JAI JAI We take you to the heart of travel

we take you to the heart of travel

Sookjai

content

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Sukhothai (Happy Heart)

Wadwai naijai 10

Kaohjai

(Know by Heart)

(Paint by Heart)

Pimjai

(Impressed Heart)

Punjai

Pun (tam) jai (Shape by Heart)

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The Dawn of Happiness

Tawjai

(Inspired Heart)

(Weave by Heart)

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Chuenjai

Imjai

(Refreshed Heart)

(Fulfilled Heart)

Tamjai

Phakjai 26

(Follow your Heart)

(Cozy Heart)

Yenjai

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Jumkhuenjai

Nan (Peaceful Heart)

(Forever in Heart)

Ruenromjai (Contented Heart)

Sawangjai

(Brightened Heart)

Wadtua Wadjai

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Sanjai

(Tailored Heart)

Imjai

(Fulfilled Heart)

(Connected Heart)

Phakjai 49

Tamjai

(Follow your Heart)

(Cozy Heart)

First Edition, 2018 Distributed by Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA)

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Kwamnaijai (Words of Heart)

We’re all familiar with Sukothai as the first capital of Thailand and as a UNESCO-recognized World Heritage site. According to the history class, we have learnt about Thai alphabet, Paternalism, and the legend of “King Phra Ruang”, however, we don’t know much about this city and we still wonder what to see and do in Sukothai.

But when we plan to visit this ancient city, not just only taking photos of sunset at the Historical Park or having Sukothai’s signature noodles. Then we can see the interesting story with fascinating people and exciting experiences which makes the city full of life and creativity. All activities in Sukhothai can fulfill our sense of the story of place and joyfully understand more than we have known.

Do not believe! untill you take your heart to learn something by doing.

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In later centuries, with the rise of the Ayuthaya kingdom, chedis from Sukhothai period had been covered with new architecture called Phra Prang. These are tower-like spires often elaborately carved.

Across the area, the rubble and pieces of broken rock can tell a fascinating story of shifting political power. The story began when there were just two principal settlements in the Yom river basin - Sukhothai (before it became a kingdom) and Chalieng. In recent years, a third town called Si Satchanalai was built near Chalieng.

When Sukhothai became akingdom, Si Satchanalai was a vassal state ruled by official appointed by the king of Sukhothai. The History told that King Ramkhamhaeng and King Lithai, the two of Sukhothai’s

When History Resonates in Your Heart

Forget about the old story of how the Thai people originated in the Altai Mountains of central Asia and gradually migrated to established Lanna and Sukhothai Kingdom. The latest evidence shows that we Thais have been here since prehistoric times. First, take a trip to Wat Chomcheun, a centuries-old temple which is near to Si Satchanalai. Archeologists dug up human remains buried in successive layers. At the deepest layer, we found our ancestor from prehistoric times,

while those above layers were traced to later periods, which are the Dhavaravadi and Khmer kingdoms.

Then go to Wat Chao Chan, you’ll find other pieces of the grand historical jigsaw puzzle that is Sukhothai Kingdom. There is an impressive stone castle that functioned as a religious place. It is evidence to the glory of the Khmer monarchs.

Definitely, the distinctive architectural treasures of Sukhothai period are no less impressive.There are the chedis (pagodas) with lotus buds shape. The most outstanding pagoda is located at Wat Phra Sri Ratana Maha That Cha lieng, Sukhothai Historical Park.

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greatest monarchs ruled over Si Satchanalai before ascending to the throne. As a result, a trip to Si Satchanalai Historical Park gives rich insight into the town of Si Satchanalai and Sukhothai as well.

Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo has the collection of pagodas in various styles which shows the wealth of Sukhothai’s religious architectural heritage. Next, Wat Chang Lom features a chedi surrounded by a phalanx of gracefully carved elephants. At Wat Nang Phya, the influence of early Ayuthayaera art and architecture are the most obvious.

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Back in the heart of Sukhothai ancient city at Wat Phra Phai Luang, which resemble to 3-spired chedi in Lopburi. These structures are identified with the Mahayana school of Buddhism, but because the rulers of Sukhothai followed the Theravada tradition, these religious shrines were modified, not once but twice. In the early Sukhothai period, a series of Buddha images was installed around the chedi. The images have noticeably round faces like those that characterize the art of the great Khmer temples and the pagodas at Bagan in present-day Myanmar.

After reworking, during the era of King Lithai, the Buddha images were added to the structure with the elegant, oval-shaped faces to associate with the classical religious art of Sukhothai today.

One of the finest examples of this style is the image referred to as Pra Ajananai.

Housed at Wat Prachum, it depicts the Buddha in the attitude of subduing Mara.

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Since its more recent renovation in the mid-20th century under Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsongkram, this image has represented the highest artistic achievement of the Sukhothai period.

Another highlight of any visit to the Sukhothai Historical Park is, undoubtedly, Wat Maha That. It is picturesque. But a closer look at this important temple reveals that its founding was similar in fact to the construction of a modern-day city pillar.

Think about it, every ancient city had its own Wat Maha That, situated at the center of the universe according to Indian cosmology.

And in Sukhothai, Wat Maha That consisted of a collection of more than 200 chedis, chapels (viharas), mandapas, and prayer halls (bodh). In one vihara, you can see the base on which a now famous statue of the Buddha once stood, a statue now housed at Wat Suthat in Bangkok.

If you still wondered what the ancient city of Sukhothai had to do with you? apart from knowing the value of the city which earned World Heritage status, go to the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. You’ll see a collection of exquisite Buddha images in postures created by artists and craftsmen of Sukhothai here. You’ll see specimens of sangkhalok porcelain, a Thai ceramics which was highly prized in Japan since the days of the Ayuthaya kingdom.

The museum also houses an extensive exhibit of amulets and votive tablets found buried all around the grounds of the Historical Park, some worth more than their weight in gold. The museum is another fascinating piece in the puzzle of Sukhothai filled with its history, its traditions and beliefs, that await us to be amazed.

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Ban Pra Pim Laksamanasilpa: Imprinting the Stories of Sukhothai in Our Heart

“At Sukhothai, there are hundreds of chedis, each concealing an unknown number of Buddhist amulets.” This is according to Khun Narongchai (Kob) Toh-in from Ban Pra Pim Laksamanasilpa, as he started to show us some pictures of these amulets which are valuable items. Other people just wear them around their neck as a good luck charms, but as Khun Narongchai pointed out, these amulets are much more than that.

“Honestly, the Lord Buddha taught us not to worship material objects, but in the centuries after he attained enlightenment, his followers created amulets to serve as symbols or representations of the Buddha.

But if we don’t understand the actual teachings of the Buddha, we’re a bit like the spoon that gets dipped in the curry but can’t taste the dish,” Khun Narongchai mentioned in his charming and distinctive Sukhothai accent. He explained how the people who made these amulets all those centuries ago did so as a means of propagating the Buddhist faith.

They knew that nothing is permanent; that every-thing that is born must die. Even the tallest chedis will one day crumble and collapse. By placing small votive tablets or small images of the Buddha inside these structures, our ancestors hoped to preserve the faith. When there were no cameras 8

or modern recording devices,amulets depicting the Buddha in various attitudes were meant to be a record of the stories associated with the lives of the enlightened one.

Because he grew up on the grounds of the Sukhothai Historical Park and always enjoyed listening to his elders tell stories about the past, Khun Narongchai has become a kind of walking encyclopedia dedicated to the history of the ancient kingdom. After having studied with a master amulet maker for several years, he began making his own amulet. Eventually, he opened his house on the edge of the rice fields to visitors who are interested in learning about this traditional craft, which played such an important part in the way of life of ancient Sukhothai. He even shows how to make their own Buddhist amulets to the tourists.

Moreover, Khun Narongchai and his wife Kaem give visitors a warm and friendly welcome. They offer drinking water, snacks, and seasonal fruit decorated with flowers.

The stamps used to make the amulets and the clay by them are wrapped in attractive little packages which made from banana leaves. A little gallery that is also part of Khun Narongchai’s house has more than 450 amulets showing the Buddha in various attitudes, all modelled after images found all around the Historical Park.

Thai and foreign tourists can also practice their archery skills here. What better way to explain the origin of the Thai expression “en roi wai,” which in English refers to your Achilles tendon but which translates literally as “tying strips of rattan”? You can see that if you’re going to string a bow with strips of rattan, you have to hold the bow between your feet just where your Achilles tendons are. Visitors are shown pieces of flint that come from the mountains around Sukhothai.

They’re also told why they have to sign their names on the backs of the amulets they make.

That’s because it’s strictly forbidden to take Buddhist relics out of the country. This can prove to Thai customs officials that these amulets are newly made and not precious antiques, the maker’s name has to be inscribed on the back.

“There’s a story behind everything,” Khun Narongchai explains. “There’s a story behind every amulet design. A story behind the clay that’s used to make them. A story behind every temple here at the Historical Park. You have to realize that wherever you find amulets buried in the ground a chedi once stood or where a Buddha image was placed. If you don’t believe me, go check it out for yourself,” he concludes with a confident grin. The stories he tells really help to bring the history of Sukhothai to life.

Narongchai Toh-in Ban Pra Pim Laksamanasilpa 9

Painting Sangkhalok Designs on Cloth at Ban Preedapirom

Writing with a pen is often about more than making marks on a sheet of paper or a piece of cloth. It’s a way of recording experiences and capturing memories that live on in the heart. It’s the knowing that motivated Khun Thararat (Fon) Preedapirom, who sells local hand-spun cloth at Sukhothai Historical Park. She wants to help tourists by providing the area for recording their own personal memories and experiences in a very special way.

Khun Thararat freely admits that when she started out, she was no expert on sangkhalok ceramics, the stoneware for which the ancient kingdom is just renowned.

“I was just a tourist, like most of the visitors who come here. I didn’t know anything about sangkhalok, but I was interested in learning. I learned from archaeo-logists, the community museum, and the shops that make sangkhalok ceramics. I learned everything about the traditional patterns and shapes. And I practiced making my own,” she said.

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“You see this fish design? It looks almost alive, almost like it could swim away. That’s how exquisite these traditional patterns are! When I started copying these patterns, I considered myself a kind of guinea pig.

I followed all the steps in the process until I got the hang of it. And the first step was drawing. That’s how I teach the tourists today. I follow a step-by-step process that makes it easy for them to follow. Then I got the idea of having tourists paint their designs on a T-shirt. It was something they could wear them-selves or give as a gift to somebody back home.”

There’s a bright smile on Khun Thararat’s face as she started to recount in more detail the activities that visitors to her home can look forward to. To kick things off, Khun Thararat showed us around the small museum she has set up in her home.

It’s full of family household items meant to help visitors imagine what life in Sukhothai was like in the past. Then we took a seat around a table on the veranda outside. She told us the stories behind some 20 traditional sangkhalok designs – fish, conch shells, lotus flowers, peonies, and marigolds, for instance. Then everyone chooses their favorite design and practices drawing it on sheets of paper. Once they’ve developed some degree of skill, she passes around paint marker pens and we copy our design on a shirt.

“Everybody tries to draw the design themselves without my help. All I can do is give a little advice to them. I would like you to see their faces when they finish, they all look pretty chuffed. I’ve heard a lot of people tell me that they didn’t think they could do it.”

It’s not only a sense of pride that visitors get from Khun Thararat’s workshop, there’s also cold water scented with organic jasmine flowers that she grows herself. There’s seasonal fruit, ranging from juicy, fragrant mangoes to fresh baby coconut. There are also local sweets for everyone to try. Khun Thararat is especially proud of her old-style coconut custard, a treat that was always served to neighbors when everyone gathered to harvest the yearly rice crop. She servesit as a dip for coconut-scented sticky rice sprinkled with fried shallots. So yummy!

Therefore it seems that this experience is not just etched on the heart but it fills the stomach too!

Thararat Preedapirom Ban Preedapirom

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but we don’t just make copies. Of course, this is a business. This is how we make our living. But over the years, we’ve learned a great deal that we’ve gained a lot of experience. As a result, we also want to produce work that can be displayed in a museum as representative of modern-day ceramics.”

He continually mentioned, “At first a lot of people were critical. We were being Building on Ancient Inspiration overly ambitious. We’d forgotten our roots. at Mothana Ceramics It wasn’t sangkhalok stoneware. But we had this idea that the ceramics made in Sukhothai over 800 years ago relied on If travel is a search for new inspiration, technology that was really advanced for then Mothana Ceramics is a destination the time, so we decided to build on that that should be on every traveler’s itinerary. technology, not just reproduce the same It’s a place to get your creative juices flowing. kind of ceramics using the same techniques In fact, Mothana Ceramics is a pottery of the past. studio with a long-standing international “If you look at the pottery that was reputation for high-quality ceramic art. made back then, you can see that there Moreover, it’s a place brimming with energy. were lots of different patterns and designs.

Thanks to the enthusiasm that husbandThe kind of glazing varied from one village and-wife team, Khun Chalermkiat and Khun to another. Every producer had their own Anurak Boonkhong who bring it to their distinct style and methods of working. We craft. Just to hear them talk about pottery needed to do the same so that we would making and the works they produce stand out and people would remember themselves is to be fully inspired to live. us.”

“There are three parts to the work we Then Khun Chalermkiat and Khun Anurak do here at Mothana Ceramics,” says Khun led us on a tour of the small museum Chalermkiat. “There are made-to-order they’ve set up in their home. It showcases commercial work, conservation work, and some of the outstanding works they’ve sangkhalok-inspired art work. This has a done at Mothana. All the pieces are exquisitely purpose to preserve traditional designs made.

The shapes and forms are highly distinctive. The glazing techniques vary widely, and the pieces have interesting textures.

This includes the contem-porary- looking, gold-inlaid pieces as well. What is obvious as we look at the displays is that what distinguishes Mothana is its dedication to experimen-tation and innovation.

K h u n A n u ra k s a i d , “ Ev e r y t h i n g affe c t s t h e e n d product. The mineral content of the clay. How the pieces are shaped. The glaze and the way it’s applied. Everything is down to the smallest detail. That’s why making ceramics is really a lifelong learning process.

“We’re the kind of people who always think about what’s possible. It seemed to be possible to set up this business as a kind of learning center where we could pass on the knowledge we’ve learned from our experiences to other pottery makers. We want to provide a place where kids who’ve learned the basics about pottery making can come and build on those skills and explore their own interests. I mean, if they only do what the teachers tell them, they will never going to improve.

We want these young people to have an opportunity to develop their own identity as artists.”

As she concludes, a radiant smile crosses her face. It’s mirrored on the face of her husband. They’re probably thinking about the students who have come to study ceramics with them, and the village children who have found an outlet for their imagination here. They also offer short-term workshops where tourists can learn basic pottery-making and decorating skills. The possibilities that Khun Chalermkiat and Khun Anurak have recognized are nurturing young artists, inspiring kids to live more meaningful lives, and bringing happiness and indelible memories to the many tourists who have visited.

The positive energy that this place exudes is something we’ll certainly take away with us after our visit, along with the ceramic piece we made ourselves at this extraordinary school and studio.

Suejai

Anurak Boonkhong and Chalermkiat Boonkhong

Mothana Ceramics 12

800 bahts

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Every new batch is an adventure,” Khun Parujee explains.

Her studio also serves as an informal classroom where interested visitors can get a sense of what informs Khun Parujee’s work. Whether you learn a little or a lot is entirely up to you. Visitors with a short time to spare can learn the basics – how to knead the clay and how to shape it.

Once the pieces have been fired, Khun Parujee will mail them off to their makers.

But those with a deeper interest in ceramics can attend classes over a period of days. These students can board with Khun Parujee, who takes them around and treats them like friends.

Suan King Koi Doi Pui: Hand-Made, Heart-Felt Ceramics from Sukhothai Clay Khun Parujee (Pui) Boonchum is one of Khun Chalermkiat and Khun Anurak’s noteworthy students at Mothana Ceramics. She trained with the ceramics makers after she decided to move back to her home-town of Sukhothai.

Khun Parujee told us that she has a degree in social science, but her interest in ceramics started with a wish to be able to make just one cup for herself. But right a ft e r g ra d u at i n g , s h e fo u n d a j o b working at a university in Bangkok. It wasn’t until some time later that she asked herself seriously how she wanted to grow old, and the realization hit her that what she really wanted to do was to move back home and help to revive the traditional art of pottery making. That’s how her pottery studio, named Suan King Koi Doi Pui, came about.

“When I came back, I dug my own clay, I kneaded it and mixed it. As I was doing these things, I realized that I needed to

articulate my own philosophy,” the soft-spoken but deep-thinking ceramist told us, pointing to the finished works in her studio and the many pieces she’d prepared for firing.

Combined, they were an eloquent statement of the ideas that define Suan King Koi Doi Pui. These are hand-thrown, free-form pieces with a unique and charming character virtually impossible to replicate.

Furthermore, Khun Parujee uses only clay from Si Satchanalai district, which is particularly iron-rich and, when fired, produces a color found nowhere else.

“When the pieces are glazed, the Si Satchanalai clay gives the ceramics a mysterious complexity. The iron content mixes with the glaze to create unexpected colors.

150 bahts

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“When people come to the studio, I want them to be happy. They should be satisfied with what they get out of experiences. The first thing I do is to ask them what they want to make. I need to know this because different types of ceramics require different techniques. After I show them the basic methods, then they work on their own as I go around and offer advice as needed.

After all nobody knows what tools potters need for a particular project like the potters them-selves.” This approach to teaching makes Suan King Koi Doi Pui the perfect place for a certain kind of learner who wants to explore their own imagination, free from rigid rules and conventional ideas of beauty.

Learners like children, for instance (who can indulge in creative play while developing their skills at the same time!).

“Pottery making is a great form of self-expression. It reflects personal taste, and the size and weight of your hands.

I mean no two lumps of clay squeezed between your hands are going to come out looking identical. Every piece is unique just like every indivi-dual is unique. We want everybody who comes here to have confidence in who they are and what they can achieve.”

To drive home her point, Khun Parujee shows us some of the pieces made by children who have attended the workshops she has organized. And they are powerful proof of the studio’s commitment to self-expression, every bit as much as the pieces that Khun Parujee makes herself here at Suan King Koi Doi Pui.

Parujee Boonchum Suan King Koi Doi Pui 15

Suntharee Thai Textiles In the Phuan dialect, the word “Hua Jeur” means “heart”. When visit to Had Siew, a village known for its traditional weaving, is like a trip to the heart of Phuan customs and traditions.

One of the things that sets the weaving here apart is the use of porcupine quills to feed each individual thread through the weft and create distinctive patterns.

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Khun Raweewan (Meud) Khanadnit from Suntharee Thai Textiles told us the history of the Phuan people living in Had Siew. “Originally from Xieng Kong in Laos, they gradually made their way southward through Luang Prabang, Nan, Uttaradit, and Phrae, eventually settling along both banks of the Yom River in Si Satchanalai. Even though they’ve been here for many generations, they have managed to hold on to their own d i s t i n c t c u s t o m s a n d way of l i fe .

Their sense of cultural identity remains strong, and weaving is central to this identity.

All girls still learn how to weave and knowing how to make beautiful “Teen Chok” textiles remains essential.

“I’ve been weaving since I was 10 years old,” she recalled. “The clothes we wear on an everyday basis are called “Sin Teen Dam” and “Sin Teen Daeng.” “Teen” refers to the bottom of the tube-type dress, or “Sin.” Girls and unmarried women wear a red (daeng) Teen, while married women wear a black (dam) one. Dresses made using the special Teen Chok technique are worn to the temple, merit-making ceremonies or other special occasions. Every woman in the village has to have at least one Teen Chok garment.”

Khun Raweewan also explains that what distinguishes the weaving at Had Siew from other phuan communities are the nine traditional designs and three colors that feature in the cloth made here. Specifically, the background of the Teen is red while the design woven into it is yellow, and the top part of the garment is green.

Under the direction of Khun Raweewan’s mother, Suntharee, the Thai Phuan textiles made at Had Siew began to find a following outside the village. Working with other traditional handicraft groups in the community, she helped to create a center where she taught traditional weaving skills to interested individuals and groups.

Raweewan Khanadnit Suntharee Thai Textiles

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Khun Raweewan said, “We wanted to find a way for tourists to understand why hand-woven textiles tend to be more expensive than the factory-made cloth that dominates the market these days. Once we started the learning center, where visitors could see how our fabrics are made and not just the end-product, they started to gain an appreciation for our work. After that, we started coordinating with DASTA and came up with the idea of letting tourists try their hand at weaving the traditional way. In that way, they got to see just how much time and effort is needed to create even the smallest decorative detail. They understood the value of Teen Chok weaving and gained a little insight into our traditional way of life.

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“The design we decided to teach visitors how to make we call ‘Nok Khum,’ which translates literally as guardian birds. It depicts a pair of quail facing one another with a flower in their beaks. Together they guard over the home and the married couple and are a symbol of happiness.” Khun Raweewan notes that this design element appeared on the small pieces of cloth (Pha Chet Sob) used to wipe the mouth back in the days when people chewed betel nut. What a charming tale!

“Before we started teaching tourists how to weave themselves, we used to sell these little pieces of cloth in wooden frames as souvenirs.

“Weavers are artists. It used to be that they would work on their own and could weave just by using older pieces of cloth to guide them. Today, though, most weavers need a graph so we make graphs and teach our weavers how to read them. It’s essential if they’re going to communicate with

the people who come to learn from us.

In fact, knowing how to explain one’s craft matters more than anything. Individual weavers may have their own techniques since they grew up in different families with their own ways of doing things. This is a source of pride for them. So, it’s important that they can communicate why weaving matters to them. And that’s what makes the experience to tourists who come here get so unforgettable.

It’s a process that encourages sharing and learning from one another.”

As she talks, a radiant smile crosses Khun Raweewan’s face. As a Thai Phuan, she’s proud of her culture and is committed to keeping its customs and traditions alive.

Her weaving project is one way of preserving that.

But Khun Raweewan isn’t just a die-hard traditionalist. She has found ways of putting a contemporary twist on the village textiles that she and her group of weavers make.

She’s developed techniques for making cloth soft and more comfortable to wear.

It’s also machine-washable and color-fast.

She has also adapted traditional color schemes to suit modern tastes and created

her own brand called “SUNTRE3”. It’s a collabo-rative venture involving both Thai and foreign designers who take 3 traditional Thai Phuan weaving techniques to create fashion-forward items like caps, bags, chairs, lampshades and other decorative housewares.

“We’ve adapted to the present without neg-lecting the past. We need to preserve our traditions while integrating them with more modern techniques.

Everything we make needs to tell a story about the Phuan way of life. We’ve been lucky to have people come and work with us. By working together with shared goals, we’ve all learned and made progress.

Designers don’t often know anything about weaving, and weavers don’t know anything about design. But together, our weavers are excited to make new things. It really makes them feel proud.”

And if you want to share this renewed sense of proud, why not plan a visit to Suntharee Thai Textiles? There, Khun Raweewan and her team will take you on a journey into the Hua Jeur (heart) of Thai Phuan way of life.

Suejai

2,500 bahts

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Sukhothai-Style Cuisine: Proof That the Way to Our Heart is Through Our Stomach

Ta Pui Noodles No one can visit Sukhothai without enjoying a bowl of local noodles. The hundreds of small shops selling this speciality, one of the best belongs to Ta Pui. That’s because of the full range of options on offer. The experienced cooks add just the right amount of palm sugar, pork rind, long beans and fresh-roasted peanuts to every bowl. The noodles are served in earthenware bowls made right there in the village of Thung Luang. But noodles aren’t the only dish on the menu. The best known is something called the Governor’s Thai basil-fried pork.

A favorite dish of the Sukhothai governor.

It’s red pork fried with Thai basil and all the usual makings for Sukhothai noodles with a fried egg on top. It’s a mouthwatering treat!

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Lung Joi If you want to eat like a local, you really need to stop for a meal at Lung Joi, where the menu revolves around the different kinds of freshly-caught fish from the Yom River nearby. None have that unpleasant muddy taste all too common in fish raised in ponds. And everything is seasoned to perfection. Try the spicy tom klong soup with fish roasted over an open flame. Heaven!

Or one of Lung Joi’s signature dishes – like Dawk Son Chap Khai (a kind of yellow flower fried with egg) or Lon Khai Pla (a dipping sauce made with fermented soy beans, coconut milk and fish roe) or Nam Prik Pla Yang (chili paste with grilled fish). The secret of these great dishes is to pay attention on every detail. All vegetables come from local garden such as chilies which make the food at Lung Joi are zip and zing.

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Pa Aed River Fish Another relaxing, home-style eatery on the bank of the Yom River belongs to Pa Aed, who attributes the secret to her great cooking to the time she spent living on a houseboat. Back then she caught all of her own fish and she caught so many that she got tired of eating them. This was the stimulus she needed to develop a wider range of great-tasting dishes. Tired of coconut-based curries? Well, try the jungle curry, or the Kaeng Som (sour curry) or the pepper or ginger stir-fry. Pa Aed’s signature dish is her Chu-Chee fish curry, made with fresh sheatfish and fragrant fried chilies. Nowhere else can compare. But a word of warning – if you order this dish, you may need to wait a while because Pa Aed pounds the curry paste for each serving individually. It’s the key to the perfect Chu-Chee. Most of items on the menu are simple, but whether it’s Tom Yam with catfish, or a minced pork omelette, or braised pork ribs – they’re all exceptional!

Mee Khao Phan Phak Another small riverside restaurant we highly recommended is Mee Khao Phan Phak. An open, wooden structure that extends over the river, Mee Khao Phan Phak, as owner Pa Mee explains, specializes in a dish associated with Uttaradit province called Khao Phan Phak, essentially a dumpling stuffed with an assortment of vegetables, and a traditional Si Satchanalai treat called Khao Perb, a steamed rice-flour crepe.

Every dish is made to order. Another part of the eatery’s charm is the custommade Sangkhalok dishes the food is served on. It’s a clever combination of a few things for which the area is best known.

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Chill Places for Café Hoppers

379 drip This café is tucked away in a quiet part of town under a traditional wooden house on stilts. It serves a range of specialty drip coffees. All made with care and attention to details. But you can order other types of coffee drinks as well. The atmosphere here is cool and shady. Although it isn’t in the most obvious location, 379 Drip sees a steady stream of customers day in and day out.

Jongkol Café This café, named after a woman who started it, has a trendier and more relaxing atmosphere than other cafes. It’s no surprise then to learn that the owner’s sister is a stylist. And the young baristas behind the counter have developed their own range of coffee-based concoctions, like the Three Brothers, a wacky blend of green tea, cocoa and intense espresso, or the Meno Soda, a refreshing blend of different coffee beans.

They also serve up Anchan (butterfly pea) Lattes, a sweet lilac-colored beverage you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

A bonus is that the café is surrounded by shops selling Sukhothai-style noodles and old style pad thai. What more could you ask for?

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If you want to Hostel Khun Pariwat (Naek) Wichienchot said that this hostel marks his homecoming.

A native of Sukhothai, Khun Pariwat worked as an advertising creative and managed a restaurant before deciding to return home and open this hostel. He aims to create a community of travellers who appreciated a simple way of life. The hostel features dormitory-style accommodation, as well as single rooms and a common living area, where tourists from around the world can meet and share experiences. Guests also have access to a kitchen and a veranda for relaxing after a long day of traveling.

Although it all this was new to Sukhothai, it was unlike other hostels all across the globe. To set his new place apart, Khun Pariwat introduced a new concept called “co-hosting.”

He explained, “We try to create a society in which tourists and people in the local community recognize their own worth. No matter who you are, when you come here, you’ll find your own self-worth. We provide opportunities for volunteers to lead a variety of activities, and local people are more than welcome to participate. For example, there’s a local teacher who likes to speak with foreigners in order to improve English 26

skill, but most guesthouses are not welcome.

The guesthouses worry that the teacher will annoy the guests. But here is welcome.

As a result, some of our guests have gone and taught English classes at school. It’s a new kind of community involvement that benefits everyone.”

Khun Pariwat believes that these activities gives tourists a new sense of self-worth, knowing there are helping others. “The other day we had a co-host from Japan who taught some of the other guests how to make sushi. And another time a bunch of tourists got together with villagers to catch fish in the mud. It was great, dirty fun, and not just for the foreigners. It was more fun for the locals, who felt a sense of pride in sharing their way of life with our guests from abroad.”

Khun Pariwat continues, “We want to be a destination. We don’t want people to see the hostel as a place to sleep while they go off and see the sights during the day. They should come to Sukhothai to stay with us.”

So if what Khun Pariwat just said that he interests you and you think you’d like to be a volunteer co-host, let’s start saving your saleung right now!

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Nakorn De Sukhothai Hip Hotel and Hong Rama Tearoom This hotel is located at the old Hong Rama which was Sukothai’s premier movie theatre. It closes to restaurants, shops, cafes and the night market. This small boutique-style hotel is a great place to stay. And if you don’t want to go out, there’s a café/restaurant with a steady local clientele serving tasty Thai and Western-style dishes on the ground floor. Come to Sukhothai’s summertime heat and enjoy a refreshing drink in a cool and air-conditioned setting.

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Sukhothai Garden If you’d like to rise with the sun and head out to the Historical Part on bicycle, then the Sukhothai Garden is the right place for you. Located in a small lane in the old part of town. It still manages to avoid the cramped, stuffy atmosphere of many of the guest-houses in the area.

The clean, comfortable guestrooms are in an old wooden house surrounded by a lush, green garden. Best of all, owner Khun Su-tham works hard to provide a level of service that makes all the guests feel right at home.

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Grow your mind, rest your muscles, and fill your stomach: A few travel itineraries for you to consider 1

Suntharee Thai Textiles

Hong Rama Tearoom

Hours: Tuesday-Sunday (closed Mondays) 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m., Telephone: 085-146-4244

Wat Pra Sri Ratanamahathat Chalieng Temple

Hours: Open every day from 8:00 a.m.4:00 p.m. Telephone: 055-611-833

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55 Moo 2, Pisarndamri Road, Tambon Had Siew, Amphur Si Satchanalai, Sukhothai,

Telephone: 089-858-8576

35 Prasertpong Road, Tambon Thanee, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Sukhothai Airport

Mee Phan Phak Restaurant

329 Moo 6, Tambon Nong Or, Amphur Si Satchanalai, Sukhothai,

Sukhothai Airport/ Pisanulok Airport

Jongkol Café

Si Satchanalai Historical Park

Mothana Ceramics

107/4 Tambon Ban Klong Krajong, Amphur Sawankhalok, Sukhothai.

912 Tambon Koh Ta Chalieng, Amphur Sri Samrong, Sukhothai.

Hours: Open every day from 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Telephone: 064-313-3271

Telephone: 086-443-2628, 094-714-6145

Sukhothai Garden

Sukhothai Historical Park

119 Soi Sukhothai Nakorn 1, Tambon Muang Kao, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 084-751-1533

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Sukhothai Airport/ Pisanulok Airport

Ta Pui Noodles

Ramkhamhaeng National Museum

912 Kho Ta Liang, Amphur Sri Samrong, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 086-443-2628, 094-714-6145

Ban Preedapirom (Painting sangkhalok design)

Ban Prapim Luksanamanasilp (Making amulets)

291/1 Moo 3, Tambon Muang Kao, Muang District, Sukhothai.

51/7 Moo 8 Ban Khet Phon, Tambon Muang Kao, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai. Telephone:

Telephone: 095-609-7855, 091-025-0519

Sukhothai Historical Park

089-643-6219, 081-197-0535

Sukhothai Garden 119 Soi Sukhothai Nakorn 1, Tambon Muang Kao, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 084-751-1533

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Sukhothai Airport/ Pisanulok Airport

Ban Suan King Koi Doi Pui (Making your own ceramics) 170/5 Moo 1, Tambon Ban Lum, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 089-484-9136

If you want to Hostel

1-3 Nikorn Kasem Road, Tambon Thanee, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 063-779-7601

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Having a Cool Heart in Nan Old Town

Pa Aed River Fish Restaurant

Soi Wat Khooha Suwan, Tambon Thanee, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Lung Joi Restaurant

204 Moo 7, Jarod Witheethong Road, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Most people knew about this province nestled in the hills of northern Thailand and it was the source of the Nan River, one of the principal tributaries of the Chao Phraya.

The better transportation and the increasing range of activities offered by friendly local people put Nan firmly on the tourist map. Today, it’s a welcoming place full of history and ideally suited to travellers who are looking for a peaceful place to chill out.

In fact, Nan has become the top destination for thai and foreign tourists. It’s undeniably photogenic – just look at all the photos on social media! Walking in the shade of the frangipani trees that grow in front of the national museum or biking off to enjoy a local dessert at Pa Nim’s or taking a selfie in frontof the famous mural, the whispering lovers at Wat Phumintr. It’s enough to make anyone green with envy.

But these aren’t the only images of Nan we want to share. We want to shine a light on other attractions like the quaint little shops and local customs unique to the province that make a visit to Nan something you’ll never forget. Maybe you’ll find the experiences here so indelible you won’t even need to take selfies – the memories will be written on your heart.

But you won’t know for sure till you give it a try.

Open every day from 10 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.

Telephone: 055-620-308

Sukhothai Historical Park

Open every day from 11:300 a.m. – 11:00 p.m.

Telephone: 084-122-6425

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Leaves a Great Memory in Our heart

From our previous trip to Sukhothai, you might probably recall that the Sukhothai and Lanna kingdoms enjoyed f r i e n d ly re l at i o n s t h ro u g h o u t much of their history. A visit to the northern province of Nan is certainly reinforce that lesson.

When King Lithai of Sukhothai wedded the daughter of the Prince of Nan, he helped to make close relations between the two realms.

In fact, there is ample evidence of the alliance this union forged, whether it is the similarities in the written script that appears in stone inscriptions or the architectural style of certain temples built in Nan which clearly reflect the influence of Sukhothai. First is Phra Chae Haeng which was built by Phya Kran Muang to house the Buddha relic presented to him by King Lithai.

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Another is Wat Pra That Chang Kham Woravihara with its famous chedi built to resemble Wat Chang Lom in Si Satchanalai.

And the golden Buddha image known as Pra Puttananthaburi Sri Sakayamuni is unmistakably in the Sukhothai style.

As Sukhothai’s power waned, Lanna influence became more pervasive. This is especially obvious in the architecture.

The ceramic tiles that cover the famed Buddha image at Wat Phra That Chae Hang show unmistakable Lanna and Bagan influence.

Other structures within the temple compound date from later times and show Western influences. These include the plaster acanthus leaves made by Burmese craftsmen, who came to Thailand with the opening of logging concessions in the country’s north. Other elements resemble those typical of the Rattanakosin (Bangkok) period.

And if you stop to appreciate the view of the frangipani trees at the National Museum, don’t forget to drop off at Wat Noi, another temple with an interesting history. Legend told that when the Prince of Nan welcomed King Rama V to his city, he told his royal visitor that Nan was home to 500 temples. But when an actual count revealed that there were only 499, the Prince instructed local builders and craftsmen to construct a small temple – Wat Noi means “small temple” – at the base of the Bodhi tree in front of his royal residence.

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Next, visit to Wat Phumintr, a temple which has the famous mural depicting of whispering lovers. The name of the painting which includes the Thai words for “grandma” and “grandpa,” in fact comes from dialect words for a young Burmese man and woman.

Other murals that grace the walls of the main chapel here are interesting. Not only they depict scenes from the lives of the Buddha, but they are also a vivid record of the Thai Leu’s life and Europeans present in the region and in the period of King Rama V, when the artist “Nan Bua Phan” painted them.

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If you want to see more of this painter’s mural works, go visit another temple – Wat Nong Bua – because of similarities in or and style, it’s believed the murals were also painted by Nan Bua Phan. Try playing “photo hunt” with your travel companions to guess that– is this mural at Wat Phumintr or at Wat Nong Bua? Even more fun is to make a visit to the town of Pua. Travel to the top of Doi Phu Kha, breathe in the mist, and pay your respect at the shrine to Chao Luang Phu Kha, the first ruler of Nan. Then move to Bor Kleua, where you can taste the ancient salt that was once transported to markets in Sukhothai, Chiang Mai, Chiang Tung, Luang Pra-bang, and even as far away as Xishuangbanna in China’s Yunnan province.

We guarantee that your memories of this trip will remain so fresh that you’ll never have to do a Google search for information anymore.

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The House of Chao Fong Kham: A Tranquil Place Rich in History

The image of a teakwood house on stilts in a forested setting is enough to calm almost anyone’s heart. But knowing the history of this beautiful Lanna-style home, learning about the personal stories associated with its residents, appreciating the workmanship of the decorative details – all enhance the pleasure of your visit to the house of Chao Fong Kham. The original residence of Chao Sritumma, a descendant of the 6th Lord of Nan gradually passed to one of his great-grandsons, Chao Fong Kham, whom the house is named today. An outstanding example of traditional Lanna architecture and design, the house received the Architectural Conservation Award from the Asso-ciation of Siamese Architects under Royal Patronage. Today it is a living museum open to the public.

“Customarily, the house of a provincial nobleman like this one consisted of 6 separate

buildings. The main double structure served as the home of the owner. Another belonged to his children. The people who worked for the nobleman and his family occupied another building. The kitchen was housed in another building.

And the building in the front of the compound was for storing rice. You see, rice played a major role in the life of the home. People grew their own rice and stored what they harvested,” Khun Pattraporn Praboripoo, the daughter of Chao Fong Kham, who has lived in the house since she was a child said.

The house also has an extensive collection of items reflecting the way of life in the past. But while these items may at first glance appear simple and quite ordinary, they reflect a rich cultural heritage and a traditional of fine craftsmanship. There are out-standing examples of hand embroidery

and exquisite, hand-woven textiles made by women on looms in the cool space under the house.

History tells us that Chao Fong Kham had been the head of the weavers, responsible for overseeing em-broidery and weaving at the court of the residence of the royal heir.

Khun Pattraporn sees it as one of her chief duties to keep these traditional Nan crafts alive.

“Nan has always been sparsely populated, and people were fairly isolated. Every house had to have its own loom. We grew our own cotton and had to weave our own cloth.

Daughters-in-law had to weave cloth for their in-laws, their husbands, their children, and themselves. In the past people owned relatively few items of clothing. At New Year’s women would weave cloth to make

new clothes that their families could wear and show off at the temple. The styles and patterns varied widely. There was very little imitation. Everything depended on the skill of the individual weaver. New colors were used – new styles and patterns as well.

A weaver who wanted a particular color would have to make the dye herself,” Khun Pattraporn explained.

Then she led us down below the house where a group of weavers still work today, making beautiful fabrics on looms in the traditional way.

Everything about visiting to this nobleman’s house is sure to stay fresh in our memories for years. It is a place that epitomizes the cool, graceful elegance that defines Nan and its people.

Pattraporn Praboripoo The House of Chao Fong Kham

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Shining a Light on Your Heart: Making Lanterns at Ban Khom Kham

On any trip to Nan, whether you go to pay respect to the Buddha relics at Wat Phra That or visit any of the other graceful temples in the province. One thing you’ll notice hanging from the eaves or from balconies almost everywhere you go is lanterns made from Sa (mulberry) paper.

Old people will tell you that back in the days before electricity, people used lanterns to light their homes. And because these paper lanterns, called “Khom Matao”, lit the homes of provincial noble-men, they were considered auspicious. So on major Buddhist holy days, people made Khom Matao as offerings to the Buddha before listening to sermons. Even today, when it’s no longer necessary to rely on lanterns for light after nightfall, the old tradition of offering paper lanterns was revived in the belief that such an offering made at New Year’s or on a birthday would bring light

and happiness. That’s why at Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, you’ll find hundreds of Sa paper lanterns all bearing the names of the people who offered them.

But simply buying one of the readymade lanterns sold near the temple is to fail to experience the full meaning of this heart-felt Nan tradition. We recommend that you go instead to Ban Khom Kham in a place called Ban Muang Teet, where Khun Theeranan will teach you how to make your own traditional Nan-style lantern– a one-of-a-kind experience you’ll never forget.

“Matao is a localword meaning ‘watermelon,’” Khun Theeranan explains. “We call the lanterns Khom Matao because they’re shaped like a watermelon.” Then she goes on to explain the origin of the name of her village – Ban Muang Teet. “This is an old village, with the age of 275 years.

In the past, this was a fertile area with lots of mango (ma-muang) trees. ‘Teet’ means ‘lots.” So, the village was named Muang Teet, which means lots of mango trees.”

Before opening her home to people who are interested in making Khom Matao, Khun Theeranan had been a teacher at Talchum Pittayakhom School, where she taught her students to make traditional lanterns.

“I wanted all the children in Nan to know how to make lanterns. Later on I got the idea to start a small business, which I called Ban Khom Kham,where interested tourists could come and learn something about the local culture.

“Most of the materials needed to make a lantern are found locally,” she explains.

“Bamboo for the frame grows in the forests around the village, and the Sa paper is made in Na Noi district nearby. It’s sturdy and good quality. I hang it up from the trees outside, and no matter how many times it gets rained on, it doesn’t fall apart.

I use black or gold paper for the pattern, which Buddhists call ‘vajra,’ or ‘wisdom’ in English.

Theeranan Doidee Ban Khom Kham

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“You’ll notice that no matter how you turn the lantern, it always has an octagonal shape. This is an allusion to the 8 magga, or the 8-fold path to enlightenment. As for the tail, here in Nan, it can come in a variety of shapes, but the tails we make at Ban Khom Kham are called ‘jaw’ and they’re symbolic of victory. They’re also something for the souls of our departed relatives to pull themselves up out of the world of suffering.”

Khun Theeranan also told us that she is happy to teach her craft to groups, couples, or even individuals. All she needs is an advance heads-up so that she can prepare all the necessary supplies. She also recommends that you make your lantern before visiting Wat Phra That Chae Haeng. That way you can experience the pride of offering your own custom-made lantern at the temple.

But one last word – it’s a matter of more than just the individual lantern-maker’s pride. Each paper lantern carries with it the intense pride that Khun Theeranan feels in keeping the traditions of her home province of Nan alive for future generations.

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Custom-made Tung Ka Khing at Wat Prakerd More than just suits are custom-made.

At Wat Prakerd, the long and narrow pieces of cloth associated with Buddhist merit-making activities in northern Thailand are custom-made too.

First, it’s necessary to explain that these strips of cloth resembling banners called Tung in Thai, have been a part of Lanna tradition for centuries and come in a variety of forms. Tung Jai, for instance, are hung so that the spirits of those who have passed away can pull themselves up into a better world. Tung Sai Moo (Tung Krading Dao) are planted on the top of replica chedis made of sand and are believed to bring vast wealth, as countless as the grains of sand. And Tung Ka Khing serve to ward off bad luck and ensure long life.

As for the name, Ka is the Tai Yai word for “equal to” and Khing means “person.” So, the length of a Tung Ka Khing is equal to the height of the person who makes it.

But thanks to the ingenuity of Ajarn Khamrob Wacharakhom, former director of Nan Provincial Technical College, the Tung Ka Khing which made at Wat Prakerd have been given a symbolic meaning that’s deeper than just their length. After looking into the origins and beliefs associated with these cloths, Ajarn Khamrob came up with new designs resembling human figures and crowned deities withintricate carved patterns. Concealed in the designs are 108 Buddhist verses for bestowing blessings.

These beautiful Tung Ka Khing became an expression of the long-held beliefs at the heart of this custom.

Darunee Tiensan

Suchada Wacharakhom

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And later, when the elders from the communities around Wat Prakerd joined together to make these new banners, they found an increasing number of tourists, both Thai and foreign, taking an interest in the activity and its cultural significance.

Khun Suchada Wacharakhom said, “Foreign and Thai visitors like making their own Tung. But because they believe that the cloths ward off bad luck, they hang t h e i rs i n s i d e t h e o rd i n at i o n h a l l o r f ro m t h e wooden poles used to hold up the Bodhi tree. The poles are symbols of living a long life. But what I like best about the activity is that we get to pass on knowledge of our customs and traditions to younger generation, and when they make their own Tung, they get merit and blessings in return.”

“In Nan, we’re taught when we were children about how important it is to go to the temple. We feel peaceful at the tample. It is our spiritual anchor,” says K h u n Ti m , a n ot h e r v o l u nt e e r e a g e r t o t e l l u s about the way of life here in this northern province.

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“Everybody comes on a motorbike to help out.

It’s a form of meditation and enjoyment. Teaching is fun while earning merit as well.”

Anyone who is interested in having a Tung custom-made to the precise measurements of their body and soul should let the elders at Wat Prakerd know their height and birth year before coming.

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Weaving the Fabric of Life: The Weavers of Ban Tam In this generation, we usually purchase household items rather more than making hand-made items in our daily life. The idea of weaving strips of bamboo to make a basket, a tray, a fishtrap or chicken cage is likely faraway from us.

It’s similar to make a rice winnowing tray (herng) or a special basket for gathering mushrooms (cha). But in Ban Tam, a small village in Nan province, these skills remain very much alive. That’s due in large measure to the village elders, who have formed their own weaving group and whose members meet at the central village pavilion to teach interested visitors how to do weaving in the old-fashioned way.

From a few thin strips of brightly dyed bamboo, the elderly men and women of Ban Tam work together to help the tourists who visit to weave horses, mules or even long-necked giraffes. It depends on the imagination of the tourists. In the end, they have a charming little souvenir to take home – something that reminds them of their cultural experience in this northern Thai weaving village. But knowing something about the origin of this weaving tradition makes the experience that much more special.

In the past, hunters would make a small and geometric figures which is called Ta laew.

It is made from bamboo and place them around them to form a square before they went to sleep at night. It was believed that these figures would ward off dangerous animals and malicious spirits. Gradually, these Ta laew took on additional functions.

Woven bamboo figures were placed around the edges of the rice field as an act of forgiveness to the hard-working buffaloes they used to plow the fields. Ta laew were also hung from the earthen-ware pots in which traditional herbal medicines were made to certify that the potions inside had been made according to age-old recipes and to keep evil spirits from contaminating the contents of the pot. Villagers also hung seven-tiered Ta laew in front of the homes of the recently departed to discourage them from returning and instead seek a better place after death.

Speaking to a group of visitors, one of the weavers said, “We’ve been making Ta laew for generations. At Ban Tam, we want the tradition to continue.” He shows a clump of bamboo which is the basic ingredient for making Ta laew. He is interrupted by an old woman, who tells the tourists, “Our village is equally well-known for a type of fruit tree (madao) that grows here and for its beautiful women. I was one of them, of course.” She giggles, turning a fetching shade of pink. “If you come again, I’ll make you some sweets from madao.”

Kasem Junnawat 44

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The Heart-warming Flavors of Nan Heun Phukha Of all the charming local restaurants found around the province, our best choice is Heun Phukha. It’s the top in terms of atmosphere, taste and enjoyment. Roll a ball of sticky rice between your fingers and dip it into the mouth-watering Nam Prik Num – a flavorful and spicy chili sauce.

Order the spicy Thai salad made from a local fern called Phak Kood. Follow by Moo Tawd Ma-Kwaen, a fried pork flavoured with a spice made from the Indian prickly ash tree, known locally as Ma-Kwaen.

In fact, some people say that Ma-Kwaen is the heart of the best cooking in Nan. But what sets Heun Phukha apart from its competitors is more than just the food. It’s decorated with bunches of garlic, onions and chilis hanging from the ceiling above the restaurant. It turns out that the owner is an agriculture official whose responsibilities include supporting the local farmers and promoting the crops they grow. That’s why there’s fresh produce here all year round. It’s an important part of what gives Heun Phukha its distinctive charm.

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Aed Da Saeb Ver

Thename of this restaurant might sound a bit weird, especially in comparison with other restaurants nearby, but once you see the menu, your fears will be allayed.

Here you can choose from any number of variations on spicy Thai papaya salad, or the famous Somtam.

You can have it in Thai style, Laos style, with corn or some other signature style. Besides, there are rice noodles with Nam Ngiew, Khao Soi – a regional specialty – fried chicken, and northern style pork sausage. On some days, you can also try chili sauce flavoured with water beetles (Nam Prik Maengda), glass noodles fried with fermented sausage (Woon Sen Phat Naem) and other favorites like Kaeng bon and Kaeng phak plang – curries made with local vegetables. This is a true home-style restaurant – the perfect place to come if you’re tired of the more touristy joints.

Rabieng Din Farmstay and Nan Winery Enjoy the cool breeze on the second-floor balcony of this mud-brick restaurant when sunset comes. There are live musical performances in the evening. A culinary highlight is the mushroom curry (Kaeng khua hed thob). It goes beautifully with a glass of wine, made at the winery directly behind the restaurant. According to Khun Nida, owner’s wife and a native of Nan, the winery provides another avenue for boosting incomes of farmers growing fruit in the nearby communities. Both husband and wife have experience with wine production, having lived in France and California. Their expertise has allowed them to produce fruity, easy-drinking wines that match perfectly with spicy Thai cuisine.

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Wansook Café No matter how tasty the local cuisine, real coffee lovers must crave a cup of their favorite brew. Yes, it’s time to check out a relatively new place on the coffee scene – Wansook Café. With a range of specialty coffees, Wansook is sure to impress with trained baristas and an owner who really understands coffee. Of course, you can enjoy all the standards like latte, espresso, Americano, and flat white, but while you’re here, why not try something a bit more unusual, like a pumpkin latte or a cherry passion coffee or a vanilla sky? And once you’ve gotten your drink, you can sit and talk with the baristas at the counter or go upstairs and sit by opened window. It’s a great place to chill.

Memorable Accommodation Sound Sleep and Sweet Dreams at a Range of Relaxing Accommodations befitting your stay in Nan Although cocoa isn’t an indigenous plant and has no connection with Thai traditions, most of us have had a love affair with cocoa and chocolate since the time we were young. Who can say ‘no’ to a sweet chocolate drink, a rich bar of chocolate, or a slice of luscious chocolate cake? On a recent trip to Nan, we took the opportunity to learn about cocoa, the basic ingredient for everything chocolate. That’s because - believe it or not, in Pua district, there is a cocoa farm!

It’s owned by a married couple named Manoon Thanawang and Jaruwan Jinseng, whose love of chocolate inspired them to learn about how cocoa is grown and how fine quality chocolate is made. Once they realized that conditions in Nan were conducive to growing cocoa. Khun Manoon and Khun Jaruwan set about renovating the

Cocoa Valley

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family resort, renaming it Cocoa Valley Resort, and opened the Cocoa Valley Café.

These are places aimed at die-hard chocolate lovers who are looking for a place to relax and breathe in the intoxicating aroma of chocolate. Set amidst the green hills of Nan with a view of Pua town below, the café and resort attract the savvy traveller.

Café hoppers can drop in for an oozing serving of choco-late lava cake or indulge in a calorie-rich chocolate fondue made from 100% cocoa. People who choose to stay at the resort can take a tour of the cocoa farm and learn all about how chocolate is made – from how the cocoa beans are harvested, winnowed roasted and processed into the sweet treat we all adore. In the workshop, visitors can also see other products made from cocoa, like soap and cloth colored with a dye made from the cocoa pod.

(Interesting, right?) The resort will open workshops for non-guests soon. Why don’t you get a chance to know more about one of the world’s best-loved aphrodisiacs?

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Srinual Lodge When Khun Srinual’s grandson decided to leave his job at a production house and return to Nan, he turned a few simple rooms rented out by his grandmother into a quaint and comfortable lodge. Opened back in the days before the province was even on the tourist map, the lodge – with its warm welcome, clean and cozy rooms – has led the drive to introduce sustainable tourism to the local community. Today Srinual Lodge is a favorite with back-packers. There’s a reason why it hasn’t changed.

Sripanna Resort

For those of you who want to chill out in a calm rural setting but don’t want to go all the way out to Pua district, we have the perfect answer. It’s called “Sri-panna”. Where is located near the town but still looks out over lush green paddy fields. This resort is especially well-suited to families with small children because there’s lots of room for the young ones to run and play. For older guests, the rooms are tastefully furnished and very comfortable. And for shutter-bugs, there’s no dearth of pano-ramic views to shoot. It’s also just a short distance from Wat Phra That Khao Noi, which sits on a hills overlooking the city of Nan.

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Oon Ai Mang Na Span Go Where You Like, Stop When You Want, Eat at Your Leisure, And Enjoy a Good Night’s Sleep..

1 There is no better place to chill than this place! It’s just a collection of simple wooden bungalows on the bank of the Wa, but the queue of booking is quite long here. By word of mouth, Oon Ai Mang Na Span has acquired a reputation for peace and quiet in a lovely setting, complemented by friendly service and simple meals prepared by local women. Guests can pitch a tent on the bank of the stream and share stories with other like-minded travellers, many of them regulars who come back year after year despite the winding and uphill trek to get here.

Nan Identity Hall

Nan Airport

Wat Prakerd Temple (Making Tung Ka Khing banner)

Aed Da Saeb Ver Restaurant

Telephone: 081-765-2710

Open 7:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. everyday except Monday .

Telephone: 084-949-9958

Wat Prakerd Tambon Nai Wieng, Muang Nan.

25/12 Rat Amnuay Road, Tambon Nai Wieng, Muang Nan.

Srinual Lodge 40 Nor Kham Road, Tambon Nai Wieng, Muang Nan. Telephone: 054-710-174, 090-015-1692.

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Nan Airport

Wat Phumintr Temple

Wat Phra That Chang Kham Temple

Ban Khom Kham (Making lantern)

Hong Chao Fong Kham House

Phra That Chae Haeng Temple

152 Moo 4 Tambon Muang Teet, Amphur Phuwieng, Nan.

Nan Airport

Bor Suak Kilns

Telephone: 089-854-0387

Nan Sripanna Resort

242 Moo 8 Ban Thung Kham, Tambon Chai Sathan, Muang Nan. Telephone: 054-681-625

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8 Sumon Thevaraj Road, Tambon Wieng, Muang Nan. Open 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. (closed Mondays and Tuesdays),

Telephone: 054-710-537, 089-560-6988

Ban Tam Weavers’ Village

Moo 6 Tambon Bor Suak, Muang Nan. Telephone: 094-234-4770

Phra That Khao Noi Temple Cocoa Valley

Nan Airport

Wat Nong Bua Temple

Bor Kleua (Salted mine village)

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Wat Phumintr Temple

339 Moo 8, Tambon Pua, Nan: Café is open every day from 9:00 a.m. -7:00 p.m. Telephone: 063-791-1619

Doi Phu Kha Mountain

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DASTA’s Definition of ‘Creative Tourism’

So what exactly is ‘creative tourism’? A lot of people probably wonder how it differs from regular tourism. Don’t creative tourists still go someplace far from home, eat, sleep, admire nature, photograph landmarks, and buy souvenirs to take back home?

Well, at DASTA (Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Adminis-tration), ‘creative tourism’ is more than just travel for fun and relaxation. It provides opportunities for travellers to gain a deeper insight and appreciation for local ways of life, customs and cultures through direct experiences and on-site inter-actions with the owners of these customs and traditions.

Put more simply, ‘creative tourism’ means traveling to places in search of new experiences through hands-on, community-based activities that teach tourists about themselves and about the unique character of the people and places they visit. Another key component of ‘creative tourism’ is that, unlike at most of the world’s most popular travel destinations, local communities don’t have to change to cater to the needs of tourists. Creative tourism helps to make communities stronger. It makes local people more self-reliant. And these are key to the creation of true sustainable tourism.

The role of the Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA) is to coordinate with and provide support for stakeholders in the development of sustainable tourism, of which ‘creative tourism’ is an important component. We at DASTA are committed to ‘value creation’ based on Thai identity, ways of life, local folk wisdom, arts and culture, and history. The activities we feature here in “Jai Jai” epitomize the values and goals inherent in ‘creative tourism.’

This is our heart-felt message we want to convey at Jai Jai. We encourage everyone to become ‘creative tourists.’ Approach travel with curiosity and an open mind.

Seek out chances to engage with the locals in experiences that enrich everyone. With a shared understanding of what ‘creative tourism’ is, we can build a travel industry that is equitable, just, and truly sustainable.

Colonel (Dr.) Nalikatibhag Sangsnit

Director General

Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA)

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Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA) 118/1 Tipco Tower, 31st Floor, Rama VI Rd., Phayathai, Bangkok, Thailand, 10400 www.dasta.or.th www.facebook.com/cbt.dasta