JAIJAI We take you to the heart of Creative Tourism

Creative Tourism Creative tourism is a new term that was defined in 2000 by Richards and Raymond. Richards (2005; 2011), emphasises the significance of creativity in the planning and development of cultural tourism. Creative tourism offered a new way of redesigning a non-interactive mode of sight-seeing cultural tourism. In that sense, Richards and Wilsons (2007) conceive that cultural landscape of the destination including festivals, cultural routes, museums, cultural heritage could be recreated to have an interactive role and provide better, and more engaging experiences co-created between the visitors and the local population. Creative tourism arguably represents a notable departure from traditional models of cultural and heritage tourism, moving away from tangible heritage as the key asset towards creative and symbolic capital to overcome the dilemma in “ The massification of cultural tourism�

(Richards, 2016).

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The 3s Principles of Community based Design

From 10 characteristics of creative tourism criteria researched by Prof. Greg Richards, can be implemented to many tourism types, not only creative tourism.

In order to express the creative tourism type, the 3’s principle of community-based design is necessary.

tories Telling :

enses :

ophistication

1. Stories:

Story tellers or local artists could design an elevating story which could captivate the audience and create inspiration for visitors to earn and create their DIY masterpiece.

2. Senses:

The 3s principles of Community Based Design can be derived into 10 creative development criteria.

Creative activity is designed to have five senses hear, touch, taste, see, smell.

3. Sophistication:

Flow of the activitiy is well designed to stimulate the expression of creativity. Creative activity offers visitors the opportunity to develop their creative potential and could lead to the innovation of new ideas.

Creative tourism designers should communicate the uniqueness of the activity and implement continuous improvement.

10 Creative Tourism Development Criteria Evaluative Research for Rich Content - Get insightful “Stories” 1.

Creative tourism activity is designed from unique local

cultural assets.

2.

Story tellers or local artists could design an elevating story

which could captivate the audience and create inspiration for

visitors to learn and create their DIY masterpiece

Conceptualise to create full “Senses” 3.

Creative activity is designed to have participative & fun

learning experiences with a depth of understanding from local

experts (gurus or artists)

4.

Creative activity is designed to have active participation and

opportunities for host and guest to share experiences and

cultural knowledge

5.

Creative activity is designed to have five senses (hear, touch,

taste, see, smell)

6.

Place or creative space is designed to stimulate the

expression of creativity.

The Sophistication: beyond basic 7.

Flow of the activities is well designed to stimulate the

expression of creativity

8.

Creative activity offers visitors the opportunity to develop

their creative potential and could lead to the innovation of

new ideas.

9.

Creative tourism designers should identify the branding

message and create marketing campaign.

10. Creative tourism designers should communicate the uniqueness

of the activity and implement continuous improvement.

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Content Sookjai

(Happy Heart)

Kaohjai

Yenjai

05

Sukhothai

Nan

(Peaceful Heart)

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06

(Know by Heart)

10

Pimjai

Jumkhuenjai

(Impressed Heart)

Wadwai naijai

(Paint by Heart)

Punjai

(Forever in Heart)

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Ruenromjai (Contented Heart)

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Sawangjai

(Inspired Heart)

Pun (tam) jai (Shape by Heart)

Tawjai

(Brightened Heart)

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18

(Weave by Heart)

Imjai

Chuenjai (Refreshed Heart)

(Cozy Heart)

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Tamjai

38 40

Wadtua Wadjai

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(Tailored Heart)

(Fulfilled Heart)

Phakjai

34

22

(Connected Heart)

26

Imjai (Fulfilled Heart)

Phakjai (Cozy Heart)

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(Follow your Heart)

46

Sanjai

Tamjai

52

56

48

Chuenjai (Refreshed Heart)

Kwamnaijai (Words of Heart)

50

57

(Follow your Heart)

Third Edition , 2020 Distributed by Creative Tourism Division , Community Based Tourism Office, Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA)

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The Dawn of Happiness

We’re all familiar with Sukothai as the first capital of Thailand

and as a UNESCO-recognized World Heritage site. According to the history class, we have learnt about Thai alphabet, Paternalism, and the legend of “King Phra Ruang”, however, we don’t know much about this city and we still wonder what to see and do in Sukothai.

But when we plan to visit this ancient city, not just only

taking photos of sunset at the Historical Park or having Sukothai’s signature noodles. Then we can see the interesting story with fascinating people and exciting experiences which makes the city full of life and creativity. All activities in Sukhothai can fulfill our sense of the story of place and joyfully understand more than we have known.

Do not believe ! untill you take your heart to learn something by doing.

Forget about the old story of how the Thai people originated in the Altai Mountains of central Asia and gradually migrated to established Lanna and Sukhothai Kingdom. The latest evidence shows that we Thais have been here since prehistoric times. First, take a trip to Wat Chomcheun, a centuries-old temple which is near to Si Satchanalai. Archeologists dug up human remains buried in successive layers. At the deepest layer, we found our ancestor from prehistoric times, while those above layers were traced to later periods, which are the Dhavaravadi

When History Resonates in Your Heart

and Khmer kingdoms.

Then go to Wat Chao Chan, you’ll find other

pieces of the grand historical jigsaw puzzle that is Sukhothai Kingdom. There is an impressive stone castle that functioned as a religious place. It is

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evidence to the glory of the Khmer monarchs. Definitely,

near Chalieng.

the distinctive architectural treasures of Sukhothai

period are no less impressive.There are the chedis

was a vassal state ruled by official appointed by the

(pagodas) with lotus buds shape. The most out-

king of Sukhothai. The History told that King

When Sukhothai became a kingdom, Si Satchanalai

standing pagoda is located at Wat Phra Sri Ratana Ramkhamhaeng and King Lithai, the two of Sukhothai’s greatest monarchs ruled over Si Satchanalai before Maha That Cha lieng, Sukhothai Historical Park.

In later centuries, with the rise of the Ayutha- ascending to the throne. As a result, a trip to Si ya kingdom, chedis from Sukhothai period had been Satchanalai Historical Park gives rich insight into covered with new architecture called Phra Prang. the town of Si Satchanalai and Sukhothai as well.

These are tower-like spires often elaborately carved.

Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo has the collection of pagodas

Across the area, the rubble and pieces of broken

in various styles which shows the wealth of Suk-

rock can tell a fascinating story of shifting political hothai’s religious architectural heritage. Next, Wat power. The story began when there were just two Chang Lom features a chedi surrounded by a phaprincipal settlements in the Yom river basin Sukhothai

lanx of gracefully carved elephants. At Wat Nang

(before it became a kingdom) and Chalieng. In recent Phya, the influence of early Ayuthayaera art and years, a third town called Si Satchanalai was built architecture are the most obvious.

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Back in the heart of Sukhothai ancient that its founding was similar in fact to the

city at Wat Phra Phai Luang, which resemble

construction of a modern-day city pillar.

to 3-spired chedi in Lopburi. These structures Think about it, every ancient city had its are identified with the Mahayana school of own Wat Maha That, situated at the center Buddhism, but because the rulers of of the universe according to Indian cosmology.

Sukhothai followed the Theravada tradition,

And in Sukhothai, Wat Maha That consisted

these religious shrines were modified, not

of a collection of more than 200 chedis,

once but twice. In the early Sukhothai

chapels (viharas), mandapas, and prayer

period, a series of Buddha images was

halls (bodh). In one vihara, you can see the

installed around the chedi. The images have base on which a now famous statue of the noticeably round faces like those that Buddha once stood, a statue now housed characterize the art of the great Khmer temples at Wat Suthat in Bangkok. and the pagodas at Bagan in present day

If you still wondered what the ancient

Myanmar. After reworking, during the era city of Sukhothai had to do with you? apart of King Lithai, the Buddha images were

from knowing the value of the city which

added to the structure with the elegant, oval earned World Heritage status, go to the shaped faces to associate with the classical Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. You’ll see religious art of Sukhothai today.

a collection of exquisite Buddha images in

One of the finest examples of this style postures created by artists and craftsmen

is the image referred to as Pra Ajananai.

of Sukhothai here. You’ll see specimens of

Housed at Wat Prachum, it depicts the

sangkhalok porcelain, a Thai ceramics which

Buddha in the attitude of subduing Mara.

was highly prized in Japan since the days

Since its more recent renovation in the

of the Ayuthaya kingdom. The museum also

mid 20 century under Field Marshal houses an extensive exhibit of amulets and th

PlaekPibulsongkram, this image has votive tablets found buried all around the represented the highest artistic achievement

grounds of the Historical Park, some worth

of the Sukhothai period.

more than their weight in gold. The museum

Another highlight of any visit to the is another fascinating piece in the puzzle of

Sukhothai Historical Park is, undoubtedly,

Sukhothai filled with its history, its

Wat Maha That. It is picturesque. But a traditions and beliefs, that await us to be closer look at this important temple reveals amazed.

Just forget the preconceived notion that museums are boring. Keep an open mind and get to know the artefacts.

You’ll find the puzzle pieces that paint an interesting picture of the history.

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Ban Pra Pim Laksamanasilpa: Imprinting the Stories of Sukhothai in Our Heart “At Sukhothai, there are hundreds of chedis, each concealing an unknown number of Buddhist amulets.” This is according to Khun Narongchai (Kob) Toh-in from Ban Pra Pim Laksamanasilpa, as he started to show us some pictures of these amulets which are valuable items. Other people just wear them around their neck as a good luck charms, but as Khun Narongchai pointed out, these amulets are much more than that.

“Honestly, the Lord Buddha taught us not to worship material objects, but in the centuries after he attained enlightenment, his followers created amulets to serve as symbols or representations of the Buddha. But if we don’t understand the actual teachings of the Buddha, we’re a bit like the spoon that gets dipped in the curry but can’t taste the dish,” Khun Narongchai mentioned in his charming and distinctive Sukhothai accent. He explained how the people who made these amulets all those centuries ago did so as a means of propagating the Buddhist faith.

They knew that nothing is permanent; that every-thing that is born must die. Even the tallest chedis will one day crumble and collapse. By 10

placing small votive tablets or small images of the

origin of the Thai expression “en roi wai,” which in

Buddha inside these structures, our ancestors

English refers to your Achilles tendon but which

hoped to preserve the faith. When there were no

translates literally as “tying strips of rattan”? You

cameras or modern recording devices,amulets

can see that if you’re going to string a bow with

depicting the Buddha in various attitudes were

strips of rattan, you have to hold the bow between

meant to be a record of the stories associated with

your feet just where your Achilles tendons are.

the lives of the enlightened one.

Visitors are shown pieces of flint that come from

Because he grew up on the grounds of the

the mountains around Sukhothai. They’re also told

Sukhothai Historical Park and always enjoyed listening

why they have to sign their names on the backs of

to his elders tell stories about the past, Khun

the amulets they make. That’s because it’s strictly

Narongchai has become a kind of walking encyclopedia forbidden to take Buddhist relics out of the country. dedicated to the history of the ancient kingdom.

This can prove to Thai customs officials that these

After having studied with a master amulet maker amulets are newly made and not precious antiques, for several years, he began making his own amulet.

the maker’s name has to be inscribed on the back.

Eventually, he opened his house on the edge of the

“There’s a story behind everything,” Khun

rice fields to visitors who are interested in learning

Narongchai explains. “There’s a story behind

about this traditional craft, which played such an

every amulet design. A story behind the clay that’s

important part in the way of life of ancient Sukhothai.

used to make them. A story behind every temple

He even shows how to make their own Buddhist

here at the Historical Park. You have to realize that

amulets to the tourists.

wherever you find amulets buried in the ground a

Moreover, Khun Narongchai and his wife Kaem

chedi once stood or where a Buddha image was

give visitors a warm and friendly welcome. They placed. If you don’t believe me, go check it out for offer drinking water, snacks, and seasonal fruit

yourself,” he concludes with a confident grin. The

decorated with flowers. The stamps used to make

stories he tells really help to bring the history of

the amulets and the clay by them are wrapped in

Sukhothai to life.

attractive little packages which made from banana leaves. A little gallery that is also part of Khun Narongchai’s house has more than 450 amulets showing the Buddha in various attitudes, all modelled after images found all around the Historical Park.

Thai and foreign tourists can also practice their archery skills here. What better way to explain the

Narongchai Toh-in

Ban Pra Pim Laksamanasilpa

Painting Sangkhalok Designs on Cloth at Ban Preedapirom Writing with a pen is often about more than

most of the visitors who come here. I didn’t know

making marks on a sheet of paper or a piece of anything about sangkhalok, but I was interested in cloth. It’s a way of recording experiences and capturing

learning. I learned from archaeo-logists, the

memories that live on in the heart. It’s the knowing

community museum, and the shops that make

that motivated Khun Thararat (Fon) Preedapirom,

sangkhalok ceramics. I learned everything about

who sells local hand-spun cloth at Sukhothai His-

the traditional patterns and shapes. And I practiced

torical Park. She wants to help tourists by providing

making my own,” she said.

the area for recording their own personal memories and experiences in a very special way.

“You see this fish design? It looks almost alive, almost like it could swim away. That’s how exquisite

Khun Thararat freely admits that when she

these traditional patterns are! When I started

started out, she was no expert on sangkhalok

copying these patterns, I considered myself a kind

ceramics, the stoneware for which the ancient

of guinea pig. I followed all the steps in the process

kingdom is just renowned. “I was just a tourist, like

until I got the hang of it. And the first step was

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“You see this fish design? It looks almost alive, almost like it could swim away.”

drawing. That’s how I teach the tourists today.

them. I would like you to see their faces when they

I follow a step-by-step process that makes it easy finish, they all look pretty chuffed. I’ve heard a lot of for them to follow. Then I got the idea of having

people tell me that they didn’t think they could do it.”

tourists paint their designs on a T-shirt. It was

It’s not only a sense of pride that visitors get

something they could wear them-selves or give as

from Khun Thararat’s workshop, there’s also cold

a gift to somebody back home.”

water scented with organic jasmine flowers that she

There’s a bright smile on Khun Thararat’s face

grows herself. There’s seasonal fruit, ranging from

as she started to recount in more detail the

juicy, fragrant mangoes to fresh baby coconut. There

activities that visitors to her home can look forward are also local sweets for everyone to try. Khun Thato. To kick things off, Khun Thararat showed us

rarat is especially proud of her old-style coconut

around the small museum she has set up in her custard, a treat that was always served to neighbors home. It’s full of family household items meant to

when everyone gathered to harvest the yearly rice

help visitors imagine what life in Sukhothai was like crop. She servesit as a dip for coconut-scented sticky in the past. Then we took a seat around a table on the veranda outside. She told us the stories behind

rice sprinkled with fried shallots. So yummy!

Therefore it seems that this experience is not

some 20 traditional sangkhalok designs fish, conch just etched on the heart but it fills the stomach too! shells, lotus flowers, peonies, and marigolds, for instance. Then

everyone chooses their favorite

design and practices drawing it on sheets of paper.

Once they’ve developed some degree of skill, she passes around paint marker pens and we copy our design on a shirt.

Thararat Preedapirom Ban Preedapirom

“Everybody tries to draw the design themselves without my help. All I can do is give a little advice to 13

Building on Ancient Inspiration at Mothana Ceramics If travel is a search for new inspiration, then Mothana Ceramics is a destination that should be

representative of modern-day ceramics.”

He continually mentioned, “At first a lot of

on every traveler’s itinerary. It’s a place to get your people were critical. We were being overly ambicreative juices flowing.

In fact, Mothana Ceramics is a pottery studio

tious. We’d forgotten our roots. It wasn’t sangkhalok stoneware. But we had this idea that the ceramics

with a long-standing international reputation for made in Sukhothai over 800 years ago relied on high-quality ceramic art. Moreover, it’s a place

technology that was really advanced for the time,

brimming with energy. Thanks to the enthusiasm

so we decided to build on that technology, not just

that husband-and-wife team, Khun Chalermkiat

reproduce the same kind of ceramics using the

and Khun Anurak Boonkhong who bring it to their same techniques of the past. craft. Just to hear them talk about pottery making

“If you look at the pottery that was made back

and the works they produce themselves is to be

then, you can see that there were lots of different

fully inspired to live.

patterns and designs. The kind of glazing varied

“There are three parts to the work we do here

from one village to another. Every producer had

at Mothana Ceramics,” says Khun Chalermkiat. “There

their own distinct style and methods of working.

are made to order commercial work, conservation

We needed to do the same so that we would stand

work, and sangkhalok inspired art work. This has a out and people would remember us.” purpose to preserve traditional designs but we don’t

Then Khun Chalermkiat and Khun Anurak led

just make copies. Of course, this is a business. This us on a tour of the small museum they’ve set up is how we make our living. But over the years, in their home. It showcases some of the outstanding we’ve learned a great deal that we’ve gained a lot

works they’ve done at Mothana. All the pieces are

of experience. As a result, we also want to produce exquisitely made. work that can be displayed in a museum as

Anurak Boonkhong and Chalermkiat Boonkhong Mothana Ceramics

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The shapes and forms are highly distinctive. The glazing techniques vary widely, and the pieces have interesting textures. This includes the contemporary looking, gold inlaid pieces as well. What is obvious as we look at the displays is that what distinguishes Mothana is its dedication to experimentation and innovation.

Khun Anurak said, “Everything affects the end product. The mineral content of the clay. How the pieces are shaped. The glaze and the way it’s applied. Everything is down to the smallest detail. That’s why making ceramics is really a lifelong learning process.

“We’re the kind of people who always think about what’s possible.

It seemed to be possible to set up this business as a kind of learning center where we could pass on the knowledge we’ve learned from our experiences to other pottery makers. We want to provide a place where kids who’ve learned the basics about pottery making can come and build on those skills and explore their own interests. I mean, if they only do what the teachers tell them, they will never going to improve. We want these young people to have an opportunity to develop their own identity as artists.”

As she concludes, a radiant smile crosses her face. It’s mirrored on the face of her husband. They’re probably thinking about the students who have come to study ceramics with them, and the village children who have found an outlet for their imagination here.

They also offer short term workshops where tourists can learn basic pottery making and decorating skills. The possibilities that Khun Chalermkiat and Khun Anurak have recognized are nurturing young artists, inspiring kids to live more meaningful lives, and bringing happiness and indelible memories to the many tourists who have visited.

The positive energy that this place exudes is something we’ll certainly take away with us after our visit, along with the ceramic piece we made ourselves at this extraordinary school and studio.

Suejai

800 Bahts

500 Bahts 15

Suan King Koi Doi Pui: Hand-Made, Heart-Felt Ceramics from Sukhothai Clay Khun Parujee (Pui) Boonchum is one of Khun Chalermkiat and Khun Anurak’s noteworthy

character virtually impossible to replicate.

Furthermore, Khun Parujee uses only clay from

students at Mothana Ceramics. She trained with Si Satchanalai district, which is particularly iron-rich the ceramics makers after she decided to move

and, when fired,

back to her home-town of Sukhothai.

else. “When the pieces are glazed, the Si Satchanalai

produces a color found nowhere

Khun Parujee told us that she has a degree in

clay gives the ceramics a mysterious complexity.

social science, but her interest in ceramics started

The iron content mixes with the glaze to create

with a wish to be able to make just one cup for unexpected colors. Every new batch is an adventure,” herself. But right after graduating, she found a job working at a university in Bangkok. It wasn’t until

Khun Parujee explains.

Her studio also serves as an informal classroom

some time later that she asked herself seriously where interested visitors can get a sense of what how she wanted to grow old, and the realization hit

informs Khun Parujee’s work. Whether you learn a

her that what she really wanted to do was to move

little or a lot is entirely up to you. Visitors with a

back home and help to revive the traditional art of short time to spare can learn the basics how to pottery making. That’s how her pottery studio,

knead the clay and how to shape it. Once the pieces

named Suan King Koi Doi Pui, came about.

have been fired, Khun Parujee will mail them off to

“When I came back, I dug my own clay, I kneaded their makers. But those with a deeper interest in it and mixed it. As I was doing these things, I realized

ceramics can attend classes over a period of days.

that I needed to articulate my own philosophy,” the

These students can board with Khun Parujee, who

soft-spoken but deep-thinking ceramist told us,

takes them around and treats them like friends.

pointing to the finished works in her studio and the

“When people come to the studio, I want them

many pieces she’d prepared for firing. Combined,

to be happy. They should be satisfied with what

they were an eloquent statement of the ideas that

they get out of experiences. The first thing I do is

define Suan King Koi Doi Pui. These are hand-thrown, to ask them what they want to make. I need to free-form pieces with a unique and charming 16

know this because different types of ceramics

Parujee Boonchum Suan King Koi Doi Pui

require different techniques. After I show them the basic methods, then they work on their own as I go around and offer advice as needed. After all nobody knows what tools potters need for a particular project like the potters them-selves.” This

Suejai

approach to teaching makes Suan King Koi Doi Pui the perfect place for a certain kind of learner who wants to explore their own imagination, free from rigid rules and conventional ideas of beauty. Learners like children, for instance (who can indulge in creative play while developing their skills at the same time!).

“Pottery making is a great form of self expression.

It reflects personal taste, and the size and weight of your hands. I mean no two lumps of clay squeezed between your hands are going to come out looking

150 Bahts

identical. Every piece is unique just like every individual is unique. We want everybody who comes here to have confidence in who they are and what they can achieve.”

To drive home her point, Khun Parujee shows us some of the pieces made by children who have attended the workshops she has organized. And they are powerful proof of the studio’s commitment to self-expression, every bit as much as the pieces that Khun Parujee makes herself here at Suan King Koi Doi Pui.

300 Bahts 17

Suntharee Thai Textiles In the Phuan dialect, the word “Hua Jeur” means “heart”. When visit to Had Siew, a village known for its traditional weaving, is like a trip to the heart of Phuan customs and traditions. One of the things that sets the weaving here apart is the use of porcupine quills to feed each individual thread through the weft and create distinctive patterns.

Khun Raweewan (Meud) Khanadnit from Suntharee Thai Textiles told us the history of the Phuan people living in Had Siew. “Originally from Xieng Kong in Laos, they gradually made their way southward through Luang Prabang, Nan, Uttaradit, and Phrae, eventually settling along both banks of the Yom River in Si Satchanalai. Even though they’ve been here for many generations, they have managed to hold on to their own distinct customs and way of life. Their sense of cultural identity remains strong, and weaving is central to this identity. All girls still learn how to weave and knowing how to make beautiful “Teen Chok” textiles remains essential.

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“I’ve been weaving since I was 10 years old,”

textiles tend to be more expensive than the factory

she recalled. “The clothes we wear on an everyday

made cloth that dominates the market these days.

basis are called “Sin Teen Dam” and “Sin Teen

Once we started the learning center, where visitors

Daeng.” “Teen” refers to the bottom of the tube-type

could see how our fabrics are made and not just

dress, or “Sin.” Girls and unmarried women wear a

the end-product, they started to gain an appreciation

red (daeng) Teen, while married women wear a black

for our work. After that, we started coordinating

(dam) one. Dresses made using the special Teen

with DASTA and came up with the idea of letting

Chok technique are worn to the temple, merit-mak-

tourists try their hand at weaving the traditional

ing ceremonies or other special occasions. Every

way. In that way, they got to see just how much

woman in the village has to have at least one Teen

time and effort is needed to create even the smallest

Chok garment.”

decorative detail. They understood the value of Teen

Khun Raweewan also explains that what distinguishes the weaving at Had Siew from other

Chok weaving and gained a little insight into our traditional way of life.

phuan communities are the nine traditional designs

“The design we decided to teach visitors how

and three colors that feature in the cloth made

to make we call ‘Nok Khum,’ which translates literally

here. Specifically, the background of the Teen is red

as guardian birds. It depicts a pair of quail facing

while the design woven into it is yellow, and the

one another with a flower in their beaks. Together

top part of the garment is green.

they guard over the home and the married couple

Under the direction of Khun Raweewan’s mother,

and are a symbol of happiness.” Khun Raweewan

Suntharee, the Thai Phuan textiles made at Had

notes that this design element appeared on the

Siew began to find a following outside the village.

small pieces of cloth (Pha Chet Sob) used to wipe

Working with other traditional handicraft groups in

the mouth back in the days when people chewed

the community, she helped to create a center where

betel nut. What a charming tale!

she taught traditional weaving skills to interested individuals and groups.

Khun Raweewan said, “We wanted to find a way for tourists to understand why hand-woven

“Before we started teaching tourists how to weave themselves, we used to sell these little pieces of cloth in wooden frames as souvenirs.

“Weavers are artists. It used to be that they 19

would work on their own and could weave just by

and color fast. She has also adapted traditional

using older pieces of cloth to guide them. Today,

color schemes to suit modern tastes and

though, most weavers need a graph so we make

created her own brand called “SUNTRE3”. It’s a

graphs and teach our weavers how to read them.

collaborative venture involving both Thai and

It’s essential if they’re going to communicate

foreign designers who take 3 traditional Thai

with the people who come to learn from us. In fact,

Phuan weaving techniques to create fashion

knowing how to explain one’s craft matters more

forward items like caps, bags, chairs,

than anything. Individual weavers may have their

lampshades and other decorative housewares.

own techniques since they grew up in different families with their own ways of doing things. This is a source of pride for them. So, it’s important that they can communicate why weaving matters to them. And that’s what makes the experience to tourists who come here get so unforgettable.

It’s a process that encourages sharing and learning

Suejai

from one another.”

As she talks, a radiant smile crosses Khun Raweewan’s face. As a Thai Phuan, she’s proud of her culture and is committed to keeping its customs and traditions alive. Her weaving project is one way of preserving that.

But Khun Raweewan isn’t just a die hard traditionalist. She has found ways of putting a contemporary twist on the village textiles that she and her group of weavers make. She’s developed techniques for making cloth soft and more comfortable to wear. It’s also machine washable 20

2,500 Bahts

“We’ve adapted to the present without neg-lecting the past. We need to preserve our traditions while integrating them with more modern techniques.

Everything we make needs to tell a story about the Phuan way of life. We’ve been lucky to have people come and work with us. By working together with shared goals, we’ve all learned and made progress. Designers don’t often know anything about weaving, and weavers don’t know anything about design. But together, our weavers are excited to make new things. It really makes them feel proud.”

And if you want to share this renewed sense of proud, why not plan a visit to Suntharee Thai Textiles? There, Khun Raweewan and her team will take you on a journey into the Hua Jeur (heart) of Thai Phuan way of life.

Raweewan Khanadnit Suntharee Thai Textiles

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Sukhothai-Style Cuisine: Proof That the Way to Our Heart is Through Our Stomach Ta Pui Noodles No one can visit Sukhothai without enjoying a bowl of local noodles. The hundreds of small shops selling this speciality, one of the best belongs to Ta Pui. That’s because of the full range of options on offer.

The experienced cooks add just the right amount of palm sugar, pork rind, long beans and fresh roasted peanuts to every bowl. The noodles are served in earthenware bowls made right there in the village of Thung Luang. But noodles aren’t the only dish on the menu. The best known is something called the Governor’s Thai basil-fried pork. A favorite dish of the Sukhothai governor. It’s red pork fried with Thai basil and all the usual makings for Sukhothai noodles with a fried egg on top. It’s a mouth watering treat!

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Lung Joi If you want to eat like a local, you really need to stop for a meal at Lung Joi, where the menu revolves around the different kinds of freshly-caught fish from the Yom River nearby. None have that unpleasant muddy taste all too common in fish raised in ponds. And everything is seasoned to perfection. Try the spicy tom klong soup with fish roasted over an open flame. Heaven! Or one of Lung Joi’s signature dishes ike Dawk Son Chap Khai (a kind of yellow flower fried with egg) or Lon Khai Pla (a dipping sauce made with fermented soy beans, coconut milk and fish roe) or Nam Prik Pla Yang (chili paste with grilled fish). The secret of these great dishes is to pay attention on every detail.

All vegetables come from local garden such as chilies which make the food at Lung Joi are zip and zing.

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Pa Aed River Fish Another relaxing, home-style eatery on the bank of the Yom River belongs to Pa Aed, who attributes the secret to her great cooking to the time she spent living on a houseboat. Back then she caught all of her own fish and she caught so many that she got tired of eating them. This was the stimulus she needed to develop a wider range of great-tasting dishes. Tired of coconut-based curries? Well, try the jungle curry, or the Kaeng Som (sour curry) or the pepper or ginger stir-fry. Pa Aed’s signature dish is her Chu-Chee fish curry, made with fresh sheatfish and fragrant fried chilies. Nowhere else can compare. But a word of warning if you order this dish, you may need to wait a while because Pa Aed pounds the curry paste for each serving individually. It’s the key to the perfect Chu-Chee. Most of items on the menu are simple, but whether it’s Tom Yam with catfish, or a minced pork omelette, or braised pork ribs they’re all exceptional!

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Mee Khao Phan Phak Another small riverside restaurant we highly recommended is Mee Khao Phan Phak. An open, wooden structure that extends over the river, Mee Khao Phan Phak, as owner Pa Mee explains, specializes in a dish associated with Uttaradit province called Khao Phan Phak, essentially a dumpling stuffed with an assortment of vegetables, and a traditional Si Satchanalai treat called Khao Perb, a steamed rice-flour crepe.

Every dish is made to order. Another part of the eatery’s charm is the custom made Sangkhalok dishes the food is served on. It’s a clever combination of a few things for which the area is best known.

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Chill Places for Café Hoppers

Jongkol Café This café, named after a woman who started it, has a trendier and more relaxing atmosphere than other cafes. It’s no surprise then to learn that the owner’s sister is a stylist. And the young baristas behind the counter have developed their own range of coffee-based concoctions, like the Three Brothers, a wacky blend of green tea, cocoa and intense espresso, or the Meno Soda, a refreshing blend of different coffee beans.

They also serve up Anchan (butterfly pea) Lattes, a sweet lilac-colored beverage you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. A bonus is that the café is surrounded by shops selling Sukhothai-style noodles and old style pad thai. What more could you ask for?

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379 DRIP This cafÊ is tucked away in a quiet part of town under a traditional wooden house on stilts. It serves a range of specialty drip coffees. All made with care and attention to details. But you can order other types of coffee drinks as well. The atmosphere here is cool and shady. Although it isn’t in the most obvious location, 379 Drip sees a steady stream of customers day in and day out.

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Good Night, Sleep Tight In Sukhothai

IF YOU WANT TO HOSTEL Khun Pariwat (Naek) Wichienchot said that this hostel marks his homecoming. A native of Sukhothai, Khun Pariwat worked as an advertising creative and managed a restaurant before deciding to return home and open this hostel. He aims to create a community of travellers who appreciated a simple way of life. The hostel features dormitory-style accommodation, as well as single rooms and a common living area, where tourists from around the world can meet and share experiences. Guests also have access to a kitchen and a veranda for relaxing after a long day of traveling. Although it all this was new to Sukhothai, it was unlike other hostels all across the globe. To set his new place apart, Khun Pariwat introduced a new concept called “co-hosting.”

He explained, “We try to create a society in which tourists and people in the local community recognize their own worth. No matter who you are, when you come here, you’ll find your own selfworth.

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We provide opportunities for volunteers to lead a variety of activities, and local people are more than welcome to participate. For example, there’s a local teacher who likes to speak with foreigners in order to improve English skill, but most guesthouses are not welcome. The guesthouses worry that the teacher will annoy the guests. But here is welcome.

As a result, some of our guests have gone and taught English classes at school. It’s a new kind of community involvement that benefits everyone.”

Khun Pariwat believes that these activities gives tourists a new sense of self-worth, knowing there are helping others. “The other day we had a co-host from Japan who taught some of the other guests how to make sushi. And another time a bunch of tourists got together with villagers to catch fish in the mud. It was great, dirty fun, and not just for the foreigners. It was more fun for the locals, who felt a sense of pride in sharing their way of life with our guests from abroad.”

Khun Pariwat continues, “We want to be a destination. We don’t want people to see the hostel as a place to sleep while they go off and see the sights during the day. They should come to Sukhothai to stay with us.”

So if what Khun Pariwat just said that he interests you and you think you’d like to be a volunteer co-host, let’s start saving your saleung right now!

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NAKORN DE SUKHOTHAI HIP HOTEL AND HONG RAMA TEAROOM This hotel is located at the old Hong Rama which was Sukothai’s premier movie theatre.

It closes to restaurants, shops, cafes and the night market. This small boutique-style hotel is a great place to stay. And if you don’t want to go out, there’s a café/restaurant with a steady local clientele serving tasty Thai and Western-style dishes on the ground floor. Come to Sukhothai’s summertime heat and enjoy a refreshing drink in a cool and air-conditioned setting.

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SUKHOTHAI GARDEN If you’d like to rise with the sun and head out to the Historical Part on bicycle, then the Sukhothai Garden is the right place for you. Located in a small lane in the old part of town. It still manages to avoid the cramped, stuffy atmosphere of many of the guest-houses in the area. The clean, comfortable guestrooms are in an old wooden house surrounded by a lush, green garden. Best of all, owner Khun Su-tham works hard to provide a level of service that makes all the guests feel right at home.

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Grow your mind, rest your muscles, and fill your stomach A few travel itineraries for you to consider 1

Sukhothai Airport/ Pisanulok Airport

Suntharee Thai Textiles

Hong Rama Tearoom

35 Prasertpong Road, Tambon Thanee, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Hours: Open every day from 8:00 a.m.- 4:00 p.m.

Telephone: 055-611-833

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Sukhothai Airport

Mee Phan Phak Restaurant

329 Moo 6, Tambon Nong Or, Amphur Si Satchanalai, Sukhothai, Telephone: 089-858-8576

55 Moo 2, Pisarndamri Road, Tambon Had Siew, Amphur Si Satchanalai, Sukhothai, Hours: Tuesday-Sunday (closed Mondays) 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m., Telephone: 085-146-4244

Wat Pra Sri Ratanamahathat Chalieng Temple

Jongkol Café

Mothana Ceramics

107/4 Tambon Ban Klong Krajong, Amphur Sawankhalok, Sukhothai.

Hours: Open every day from 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Telephone: 064-313-3271

912 Tambon Koh Ta Chalieng, Amphur Sri Samrong, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 086-443-2628, 094-714-6145

Sukhothai Garden

Sukhothai Historical Park

119 Soi Sukhothai Nakorn 1, Tambon Muang Kao, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 084-751-1533

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Sukhothai Airport/ Pisanulok Airport

291/1 Moo 3, Tambon Muang Kao, Muang District, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 095-609-7855, 091-025-0519

Sukhothai Historical Park

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If you want to Hostel 1-3 Nikorn Kasem Road, Tambon Thanee, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 063-779-7601

Ta Pui Noodles

Ramkhamhaeng National Museum

Ban Preedapirom (Painting sangkhalok design)

Sukhothai Airport/ Pisanulok Airport

Si Satchanalai Historical Park

912 Kho Ta Liang, Amphur Sri Samrong, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 086-443-2628, 094-714-6145

Ban Prapim Laksamanasilpa (Making amulets)

51/7 Moo 8 Ban Khet Phon, Tambon Muang Kao, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 089-643-6219, 081-197-0535

Sukhothai Garden

119 Soi Sukhothai Nakorn 1, Tambon Muang Kao, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 084-751-1533

Ban Suan King Koi Doi Pui (Making your own ceramics) 170/5 Moo 1, Tambon Ban Lum, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Telephone: 089-484-9136

Lung Joi Restaurant 204 Moo 7, Jarod Witheethong Road, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Open every day from 10 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.

Telephone: 055-620-308

Pa Aed River Fish Restaurant Soi Wat Khooha Suwan, Tambon Thanee, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai.

Open every day from 11:300 a.m. – 11:00 p.m. Telephone: 084-122-6425

Sukhothai Historical Park

Having a Cool Heart in Nan Old Town Most people knew about this province nestled in the hills of northern Thailand and it was the source of the Nan River, one of the principal tributaries of the Chao Phraya. The better transportation and the increasing range of activities offered by friendly local people put Nan firmly on the tourist map. Today, it’s a welcoming place full of history and ideally suited to travellers who are looking for a peaceful place to chill out.

In fact, Nan has become the top destination for thai and foreign tourists. It’s undeniably photogenic – just look at all the photos on social media! Walking in the shade of the frangipani trees that grow in front of the national museum or biking off to enjoy a local dessert at Pa Nim’s or taking a selfie in frontof the famous mural, the whispering lovers at Wat Phumintr. It’s enough to make anyone green with envy.

But these aren’t the only images of Nan we want to share.

We want to shine a light on other attractions like the quaint little shops and local customs unique to the province that make a visit to Nan something you’ll never forget. Maybe you’ll find the experiences here so indelible you won’t even need to take selfies the memories will be written on your heart.

But you won’t know for sure till you give it a try.

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From our previous trip to Sukhothai, you might probably recall that the Sukhothai and Lanna kingdoms enjoyed friendly relations throughout

Leaves a Great Memory in Our heart

much of their history. A visit to the northern province of Nan is certainly reinforce that lesson.

When King Lithai of Sukhothai wedded the daughter of the Prince of Nan, he helped to make close relations between the two realms. In fact, there is ample evidence of the alliance this union forged, whether it is the similarities in the written script that appears in stone inscriptions or the architectural style of certain temples built in Nan

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which clearly reflect the influence of Sukhothai.

famed Buddha image at Wat Phra That Chae Hang

First is Phra Chae Haeng which was built by Phya show unmistakable Lanna and Bagan influence.

Kran Muang to house the Buddha relic presented

Other structures within the temple compound date

to him by King Lithai.

from later times and show Western influences.

Another is Wat Pra That Chang Kham

These include the plaster acanthus leaves made by

Woravihara with its famous chedi built to resemble

Burmese craftsmen, who came to Thailand with the

Wat Chang Lom in Si Satchanalai. And the golden

opening of logging concessions in the country’s

Buddha image known as Pra Puttananthaburi Sri

north. Other elements resemble those typical of

Sakayamuni is unmistakably in the Sukhothai style.

the Rattanakosin (Bangkok) period.

As Sukhothai’s power waned, Lanna influence

And if you stop to appreciate the view of the

became more pervasive. This is especially obvious frangipani trees at the National Museum, don’t in the architecture. The ceramic tiles that cover the

forget to drop off at Wat Noi, another temple with 35

an interesting history. Legend told that when the Prince of Nan welcomed King Rama V to his city, he told his royal visitor that Nan was home to 500 temples. But when an actual count revealed that there were only 499, the Prince instructed local builders and craftsmen to construct a small temple Wat Noi means “small temple” at the base of the Bodhi tree in front of his royal residence.

Next, visit to Wat Phumintr, a temple which has the famous mural depicting of whispering lovers. The name of the painting which includes the Thai words for “grandma” and “grandpa,” in fact comes from dialect words for a young Burmese man and woman.

Other murals that grace the walls of the main chapel here are interesting. Not only they depict scenes from the lives of the Buddha, but they are also a vivid record of the Thai Leu’s life and Europeans present in the region and in the period of King Rama V, when the 36

artist “Nan Bua Phan” painted them.

If you want to see more of this painter’s mural works, go visit another temple Wat Nong Bua because of similarities in or and style, it’s believed the murals were also painted by Nan Bua Phan. Try playing “photo hunt” with your travel companions to guess that is this mural at Wat Phumintr or at Wat Nong Bua? Even more fun is to make a visit to the town of Pua. Travel to the top of Doi Phu Kha, breathe in the mist, and pay your respect at the shrine to Chao Luang Phu Kha, the first ruler of Nan. Then move to Bor Kleua, where you can taste the ancient salt that was once transported to markets in Sukhothai, Chiang Mai, Chiang Tung, Luang Pra-bang, and even as far away as Xishuangbanna in China’s Yunnan province. We guarantee that your memories of this trip will remain so fresh that you’ll never have to do a Google search for information anymore.

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The House of Chao Fong Kham: A Tranquil Place Rich in History The image of a teakwood house on stilts in a The main double structure served as the home of forested setting is enough to calm almost anyone’s

the owner. Another belonged to his children. The

heart. But knowing the history of this beautiful people who worked for the nobleman and his Lanna-style home, learning about the personal family occupied another building. The kitchen was stories associated with its residents, appreciating

housed in another building. And the building in the

the workmanship of the decorative details all front of the compound was for storing rice. You see, enhance the pleasure of your visit to the house of rice played a major role in the life of the home.

Chao Fong Kham. The original residence of Chao

People grew their own rice and stored what they

Sritumma, a descendant of the 6th Lord of Nan

harvested,” Khun Pattraporn Praboripoo, the daughter

gradually passed to one of his great-grandsons, of Chao Fong Kham, who has lived in the house Chao Fong Kham, whom the house is named today.

An outstanding example of traditional Lanna archi-

since she was a child said.

The house also has an extensive collection of

t e c t u re a n d d e s i g n , t h e h o u s e re c e i v e d items reflecting the way of life in the past. But while the Architectural Conservation Award from the

these items may at first glance appear simple and

Asso-ciation of Siamese Architects under Royal quite ordinary, they reflect a rich cultural heritage Patronage. Today it is a living museum open to the

and a traditional of fine craftsmanship. There are

public.

out-standing examples of hand embroidery and

“Customarily, the house of a provincial nobleman

exquisite, hand-woven textiles made by women on

like this one consisted of 6 separate buildings. looms in the cool space under the house.

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History tells us that Chao Fong Kham had been the head of the weavers, responsible for overseeing

a particular color would have to make the dye herself,” Khun Pattraporn explained.

em-broidery and weaving at the court of the

Then she led us down below the house where

residence of the royal heir. Khun Pattraporn sees it

a group of weavers still work today, making

as one of her chief duties to keep these traditional beautiful fabrics on looms in the traditional way.

Everything about visiting to this nobleman’s Nan crafts alive.

“Nan has always been sparsely populated, and house is sure to stay fresh in our memories for people were fairly isolated. Every house had to have years. It is a place that epitomizes the cool, its own loom. We grew our own cotton and had to graceful elegance that defines Nan and its people. weave our own cloth. Daughters-in-law had to weave cloth for their in-laws, their husbands, their children, and themselves. In the past people owned relatively few items of clothing. At New Year’s women would weave cloth to make new clothes that their families could wear and show off at the temple. The styles and patterns varied widely. There was very little imitation. Everything depended on the skill of

Pattraporn Praboripoo

The House of Chao Fong Kham

the individual weaver. New colors were used new styles and patterns as well.

A weaver who wanted 39

Shining a Light on Your Heart: Making Lanterns at Ban Khom Kham On any trip to Nan, whether you go to pay respect the names of the people who offered them. to the Buddha relics at Wat Phra That or visit any

But simply buying one of the ready made

of the other graceful temples in the province. One

lanterns sold near the temple is to fail to experience

thing you’ll notice hanging from the eaves or from

the full meaning of this heart-felt Nan tradition. We

balconies almost everywhere you go is lanterns

recommend that you go instead to Ban Khom Kham

made from Sa (mulberry) paper. Old people will tell in a place called Ban Muang Teet, where Khun you that back in the days before electricity, people

Theeranan will teach you how to make your own

used lanterns to light their homes. And because

traditional Nan-style lantern a one of a kind

these paper lanterns, called “Khom Matao”, lit the

experience you’ll never forget.

homes of provincial noble-men, they were considered

“Matao is a local word meaning ‘watermelon,’”

auspicious. So on major Buddhist holy days, people Khun Theeranan explains. “We call the lanterns made Khom Matao as offerings to the Buddha be-

Khom Matao because they’re shaped like a water-

fore listening to sermons. Even today, when it’s no

melon.” Then she goes on to explain the origin of

longer necessary to rely on lanterns for light after the name of her village – Ban Muang Teet. “This is nightfall, the old tradition of offering paper lanterns an old village, with the age of 275 years. In the past, was revived in the belief that such an offering made this was a fertile area with lots of mango at New Year’s or on a birthday would bring light and

(ma-muang) trees. ‘Teet’ means ‘lots.” So, the village

happiness. That’s why at Wat Phra That Chae Haeng,

was named Muang Teet, which means lots of

you’ll find hundreds of Sa paper lanterns all bearing

mango trees.”

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Before opening her home to people who are interested in making Khom Matao, Khun Theeranan had been a teacher at Talchum Pittayakhom School, where she taught her students to make traditional lanterns. “I wanted all the children in Nan to know how to make lanterns. Later on I got the idea to start a small business, which I called Ban Khom Kham,where interested tourists could come and learn something about the local culture.

“Most of the materials needed to make a lantern are found locally,” she explains. “Bamboo for the frame grows in the forests around the village, and the Sa paper is made in Na Noi district nearby.

It’s sturdy and good quality. I hang it up from the trees outside, and no matter how many times it gets rained on, it doesn’t fall apart. I use black or gold paper for the pattern, which Buddhists call ‘vajra,’ or ‘wisdom’ in English.

“You’ll notice that no matter how you turn the lantern, it always has an octagonal shape. This is an allusion to the 8 magga, or the 8-fold path to enlightenment. As for the tail, here in Nan, it can come in a variety of shapes, but the tails we make at Ban Khom Kham are called ‘jaw’ and they’re

symbolic of victory. They’re also something for the souls of our departed relatives to pull themselves up out of the world of suffering.”

Khun Theeranan also told us that she is happy to teach her craft to groups, couples, or even individuals. All she needs is an advance heads up so that she can prepare all the necessary supplies. She also recommends that you make your lantern before visiting Wat Phra That Chae Haeng.

That way you can experience the pride of offering your own custom made lantern at the temple.

But one last word – it’s a matter of more than just the individual lantern-maker’s pride. Each paper lantern carries with it the intense pride that Khun Theeranan feels in keeping the traditions of her home province of Nan alive for future generations.

Theeranan Doidee Ban Khom Kham

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Custom-made Tung Ka Khing at Wat Prakerd

More than just suits are custom-made. At Wat Prakerd, the long and narrow pieces of cloth associated with Buddhist merit making activities in northern Thailand are custom-made too.

First, it’s necessary to explain that these strips of cloth resembling banners called Tung in Thai, have been a part of Lanna tradition for centuries and come in a variety of forms. Tung Jai, for instance, are hung so that the spirits of those who have passed away can pull themselves up into a better world. Tung Sai Moo (Tung Krading Dao) are planted on the top of replica chedis made of sand and are believed to bring vast wealth, as countless as the grains of sand. And Tung Ka Khing serve to ward off bad luck and ensure long life. As for the name, 43

Darunee Tiensan

Suchada Wacharakhom

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Ka is the Tai Yai word for “equal to” and Khing means

and Thai visitors like making their own Tung. But

“person.” So, the length of a Tung Ka Khing is equal because they believe that the cloths ward off bad to the height of the person who makes it.

But thanks to the ingenuity of Ajarn Khamrob

luck, they hang theirs inside the ordination hall or from the wooden poles used to hold up the Bodhi

Wacharakhom, former director of Nan Provincial tree. The poles are symbols of living a long life. But Technical College, the Tung Ka Khing which made

what I like best about the activity is that we get to

at Wat Prakerd have been given a symbolic meaning pass on knowledge of our customs and traditions that’s deeper than just their length. After looking

to younger generation, and when they make their

into the origins and beliefs associated with these

own Tung, they get merit and blessings in return.”

cloths, Ajarn Khamrob came up with new designs

“In Nan, we’re taught when we were children

resembling human figures and crowned deities

about how important it is to go to the temple. We

withintricate carved patterns. Concealed in the feel peaceful at the tample. It is our spiritual anchor,” designs are 108 Buddhist verses for bestowing

says Khun Tim, another volunteer eager to tell us

blessings. These beautiful Tung Ka Khing became

about the way of life here in this northern province.

an expression of the long-held beliefs at the heart “Everybody comes on a motorbike to help out. of this custom.

It’s a form of meditation and enjoyment. Teaching

And later, when the elders from the communities is fun while earning merit as well.” around Wat Prakerd joined together to make these

Anyone who is interested in having a Tung

new banners, they found an increasing number of custom made to the precise measurements of their tourists, both Thai and foreign, taking an interest

body and soul should let the elders at Wat Prakerd

in the activity and its cultural significance.

know their height and birth year before coming.

Khun Suchada Wacharakhom said, “Foreign 45

Weaving the Fabric of Life: The Weavers of Ban Tam

46

Kasem Junnawat

In this generation, we usually purchase house-

believed that these figures would ward off

hold items rather more than making handmade

dangerous animals and malicious spirits.

items in our daily life. The idea of weaving strips

Gradually, these Ta laew took on additional functions.

of bamboo to make a basket, a tray, a fishtrap or Woven bamboo figures were placed around the chicken cage is likely faraway from us.

edges of the rice field as an act of forgiveness to

It’s similar to make a rice winnowing tray the hard-working buffaloes they used to plow the (herng) or a special basket for gathering

fields. Ta laew were also hung from the earthenware

mushrooms (cha). But in Ban Tam, a small village

pots in which traditional herbal medicines were

in Nan province, these skills remain very much

made to certify that the potions inside had been

alive. That’s due in large measure to the village

made according to age-old recipes and to keep

elders, who have formed their own weaving group

evil spirits from contaminating the contents of the

and whose members meet at the central village

pot. Villagers also hung seven-tiered Ta laew in

pavilion to teach interested visitors how to do front of the homes of the recently departed to weaving in the old-fashioned way.

discourage them from returning and instead seek

From a few thin strips of brightly dyed bamboo, a better place after death. the elderly men and women of Ban Tam work together to help the tourists who visit to weave

Speaking to a group of visitors, one of the

horses, mules or even long-necked giraffes. It

weavers said, “We’ve been making Ta laew for

depends on the imagination of the tourists. In the

generations. At Ban Tam, we want the tradition to

end, they have a charming little souvenir to take

continue.” He shows a clump of bamboo which is

home something that reminds them of their the basic ingredient for making Ta laew. He is cultural experience in this northern Thai weaving

interrupted by an old woman, who tells the

village. But knowing something about the origin of tourists, “Our village is equally well-known for a this weaving tradition makes the experience that

type of fruit tree (madao) that grows here and for

much more special.

its beautiful women. I was one of them, of course.”

In the past, hunters would make a small and

She giggles, turning a fetching shade of pink.

geometric figures which is called Ta laew. It is made “If you come again, I’ll make you some sweets from from bamboo and place them around them to form madao.” a square before they went to sleep at night. It was 47

The Heart-warming Flavors of Nan

Heun Phukha Of all the charming local restaurants found around the province, our best choice is Heun Phukha. It’s the top in terms of atmosphere, taste and enjoyment. Roll a ball of sticky rice between your fingers and dip it into the mouth watering Nam Prik Num a flavorful and spicy chili sauce. Order the spicy Thai salad made from a local fern called Phak Kood. Follow by Moo Tawd Ma-Kwaen, a fried pork flavoured with a spice made from the Indian prickly ash tree, known locally as Ma-Kwaen. In fact, some people say that Ma-Kwaen is the heart of the best cooking in Nan. But what sets Heun Phukha apart from its competitors is more than just the food. It’s decorated with bunches of garlic, onions and chilis hanging from the ceiling above the restaurant. It turns out that the owner is an agriculture official whose responsibilities include supporting the local farmers and promoting the crops they grow. That’s why there’s fresh produce here all year round. It’s an important part of what gives Heun Phukha its distinctive charm.

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Aed Da Saeb Ver Thename of this restaurant might sound a bit weird, especially in comparison with other restaurants nearby, but once you see the menu, your fears will be allayed. Here you can choose from any number of variations on spicy Thai papaya salad, or the famous Somtam. You can have it in Thai style, Laos style, with corn or some other signature style. Besides, there are rice noodles with Nam Ngiew, Khao Soi a regional specialty fried chicken, and northern style pork sausage. On some days, you can also try chili sauce flavoured with water beetles (Nam Prik Maengda), glass noodles fried with fermented sausage (Woon Sen Phat Naem) and other favorites like Kaeng bon and Kaeng phakplang curries made with local vegetables. This is a true home-style restaurant the perfect place to come if you’re tired of the more touristy joints.

Rabieng Din Farmstay and Nan Winery Enjoy the cool breeze on the second-floor balcony of this mud-brick restaurant when sunset comes. There are live musical

performances in

the evening. A culinary highlight is the mushroom curry (Kaeng khua hed thob). It goes beautifully with a glass of wine, made at the winery directly behind the restaurant. According to Khun Nida, owner’s wife and a native of Nan, the winery provides another avenue for boosting incomes of farmers growing fruit in the nearby communities. Both husband and wife have experience with wine production, having lived in France and California. Their expertise has allowed them to produce fruity, easy drinking wines that match perfectly with spicy Thai cuisine.

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Wansook Café No matter how tasty the local cuisine, real coffee lovers must crave a cup of their favorite brew. Yes, it’s time to check out a relatively new place on the coffee scene Wansook Café.

With a range of specialty coffees, Wansook is sure to impress with trained baristas and an owner who really understands coffee.

Of course, you can enjoy all the standards like latte, espresso, Americano, and flat white, but while you’re here, why not try something a bit more unusual, like a pumpkin latte or a cherry passion coffee or a vanilla sky? And once you’ve gotten your drink, you can sit and talk with the baristas at the counter or go upstairs and sit by opened window. It’s a great place to chill.

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Memorable Accommodation

Sound Sleep and Sweet Dreams at a Range of Relaxing Accommodations befitting your stay in Nan

COCOA VALLEY Although cocoa isn’t an indigenous plant and has no connection with Thai traditions, most of us have had a love affair with cocoa and chocolate since the time we were young. Who can say ‘no’ to a sweet chocolate drink, a rich bar of chocolate, or a slice of luscious chocolate cake? On a recent trip to Nan, we took the opportunity to learn about cocoa, the basic ingredient for everything chocolate.

That’s because - believe it or not, in Pua district, there is a cocoa farm!

It’s owned by a married couple named Manoon Thanawang and Jaruwan Jinseng, whose love of chocolate inspired them to learn about how cocoa is grown and how fine quality chocolate is made.

Once they realized that conditions in Nan were 52

conducive to growing cocoa. Khun Manoon and Khun Jaruwan set about renovating the family resort, renaming it Cocoa Valley Resort, and opened the Cocoa Valley Café. These are places aimed at die-hard chocolate lovers who are looking for a place to relax and breathe in the intoxicating aroma of chocolate. Set amidst the green hills of Nan with a view of Pua town below, the café and resort attract the savvy traveller.

Café hoppers can drop in for an oozing serving of choco-late lava cake or indulge in a calorie rich chocolate fondue made from 100% cocoa. People who choose to stay at the resort can take a tour of the cocoa farm and learn all about how chocolate is made from how the cocoa beans are harvested, winnowed roasted and processed into the sweet treat we all adore. In the workshop, visitors can also see other products made from cocoa, like soap and cloth colored with a dye made from the cocoa pod.

(Interesting, right?) The resort will open workshops for non-guests soon. Why don’t you get a chance to know more about one of the world’s best loved aphrodisiacs?

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Srinual Lodge When Khun Srinual’s granson decided to leave his job at a production house and return to Nan, he turned a few simple rooms rented out by his grandmother into a quaint and comfortable lodge. Opened back in the days before the province was even on the tourist map, the lodge with its warm welcome, clean and cozy rooms has led the drive to introduce sustainable tourism to the local community.

Today Srinual Lodge is a favorite w i t h b a c k p a c ke rs . Th e re’s a reason why it hasn’t changed.

Sripanna Resort For those of you who want to chill out in a calm rural setting but don’t want to go all the way out to Pua district, we have the perfect answer. It’s called “Sri-panna”. Where is located near the town but still looks out over lush green paddy fields.

This resort is especially well suited to families with small children because there’s lots of room for the young ones to run and play. For older guests, the rooms are tastefully furnished and very comfortable.

And for shutter-bugs, there’s no dearth of panoramic views to shoot. It’s also just a short distance from Wat Phra That Khao Noi, which sits on a hills overlooking the city of Nan. 54

Oon Ai Mang Na Span There is no better place to chill than this place!

It’s just a collection of simple wooden bungalows on the bank of the Wa, but the queue of booking is quite long here. By word of mouth, Oon Ai Mang Na Span has acquired a reputation for peace and quiet in a lovely setting, complemented by friendly service and simple meals prepared by local women.

Guests can pitch a tent on the bank of the stream and share stories with other like minded travellers, many of them regulars who come back year after year despite the winding and uphill trek to get here.

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Go Where You Like,Stop When You Want, Eat at Your Leisure, And Enjoy a Good Night’s Sleep..

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Nan Airport

Nan Identity Hall

Wat Prakerd Temple (Making Tung Ka Khing banner) Wat Prakerd Tambon Nai Wieng, Muang Nan. Telephone: 081-765-2710

Wat Phumintr Temple Aed Da Saeb Ver Restaurant

25/12 Rat Amnuay Road, Tambon Nai Wieng, Muang Nan. Open 7:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. everyday except Monday .

Telephone: 084-949-9958

Srinual Lodge 40 Nor Kham Road, Tambon Nai Wieng, Muang Nan. Telephone: 054-710-174, 090-015-1692.

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Nan Airport

Phra That Chae Haeng Temple

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Nan Airport

Wat Phumintr Temple

Wat Phra That Chang Kham Temple

Ban Khom Kham (Making lantern)

Hong Chao Fong Kham House

152 Moo 4 Tambon Muang Teet, Amphur Phuwieng, Nan. Telephone: 089-854-0387

Bor Suak Kilns

Nan Sripanna Resort 242 Moo 8 Ban Thung Kham, Tambon Chai Sathan, Muang Nan. Telephone: 054-681-625

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Nan Airport

Wat Nong Bua Temple

Bor Kleua (Salted mine village) 56

8 Sumon Thevaraj Road, Tambon Wieng, Muang Nan. Open 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. (closed Mondays and Tuesdays), Telephone: 054-710-537, 089-560-6988

Ban Tam Weavers’ Village

Moo 6 Tambon Bor Suak, Muang Nan. Telephone: 094-234-4770

Phra That Khao Noi Temple

Cocoa Valley

339 Moo 8, Tambon Pua, Nan: Café is open every day from 9:00 a.m. -7:00 p.m. Telephone: 063-791-1619

Doi Phu Kha Mountain

Kwamnaijai DASTA’s Definition of ‘Creative Tourism’

The role of the Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA) is to coordinate with and provide support for stakeholders in the development of sustainable tourism, of which ‘creative tourism’ is an important component and committed to the mission by allocating resources and responsibilities to ensure that ‘tourism is managed by communities for communities.

Creative tourism in DASTA style, is one of the important strategies in achieving sustainable tourism by engaging local communities and agency network from learning cases and best practices. DASTA is dedicated to ‘Value Creation’ based on Thai identity, way of life, local folk wisdom, arts, culture, and history.

By adding creativity to the local assets, travelers can engage new experiences through hands-on, community-based activities and learn the unique character of the local people and sense of place. Creative tourism helps building communities stronger and bring pride of Thainess to local people and visitors which are the keys to the creation of true sustainable tourism.

Creative Tourism which was selected by DASTA featured here in “Jai Jai” is to create inspiration, creativity and potential. This is our massage that we want to convey at “Jai Jai”. We want to encourage everyone to be “a creative traveler” with curiosity and an open mind. Eager to learn, engage and interact with local experiences and local community in various activities. Lastly, if we understand the concept of creative tourism, we could build a tourism industry and sustainable tourism together.

Mr.Taweebhong Wichaidit Director-General Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA)

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