TWO #24 by Type & Numbers

September 2014 Issue #24 PHOTO

FERNANDO GOMÉZ MAKE-UP IRA

PUBLISHERS Sam Chapman and Nicola Haste (Chapman) ART DIRECTORS Daniel Crawford and Steve Shipley ADVERTISING Aaron Slater AARON@TWO-MAGAZINE.COM ADVERTISING Kate KATE@TWO-MAGAZINE.COM DESIGNED BY

LIZ MARTINS

A make-up maverick with a passion for fashion, music, innovation and creation!

STACEY OAKES

Make-up artist, Pixiwoo course co-ordinator, blogger and PR for Pixiwoo.

RACHEL WOOD

Pro make-up artist that’s rarely in one place for longer than 5 minutes! An editorial,TV and fashion show queen.

FREY–JA BARKER

London based make-up artist and skincare specialist. Lover of all things that sparkle!

CORINNA HARROD

Professional make-up artist and beauty blogger. Worked in non-fiction at HarperCollins.

DR RENÉE HOENDERKAMP

A qualified doctor with a passion for the best non-surgical aesthetic treatments around!

LISA KIRWAN

Professional make-up artist, writer, lover of art, words, music and all things British!

ASHER COLEMAN

Make-up artist, nail tech, fashion graduate and full-time dork! 02

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SUBMISSIO STORIES TH THE SAME OF STYLING

PLEASE DO N

ONS IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SUBMIT PHOTOS PLEASE NOTE THAT WE LOOK FOR STRONG BEAUTY HAT HAVE A MINIMUM OF THREE DIFFERENT IMAGES WITH CHANGES OF MAKE-UP THAT ARE FROM SHOOT. FOR FASHION FOCUSED STORIES, WE PREFER A MINIMUM OF FIVE SHOTS WITH CHANGES G, THANK YOU. PLEASE EMAIL SUBMISSIONS@TWO-MAGAZINE.COM

NOT EMAIL REGARDING WORK EXPERIENCE/INTERNSHIP AS WE ARE CURRENTLY UNABLE TO TAKE ANYONE ON.

i all. When I was young I wanted to be a journalist. Dissuaded by my English teacher I ended up being a hairdresser. 30 years later I’m guest editing TWO magazine, which I feel very honoured to be the first. (Two fingers up to teacher methinks!) Sam, Nic and everyone else on the magazine do such a great job of producing this already, I wasn’t 100% sure how I could add to it without seeming narcissistic. I’m hoping that I’ve just added a glaze to the cherry on the icing of this perfectly baked cake. So what did I actually do? Well, all the great regular features are still here, plus some beautiful shoots to tempt your eyes with. I’ve helped with the cover choice and chosen the video vault plus decided to get some of my mates from the industry to chat with me and give us all an insight into their personal and professional worlds, whether it be funny, serious or otherwise. I think you can only get that kind of info out of people if you know them. Fashion can be fun as well as serious – Lisa Butler take to the stage please!! I hope you find it informative and interesting. I’m getting ready for the next season of work, whilst finally using my newly launched product range (which I’ve narcissistically managed to get featured within this issue ha-ha!). Thank you to everyone who’ve given me this opportunity, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed working on it, I hope you enjoy reading it. Neil. x

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FERNANDO GÓMEZ AND IRA LISA BUTLER WITH FREY-JA BARKER

HANNAH FURNESS AND SUZY CLARKE WINDLE & MOODIE BRIAN ROLFE AND LAUREN BUCKLEY

AMBER EGGLEDEN AND DOMINIC PAUL

WITH RACHEL WOOD

METALLICS BY LISA KIRWAN

GLENN NORWOOD AND REBECCA BRYSON

KERN THOMPSON AND JOYCE VAN IWAARDEN

WITH DR RENÉE

HANNAH MURRAY NEIL MOODIE

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MATT MULHALL

28 12

76 54

94 ISSUE 24 // SEPTEMBER 2014

[ THE END OF SUMMER ]

TWO MAGAZINE September 2014 Issue #24

A URE LI A R E F I N E A N D P O L I S H MIRACLE B AL M Double action balm which uses enzymes to polish off dull skin and transform congested skin. Leave on for five minutes to work as a mask to leave skin brightened and balanced. EST Ă&#x2030; E LAU D E R P E R F E C TI O N I S T FOU N D AT I ON New lightweight, water-based foundation which is infused with Perfectionist youth infusing serum. Softly highlights and brightens the skin whilst providing a medium cover and pigments to mimic natural skin tones. JO MALON E W O O D SA G E & SE A S ALT F R A G R A N C E Fresh, earthy fragrance inspired by the coast. Salty driftwood and windswept sage give a free 08

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spirited, natural scent. Perfect fragrance to take you from summer through to Autumn. TR I SH M c EV OY 24 HOUR EY ES H A D OW A ND L INER Rich cream eye shadow stick which glides over the eye and blends with ease. Super pigmented to provide intense colour. Smudge all over the eye or use close to the lashes for everyday definition. S O I G N É NA IL V A R NIS H Ultra chic nail varnishes which provide a huge colour line up. Varnish texture is smooth and easy to apply with strong colour pigments. Colour wears well and gives nails a vibrant pop of colour. P Ü R L I P PENCIL S Cruelty free brand Pür provides lip pencils with a bevelled tip for precision application. Includes double ended lip brush. R I H A N NA ROGUE M A N Blended by perfumer Frank Voelkl, this masculine scent contains a heady blend of ingredients including black pepper, bergamot and tonka bean that RiRi claims will “Make you wanna steal his T-shirts”.

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// B E A U T Y //

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PHOTOGRAPHER

FERNANDO GÓMEZ

WWW.FERNANDO-GOMEZ.COM HAIR, MAKE-UP & NAILS

IRA FOR GRAFTOBIAN ESPAÑA WWW.IRAMAKEUP.COM MAKE-UP ASSISTANT

ROSA MATILLA MODEL

MARLIES

WWW.TRENDMODELS.ES

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FERNANDO GÓMEZ

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FERNANDO GÓMEZ

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FERNANDO GÓMEZ

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FERNANDO GÓMEZ

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FERNANDO GÓMEZ

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FERNANDO GÓMEZ

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WE HAVE MOVE VISIT OUR NE

12 KENSINGTON CHURCH STREET

0207 937 1993

SHOP@GURUMAKEUPEMPOR

ED PREMISES! W STORE AT

T, KENSINGTON, LONDON W8 4EP

RIUM.COM

GURUMAKEUPEMPORIUM.COM

// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

WEB // WWW.LISABUTLER M AKEUP.COM

PHOTO

SOLVE SU STYLIST

GEORGE CO HAIR

SHAY ASH FOR

VOGUE JA

WHEN I WAS ASKED WHO I WOULD LIKE TO INTERVIEW FOR THIS ISSUE, I IMMEDIATELY THOUGHT OF LISA. THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY LOVES HER, HOWEVER LISA TENDS TO SHY AWAY FROM MEDIA ATTENTION. SHE PREFERS TO LET HER WORK DO ALL THE TALKING. POSSESSING AN EXTREMELY DRY SENSE OF HUMOUR, SHE’S ONE OF THE FUNNIEST PEOPLE I KNOW AND WE’LL USUALLY SPEND A LOT OF TIME LAUGHING TOGETHER. THIS INTERVIEW WAS NO EXCEPTION. NEIL MOODIE 28

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UNDSBO

ORTINA

HUAL

APAN

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// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

here did you grow up and what made you decide to become a make-up artist? In Rochester, Kent. I’d always loved make-up but am so gorgeous I never needed any myself, so decided to apply it to others that do. How did you begin learning make-up? I am self-taught. Is there anybody you would like to be if you weren’t you? Hilary Clinton, Angela Merkel, Gemma from Towie, Mayor of Deal.

Did and does where you grew up have an influence on your work in anyway? I don’t really know. Where do you live now? That is high security information issued only on a ‘need to know’ basis. If you could change one thing in your city what would it be? I think that Dover Council would be much better off

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planting white Geraniums and maybe Lavender on all roundabouts next summer. List your top five favourite beauty products. Sleep, Amber Leaf, Rose wine, sunshine, more sleep. How do you feel the industry has changed since you started? There’s much better snacks on set these days! What are you into right now (music, fashion, art, food)? The guitar, bakewell tart, People Just Do Nothing BBC comedy show, Emily Woodbridge, journalists. Was it hard juggling being a mother of two and work/ travel? No! (Laughs) What music were you into growing up and are you still into it now? Military marching bands, Tubby the Tuba.

PHOTO

INEZ & VINNODH HAIR

CHRISTIAAN ASSISTANT

RACHEL SINGER CLARK FOR

DIOR

PHOTO

INEZ & VINOODH HAIR

DANIEL JACKSON STYLIST

JULIA VON BOEHM NAILS

ANATOLE RAINEY FOR

HARPERS BAZAAR PHOTO INEZ & VINOODH HAIR CHRISTIAAN STYLIST EMMANUELLE ALT FOR VOGUE PARIS

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DAVID BECKHAM FOR

H&M

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PHOTO

SOLVE SUNDSBO HAIR

LUIGI MURENU STYLIST

GEORGE CORTINA FOR

VOGUE JAPAN BEAUTY

PHOTO

FRANCOIS NARS HAIR

PETER GREY STYLIST

PATTI WILSON FOR

VOGUE JAPAN

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PHOTO INEZ & VINOODH HAIR JAMES PECIS

STYLIST NICOLA FORMICHETTI NAILS GINA VIVIANO FOR DIESEL

HELENA BONHAM CARTER PHOTO

MERT & MARCUS FOR

VOGUE UK

PHOTO

INEZ & VINOODH HAIR

CHRISTIAAN STYLIST

OLIVIER RIZZO NAILS

DEBORAH LIPPMAN FOR

MIU MIU SS14

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If you could live anywhere besides where you are, where would it be? Hmmm, I’d rather stay here.

What’s your favourite dessert? Home-made Bakewell tart and home-made vanilla custard ice cream.

Mastermind is an iconic British TV quiz show where contestants are questioned for two minutes on their chosen subject. What would be your specialist subject if you were a contestant? Alan Partridge.

Which four guests (dead or alive) would you invite to a dinner party at your house? Larry David, MC Grinder, Steve Coogan in character as Alan Partridge.

Who or what makes you laugh? Alan Partridge, The League of Gentlemen, People Just Do Nothing.

Do you have a guilty pleasure, if so what is it? Oh Moodie, I don’t feel guilty about anything!

In a film of your life, who would you like to play you? Charlie Chaplin. Who are your favourite designers to wear? Pucci, Isabel Marant, H&M and anyone else I work for or who gives me stuff! (Winks)

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// S K I N C A R E //

BY FREY-JA BARKER

[BL EM ISH CO NT RO L]

DON’T YOU JUST HATE IT WHEN YOU GET A BREAK OUT. IS IT JUST ME OR DOES IT ALWAYS HAPPEN WHEN YOU REALLY DON’T WANT IT TO, LIKE JUST BEFORE GOING BACK TO SCHOOL, BEFORE AN INTERVIEW, A BIG PARTY OR HOT DATE? LOTS OF THINGS CAN CAUSE BREAKOUTS – NOT PROPERLY CLEANSING THE SKIN, TIME OF THE MONTH OR STRESS – THERE ARE COUNTLESS CAUSES. CHANGING YOUR DIET AND LIFESTYLE CAN IMPROVE THE COMPLEXION AS CAN CERTAIN PRODUCTS. HERE ARE SOME OF MY TOP PRODUCTS TO ZAP THAT ZIT!

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DR SEBAGH BREAKOUT FOAMING CLEANSER This cleanser is perfect for those with an oilier skin type that also struggles with blemishes. It’s deeply purifying and tightens pores while helping to control sebum production as well as removing make-up. Simply pump a small amount of foam into the palm of your hand, massage over the face then either wash away or tissue off. CHANTECAILLE DETOX CLAY MASK WITH ROSEMARY AND HONEY This beautiful mask deep cleanses and detoxifies without stripping the skin, leaving it soft and supple. It has a rich dark muddy tone but don’t be alarmed, it will gently wash away after ten minutes. The Kaolin clay absorbs oil while the rosemary purifies and tightens pores. Soothing chamomile and honey make it a great product for those who can be a little sensitive. ESTÉE LAUDER CLEAR DIFFERENCE TARGETED BLEMISH TREATMENT An oil-free topical treatment that really targets blemishes to treat and reduce inflammation, redness and irritation quickly. Not only that but it will also help prevent others developing. It’s best applied as you feel the start of the blemish tingling and growing. The cooling rollerball will help sooth the irritation on application and also minimise germ transfer from your fingers. Remember as temping as it is DO NOT pick and squeeze unless the blemish is 100% ready or else you risk even more infection and potential scarring to your face! ISSUE 24 // SEPTEMBER 2014

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out of the blue PHOTOS AMBER

EGGLEDEN

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AMBER EGGLEDEN

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AMBER EGGLEDEN

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AMBER EGGLEDEN

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PHOTOGRAPHER

AMBER EGGLEDEN

WWW.AMBEREGGLEDEN.COM MAKE-UP

DOMINIC PAUL

WWW.DOMINIC-PAUL.COM HAIR

LOUI FERRY

WWW.LOUIFERRY.COM NAILS

TERESA BOYD MODELS

CLAUDIA

WWW.MANDPMODELS.COM

ROMANA

WWW.MILKMANAGEMENT.CO.UK

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// T R E N D S //

LISA KIRWAN BRINGS YOU THE LATEST BEAUTY TRENDS AND TIPS ON HOW TO DIY T WIT TER // @LISAK1989

METALLICS You wouldn’t be wrong in thinking that this season’s trends consisted of summer rebellion in the form of blue smokey eyes and blown out black liner but there was also another trend that will see out the rest of the summer and will take us perfectly through to those glamorous winter nights. Here’s my take on how to achieve the perfect metallic look, from full on metal drama at Donna Karan to pale pearlescent hues at Gianfranco Ferre, you can decide how you want to shine.

RODARTE AW14 50

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PALE PEARLESCENT HUES Whether your days are spent having lazy summer fun at the park, or BBQs with friends, this is the perfect metallic look for you. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy, beautiful and is the perfect alternative to pastels or bronzed skin. Start with Laura Mercier Metallic Creme Eye Colour in the shade Rose Gold and buff all over the lid blending up and out wtowards the brow. Using a fluffy brush will ensure a wash of colour that will only be seen with a blink of the eye or a flutter of the lashes. Finish off with a brushed up brow, a coat of mascara and nude skin.

DONNA KARAN AW14 MAKE-UP

CHARLOTTE TILBURY HAIR

EUGENE SOULEIMAN

FULL METAL DRAMA Want to amp the trend up and use it for your winter parties? Use Blackground Prolongwear Paint Pot from MAC on a fluffy brush, blending all over the lid and up towards the brow. Then bring full metal drama by adding a touch of Platinum pigment, also from MAC, in the inner corner. Team with lashings of black liner and mascara and a pale, matte skin to really make the eyes pop.

4 ISSUE 24 // SEPTEMBER 2014

Tweet your behind the scenes Instagram style pics to @TWOmagazine

rachelmakeup73

Face of the Future martinhiggs 52

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JoseBassMakeup

BabskyMakeup

Twit twoo rankin

nphoto

leepycroft

wendyrowemakeup for voguejp

Montana for Remington cassiemakeup ISSUE 24 // SEPTEMBER 2014

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F R O M

S I L E N C E

PHOTOGRAPHER

KERN THOMPSON

WWW.KERNTHOMPSON-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM MAKE-UP

JOYCE VAN IWAARDEN MODEL

BONNY SEVERIJNS @AENPMODELS

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KERN THOMPSON

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KERN THOMPSON

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

NAOMI CAMPBELL BY

MERT ALAS & MARCUS PIGOTT FOR

INTERVIEW MAGAZINE T WIT TER // @HANNAH _ MURR AY1

Basic Kit Essentials

HANNAH MURRAY

What was your route into make-up, did you assist? After attending Glauca Rossi School of Make Up I started testing/working immediately to build my portfolio. After two years freelancing and a lot of knocking on agency doors, I managed to get onto assisting teams at LFW working with Kay Montano, Mary Greenwell and Charlotte Tilbury. A couple of seasons later, Charlotte asked me to assist on a Louis Vuitton advertising campaign. I ended up staying for two years as her first assistant. I was so lucky to work alongside her and some of the true greats of the industry. It was the best start to my career, and I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be where I am today without that invaluable experience and exposure.

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

PHOTO

MIKAEL JANSSON FOR

US VOGUE 62

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(TOP) PHOTO

LACHLAN BAILEY FOR

INDUSTRIE MAGAZINE

(BOTTOM ) PHOTO

ALASDAIR MCLELLAN FOR

W MAGAZINE

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

Which one product do you never leave home without for yourself and in your kit? Eyelash curlers and Waterproof Mascara. I know that’s two but they go hand in hand! I feel naked without fluttery lashes! Normal mascara is too heavy for my lashes and waterproof holds them perfectly in place all day without flaking or smudging. How do you feel the industry has changed since you first started? Time is much more precious. Shoots are back-to-back and crammed into less days. It doesn’t allow much time to breathe, explore the ‘look /character’, sit with the picture and really evolve a story. Sometimes creativity gets compromised in order to be time efficient which is a great shame. Alongside the Shooting part of my work life, there’s also a whole other aspect which has become more demanding in the last few years – press interviews, consulting, creating new products, making inspiration moodboards… it’s a lot of juggling with all the travel too. But I wouldn’t change it for the world! As an in demand artist how do you find time to relax? I try to make time for regular acupuncture (for energy and to balance my system), and pilates/yoga for my mind/body. Oh, and I love food so delicious dinners with friends is high on my list of priorities. How would you describe your work? Modern and beautiful with a bold edge. I love to bring out an attitude character in the make-up so nothing is overly-theatrical or untouchable. I want to feel the skin and believe the girl, something a little ‘off’ in the tone/texture pushes it beyond the ordinary. Describe yourself in one word. Intuitive.

PHOTO

MIKAEL JANSSON FOR

US VOGUE 64

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ANAIS POULIOT PHOTO

DANIEL JACKSON FOR

VOGUE TOP LEFT HARBOUR ISLAND, BAHAMAS ALAS DAIR McLE LLAN LAR A S T O NE KAT E PHELAN

AMBER VALLETTA PHOTO

DANIELE DUELLA & IANGO HENZI FOR

ID MAGAZINE

LUKE HER S HE SON J ENNY LO NGWORTH

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Basic Kit Essentials HANNAH MURRAY 66

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// F A V O U R I T E 3 //

N EIL M O ODIE HA I R STYLIS T

BATTERSEA PARK, LONDON One of the most beautiful urban parks I know, 200 acres that has everything. A pagoda, a zoo, a lake, cafe, tennis courts, running track, cricke nature reserve, and the list goes on. I w

FRANKLEY HILLS, BIRMINGHAM I grew up 5 mins from here and Birmi a bad rap, but it’s on the outskirts o beautiful fields and farms with a view city. I’m strangely drawn back to this p later as it reminds me of peaceful tim

WESTMINSTER BRIDGE AT NIGH You can virtually do a 360 turn on tha view is amazing It constantly remin London looks especially when it’s lit u

THE BEACH – A A great escape boo a week. It was sadly disappointing film DiCaprio as an Ame character in the b enough said. INSTAGR A M // NEIL MOODIE T WIT TER // @THENEIL MOODIE WEB/BLOG // NEIL MOODIE.COM YOUTUBE // NEIL MOODIEBLOG YOUTUBE // WINDLEANDMOODIE

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PERFUME BY PA An amazing descriptive book, that ex smell. The most fascinating murder n

THAT’S ANOTHER STORY, JULIE WALTERS BIOGRAPHY One of my favourite actresses who gre I grew up. A fascinating life story from mother didn’t want her to be an actre

et and football pitches, walk my dog there too.

M ingham always gets of the city and its w of the whole of the place all these years mes.

HT at bridge and every ds me of how great up.

ALEX GARLAND ok that I read within y turned into a slightly m with Leonardo erican lead. The main book was English,

ATRICK SUSKIND xplores the sense of novel I’ve ever read.

rew up near where m somebody whose ess.

FESTEN (THE CELEBRATION) It’s a Danish film about a family gathering to celebrate their father’s 60th birthday. This is an absolute emotional roller coaster ride of a film. Genius writing and acting! THE LIVES OF OTHERS A brilliant German Film about the monitoring of East Berlin by GDR’s secret police based around the falling of the Berlin Wall. Won Best Foreign Film Oscar in 2006. PERSONAL SERVICES Julie Walters geniusly portrays a character loosely based on Cynthia Payne who was an English party hostess accused of running a brothel in South London. Made in 1987, it still makes me laugh to this day.

UPSTAIRS AT ERICS – YAZOO Made in 1982, one of my favourite electronic duos from the 80s with Vince Clarke and Alison Moyet defining a major moment in music. DEFINITELY MAYBE – OASIS Their first and best album in my opinion. Perfect rock and roll brit pop that will never date, plus I also did the hair for the Cigarettes and Alcohol video so it has a special place in my heart. PABLO HONEY – RADIOHEAD The first album from this band reminds me so much of a time in London when my freelance career took off in 1992.

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// B E A U T Y //

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PHOTOGRAPHER

HANNAH FURNESS

WWW.HANNAHFURNESS.COM MAKE-UP

SUZY CLARKE

WWW.SUZYCLARKEMUA.BLOGSPOT.CO.UK

MODEL

MILLY

@NEMESIS MODELS

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HANNAH FURNESS

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HANNAH FURNESS

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WINDLE MOODIE FROM THEIR AWARD-WINNING SALON IN COVENT GARDEN, ACCLAIMED HAIR DUO PAUL WINDLE AND NEIL MOODIE HAVE BEEN POURING OVER 30 YEARS OF INDUSTRY KNOWLEDGE INTO ONE INNOVATIVE NEW HAIR CARE LINE. TWO SPOKE TO NEIL ABOUT THE EXCITING NEW PRODUCTS. 76

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PHOTO

JEM MITCHELL MAKE-UP

MAXINE LEONARD NAILS

TRISH LOMAX

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JEM MITCHELL MAKE-UP

MAXINE LEONARD NAILS

TRISH LOMAX 78

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PHOTO JAMES

NAYLOR GROOMING DEBORAH SAUNDERS STONE

ith so many fantastic haircare products on the market, what makes WAM products unique? The market is saturated and there’s no good time to release a product line, but Paul and I have put both of our years of hairdressing experience into this to create what we think is the best line we could possibly produce as opposed to just trying to be the first and latest. The shampoos and conditioners were developed with a skincare specialist as we felt the scalp gets neglected a lot by the general public, so it was important to care for that as well as the hair. They all contain various teas (Rooibos, Green tea, Yerbe Mate tea) that have antioxidants in them, helping to nurture, protect and promote shine in the hair. The teas are supplied to us by renowned tea specialists who have their own ecologically clean plantations around the world. The styling products we created to perform at the highest levels for the salon, catwalk and photographic work. It was difficult to create a natural styling line that worked in all these arenas so we went back

to basics and rigorously tweaked the formulas to exactly how we wanted them to perform. How hands-on have you been in the design and production? The products have taken four years to develop since the first conversation about them. It’s been a labour of love. We’ve been to numerous packaging fairs, sat with chemists for four years, been to factories numerous times, and tested products over and over again until we were 150% happy. Our trusted clients in the salon were

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// P R O F I L E //

testing products for us and giving their feedback. Our salon team have been our biggest critics during the development, but we’ve listened to their every word and changed things if they didn’t like something. I tested products on models, friends and family, making sure they performed exactly how I wanted them to. My friend Nuno Da Costa, a fashion illustrator created the illustrations on the packaging and a design company in Covent Garden called Smith and Co, who had never worked on any kind of beauty line before, created the packaging. We went this route so as not to end up with a generic looking haircare line. How did the partnership with Paul Windle come about? Paul was looking for a session hairdresser to sponsor at London Fashion Week and I’d just finished a editorial freelancing contract with Aveda. He liked my work and I became the Windle Salon Editorial Director. Paul had developed a Windle ceramic straightening Iron around the time of GHD’s emerging and I wanted better electrical tools for my kit so so I offered to help.

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WAM was born there and then. Three years later I became a partner in the Windle salon and following a re-fit it re-opened as Windle and Moodie in November 2011.

“ The PRODUCTS have taken four YEARS to DEVELOP SINCE our

first CONVERSATION. IT’S been a LABOUR

OF love.”

The products are eco-friendly, containing no propylene glycol or parabens, how important was this in the development of the range? The chemist we worked with explained that many of these chemicals aren’t needed to create good products, so we attempted to remove as many as possible. All of our shampoos are also sulfate-free so they’re completely colour safe. Where can we buy them? At our salon, Liberty department store in London and online at www.windleandmoodie.com

PHOTO

JEM MITCHELL MAKE-UP

MAXINE LEONARD NAILS

TRISH LOMAX

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Photography by Keith Clouston

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PHOTOGRAPHER

BRIAN ROLFE

WWW.BRIANROLFE.COM MAKE-UP

LAUREN BUCKLEY

WWW.LAURENBUCKLEYMAKEUP.CO.UK NAILS

BIANCA

@ NAILS IN THE CITY USING OPI WWW.NAILSINTHECITY.CO.UK MODEL

NELL NABARRO

WWW.GINGERSNAP.CO.UK

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BRIAN ROLFE

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BRIAN ROLFE

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ello readers! This month I’m writing about my trip to the UK. As soon as my American feet hit British soil I jumped on the tube and headed into London’s Carnaby Street. Carnaby Street famously known for being the ‘it’ spot of the fashion scene in the 60s is now a favourite destination for make-up and beauty. Besides being awesome for shopping, it will always have a huge place in my heart as I started my career as a make-up artist many moons ago in the area.

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My early beginnings of working as a make-up artist started in the MAC Pro store www.maccosmetics.co.uk Just after I graduated from make-up college, I worked part time on the shop floor whilst building up my freelance work. It was a wonderful opportunity to meet lots of other artists, assist on MAC sponsored fashion shows and network (it’s also where I first met and worked with Pixiwoo’s Sam Chapman). Even today when I meet new aspiring make-up artists I always advise them to work for a cosmetic brand. It is the ultimate beauty boot camp as it’s great for working on various faces of all ages and skin tones while gaining access to playing with products.

Also on Carnaby Street is the iconic Liberty’s of London department store (www.liberty.co.uk). Liberty’s cosmetics hall is pure luxury and its perfumery oozes extravagance. There’s The Makeup Store too boasting an extensive line of products. (www.makeupstore.se) Then there is the Benefit Cosmetics Boutique. (www.benefitcosmetics.co.uk) Now this place is a must when beauty shopping in the area. When first walking into the store it appears to be like any other cute and kitsch Benefit Boutique but walk down the stairs and you will have arrived at a one-stop girly shop of

gorgeousness! There is a blow-dry hair bar, eyelash extension services, body waxing room, a nail bar, spray tan booths and, in my opinion, the BEST eyebrow waxing bar in all of London. Benefit Cosmetics are legendary for their special eyebrow ‘mapping’ technique. And while you are getting pampered you can sip champagne from their ‘Bene-Bar’. But another reason why I heart this place so much as it takes me back to a blast from my make-up past. When I lived in London I had a close association with Benefit UK working as their QVC representative

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for over 5 years. But as well as gabbing away selling products, I headed up events such as the Birmingham Clothes Show and London Fashion Week including shows for designers PPQ and David Koma. Now that I live in New York, Benefit UK have the wonderful Lisa Potter-Dixon carrying the creative flag. I caught up with Lisa on my visit whilst she waxed my brows into shape and asked her a few questions. So what got you into make-up? I was always surrounded by make-up. My Mum was a model when I was little, and went on to own her own beauty salon.

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I also have four younger sisters and would cover their faces in glitter, sequins and Heather shimmer lipstick! How did you start? I started as the Covent Garden boutique manager for Benefit. I had an amazing team. In fact, my assistant manager in the boutique, Lauren, is now my full time make-up assistant eight years later! We over achieved in store because we made everything fun! We really embraced the Covent Garden way of life and our customers loved it. We also worked extremely hard and had so much passion for the brand. At that time, the press offices were around that area so I used to invite press into the store

to get their make-up done before events. They then used to ask me for quotes and tips and tricks for the magazines. After a few years, Benefit created an in-house PR team, I explained what I had been doing in the boutique and, the rest as they say, is history! The position of Head Makeup & Trend Artist (and brow expert) – it’s a long one I know – was created for me.

Week show. Lisa also showed me a couple of great new products Benefit have now in the stores, including the They’re Real! Push-up Liner (an angled pen eye liner which is flying off the shelves) and Majorette, a cream to powder booster blush. Its peachy in color with a gentle fragrance of peach and pomegranate.

After you’re glammed up and exhausted from all that shopping take a coffee She does create amaze-balls brows and break (or should I say ‘tea break’ as it’s my ‘just-got-off-the-plane-jet-lagged- England) and pop around the corner to eyes’ were super grateful. But besides Kingly Court Brasserie on Kingly Terrace doing good brow Lisa heads up loads for a delicious cupcake and a cuppa... of events for the brand, including acting Ahhh thats better! as head make-up artist for designer Matthew Williamson’s London Fashion ISSUE 24 // SEPTEMBER 2014

// B E A U T Y //

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PHOTOGRAPHER

GLENN NORWOOD

WWW.NORWOODPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK MAKE-UP

REBECCA BRYSON STYLING

JAMIE RUSSELL HAIR

JONNY MCKELVEY NAILS

BEX DANE ASSISTANT

BETHAN HUTCHINS MODEL

HOLLIE KEEGAN

WWW.CMPRIRELAND.COM

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// B E A U T Y //

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PHOTOS

GLENN NORWOOD

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// T H E C L I N I C //

I am a true believer in good skin care and we are bombarded with a myriad of skincare options, but what actually works? Do we need to spend so long and use so many creams to care for our skin? Thankfully, the science says not. CLEANSING Cleansing is an essential – it sloughs off dead cells, dirt and excess sebum. That said, we don’t want to damage the skin’s natural barrier when cleansing. Surfactants are the key ingredient in any cleanser and bind with impurities to remove them. The gentlest cleansers are the non-ionic variety which rules out the highly foaming washes but don’t fret: foaming washes are not needed for effective cleansing. Mild surfactants are almost always called for. So how do you know if you’re using the right cleanser? For dry skin opt for low foaming or non-foaming and for all other skin aim for one that is non-ionic. If you’re not sure, just ask! LAST MONTH DR RENÉE DISCUSSED THE IMPORTANCE OF SKINCARE AND NON SURGICAL TREATMENTS COMPLEMENTING EACH OTHER. THIS MONTH SHE DESCRIBES A SIMPLE AND EFFECTIVE SKIN CARE REGIME AND DISPELS SOME MYTHS. FACEBOOK // NONSURGICALCLINIC T WIT TER // @DRHOENDERKAMP WEB // NONSURGICALCLINIC.CO.UK

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The other thing you’re looking for is the right pH – somewhere between 5 and 7. It should be acidic, like the skin, which is a well-publicised 5.5. TONING Nowadays, most cleansers are formulated as above and so toners that lower the high pH. value of traditional soap are redundant – except for when they’re pedalled by cosmetic companies! ANTI-AGING As I always say, 80% of the skin’s extrinsic ageing is secondary to sun damage. So the backbone to any regime is daily sunscreen with SPF 30-50. There is no need to go any higher as the added protection becomes insignificant.

Reversing sun damage and building collagen, promoting other skin growth factors that aid in repair, reducing inflammation and improving the way the skin sheds can all be achieved with the simple use of a retinoid. These are vitamin A derivatives that do all these things – and over time you’ll see fresher skin with fewer wrinkles. If you have acne, you’ll also see a benefit. The best are prescription only. If there is a secret to good skincare, then it’s probably this. And if anyone tries to tell you otherwise, or sell you something fancier, then they’ve missed the point. MOSTURISING This is not essential. If your skin is dry, then it can be useful, but keeping skin very moisturised will not make a huge difference in the long run. For very dry skin, a cream with a higher occlusive content is a good choice. However, if you’re acne-prone avoiding highly occlusive creams is a good idea, along with ingredients like isopropyl myristate. Also, use a lighter ‘non-comedogenic’ moisturiser. Lighter occlusives like dimethicone and lotions with a higher humectant (glycerin, hyaluronic acid etc.) content are a wise choice. And that’s it. Nice and simple: wash with a mild surfactant/acidic cleanser, use sunscreen, a retinoid cream or gel, and moisturise if needed.

“

MOSTURISING IS NOT ESSENTIAL. IF YOUR SKIN IS DRY, THEN IT CAN BE USEFUL, BUT KEEPING SKIN VERY MOISTURISED WILL NOT MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN THE LONG RUN

”

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// M A L E G R O O M I N G //

Where do you who is your ag I live in Baysw studio called K and my agent

When did you to become a h get into it? I didn’t really se into it. My pare interviews whe first one was h until I could w

NEIL MOODIE CHATS TO CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST, MATT MULHALL

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Where did you influence on y I grew up in B Bournemouth hairdressing a traditional class time as I’d wan things but it re the shoots and

live, where is your salon and gent? water London. I have salon/ Kinninmont also in Bayswater is Streeters.

first decide that you wanted hairdresser and how did you

et out to do hair but kind of fell ents got me three different job en I was 16 years old and the hairdressing so I took the job work out what I wanted to do.

u grow up? Does it have an your work in any way? Bexleyheath but moved to at 12 where I started my apprenticeship. I learnt the sic craft which I hated at the nted to be doing more crazy eally helped me later with d shows.

You became more of a specialist in mens grooming, how did that come about and how would you define your style of work? Do you personally do womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair in your salon too? I moved back to London and worked in a hairdresserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for a few years, but decided hair was not for me. I was looking into doing a shoe design course. A friend told me to meet this guy Peter Smith who was opening this really amazing underground salon barbers in Saville Row, he thought we would make a great team. I met him in his salon which was in a massive basement under a Saville Row tailors. It was incredibly cool with just two Charles Eames chairs, two mirrors and the rest of the salon had beautiful one-off 50s, 60s and 70s modernist furniture and artwork. At the time I was a full-on Mod, wore stack heal shoes, kick back flared trousers and had a crazy hair cut.

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My opening line for the interview was “Look, I really don’t think the hair industry is for me and I’m just thinking of giving it up.” Strangely he was sold, as he also agreed with me but wanted to do something completely different. It was great, he specialised in doing men’s hair, working with Comme Des Garçons and Paul Smith for many years. He also had numerous amazing clients in the salon from members of Led Zeppelin, Malcolm McLaren and art director Peter Saville. So that was how I started with men’s hair, I still do womens but have made a name for doing men’s. My style, I would like to think, is always to make things believable, I like things to look believable how ever crazy or normal and I kind of think of the hair as a hat that compliments the outfit. Who or what inspires you? I get most inspiration from people who are kind of outsiders, people that are not touched by fashion or what is going on in the world. They just dress and do their own hair the way they feel good. I even find tramps really creative sometimes!

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How has the in I think the ind last five years w fashion indust being more aw

How do you re How do I switc a tough one. I BMW motorbik

Describe yours I’d think inquis

Your five favou Kiehls silk groo Bumble and Bu Shu Umera Fou Dax Wax Embryolisse La

ndustry changed? dustry has changed lots in the with the internet tutorials, the try getting bigger and people ware of the way they look.

elax? ch of and relax? Ummm that’s think driving my two vintage kes and tinkering with them.

self in one word! sitive.

urite grooming products? om umble Thickening Hair Spray undation

ait-Créme Concentrè

TOP PHOTO

ANGELO PENNETTA FOR GQ STYLE BEN WELLER FOR NUMÉRO HOMME CHINA

PHOTO

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// T H E V A U L T //

…BECAUSE SOME THINGS ARE WORTH WATCHING AGAIN CIGARRETTES AND ALCOHOL – OASIS DIRECTED BY MARK SZASZY AND CORINNE DAY FROM THE ALBUM DEFINITELY MAYBE RELEASED1994

Oasis were one of the Brit bands of the 90s. Corinne Day was one of the most prolific fashion photographers to come out of the 90s. Take a live performance of this song, mix with Director Mark Szaszy (husband of Day) add a large helping of Corinne as Art Director, stir in a few 90s models and some Super 8 footage, then sprinkle with a bit of Neil Moodie hairdressing, garnish with some Virginia Young make-up and add a dressing of Tara St Hill styling. Cook for two days and you have an iconic Oasis video that completely sums up the 90s. I dedicate this choice to my friend Corinne Day who died August 27th, 2010 from a brain tumour. Neil. 104

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LIZ MARTINS

Salon System have teamed up with top make-up artist Liz Martins; whose work includes shoots for Vogue, Elle, Tatler and celebrities Girls Aloud, Cheryl Cole and Shakira. Known as the Lash Queen, Liz has designed lashes for the Girls Aloud Tours and was brought in to revamp the make-up looks on the X Factor in 2010. Now she has brought her expertise to the launch of her very own lash collection â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Liz Martins Lash Enhance, exclusively for Salon System.

DESIGN Explore your creativity, apply individually or layer lashes together in any number of variations for a totally unique and individual style.

SELECT Add volume and length to enhance and define. Natural and intense individual lashes.

THE COLLECTION... ELEVATION Dramatic lash that draws attention to the centre of the eye.

ENHANCE Combines depth and length to enhance and open the eye.

DEFINE Adds volume and definition to lower lashes.

INSPIRE Classic inspired lash with a touch of light.