POINT OF VIEW
NEWS FROM THE WORLD
The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2019
Edizioni Ariminum Srl - Via Negroli, 51/A - 20133 Milan - Italy
SPECIAL SILMO
www.omisan.com
GRAFICA ED. ARIMINUM
Fashion Trends Industry New Products Marketing & Economy VEDERE International September 2019 Publishing Director: Isabella Morpurgo
EDITORIAL 4 SILMO 6 ON STAGE@SILMO 10 NEW@SILMO 18 POINT OF VIEW 22 FIERE 36 NEWS 46
Interpreting market signals This autumn all markets, eyewear or not, are in fibrillation. Too many factors are changing at high speed and adapting is not always easy. Regarding eyewear, various revolutions are underway. At a global level, EssilorLuxottica, after the merger has been implemented, is doing large numbers and the recent purchase of the majority of the shares in GrandVision will force the retail market to make further choices. Safilo seems to recover from the dark years and other important players in the sector are making new choices. All this, in my opinion, has opened up new roads and spaces for independent opticians who, thanks to their peculiar identity, will be able to offer services and customizations unmanageable by larger entities. To try to better understand the different realities that make up our industry, starting with this issue, our magazine sees the collaboration of several experts who who will share with us their opinion on the situation in the section called “Points of View�.
We will therefore read the opinion of the pediatric ophthalmologist, the independent optician and the sales rep. Other specialists will join us in the next issues to have an increasingly complete picture. The upcoming events will help us further to deepen the mutations taking place. Between September and October, we will move, as far as the Italian market is concerned, from DaTE to Florence to Expo Ottica Sud in Taormina, while the international market will meet at Silmo in Paris and immediately after at IOFT in Tokyo. Have a good trip.
Isabella Morpurgo Publisher VEDERE International isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
SILMO 2019, a 360° trade fair With some thousand exhibitors covering the
nostalgics alike to video games dating from the
entire optical and eyewear industry, the SILMO
1980s to the early 2000s. According to a study by
is just as recognized and eagerly awaited for the
Ipsos Connect/ISFE for Gamesindustry 2018, 49% of
many activities that it offers, demonstrating its
the European players surveyed state that they love
philosophy: to combine information and discoveries
the old-school games of their youths, with the sound
with a fun, friendly spirit. A 360° trade fair that
effects, music and colour palettes that symbolize
offers professionals the opportunity to immerse
a whole generation. This phenomenon has not
themselves in this universe in a new way.
escaped the attention of the SILMO, which offers its
Here is an overview of the 2019 edition:
visitors to discover or rediscover three great video game classics to be revealed bit by bit before the
The SILMO HACKATHON
trade fair opens...
New in this edition and a world première: for 24
w w w. s i l m o p a r i s . co m / Eve n e m e nt s / S I L M O -
hours, five international multidisciplinary teams of five
Gaming
people each are invited to imagine tomorrow’s retail world. Open to professionals in vision, distribution,
SILMO D’OR: THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY
merchandising,
sciences,
The SILMO D’OR awards have been recognizing
marketing and production – from the optical world
companies all over the world since 1994, and this
or elsewhere, this collaborative event should provide
edition is an opportunity to look back on how much
some stimulating answers to the changes on the way.
these past 25 years have stimulated R&D with
design,
the
social
technological innovations and stylistic creations
6
SILMO GAMING
that have enabled the optical and eyewear world to
Retro gaming is in vogue, attracting enthusiasts and
make great strides.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
Christophe Pillet, Chairman of the Jury
agency in Paris in 1993.
SILMO D’OR 2019 awards
Christophe PILLET does not promote the narcissistic flourishes of a designer seeking
A French designer and interior architect of
to impress. His approach is sensitive and re-
international renown, Christophe PILLET is
strained; he is always inclined to first consi-
appreciated for his “clear expression, pur-
der the value of an object or place in terms
suit of simplicity and essential design.” After
of use before getting involved, never rushing
graduating from l’École nationale supérieu-
into a project. Which automatically makes
re d’art of Nice in 1985, Christophe PILLET
him the ideal chairman for the SILMO d’OR
joined the Domus Academy in Milan where
jury. He accepted this challenge with enthu-
he received his degree in 1986. While living
siastic interest, especially since he has alre-
in the capital of Lombardy, for four years he
ady had some initial experiences in the world
collaborated with Michele De Lucchi, Car-
of eyewear: in 2008, he designed a sunglas-
lotta de Bevilacqua and Martine Bedin. He
ses line for the 75th anniversary of Lacoste,
then joined Philippe Starck in Paris, where
and in 2017, Vuarnet requested his services
he worked from 1989 to 1993. Following the-
for its sports and lifestyle collections.
se diverse experiences, he founded his own
THE FRENCH TOUCH
of the future of the optical industry at the heart
Behind each exhibitor is a company, a story, an
of the trade fair, featuring theme lectures on the
identity, and enthusiastic, involved professionals: the
markets, innovative business corners that anticipate
SILMO pays tribute to them in words and images,
technological
with a focus on the experts of French eyewear.
discussion space to better grasp the transformations
w w w. s i l m o p a r i s . c o m / E v e n e m e n t s /A - l a -
underway in the optical and eyewear industry, and a
decouverte-du-savoir-faire-francais
variety of products and distribution services.
changes,
a
bustling
interactive
THE TALKS THE SELECTION
Each
At the SILMO NEXT space, and in a direct reflection
conferences, speeches and points of view on the
day,
the
SILMO
NEXT space
features
of the trends revealed in the Trends by Silmo
field. Within 30 minutes, each speaker presents a
publication, the Selection presents an exclusive,
perspective to help envision and understand the
selective panorama of trendy products by the
future.
exhibitors, a three-dimensional showcase of the digital magazine.
On the programme: • “The Future of Retail and the Value of Fit” by George
8
SILMO NEXT
Thaw, CEO of Fuel 3D
The futurology space remains the central hub
• “Smart Glasses vs Fashion Eyewear, threats and
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
and eyewear industry” by Dominique Cuvillier, CEO of Cuvillier Consultant, director of the Trends by Silmo publication Discover the complete, detailed programme: www. silmoparis.com/Evenements/SILMO-Next SILMO ACADEMY Keeping up to date with scientific progress and learning new practices: the SILMO ACADEMY is the place where opticians and vision specialists may develop their knowledge. This edition focuses on “refraction”: its disorders, its physiology, its solutions, prescriptions, and so on. The 10th Scientific symposium’s program - Sunday 29th, September 2019: en.silmoparis.com/SilmoAcademy/Scientific-symposium-program During the event, the Silmo Academy Scientific Council will grant, for the fourth consecutive year, a grant of € 10,000 for a scientific research project in the optical and vision field. The competition is open to all researchers or research teams who apply, subject to an application selection process. NOS CHERS OPTICIENS: THE WEB SERIES Since August 29th, the second season of the SILMO web series “Nos chers opticiens” has been following the adventures of Mathilde and Grégoire through seven new episodes, featuring new characters and possibilities on a new huge market” by Mikael Eriksson, CEO of Skugga Technologies AB • “Lexilens, the dyslexia-correcting eyeglasses” by
unexpected twists. www.silmoparis.com/Evenements/WebserieSILMO-Paris-Nos-Chers-Opticiens
Michael Kodochian, Innovation & Strategic Projects Director of Abeye • “Connected frames & Intelligent frames: a world of difference!” by Philippe Peyrard, CEO of Ellcie Healthy • “Imagining the Future of Eyewear Retail: Welcome to Atelier Futurity” by Dr Alireza Paradian, Head of Global Business Strategy for Wearables Materialise • “The digitalisation of frames to improve the purchasing experience” by Guido Cornettone, VP Marketing, and Dominique Bazin, VP Sales, of Fitting Box • “The glasses of the future” by Sébastien Brusset, CEO of JAW Studio • “How to humanise sales thanks to digital technology?” by Joël Nguyen, co-founder of Unimi • “Guidance for eco-responsible opticians” by Caroline Riehl, editor-in-chief of Les Lunettes Ecologiques Magazine • “Trends and Commitment, the new keys to success for your brands” by Virginie Corbasson, consulting director for Carlin • “Laclarée, a new technology of adaptive glasses to correct far-sightedness” by Jessica Jarosz, R&D engineer, and Bruno Berge, CEO, of Laclarée • “2020 market perspectives and trends in the optical
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
9
INVU launches revolutionary Magic Mirror technology
INVU
To showcase INVU’s ultra polarized lens technology Swiss Eyewear Group has integrated the latest LCD technology into an elegant, high-end glass mirror. The result: a stunning polarized mirror display that enables consumers to experience the true magic of ultra polarized lenses while trying on their favorite INVU sunglasses. “This is the new silent salesman for every optician who wants to benefit from the increased demand for polarized sunglasses”
says Jerry Dreifuss, CEO of Swiss Eyewear Group. “In the last five years INVU has become a global leader in high quality, affordable polarized sunglasses and this amazing innovation will further increase sell out and INVU’s leadership position.” Swiss Eyewear Group will present the new state-of-the-art Magic Mirrors as a world premier during the Silmo Fair along with the new 2020 INVU sunglass collections at the booth of ADCL, INVU’s distribution partner in France.
LARA D’ Diamond Italian Craftsmanship + Artistic Luxury Design Italian artisan brand, LARA D’ highlights three luxury frames in the precious Diamond Line for women following the exceptional success of the launch concept at Mido 2019.
The upper rim of each shape has a sophisticated architecturally inspired double structure decorated near the eyebrows with the shimmering polycrystalline diamonds to highlight the expression of the eyes. A beautiful and dazzling play of light is created, illuminating the face and the natural complexion of the wearer with finesse and quality, only achieved with a meticulous attention to the finest details.
Mod. Stella
LARA D’
100% Made in Italy, each of the Diamond frames recalls a classic shape, reinventing it with a chic, architectural rim and delightful sparkling finish. Each model has been expertly crafted by hand and covered in natural diamond powder by highly accomplished goldsmiths. Created to make an eye-catching statement, the three lightweight Diamond models are produced in a chic metal with a glamorous, shiny 24-carat 2-micron gold plating.
Mod. SPLA28 – Lewis 07
POLICE X LEWIS HAMILTON Police x Lewis Hamilton - the eyewear capsule collection designed by Police and five-time Formula 1™ World Champion, Lewis Hamilton – will unveil its 10 styles at Silmo. Following the announcement of the important sponsorship agreement with Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport, Police already presented 3 styles on occasion of the 2019 British Grand Prix at Silverstone.
DE RIGO
SPLA28 – Lewis 07 Mask style whose lines and materials are inspired by the world of sport and enriched with fashion-forward details and decorations. The soft rubber frame and bridge guarantee utmost comfort and a perfect fit. The metal structure is visible right along the top bar. The single lens is customised by Lewis Hamilton’s Panther logo topped by the Police logo. The temple tips are in hypoallergenic titanium. Available in 8 colour versions.
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SPLA24 – Lewis 03 Style featuring a round front piece and a double metal bridge. The temples are decorated with a lined pattern and Lewis Hamilton’s Panther logo. The temple tips in bio-acetate come with a titanium insert. Available in 4 colour versions. SPLA25 – Lewis 04 Metal model with a double bridge and a geometric hexagonally shaped front piece. The temples are decorated with a lined pattern and Lewis Hamilton’s Panther logo. The temple tips in bio-acetate come with a titanium insert. Available in 4 colour versions.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
ULTRA POLARIZED GLASS Brilliant Colors & Exceptional Clarity
VISIT US AT SILMO HALL 6, BOOTH F074
The 3 main factors of Jean Yves Mod. Carbon Sport Jean Yves, Taipei, Taiwan (R.O.C.), has been developing and providing the workable and favorable eyewear to potential customers based on three main factors: • Good-fitting • Good-looking • Good-selling
JEAN YVES
Carbonfiber Among the various products and processes proposed by this company, carbonfiber glasses deserve special attention. As many know, the fiber should be soft; but the carbonfiber becomes hard and sharp when it is subjected to heating, which is a necessary production process. Jean Yves owns a patent of carbonfiber production process, which is able to keep fiber soft. More, the original carbonfiber function eliminates the body’s static electricity. More, carbonfiber is a material that affect positively the fitting of a frame.
Mod. Moulding Shape
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
Moulding-Shape On occasion of Silmo in Paris, Jean Yves will also introduce a trendy collection, the Mould Shaping styles. Both frame and lens are moulded in order to create very special shapes, which cannot be made by handicraft. They look elegant and deluxe. Finally, Jean Yves has a professional and “passionate” staff always ready to give a quick response to the costumers.
Milano Eyewear Show February 29, March 1 - 2 | 2020
NEW@SILMO Founded in Italy in 2009 by a team of expert opticians, bob sdrunk eyewear brand is 100% hand made by Italian manufactures. Among the many new proposals at Silmo we will find Cassandra, an optical model in acetate with lenses with anti – glare filters.
Ray-Ban sets the mark for another exciting season with a new exclusive collection for Scuderia Ferrari. This unique collection transforms the blazing Ferrari red and Modena yellow, gleaming metal and black rubber of the racing legend’s cars into a signature eyewear range that includes both sun and optical. Underlining the exclusivity of these Ray-Ban for Scuderia Ferrari styles, all frames come with dedicated packaging and the Ray-Ban / Scuderia Ferrari Racing Shield on the lenses and temples.
The ACETATE BOLD Series by TREE SPECTACLES is defined by flawless lines and minimal aesthetics.
Mod Febo
Diesel Eyewear by Marcolin will be at Silmo also with mod DL0313, an iconic women’s sunglass which stands out with its slim metal edges in trendy shades. The temples are embellished with the “Diesel” logo and contrasting acetate tips, with an engraved metal motif that evokes the brand’s identity.
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
This collection brings special attention on the creative capabilities of TREE, an independent brand with a passion for design. With its expertise in mixing quality materials, this new acetate collection features four models, Febo, Hero, Creo and Zeno – and is a new departure where two classic materials – eco-friendly acetate and advanced Japanese titanium – come together in creative, head-turning styles.
CHICK is an Italian company with over ten years’ experience and leader in children’s and teen eyewear, now present in over 75 countries around the world. In autumn Chick will present a preview of many new models for children, a new advertising campaign and the renewed H.V.E. collection dedicated to a young audience, targeting 16-25 years.
Marcolin presents mod SK0239-P from the Atelier Swarovski Eyewear collction. A pair of fashion forward narrow cat-eye sunglasses sparkle with Pointiage® dégradé crystal application along the brow that are available in Grey or Blue Oil colors.
FLEYE Copenhagen’s “Nordic Light” collection transforms the beautiful Scandinavian light into new eyewear shapes and colorways. Inspired by the Danish Skagen Painters, a renowned Danish icon from the late 19th century, FLEYE Copenhagen has created an eyewear collection that captures the painters’ fabulous composition of colors and light.
NordicLight mod Jessie
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
19
NEW@SILMO CarbonWood by Jean-François Rey is a line of high-end optical frames which subtly mixes retro codes with a very contemporary design. The exceptional technicality and aesthetics of the models are the result of the superimposition of extremely thin carbon fibers with natural wood essences.
This unisex mask mod ML0128 by Moncler Lunettes is an eyecatching interpretation of the pilot shape and features a vintagesporty allure enriched by the iconic perforated logo in the front center. The frame’s monochrome acetate blinkers are attached to the tubular metal temples finished with long acetate tips and the new metal logo.
Mod JF2836 0030
Eyebag mod Butterfly
Zoobug London, the award-winning sunglasses brand for kids founded in 2006 by Dr Julie Diem, for the collection SS20 offers bold, engaging colours, statement-making tropical prints, geometric details and cool graduated effects. Zoobug’s iconic Butterfly dazzles in new outstanding colours of gradient pink or crystal flowers. The frame tones are paired with soft lens hues of Pink or Gold.
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
Fedon and Genetier, the French subsidiary of the Group, will be at Silmo Paris with a completely redesigned space. The Group’s commitment to environmental sustainability continues with the creation of their Portaocchiali, spectacle cases made with eco-friendly and alternative materials. The user manual dedicated to cleaning is very interesting and reproduced on a microfibre cloth. The new EyeBag thanks to the comfortable strap can be hung on the handle of the bag.
NEW@SILMO Dandy´s Eyewear collection by Faoflex Srl is born from passion and expertise that the company gained in over 35 years of work. The second release of 2019 foresees some recolouring of the models released in the first half and some big news. Among these are two models that aim to become warhorses: thicknesses that are always very evident, with a touch of attention to the external and internal aesthetics of the mask.
Xavier Garcia’s renewed identity does not forget its origins. The essential values are three: craftsmanship, avant-garde design, innovation. The AW 19 collection combines craft know-how with experimentation. Together with refined colour ranges and synthetic design, the introduction of titanium as the emblematic material of the collection takes the brand to the next level.
mod Galia
#scenesoflife at #oko after the story of the two best friends #BFF #STELLA & #NIKITA in Episode 1, we now get to meet in Episode 2 #EMILE & #ROSE #OKObyOKO. A new life begins at 30! Loving and good in their lives, this couple of thirties celebrates their move together, this is their first apartment! Emile ... For him, colored, designer style, elegant, with neat details and signed from the mark to the turtle Rose… For her, floral inspiration and superposition of petals for this fresh, spring-colored frame with acidic colors that combines different materials - acetate and steel.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
21
The Pediatric Ophthalmologist
Eyewear in pediatric age Pediatric spectacle frames have many differences compared to adult frames, primarily with regard to pediatric facial features. There are several parameters including the interpupillary distance, the interorbital distance and the position of the corneal vertex with respect to the lateral orbital wall that change more between 5-15 years compared to adulthood. The shape and proportions of a child’s skull are rounder than that of an adult; the nostrils together with the nasal bridge are not completely formed and are therefore unable to support the glasses as in an adult. This transfers the supporting role to the glabella or requires the use of silicone nose pads often in the form of a strap or saddle; in addition, less prominent eyebrows require a frame
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
Professor Adriano Magli President of SIOP Italian Society of Pediatric Ophthalmology
that is better suited to the face. This means that pediatric spectacle frames must be accurately adapted and must be changed more frequently than those of an adult to ensure good positioning and more pleasant and effective use; moreover, an improper fit reduces comfort and effectiveness of the frame and leads to a reduced use of glasses. The ideal spectacle frame for children should consider several important factors including: Materials: the ideal frame should be robust but flexible, atraumatic and also able to absorb impact, avoiding sharp edges or corners to minimize possible harmful effects. The choice of biocompatible, hypoallergenic, non-toxic and easily washable materials are additional key features in the design of children’s glasses.
Since children are physically more active than adults, glasses can be attached to the head with a strap or flexible end pieces. Furthermore, children with a single sighted eye should ideally be equipped with a polycarbonate lens for greater eye safety. Optics: from an optical point of view, the frames must be made to ensure stability and adequate centering, through the support of the upper part of the nasal pyramid. Psycho-social impact: although the aesthetics of pediatric glasses is not their main feature, it cannot be neglected. Studies have shown that compliance in wearing glasses in children under 8 has little to do with improving vision and much more with aesthetics and peers’ opinion. Ethnic differences: it is evident that there are significant craniofacial differences between the different ethnic groups. This means that it is unlikely that a spectacle frame design would be suitable for every child in an increasingly cosmopolitan environment where children of different ethnicity are present. Considering that in children the correction with glasses, when necessary, has an important role in visual development, in visual rehabilitation and in the treatment of disorders of ocular motility, it is evident that even a suitable frame, given the above, is of primary importance and is not negligible.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
23
Amon
gli occhiali senza tempo
The Independent Optician
A new value system
Franca Bochicchio Ottica & Glasstylist ® DIECIDECIMI ® – Milano Blogger glasstylist.com
Ferdinand De Saussure, founding father of mo-
cause, while attending the college, it allowed me
dern linguistics, in his early twentieth-century
to understand many concepts related to the stu-
Genevan courses compared the language, in-
dy of the languages, as an extraordinary mean in-
tended as a system, to the game of chess where
vented by men to communicate and understand
every single move modifies the whole system: by
each other, while today it provides me with a dif-
changing the relations between any of the pieces
ferent point of view to evaluate the “evolutions” of
on the board you’ll going to change the board it-
what it’s surrounding me either in my day-by-day
self, thus setting up a new system to act on. De
job as well as in the wider optics world.
Saussure made use of this metaphor to explain the evolutionary nature of the languages and,
In the optics sector we have been lately accusto-
therefore, their ability to change while the time
med to a number of fast and continuous “rede-
passes by.
fining the system” changes, quite instantaneous if compared to the above mentioned linguistic
I have always loved this simple comparison be-
changes, which have redesigned a new scenario Credit Monica Rossetti
26
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
likely to be studied, evaluated and even cultiva-
At the time of the merger with Essilor, the Cava-
ted. These changes have been dictated by some
liere Del Vecchio clearly stated that his business
of the big biz players such as EssilorLuxottica (and
model is based on the vertical integration of all
other major companies who approached similar
the supply chain branches: from the raw material
mergers) who first joined forces industrial wise
to the marketing, from the sales till the end cu-
and eventually expanded their grip towards the
stomer, which honestly sounds like a “vertical do-
end customer, as the Grandvision Group summer
mination” more than an integration: a top-down
acquisition is implying. This way the Cavaliere Del
decision-making power at all levels of the supply
Vecchio, the pioneer entrepreneur, has strongly
chain epitomized by the same type of recogniza-
contributed with his vision and his ability to lead,
ble and unequivocal format of his network stores.
within a couple of decades, the whole optical
The only relevant change brought in by his last
sector into an “outlandish” dimension that was
move on the board is the choice to increase the
unthinkable until recently. In a very recent inter-
recursion of the retail department and the num-
view (Corriere della Sera, August 1st, 2019) Del
ber of points of sale. It is understandable that the
Vecchio stated that the goal of his company “has
aim is to create the idea in the end customer that
never been to compete with independent opti-
there is nothing else in the optics sector than that
cians - from whom my entrepreneurial adventure
type of store, that identity, no other choice, a bit
started, and this I never forget - but to work to-
like what happens with those always on adverti-
gether to make the market evolve “. Well, if we
sements where the same brands are repeatedly
accustom our eyes as independent opticians to
broadcasted, on and on for weeks and months in
the enlightened vision of this new system of rela-
the magazines and the media.
tionships, we cannot but agree with the Cavaliere and be akin with his evolutionary and collabora-
The independent opticians, concentrated in a few
tive vision. “Working together” implies the ability
“surviving pawns”, acts as a counterpart to all of
to accomplish to different jobs able to integrate
this huge, gargantuan, homologated reality made
themselves, while leveraging on their own diffe-
up of large numbers. They are the link between
rentiating assets.
the end customer and the independent supply chain, those integrates “horizontally”. A free and
Those humongous network stores that are
independent value chain which starts from the
typifying the Italian territory, as well as the Euro-
ideas of the designers and continues its path in
pean and worldwide ones, have, and more and
the selection of raw materials, frames, lenses and
more will have, a specific and homologized iden-
passes from the producers who realize the ideas,
tity, defined by the industrial strategy they belong
winds along the path of the agents who perso-
to in terms of design, production, distribution,
nally preside over the territories to transport pro-
organization, employees, product assortment,
ducts and transfer the ideas of those who worked
communication, marketing, and so on and so
with passion to the opticians who make their se-
forth.
lection.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
27
At the center of this small world there is still the
to the biological origin of the concept of luxury
end customer, the time we allow to listen and
that underpins the perception of “luxurious as
informing him, the services based on the expe-
something rare”, difficult to find - and therefore
rience that the store offers, the quality of the se-
steeped in scarcity (from Il Sole 24 Ore, article by
lection, the care we put in the product display in
Lorenzo Dornetti). “Offline is the new luxury” ac-
the windows, our own professionalism ... all levers
cording to the futurologist Gerd Leonhard who
that lead to a job well done and that naturally
understands the offline as a break from the stan-
becomes profitable. The exiguity of this type of
dardized online.
stores responds to a principle that the aforementioned big players have contributed to further en-
Leaving aside the concept of Offline as an added
hance: the principle of scarcity.
value compared to the Online (with all due respect to those who already are thinking to open
28
In an article published last July on the Il Sole 24
those hyper-technological and hyper-connected
Ore, the journalist spoke about the principle of
stores in the near future) “the principle of scarcity”
scarcity as the basis for an analysis of the con-
seems to be perfectly fitting for the independent
cept of luxury that experts and futurologists have
opticians: entrepreneurs of themselves, selectors
identified as being “offline” - in contrast with the
of those very products which are aligned to their
current habit of being always and everywhere
tastes, to the philosophy of their store, to their cu-
“online” and share every moment and every ex-
stomers, to which they try to give quality, innova-
perience. It seems that the big brands and the
tion, originality, refinement and personality. There
most luxurious hotels are currently focusing on
is no independent optician’s point of sale who is
the idea of offline in shops and hotels in order to
the same to another because they are small en-
provide customers with what is really exclusive:
tities where people is making the difference in
an experience that cannot be shared if not for
every single moment of the customers’ shopping
those present in the actual location, responding
experience and not simply the “Brand”, the digi-
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
We cannot relax nor lessen the attention to our customer, from the moment we welcome him with a smile, when we listen to his needs and we try to combine visual requirements, expectations and demands, always reminding ourselves that around the corner there is a very aggressive competitiveness. But it is a role that pays satisfaction not only in the store but also in the collaboration with the rest of the independent supply chain where we freely relate and respect each other, beyond the numbers. So here we are, the small independent opticians wonderfully challenging the same chessboard with the giants of the sector .... and therefore, let’s close the ranks! Those who enter our stores will do so with greater awareness. They have already decided to want tal mirrors, the augmented reality or any other
more, to want something different: an experience
“exotic” technology. Thanks to today’s massive
that we will be able to offer to those who want to
presence of the above mentioned homologized
look for it because we are… unconventional opti-
network are becoming increasingly rare, more
cians.
and more precious and more and more “scarce”. Returning to our initial chessboard, it seems that the checkmate that in recent years the big companies have given to independent activities in the optics sector, has created opportunities for the enhancement of the latter, anticipating such a clear and defined role for both the organizations that would have been difficult to achieve with a normal evolution of the sector. The collaboration craved by Cavaliere Del Vecchio that aims to the market evolution seems therefore possible in the way in which everyone maintains his role and defends it for the benefit of the system in which the opposing forces, beyond their size, define each other role. As an independent optician, I know how difficult it is to maintain this role in which you have to spend body and soul without giving up a single moment.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
29
The Sales Rep
Face the changes
Cristian Rossi Marchon Sales Rep Marchon District Manager Blogger on www.vedicomevendi.blogspot.com
My name is Cristian Rossi, sales rep since 1999; this space in “VEDERE” is the most rewarding way to celebrate 20 years of activity in the optical sector. For a year I am also District Manager of Marchon and I coordinate a team of five agents in my territory of competence. Convinced that the commercial agent is turning into a much more authoritative and necessary figure than the simple “glasses salesman”, I began to hold training courses and sales preparation for shops with many collaborators to facilitate and improve their work. A few years ago, I opened a blog to share the experience acquired in my daily visits and to report the teachings that often derive from a pleasant comparison with the best opticians. A clear concept emerged while talking to several opticians and it is now the basis of my blog: today we experience a period of crisis for which it is not functional to wait for its end because we are in a moment of deep, lasting and inexorable change. Waiting for the end of an unspecified “crisis” today means losing precious growth and improvement opportunities that would make us project ahead of all the others. “How good it was before!” “When I started working in the shop the customers weren’t that demanding” “Once everything was easier, today it’s all complicated” “Once upon a time we made good money!”
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
Are you familiar with these phrases? What was really going on in the years when it was easy to make some good money? To answer this question, I would like to resume today a theme from my blog. The evolution of the Italian companies focus from the 60s to today Please pay close attention to the following because it could make you understand what the right move is to definitively come out of the swamp in which perhaps you are with both shoes. Ready? Let’s go! 60s-70s: product / price orientation In those years there were very few companies and it was enough to open a warehouse or a shed or a shop where to produce at an affordable price that specific glass everyone asked for, and the HUGE demand for that product or service did the rest. So, in the 70s the orientation was simply: to have the product, perhaps at a price that ordinary people could buy. Nothing else was needed. 80s: service orientation In the following years then we move towards service orientation.
That is, since many companies were born in the meantime covering open market demands, the difference was made by those who, in addition to the product, also supported a minimally structured service related to the object that justified the purchase by the people. 1990s: customer orientation In the following decade we come to the concept of “customer orientation” that we have all heard and “chewed” for years. That is: • be available to the client’s individual needs • be kind to the customer • satisfy the customer’s needs • understand the customer • become a friend of the client • create a relationship of trust with the customer, etc. These rules are always true and valid, but today they no longer make the difference. Today, the product, service, and customer orientation are no longer minimal elements to enter or remain in the market. The minimum in the 70s was to have the product; the minimum in the 80s, in addition to the product, was the added service; in the 90s the competition was pushing the doors and customer orientation really made the difference. Today: orientation to COMPETITION What does it mean? It means that today as an entrepreneur I must base all my strategy on the angles of attack and the differences I have over the competition. So, create a placement that is very relevant to a niche (or part of it) of people who may prefer me over my competitors. This is selling today. An entrepreneur cannot say what he wants without evaluating the other competitors: today he can only develop what competition has not yet perfected. That is, work with our product / service or our way of selling on the corners left exposed by others. All the talk about quality, service and customer orientation are insufficient today until I approach a customer with a shooting angle that is unthinkable for the competition and that allows me to become his FIRST CHOICE.
Therefore, without starting from an analysis of my direct competition it is not possible for me to become a professional seller. Marketing par excellence today is not “discrediting the competition” but highlighting the strategic differences that allow me to be evaluated as, I repeat, the FIRST CHOICE for that part of customers useful to my business. I hope that these considerations will be helpful and, above all, as always, I recommend you look around, with a clear mind and ready for change. Greetings to everyone. Rossi Cristian DM Marchon
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
35
IOFT 2019
The International Optical Fair Tokyo (IOFT) organised by Reed Exhibitions Japan and Fukui Optical Association, will come back on October 8 – 10 at Tokyo Big Sight, Japan. It will be the 32nd edition of the show and the exhibition halls are expected to be filled with 370 Exhibitors and 14,000 buyers and an increasing
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
number of international brands involved. The concept of IOFT 2019 is simple – “Firm business platform in Japan and Asia”. The concept has not changed, and the show is expected to generate even hotter edition. Many previous exhibitors and new companies have already secured their space.
5 Exhibiting Zones • Fukui Zone-”Made in Japan” products especially from Fukui (Fukui prefecture is Japan’s major eyewear production area). • Designers Zone- Featuring Japan and international designers’ brands. • General Zone - Exhibiting eyewear accessories, testing equipment, Lenses and frames. • Luxury Zone- Showcasing all kinds of luxury eyewear, including platinum, gold, and jewels. • IOFT Boutique- Dedicated to the most avantgarde and expressive eyewear. Events held at IOFT 2019 • Opening Ribbon-Cutting Ceremony. The show will start with an opening ribbon-cutting cere-
mony (8th Oct 2019. AM 9:30- at In front of IOFT reception】 • 23rd Japan Eyewear Award (JEA). It takes place annually inside International Optical Fair Tokyo (IOFT). It selects and honors the best new design eyewear to be introduced in this fall and winter. It consists of 5 categories: Men’s Eyewear, Ladies’ Eyewear, Kids Eyewear, Sunglasses, Functions & Technologies, and from each category, three winning products and a Grand Prix product will be announced. 【8th Oct 2019. PM 13:00- at Special Stage in the Exhibition Hall】 • IOFT Reception Party & 32nd Japan Best Dressed Eyes Awards【8th Oct 2019. PM 18:30- at Reception Hall)
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
37
Hong Kong International Optical Fair 2019
38
The 27th edition of the Hong Kong International
cessories, Sporting & Professional Eyewear, Kids
Optical Fair gathers over 810 exhibitors from over 20
Eyewear & Reading Glasses, Frames, Lenses & Parts,
countries and regions to showcase the latest design
Eyewear Accessories, Diagnostic Instruments, as
trends and eyewear products, providing a one-stop
well as Optometric Instruments & Machinery.
marketing and sourcing platform for the industry.
Various industry events will explore new trends
The Brand Name Gallery, one of the highlights of
and innovations in the optical industry. Highlighted
the fair, features around 230 international renowned
events include the 17th Hong Kong International
brands, including Bestwork, Big Horn, bTd, Etnia Bar-
Optometric Symposium, which will welcome ex-
celona, EYEVAN, HACHill, JAPONISM, Lafont, Laura
perts to share their insights on the topic of “Advance-
Ashley, LIINTA, Markus-t, MATSUDA, MINIMA, Oh
ments in Optometric Specialties”. To foster local cre-
My Glasses TOKYO, Paul Hueman, Paul Frank, STEP-
ativity and innovation, the HKTDC joins hands with
PER, Pugnale, Superdry, and William Morris.
HKOMA to organise the 21st Hong Kong Eyewear
This year’s Optical Fair features various thematic
Design Competition under the theme of “MUSE”.
zones, showcasing a broad spectrum of eyewear
Designs of the finalists will be on display during the
products to facilitate precision sourcing, including
fair period, unveiling unique local creativity to inter-
IT Solutions & Shop Fittings, Contact Lenses & Ac-
national buyers.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
Vision Expo West 2019
Vision Expo West - September 18-21, 2019, Sands
ry29—a leading next generation media and enter-
Expo, Las Vegas, NV - will gather over 15,000 eyeca-
tainment company—as the keynote speaker for this
re professionals, buyers, and influencers.
year’s EYE2EYE Series. Gelardi will share her expe-
New education at Vision Expo West 2019 will offer at-
riences and approach to cultivating creativity in her
tendees a wide range of tracks, courses, workshops
presentation, Courageous Creativity with Piera Ge-
and competitions featuring the latest in leadership,
lardi, in the new Exhibit Hall destination the BRIDGE
marketing, patient care and more with real-time
on Thursday, Sept. 19.
planning and interactive demonstrations. With over
The Next Generation of Retailers - Speed Dating is
300 hours of educational content available, attende-
the new event at this year’s Show. For the first time
es will have the opportunity to fulfil multiple aspects
ever, new and potential business owners will have
of their professional aspirations.
the opportunity to meet one-on-one with some of
This year’s exclusive Boutique Buyer Panel, titled
the industry’s most successful independent retailers
Freedom Sighters, will feature a highly respected
to learn the ins and outs of business ownership.
group of panelists to provide attendees a complete look at the realm of independent eyewear. Available at Vision Expo West on Saturday, Sept. 21, only, the new Career Zone (Booth #LP4121) will offer an environment designed to connect corporate optical companies and associations with potential hires. Vision Expo West announced Piera Gelardi, cofounder and executive creative director of Refine-
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
69822
69821
SILMO: HALL 6 D099 HKTDC: 1C- D15& 17
opti 2019
opti marks the start of a new year for the optical industry. The next International Trade Show for Optics & Design will take place from 10th to 12th January 2020 at Fairground Munich, once again spanning six halls – and the offering for trade visitors to opti 2020 remains one thing above all else: comprehensive. opti is more than a product showcase and stage for stars and start-ups. Alongside innovations in the fields of technology and design, it also offers the opportunity to build meaningful new connections and gather information. Visitors will be able to expand their knowledge also through specialist lectures at the opti FORUM. The opti SHOWCASE, an interactive discovery area in Hall C4, will once again focus on a key topic for the industry. In 2020 trade show visitors will enter the halls via the Entrance North-West and Entrance NorthEast. The north entrance will be reserved exclusively for use by exhibitors and service partners. Shuttle buses from metro stops “Messestadt
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
West” and “Messestadt Ost” and the airport shuttle will stop at the Entrance North-East. opti to get a new home in 2021 In 2021, 2023 and 2025 opti will be held at the Messe Stuttgart. In these odd years, in fact, Fairground Munich is only able to give opti exhibitors a narrow window of time in which to construct their stands due to the BAU, the world’s leading trade fair for Architecture, Materials and Systems taking place beforehand. Messe Stuttgart offers the best premises for these purposes: the event grounds are extremely modern. The infrastructure is excellent, and the Messe is superbly connected to transport systems, whether visitors are arriving by car, train, bus or aeroplane. Visitors can even walk to the halls from Stuttgart Airport as the fairground is only 355 steps away. Stuttgart itself is located in the southwest of Germany, about 200 kilometers from Munich.
Dubai Optical Show Vision – X 2019
Dubai Optical Show Vision - X presents comprehensive focused 3 days of business matchmaking and exhibition connecting MENA regions buyers with eyewear and eye care industry. This year the major focus of the event is offering prime opportunity to exhibitors to meet and do business with 20 pre-arranged buyers from Middle East, Mediterranean, Africa and Subcontinent. With a strong line-up of industry announcements and participation from the international and regional top brands, Dubai Optical Show Vision-X 2019 is going to be a highly anticipated platform that will bring together industry manufacturers,
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
suppliers and distributors all under one roof. To be held at Dubai World Trade Centre from 12 – 14 November 2019. MENA region will be a source of growth for international brands particularly within the mid-range eyewear sector. In the GCC alone, Gfk estimates the optics market to be worth €1.6 billion while the overall Middle East market has been predicted at €2.4 billion. The show will present 3 days of business matchmaking opportunities connecting MENA region buyers with eyewear and eye care industry. The show strategy is focused on pre-arranged business meetings through a selective hosted buyer program.
NEW CONCEPT NEW BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES 12-14 NOV 2019 | DUBAI WORLD TRADE CENTRE
3-days Business matchmaking and exhibition connecting MENA Region Buyers with Eyewear and Eye care Industry CONTACT US NOW To book your space or discuss about partnership opportunities
Nadeera Jayaratne Sales Manager +9715 0 9393804 Nadeera.Jayaratne@dwtc.com
Burcin Tas Assistant Sales Manager + 97156 6 8684217 Burcin.Tas@dwtc.com
Ashish Sakhardande Marketing Manager +9715 6 6599866 ashish.sakhardande@dwtc.com
Organised by
dubaiopticalshow.com
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CAZAL goes Museum In the 1970s, when most people regarded eyewear mainly as visual aids, the designer Cari Zalloni developed new aesthetic definitions for the CAZAL label jointly founded with Günter Böttcher in 1975. Zalloni banked on frames that stood out with their unusual, architectural design, the high quality of the execution and functional attributes. CAZAL eyewear drew attention to itself through prominently staged lines, genuine gold plating and the integration of technical details as ornamental elements, entirely in line with Zalloni’s credo: “CAZAL eyewear must be recognisable from the other side of the street.” What nobody had counted on was the emergence of a counterculture in the South Bronx, New York, which adapted CAZAL eyewear and elevated it into coveted lifestyle accessories. The iconic style of CAZAL has remained a key component of pop culture to this day, and is characteristic of the late 70s and early 80s. Many artists and pop stars of all genres still wear CAZAL Vintage eyewear. The New Collection – The Design Museum dedicates the exhibition “CAZAL Eyewear meets American Hip Hop” to this unusual synthesis with selected models and unpublished design studies of Cari Zalloni in the FUTURO house of the Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art) in Munich. Exhibition: Pinakothek der Moderne, München FUTURO-Haus Barer Str. 40 / 80333 München 12.07.2019 – 31.01.2020
Tom Davies Raises Awareness of Sustainability British eyewear brand Tom Davies unveiled its ‘Under the Sea’ window display for this year’s Chelsea in Bloom, inspired by the wonderful underwater world and the need to conserve and protect our oceans. After winning the Chelsea in Bloom ‘Innovation Award’ in 2017, Tom Davies teamed up with florist Elizabeth Marsh to create this year’s blue floral wall to represent the movement of water over a bed of sand, coral, seaweed and various oyster shells made from recycled plastic, moss and flowers. A wave created with blue and white flowers can also be seen on the top of the shop front crashing into the store. Due to Tom Davies’ active movement towards positive luxury, elements of sustainability were brought into the floral display, such as clams handmade from recycled plastic and the lack of oasis floral foam due to its toxic elements and negative affect on the sea and marine life. To mark this occasion, Tom Davies has also designed an exclusive range of seaweed and clam shaped frames created from recycled premium acetate which feature in the window display.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2019
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The Area98 Brands in Venice Coco Song, CCS, La Matta, Kaos, Robert Rüdger. These are the brands of the Area98 family, an Italian company based in Pavia di Udine, Friuli Venezia-Giulia, guests of the historic and prestigious Venetian café, “Lavena” in the heart of the most famous worldrenowned Italian square. “There is no location that can represent the value and richness of the glasses that I display and sell every day in my shop better than Cafè Lavena. It is a real tribute to Italian beauty and good taste”, says Silvana Miotto enthusiastically and full of emotion; she is the owner of the “Venezia Oro &OCCHIALI” optical goods shop located in Calle De San Luca. And so, in the historic Venetian café that over the centuries has hosted personages of the caliber of Richard Wagner, the novelties of the collections of some of the brands produced by Area98 were exhibited with a flute of prosecco in hand and the music of the orchestra that every day is the background music to the beautiful Piazza San Marco.
Porsche invests in Israeli Startup TriEye Israeli startup TriEye, whose Short-Wave-Infra-Red (SWIR) sensing technology enables vision in adverse weather and night-time conditions, has expanded its Series A round to $19 million with an investment from the German sports car manufacturer Porsche. The additional funding will be used for ongoing product development and operations, as well as team growth. Porsche Ventures seeks strategic investments in business models relating to customer experience, mobility and digital lifestyle, as well as in future technologies such as artificial intelligence, blockchain and virtual and augmented reality. Through its venture capital activities, the sports car manufacturer Porsche invests in new companies that are in the early and growth phases. The TriEye’s CMOS-based Raven camera, whose initial samples are due to launch in 2020, is designed to save lives on the roads. Once integrated, the camera will allow ADAS and AV to achieve unprecedented vision capabilities under common adverse weather and low-light conditions such as fog, dust or night-time.
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The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2019
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