VEDERE International 2/2023

BACK TO THE FUTURE

The MIDO ‘hangover’ has passed. And it was a good one. Let’s admit it, after the break caused by the pandemic and the 2022 edition in May as in the distant past, we all arrived a little unprepared for the date at the beginning of February, it seemed very early and instead was just a ‘return to normality’. We will get used to it again.

It was undeniably a great MIDO. Too short though. I am one of the strong advocates of a four-day duration. In three days there is no time for a moment’s reflection, an in-depth examination, a search for the new, a hello to friends.

At MIDO, we saw the return of foreign buyers. The most active among Italian and non-Italian opticians are the independent opticians who, in order to increase the loyalty of their clientele with special, design and sustainable proposals (a basic theme these days), are always present in large numbers at every sector event in Italy and abroad. The others are either part of labels and chains that choose for them or rely on the proposals, and fashion brands, of the big companies that often invite them to dedicated events. I do not think it is only the high costs of Milan that hold them back from visiting what is the most important event in the world. Perhaps there is also a touch of laziness accustomed as they are, especially in Italy, to receive many visits from the companies’ sales network.

A topic that our magazines will be exploring in the coming months is that of intellectual property infringement, which poses a serious threat to SMEs in the EU.

The European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO) and the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) published the study ‘Unlawful Trade of Counterfeit Products: The Risks for Small and Medium-sized Enterprises’ which shows that SMEs whose intellectual property is infringed are less likely to survive (34 % less) after five years. This problem particularly affects independent SMEs that are not part of a large corporate group and SMEs that suffer patent infringements.

It is worth noting that half of the counterfeit products seized at EU borders that infringed SMEs’ intellectual property rights were purchased online.

See you soon

Isabella Morpurgo Publisher

Thank you!

I needed time after Mido to “metabolise” all the emotions that the 70th anniversary celebration of VEDERE at the fair brought me.

We had been thinking about this anniversary for months in the office, a thousand projects, ideas chasing each other, consultations of the magazine’s annals with my consequent “dips in the heart” in front of the evidence of all my father’s (the founder) and my own experience.

Then we were caught up in the whirlpool of pre-fair frenzy and the preparation of our MIDO Special, the delays (ours and the companies’) were piling up, the working days and nights too short and too few, so we ‘came back down to earth’ and our celebration took the form of a toast at the fair with family, friends, customers/friends and colleagues and a few pages dedicated to the anniversary in the magazine. I wanted to prepare a speech, to study point by point what I wanted to say and narrate, but I know myself and I arrived at the fateful moment without a written word but a whirlwind of emotions in my head at the sight of so many smiling faces in the audience. And I let my heart speak....

I have lived 33 of these 70 years in first person, no longer protected by the beloved and reassuring father figure, but fully responsible for my every choice, for better or for worse. Mistakes, perhaps many, but compensated by just as many satisfactions and the joy and pride of still being in the industry, the same publishing house, the same imprint, with a format and contents that have evolved with the market, always trying to be able to interpret it.

And the backs ‘covered’ by tenacious and tireless co-workers who always supported and comforted me at the right time, to whom my ‘thank you’ goes first and foremost. It was truly an informal celebration, as we wanted, and the joy of seeing how many people came to celebrate with us was great. The whole sector was represented and I felt the love and esteem tangible. Thank you all!

Isabella Morpurgo - Publisher of VEDERE

Product Manager, Creative Director and specialist consultant in the eyewear sector for both Retail and Wholesale, he works with major manufacturers as well as emerging companies, developing winning collections and trends.

He supports sales and marketing teams to achieve their objectives, proactively suggesting tactical and strategic actions both in terms of marketing and through the application of category management rules, anticipating consumer and market needs. As a qualified optician and optometrist, he designed and strategically managed assortments for 10 years in large Italian optical retail companies.

fabioava@hotmail.com

THE MAN WHO IS STILL MISSING

About a year ago, our parting thoughts were that there was an imbalance between the product proposals in Eyewear to the detriment of the Men’s universe. A lot has happened this year both in our sector and in fashion in general, things that have partly upset certain balances and partly accelerated evolutionary processes.

We have witnessed, for example, the exit of personalities from their role as ‘creative directors’ who have become ‘gurus’, as in the striking case of Alessandro Michele for Gucci, which had objectively determined an overbearing turn towards the so-called ‘gender fluid’ and the contamination without distinction of genders even in a category such as eyewear, of which Michele himself had a great passion, and which coincided with the birth within that luxury pole of an entity dedicated to our sector such as Kering, which in the last seven years has ridden this wave, in fact imposing its own vision on the entire market. A market which, however, is much more composite and transversal in terms of actual consumption and which, if read and interpreted correctly, cannot be disregarded as being much more generalist in terms of overall volumes from which to draw for the daily sustenance of the point-of-sale business.

As a result, models that the English would define as ‘bold’ had become widespread in terms of acetate

FABIO AVARELLO

thicknesses, dimensions (certainly very attractive because they were very fashionable, but often technically unmanageable, especially on the sight side), a return to logomania and, above all, a certain ‘feminisation’ of the proposals, if compared with the real and effective sell-out data of the retail outlets, have not been rewarding and, albeit to a certain extent, have certainly not favoured sales, which, on the other hand, we must remember always derive from satisfying the real needs of the consumer, who in the meantime has become more aware and autonomous as regards the diktats of the past.

The return to trade fairs in presence, as was the very important appointment of Mido 2023, has for the most part confirmed this trend with respect to the proposals also presented by many ‘independent brands’, also confirming that they have not generated a different vision to that of the big majors, perhaps because the ease of following the wave continues to prevail on the one hand, and on the other a certain self-referentiality that does not favour a critical reading of their own initiatives and above all that of the needs and desires of the end consumer.

The recent Autumn-Winter 23/24 catwalks and the entire design world have predicted a new and more contemporary return to the minimalism of the 1990s, from which the Man of Style will certainly benefit, but of which we still see no trace in the eyewear proposals, i.e.: more balanced dimensions, more contained volumes and thicknesses, more roundedness and less angularity. In short, that ‘sobriety’ that has been missing, without forgetting the correct quality/price ratio that has honestly been lost.

In this regard, and aside from all the problems related and connected to cost increases (and speculations), those who determine the collections seem to forget the fundamentals of their success, after obviously the adequate and correct reading and interpretation of the target customer’s needs and desires, i.e. the 3 P’s of

the Marketing Mix: Product, Price and Promotionality. The ‘price’ factor, therefore, which is certainly the final driver of a product’s overall ‘goodness’, is not, however, a secondary variable, especially for the category of purchasers such as men, who are traditionally and generically more careful and less vague about all their purchases, no product category excluded. The hope is that this vast field left (still) uncovered or marginalised by many will be filled with appropriate content as soon as possible. It is an extremely important opportunity, also and above all for brands and independent opticians, a competitive advantage to be grasped for that common goal of differentiation from the manufacturing giants and the sector’s large-scale organised distribution, subjects that are extremely increasingly intertwined and, therefore, also increasingly less flexible and differentiating in terms of offerings and different proposals that are more responsive to the market, especially the market of this ‘Man’ that continues to be missing.

I-SPAX by Imago

I-SPAX is one of Imago Eyewear’s largest and most popular collections, successfully distributed to partners and wholesalers in the eyewear business all over the world for more than 20 years.

The collection’s name I-SPAX - short for “eye and spectacles” - which is admittedly the easiest but also coolest way to name a new brand, was born on a road trip to visit the company’s suppliers in Italy in 1999 and has been a road to success ever since.

Imago is based in the picturesque landscape of southern Bavaria and is owned by Rainer Leapple and Marco Finster. Supported by 25 dedicated employees they continue their great track record of the past decades.

Inspired by the beautiful nature surrounding their workspace, they develop up to 90 new styles each year for 7 different collections; these are IMAGO ULTRALIGHT, PIX, IMAGO VERDE, spaxies, IMAGO Titanium, Greenline by Colorline and I-SPAX

Of course, every one of those brands has their distinguishing feature to set it apart from the rest of the range. Unique to I-SPAX is its clean and simple design combined with a large variety of shapes, materials, colours, sizes and types, serving many tastes and audiences across a wide spectrum at a fair and affordable price.

Men’s frames are a particularly strong suit of the I-SPAX brand. The sophisticated, yet timeless designs come in several sizes up to 60mm. For some models stylish sun clips are available, lending the wearer a fashionably retro look.

I-SPAX always takes care to offer great quality and therefore uses mostly German frame parts such as hinges, screws and nose pads. Their spring hinges are often exchangeable and therefore it is not necessary to replace the temple if the hinge is broken. Instead, the small hinge part is easily exchanged within seconds.

Along with that, Imago Eyewear is always committed to lower their environmental footprint, for example by changing to ecofriendly materials for packing supplies, frame holder bags and promotional items. All are made from recyclable or recycled material, largely produced in the surrounding area.

mod Bennet

mod Baxter

Morel’s proposals for men

Morel par Jean Nouvel and Nomad in colors

Morel renews its collaboration with Jean Nouvel, an internationally renowned architect. After two successful years, this third edition remains aligned with the initial objective: to combine architectural lines, noble materials together with 140 years of eyewear expertise. This capsule collection has proven itself. The result is clear: a clean, straight, and state-of-the-art style. This marriage between architecture and eyewear is made for creating bridges and highlighting the specificities of each. These two professions have a lot of common ground, as shown by these two highly structured frames, thanks to an aluminum rim inserted perfectly into the stainless-steel

structure. Nothing is left to chance: the color/material contrast makes this frame a premium product. Here is a combined inox-aluminum model with a radical design, thanks to a perfect lug between the front and the temples. The pure lines are faithful to the style of the architect. They allow this frame to be unmistakably present without compromising its lightness.

This year brings an explosion of color: from pastels to those that pop, color is everywhere! The eyewear sector is no exception. The designers at Morel have created a vibrant and lively selection of frames from the Nomad collection. These sparkling models cleverly mix playful and sophisticated shapes. The bold colors become discreet when a particular detail illuminates the temples or fronts. Matching this campaign’s visuals, these bright glasses are designed for radiant wearers.

Morel 40219N is a trendy, chic model that features comfortable temples and an effective balance between bold and transparent colors. Made entirely in acetate, this frame is illuminated at the top by a solid blue arch.

Morel par Jean Nouvel

Nomad mod 40219N

Innovation and design by T-CHARGE for Men

T-CHARGE announced its sunglass and ophthalmic collections for Spring/Summer 2023, designed for the discerning male with a taste for high-quality, creativity, originality, and elegant Italian design. The line is characterised by a bold creative vision, fusing fashion trends and classical aesthetics in frames which explore innovative details and an intriguing eclectic style.

Noble materials, such as real wood, are a unique focus of the T-CHARGE Line. For Spring/Summer 2023, the frames are created in stunning combinations of metal and natural wood, including Beech, Maple and Ebony, each variant providing unique colourations and tonal variation. The natural wood is cut and polished and surfaces are treated with ecological paints for the ultimate finish, that is refined and luxurious – as well as enhancing for the comfort and final fit.

In the sunglasses range, T-CHARGE explores the most beneficial, UV protective lens technology, applying polarised sun lenses which are functional as well as offering outstanding visual clarity. Made from Tri Acetate Cellulose (TAC), these state-of-theart sun lenses offer UV400 Protection with shatter-, impact-, and scratch-resistant coatings – as well as an elegant palette of special colours.

GO Eyewear started its international expansion at the end of 2009 and today has a worldwide presence. The European, North American, Russian and Asian locations give GO Eyewear Group the support of more than 70 carefully selected managers and distributors. The group’s global network now covers more than 60 countries and with its own brands offers the advantage of following the entire supply chain: from production to sales, including design, product development, manufacturing, logistics and distribution and communication.

The T6295 prescription model is part of the acetate model line with carbon fibre temples. The use of carbon fibre provides a unique aesthetic as well as increased durability and wear. Available in black, shaded blue, tortoiseshell and shaded brown.

mod T3114

Created in an attractive combination of metal and wood, the T3114 sunglasses represent one of the pilot shapes of the Spring/ Summer collection with a pear shape and bold double bar design. The elegant wood features on the temples of the frame. The colourways offered include Black, Gold or Gun.

mod CD DIAMOND A1U

The DIOR Man

Four avant-garde collections

Among the Dior sunglasses for men is the LUCKYDIOR line, where Californian pop culture meets traditional Parisian Haute Couture elegance. Kim Jones’ vibrant collection is designed in collaboration with up-andcoming American designer Eli Russel of the ERL brand.

Previewed at Kim Jones’ Summer 2023 prêtà-porter show in Paris at the Val-de-Grâce gardens, the sporty, futuristic, functional and refined RUNINDIOR aluminium line was designed for outdoor activities.

This season also saw the arrival of new metal frames in the prestigious CD DIAMOND line, now a classic in the collection.

The iconic and ever-elegant pilot shape is revived in the new CD DIAMOND A1U model with a silver-coloured frame. The temples feature shiny black acetate temple tips, an engraved “CD Diamond” motif and a metal

wire stripe, all accompanied by a gold-finish bridge. Another big news this season is the launch of DIOR90°, the first fully foldable line, and the DIORSNOW sports models for winter. As for prescription glasses, we see the entry of the CD Diamond models and their natural elegance in the Dior eyewear collection. Drawing inspiration from the Maison’s archives, these glasses reproduce the iconic “CD Diamond” motif, reinterpreted by Kim Jones for her catwalk collections. The models are available with metal and acetate frames embellished with a “CD Diamond” detail, while the temples are decorated with a metal stripe and engraved with the “CD Diamond” motif. All models are presented in exclusive packaging dedicated to the line. The timeless Panto model is reproposed in the CD DIAMOND R1I, a shiny acetate frame.

mod CD DIAMOND R1I

For three years now, the Black-Forest spectacles brand Lunor has been producing frames in its own manufacture – with full dedication and highly precise, traditional craftsmanship. The popular Classic and M5 collections that originated from the Lunor Manufaktur Gesellschaft, LUMAG for short, are followed by another novelty now: The timeless stainless-steel line M6 shows its completely regional origin clearly with the seal “Made in Germany” promising a very special wearing sensation by its finest spectacles craftsmanship. In a classic look, a high-quality metal frame joins ergonomic nose pads made of titanium and smooth temples made of acetate – for a well-designed and comfortable combination that survives short-lived trends.

Made for eternity

Lunor had started in 1991 with the vision to return to real craftsmanship as a pioneer in the spectacles industry, and to create unique spectacles. The spectacles manufacture immediately established itself as one of the most successful brands. The successful family company meanwhile is looking back on more than its 30th anniversary – and has created a high-quality production location relying on regionality and sustainability, also with its own manufacture.

The success of the Classic and M5 shows that a regional and fair production is no utopian dream. Therefore, it was only consistent for Michael Fux, CEO of Lunor AG, that also more models should be produced at LUMAG: “Our heart and identity are in the Black Forest. From the beginning, we have pursued the idea to build the brand on traditional spectacles craftsmanship and timeless design. With our local manufacture, we

For the love of craftsmanship

The new M6 line from the LUMAG manufacture

can produce sustainably and resource-efficiently. Therefore, we are very proud that we have been manufacturing our Classic and M5 collections at LUMAG for about three years now. With the M6 line, we are pursuing our values of manufacturing spectacles frames ‘Made in Germany’.”

The novelty M6 shows a timeless design combining traditional spectacles craftsmanship with a lot of love for detail. Thanks to a narrow part inside the acetate coating, which secures the temple to the temple rod, the new line guarantees maximum stability. The M6 02, 04 and 05 models convince by the antique gold/havana and antique silver/ black colors.

All frames at the LUMAG are soldered by hand, polished, and ground by machine. Each part of the M6 passes at least eight hands from order to delivery – that way, even the slightest unevenness or manufacturing defect can be discovered to keep the highest standard of the brand.

New destinations for men

by Fendi

The Thélios brand offers natural tones and innovative designs

For the Spring-Summer 2023 menswear collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of the FENDI accessories and menswear lines, takes us on a journey around the world to discover near and far destinations. The eyewear selection echoes the aesthetics of the collection to explore elegant summer models in natural tones and innovative designs. The collection also features new models within the Fendigraphy and O’Lock lines and the innovative FF Match model. The optical eyewear collection features eccentric new models that play with the Maison’s legendary logos while underlining the bold and sophisticated vision of the FENDI men’s universe.

FF MATCH - New this season is the first metal mask to join the FENDI eyewear family. This avant-garde model, in line with the Maison’s legacy, reveals the unmistakable “FF” logo separating the two lenses. This bold shape is available in various metal frames with matching, smoked or mirrored lenses.

FENDIGRAPHY mod FE50062I - Inspired by the classic rectangular shape, this bold and elegant acetate model features sharp angles and a flashy FENDI logo crossed by a matt metal line on the temples. A true style statement for a flat top optical model with a bold acetate frame. It comes in glossy black and matt metallic black or glossy dark Havana and glossy black metallic gold.

FF MATCH mod FE40080U

FENDIGRAPHY mod FE50062I

Tom Ford Eyewear is the ultimate in highfunction chic. The iconic designer offers a range of sunglasses featuring photochromatic lenses that self-adjust for degree of darkness, depending upon the light conditions. The lineup, with styles for both men and women, reinterprets vintage concepts with contemporary allure. The frames feature sleek lines and distinctive details, such as the signature “T” logo, while the lenses come in a variety of colors.

Functionality meets Fashion

With his creativity and exacting eye, Mr. Ford brings an elevated sensibility to his eyewear, realized in innovative materials that utilize the latest technology. This unique combination ensures superior performance along with high style and the signature provocative Tom Ford attitude.

We remind that this eyewear collection is designed, manufactured, and distributed worldwide by Marcolin.

The shapes of the Jacques Durand brand

The predilection for pure forms and the search for design quality define the collection named after the French creator Jacques Durand in which product quality and comfort are central. The collection evolves in continuity: iconic shapes and geometries are redesigned and interpreted, experimenting with technical and aesthetic possibilities and exploring the potential of the creative process.

Each pair of glasses is made in the Jacques Durand workshops in Montecchio Maggiore, Vicenza, where the synergy between the goldsmith’s art of Vicenza tradition and the technical and production skills inherited from experience in the world of eyewear is expressed.

The atmospheres of Studio 54

The sparkling, excessive and inclusive atmospheres of Studio 54 come alive in the new Bayria Eyewear collection. A fluid collection designed for women and men who play with the look to assert their individuality, sometimes swapping roles.

Octagonal frames with three-dimensional effects on the front; bold rectangular models, created by superimposing two different acetate sheets, gluing different colours of acetate together in contrasting colours.

There are also two new glasses combining an acetate front and a metal lower profile. The models are inspired by the CBS anchormen of the 1970s/80s who glued viewers to the TV.

Johnny Depp’s glasses

2022 was a big year for AM Eyewear - when Johnny Depp wore one of AM Eyewear’s Limited Edition frames at last year’s trial that were released over 8 years ago, the brand quickly started to feel the pressure to rerelease the frame Ava in Mellow Yellow, as it was one of only 75 Limited Edition frames produced at the time. These sunglasses also started to appear on EBay for up to AUD $2000 a pair.

Sticking to their ethos of Limited Edition, AM Eyewear made the decision to not reproduce the frame, despite the commercial opportunities; but due to popular demand, AM Eyewear is bringing out the colour way that made the frame famous in the Tommy style, with only 50 units available for customers worldwide.

Giants with a passion for detail

The massive and solid new acetate frames models Hahns, Hares and Holly by Götti Switzerland are bold and impressive, yet delicate with filigree elements that fascinate. Inspired by the Ö-dots, the transparent temples hide a refined gold structure, making the glasses a beautiful collector‘s item.

Other highlights include gold hinges and rivets. These are visually pleasing thanks to the translucent acetate plate.

It‘s no myth that these glasses are hand polished with passion. That‘s why a golden inscription with the name of the polisher adorns the temple.

Bold lines and a play on volume for Les Hommes

Key Optical Europe’s new Les Hommes collection features bold shapes and plays on metal volumes that reflect the brand’s soul and embody its philosophy of contemporary elegance. All the new prescription frames are fitted with blue block lenses and have a small metal eyelet on the temple tip, a sign of style dedicated to the modern man.

Contemporary design and squared shape for the LH3C01 acetate prescription model offered in black with grey to yellow gradient clip-on, transparent grey with tone-on-tone gradient lens and tortoiseshell with brown lens.

MODO: quality, design, social responsibility

Headquartered in New York since 1990, international by vocation - with offices in Milan, Stockholm and New York -, distribution covering over 50 countries worldwide. This is MODO, an international group that designs and produces absolutely trendy “minimal” eyewear and has also been involved for some time in social projects that put visual wellbeing and care for the eyes of the very young at the centre of attention.

Among the recently presented novelties is model 4116 a men’s eyeglass made of beta titanium and TR90 in the energetic Electric Blue shade.

Blackfin Pacific The Classics, reinvented

In the new Blackfin Pacific line, the name Pacific evokes the image of an ocean uniting two worlds, two cultures and two ways to interpret 1940s eyewear design. This style originated in Japan and then developed in a more sophisticated way in California, becoming iconic all over the world. Blackfin reinterprets these classics from a more modern and contemporary perspective.

Blackfin Pacific is made from a single 3-mm block of titanium to ensure maximum strength and durability. There are no welds, except those needed to mount the nose pad arms.

Tonino Lamborghini

Eyewear

Tonino Lamborghini presented the models of the new Heritage and Bold lines at the last MIDO. The famous ‘Charging Bull’, recognised worldwide as a symbol of strength, power and character, stands out on all eyewear models. All the lenses of the sunglasses are Zeiss. The Bold line is also enriched this year with prescription glasses, among which model TL014 is strongly representative of the brand. In thick acetate, it has a square-shaped front, while the wide temples have the detail of the shield and the Tonino Lamborghini brand signature. The temple tips are branded on the inside with the red shield.

Blackfin Pacific Sierra

Casual but always chic

MOREL’s expertise is evident at every step of the design process, allowing its sunglasses collection to be perfectly executed.

As an eyewear designer, MOREL surrounds itself with the best partners, such as DIVEL Italia, to supply high-quality sun lenses (polarized, anti-reflective interior, and category 3).

Discover a retro look and daring palette for men in this 100% acetate frame mod. 80019A. For added comfort, the temples are equipped with a flex hinge without screws or soldering, and the hook offers a colorful touch reminiscent of the front. Subtly incorporated into the structure, the color provides a “wow” effect without feeling excessive.

Accent Shades: to amaze, to leave a mark

Inspired by the Barcelona neighbourhoods of Sarrià and Pedralbes, Silhouette presents sunglass models with oversized lenses, surrounded at the top by metal profiles and free at the bottom. Comfortable and light, balanced in design, they present a minimalist mix of maxi details, vintage style and modern materials, with sophisticated and elegant colours. The Pedralbes model for men offers bright, high-contrast colour combinations in shades of blue and green. The innovative Light Management Technology® also offers optimal UV protection.

Westgroupe presents the EVATIK 2023 collection

Designed for the modern man, EVATIK’s 2023 collection focuses on easy-to-wear style, enhanced by high-quality materials and details and trendy colours. A range of finishes, retroinspired details and sophisticated decorative accents contribute to the collection’s elegance. Different shapes are presented to ensure broad appeal, allowing the wearer’s personal style to stand out with a look that is also perfect for the outdoors, an ideal complement to the versatile style of the entire collection.

Aviator Attitude

Originating from military wear in the 1930s, the aviator and its shorter more rectangular cousin the navigator evolved into iconic fashion pieces on the nose of Twentieth century pop culture legends. Aviator and navigator shapes have long been part of the design language at MYKITA and the options just increased with several newcomers joining across the collections: Pure and reduced models in lightweight stainless steel for NO1 and LITE or with a retro mood in dark, warm acetate shades for Mykita Acetate, as well as mixed materials models combining stainless steel with acetate and Mylon in refined colour compositions.

Characterised by a distinctive and elegant design, the new WEB EYEWEAR collection expresses the brand’s aesthetic and technical renewal through a pair of prescription glasses that can also be worn on a sunny day thanks to a convenient and easy clip-on system. The simple mechanism of dark lenses, easily clipped on to the frame, transforms the prescription eyewear into sunglasses that combine functionality and beauty. The unisex acetate WE5404 frame is a classic model with a pantos shape that plays elegantly with colours and transparencies. The contrast between the structure of the front piece and the temples, within which the brand’s unmistakable torchon is inserted as a core, is innovative.

VANNI: “Made in Italy, for sure”

A benefit company since 2021, a manufacturer of eyewear made entirely in Italy, VANNI presented at the last MIDO its new collections with their distinctive and exclusive style. The men’s proposals include the mod. V4117 in which the combination of metal and acetate creates a three-dimensional effect on multiple levels that gives the eyewear character and personality. A combination studied in weights and thicknesses that gives depth to the eyewear.

Andrea Fantini for Contemporary Heroes

Vision Group has launched a social project in 2021 involving ‘contemporary heroes’ who narrate the Contemporary Heroes brand identity through four superpowers: Style, Lightness, Elegance and Freedom. Ocean navigator Andrea Fantini is the new contemporary hero who, with his lifestyle and passion, well represents the superpower “Freedom”, symbol of the Clip-On models.

VW – Veronica Wildgruber: young and creative

For the first time aluminium has featured in the VW collection with styles Deckard and Tyrell where a bar of raw aluminium slots onto its geometrical counterpart.

Two materials with opposing tactilities combine into a unique shape.

The intersection of minimal geometries creates a sci-fi aesthetic which has landed in the present from a silver future.

Very bold, absolutely daring—a brutalist piece of eyewear.

info@clariscience.com

Paul works as a franchisee in one of the shops of a large European eyewear franchisor in downtown Amsterdam; he gets to work every day by bike, flanking the mysterious and iconic network of channels that makes the Netherlands capital so famous; today, while he rides in the early morning, his mind is wandering to Venice, and to the holiday he and his wife had there the past summer. In Venice, at the same moment, Alvise is walking to his own, small eyewear shop in a calle close to Rialto. No cars around him, he hears the water gently hitting the banks of the riva, following the smooth movement of one of the first gondolas leaving the wharf in the morning mist.

They are about 1.3 thousand kilometers away, and they are as different as night and day. Paul is about 30 years old, Alvise is in his late sixties. Alvise loves old-styled eyeglasses, Paul sells very fashionable spectacles. Paul loves titanium; Alvise – instead – old, good, solid acetate.

Yet, over their working day, they will share more than one might expect. As they are both going to have eyewear make their last step to the final user, they share the same regulatory fate: from a regulatory standpoint, Paul and Alvise are indisputably medical devices distributors. Thus, their professional life is regulated by recent pieces of law they both have to abide,

SAFEGUARDING CUSTOMERS’ SAFETY. WHAT THE MEDICAL DEVICE REGULATION REQUIRES FROM EYEWEAR DISTRIBUTORS.

Clariscience, as an independent and highly specialized consultancy agency, offers a panel of integrated services designed to help its customers from the medical device and IVD sector, in achieving and maintaining regulatory and quality compliance and succeeding on the market through a clear and inspiring scientific communication.

the EU 2017/745 Regulation on Medical Devices, concerning frames and contact lenses, and 2016 /426 on Personal Protection Equipment, when dealing with sunglasses. Both Alvise, in his small historical Rialto’s shop, and Paul, in his shiny, glamorous high-class store in downtown Amsterdam, know that one obligation of theirs is to guarantee traceability. Thus, they have put in place a sound way of recording the lots of the frames and the other devices they have purchased for reselling, and whom they have sold them to. No matter the system (Paul uses a centralized, computerized system provided by its franchisor company; Alvise has some old-styled, paper registers he painstakingly fills in by hand) they are always able to identify who has been given a definite device lot. Both have also put in place a bullet-proof process to check that frames and lenses, and the other devices they get

from their suppliers are CE marked, and their declarations of conformity have been drawn up. They do it by sampling – but they have shown their sampling method is appropriate. They know that frames and lenses, as well as sunglasses and the other devices, must be stored as the manufacturers want them stored, and they have taken appropriate measures to ensure they can do that. They are aware also that, should they consider or have reason to believe that the device they distribute are

not in conformity with the requirements of the EU Regulation, they will not make them available on the market, and will inform the manufacturer and, where applicable, the manufacturer’s authorized representative, and the importer, if applicable, about the ongoing issue.

Both Paul and Alvise know how to manage complaints appropriately. When Paul listens to the self-conceited speech of Mr. van der Vegte, the famous lawyer, speaking about the problems he has while driving by night because of the anti-reflecting coating on the lenses of his new glasses, he knows this piece of information has to be recorded, and has an appropriate procedure in place to do so; he also knows that this has to be reported to the lens manufacturer, but not to the competent authority. The same awareness has Alvise, when he listens to the cluttered yet rapid dialect of Signor Anselmo, the watchmaker, complaining about a mild skin irritation behind is ears after few days wearing is brand-new Havana acetate spectacles. He has a procedure in place to assess complaints, record them, and report them when necessary. Paul and Alvise both know in fact that, should

something quite bad occur – should they consider or have reason to believe that frames or lenses they got present a serious health risk or are falsified – they will have to inform the competent authority of the Netherlands and Italy, respectively – as well as to the other stakeholders listed by the EU Regulations. They also know that other Medical Device Regulation requirements apply. As they produce and provide their customers with finished eyeglasses for vision correction, in fact, they are also manufacturers of custommade devices.

Both Paul’s franchisor, Paul himself and Alvise are law-abiding EU business operators. But, more than that, they strive to preserve the safety of their customers. When the EU Regulations were enforced, they realized they had to be ready. Paul’s franchisor company provided him with all the systems needed to guarantee appropriate storage, traceability, complaint management and reporting – and had all the set of procedures checked by a renowned consultancy firm; Alvise hired the same firm, which dispatched a quality specialist to his premises who helped him to draw up a set of procedures designed to be both compliant to the Regulation requirements and tailored to his small business needs. Both double-checked, with their consultant, if

they meet their obligations as custom-made medical device manufacturers. Indeed, many provisions of the Regulations can be addressed without resorting to consultancy, but both Paul’s company and Alvise himself decided that this was a wise investment, after considering timing, thoroughness and consistency as key endpoints.

Many eyewear stakeholders have chosen to pursue compliance through Clariscience, a consultancy firm that has been providing regulatory and quality consultancy to most of Italian biggest eyewear manufacturers and distributors since 2013, and is continuously helping to shape how this industry, as a whole, addresses the regulatory challenges to succeed on the eyewear market.

ITALIAN EYEWEAR SHINES WITH EXPORTS, BUT HAS TO DEAL WITH INCREASINGLY AGGRESSIVE COSTS

Preliminary figures 2022: production +24%, exports +22.5%.

First half 2023: export forecast +6-8%.

The 2022 global context

At the gates of 2022, the world was expecting a simpler, post-pandemic period, but reality made us realise that we were facing something quite different. 2022 was a year that will be remembered in economics and history books for the Russian invasion of Ukraine, which disrupted an economic system that had yet to stabilise from the pandemic. We entered a world of even more rapid change, with unprecedented political and media polarisation, severe supply chain problems, spikes in inflation, debt and geopolitical conflicts. Some analysts have gone so far as to call this situation ‘the new era of chaos’.

During 2022, the conflict in Ukraine, the soaring cost of living and this new atmosphere of extreme general concern were the leitmotif of the entire global economic scenario. In its latest October

Outlook, the IMF reported a sharp slowdown for the US economy compared to expectations at the beginning of the year, as well as for the German economy. The worst energy crisis ever, inflation at its highest level since the 1980s and rising interest rates have actually shifted all economic growth forecasts for all countries downwards.

The Italian economy in 2022

Despite this general climate, it must be said that the Italian economy, after an initial moment when it seemed that it would suffer a recession in the second half of the year, over the months the Italian manufacturing system has withstood the blow, continuing to grow at a good pace. So much so as to record the best industrial production among the major European economies since the beginning of the year.

Overall world trade grew, however, supported by

Market data presented by ANFAO (Italian Association of Optical Goods Manufacturers) on February 1 at the press conference in Milan prior to MIDO 2023

the US and the Eurozone. In particular, Italian exports grew more than those of other European countries due to some specific factors: the weakness of the Euro, the good geographical positioning less exposed to China and countries involved in the Ukrainian conflict, and the robust American demand for Italian products.

Italian eyewear in 2022

Italian eyewear has not escaped this dynamic: thanks to its strong international vocation, it has performed brilliantly on international markets, but inflationary tensions and uncertainty have weighed on the domestic market and on margins.

On the basis of the latest available data (October 2021), a 2022 forecast was drawn up that sees Italian eyewear production in 2022 at EUR 5.17 billion, up 24% on 2021

The total balance of manufacturers dropped by about 2 percentage points to 830 companies nationwide.

On the employment front, the end of the year seems to be positive for the time being: the sector basically closes with 18,250 employees, a situation that is substantially stable compared to 2021.

Preliminary export figures 2022

Exports of frames, sunglasses and lenses, which absorb about 90% of the sector’s production, grew by 22.5% in 2021 to about EUR 5 billion (4.94 billion).

Sunglasses exports in 2022 showed a trend change of 28.9 % to almost EUR 3.4 billion. The year 2022 marked the complete recovery of sunglasses exports, which had suffered so much during the pandemic period.

Exports of frames, on the other hand, grew by 9.9% to EUR 1.4 billion.

In spite of difficulties in sourcing raw materials, delivery times and backshoring phenomena, a good recovery was also marked by imports, which closed 2022 with a preliminary figure of around 1.7 billion euro, +22.3% compared to 2021 values.

The trade balance of Italian eyewear increased its

surplus (approximately 3.3 billion euro export-import balance in 2022).

Preliminary export figures 2022: geographical areas

Considering the two product macro-segments as a whole, sunglasses and frames, with regard to the geographical areas in detail, we can observe that:

- Reference area for eyewear exports remains Europe (in 2022, the export share remained constant, absorbing about 50% of all sector exports) with a trend growth of 20% over 2021 (+28.1% for sunglasses, +6% for frames).

-In America, Italian eyewear exports accounted for more than 36% of the industry’s entire exports in 2022. The increase in exports of sunglasses was 23.2% compared to 2021. Driving this growth was the excellent performance of exports of sunglasses +27.9% flanked by +11.3% of frames.

-Asia benefited from the renewed international mobility of some countries: the share of Italian exports to the Asian area reached 13.1% in 2022 (but was over 16% in 2019). The trend change in exports was +34.4% compared to 2021 (+24.6% for exports of frames, +38.1% for sunglasses).

-Africa remains an area that absorbs a share of the sector’s exports of less than 1.5%, but which could represent a good, as yet unexpressed potential. In 2022, total Italian eyewear exports to the area remained substantially stable compared to 2021 (+0.1%).

-In Oceania, which remains a marginal area with a share of close to 0.5 per cent, Italian exports of sunglasses and frames in 2022 grew by 22.4 per cent in value compared to 2021.

Preliminary export figures 2022: countries

From the point of view of the analysis by individual export countries, one can point out:

- In the United States (which has always been the leading market for the sector, with a share of more than 30% in 2022), total exports of frames and sunglasses were up 20.2% on 2021. Both sectors grew: exports in value of frames increased by 7.1 % and those of sunglasses by 24.8 % over 2021.

- In Europe, Italian exports in the various countries performed very well in relation to 2021. In France, the export forecast for the sunglasses sector in 2022 recorded +18.1% over 2021 (+5.5% for frames and +28% for sunglasses). In Germany as a whole, growth was 24.5% over 2021, broken down as +32.2% for sunglasses exports and +12% for frames. The preliminary result for exports to Spain was very good with +31.8% in value compared to 2021 (substantially stable for exports of frames at +1.5%, with exports of sunglasses recovering sharply with +48.6%). The result obtained by Italian eyewear exports to the United Kingdom was the least brilliant: overall exports were +4.8% in value compared to 2021, but sustained by +8.1% in sunglasses against a negative performance of exports of frames at -3.5%. Italian eyewear exports to Northern and Eastern European countries continued to perform well: Sweden (+20.6% compared to 2021), Poland (+24.1%), Croatia (+15.7%), Austria (+17.4%), Denmark (+14.3%) and Hungary (+31.3%).

- Eyewear exports to the BRIC’s, which together accounted for just over 6% of the sector’s exports in 20222 (in 2019 they were at over 8%). Clearly, due to the conflict, Italian exports to Russia were heavily penalised:

- Brazil +26.5% (+23.8% sunglasses and +30% frames) compared to 2021

- Russia -47.8% (-46.3% sunglasses and -42.7% frames)

- India +61.9% (+73.8% sun and +44% frames)

- China +46.7% (+54.3% sun and +30.3% frames).

Preliminary domestic market forecast 2022

As was the case in 2021, eyewear showed two speeds, one very sustained on international markets, one with the brakes on the domestic market. Consumption, monitored by GfK in the specialised optical channel, performed well in 2021 (+6% the figure for January-October, the latest available); however, these are values that take us to a projection in value for 2022 of slightly more than 2019, very close, in short, to those 3 billion euros that have been the value of the Italian mkt for many years. An in-depth look at the data finally shows a recovery in sunglasses, but this is offset by the lacklustre performance of the prescription sector, which had recovered very well in 2021, returning to previous values. The figure for ophthalmic lenses is confirmed, which now accounts for 50% of sales in shops.

The sell-in figure also confirms these trends.

2023 Forecasts

Despite a less negative 2022 than expected, the overall forecast for 2023 is not good. In the coming months, the forecast scenario predicts a gradual slowdown in advanced countries’ foreign trade and growth due to a number of decisive factors: high energy costs, the depreciation of the euro, which is below parity against the dollar, record inflation in Italy and the Eurozone that does not seem to be receding, sharply rising interest rates, and a widening of sovereign spreads in the Eurozone.

For the Italian eyewear industry, the issue no longer seems to be the speed of its exports, which will probably decline, but taking advantage of the weakness of the euro in its main outlet market, the United States, it will still be able to grow in value

(+6-8% the forecast for the first half of 2023).

The real and central issue for eyewear, as for most Italian manufacturing, is that of rising costs.

The costs of energy, raw materials, transport, services, logistics and packaging have reached such a level that companies can no longer absorb them internally. It is estimated that they have more than doubled on average compared to the pre-pandemic period. As a result, companies are working with ever-diminishing margins that put the survival of the companies themselves, especially small and medium-sized enterprises, at risk.

“We have experienced a 2022 that has shown several faces: double-digit exports, a stagnant domestic market, costs that do not seem to have a ceiling. - said ANFAO President Giovanni Vitaloni.

- Many companies, especially the small ones, are

really struggling despite the fact that orders and contracts are not lacking right now. The effort for our companies has been to absorb the increase in costs as much as possible precisely in order to avoid a direct knock-on effect on the last link in the chain, the end consumer. However,’ Vitaloni continued, ‘it must be said that we are now working with very low margins, in some cases zero. This is a situation that we hope can somehow be restored in the short term, otherwise in the long run it would mean jeopardising the companies’ own investments in communication, training, research, development and innovation. And this,’ concluded the President of ANFAO and MIDO, ‘would really be a pity at a time when the sector seems to have returned to structural growth, as also witnessed by the great participation of companies at MIDO 2023”.

Zyloware, the longest running family-owned and operated optical frame supplier in the USA, turned 100 years old on January 26, 2023. The Zyloware family, with Christopher and James Shyer - owners and co-CEOs of Zylowarewill celebrate this milestone throughout the whole of 2023 with a series of events.

During the 70s and 80s Zyloware became the first licensee for eyewear of an American fashion designer (Gloria Vanderbilt), the first licensee of a celebrity collection (Sophia Loren) and the first licensee of a men’s eyewear brand (Stetson). All three of which continue to be among America’s top selling eyewear brands today.

POLICE turned 40. The first brand owned by the De Rigo Group was born in 1983 with the launch of the eyewear collection. 1997 saw the debut of the Police fragrances, the first of many collaborations t, including watches since 2003, jewellery since 2005, small leather goods in 2011, and finally clothing.

Police, since its origins a witness to a male universe in constant change, celebrates its 40th anniversary with a new logo for a Limited Edition of 4 specially made items: a pair of sunglasses, two watches combined with a bracelet or a wallet, and a perfume. Only 1983 pieces for each model, in honour of the brand’s year of birth.

Thélios Conventions create a strong customer bond

Thélios was born from the commitment of LVMH, the world leader in luxury, to give a new interpretation to the eyewear category, with the aim of developing collections for its Maisons. At the Longarone factory, typically Italian craftsmanship and fine workmanship come together to create unique collections of excellent quality.

Thélios’ distribution network is distinguished by being highly selective, in accordance with the positioning of the Maisons of the LVMH Group. Con-

sequently, the connection between Thélios and its customers is very strong, with full sharing of objectives between industry and retail.

Since its inception, Thélios’ strategy has been to create autonomous and exclusive events, the Conventions, to offer its selected clients the opportunity for moments of meeting and discussion, in a setting that best represents the soul of each brand.

The aim is to offer an immersive experience in the Maisons; for this reason, it is necessary to provide large, autonomous and highly flexible spaces.

After the last convention in Paris at the Hotel Potocki in September 2022, where Thélios presented its spring collections by creating boutiques inside a historic building, the company chose a highly iconic space in the centre of Milan for the event that took place from 2 to 9 February, where it presented its Summer 23 collections.

The Milan Convention took place in the evocative setting of Le Cavallerizze at the Museum of Science and Technology: 1,600 square metres

that were used to welcome visitors from over 30 countries.

The new collections of sunglasses and optical frames of the prestigious Thélios brands, such as Dior, Fendi, Celine, Givenchy, Loewe, Stella McCartney, Kenzo and Fred, were presented in customised settings, where each reflected the “soul” of the brand, emphasising its peculiar characteristics, both technical and stylistic, and its target audience.

Let us recall that Thélios follows the entire supply chain: from creation to development, from production to distribution, the various collections and its designers work closely with the Maison creatives in a true partnership capable of interpreting eyewear to fully integrate it into the development of the brand.

The Summer 23 collections were then also presented from 16 to 19 March in New York at Spring Studios. Here, Thélios, together with Vogue Business, opened the event with a meeting in which leading speakers talked about the importance of displaying luxury frames in the best way, how to optimise visual merchandising and why a more creative presentation can inspire buyers to think differently about how to express themselves.

MIDO 2023: THE INTERNATIONAL EYEWEAR SHOW OPENS A NEW CHAPTER

President Vitaloni: “We have a responsibility to be among Italy’s most international events and, without a doubt, the industry leader at a global level. This means organizing a show that meets the needs of professionals who, every year, arrive from around the world to conduct business at MIDO”

The 51st edition of MIDO, which closed its doors on 6 February 2023, marked the start of a new era in eyewear, with numbers confirming the exhibition’s leadership.

Attendance peaked at 35,000 industry professionals: 80% of them from Europe and 20% from the rest of the world. That is a 60% increase over 2022 visitor numbers. Also on the rise, Italian visitors made up 53% of the total. Of the more than 1,000 exhibitors representing the entire supply chain - from machinery to lenses, along with frame manufacturers, and from the industry’s top name brands to young independent designers - 72% were international and 28% from Italy. Among the overseas exhibitors, 51% were from Europe, 42% from Asia and 7% from the rest of the world.

The data, both for visitors and participation by industry professionals, once again confirm the unmistakable global reach of the show. “We have an exciting responsibility that comes with being the gold standard global eyewear event and that is, to bring together supply and demand for professionals who participate in MIDO,” stated MIDO President Giovanni Vitaloni. “This year we attracted many first-time presences among exhibitors and visitors who expressed their positive surprise at walking through the doors of our show. The ‘wonder’, that is part of the show’s DNA, is precisely this – to delight those who participate to such an extent that they cannot help but be here every year,” he concluded.

The keywords of MIDO 2023 were internationalisation, opticians at the centre and sustainability.

For visitors, there were myriad innovations and events, with a special focus on opticians – from the “How to?” cycle of OTTICLUB meetings – to the presentation of specialized books in the “Book@MIDO” program.

Saturday 4 February saw the presentation of the ANFAO project Empowering Optical Women Leadership, supporting women in the eyewear industry on their path to leadership. The meeting was moderated by journalist Barbara Serra, sponsored by the Bellisario Foundation and realised in collaboration with SDA Bocconi. The programme was created with the aim of building an Observatory on the gender equity of leadership in the industry to “take a snapshot” of the current situation, identify the difficulties (including “childcare” and “elderly care”), outline the guidelines for a pilot project of female empowerment training and promote an inclusive corporate culture.

On Sunday 5, in a crowded Fashion District square, there was the presentation of the awards that MIDO every year assigns to optical centres, to the most sustainable stand and, from this year, also to the most virtuous companies in the field of sustainability, the CSE AWARD - Certified Sustainable Eyewear. The award is conceived by MIDO in cooperation with ANFAO and Certottica and assesses sustainability in the eyewear sector at an international level. An authoritative jury of experts assessed the products that were nominated, using detailed criteria on their environmental and social impact, considering the product’s entire life cycle: recycling of materials, reduction of consumption in production and distribution processes, valorisation of the supply chain, elimination of waste, degree of recyclability, use of renewable energy, etc.

These are the award winners for the 6 categories:

• CSE Award Sunglasses Europe: NEUBAU EYEWEAR – NEUBAU (Austria)

• CSE Award Sunglasses Rest of the World: MITA EYEWEAR - Vision of Tomorrow (USA)

• CSE Award Frames Europe: EYEWEAR 4 YOULLEXAN ITALIA (Italy)

• CSE Award Frames Rest of the World: MONOGRAM EYEWEAR (UAE)

• CSE Award Cases Europe: ECO - MODO EYEWEAR (Italy)

• CSE Award Cases Rest of the World: KARUN EYEWEAR – KARUN (Chile)

The award ceremony led by President Giovanni Vitaloni and Chiara Tronville, fashion and lifestyle journalist, saw OTTICA BUX (Altamura) by Sabino Bux win the Bestore Design 2023 prize, for the incredible mix of elements and settings, for the perfect synchrony between elegance and luxury, art and craftsmanship, and for the details that link the world of eyewear to that of music. The Bestore Innovation 2023 prize was awarded to MEGAOPTIKA (Lviv - Ukraine), by Taras Proniv, which stood out for its enterprising entrepreneurship and which combines the treatment of ophthalmic diseases, advanced diagnostics and a wide range of products, operating under extremely risky conditions due to the ongoing conflict.

Finally, the Stand Up For Green award for the most sustainable stand went to MARCHON ITALIA whose new stand was designed and manufactured using sustainable materials and processes. The structure was created to align with Marchon’s commitment to its

sustainability and corporate responsibility action plan, EYES ON TOMORROW™ - a longterm global programme to ensure their eyewear and processes have a reduced impact on the planet and is committed to being the best possible partner for stakeholders, employees and communities. Key sustainability features of the stand include the storage of reusable parts, modularity of the structure and recyclability of materials.

MIDO 2023 also featured glamorous occasions, with the presence of VIPs and celebrities from the world of entertainment such as trapper Sfera Ebbasta, singer Dargen D’Amico, model and influencer Dasha Kina, showgirl Melissa Satta and entertainment with flash mobs, performances and award ceremonies in the famous MIDO squares.

The eyewear show has become a not-tobe-missed appointment for the Italian and international press as well – with more than 380 accredited journalists in attendance, more than 100 articles published in just the 3 days of the show, and about 500 in the

preceding weeks. A sizable number of TV crews also captured ‘fair life’ as they moved among the stands for the duration of the show.

In addition to substantial live participation in the event, there was equally significant online activity – users from around the globe connected to the MIDO social profiles, enlivening them with more than 15,000 shares between posts and stories. Communication, in just the 3 days of the fair, exceeded 1.4 million impressions, growth also reflected in the 50,000 interactions on the pages, a more than 30% increase over last year.

The mido.com website was visited by more than 30,000 people (+50% over 2022) while the digital platform counted 12,000 members, 650 showcase pages and more than 40 events that will continue to be available until December 2023.

The combination of in-person participation and online posts means MIDO 2023 successfully and positively integrated the real and the virtual.

The next appointment with MIDO is set for February 3-5, 2024 at Fiera Milano Rho.

The show continues on the online platform and on the official social channels: Instagram (@mido_exhibition), Facebook (@MIDOExhibition), Twitter (@MIDOExhibition) and LinkedIn.

FAIRS & EVENTS

opti 2023: good success for the German trade fair in Munich

Three days of international networking in a stimulating atmosphere, an opening of the year with successful sales, new formats to represent trends and the promotion of innovation for optics and design: this was opti 2023 at the Munich Trade Fair Centre.

opti inspired as an industry highlight right at the start of the year and put the ophthalmic optics family in the mood for successful cooperation and order growth in 2023. With an increase in visitors of 19.2% compared to the previous year, opti is in an upbeat spirit together with the entire optics & design industry. This year, some 15,500 visitors from 67 countries

examined the offerings of 307 exhibitors from 28 countries.

Lectures followed by discussions in the SUSTAINABILITY HUB and the MYOPIA HUB offered interested visitors the opportunity to learn about trends, research methods and technologies as well as to discuss individual questions and challenges within a group. Exhibitor tours, organized by epitop GmbH and other exhibitors, addressed various key topics in ophthalmic optics, for example “Smart imaging in ophthalmic screening”. Thus, opti gave important impulses to the market. In particular, the opti TREND “Myopia Management” was seen by 78% of visitors as important for their everyday professional lives, and

regarding the MYOPIA HUB, more than threequarters of respondents gave opti top marks. The social media sessions were also popular, with Sarah Schleicher, German optician and eyewear blogger (19,000 Instagram followers) and French optician Anne-Sophie Lapetite (100,000 Instagram fans) from AnSoStyle answering questions.

Another highlight was the presentation of the second opti BOX AWARD. The winner is LARS Brillen - Swiss Made, a start-up that has scored with its 3D printed frames and pays attention to timelessness and sustainability. They were chosen by an international jury of experts, who honour emerging designers for their unique products with the award, evaluating the new criteria of “innovation”, “design”, “functionality” and “sustainability”. LARS Brillen is thus following in the footsteps of eyewear designer Beate Leinz, who won the first opti BOX AWARD. opti 2024 will take place in Munich from January 12 to 14, 2024.

Change of management at opti

On 24 March, the GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH announced that Cathleen Kabashi will take over as opti director with immediate effect and until further notice. Kabashi will thus be responsible for the future and development of the international trade fair for optics and design. The previous manager, Bettina Reiter, is moving to the GHM at the FAF fair. The opti fair team will be further expanded in the future. Kabashi plans to pass the baton to new leadership in the medium term.

Klaus Plaschka, Managing Director of GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH added:

“Bettina Reiter has achieved great things in her eight years with opti. She not only established it as a leading industry platform, but together with her team, she also maneuvered opti through the challenging pandemic period to its successful first event after the COVID restrictions in January 2023. We are happy to comply with her wish for change, because I am convinced that FAF – Farbe, Ausbau und Fassade, which takes place every three years, will benefit from Ms. Reiter’s concentrated expertise from now on. I would like to expressly thank Bettina Reiter for her consistently excellent achievements for the optics industry!”

BOLD, the rendezvous for the Dutch market

BOLD Optical Fair was created at the beginning of 2016 to offer Dutch independent opticians a special opportunity to meet the research and design offer in optics and eyewear.

Teressa and Walter, the creators of the exhibition, told us about the last edition. “We look back on the previous edition as a very successful event. There was a positive atmosphere, the scenery was beautiful and the participation of brands even more so. Especially Dutch opticians, but also Belgians and Germans, knew where to find us. The photos

speak for themselves, we - but especially the visitors - visibly enjoyed this optical trade fair.

After ten editions at the Landgoed de Salentein location in Nijkerk and one edition in March 2022 at the Taets in Zaandam, the organisers recently announced that the upcoming 12th edition, which will take place on 10 and 11 September 2023, will move to a larger and more central location, De Werkspoorkathedraal in Utrecht.

100% Optical 2023 had Record-Breaking Attendance

Since launching in 2014, 100% Optical, organized by Media 10 Ltd. in partnership with the Association of Optometrists (AOP), has quickly established itself as the largest and now only optical event in the UK, attracting UK and international visitors. The 9th edition of 100% Optical took place on 25 - 27 February at London’s ExCeL. With 250+ exhibitors, 100% Optical made a welcome return with a record-breaking 10,657 attendees flocking to the UK’s largest optical event - a 10% year-on-year increase on its previous record attendance.

Backed by all the industry’s leading organisations, 100% Optical had its strongest exhibitor lineup to date; an expanded focus on contact lenses; its annual Love Eyewear Awards ceremony; and more networking opportunities than ever beforealongside exclusive show offers, workshops and debates curated by show partners.

Dedicated to celebrating the sector, the Love Eyewear Awards launched in 2020 to champion and promote eyewear amongst independent and major designers, manufacturers, and retailers.

2023 Love Eyewear Awards Winners:

- New Designer - Ffin Eyewear

-Women’s Frame of the Year - OtrO Eyewear –Arena

- Men’s Frame of the Year - STRUKTUR EyewearThe Paris Light

- Women’s Sunglasses Frame of the Year - Woody’s Eyewear - NEON – G

- Men’s Sunglasses Frame of the Year - Ffin Eyewear – ANA

- Unisex Frame of the Year - Pepe Jeans London – Bangkok

- Sustainable Frame of the Year - VAVA - CL0012

- Kids Frame of the Year - ROLF – Kudu

- Most Engaging Practice Window - Bespoke

Eyewear

- Eyewear Retailer of the Year - The Focal Rooms by The BilBro & Co, Co.

- Eyewear Accessory of the Year - Ampere – Dusk

- Luxury Frame of the Year - Yohji YamamotoSL014-A008

Next year’s 10th anniversary 100% Optical dates

have been confirmed for 24th to 26th February 2024, while The Association of Optometrists (AOP) and Media 10 have announced that their partnership to deliver 100% Optical has been extended until 2025.

As part of its 10th anniversary show for 2024, show organisers have also announced a new dedicated 100% Ophthalmology section and education programme, working with key partners, suppliers, and the NHS to deliver more content for ophthalmologists attending the show.

Vision Expo East 2023 in NYC

Vision Expo East 2023, concluded on Sunday, March 19 in New York, was the largest gathering of ophthalmic professionals in the United States in recent years.

Vision Expo East featured 425 world-class exhibiting companies, encompassing some of the biggest names in eyewear and eyecare. Attendees explored the industry’s top brands in seven unique exhibit neighborhoods: The Park, The Union, The Focus, The Springs, Look East, The Atelier, and Panorama, the newest addition to Vision Expo. In addition to the exhibit hall, industry professionals attended VisionEd—Vision Expo’s continuing education program—which included over 300 hours of sessions ranging from the latest business strategies and fashion trends to patient education tactics and cutting-edge innovations. Additionally, OptiCon @ Vision Expo returned with an unmatched opticianry education program and exhibit hall experience.

The Career Zone-Student Lounge, a destination for students to connect with optical companies that are actively recruiting and explore career resources, also returned to Vision Expo East on Saturday, March 18.

The Bridge, Vision Expo East’s main stage destination, featured a diverse range of inspiring and educational events including a highly anticipated keynote presentation from Jason Romero, a legally blind ultra-runner, and an exclusive conversation with radio personality and author, Delilah.

The winner of Vision Expo’s Fifth Annual OPTImum Independent Retailer Award, Primary Eye Care, was announced during an award ceremony on Friday, March 17. Launched in 2018, the OPTImum Independent Retailer Award celebrates independent boutique retailers by showcasing their products, stores, visions, and stories to the optical industry.

NOW by Vision Expo, an eyewear trends showcase created by Nico Roseillier, Creative Director at Europa/State Optical/American Optical, returned for a second year and hosted its inaugural NOW Awards, honoring brands that embody the latest trends and innovations in eyewear.

Vision Expo West 2023 will be held in Las Vegas from September 27-30, 2023.

Generation SILMO!

Decade after decade, the SILMO continues to evolve, develop, and grow, thanks to generations of enthusiastic, hard-working professionals who rally the entire optical and eyewear industry, and thanks to the organising teams who endeavour to deal with market fluctuations, technological progress, social changes and ethical sensibilities, among much more.

With each new generation, humanity and the planet face major challenges and unprecedented issues. The industry strives to protect natural resources, ensure sustainable and responsible production modes that do not harm the environment, and meet the visual correction needs of millions of men and women.

These challenges can be met by bringing together the many talents involved in the optical and eyewear field, a cutting-edge sector that invests in the future and anticipates ground-breaking innovations.. SILMO PARIS is the place to be for

demonstrations and discussions with all the professionals participating in the constructive development of the future of the optical and eyewear industry.

The next edition of Silmo is aimed at professionals from all countries, of all ages and styles who work passionately every day to improve eyesight and the beauty of the eyes.

The Silmo Generation is aware that the future of the industry will be techno-responsible, a source of progress and common sense.

The Silmo Generation is aware that creativity, inspiration and vision are recognised and valued at Silmo Paris.

The next edition of SILMO will take place in Paris, from 29 September to 2 October 2023, to imagine, build and discover together the optics of tomorrow.

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