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Summary
Special Mido
ch 2012 ine • Mar cal Magaz onal Opti Internati The First
Edizioni Ariminum
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51/A - 20133
Milan - Italy
Fashion trends INDUSTRY new products, marketing and economy.
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Vedere International March 2012 Publishing Director: Isabella Morpurgo
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6 MIDO 10 OPTI ’12 14 Vision Expo EAST
Polaroid Eyewear Designer > Designer
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2013 Trends Seen by Mazzucchelli 1849
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New at Mido
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Accessories Children Classy Chic Colours Contemporary Mood Labs & Shops Sun & Sport Vintage
In this issue we speak about... Alex Barusco AM Group Plus Astucci Barton Perreira Bieke Hoet Big Line Centro Style David Beddok Demon Eschenbach Optik Eugenia Lunari Ferragamo Fomap FOVS Franco Sordelli Glam Gloryfy Gruppolicromatico Henry Jullien Hoet Humphrey‘s Eyewear ic! Berlin Jean-Francois Rey Lindberg Locco Lunari Marchon Eyewear Maria Grazia Chiuri Massimiliano Verzellino Mazzucchelli 1849 Mehran Baghaie MOKO Besicles Nicola Piccolo Oko Eyewear Group Omap OXYDO Paola Lunari Patrick Hoet Patrizia Shelabarger Patty Paillette Patty Perreira Pierpaolo Piccioli Polaroid PQ Eyewear ROLF Spectacles Ron Arad Safilo Group Spectacle Eyeworks Trenti Valentino Visionottica Vue DC Vue DC… Vuillet Vega
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Who are we?
Where are we going?
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l a i r o t i d E
ince 1953, the year of birth of our VEDERE magazine, which is now truly a logo in the industry, also at world level thanks to the two versions, Italian and international, of our publication, we have always sought to understand the market we are dealing with, going beyond fashion trends, the “juggling” of designer labels, the mergers, takeovers and new protagonists. A basic fulcrum of our activity is the value we wish to convey to the market. In the past the trade press had few players. Today just under a hundred journals in the world act as go-betweens linking production, distribution and retail. Clients are at times overwhelmed and confused by the quantity of proposals presented, when the publications lack a precise identity to classify and place them. Those acquainted with our publishing house know that for decades we have sought to try out new paths to adapt our response to readers’ requests, exploiting what the new technologies or means of communication offer us, without abandoning our initial identity.
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The First International Optical Magazine • March 2012
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Thus in the ‘90s initiatives such as VEDERE Multimedia, the first digital review on CD-ROM, or E&F – Eyewear & Fashion, which later became EFF Extra For Fashion, were top-target publications devoted to the niche of designers then emerging in the eyewear sector. These experiences gave us a great deal of satisfaction on both professional and personal levels and, although these products are no longer on the market, I am pleased to see that over ten years later, our example is being followed by other colleagues currently venturing into similar initiatives. In the last two years we have become active on the social networks with our page on Facebook, currently followed by just under 3,000 professionals at international level, and my personal profile, in daily contact with over 5,000 “friends”. These initiatives have been followed by a VEDERE which is just for the Italian market, an idea we had been pondering for some time, and, lastly in chronological order, the digital version of our magazines. So we have a number of irons in the fire, despite these difficult times, but we believe that we have always kept the promise we made our readers over half a century ago, that we would be witnesses and interpreters for a fine industry where there is no lack of creativity, ingenuity, inventiveness and entrepreneurial spirit. We claim to be speaking to all the actors in the sector, in leading and second roles, without using sectarian languages reserved for a few, but at the same time seeking to stimulate updating and research for a professional enrichment. ✒ Isabella Morpurgo publisher isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
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he Greek peplum, Roman tunic, corset, 17th century crinoline and wigs of the 1700’s have all gone out of fashion, but not eyewear. Over the course of the centuries and across the continents this product, spawned by the creative flair of 13th century Venice, has evolved, been updated, revised and modified to land on the noses of stars and everyday people of the 21st century and make a name for itself. A cult accessory that provides a solution to eyesight problems, but that also turns heads and creates a look or expresses a certain mood. In the sunglass version, it is worn to protect from UV rays and to “play” at disguising yourself or show off. Could Cary Grant have escaped from the
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March 11 - 12 and 13 police in “North by northwest” without his tortoiseshell glasses? Could Lolita have been so alluring in the film without those heart-shaped glasses? Or could Woody Allen have had the same frightened intellectual look without his nerdy glasses? And would Marilyn Monroe have been so seductive in “How to marry a millionaire” hadn’t she worn those cat-eye glasses? And would Bill Gates, the Blues Brothers, Mahatma Gandhi, Malcolm x and John Lennon have had such a strong appeal in the collective imaginary if they hadn’t flaunted the very pair of glasses that made them unique? Probably not. These days eyewear is one of the many expressions of a world, the eyewear world, that encompasses several sectors: lenses, machinery, components and frames. And Mido occupies a prominent position in this landscape, at the very center of a business activity that involves eyewear companies and trade people worldwide. A one-stop shopping point that can keep up to date and offer – exhibition after exhibition – an exclusive showcase of all the new offerings in the sector. Slated for 11 to 13 March 2012 in Milan, for the 42nd time, it is known to be a must-attend event for companies wanting to promote their own business and – for people from the national and international eyewear community – a unique opportunity to source new products, keep on track and network, get an idea of what’s happening, see what’s
A must-see for companies as well as an opportunity for opticians and buyers to network and learn
new, interpret the trends, grasp the new moods in eyewear in all its multi-faceted aspects. Mido can offer all this because of the ongoing, active contacts it has established with its main audience, interfacing constantly with opticians and eye specialists to offer them a bespoke service and to ensure that demand meets supply. “International reach”, “immediate usability”, “focus on new offerings and niche markets”, “learning moments” and “dedicated services”: this is what the eyewear trade is asking for. And Mido is responding.
New dates and a new spatial layout A better layout and new dates: Sunday 11 to Tuesday 13. The decision was made to simplify matters for overseas buyers who prefer to concentrate their visits to the exhibition on week days but who also want to be able to go there during the weekend as well as for opticians from Italy and neighboring countries who visit on Sunday and Monday when optical stores are normally closed in many cities. Last, but no less important is the new floor plan. Exhibition fittings are important for Mido because it thinks they are an added
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The most detailed look at the eyewear sector
WWW.Mido365.COM on Facebook and Twitter
value. So each pavilion has been given its own special look to create a visual tour inside the exhibition and make each area immediately recognizable: leading-edge technologies in materials, lenses and accessories are located in the Mido Tech (pav. 9) pavilion and in the pavilion dedicated to lenses (pav. 22); the latest fashion trends in prescription eyewear and sunglasses are the stars of Mido Fashion District (pav. 13 e 15); frontier testing with shapes, materials and colors comes to life in the now unmissable Mido Design Lab (pav. 24, open until 10 p.m. on Sunday 11Th, March). The Asian Pavilion (pav. 9 e 11) features an overview of product offerings from the Far East. Last on the list: reserved spaces and reception areas, conference and teaching spaces. Mido is a business, marketing and communication opportunity, but also a privileged observation point where visitors can grasp new trends with its worldwide preview of the eyewear trends for 2012. It’s at the stands at the Milanese showcase that companies dictate the latest directions in eyewear fashion. Big or small?
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The social networks are an essential communication channel for everyone. They truly represent a parallel dimension of life, and thus of the market. More and more companies in International Eyewear have a Facebook and Twitter profile, to comunicate their noveties to the world in a less formal way, useful above all for the swiftness with which it conveys the message to thousands of interested people. www.Mido365.com has decided to “land” on Facebook and Twitter, enabling readers to follow the news in real time on the portal without ever losing contact with the market, operators and the most interesting news. During the forthcoming edition of MIDO, from March 11 to 13, 2012, a twitter coverage of the event will thus be ensured, with highlights, exclusives and tweets direct from the Halls of Fieramilano Rho-Pero, hosting the fair. Don’t miss all this, and link up on the Facebook fan page which you will find at this link www. facebook.com/redazionemido365, clicking on the MI PIACE key at the top of the page, to receive all the latest news in real time and be the first to know in which direction the industry is moving, what the protagonists of International Eyewear are saying, also thanks to the numerous global agreements for which Mido365 is a leading news agency for specific information in the sector.
Round or colored? And in order to have the earliest preview, the trade and fashion press, bloggers and trendsetters, buyers and opticians from across the globe meet at Mido each year. ■
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The best in vision
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t was a resounding start to the new year of business in optics and eyewear, and already a highlight in the sector´s calendar: opti ’12 in Munich, between 13 and 15 January 2012. More than 450 exhibitors from 27 countries and 23,000 visitors from Germany and abroad came together here to celebrate the best in vision. The mood among the participants was excellent, there was lots of valuable information and the order books were filling up fast – in all four fully booked exhibition halls. Almost 90 percent (2011: 84.1 percent) of the trade visitors surveyed rated opti ’12 as “good to very good”. The survey revealed that visitors were particularly pleased with the breadth and depth of the range on show at the fair. Of special inter-
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est this year were the sections on frames, optical lenses and contact lenses. Also, more and more manufacturers are choosing opti ’12 as an ideal platform, right at the start of the year, at which to present their new collections of sunglasses to the market. “With new exhibitors and designers from Germany and abroad – including ones from Japan and the US – opti has further underlined its fashion and design competence and broadened its international coverage,” said Dieter Dohr, CEO and President of GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH, the company that organises opti. The visitors were also delighted with this: 84.3 percent of them described the international coverage of the fair as “good to excellent”. “opti ’12 is further expanding its reputation as a pace-setter. More and more companies are gearing their production cycles to
Optics sector celebrated the start of the year with opti ’12 in Munich opti, which they make use of as a presentation platform for innovations and new models,” continued Dieter Dohr. “It is the strongest fair at the start of the year, it acts as a guide and offers orientation as regards technology and design in the new year.” This year, too, the entire international sector was keenly awaiting this fair in Munich, where so many collections, models and technologies experienced their world premiere. And many of the exhibitors in the shopfittings section showed just how to best showcase these. At opti ’12 they presented their new concepts and, with their creativity, they made a significant contribution to the successful visual atmosphere
at the fair. According to the survey overall the companies were pleased with the higher number of orders than last year. Also, noticeably, they were very upbeat about the increasing interest from opticians from abroad in their products. New this year was optimus, a relaxing get-together in the Hofbräuhaus, probably the most famous beer hall in the world, located right in the heart of Munich. Here
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exhibitors and visitors had another opportunity to engage in conversation, this time outside the exhibition halls. Commenting on the evening, Thomas Truckenbrod, President of the Zentralverband der Augenoptiker (ZVA), said: “optimus lived up to the promise of its name. It was an optimum evening and a real highlight in the organisation of opti ’12.” He added: “The stand of the ZVA was always busy and we were also able to feel the optimism of our colleagues for 2012. After what will hopefully be a successful 2012, opti ’13 will be an absolute must for everyone in the sector.” Also positive in his comments about the fair was Josef May, chairman of the sector association SPECTARIS: “What else is there to say about opti ’12? On all three days of the fair, you could hear nothing but praise from all corners of the thronging halls. We can all report it was a highly satisfying event. Business was good, the atmosphere was again superb, the
High level of acceptance of the overall concept for the fair organisational side was uncomplicated and there was a further increase in the number of visitors from abroad – following the tough times in the second half of 2011, we are now thankfully entering the new year with a following wind from opti ’12,” said May. Opinions about the economic situation remained unchanged. According to the survey, the trade visitors are looking forward optimistically to the future. As last year, over half of those surveyed described the situation as “good to excellent”. The next opti will take place from 25 to 27 January 2013 in Munich.■
From technology to design: World premieres at the start of the year 12
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Vision Expo East 2012
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he expansion of the show onto four levels continues the trend of growth at International Vision Expo East, to be held March 22-25, 2012 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York (Education: March 22-25, Exhibition: March 23-25). Already, the square footage of the 2012 show has exceeded last year’s, aided by the 575 expected exhibitors, of which nearly 130 are new first-time exhibitors. Last year, the show expanded into the new North Hall, which includes The Galleria, The Underground and The Atrium. International Vision Expo & Conference
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will debut The French Loft, a new area showcasing the latest in French design at this year’s New York event. The French Loft will be located on level four of the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. For many of the exhibitors, The French Loft at Vision Expo East will be the only international exhibition of their eyewear. “Vision Expo East will be the only international trade show outside of France where I will showcase my frame collections. I chose Vision Expo because of its size. It’s very accessible -- making relationships with customers more easy and simple,” said Bruno Chaussignand, founder, designer and director of Bruno Chaussignand.
■ French Loft view
The French-inspired loft environment will feature ten, high-end exhibitors with unique products. Exhibitors in the space include: Pierre Eyewear, Histoire de Voir, Jeremy Tarian, French Vintage Lunetier, Glance of Lens, Bruno Chaussignand, Struktur, Jacques Durand Lunetier, Lotho
and Waiting for the Sun. International Vision Expo, in partnership with Local Eye Site (LES), announced also the launch of a new job search portal, Vision Jobs, for eyecare professionals (ECPs). Recognized as the premier online employment community for ECPs, LES will “power” job searches for International Vision Expo’s new portal, www.visionexpoeast.com/visionjobs. This online portal leverages International Vision Expo attendees and LES’s “Power Network” – which includes 16 publications, associations, and destinations – to provide the profession’s greatest distribution of vision career opportunities and the largest online audience of ECPs. ■
Polaroid 75 YEARS
OF WORLD LEADING EYEWEAR INNOVATION POLAROID CELEBRATES WITH ITS UNIQUE BEST UNDER THE SUN COLLECTION New Heritage Collection and Seventy-five Aviator anniversary frame bring together the passion and the science behind some of Polaroid’s most iconic sunglass designs
Recognised around the world for its innovation in polarized lens technology and iconic designs for sunglasses, Polaroid Eyewear celebrates its 75th anniversary in 2012. With such an auspicious history, 75 years needed to be celebrated in a very special way. To mark what is a unique achievement in the global optical industry, Polaroid is launching world-wide for the first time, its Best under the sun Collection, with sunglass styles created from the company’s design archives going back to the 1930s and including a new statement Aviator frame, called Seventy-five. For this special anniversary year, Polaroid has also agreed a global collaboration with the charity Sightsavers, supporting their vital work to combat treatable blindness and improve eye health for people living in some of the poorest countries around the world. For every pair of Best under the sun Collection sunglasses and Seventy-five aviators sold during 2012, Polaroid will donate a share of the sales generated to Sightsavers.
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History in the making… Dr Edwin Land, founder of the Polaroid Corporation, was fascinated by the properties of light from an early age. His investigations with kaleidoscopes led him to invent the first synthetic polarizer in 1929. Dr Land used this to sell his first pair of polarized sunglasses commercially in 1935 and this ground breaking technology remains the basis for all polarized sunglasses manufactured today. Back in 1937, Polaroid was established as an organisation, marking the beginning of a brand that was to take its place in history through the ongoing development of polarized lens technology. This created a whole new market for fashionable yet practical polarized sunglasses that could be produced for the first time on a massive scale. Edwin Land and Partner demonstrating the effect of Polarization
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Over the coming years, Edwin Land steered his business through some significant milestones. In the 1940s, Polaroid made an important contribution to the war effort by developing and supplying high specification goggles for combat pilots and tank crews. From this, night driving glasses were developed in the1950s and in the 1960s Polaroid went global for the first time with some decade-defining sunglass designs, made available in 45 countries. Design has always been a guiding principle for Polaroid who collaborated with some of the world’s most famous fashion brands through the 1970s and 80s including Mary Quant, Kenneth Grange of Pentagram fame and global youth fashion brand, Benetton. The 1990s saw Polaroid’s commitment to technology play another vitally important role with the development of the next generation of polarized lenses with the Polaroid PTX4000 lens, created through the company’s unique press polishing technology. Polaroid in the 21st century Today, Polaroid Eyewear remains a major force in the highly competitive, fast moving global sunglass market, recognised for its pioneering technology and stylish design. The brand’s global success can also be attributed to the fact that Polaroid remains passionate about design, quality and customer service at every level - from their manufacturing site in the Vale of Leven in Scotland - through every aspect of the supply chain with trade partners, and finally right into the hands of the customer. That is why Polaroid is one of the top Sunglass brands, trusted by consumers around the globe in over 70 countries.
The 2012 Collection Using 75 years of accumulated expertise, Polaroid continues to offer a high quality range of sunglasses. In the 2012 Sunglass Collection there is a superb choice of stylish metal and plastic frames for men and women from classic aviators with subtle drain-pipe arms to the latest chunky fashion frames with mediumsize rounded lenses. Colour palettes go dark with gun metal, black, smokey blue and brown dominating men’s frames while women’s frames see burgundy, black and plum frames teamed with lilac and grey lenses.
For some urban chic, there are rapper-style dark coloured acetate frames, some with metal detailing, teamed with gradient lenses. Or traffic-stopping big mirrored lenses in tear-drop style metal frames in startling silver combined with blue, red or black! With its eye-catching designs, Polaroid is one of the most successful impulse purchase brands. So to encourage consumers into stores and maximise sales opPolaroid merchandiser in store
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Polaroid portunities for opticians, Polaroid has created a comprehensive range of unique branded Point of Sale material to support the 2012 Collection. Floor, counter and window merchandisers will be available for optical retailers to use. Continuous Innovation Over the last 75 years, Polaroid has remained true to Dr Land’s original goals of continuous innovation, developing cutting edge technology combined with iconic design to create attractive products, all delivered at an affordable price. The latest example of this is Polaroid’s UltraSight™ lens, fitted in every pair of Polaroid sunglasses. The high performance UltraSight™ premium polarized lens provides 100% UV400 protection and no glare. Thanks to Polaroid’s unique Thermofusion™ Technology, the UltraSight lens does not suffer from the distortion at the edges often found in vacuum formed moulded lenses. Nor is polarizing efficiency compromised as can happen with injection moulding processes. UltraSight simply delivers perfect vision right across the lens while its clever multi-layer production provides unparalleled levels of shock absorption and scratch resistance too. Polaroid has also been instrumental in the 3D glasses market since its inception in the 1930s with the Polaroid 3D viewer and the creation of the first premium 3D lens and frame developed for use in IMAX theatres during the 1990s. More recently Polaroid has been at the forefront of the fast-moving 3D technology sector again, working with RealD™ to create a range of durable fashionably styled premium 3D glasses for use with the latest passive 3D televisions and cinema presentations.
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Polaroid premium 3D glasses
Polaroid has continued to seek out new complementary product opportunities for the brand that enable the company to broaden its offering to trade partners providing them with exciting new revenue streams. For instance, co-branding of their polarized sunglasses has now become an important additional marketing strategy for Polaroid’s Kids Collection through collaborations on ranges for other world leading brands such as Disney and Hello Kitty. The new Polaroid Suncovers range is another successful product innovation, offering a range of stylish sunglasses that fit perfectly over prescription frames. Anniversary Collection for 2012 For Polaroid in 2012, it is all about the 75th anniversary Best under the sun Collection. Spectacular product displays, including a museum collection of original Polaroid sunglasses dating from the last 75 years to the present day, have drawn the crowds at Launch events in Europe and will also be on show at MIDO. The Best under the sun Collection features frames drawn from original Polaroid designs dating from the 1930s to the 1980s and will be available globally for the first time in 2012. And in 2013 it will be an even more exciting collection, featuring the winning designs from the first international Polaroid Design Competition. This is
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a Collection that will just go from strength to strength featuring the best from up and coming 21st century design with a vintage twist…
lens shapes in Victory, while understated, nostalgic 1940s styling is reflected in the rock and roll black or demi frame designs of Buddy.
In the 2012 Collection, each heritage model comes in two colourways and is made from highest quality materials to ensure exceptional durability and crystal-clear clarity to the frames. All Best under the sun frames come with a beautiful golden or silver Polaroid signature printed on the lens.
For the 1950s, showbiz style is here with Marilyn and Broadway – two cat eye frames with gorgeous detailing contrasting nicely with the relaxed 1950s California sunshine frames of Bel-Air for him and Jive frames for her! For would-be road rebels, there are some curved Rider frames from the 1960s or the first of the big frames – Twist – in a striking plum or brown colourway. 1967’s Summer of Love is here again too with the generous frames and graduated lenses of Memphis. It’s all change for the 1970s with the vividly coloured frames of Donna and Flower while Sophia features generous disco-diva frames with open temple arms. This Elvisera also brings Vegas frames in silver or gold, or Rebel for strong, silent types. The Collection completes on a high note from the eighties. From tear-drop aviators, Vice, in gold or gun metal to the dark statement frames of Wave or celebrity-style gradient lenses of Image and Glam.
The range includes a 1930s style, Swing, with a rounded, soft-coloured frame reminiscent of the glamour fashions of the day. 1940s frames show the first radical development of the classic Polaroid tear drop Photography & Styling: Mode Photography; Fashion Garments: Seroge Womenswear; Model: Chelsea Tarbox wearing Polaroid’s 1950 Marilyn sunglasses
Polaroid’s Wave and Image sunglasses were presented to performers and presenters at the internationally acclaimed 2012 BRITS Music Awards in London.
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75th Anniversary Special Edition Aviators Polaroid launched their first Aviator design decades ago and it became an immediate best seller. Saluting this iconic style, the highlight of the Best under the sun Collection is the Seventy-five frame, drawn from an original Aviator style in the Polaroid archives. This has been recreated in the latest materials to commemorate the company’s 75th anniversary. Made from tough but lightweight Monel nickel alloy and corrosion resistant stainless spring steel, these frames are designed for maximum flexibility and all-day wearer comfort, with discreet Polaroid branding on the arms. They are fitted with Polaroid’s premium polarized UltraSight™ lenses treated with anti-reflective coating on the back and stylish flash mirroring on the front for perfect glare-free vision and a great look.
Polaroid anniversary edition Seventy-five aviator
Seventy-five comes in two colourways – a gold/demi frame with polarized gold mirrored green lenses or a silver and black frame with polarized gold mirrored grey lenses. These sunglasses are presented in a special 75 Best under the sun soft fabric pouch and a distinctively branded hard case. In-store Support &Merchandising To support the global launch of its Best under the sun Collection and the company’s 75th anniversary, Polaroid has created a stunning window display illustrating the Best under the sun Collection through
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the unique story that is the 75-year history of Polaroid sunglasses. The display gives optical retailers the opportunity to showcase this head-turning collection in a truly original way, attracting new customers into their stores and getting the new selling season for sunglasses off to a strong start. It is the must-have Collection for 2012! A special anniversary black and gold ‘75 Tag’ is also featured on a comprehensive range of in-store point of sale material. The 75 Tag will be featured too on the packaging and product information materials for the sunglass model, Seventy-five. Polaroid is also launching an updated version of its UltraSight™ lens brochure for trade partners, describing the history behind the discovery and development of the polarized lens and the unique technological expertise that goes into the production of every pair of UltraSight lenses. ■
BEWARE
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' SHE WAS SOMEBODYS EX BEFORE YOU. MATT / WEARS THE BRADEN IN MATTE BLACK VISION EXPO BOOTH # 1475 / WWW.SPYOPTIC.COM MIDO 2012 Pad.15 stand M12 L19
➤ DESIGNER
DESIGNER
ALEX BARUSCO Born in Venice 40 years ago, he is a creative fashion designer well known for its crazy caps that have become the worldwide symbol of the Venetian carnival. Alex designs and produces niche eyewear collections on his behalf and distributes frames of international designers in Italy and worldwide. He cooperates with our magazine meeting with his colleagues around the world. His particular point of view allows us to highlight new products and people who bring something different on the market.
10 x Ron Arad
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oday I am interviewing a leading architect, international designer and artist, with a truly impressive curriculum, recognized worldwide as one of the major interpreters in his field. Ron is a very friendly person, honest, direct and open-minded who truly impressed me with his clear-cut personality. He is a person who communicates his charisma as very few know how to do. I appreciated his willingness to talk to me about his new adventure in the world of optics. PQ, his eyewear brand, promises to give the market a significant, new input. His models are refined in production, assembled in various factories to meet Ron’s talent and creativity, which solved the problem of adjusting and gauging the frames on different faces. It is obviously a collection which cannot be compared with others on the market. For those managing a boutique with a top notch clientele, seeking alternative frames, it is definitely a MUST HAVE.
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RON ARAD Born in Tel Aviv in 1951, he studied at the Jerusalem Academy of Art and from 1970 continued his studies at the Architectural Association in London. His research soon abandoned architecture (his maestro was Bernard Tschumi, and his fellow students included Nigel Coates and Zaha Hadid), turning toward design. In 1981 he was one of the founders of the One Off design and production studio and in 1989, together with Caroline Thorman, he founded Ron Arad Associates, dealing with architecture and design. In 1994 he opened the Ron Arad Studio in Como, Italy, which deals with design and production. From 1994 to 1997 he was a guest professor at the Hochschule in Vienna, and today is still Professor of Furniture Design at the Royal College of Art in London. He was invited to edit the 1994 edition of the International Design Yearbook. Over the years his work has been widely illustrated in numerous books and journals of architecture and design throughout the world. His works have been exhibited in the world’s leading museums and art galleries, and many of them feature in famous collections such as those of the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Vera Design Museum in Germany. He has created items which have become classics, such as the Rover Chair and Bookworm (Kartell, 1995). Ron Arad’s architectural projects include the foyer of the Opera House in Tel Aviv, Israel, the Belgo restaurants in London (1994), the development of a idea for Sport Café, with advanced interactive audio/video technology for Adidas/Kronenbourg, a high tech residence in London, and numerous projects for exhibitions and art galleries. His project was chosen for the prestigious new Adidas Stadium in Paris. In April ’97, he constructed a totem in the center of Milan commissioned by the Domus magazine: a pile of 70 chairs made up of a single molded aluminum foil, topping which was a chair containing a digital screen advertizing the outstanding events held at the Salone del Mobile furniture fair. Arad uses technologies and materials with completely new approaches and shapes. “… sometimes I am more interested in the form and the figure, and function takes second place; so we create a piece like a great vase, we can call it a vase, but we don’t have to call it a vase. I don’t care whether people use it or not, I enjoy discovering the processes, what you can do with the material, which kind of form you can achieve and function in this case is merely an alibi. I’m not interested in fighting for one or another aspect of the question; saying “this is not sculpture! No, this is design”, doesn’t matter at all. What matters is: is it interesting, is it boring, is it exciting, when you look at it and touch it, does it give you a feeling of pleasure or not? You don’t have to know what it is! … All the materials in the world are ready for use, there’s nothing that isn’t ready for use. It’s a question of how much it is transformed. When I started out I had to place greater trust in what are called “objects ready for use or fused” because it was what I could make use of, what I was able to do. Later on, as you make progress, you can transform things, you can tackle them in a stage before they are achieved. Both working methods have their advantages and satisfactions. I follow this because you can see there exists a previous resemblance between an object which has more to do with its own appearance, with the aspect it has, because it’s not the most practical bookcase in the world, but this is offset by its appearance, by the idea… I consider that Italy or Milan or Northern Italy are still the center of the world of design and I must say that this is not only because of the design coming from Italy but above all for the manufacturing culture; there is no other place in the world where you can find artisans and industries, real industries, who know the value of design…”
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➤ DESIGNER
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CORBS IS A FRAME WITH A NEW HINGE IDEA THAT WAS INSPIRED BY THE VERTEBRAE IN ANIMALS
thing which didn’t exist before. When we started out on the project for the PQ eyewear collection it was clear that there is a great deal to do in this sector. This is only the beginning.
That’s what I read on your Internet site. Do you think that your eyewear collection will change the market? And that there will be a further step, will you try to express your final idea of a special eyewear model?
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Alex Barusco e Ron Arad
I have called this interview “10 x Ron”, which is my personal score for your work so far. You are one of my favorite designers/artists/architects in the world and I am really happy to meet you for this interview. Can you please give us a score, on your person and personality, forgetting the successes in your life. Alex, in turn you are my favorite interviewer, (I love it when you tell lies J - editor’s note). I am a fantastic person, kind, lovable, but very lazy. That’s why I work so hard.J. Designing is doing something new, some-
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When we started to design ophthalmic eyewear and sunglasses there were a lot of ideas on the table… it seemed easy and not costly. We have studied 8 collections and, in actual fact, we are ready with two and we are very excited about this debut at Mido, but we understand how difficult it is to produce eyewear by combining materials.
I am very curious to see your eyewear at Mido, especially CORBS, can you explain the concept of this model?
■ We took our inspiration from the vertebrae of animals… have a look at this link to find out more http://pq-eyewear.com/corbs/ line/overview/ You have probably realized that this is not a conventional interview, so it would be better … to continue on this road… so as not to lose my job with this magazine, or at least try not to lose it.
Corbs mod.Angel
something special, they have to suit various faces, they have various needs, it’s not like a chair which you design and people sit on it. You have to make eyewear comfortable for the person wearing them and they have to harmonize with their personality, so it’s really a different approach and more complicated.
And so, why eyewear? I mean, why not computers, a new kind of i-Pad???
I saw you at Silmo in Paris and you were wearing a nice little hat. Did you design that too? And did you make it for men as well?
Ohhhh Alex, I will surprise you. In fact, many years ago I had done a tablet for LG… it was called VU…go and look on You Tube… Eyewear… because two years ago someone asked me to work on this project. I understand that eyewear are
Yes, Alex, that too is one of my creations. We made it for a chain of fashion stores in London. After this one we made others and they sell very well. And yes, we have also ideated hats for men and unisex ones… you are a crazy boy! J
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Corbs mod. Waterloo
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➤ DESIGNER
DESIGNER
RON ARAD IS AN ARTIST, ARCHITECT, THINKER, DESIGNER AND TEACHER
At this point I’m sure I’ve lost my job. Anyway, I still have 4 wishes and I want to use them…. If you were God, how would you have conceived the world? If I were God, I would design a world with fewer people, there are really too many of us, and the planet can’t meet all their needs. A world without religion, without God, because if I were God the responsibility for natural disasters, every death, or every war would be mine and I don’t want to have that kind of problem on my hands. Tell me about your team, what do they do for you?
People seem happy here with me, they do everything I can’t do on my own. They are all very responsible and they work really hard, making life and the job easier for me. I don’t just depend on them for my designs or for the tablet projects. Where are you going? It’s been great meeting you, J, just to end in the right way, tell us what is the creative desire you haven’t worked on yet. You know, we work on projects our clients ask us to do, so there’s a budget, we hear what they want and we try to achieve it. What I have in mind is not achievable, it’s not applicable because of the spaces, the place and the amount of money it would probably take. Well, Ron, thanks a million for your time, I hope you had fun like I did in doing this interview… WHEN ARE WE GOING TO DO SOMETHING TOGETHER? Dear Alex, it’s up to you, I am completely available.
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(Ron’s lying again… I love him !!!!!)J ■ pq case
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GO�D LO�KING OUT
remeyewear.com 001.818.504.3950
Model: Onward © 2012 Converse Inc. All rights reserved.
Fashion
2013 Trends Seen by
Mazzucchelli 1849
M
azzucchelli 1849, a leading company in the production of cellulose acetate, is proposing its interpretation of trends for 2013 to the eyewear world. The international and, in particular, the European economic-financial scenarios have set new rules for austerity and behavior, marked by restraint and general sharing, but for this very reason, as happened in post-war years, there is also a strong need to leave behind the nightmare of recession and the monotony of globalization, to escape from the monotony of everyday life to rediscover forgotten family and social values, to re-invent our dreams in the conviction of being able to improve our lives. The post-industrial hangover had favored the arrival of an ephimeral, ostentatious culture. The effects of this crisis on the other hand favor a return to restraint in terms of quality, good taste and the culture of de-
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tails. “Curiosity” returns, emerging in the minds of consumers, generating the desire to take a closer look at our knowledge of products. We are seeking the features of naturalness and eco-sustainability; special artisan workmanship is valued and appreciated as a guarantee of quality together with those aesthetic or technological details which make the product unique. Fashion trends are therefore multiple, based on various factors such as naturalness, craftsmanship, authenticity, creativity, all interacting with each other and becoming one of the facets of a society in constant movement and cultural hybridization. New reference scenarios are thus taking shape, in which the consumer chooses according to personal paradigma, but never renouncing a hope for a better future and quality of life. And thus fashion also retrieves stylistic features from the ‘20s and ‘50s, the two important post-war periods marked by a refound joie de vivre and the hope for a better world. The roaring ‘20s are back with various facets, with an irresistible appeal made up of shiny, precious, ultrafeminine fabrics, for a refined elegance. Delicate nuances are lit up by irridescent reflections or outstanding metal details, while the more decided shades unfold in decorative patterns in-
There is a need to re-invent our dreams in the conviction of being able to improve our lives
spired by Art Deco. On the other hand, the ‘50s return to star with their serene optimism, narrated through a range of sugary pastel colors which create a new vintage aesthetics. Mazzucchelli interprets these general trends through the study of shades of colors and unique three-dimensional patterns, achieved in acetate and, in part, in the new M49 ecological formulation.
color in all its nuances, from turquoise to ultramarine. Forests and jungles create fantastic worlds to escape to, colored by plants and exotic flowers. The patterns on animal skins are re-elaborated with new technologies for special sensorial effects, while flowers re-appear in complete freedom with forms and colors inspired by the ‘60s and ‘70s.
Contemporary classic They are not simple vintage revivals, but reelaborations based on the concept that any classical element which is well-known, may become completely contemporary if reproposed in a different color key, simplified in shape, and stylized or interpreted in an abstract way. In eyewear, the major interpreters of this trend are havana and horn. Eternally classic, havana becomes ultramodern with brushstrokes of coral, cactus green, tuareg blue and tangerine, while horn reproposes the classical shades, but plays on transparencies.
Nature The plant, animal and marine worlds are always major sources of inspiration. There is a great interest in everything which recalls water and its transparency, underwater life, fishes with their shiny, irridescent skins, mother of pearl, oysters. For 2013 blue will be a fundamental
Geometrics Geometric forms follow precise rules inspired by ‘60s Pop Art, with color blockings à la Mondrian, or re-invent new rules of symmetry, with cuts with decided, clean lines creating unexpected crossovers. Stripes will also star, with contrasting twotone effects or brightly colored with very varied color rhythms. Sports style, with a strong color valency, will also influence the urban look for the Olympics.
The green world interpreted by Mazzucchelli with M49® Natural, organic, ecological, ecosustainable, ecofriendly, biodegradabile and recyclable. Respect for the environment and attention to natural resources are principles which must absolutely be respected. Research for new materials is increasingly driven in this direction, and M49, the Mazzucchelli bioplastic, will be able to meet all these needs. At Mido Mazzucchelli will be presenting new collections in M49, inspired by the artisan workmanship of wood, proposing a collection which reproduces the animalier effects always in great demand, with a new wild, abstract look. ■
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