI BANANNE BISTRO & BAR,

Caribbean/Mexican/Burgers

Thai Gastropub

Upscale Creole

and CREOLE GRILL

Vibe: Casual

Vibe: Casual

Vibe: Piton view, open wall

French Caribbean

Open for lunch (except Sunday)

Open daily 8 a.m. - 11 p.m.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Vibe: Poolside bistro

and dinner

Tel. 458 4190

Tel. 459 7323

Open: Daily 7 a.m. – 10 p.m.

Tel. 572 0202/712 1134

bosuns.bar.bistro@hotmail.com

www.ladera.com

CAFE OLE

HOTEL CHOCOLAT - LE BOuCAN

Light meals, coffes, pastries

Creole/West Indian

Vibe: Cafe and Boardwalk bar

Vibe: Cocoa estate chic

Open daily until 10 pm

Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Tel. 452 8726

Tel. 572 9600

Tel. 456 2800 IL PAPPA PIZZERIA (Key Largo) Authentic Italian Pizza Vibe: Open air and Indoor Open for dinner (closed Monday) Tel. 452 0282/719 6535 JAM ROCK Caribbean Influenced Vibe: Reggae Cafe and Grill Open: Noon till late. Buffet lunch

COCONuTZ Mexican/international Vibe: Open air, casual Open 5 pm – late (closed Monday) Tel. 723 0751/284 9222 BANANA COuNTREE Banana Infused Vibe: Casual Open Daily Tel. 450 7544/285 7544

and theme night specials. Tel. 452 9365/729 JAMS Email: jamrockcafeslu@gmail.com MEMORIES OF HONG KONG Chinese/Cantonese Open daily for dinner Tel. 452 8218

THE LANDINGS - THE PALMS Fine dining - dinner - BEACH CLuB International - CALLALOO Casual, on the beach Tel. 458 7300

RAZMATAZ

www.landingsstlucia.com

Nepalese/Indian Vibe: Indoor and open air Open for dinner (closed Tuesday) Tel. 452 9800

PIGEOn ISLAnD JAMBE DE BOIS Good local fare

SPICE OF INDIA

Vibe: View of Rodney Bay

Indian Regional

Open for lunch every day,

Vibe: Indoor and open air

dinner Wednesday - Sunday

Open for lunch and dinner (closed

Tel. 450 8166

Monday) Tel. 458 4243

BARNACLES

www.spiceofindiastlucia.com

Fresh and local Vibe: Historical

SPINNAKERS BEACH BAR

Open from 11 am.

Local/European

Closed Monday

Vibe: Casual beachfront

Tel. 286 6944

Open: Daily 9 am - 10 pm www.spinnakersbeachbar.com

RODnEy BAy mARInA

TAPAS ON THE BAy

HARBOR CLuB

Tapas/international

- POSITANO SANTA LuCIA

Vibe: Waterfront, casual

Fine dining

Open for brunch and dinner

- JuLIA'S

(closed Tuesday)

Elevated comfort cuisine

Tel. 451 2433

- DOCKSIDE PIZZERIA

www.tapasonthebay.com

Fresh baked in a stone coal oven

Tel, 452 8491

- CREW LOuNGE ON SuSHI DECK LA TERRASSE

Gourmet sushi, sashimi and rolls

French

- MARKET STREET BAR

Vibe: Casual garden setting

Sit at the water's edge

Open for lunch and dinner (closed

- 7TH HEAVEN

Sunday)

Pastries, coffee and ice creams

Tel. 458 0392, mobile 730 0392

Tel. 731 2900

www.laterrassestlucia.com

www.theharborclub.com

www.hotelchocolat.com RITuALS SuSHI Sushi

FOND DOuX ESTATE

Vibe: Casual

Caribbean/international

Open for lunch and dinner

Vibe: Tropical garden

(closed Monday)

Open for lunch and dinner

Tel. 458 4344

Tel. 459 7545 Email: fonddoux@candw.lc

ELENAS Italian, pizza oven, ice cream

LA HAuT RESORT

Vibe: Relaxed

Local and seafood

Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner

Vibe: View of the Pitons

Tel. 451 0043

Breakfast, lunch and dinner Tel. 459 7008

CRAVE

Email: lahaut@candw.lc

Multi-cuisine Vibe: Relaxed, poolside

ORLANDO’S

Open: Daily 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.

Creole Flair

Tel. 459 2452

Vibe: Casually elegant

www.craveslu.com

Open for dinner,

SOuFRIÈRE

Wednesday – Sunday for lunch Tel. 722 6265 orlandosatsoufriere@gmail.com

ANSE CHASTANET HOTEL - APSARA

CRySTALS VILLA HOTEL

East Indian-Caribbean fusion

- TREETOP RESTAuRANT

- TREEHOuSE

Indian/Caribbean

Fine dining

Vibe: Amongst nature

- TROu Au DIABLE

Reservations required.

Beach restaurant and grill

Tel. 285 1984/384 8995

- JuNGLE

www.stluciacrystals.com

Beach grill at Anse Mamin - EMERALDS

VIEuX FORT

Vegetarian Tel. 459 7000 www.ansechastanet.com STONEFIELD ESTATE - MANGO TREE Creole/West Indian Vibe: Open air, Piton view

THE REEF RESTAuRANT & BAR Creole/International Atmosphere: Beachfront Open: Monday 8 a.m. – 6 p.m. Tuesday – Sunday 8 a.m. - 10 p.m. Tel: 454 3418 Email: reef@slucia.com

Breakfast, lunch and dinner Tel. 459 5648 www.stonefieldresort.com MARTHA’S TABLE Creole/West Indian Vibe: Homestyle Open: Monday to Friday for lunch Tel. 459 7270

55


Index

local iNfo

Avis Rent-a-Car Castries 452 2700 George F L Charles Airport 452 2046 Hewanorra Airport 454 6325 Email: avisslu@candw.lc

TELEPHOnE CODE

www.avisstlucia.com

The area code for St Lucia is 758.

Best Rates 24 Hours Car & SuV Rental

CuRREnCy

Castries 452 1330

The Eastern Caribbean Dollar

Email: 24hourscarrental@candw.lc

(EC$) is tied to the US$. Bank

www.24hourscarrental.com

exchange on US Traveler's

Budget Rent-a-Car

Cheques is EC$2.68 and on US

Bois d’Orange 452 9887

cash EC$2.67.

Hewanorra Airport 454 7470 Email: budgetcars@candw.lc

CREDIT CARDS

www.budget-stlucia.com

Widely accepted at all major

Courtesy Car Rentals Ltd.

shopping malls, restaurants,

Bois d’Orange 452 8140

hotels, etc.

Email: info@courtesy carrentals.com

TIPPInG

www.courtesycarrentals.com

Most places include a 10% service

Drive-A-Matic Car Rentals

charge on top of any government

Opposite Rodney Bay Marina

tax. Your server will appreciate

452 0544

a gratuity. Tipping tour guides is

Email: reservationslu@carhire.tv

acceptable and appreciated.

www.drivestlucia.com

BuSES

mEDICAL CEnTRES

Their license plates are green

Tapion Hospital

and begin with an ‘M’.

La Toc 459 2000 Victoria Hospital

BuS FARES

Castries 452 2421

Castries to Gros Islet: EC$2.50

St. Jude Hospital

Castries to Rodney Bay: EC$2.25 Castries to Choc/Vigie: EC$1.50 Castries to Vieux Fort: EC$8.00 Castries to Soufriere: EC$8.00

Rodney Bay Medical Centre 452 8621 Gros Islet Polyclinic

AIRPORTS

450 9661

George F L Charles Airport

DRuGSTORES

Castries 457 6149 Hewanorra International Airport

M&C Drug Store

Vieux Fort 457 6160

Bridge Street 458 8147 Gablewoods Mall 458 8151

AIRLInES

Baywalk Mall 458 8153

American Airlines

Daher Mall 458 8155

1 800 744 0006/459 6500

Massy Pharmacy

Delta Airlines

Castries 457 2227

1 800 221 1212/454 3119

Rodney Bay 457 2090

British Airways

Vieux Fort 457 2090

1 800 247 9297/484 6172 Virgin Atlantic 1 800 744 7477/454 3610

Operative Car Rental

Air Canada

ELECTRICITy

Corinth, Gros Islet 518 0923

454 6038

220 volts AC, 50 cycles.

www.operativecarrental.com

WestJet

CLImATE

TAXIS

From November to February the

Their license plates are blue or

452 2348/453 1219

approximate temperatures are

red and begin with ‘TX’.

Air Caraibes

1 800 204 0409 LIAT 1974 Ltd

453 0357

81˚F/27C by day and 71˚F/22C at

Vieux Fort 459 6701/454 6041

TOuRISm InFORmATIOn Saint Lucia Tourism Authority (SLTA) 458 7101 Email: information@stlucia.org www.stlucia.org Saint Lucia Hotel & Tourism Association (SLHTA) 453 1811/452 5979 Email: slhta@slhta.com

night.

TAXI FARES

December and January are

Castries to Gros Islet:

BAnKS

the coolest months of the year.

EC$66/US$25

1st National Bank

From April to October the day

Rodney Bay to Gros Islet town:

All Branches 455 7000

EmBASSIES

temperature is approximately

EC$20/US$8

First Caribbean International

High Commission of

84˚F/29C and the night 73˚F/23C.

Rodney Bay to Pigeon Island:

Bridge Street 456 1000

the united Kingdom

June to August is the hottest

EC$20/US$8

Rodney Bay Marina 456 1500

452 2484/5

period of the year.

Castries to Soufriere:

Soufriere 459 7255

Email: britishhc@candw.lc

EC$424/US$160

Vieux Fort 454 6255

DRIVInG LICEnSE

www.ukinbarbados.fco.gov.uk

Castries to Vieux Fort:

Bank of Nova Scotia

Visitors must have a Temporary

EC$212/US$80

Vieux Fort 454 6314

Castries to Anse La Raye:

Embassy of the French Republic

Driving Permit, obtainable

Rodney Bay 452 8805

EC$160/US$60

Castries 456 2100

to OECS Member States

from the Immigration Office at Hewanorra Airport or the Gros

Prices provided by Courtesy Taxi.

Bank of St Lucia All Branches 456 6000

Islet Police Station. A 3-month permit is US$20/EC$54. Driving

Courtesy Taxi Co-op Society

RBC Royal Bank

permits are also issued by major

Point Seraphine 452 1733

Castries 456 9200

car rental firms. We drive on the

Email: courtesy@candw.lc

Baywalk Mall 457 6300

left hand side of the road.

www.courtesytaxi.com

RBC/RBTT Caribbean

Vigie Airport Taxi Service

Micoud Street 452 2265

CAR REnTAL

www.slhta.com

455 6060 www.ambafrance-lc.org Citizens of the united States Contact the United States Embassy in Barbados. Telephone: 1 (246) 227 4000

George F L Charles Airport

Gablewoods Mall 453 2265

Adventure Leisure Car Rental

452 1599

Baywalk Mall 457 4371

Rodney Bay 452 0777

North Lime Taxi Association

Email: info@al-rentals.com

Rodney Bay 452 8562

TELEVISIOn

of Canada in Trinidad.

www.al-rentals.com

Soufriere Taxi Association

Local stations:

Telephone: 1 (868) 622 6232

All St Lucia

Soufriere 459 5562

HTS Channel 34 or 47,

Rodney Bay 452 0777

Vieux Fort 454 6136

CHOICE Channel 39 or 50

Email: leisurecars@candw.lc

EmERGEnCy

Email: info@southerntaxi.com

DBS Channel 35 or 46,

www.allstlucia..com

Police 999

www.southerntaxi.com

Visitor Channel 50 or 51.

Fire/Ambulance 911

56

T RO P I CAL T R AVELLER • AU G/SEPT/OCT 2018

Citizens of Canada Contact the High Commissioner


S I G N AT U R E C O L L ECT I O N

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