#45 / 06 / 2014
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Editorial Dear VANGARDISTS! Welcome to this month’s BEAT issue, which is all about the modern-day phenomenon of music festivals. Music and dance already existed long before humans had even developed spoken language, so it makes sense that we should still be captivated by these forms of communication. More than ever, we’re fascinated by the possibility of escaping the loneliness that comes with being an individual by losing ourselves in an unconstrained collective mass for a brief instant and, in the process, effortlessly re-define social norms and overcome the barriers of nationality and language. These lines have been written by me some time before the Eurovision Song Contest. Before Conchita Wurst has shown with her winning entry that we can actually define new standards and create new boundaries with music. Her performance was more than just a song. She has touched people's hearts and gived many others courage. And to live courage is the core message of VANGARDIST. In addition to the phenomenon of music, we report on which festivals you can lose yourself with your friends this summer. We also recommend you products that will protect your beauty in the harsh world festival, and what you should not miss in case of a possible visit. All-rounder Huy Dieu has, among other things, already organised his own festival and has now turned his focus on fashion design. We’ve quizzed him on his sources of inspiration, what type of hipsters will follow the current ones, and Pomme des Garçons, the food blog he writes for. Hoping you’ll enjoy our musical BEAT issue are, Julian Wiehl and his dancing VANGARDIST team
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Holy beat
COVER STORY
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Festivals as a substitute for religion
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Feel the beats, keep the looks on tour
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Holy beats
Festivals as a substitute for religion
Text: Klemens Gindl illustration: ruth moosbrugger
Open-air festivals are more popular than ever, no matter whether they’re in California, Crimea, or the Scottish hinterlands. And there are obvious reasons for this. It goes without saying that live music beats listening to your Spotify playlist by a mile. That it’s fun to spend entire days getting drunk in some nice outdoor setting, maybe even take some pills, then party with like-minded people till you drop is also something plenty of people could agree with. On the downside, all this fun involves quite a bit of stress and strain, and your average festival campsite can be compared more to a refugee camp in Mombasa than the kind of place you’d fork out a triple-digit sum of euros for. And so, in your more lucid moments, you may ask yourself: Why the hell am I doing this?
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Th e s t r a n g e r in your tent So let’s be honest, when viewed objectively, lots of things about festivals are really not that pretty: The mass mudcamping without proper sanitary facilities, which by the end of the first 24 hours in the blazing heat guarantees an olfactory experience rivalling that of sitting in a cesspool; the completely sloshed lost souls tripping over your tent strings in the middle of the night and then just passing out on top of your tent with you still inside it and having to hold out until the snoring zombie comes back to life; the overpriced beer and the sunburn and serious bruises from getting crushed against the stage barriers. So what in god’s name is supposed to be so great about this? The simple answer is, exactly these things! Or rather: that special state you only enter at festivals, where all these adversities don't matter any longer, and which for many of us is the perfect way to see in the summer and/or spend it.
L e t ’ s h av e a l i t t l e anarchy please Interestingly, it’s usually the bestorganised festivals with the biggest headliners, the highest concentration of portaloos, and the most trustworthy food stalls and tattoo joints that prove to be the least fun, and there’s an underlying reason for that. Of course we want to see our favourite bands live (by the dozen), be able to get cold beer and have impressively-sized cheeseburgers for breakfast; and obviously we’d prefer not to take home a case of severe hepatitis along with that stupid tattoo we got while completely off our face. But at the end of the day, the
actual experience that we’re all looking for when we go to a festival requires a certain amount of filth, anarchy, and individual (ir)responsibility—or in other words: the ecstatic and happy-making sensation of being part of a spontaneous and non purpose-oriented collective. It’s a sensation that money can’t buy, and it can’t be arranged or rationally created.
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Th e c o m m u n i t y feeling It might sound a bit esoteric, but this is actually all about a basic element of social life that in our post-modern work, performance and consumer-oriented society has been pushed to the margins by our guilty conscience: community, or more generally speaking, society. Not in the abstract form used in academic discourse and political, legal, or economic debate, but as the kind of palpable "you and I" relationship that forms utterly spontaneously simply because you, as a human being, are in the company of other human beings sharing a communal experience you’re all enjoying. The reason anarchy is such an important driving force at a festival is because it’s an essential prerequisite for this kind of communal experience. The collective activities here have no higher purpose or meaning to them beyond the sheer joy they bring.
Th e r e i s s u c h a t h i n g as society One of the reasons for the consistently growing popularity of the likes of Nova Rock, Fusion and Burning Man—a popularity manifesting itself in the fact that these festivals are getting bigger and bigger, with newer ones springing up every year—might be the fact that we’ve more or less banned the abovedescribed form of communal experience from our everyday lives. Maggie “Iron Lady” Thatcher’s famous phrase about there being “no such thing as society” wasn’t just the kind of cynical statement you might expect from a ultra-conservative, free-market worshiping prime minister in the 80s; it was also a kind of dark prophesy that has long been a reality. We’ve become so goddamn individualistic that we usually only socially interact with others when improvement of the tireless little one-(wo)man economic enterprises we have turned ourselves into is in order,
and pastimes like going to the gym, the office’s holiday do, or an art opening are more often than not a strategic performance in self-optimisation. Money can’t buy me happiness DasThat’s nothing new, especially in our Western world moulded by Protestant ethics, where "idleness" of doing something for no other purpose than gaining pleasure and enjoyment from it has always been regarded as a kind of sin. The difference today is that we lack one essential thing our ancestors could always count on for emotional balance: being part of a religious community. And not necessarily because of
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the spiritual aspect, whatever shape or form it might have come in, but because of the experience of collective religious celebrations and rituals and of belonging to something motivated by a thing that’s bigger than ordinary life and survival. What we now have instead is leisure time, which most of us like to fill with an activity that consists of a lot of individuals paying to be individually entertained: consumption. One might argue that purchasing a festival ticket is also nothing more than an act of consumption, but the product we’re buying with this ticket – namely the privilege to be entertained by our favourite artists – is actually just a side effect. What we really want is to spend a few days with like-minded people playing in the mud, screaming, drinking, dancing, snogging, and shagging, with music serving as a nice backdrop for it all. ‘Cause back home in your little backyard you can’t really do that.
Liberté, egalité, f r at e r n i t é Don’t worry, we wouldn’t go so far as to claim that the current festival tourism-hype is actually a new form of religion, but it is quite conceivable that this kind of experience might have elements in common with a collective act of religious worship or a ritual: In both cases, people are brought together by something bigger than just personal acquaintance, and they celebrate that fact with everyone around them without giving a monkey’s about where these strangers are from, what they do in real life, whether they’re rich or poor, gay or straight, black or white, man or woman. This general feeling of equality is one of the essential ingredients of the intoxicating feeling of happiness you get at a really good festival—and it can be characteristic of religious gatherings.
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Because, as is laid out in classic sociology of religion, this is precisely the function religion has: to enable people to be part of, and actively experience, a sense of community. According to sociology, in our everyday lives the concept of community remains an abstract construct that only becomes palpable and real in places where its members are simultaneously engaged in the same activity. In order to achieve this, we have to leave these everyday lives with their established hierarchies and clearly defined roles, surround ourselves with fellow human beings, and “worship” a thing, cause or idea in a situation of utter equality. Our worship can just as well be directed at a common god as at something else, like— say—rock music. Because in truth, the thing we worship is nothing but the spirit of community itself.
F e s t i va l s a s a substitute for religion Rituals and religious celebrations are the glue that holds a community together, in that they reconcile its members with the hardships and injustices they suffer every day. And let’s not forget that a whole world of possibilities for social interaction can open up by temporarily giving up on your social status and celebrating with everyone around you. Especially in our world, strongly marked by our consumerist and service-based culture in which everything is viewed as a commodity, there’s a deep need for alternative communal experiences. If, on your way to the festival, your car gets stuck in the mud, there’ll always be someone nearby to pull you out, and generally you don’t even have to ask people for their help, let alone pay for it. In the same spirit, you yourself would never dream of refusing to
give one of the beers your car boot is filled with to the person who’s thirstily knocking on your tent, and hugging a complete stranger who just happens to stand next to you and who you think looks cool is nothing out of the ordinary. Science has coined a term to describe this type of collective buzz: communitas. You can witness it during sanctification ceremonies at St Peter’s square, in the streets of Muslim countries during Ramadan when people break their fast together at night, during voodoo rituals, in Good Friday processions—and at good open-air festivals.
Diving headfirst into the mud Everyone who’s now sniffing at the supposedly heretical implications of what was said above, calm down: VANGARDIST is not proclaiming a new religion, nor planning to erect a Glastonbury cathedral or conjure up a holy trinity of Metallica, Anthrax, and Slayer with this article. The bliss of directly experiencing a spirit of community between human beings is something that can exist independent of the thing they’re jointly celebrating. What matters is only that everyone is more or less looking for the same thing—or at least that they believe they are. On that note: Get your wellies and a few crates of beer ready, check out our “How to Survive” article for the festival that bests suits you, and go have some fun!
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VANGART
Grounding A Lost Mind
photos by joel sossa TEXT: Andrew Ütt / photos: joel sossa
Joel Sossa is intent on showing us his life. His blog candidly describes his images as “Memories from a Lost Mind”. So this article intends to pick apart and examine this Lost Mind in order to identify the spirituality that’s inherent in Sossa’s photographs.
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To be honest, when we first saw Joel Sossa’s work, we immediately thought of the new generation of free-spirited photographers (see our last issue's profile of Joseph Ohlert, for instance) whose concept, à la Ryan McGinley, is to capture images of their beautiful friends in the wilderness. Some of Sossa’s images are, in fact, almost identical to those of McGinley, so our first associative reaction is an appropriate response. However, after conversing with the Guadalajara native, it becomes evident that although the style of this young photographer is to some degree a repetition of today’s muchloved snapshot photography, Sossa's conceptual development has led to a
more holistic vision of the way we view our world; a vision that, in a way, can be described as ageless rather than specifically youthful. El Pequeñito (the little one) Sossa began his photographic excursion through life when he received a camera from his father. As we commonly are at a young age, he didn't have many particular interests at that time, but he took a liking to the camera and began taking photos during his free time. The camera became his tool for comprehending the world around him and understanding the way he himself was growing up and becoming an individual. However, taking a pretty photograph and truly thinking about what sort of photography one wants to create are two different things, and it took another event for Sossa to find his true photographic path. One day, Sossa’s mother showed him a snapshot from a family album of him as a child getting ready for school. The image evoked in him strong memories of the house where he and his family lived at the time; Sossa remembered the smell of the house and a flood of other details. Seeing this photograph helped him recognise the power that lies in photography.
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This sudden and powerful blossoming of memories inspired him to capture everything in his life in this way. “And when I say everything, I really mean everything,” Sossa declared. All he wanted to do was take photos—photos of life in its entirety, no matter what the topic. Slow down there cowboy There’s something special about being a prolific photographer. There's the need to have the ability to understand what one observes. Our eyes are open from the moment we wake up in the morning until the moment we sleep, but it is impossible to have an objective view of the things around us which our eyes constantly see. So, when someone attempts to capture their own life through still shots of decisive moments, you can then begin to identify and understand the world through their eyes. With time, Sossa’s exuberantly prolific art evolved into a more conceptual art. Last year, Juxtapoz magazine featured some of Sossa’s images on its website, describing them with a vocabulary similar to that which is often used to describe McGinley’s work: “delicate”, “subtle emotion”, “innocence”,
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and “adventure”. These are terms that may symbolically refer to a youthful, free-spirited being exploring the daunting and illuminated world around him. But when we asked Sossa about this description of his work, he replies: “My work is like a beautiful dream that you don’t want to wake from. It’s this dream where you feel good with yourself and you’re at peace and for me, being at peace is true freedom, which is what makes my photos intimate. They try to reflect those little moments where you have contact with yourself and where you experience feelings that words can’t describe, and well, the same as when everything that sounds good ends, you wake up with this sensation of nostalgia. This is why my photos are also charged with some nostalgia. They give the viewer this sensation of ‘I’d like to be there with that sunset, where everything is tranquil and peaceful.’” He then adds: “The freedom that I show is a mental freedom. It is more of a spiritual than an earthly freedom.” Ajax In Greek vase painting there are two main types: red-figure and black-figure. Black-figure painting uses black clay pigment to create figures on a red
clay pot and began first in the pre-classical Archaic period. Scenes on these vessels commonly referred to preparatory moments before a dramatic event. Red-figure painting began in Early and High Classical Greece and uses black pigment to outline figures which then appear red against a dark background. This technique commonly showed an intense dramatic tension—the moment of action. There is a beautiful black-figure painted vase of the warrior Ajax planting his sword in a mound of dirt. Achilles has just been killed in battle and Odysseus— not Ajax—has been selected to lead the Greek army. The planting of the sword is preparatory; it is the moment of spiritual thought prior to throwing himself upon his weapon. In Sossa’s images, we bounce between the imagery of Archaic and Classical Greece. There are moments of pause. A serene moment when one knows that the future is simply destiny and it must be wholly accepted. And there is an active moment—a kiss of smoke that leaves only carcinogens separating the kissers’ lips. The drama of Sossa’s photographs prepares us for action—for those moments when we launch ourselves upon the sword of life.
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All for naught? Now that we’ve been put in a properly spiritual mood after such pensive discourse, there still remains something of a bitter aftertaste of our initial, yet lingering, doubts. Spirituality is an internal enterprise and though previous photographers have ventured to breathe spirituality into their images and forms, it remains only in our minds; it fails, or rather, struggles to reveal itself completely in our physical creations. In the end, this leaves us with an unattainable concept buried in pretty photos. So, through the eyes of Joel Sossa we may envision moments of delicate innocence and intimacy, but more than that, we see photos of youth absorbed by the kind of freedom that the soul readily couples with and that comes without burden. It is neither holistic nor without age. Sossa now defines his photographs as “documents of my real life” and he hopes to continue showing his work as it progresses. Maybe our eyes will, from time to time, linger on his depictions of one life gradually coming of age.
You can view the further development of Sossa's ideas and concepts on his blog, which is steadily updated with new images.
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ON TOUR
Buy the ticket, book the flight, and get ready for an adventure like no other. Music festivals around the globe are the new “it” destinations, giving the word “getaway” a new meaning. There is a festival for every musical gender, and the options are limitless, so basically it depends on what you expect to witness. From the neo-hippie crowd in Coachella to the electronic craziness of Tomorrowland, stages light up for the music fans...
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Text: Juán D. Zamora
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Music makes the people come together! But why are music festivals so popular nowadays? The reasons are endless. First, they come as a celebration that summer is finally here and we can enjoy the nice weather under the sun. They have become the best option to travel, because not only do you get to know a city but all the cultural manifestations it has as well, from food to social interaction. Sharing with people you don’t know, but with whom you have things in common, is the ultimate reason to consider going to a festival. The power of music makes different people come together, gathering to celebrate talent. Music is the international language, and if you don’t know a song or its lyrics, or even the language it is sung in, its vibes can still make you jump, cry, or feel happy. Ready, Set, Go! How to chose the perfect festival to attend? Well, that is a personal matter that depends on your musical taste, budget, and the type of experience you want. From the mythic Woodstock to Vienna's Donauinselfest, the largest music festival in the world,
there is a wide set of choices for you to choose from. Some festivals attract attention due to the uniqueness of their concept, the kind of crowd they convene, and the aamazing line ups they offer. Fasten your seat belts and get ready for a musical tour around the globe. Coachella in style. The most popular musical festival in the U.S. nowadays combines top artists, the Californian sun, and the most “hippie-chic” crowd in the world. If music festivals were social networks, this one would be Instagram: a place to see and be seen. Some people say this event is where rich people go to pretend they are hippies for a few days—we don’t know if this is a good or a bad thing. Beyond the fact that Coachella is a musical and visual event where you can easily find yourself dancing next to Beyonce, every year it gives its audience an epic line up that brings the artists of the moment to its stages. In 2014, it had performances ranging from Beck to Calvin Harris, and from Lana del Rey to the Pet Shop Boys, mixing different crowds in the
Š Jason Bryant
Glastonbury
Coachella
Š The Bull Pen
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same space. This year’s performance by Pharrell included special appearances by Gwen Stefani, Snoop Dogg, and Nelly. So don’t be surprised if you get more than you expect during the festival.
find Glastonbury, the biggest greenfield festival in the world. With around 175,000 people attending every year, this event is the British version of Woodstock, and strongly influenced by hippie ethics.
Coachella is one of those cases where it’s better to have some help from an agency, due to the high level of public interest it sparks. Online tickets for Coachella can all be snapped up in an instant, so be ready and check the dates when they go available if you really want to go. Also, during the festival there are some special events sponsored by different brands, and it won’t hurt if you can have access to the poolside lounges they have.
The kind of performers that take the stage at Glastonbury are not as commercial as other festivals (sorry Coachella), making it an interesting and unique opportunity to explore new and different music scenarios. Even with all the hippie fame the festival has, 2014’s line up is impressive, mixing both conceptual artists and performers that are en vogue right now: Kasabian, Foster The People, Kelis, Blondie, M.I.A., MGMT, and Goldfrapp are just some of the names that will take over the stages for this event.
Another important part of this festival is art. Huge interactive sculptures can be seen around the venue, making being there an experience like no other. In general, going to Coachella is like living the cliche of the American dream: music, freedom and art under the Californian sky. Glastonbury, the hippiest of them all. Gerade Just on the threshold between bohemian and commercial, we
Before planning your trip to Glastonbury, you have to realize that music festivals aren’t only about music. If you are staying at a place for at least three days you need to think about clothes, food, and accommodation. First of all, be aware that you will have to deal with extreme weather changes. From sunny to rainy and even snowy,
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those days at the festival can be a nightmare if you are not prepared. You can find a lot of choices to eat at good prices, and if you want to avoid the long lines at the bars, just take some bags of wine with you. Alcohol is allowed to bring into the festival.
Coachella
Don’t expect too much from the camping and the bathrooms. Everything is really muddy and mud fights can start at any moment, so be ready to get dirty. A recommendation: study the map. The site where the festival is held is huge, so you need to find a
ryone should live through at least once in a lifetime. Maybe it´s not for all kinds of audiences because of the hard conditions you are under, but with the right amount of energy, alcohol and good company, you are sure to enjoy this event.
Š Alanpaone /
place to camp that allows you to go wherever you want without losing too much time. You can camp basically next to the stages, but that is not a good idea. Due the quality of its performers, Glastonbury is an experience eve-
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Republic KaZantip
KaZantip Republic, the imaginary country you want to live in. You may have heard about Crimea on the news, but what you don’t know about this mind-blowing place is that it becomes the perfect setting for one of the most intense and energetic music festivals in the world. For about two weeks every year, part of this peninsula in the Black Sea becomes the Kazantip Republic, a country that has
its own rules for its citizens: be yourself and have fun! While other festivals focus on their line-ups, Kazantip is all about the good vibes and a “be yourself” way of living. The location it is held at is privileged itself, and the setting, with all its water sports and extreme activities, is something you have never seen before. There are some rules about respect you have to follow in
© Vyacheslav Argenberg / © Dima Bushkov
order to stay in the “Republic”, and the “free love” philosophy is everywhere. Maybe that is the reason why people are so friendly. That, and the amount of alcohol they typically imbibe. Another important thing about this event is that it allows new talents to show their skills on the decks, becoming a place to discover the DJs that will rock the world in the next few years.
Now there are some things you should know about this “magical” place. First, you may need a Russian visa, depending where you are coming from. Check online and apply for it if necessary—trust us, it's worth it. Another issue is about money. Make sure you take as much cash as you can, because ATMs are not available. You can use Russian rubles or Ukrainian hryvnias. The ideal accommodation is
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in a place called Bubble Village, which offers domes with amazing views into the Republic's territory. Though rather expensive, the rooms offer a practical solution if you want to stay near the party. You can also rent a place in the towns near the Republic. Popovka and Mirnyi are the closest ones, and they offer a range of accommodations, from single pension rooms to comfortable hotel suites. Being a republic, Kazantip has its own cultural traditions, from typical food (grilled corn and sunflower seeds) to a national anthem you can download from the website. Everything is arranged so that you can get in the role of being a citizen while keeping your own identity. So basically, you can behave as you want at the place you always wanted to be. Put your hands up for Tomorrowland! Electronic music lovers find paradise every year in Belgium, at a festival that has the energy to light up a city. Boom is the place to be when it comes to party, and Tomorrowland is the festival where every known DJ has a stage in front of a fierce crowd. The festival offers complete pack-
ages that include plane tickets from a number of European cities, entrance for the full three days of the festival, and space in Dreamville, the camping area where people from all over the world find a place to spend the night. Despite the fact the festival offers flights to Belgium in what looks like a party plane, it isn't actually like that. Passengers board a commercial plane full of people going to the event, but otherwise, there's nothing special about the trip. But once you arrive in Brussels, the festive vibe settles in and there’s a feeling that the party's about to start. It takes about an hour to arrive in Boom, and the town looks ready to have a blast. A rainbow is the sign that you are getting closer to Dreamville, where huge camping spaces are available to pitch your tent. After your campsite is set up, make sure you try the festival's amazing Belgian hamburgers and fries, then kill your thirst with the traditional Kriek, a beer brewed with Morello cherries. After all, you'll need a lot of energy to jump from stage to stage. The way the festival is conceived is
Š Eddy Van 3000
Tomorrowland
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Can I hold onto this moment for the rest of my life? Going to festivals is an addictive experience: you always want more, and
Glastonbury
when they finish, you get that emotional hangover, what brazilians call saudade, a combination of happiness and nostalgia. Even if you aren't a music fan, there's always something for you at a music festival: you may find yourself jumping off a cliff into the Black Sea, or dancing in puddles of mud with a bunch of people you don’t know. It’s all about the experience, the celebration of a once-in-alifetime moment.
Š Jason Bryant
like a fantasy in a theme park, so be ready for a visual explosion. Fireworks are nothing compared with the mindblowing sets that Tomorrowland uses to impress its audience: volcanos, giant books, and lasers will make you feel in another reality.
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BALANCE
Beauty Feel the beats, keep the looks
by Juรกn d. Zamora
Music festivals are the perfect method to make memories for the future. The only things you have to worry about are meeting new people, having a good time with your friends, and listening to your favorite bands live. But never forget to care about your looks. Long days under the summer sun can be an enemy for your image, and trust me, you want to look good for those Instagram pictures. Take note of these amazing products meant for the outdoors, then have a good time in style.
Jack Black Sun Guard Sunscreen SPF 45
First things first. Sun protection is a serious matter, and if you want to keep that red look off your face, sunscreen is the first thing you have to pack when going to a festival. Find one that gives waterresistant protection because sweat wipes away a regular sunscreen. We recommend this product due to its high SPF and the fact that it doesn’t leave a greasy feeling on your face. It's meant for outdoor activities and works under extreme conditions, so it'll be perfect for enjoying a sunny day without worrying about getting sunburned.
Alder New York Natural Hair Powder
This item has become one of the most wanted dry shampoos on the market, and it's the perfect thing for having the fresh sensation you need after a long day under the sun without taking a shower. The natural formula provides exactly what you need: a clean, sharp look in just a minute. Take a tablespoon of the powder, apply it directly to the roots, and comb your hair. Right away, it will be looking fresh, oil free, and in control. Due to its use of natural ingredients such as rice powder and organic horsetail powder, this product is also suitable for people with senstive scalps.
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SHISEIDO Cleansing Sheets
A practical way to remove dirt, sweat, and oil from your face. These alcohol-free wipes are a great way to give your face a fresh feeling and effective cleansing. They come in a plastic case, making them easy to carry. One wipe will be enough to clean your face and neck, leaving you ready for your next adventure at the festival. Made of cotton, they're suitable for sensitive skin.
EO Hand Sanitizer Spray
It's no secret—toilets at festivals are torture. But don’t worry. This practical hand sanitizer will be your ally in the battle against germs in a place with no water. Its package makes it perfect to carry in a pocket, and its natural ingredients are both eco-friendly and effective. With natural glycerin and lavender essential oil, this spray will soothe and clean your hands. It's better than gel formulas because it doesn’t leave that annoying sticky feeling.
Elemis Tea Tree SOS Spray
This spray is the solution to any skin problem you might get at a festival, from bug bites to sunburn. It's a powerful antiseptic that can be applied literally from head to toe. Its active tea tree oil helps to soothe the skin and prevent infections, plus it can be used as a deodorant for funky feet too. This product is everything you need in a can, so keep it handy just in case you need it. And trust us, you will!
Ursa Major Smashbox Photo Finish
Forget about Photoshop and Instagram filters. If you want to look like a star even under extreme conditions, this product is for you. With grape seed extract, green tea, and vitamins A and E, this is an ideal solution for a silky finish that lasts on your skin for hours. It's an award-winning product that will take the oily shine out of your face while giving it that perfect complexion we all want. This product is so unique it has been tested in photo studios, guaranteeing that you will look fresh in a crowd full of tired faces.
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The Dusseldorf Jungle Text: Evelyn höllrigl, Mirza Specakovic photOS: collection "slow life lover" huy dieu
He can basically do anything: throw a party for a thousand guests, start a creative agency, write a popular food blog, and open up a burger restaurant—plus design fashion. Huy Dieu has really done all these things, most of them simultaneously. It would take days to read up on every project this creative multi-talent from Dusseldorf has already been involved in. At only 31, Dieu has already accomplished what many other youngsters aspire to: to do a bit of everything you love and be successful at it. It seems like everything Dieu touches turns to gold, which might have to do with him knowing the right people and moving in the right circles—or maybe it’s just that he has talent to spare.
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Cool and laid-back
Special focus needs to be directed to his fashion achievements though. Even though Huy admits that sewing is his biggest weak spot, designing is definitely one of his strengths. He's proven this with his printed T-shirts, sweatpants, caps, and tank tops. He’s not a designer in the traditional sense though, in that he doesn’t do romantic or highly complex sketches. His pieces are cool, they’re modern, and they fit Dieu’s adventurous, enterprising, project-intensive lifestyle. His collections look like he planned them alongside his parties, and his T-Shirts look like they could be the dress code at the hip places he runs. Huy’s street-wear label, called DRMTM (DreamTeam Clothing), is already sold in 50 cities and not only does it grace the fit young bodies of the Dusseldorf street scene, but also those of celebrities like singers Sean Paul and Lupe Fiasco and the famous German goalkeeper Manuel Neuer. His prints can best be described by the simple but clear label “cool”, because that’s what
they are. Nonchalant statements like "Party & Bullshit" or jungle patterns are characteristic of the DRMTM designs. His current collection, titled "Slow Life Lover", pays homage to a slower-moving world without stress.
It’s all down to skill
And as if all that wasn’t already hip enough, as part of his current collection, Huy is selling a jungle-patterned bike that—there’s just no denying it— could not possibly be any cooler. So it should come as no surprise that his label is so successful. The young designer is living proof that you don’t necessarily need a degree to be what you want to be, as long as you know what you want—which he most certainly does. He also knows how to sell things and turn seemingly banal objects into desired must-haves, whether they’re hoodies, T-shirts, sweatpants, or bikes.
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interview
VANGARDIST met the all-rounder for an interview and found out that Dieu is one of those people that almost anyone would love to have for a friend. Vangardist: Your label is called DreamTeam, what’s your dream? Huy Dieu: The name was inspired by the Notorious B.I.G. song Juicy that starts with the phrase "it was all a dream". It was our dream to channel our passion into setting up our own company and be able to live from it. Today we still have dreams, albeit modest ones like ruling the world [laughs]. V: Can you remember your very first dream? Dieu: Only recently I talked to my little cousin Charlotte, who’s 14, about her future plans. I told her to make a list of all the things she really wants to do in life; regardless of whether it’s something like going on the world’s longest water slide or
live abroad, it should all go on the list. We talked about the craziest things, and then suddenly she asked me: "So where’s your list?" There was a pause. And then I remembered my dream of one day ticking all the things off my own list. V: What qualities do you like most in other people? Dieu: It depends. There are many different characteristics that make a person interesting. I like uncomplicated people who just go out and do things instead of thinking about them too much. V: And what qualities do you like in yourself? Dieu: Uff, maybe that I just go out and do things without thinking about them too much. V: In your current collection, the jungle theme is omnipresent. Is there a specific reason behind this, and what do you associate with this theme?
huy dieu
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Dieu: Nowadays, everything has to move so fast. The technology and means of communication we have invented are now pushing us to move faster and faster. My current collection pays homage to the life we’ve lost. The message behind it is: back to nature, take life easy and be a slow life-lover; indirectly, it’s plainly also a message to myself. V: When did you decide to get involved in fashion? Dieu: I can’t really say if I decided it. I’ve been interested in fashion and design in a general sense from a very early age. When I was fifteen I took night classes in illustration. But when it came to sewing I quickly had to recognise where my limits were. Many years later, in 2005, a friend and I started blogging about streetwear from America and Asia, and as a result we wanted to print our own T-shirts. The first ones we just gave away to our friends. That’s how it all started.
V: You also organise parties. What does music mean to you? Dieu: Music is something essential. At our office, hardly a minute goes by in silence; we have the right soundtrack for every kind of mood. On Fridays it gets really fun, when we see in the weekend with 90s trash hits. V: What was the first CD you bought? Dieu: I think it was Michael Jackson’s Dangerous with the amazing album cover artwork by Mark Ryden. V: Do you sometimes go to festivals? Dieu: Yeah, but I haven’t been to that many yet. I like the atmosphere though; it’s like entering a different world. V: What will come after the hipsters? Dieu: I’m quite curious to find that out too. Street Goth is already quite hip these days, but I doubt it’ll gain as much momentum as the hipster craze. V: You also blog for Pomme des
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Garcons, how did that come about? Dieu: A lot of my friends, me included, were always posting food pictures through social media channels and making other peoples’ mouths water. I love food, and so I thought that we should show all these yummy treats in one single place; and then we made Pomme des Garcons one of our agency’s projects. V: Food and fashion—do they have anything in common? Dieu: Absolutely! Creativity, interaction, taste, colour, texture… V: You blog, you’re interested in food, you organise parties, and you design clothes. Is there anything you’re not good at? Dieu: There’s actually a lot I’m not good at, but the thing I suck most at is sewing. V: Who’s your personal hero? Dieu: This month’s hero is definitely
my cousin Charlotte for reminding me to finally do some of the things I’ve always wanted to do. V: What’s your next project gonna be? Dieu: First of all, we’re planning upgrading our Dusseldorf burger joint, What’s Beef, which should be finished in mid-May. Second on the list is to step up the pace on our DRMTM designs, to shorten the waiting periods for our customers for new collections and exciting new products. V: Huy, thank you for talking to us.
inFO: You can check out the “Slow Life Lover” collection by DRMTM at www. drmtm.com. Some of Huy Dieu’s other projects can be found at www.gooqx.com.
left: pant s and Jacket by Julian Ziegerli, shirt by Kaiser Friedrich Hemden, Shoes by Pall adium, gl asses by Andy Wolf right: pant s and T Shirt by Julian Ziegerli, Jacket by Patrick Mohr
Left: shirt and pant s by Fr anklin Marshall / Right: Pullover by Fr anklin Marshall, pant s by Dockers
pant s by Wr angler, T Shirt by Urban Outfitters, shirt by Ucon, Shoes by Doc Martens, gl asses by MYKITA
left: pant s by Wr angler, shirt by Frisur, C ap by Urban Outfitters / right: pant s by Paige, shirt by Barbour, Jacket by G S tar, Shoes by Melvin & Hamilton
right: shirt by Kaiser Friedrich Hemden, pant s by S tars t yling, watch by G Shock, gl asses by MYKITA / left: shirt by Kaiser Friedrich Hemden, pant s by Dockers, watch by G Shock, Shoes by Nike
shirt by Kaiser Friedrich Hemden, Parker by Tiger of Sweden
right: pant s and Parker by Tiger of Sweden, Shoes by Melvin & Hamilton / left: pant s by Dockers, shirt by Selected Homme, flight jacket by Fred Perry, watch by GShock
pant s by Tata Chris tiane, Shirt and Jacket by Eleven Paris, Shoes by Doc Martens
Photogr apher Maria Dominika S t yling C ariin Cowalscii Hair&Make-up Karin a berg Model Bl aise @ Kult Maik @ VIVA
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r i a n ope ars b
The
Places
126 ON TOUR
by mario kollinger
Ides at Wythe Hotel New York, USA Photos: 1© Adrian Gaut / 2+3 © Courtesy of Wythe Hotel
www.wythehotel.com / www.workstead.com
Since 2012, the former cooperage located in the heart of Williamsburg has been housing the trendy Wythe Hotel, which, thanks to its unique mix of old and modern architecture, doesn’t just appeal to hipsters and bobos. Its in-house restau-
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rant, Reynard, serves delicious American classics made from local ingredients, although the hotel’s biggest hit is, without a doubt, the seasonally inspired cocktails mixed up on the sixth floor at the Ides Bar. Both the bar and its spacious
terrace offer an amazing view of Brooklyn and the East River and are the perfect setting to watch the sun go down behind the Manhattan skyline on a warm summer evening.
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Radio Rooftop Bar at ME London London, UK Photos Š Francisco Guerrero
www.melia.com
In no time, the fancy bar at the top of the ME London hotel has managed to become one of the most popular places to enjoy a cold drink while admiring the capital city’s skyline. Alongside its extensive cocktail menu, the bar also of-
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fers premium tapas like scotch eggs, sliced Wagyu beef and mac 'n' cheese, highly popular with the business men and long-legged models that make up its regular crowd.
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Wanderlust Paris, France Photos: 1© Nicolas Borel / 2© Roland Halbe / 3© Jakob+MacFarlane
www.wanderlustparis.com / www.jakobmacfarlane.com
Designed by Jakob + MacFarlane, and set inside part of their earlier “The Docks – City of Fashion and Design” project,
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Wanderlust is a unique combination of restaurant, outdoor and indoor club, and open air cinema. The event space, located right on the banks of the Seine, has not only made a name for itself with its house and minimal techno club nights
featuring top international DJs, but also for being a popular venue for special events like street food festivals or the weekly yoga, gym, and Pilates sessions out on the terrace.
138 VANGART
listen to
this
rs e n e t s i l d o o g or f s n o i t a d n e m m r e co
by Juรกn d. Zamora
Woodkid
The Golden Age (Coachella 2014 / USA) From France comes a talent like no other. A multifaceted artist who not only writes his own music but is destined to be the voice of a generation. He is an inspiration for big music names like John Legend and Lana del Rey (he’s the mind behind the stunning "Born to Die" video). We first met him with "Iron", a song with a flawless instrumental quality and a video that made our jaws drop. Then "Run, Boy, Run", the second single from The Golden Age, confirmed that he was the man to watch. This album will give you faith in music again, and if you see him live you will witness the powerful performance of a real class act. go to amazon
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RĂśyksopp & Robyn
Do It Again (Sonar 2014 – Spain)
Blood Orange
Cupid Deluxe (Lollapalooza 2014 /USA)
The Norwegian band and the Swedish singer are in love, and we approve this relationship. The first time we heard them A laptop, a guitar, and his voice: those are together was in 2009, in "The Girl and the all that Dev Hynes needs on the stage in Robot". In 2014 they announced a unique order to amaze us. His previous project, project: they will be releasing a miniLightspeed Champion, was a landmark album, with only 5 songs, and touring in the music scene, and now he wants together. The first single from Do It Again to conquer the world with a sound that is the eerie "Monument", a song that hypreminds us of the decadence of the 80s. notizes with the band's characteristic beats Cupid Deluxe is an electronic project full and the electric voice of the singer. Their of lyrics about love and heartbreak. anticipated live show promises to be full Listen to "You're Not Good Enough" of energy and electronic sounds. and "Chamakay". go to amazon go to amazon
Iggy Azalea
The New Classic (Wireless Festival 2014 / UK)
Bomba Estereo
Elegancia Tropical (Festival Art Rock 2014 / France)
One of our favourite bands in the world. We’ve been talking about her for a long Their unique sound comes all the way time now and finally her debut album is from Colombia, and has taken stages by here. Iggy Azalea's raunchy lyrics and unique rap style made her a star overnight, storm. From Istanbul to Buenos Aires, they and with this album she’s confirming that have become one of the favourite live acts we will hear a lot from her in upcoming around, thanks to their exotic beats and the years. We already love "Bounce", "Work", strong presence of lead singer Li Saumet. The band's energetic sound mixes tradiand "Fancy", but with "Goddess" and "Just tional Colombian rhythms with modern Askin’" she’s exploring epic sounds rap music has been shy to go into. An ener- elements. Listen to "El Alma y El Cuerpo", getic performer who will teach you "Caribbean Power", or "Pure Love" and get ready for a tropical getaway. how to twerk. go to amazon go to amazon
142 CELEBRATION
UP Coming
! ? . . n i n o s What'
//vienna
FESCH’MARKT / June 13th to 15th Ottakringer Brauerei Ottakringer Platz 1 1160 Vienna
//NEW YORK
VIP ROOFTOP PARTY
/ June 28th Hudson Terrace 621 West 46th Street Small independent design labels common- New York, NY ly earn their money by selling their creations through the web and can only rarely Generally, the urban party scenesters hide afford to present their brands in the non- in dark underground clubs to indulge in virtual world. Luckily, FESCH’MARKT their nocturnal endeavours. For a bit of a has now created a real-life platform where change, in the summer, many of us like these young designers and artists can in- to go in the opposite direction and climb troduce themselves to potential customers. to the city’s rooftops; after all, dancing is The event's curators select the most origi- so much more fun with a steady supply of nal representatives from five categories fresh air and breathtaking views. The ul(fashion, jewellery, accessories, graphics, timate in rooftop parties is certainly New and product design) and invite them to York’s VIP ROOFTOP PARTY on Hudson showcase their work in the space’s gen- Terrace, so if you’ve always wanted to sip erous 250 square metres. More than one your cocktail in full view of the world’s young fashion designer has proven their most famous skyline, you now know the talent here over the past three years. place to be. www.feschmarkt.info www.hudsonterracenyc.com
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//ZuRICH
//BRIGHTON
BRIGHTON BEAR WEEKENDER / June 20th to 22nd Brighton England, UK June in Brighton is best described as hairy, as for a whole weekend, the city, which according to statistics is the world’s gayest, will be taken over by bears and bear-lovers. Different venues in and around Brighton are going to celebrate masculinity in its purest form, which is the perfect occasion for scantily clad leather-men to literally let their hair down and present as much of it as they want in the presence of like-minded hair-lovers. ‘Cause as we all know: bears of a feather flock together—or something like that. www.brightonbearweekender.co.uk
WONDERWORLD IN SPACE WARM-UP / June 13th Alte Kaserne Kanonengasse 16 8004 Zurich Like the rest of the world, Switzerland wants to be part of the gay pride theme that dominates this month, so let’s just stop resisting and surrender to the inevitable. The Pride-weekend in Zurich is kicked off by the already-legendary WONDERWORLD IN SPACE warm-up party. Just judging by the suggestive location name (the event takes place at the old barracks in Kanonengasse—or ‘canon street’), it seems like the ideal place to preheat the metropolis on beautiful Lake Zurich and get everyone in the right mood to wildly celebrate human diversity in all its rainbow colours. www.wonderworldparty.ch
//BERLIN
CHRISTOPHER STREET DAY / June 21st Kurfürstendamm 10707 Berlin
//COLUMBUS
COLUMBUS ARTS FESTIVAL
/ June 6th to 8th Riverfront City of Columbus June is the month of the Gay Pride and Ohio, USA Rainbow parades, so cities around the globe that don't want to miss out on the Does art have to be hidden away in artibusiness of the scantily clad—or even ficially lit, sterile-looking museums? In stark naked—LGBTs bring while danc- Columbus, Ohio they already asked theming through their avenues, boulevards, selves that question back in 1962 and and historical centres, are once more get- came up with a clear answer: NO! Withting ready to climb on the gay bandwagon. out further ado, the Festival of the Arts was CHRISTOPHER STREET DAY in Berlin founded the very same year, bringing art still stands out among them, though. With out into the open. Since then, the project approximately 700,000 visitors every year, has changed its name to the COLUMBUS it remains an absolute highlight on the gay ARTS FESTIVAL, but every year it conpride calendar, so it should come as no sur- tinues to turn the Scioto River’s urban rivprise that June 28th—the day of the Stone- erfront into one massive outdoor museum wall Riots that took place on New York’s and provide a stage for established artists, Christopher Street—is on the agenda for as well as young talent, bringing art to a becoming a national holiday in Germany. whole region in the process. www.csd-berlin.de www.columbusartsfestival.org
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