TWO #30 by Type & Numbers

May/June 2015 | Issue #30

THE VAL

GARLAND INTERVIEW

TONY VELOZ LEILONI COOPER

PHOTO MAKE-UP

PUBLISHERS SAM CHAPMAN & NICOLA HASTE ART DIRECTORS DANIEL CRAWFORD & STEVE SHIPLEY

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ello again after what seems a long break from editorial duties! Liz Martins, guest edited our last issue and sure is a tough act to follow! Thanks again to Liz and all of the amazing contributors we’ve had in TWO.

In this issue, Nic and I were beyond ecstatic to have interviewed the one and only Val Garland. As I’m sure you’re all aware, Val is pretty much MUA royalty and someone I’ve always aspired to during my career. She was such a delight to chat to and it’s wonderful to see someone who is at the absolute pinnacle of the industry being so down to earth. I’m going to apologise in advance for any errors and typos in this issue as the lovely Corinna Harrod, who tirelessly proof reads each issue, is literally about to give birth to her second child as I type this. I’m sure she won’t miss us emailing her about 5 minutes before we go live and asking her to work her magic! We’re sending our best wishes to Corinna and you can too if you like via twitter www.twitter.com/ corinnaharrod As always, we want to thank all the MUAs and photographers who have sent in some beautiful submissions recently. Not all of them make it into the magazine but we do appreciate everyone’s time and effort that ultimately make TWO such a beautiful thing. Sam. x SUBMISSIONS IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SUBMIT PHOTOS PLEASE NOTE THAT WE LOOK FOR STRONG BEAUTY STORIES THAT HAVE A MINIMUM OF THREE DIFFERENT IMAGES WITH CHANGES OF MAKE-UP THAT ARE FROM THE SAME SHOOT. FOR FASHION FOCUSED STORIES, WE PREFER A MINIMUM OF FIVE SHOTS WITH CHANGES OF STYLING, THANK YOU. PLEASE EMAIL SUBMISSIONS@TWO-MAGAZINE.COM PLEASE DO NOT EMAIL REGARDING WORK EXPERIENCE/INTERNSHIP AS WE ARE CURRENTLY UNABLE TO TAKE ANYONE ON.

C O N T R I B U T O R S //

N E IL MOODIE

LI Z MARTI NS

F R E Y–J A B AR KE R

RACHEL WOOD

S T A C E Y OAKE S

HEI DI SCARLETT KI NG

International hairstylist, director of Windle & Moodie Salon /WAM hair tools. Likes Sushi and dogs.

London based make-up artist and skincare specialist. Lover of all things that sparkle!

Pro make-up artist that’s rarely in one place for longer than 5 minutes! An editorial,TV and fashion show queen.

TV Beauty expert (as seen on ITV This Morning, Sky Fitness and Beauty channel).

C OR I N N A H A RR OD

ASHER COLEMAN

D R R E N É E H OE NDE R KAM P

LI SA KI RWAN

Professional make-up artist and beauty blogger. Worked in nonfiction at HarperCollins.

A qualified doctor with a passion for the best non-surgical aesthetic treatments around!

Make-up artist, nail tech, fashion graduate and full-time dork!

Professional make-up artist, writer, lover of art, words, music and all things British!

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Make-up artist, blogger, PR and course co-ordinator for Pixiwoo.

A make-up maverick with a passion for fashion, music, innovation and creation!

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66 MY THREE FAVOURITE… RACHEL WOOD

18 ARTIST PROFILE VAL GARLAND

68 SEVENTEASE MARINA DEAN-FRANCIS AND REBECCA BUTTERWORTH

34 PRIVATE EYES TONY VELOZ AND LEILONI COOPER 46 SKINCARE FREY-JA BARKER 50 TALES FROM THE CHAIR LIZ MARTINS 52 TRANSFORMATION CARMEN RACHEL AND JOANNA V

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THE MAKE-UP ARTISTS MAKE-UP ARTIST, VAL GARLAND, TALKS TO TWO ABOUT MAKING IT IN THE GAME AND NIPPLE TWEAKING!

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WEB // WWW.MASTERED.COM WEB // WWW.STREETERS.COM INSTAGR A M // WWW.INSTAGR A M.COM/THEVALGARL AND T WIT TER // WWW.T WIT TER.COM/THEVALGARL AND

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KATE MOSS FOR ANOTHER MAGAZINE PHOTO COLLIER SCHORR MAKE-UP VAL GARLAND HAIR SAM McKINIGHT STYLING KATY ENGLAND

So are you self-taught? I’m totally self-taught. Wow that’s incredible. I made lots of mistakes! What kind of mistakes? I remember I’d done a few test shoots. There were these two photographers and they had a studio… there was the mini photographer and the big photographer. Then one day the make-up artist didn’t turn up and the big one said oh well,

I’ll take Val. And I was really excited like, ‘I’m going to do make-up for Chris!’ So, I go along and I’m concentrating so much on the face, I want everything to be perfect… the foundation… everything. Finally I’m ready and we go out and he’s shooting with light but in natural daylight. And he’s like “Great. That looks great Val but I don’t feel like her head belongs to her body.” You know, because I was in Australia, she was in a bikini, she was tanned and she had a very sort of creamy face! So I did make lots of mistakes and sometimes you can get so focused on the make-up and you’re so ‘there’ doing it that you don’t actually stand back and look at it or ask questions to the photographer, like what lighting are you shooting in? What would you say is your make-up style now? That’s quite a difficult one to answer. My first reaction would be freefall but I guess a lot of people talk about the skin that I do. I love a liner and I love a lip. I like a graphic detail but I don’t like to do the same thing all the time. That’s one thing when we talk about you… the reason we love Val is because it’s always different. It’s never the same but you know that you did it. That’s why I think I would be absolutely hopeless working on a film. Because you

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What was it that made you want to become a make-up artist? I never planned to become a make-up artist, I was happy being a hairdresser. I used to wear so much make-up, I was like a walking painting and it was different every day. People kept saying to me ‘you should do make-up’ and I’d say no, no, no. I did some tests… a lot my friends were photographers and models – this was in Sydney where I was living at the time – and you know we’d sort of muck around, do shoots and I’d do the hair and there perhaps wasn’t make-up artist so I’d do a little bit of make-up as well. People kept saying to me ‘you should do it’ and I kind of got bullied into it by my friends. After a few times I thought ‘I really like this’ because I like painting and you know I like the expression.

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have to do continuity and everything has to be the same. It’s quite funny because, the other day, one of the girls who works with me at the shows was on a shoot with me. She came up a couple times after I had done the make-up and she’d gone away to do her make-up and said “Has anything changed?” And I said ‘Oh, I did add five beauty spots’ and she said “Oh right, ok, fine.” and I said ‘I do that a lot don’t I?’ and she said “Yes, but that’s the way it is.” You know, it progresses… You start somewhere and then you go somewhere else, so I guess I like change. I’ve noticed you always stop in the right place… Sometimes it’s what you leave off that makes it exquisite not what you put on. I don’t know whether I know that I’ve stopped at the right place. I just think something says ‘stop’. I might do something and then take something away and think ‘actually it looks better now’. Because I don’t think that there should be any rules. Like, there shouldn’t be ten steps to the ‘perfect complection’. That may work on this lady or woman but maybe not on this person. If someone approaches you and wants to be your assistant, what would you look for? I guess first and foremost I look for somebody who’s fast, somebody who

thinks on their feet, somebody who runs, is enthusiastic and can think ahead. What I’m looking for in their book is ‘can they do skin?’ If they can do skin, the rest comes later. You can learn how to do a liner, you can learn how to do a lip… all of those kind of things. But primarily an assistant needs to be my second eyes. Obviously a lot of people, a lot of makeup artists are inspired by you. Who’s your inspiration… who is Val’s Val? I don’t really know. I think my inspiration comes from everything. A lot of the things that I do are very spontaneous. I’m one of those people that might walk in and not have an idea, then look around and go ‘Ok, right, that’s what we’re going to do.’ And so… life! I could be walking down the street and see something. I could be at a car boot sale and see a picture framed and think ‘I’m gonna’ take that, I like the way that texture is or I just like the way that it looks, maybe we’ll use that somewhere. I’m a collector of things. I’m a magpie. Was there a time when you thought ‘I’ve made it’? A couple of years ago I got asked to do a retrospective of my work by MAC cosmetics. I said Really? They said yes, a retrospective of the last twenty years that we have worked with you. And

ID MAGAZINE PHOTO RICHARD BUSH

I thought ‘Oh my god, I must be really old!’ And I thought well maybe I have made a point. That was a good thing. So which person or thing defines beauty for you? I think beauty is different for everyone. It can be anything from history to right now, to maybe something you haven’t seen yet. If I was to think a woman I’d say somebody like Verushka. Because not only was she incredibly beautiful and sexy but she was also a canvas for herself and I quite like that.

FOR

What’s your favourite look currently? My favourite look is whatever works right now. If it looks good that’s my favourite look today. Tomorrow it might be something else and I am very erratic and changeable and everything changes all the time. So my favourite would change all the time but I guess I have to say I love a red lip. I always love a liner! But I like it all. Is there anything that you don’t like? I don’t like something that has been overworked. I like a character but I don’t like a caricature. I’m going to be very

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CAROLINE BRASCH NIELSEN

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controversial now and say that the overworked brow moment – the brow that looks like it’s airbrushed – I’m not really a fan of that. Or the over sculpted face. I love sculpting but I do like a certain realism… I like to feel somewhere in that face I can feel a breath.

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There’s something about that kind of formula to a face that takes the joy out of being individual. But then everybody ends up looking the same. You’ve got the same brow, you’ve got the same sort of sculpting. So don’t get me wrong, I do think

GINTA LAPINA FOR VOGUE ITALIA BEAUTY PHOTO SØLVE SUNDSBØ MAKE-UP VAL GARLAND HAIR SAMANTHA HILLERBY FASHION EDITOR/STYLING

CATHY KASTERINE

there is a definite place for that type of sculpting but it needs light. You need to be on a catwalk, on a stage, in a studio. When you see that kind of make-up in real life often I think it just looks like too much make-up.

I think now everything is open. It’s just a different world, it’s a completely different world. I guess you’re more ‘on’ now than you were before. You know, there used to be that sort of inner sanctum that was the hair and make-up room, where we’d have a good old gossip with the model and talk about this, that and the other, then she’d go out onto set. But we’re all kind of mic’d up or there’s backstage photography all the time… so I do think there’s a slight loss of that intimacy that you once had. But it’s just a different world and it’s just a different way of doing things. Do you think it’s harder or easier for

What’s the one bit of advice you’d give to somebody starting out? I would say definitely get your social skills together, you know, get your face everywhere. Learn who everybody is. Make sure you know who the agents are, that they know who you are. Be prepared to work 24/7. Work for passion not for money. You know it’s not about money, it’s about passion. Assist everyone that you possibly can because by the time you’ve assisted ten people you’ve got ten different styles plus your own style and then that helps you. So be ruthless and relentless in your goal. Is there one product that you can not be without? Mascara. Absolutely.

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How do you think that the industry has changed since you started? I started in the 80s and we would do one shoot in a week on an island. The model would perhaps have to get a sun tan so I’d have to lie beside her because there was nothing I could do. But back then we didn’t have social media and all those kind of things. So there was a lot of mystery and magic around the industry which was great.

make-up artists starting out and also for top make-up artists? I think it’s a bit of both. I think, because you have social media, you can plan your own career online here and have your own voice and that can be great because you can rack up loads of followers and become famous. So I think in that respect it’s very good but also there’s a lot of make-up artists doing that so you need to have another niche that makes you a little bit more special. So is it any easier… is it harder? I think it’s probably about the same. You need to be in the right place at the right time and for somebody to give you a chance.

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Any particular one? For me, I use about five mascaras as I have awful eyelashes, but I think it’s a personal preference. At the moment I’m using a new one from Bobby Brown. I always use a Clinique one – the one that’s like a little banana because it gets close to the lashes and then I’m using a L’Oréal one.

I have to ask this question. Whose face have you touched that you thought was amazing? I think that there has to be only one… it’s the legendary iconic La Moss. She’s my absolute number one beauty icon of all time. Her face is incredible and she can wear any period make-up and it looks amazing. There’s something about Kate’s face. The camera just loves her face even without any make-up on at all. Her bone structure is just… boom! She’s a girl’s girl. She’s incredible to work with. I love that one you did with her, it was really Bardot-esque, it wasn’t even that long ago. It was Vogue, on a beach… Oh, can I tell you a story about that? OK, I’m going to mention everybody’s name. It was myself and Sam McKnight, we were booked to do British Vogue, we knew it was Kate. Patrick Demarchelier was taking the pictures and Lucinda Chambers was the stylist/fashion editor.

So we’re travelling there and have to get on a little boat to St Barts where we’re doing the shoot. We come through to baggage control and Sam and my bags haven’t arrived. And we’re thinking, well you know it’s St Barts and it’s bound to be a bit ‘beachy’. We could be OK if our kit doesn’t come because it (the look) can be beautiful skin. And so we get there, no bags, no clothes and Lucinda says “I want to do a really full on Bardot look. I want lashes, liner, lipstick, sculpting. I want to see a hairdo.” Sam and I were like ‘Oh god, what are we going to do? We don’t have out kit.’ So basically it was a trip down to the local chemist for a plastic comb and a portable hairdryer. I got all of the girls together to empty out their make-up bags so I could just pick something from each, and we did it.

What has been your favorite job that you’ve ever done? I think all my years working with Alexander McQueen. That would have to be the absolute favourite moment in my career. Because he was just so inspirational. It was just challenging and fantastic to have been a part of that. I recently got asked to do a mask that Lee had commissioned me to do for Bjork, for a fashion show where she was performing, and one of the great legacies of working with Lee is that I remade this mask and it’s now on the

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TAYLOR SWIFT FOR VOGUE PHOTO MARIO TESTINO MAKE-UP VAL GARLAND HAIR JAMES PECIS STYLING

LUCINDA CHAMBERS

show in the MoMA in New York which is pretty amazing.

CARA DELEVINGNE FOR VOGUE PHOTO MARIO TESTINO MAKE-UP VAL GARLAND HAIR CHRISTIAAN FASHION EDITOR

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We went to the savage beauty exhibition recently and we were just so blown away. When we walked around the exhibition I sort of felt a bit sad that I did n’t realise quite what a genius he was. It was just real art. It’s breathtaking and so emotional. I think it should be a permanent exhibit as it’s just phenomenal.

Well what else is new for 2015? I’m doing an online course. It’s called Mastered and started this May, so that is very exciting. I think it’s the first time a course of this type has been put out there online so I’m really enjoying it. The course targets existing makeup artists and helps them… it’s kind of life coaching for them to help them further their career? Yes. It’s sort of troubleshooting. It’s not about putting on an eyeliner or putting on a lipstick, it’s about how do you get be in the sort of position that I’m in. How to behave, what’s expected of you, how do you decipher a brief. It’s more about the job of being a make-up artist.

LUCINDA CHAMBERS

Mentioning no names of course, can you tell us a funny industry related story? I was living in London and was already established as I was doing the Alexander McQueen shows and feeling pretty good about myself. I got booked to do a shoot and was told there was going to be eight high profile models. One girl per page for a leading British Men’s Journal. So, I’m there with the hairdresser when another make-up artist arrives and then another hairdresser! W W W.T WO -- M AGA Z I N E.CO M I S S U E 30 // M AY– J U N E 2015

Anyway, I was on the phone to my agent sort of saying I think we should leave but I don’t want to be unprofessional when the first model arrives. She’s not a model I recognise. Then the next model arrives and the next and it becomes apparent that the shoot is about glamour models and they’ll be wearing no clothes apart from a G-string. I was handed a bucket of ice to prepare and tweak! I was so flabbergasted and so shocked that I actually did it! I’d spent so long talking to my agent – as did the hairdresser – procrastinating so much that the other hair and make-up artists had left. We couldn’t leave the shoot – it felt too unprofessional. So there I was tweaking the models nipples!

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TONY VELOZ

PHOTOS

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T ON Y V E L O Z P H O TO

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TONY V EL OZ

P HO TO

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T ON Y V E L O Z P H O TO

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TONY V EL OZ P HO TO

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PHOT OG R APH E R

T ONY V E L O Z

WWW.T ONYV E LO Z.CO M M AK E- U P

LE I LONI C O O P E R

WWW.LEILONICOOPERBEAUTY.COM HAI R S T YL I S T

KENNISHA FORD MO D EL

COU R T N E Y H O F F

MODELOGICWILHELMINA.COM

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C L E A N S I N G //

F RE Y- JA BAR KE R

Recently, a gorgeous teenager and her lovely mum joined me in the studio to go through some skincare with them. Mum wanted me to give her daughter some extra advice on how to look after her skin as, let’s face it, who did what their mother said when they were a teenager! We talked about a lot about cleansing the skin and how quick and easy it can be to just to reach for a packet of wipes. I find this is common with all ages as we have become a society of busy women constantly on-the-go. However, the wipes are not a quick fix and they never properly clean the skin. They may be acceptable on the very odd occasion, such as when travelling or if home late after a night out when it’s that or nothing, but they do not truly cleanse the skin, they just smear the make-up and dirt around a bit. For healthy bright clear skin real cleansing is essential.

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WORDS

So, here are some of my top methods of cleaning the skin without having to use countless products:

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MICLE AR WATER

These are appearing every where you look and are a great alternative to wipes. Not only do they remove make-up but they remove the days impurities too. Acting almost like a magnet they lift away impurities from the skin and onto the cotton pad, that includes everything make-up, grease and dirt. Leaving your skin feeling fresh.

skin. Made with rosehip and dragons blood it smells devine. As you add water it magically turns into a milk and washes every thing away in an instant, leaving the skin soft and supple. C L EAN SIN G G EL

A favourite of mine. Used in the shower in the morning, it wakes me up and leaves my skin make-up ready. It’s great for people who wish to feel a little more squeaky clean and fresh.

Try Caudalie Makeup Remover Cleansing Water. It is made with grape seed and camomile and is perfect for all skin types as it’s hypoallergenic.

Murads Essential-C Cleanser has tiny orange beads that burst, releasing and leaving traces of vitamin C, A and E on the skin to protect it from pollution, free radical damage and sun damage. It leaves your skin fresh and revitalised.

C LE ANS ING OIL

C L O T H F L AN N EL

Personally, I’m a big fan of cleansing oils and not using water to clean my skin. Oil cleansers are brilliant for oily and blemished skins too as they don’t over-strip the skin. They remove all traces of make-up including stage makeup as one of my fabulous drag queen best friends will confirm.

There’s a new kid on the block when it comes to cleansing and I have to be honest I’m not 100% sure how I feel about it. I cant decide if it’s genius or just weird!

One recent discovery that I am loving is Su-Man Cleansing Gel-Oil. It starts off as more of a gel cream that melts into an oil as you massage it into the

The Makeup Eraser is the size of a flannel and made of a material that when dry feels like a fleece jumper. To use it you require no other product, no cleanser, it’s completely chemical free. Simply wet it under running water and wipe your face. It removes all traces of make-up

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49 including waterproof mascara. If I’m honest, when I tested it I could not believe my skin was actually clean so after using it I grabbed my oil cleanser and a pure white cloth but nothing more came away from my face. It had done the job all on its own! It’s brilliant for those that are supersensitive to product or for those that wear a lot of make-up and want it quickly off the face without messing about.

Maybe I’m old school but I personally would still follow with a traditional cleanser of your choice to ensure skin is truly clean but I still can’t believe how well the Makeup Eraser works. Go and find out what works best for you. My golden rules are: 1. Cleanse at least every night. 2. Moisturise every morning 3. And always wear an SPF.

THE CHAIR LIZ MARTINS shares INSIDER tips and tales in HER exclusive COLUMN

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INSTAGR A M // WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/THELIZMARTINS

T WIT TER // WWW.T WIT TER.COM/THELIZ M ARTINS

Jet lag has become my nemesis! It has been a travel packed couple of months with NYC beckoning in May – and what a fun filled trip! However, flying is not my favourite pass time and my skin isn’t a fan either. Lucky for me, I discovered Dr Jackson – a skin whizz and apothecary genius! I’m totally in love with his products and especially his Face Oil 03 that’s packed with natural oils and good stuff. My skin was left sumptuous by the end of the flight! His Coconut Melt is also genius for taking off make-up, or used as a moisturiser – basically a one stop shop! Whilst in NYC I managed to visit the Björk exhibition at the MoMA. If you are a fan you will love it. For me though, the highlight was seeing Val Garland’s exquisite diamond mask, so intricate and detailed – a true work of art! Of course a trip to the Big Apple is not complete without a mandatory visit to Ricky’s, Sephora and Alcone for all things make-up related. I love Ricky’s for make-up storage/bags and Ben

Nye Banana Powder (a must in these Kim K obsessed times). And I couldn’t leave NYC without visiting my favourite Brit hair guru abroad, Kenna at Kennaland, Brooklyn! His lovely crew of hair angels (Cathy Ennis) keep my mane in totally mint condition.

One of the best fashion campaigns we shot last month was for KOOVS. It was a lovely team and we got to shoot all over London and the vibe was really chilled. Make-up was lived in and natural, just how I like it, so lots of bare skin (crème de la mer skin tints is MAJOR for this) and little details like an ‘undone’ liner (nothing too precise) and berry lips. Which brings me to the latter half of this month mainly spent travelling between London, Warsaw, Prague and Budapest for F&F clothing. We did three Catwalk shows in three cities along with hair maestro Aaron Carlo. The look was luxe and cool, beautifully polished skin, a ‘groomed’ brow, touch of mascara (just for a little definition) and a full-on dark cherry lip which really complemented all the gorgeous brown suede and autumnal knit wear that was being shown for autumn/winter 2015! Right I’m outta here… Summer is upon us! Liz x

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I love shooting beauty and got to shoot with Jonny Storey back in May. I really enjoy playing with colour and stencils – using different shapes on the face to create fun effects – this is when I am most happy – I used my favourite MAC Chromocake’s for this as the colours are amazing and they don’t move once they’re dry.

PHOTOS JOANNA V MAKE-UP CARMEN RACHEL

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JOAN N A V

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JOAN N A V

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USI NG L I T COSMET I CS AND YAB Y F OR B L UR MAK E UP ROOM W W W .P L UTI N O GRO UP .CO M ASSI STAN T

CORA S UR GEONER M O DE L

S ETH A TWEL L

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Instagram snapshots of the pros at work and play.

@patmcgrathreal Busy Busy!! #BTS #TheLook at @LouisVuitton

@BabskyMakeup ALWAYS a thrill! #007 #JamesBond #PinewoodStudios

@thelizmartins Royal Opera House Ladies First!

@spobtastic View f rom my workstation today. #lovemy job

@smashboxuk Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s masterclass time @boxpark with @muajaninebird

@davide_cossu Super gorgeous @nadjagiramata @alicetemperley

@andrewgallimakeup Sand and deliver @voguechinamagazine

@caradelevingne Everything is fun when Miss Moss is around

@kjbennettbeauty Having a moment with the glamazon

@EmilyMake_up Vans x USLU Collaboration

@karlapowellmua @karlacosmetics campaign shoot

LIZ MARTINS

Salon System have teamed up with top make-up artist Liz Martins; whose work includes shoots for Vogue, Elle, Tatler and celebrities Girls Aloud, Cheryl Cole and Shakira. Known as the Lash Queen, Liz has designed lashes for the Girls Aloud Tours and was brought in to revamp the make-up looks on the X Factor in 2010. Now she has brought her expertise to the launch of her very own lash collection â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Liz Martins Lash Enhance, exclusively for Salon System.

DESIGN Explore your creativity, apply individually or layer lashes together in any number of variations for a totally unique and individual style.

SELECT Add volume and length to enhance and define. Natural and intense individual lashes.

THE COLLECTION... ELEVATION Dramatic lash that draws attention to the centre of the eye.

ENHANCE Combines depth and length to enhance and open the eye.

DEFINE Adds volume and definition to lower lashes.

INSPIRE Classic inspired lash with a touch of light.

PLACES BROOKLYN, NEW YORK

Capri, Italy Goa

Home sweet home. Super artsy with more grit than gloss. Bustling with awesome restaurants and bars, I rarely go out in Manhattan anymore.

SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL Planning a visit this year as it’s where my boyfriend’s from. He’s introduced me to its culture and I’ve been trying to learn Portuguese in preparation.

CAPRI, ITALY

MY Three FAVOURITE… RACHEL WOOD

An enchanting island encompassing hikes blossoming with flowers and boat rides into hidden blue grottos. The food is THE BEST I’ve tasted in Italy – lemon cream pasta, tiramisu and broccoli rabe pizzas – mmm!

BOOKS PILLARS OF THE EARTH – KEN FOLLETT Historical fictional tale of religion, love and corruption. I applaud the authors use of strong female characters in his novels.

WEB // RACHELMAKEUP73.COM INSTAGR A M //

INSTAGRAM.COM/RACHELMAKEUP73

T WIT TER //

TWITTER.COM/RACHELMAKEUP73

GIRL WITH THE DRAGON TATTOO – STIEG LARSSON It took me three attempts to get past the first 50 pages but once I did, I couldn’t put it down! I read the two sequels straight after.

FRONT ROE – LOUISE ROE Lifestyle book written by my client and friend TV presenter Louise Roe, I wrote a few blurbs in the beauty section and it features ‘Rachel’s turkey burger’ in the recipes.

MUSIC USE SOMEBODY – KINGS OF LEON But my favorite version is by Pixie Lott – angelically sung with acoustic guitar.

WISH YOU WERE HERE – PINK FLOYD I travel so much, plus my friends and family are scattered… reminds me of missed loved ones.

“RUNNING” 1.INTRO – ALAN BRAXE & FRED FALKE Instantly takes me back to dancing in the sunshine on a beach in Ibiza!

LEGALLY BLONDE – ROBERT LUKETIC (2001)

MAKE-UP

I know it word for word with quotes like ‘don’t stamp your last seasons Prada shoes at me honey!’ It’s my ‘happy place’ movie.

THE GODFATHER (I&II) – FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA (1972 & 1974) Pacino, DeNiro and Brando – the trifecta. I’ll cook up a big Italian meal, pop open red vino and watch them back to back.

ROMEO & JULIET – BAZ LUHRMANN (1996) Pure eye candy. Stunning styling and Leo DeCaprio and Claire Danes are babies! I still always cry at the end.

MARC JACOBS MASCARA I’m a big fan of his make-up line and I heart how this formula coats lashes.

GLYCELENE - SEMI SOLID BODY OIL Creates glossy hydrated skin and actually all of their products are incredible – vegan, quality ingredients and no gmos.

VELOUR FALSE LASHES 100% cruelty free, 100% luxurious. My red carpet choice for lashes and my celebs go bananas for them!

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FI LM S

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P HO TO GRAP HE R

M A R I N A D E A N -FRA NCIS WWW.MARINADEANFRANCIS.COM M AK E - UP

R EB EC C A B U TTER WORTH WWW.REBECCABUTTERWORTH.COM

J O D I E A U S TE N

HAI R STYL I ST

@PEACHY STYLIST WWW.JODIEAUSTEN.CO.UK P O S T P RO DUCTI O N

M DF R ETOUCHING

W W W. M D F R E TO UCHI N G.CO M

M O DE L

B E TH A N M A YE

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P H OT O S

MAR I N A DEAN- F R AN C I S MODEL WEARS // EARINGS: RIVER ISLAND, NECKLACE: VINTAGE, T-SHIRT: H&M

P HO TO S

M A R INA D EA N-FRA NCIS MODEL WEARS // NECKLACE: ZARA T-SHIRT: H&M

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P H OT O S

MAR I N A DEAN- F R AN C I S MODEL WEARS // EARINGS AND NECKLACE: VINTAGE, T-SHIRT: H&M

P HO TO S

M A R INA D EA N-FRA NCIS

MODEL WEARS // EARINGS AN T-SHIRT: H&M

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WEB // WWW.LYNDSAYLILLYKEYS.COM

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INSTAGR A M // WWW.INSTAGR A M.COM/LILLY_ KEYS

LILLY KEYS

What was your route into make-up? I started make-up fairly late, at 27. I was always good at art in school and went to graphic design college before I decided I would rather paint faces. In 2005 I was made redundant from my job in PR and used that money to put myself through makeup school at London College of Fashion. While at college, I met a successful make-up artist through friends, who brought me on as her assistant for one of the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top girl bands. I also worked at Bobbi Brown as an associate which really helped me understand products and different skin tones and faces. I then started assisting top make-up artists for fashion week in London, Milan and Paris, and it just spiralled on from there!

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STEPHEN BURRIDGE FOR SUPPLEMENTAIRE MAGAZINE

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CHLOE PAUL

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PARISA WALKLETT FOR 1883 MAGAZINE

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PORTIA FREEMAN

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CHLOE PAUL

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PARISA WALKLETT

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JOSIE GEALER FOR TOPSHOP

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PARISA WALKLETT

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PARISA WALKLETT

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STEPHEN BURRIDGE

Which one product do you never leave home without? I would feel totally lost if I ever left my Bioderma Crealine at home! This hero product is used by make-up artists all over the world and cleans skin without dehydrating. I also use it with cotton buds to correct make-up, and of course to remove make-up after the shoot.

As an in-demand artist, how do you find time to relax? Shoot days can be extremely long and hard, especially if we’re shooting on location somewhere. On my days off I tend to catch up on my admin (not very relaxing!) but I do try to hit the beach or do hot yoga in the evenings if I can. A GOTHIC HOUSE IN I have two children so NYC SOMEWHERE don’t really ever have a day off! MERT & MARCUS KARLIE KLOSS EUGENE SOULEIMAN CAMILLA NICKERSON

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How has the industry has changed since you first started? I feel it’s extremely competitive now, especially in London and New York. It’s very hard to support yourself while starting a creative career (particularly make-up) as lots of your test shoots will be unpaid. Social networking is huge these days, and the ‘Glam Squads’ of celebrities are often celebrities themselves. There are a lot more people trying to get into this industry now than say, 20 years ago. Back then, make-up artists would jump straight from college to a distinguished agency. That would never happen now.

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JONNY STOREY FOR HIGHLIGHTS MAGAZINE

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PARISA WALKLETT FOR 1883 MAGAZINE

“There are A LOT MORE people trying to get into this industry NOW than say, 20 years ago. Back then, make-up artists would JUMP straight from college to a DISTINGUISHED AGENCY. That would never happen now.”

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LILLY KEYS

01 Bioderma Crealine 02 Embryolisse Lait-Crème Moisturiser 03 Laura Mercier Primer 04 Sisley Golden Dry Oil 05 Nuxe Lip Balm 06 DHC Olive Oil Cotton Swabs 07 C hanel Lift Lumiere Foundation 08 Rodial Bb Venom Skin Tint 09 Make-Up Brushes – MAC, Bobbi Brown, Sephora 10 Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Makeup 11 Nars Concealers 12 Estée Lauder Maximum Coverage Face & Body Foundation 13 Topshop Lipsticks – Various 14 Topshop Red Lip Paint 15 MAC Crushed Metallic Pigment 16 Bobbi Brown Eyeshadow Palettes X 2 17 MAC Eyeshadow Quad X 2 18 Tom Ford Eyeshadow Quad 19 MAC Eyeliner In Graphic Black 20 Nars Eye Colour Duo X 2 21 Nars Translucent Powder 22 Eyeko Skinny Brush Mascara 23 Eyeko Brow Gel 24 By Terry Creme Eyeshadow Stick 25 MAC Mineralise Skin Finish 26 MAC Blush – Various 27 Illamasqua Contour Powder 28 Tom Ford Illuminate Cream Bronzer & Highlighter 29 MAC Pearl Highlighter 30 Smashbox Eyebrow Wax & Powder Duo 31 Duo Lash Adhesive 32 Topshop Tweezers 33 Shu Emura Eyelash Curlers 34 Lash Strips By Andrea 35 MAC Lipsticks (Various) in Muji Container

11 10

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PU RE PASTEL P H O TO G R A P H E R

GARAZI

W W W.G A R A Z I .CO.U K HAIR & MAKE-UP

B E C KY H U N TI N G

B EC K Y H U N TI N G M A K E U P A R TI S T. C O M MODEL

ZANA

BOSSMODELMANAGEMENT.CO.UK

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GA R A ZI

P HO TO

PHOT O

G AR AZ I

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Photography by Keith Clouston

TRENDS SS15 //

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FLASH BULB SKIN

Step aside contouring; you’re no longer a big deal! It’s all about your fairer sister highlighting for SS15

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VERSACE SS15

W ORD S HEI D I S C A RL E T T - K I N G

It’s not just the dewy, fresh skin we see in the shows but a pearly radiant glow that gives a wonderful, luminous halo over the face. With so many designer greats such as Stella McCartney, Marni and Versace sporting the trend, here’s my take on mastering this perfect skin trend look.

the minute is Smashbox Step By Step contour kit in shade Contour. Lightly brush under the cheeks with an angled blush brush and around the jawline. Next, tap the Giorgio Armani light master again along the top of the cheekbones, nose bridge and on the Cupid’s bow to give the extra bang.

FIRST LIGHT

CORRECT AND PERFECT Keeping the skin base natural, apply Lancome Miracle Air de Teint. This foundation gives a sheer to medium coverage in natural matte texture, great for allowing the highlighted skin to show through without the rest of the skin to look ‘oily’. Add Urban Decay Naked skin liquid concealer to any blemishes and around the eye area. I simply love the ‘second skin’ look this concealer gives without looking heavy.

SPOTLIT Add a dash of neutral coloured contour powder to lightly bring the highlight products to full view. My favourite at

FINAL TOUCHES Curl your lashes and add a dramatic mascara like Rimmel Scandaleyes Flex for serious volume. Add some definition to the brows with Tarte Colored Clay Tinted Brow Gel to give a naturally defined brow. The clay particles fill in small gaps superbly well. A touch of a neutral and glossy lip tint like YSL Tint in Oil in shade ‘I Rose You’ or ‘Peach Me Love’ for darker skin tones to enhance the overall face glow.

WEB // WWW.HEIDISCARLETTKING.COM T WIT TER // WWW.T WIT TER.COM/HEIDISCARLET TK

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After moisturising, blend Giorgio Armani Light Master primer along bridge of the nose, cheekbones, brow bones and in the front part of the face near the cheeks. This gives a stunning radiance and also takes away any redness to the skin.

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PHOTOS DOMONICK GRAVINE MAKE-UP MOISES RAMIREZ

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D O M ONICK G R A VINE

PREVIOUS PAGE // LEFT ARM UPPER ARM: ARMBAND MIRIAM HASKELL LOWER ARM CUFF: LULU FROST BRACELET: A PEACE TREATY BRACELET: LELE SADOUGHI BRACELET: NOIR JEWELRY CUFF: LELE SADOUGHI CUFF: MIRIAM HASKELL

THIS PAGE // LEFT HAND INDEX FINGER: A PEACE TREATY AND H&M MIDDLE FINGER: ABBY CARNEVALE JEWELRY AND MIRIAM HASKELL RING FINGER: A PEACE TREATY AND NOIR JEWELRY LITTLE FINGER: WE WHO PREY RIGHT HAND INDEX FINGER: MEREWIF JEWELRY AND ABBY CARNEVALE JEWELRY MIDDLE FINGER: WE WHO PREY AND NOIR JEWELRY RING FINGER: A PEACE TREATY AND MIRIAM HASKELL LITTLE FINGER: PSYCHE JEWELRY RING IN MOUTH: WE WHO PREY

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RIGHT ARM CUFF: MIRIAM HASKELL CUFF: LELE SADOUGHI BRACELET: A PEACE TREATY CUFF: RUE GEMBON CUFF: MIRIAM HASKELL

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NECKLACE, RAJÉ BY RANDY LUNA EARRINGS BY RUE GEMBON

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D OM O N I C K G RAVI N E

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M OI S E S R A M I R E Z U SI N G O C C

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S T E PH O N J A M ES

WWW.STEPHON-JAMES.COM HAI R

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W OR DS RA CH E L W O O D

ou know what they say, “What happens in Vegas, stays in… my column!” Yes, this issue I’m going to be talking about the city of sin – Las Vegas, Nevada. I’ve been to this hedonistic haven several times and, though I was there to work, it was challenging not to get sucked into the Vegas vortex. The labyrinth of hotels that line the famous “strip” purposely confuse those who dare to enter! No clocks will ever be found on the casino floors for a reason… they want you to forget what time it is and keep playing! It’s even rumoured that fresh oxygen is pumped into the air to keep gamblers alert. The bells and whistles of money being won sing out to tourists like a sirens song, but it’s not only gambling that Vegas is now known for. If it’s entertainment you like then Vegas is the place for you. Top names such as Mariah Carey (a former client of mine) and Elton John have all set up show residencies for a time. Or if you want the ‘tribute’ version of these acts it’s not hard to find your favourite star performed in drag.

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Cirque du Soleil (www.cirquedusoleil. com) also have various shows along the strip as well. Vegas is now trying to market itself as the Ibiza of America with many of the major hotels hosting mega clubs. such as Light (www.thelightvegas.com) in The Mandalay Bay hotel. Performers swing from the ceiling as dance music blasts and video screens flash along its walls. If Hip Hop is more your jam then check The Bank in the Bellagio Hotel (www.thebanklasvegas.com). If you like to party in the sun then the

MGM grand hotel maybe the spot for you (www.mgmgrand.com). The MGM host parties with world renowned DJs such as Tiesto, Steve Aoki and Calvin Harris. Make sure you visit the Hakkasan restaurant and club while you are there too. The Asian fusion menu is out of this world and the tequila shots are monstrous (www.hakkasanlv.com). Speaking of food, if you’re a foodie then you’re in for a treat in Vegas as you can gorge on anything. From all-you-can-eat $1.99 breakfast buffets to Michelin Star restaurants. Prime Steakhouse is a firm favorite amongst carnivores in Vegas.

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(www.bellagio.com/restaurants/primesteakhouse.aspx). There are tons of promoters in Vegas who can help arrange your vacation. From cars to reservations to VIP status at the best spots. If you’re planning a trip, be sure to check out Let Loose Vegas (www.letloosevegas.com). I recently flew to Vegas to work on some shoots. The team and I shot some editorials as well as some images for a desert art and music festival called Further Future (www.furtherfuture. com). We stayed about 20 minutes

outside of the Strip in an area called Lake Las Vegas. This area is awesome for those who crave more athletic adventures such as hiking, horseback riding or water sports. Glam started everyday at a nauseating 2am so we would make it in time for sunrise. It was worth the ungodly call time to catch the colors and light of the morning sunrising sky. Shooting in the desert can be scorching by midday so it was crucial to shoot as much as we could before noon. Here’s a video clip https://vimeo.com/125065544

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I kept my models skin hydrated after a long day with Karelen Dry Oil (www. karelen.com), a fast drying and non greasy essential oil. Karelen Dry Oil is silicone, paraben and mineral-oil free. It comes in a variety of scents and my favourite is the coconut. It can be used in the hair and on your scalp too.

And of course don’t forget to stop by the A Little White Wedding Chapel to see where many of the rich and famous, such as Britney Spears, got their quicky nuptials (www.alittlewhitechapel.com). You never know, you just may end up throwing rice on your favorite celeb!

INSTAGR A M // WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/RACHELMAKEUP73 T WIT TER // WWW.TWITTER.COM/RACHELMAKEUP73

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SAM YOCUM

WWW.WHITEWHITEBLACK.COM HAIR & MAKE-UP

DONNA FUMOSO

USING KEVYN AUCOIN FOR MAKE-UP AND OSCAR BLANDI FOR HAIR WWW.NEXTMANAGEMENT.COM STYLIST

RORY McDONOUGH

WWW.RORYMCDONOUGH.COM MODEL

ANNA ALBREKHT

WWW.NEWYORKMODELS.COM

ALL JEWELLERY BY ANNACHICH, CYNTHIA RYBAKOFF, LANA JEWELRY AND SUZ SOMERSALL

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PHOTOGRAPHER

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P H OT O S

SA M Y OCU M BLOUSE BY REISS VINTAGE HAT AND CHAMPAGNE PERRIER-JOUËT BLUSH PUMPS BY CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

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LACE BRA BY ELLE MACPHERSON INTIMATES CARDIGAN BY VINCE

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PHOTOS

SA M Y OCU M

BRA BY LA PERLA CARDIGAN BY VINCE

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BLOUSE BY REISS BLUSH PUMPS BY CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

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P HO TO S

S A M YOCUM

SWEATER BY HELMUT LANG

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BLUSH PUMPS BY CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

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sensuality and relationships with women often becoming socially reclusive and giving up activities such as swimming and gym because they fear hair loss will be accelerated or discovered.

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WITH DR RENÉE HOENDERKAMP

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Hair loss for women can be catastrophic. Dr Renée Hoenderkamp explains some reasons and remedies for hair loss. Society seems to accept and embrace male hair loss; at a certain point a man can shave his head and no-one looks twice. Not quite so for women. 8 million women in the UK suffer and there is a definite stigma attached. It can lead to loss of self-confidence and heightened self-consciousness. It can also affect

The best way to understand hair loss is to think of a garden: some plants are growing, some are fully grown and then they die. 90% of our hair is in the growing stage (anagan) and this can last anywhere from 2 to 8 years. The other 10% is either resting (telogen), lasting 3-4 months, or is in the transition phase (catagen) where the hair follicle shrinks and the hair falls out. Most hair is therefore growing and on average 15cm a year! Anything which upsets this cycle can lead to hair loss and balding; medication, illness, infection, stress or chemicals all have this potential. Most people lose on average 50-100 hairs a day and nothing will stop this, so avoiding washing hair or swimming won’t keep it there. So how do you know if your hair loss is excessive? You may have clumps of hair on your pillow or in your brush, you may find hair covering clothes. The pattern of baldness women see may also differ with hair loss all over but maintaining the front. They may notice more scalp when their hair is pulled back.

The most important first thing to do is to seek medical advice to test for things like thyroid or auto-immune diseases, skin conditions or other manageable illness that once corrected could remedy the hair loss. Your GP may refer you to a Dermatologist. There are many things that can help: Scalp medications which contain minoxidil work for 1 in 4 women but can take several months for effects to be seen.

Minimise stress which can contribute and create a cycle as the hair loss increases stress. So make a real effort to have de-stress activities. Try and make sure you are eating a diet balanced in minerals, protein, and

Think about disguising or covering up with wigs, hair extensions, scarves and make-up. There are some excellent products out there, although not inexpensive. If your hair loss is extensive (more than 50%), you could qualify for an NHS wig. Find out more about NHS wigs. And don’t despair, whilst regrowth is unpredictable and can take years, much female hair loss is temporary. And finally, be careful. This is a big money making area for unscrupulous people who will claim to have the magic cure. Don’t be taken in: there are no magic cures. For a patient leaflet covering treatment and management suggestions visit www.bad.org.uk/shared/get-file. ashx?id=1975&itemtype=document

FACEBOOK // FACEBOOK.COM/NONSURGICALCLINIC T WIT TER // TWITTER.COM/DRHOENDERKAMP WEB // WWW.NONSURGICALCLINIC.CO.UK

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THE MOST IMPORTANT FIRST THING TO DO IS TO SEEK MEDICAL ADVICE TO TEST FOR THINGS LIKE THYROID OR AUTO-IMMUNE DISEASES, SKIN CONDITIONS OR OTHER MANAGEABLE ILLNESS THAT ONCE CORRECTED COULD REMEDY THE HAIR LOSS

vitamins; high in fish, nuts, vegetables and fruit.

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PHOTOS MAXYME GAGNÉ

ETHEREAL

MAKE-UP MAYILLAH EZEKIEL

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DRESS: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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M A XYM E GA GNÉ

P HO TO S

BLAZER: CALVIN KLEIN

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P HO TO S

M A XYM E GA GNÉ TOP:TOPMAN COAT: DKNY

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P H OT O S

MAXY M E G AG N É

DRESS: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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DRESS: EVE GRAVEL

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COAT: BEN SHERMAN

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P H O TOGRAP HE R

M A XYM E GA GNÉ

W W W.M AXYM E GAGN E M .W I X.CO M M A K E -UP AN D HAI R

M A YIL L A H EZEKIEL

W W W .M AYI L L AHM AK E UP ARTI ST.CO M LO CA TI O N

S TU D IO GIOV A NEL L I M O D EL

A DR IA NE

W W W .F O L I O M O N TRE AL .CO M

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SHAVING I always use Geo. F. Trumper shaving cream that I apply with my Geo. F. Trumper badger brush. I do love Curzon Street in London where they are based and there are other great shops, especially for fitted suits, shirts and a good pair of socks. Burlington socks are probably still my fave.

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I currently use the Gillette ProGlide. The make-up team on ‘Legend’ got me onto that specific blade.

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FRAGRANCE

T WIT TER // WWW.T WIT TER.COM/STEPHEN _ LORD

STEPHEN LORD ACTOR

My wife loves Jo Malone products and now she has got me into the male range. I almost always buy something from Jo Malone when I am at the airport.

MOISTURISER I really like Dermalogica or Elemis

STEPHEN IS CURRENTLY moisturisers as well as their other STARRING IN THE TV SHOW products, be it eye cream or sun PENNY DREADFUL screen, as I trust both brands. I had

a Dermalogica facial in Liberty’s last year which was great. I should book another appointment!

AFTERSHAVE I recently a got a nice gift of a Viktor and Rolfe Spice Bomb aftershave and for my 40th I got a lovely scent Amouage from a good friend.

HAIR

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To wash my hair I use Kiehls shampoo. I’ve just cropped all my hair off for a role in the film ‘Strangeways Here We Come’ but more recently I used Brylcream to grease hair up for ‘Penny Dreadful’ by the brilliant John Logan, which is out in May.

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