THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE ON OPTICS AND EYEWEAR 20223nr. INTERVIEWS WITH THOMAS BURKHARDT AND RAFFAELLA DA RIZ THE SPECIALISTEYEWEAR SPECIAL SILMO PARIS 2022 THE POINT OF VIEW OF THE OPTICIANINDEPENDENT
SEE TOMORROW TODAY The future of eyewear is here. OUR THEIRVISION.VISION.
Dal 23 al 26 settembre 2022 Stand : 6B 049
EDITORIAL 5 SILMO 2022 6 ON STAGE @ SILMO 8 INTERVIEW: THOMAS BURKHARDT 30 THE EYEWEAR SPECIALIST 36 REGULATORY, QUALITY AND COMMUNICATION 38 INTERVIEW: RAFFAELLA DA RIZ 44 SHOWCASE 46 POINT OF VIEW: THE INDEPENDENT OPTICIAN 50 LES JOURNÉES PARTICULIÈRES OF LVMH 52 FAREWELL LEONARDO DEL VECCHIO 55 NEWS 56 FAIRS & EVENTS 59 VEDERE International nr. 03 / 2022 Publishing Director: Isabella Morpurgo Fashion Trends MarketingNewIndustryProducts&Economy THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE ON OPTICS AND EYEWEAR 20223nr. INTERVIEWS WITH THOMAS BURKHARDT AND RAFFAELLA DA RIZ THE SPECIALISTEYEWEAR SPECIAL SILMO PARIS 2022 THE POINT OF VIEW OF THE OPTICIANINDEPENDENT
Isabella
KUBE-GREEN - It is an innovative open source application, created by the 100% Italian tech-company Mia-Platform, which enables a 30% reduction in the CO2 emissions of IT infrastructures by optimising their energy consumption. At a time when digitisation is bringing about major changes in society and organisations, there is a risk of forgetting the environmental impact of digital infrastructures, which today are responsible for 4% of CO2 emissions. A figure that, according to experts, is set to double by 2025 and reach 20% by 2050.
So, not to distract ourselves but just to get some ideas that can spur us on towards the future, and while waiting for everyone to meet again at Silmo in Paris, here is some news that I think deserves further investigation.
LET’S
Somnium Space Fashion Week - In association with TESLASUIT, the human-to-digital interface, Metaverse platform Somnium Space organised the first virtual reality avatar fashion week in history - held in Prague and in the virtual world this September. The event enables designers and brands to connect with consumers in an entirely new way, making it a one of a kind phygital experience. It expands the way fashion is presented to the public, allowing people to connect from around the globe in one physical and digital location simultaneously using the most advanced XR technologies on the market - Virtual Reality, Augmented Reality, Full Body Trackers and Holograms.
AROUNDLOOKFORABETTERFUTURE
In schoolbooks, our descendants will read about how “ the Earth in those years was hit by a severe pandemic, later shaken by a war in Europe even more severe than those already going on in the various continents, and finally strangled by the energy crisis”. They could, and certainly will, make one or more tragic or catastrophic films. We, however, are living through it and no longer believe that better days are ahead of us any time soon.
Morpurgo Publisher VEDERE International isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
• KNOT / Inclusive Eyewear from Diego Sparta (Politecnico di Milano - Bovisa Durando Campus - Design School): a frame designed for disabled people.
Jun Gobron, President of the Jury of the SILMO d’Or 2022
In this echo chamber of imagination, conception and design, don’t miss the Trends Forum with its selection of the best optical and sunglasses frames of all the exhibitors attending the trade fair.
These are the 7 selected projects:
SILMO2022
The Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (Best Workers in France) will also be highlighted on SILMO Next. This expression of eyewear crafting heritage will demonstrate that the present and future intermingle in creativity and tradition.
Here is an overview of the events scheduled at SILMO Paris 2022.
An undeniable international business hub and a remarkable platform for envisioning the future of the optical and eyewear industry, SILMO Paris is its most tangible reflection Far from just a marketing slogan, its message “Welcoming Visionaries”, is a rallying cry convening new ideas, concepts, technological developments, and trends.
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Welcoming visionaries
And, new in 2022 the SILMO Next will exhibit the winning creations of the first OPTICAL DESIGN CONTEST. A prize deserving of the challenge will be awarded to the winner of the competition at the next SILMO Paris.
of July, members of the jury gathered to evaluate the projects received and retain the most relevant among them.
• SI / Look to the future from Alessandro Battaini (NABA - New Academy of Fine Arts, Milan): a premounted glasses concept, interchangeable and versatile.
The strength and appeal of trade fairs are still just as great they promise encounters with clients and prospects, growth in turnover, and broader business horizons. They also offer the opportunity to take stock of the state of the sector, the reality of the market, and the new trends in terms of innovation and creation.
Atauthenticity.thebeginning
This showcase for creation and innovation hinges around various complementary focuses lectures workshops exploring new technologies (the Metaverse, intelligent glasses, and so on), and talks not to mention the digital village where companies gather to promote and sell their high tech products.
For this first edition, the competition is chaired by Emmanuel Gallina, a designer known for his creative ethos, sense of consistency and
At the heart of the event, professionals cannot overlook the interdisciplinary discussion space SILMO Next
• PERCY from Jocelyne Boisson (Design School of Landes, Mont-de-Marsan): a moulded aquatic mask that questions the role of vision, to be seen without necessarily seeing.
In keeping with this approach, and to accompany ophthalmic optical professionals in their pursuit of excellence, SILMO Paris will, once again, support research in the Vision and Optical Sciences with SILMO Academy. The Scientific Council will select one project to receive a grant of € 10 000. This year will also be an opportunity to discover the results or developments of the winning projects which received SILMO Academy grants in 2021 2020 and 2019.
• UNFOLDABLE from Adi Abramov (Shenkar College of Engineering, Design and Art, Ramat Gan, Israel): glasses made from recycled material in a brutalist aesthetic, with profiled X-hinge stems.
The long-awaited SILMO d’OR will have a place of honour. Like a living showcase of innovation, the 2022 edition’s nominated products and winners will be unveiled to the profession.
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The President of the Jury of the SILMO d’Or 2022 this year will be Jun Gobron
Born in Namibia to a Belgian father and a
• SONDER from Martina Sessa (NABA - New Academy of Fine Arts, Milan): glasses fitted with sensors to avoid headaches, limit back problems and correct bad posture.
Japanese mother, after graduating from the Free University of Brussels (ULB) with an Economic Sciences degree and gaining a few years’ experience at multinational corporations, he decided to make a career transition and become an interior architect and designer.
After an absence of two years, the SILMO Academy’s scientific symposium returns for its 11th edition. On Saturday 25 September from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., it will focus on ‘improving the vision and quality of life of the most vulnerable patients’.
Passionate about aesthetics, with an enthusiasm for creation and entrepreneurship, Jun Gobron then began studying at the École supérieure des Arts Saint-Luc of Brussels. He soon revealed his talent as a “designer of lightness”, combining the simplicity and streamlining of Japan with the elaborate decoration of Europe.
• GOOGLESS from Vincenzo Panico (NABANew Academy of Fine Arts, Milan): a modern reinvention of the nose clip and the monocle that plays on geometric shapes.
• OORA from Silvana Migliozzi (Politecnico di Milano): smart glasses intended for readers, whose principal application is the ability to annotate text and save quotes... at a glance.
Apart from the Lunor Classic, the M5 is also hand-made by experienced spectacle makers under fair working conditions at LUMAG, the corporate manufacture in Kämpfelbach, Baden-Württemberg, Germany.
mod M5 06 Panatomic
The M5 is a Lunor classic par excellence: The ultra-filigree frame with iconic glasses meets the just as iconic Lunor W-bridge forming a new shape with modern zeitgeist. The M5 line, a new edition of the Lunor V, a model from the 90s, is produced sustainably, fair, and precisely hand-made at the in-house manufacture LUMAG in the Black Forest. In 2020, the iconic model celebrated its magnificent comeback and presented itself in new shapes and colors.
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Lunor presents the LUMAG line M5 in new colors and shapes
A timeless moderninterpretedclassicinaway
The M5 shines in new designs now: characterized by its timeless panto shape and hand-made of high-quality metal, the M5 06 Panatomic is launched as a counterpart to the M5 03. The slightly smaller shape of the M5 06 is just as charismatic as its big sister and is available in the colors antique gold, antique silver, gold, platinum, and satin black. In addition, the iconic line is completed with the medium-sized shape M5 07 Anatomic. Manufactured with finest vintage design and anatomic shape, the M5 07 is an absolute vintage piece. Its special details – such as the perfectly shaped monobloc – make this model a real eyecatcher. The M5 07 Anatomic is available in the colors antique gold, antique silver, and satin black. The models M5 04 and M5 05 also get a color touch-up, also available in satin black as of now.
The reduced design of the M5 not only convinces with its exact manufacturing but also with its functionality and love for detail: The eyelets at the end of the temples are particular eyecatchers. Another feature of the M5 line is the material used: Made of light stainless steel and completed with flexible pads made of pure titanium, the frame combines both timeless elegance and highest wearing comfort.
Luca Guadagnino, Italian film director, in Loewe sunglasses mod LW40091I ph Stefania D’Alessandro
Thélios, the LVMH eyewear expert, in July announced their three-year collaboration with La Biennale di Venezia as a supporter of the Venice International Film Festival, becoming its official sponsor for eyewear starting this year.
The luxury eyewear company founded in 2017, made its official entry to the world of cinema, which has greatly contributed to make eyewear a fashionable accessory, thanks to iconic actresses and actors over the
“Thedecades.Venice International Film Festival is one of the most prestigious events in the world and we are proud to support La Biennale di Venezia, which is a strong ambassador of Italian culture at a global level.” - Alessandro Zanardo, CEO of Thélios commented “Cinema and eyewear have always been a perfect match, by aesthetics and the passion for details, giving people a vision on the world. In the history of cinema, eyewear has contributed to create iconic movie characters and help defining their personalities: we couldn’t think of a better field of expression than this festival, which is so close to our roots in the Veneto
Cate Blanchett, actress, in Stella McCartney sunglasses mod SC40051U ph Stefania D’Alessandro
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Thélios is the official eyewear sponsor of the Venice International Film Festival
Manifattura based in Longarone, in the Veneto region, Thélios stands for Italian craftsmanship at every step of production. Thélios is particularly proud to support Biennale Cinema 2022, a one-of-a kind Venetian cultural manifestation, which has such an international outreach. Highlight of the collaboration included the Thélios Suite, located at the prestigious Hotel Excelsior, which featured an institutional showroom presenting an exclusive selection of its Maisons’ Fall-Winter 2022 collections.
Alina Baikova, Ukrainian model, in Celine sunglasses mod CL40198F ph Pascal Le Segretain
Withregion”.its
THE LVMH EYEWEAR EXPERT
THÉLIOS DESIGNS, PRODUCES AND DISTRIBUTES SUNGLASSES AND OPTICAL FRAMES FOR SOME OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS LVMH MAISONS. WITH ITS MANIFATTURA, LOCATED IN LONGARONE, ITALY, THÉLIOS BLENDS THE DISTINCT IDENTITY OF EACH MAISON WITH ITALIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP TO CREATE EXCEPTIONAL LUXURY EYEWEAR. THÉLIOS OPERATES A HIGHLY SELECTIVE DISTRIBUTION NETWORK WITH A DIRECT COMMERCIAL PRESENCE IN ALL MAJOR MARKETS.
The results enhanced a previous three-year follow-up study1, a continuation of a two-year randomized control trial (RCT)2, which was published in the British Journal of Ophthalmology, demonstrating strong evidence of the lenses’ effectiveness in slowing down the progression of myopia in children ages 8-13. The findings of the sixyear, long-term follow-up study proved the MiYOSMART spectacle lens myopia control effect is sustained over time for children wearing the lens. It also confirmed that patients who stop wearing the MiYOSMART spectacle lens show no rebound effects when compared to the initial myopia rates of progression during the two-year randomized control trial or with the general population. “This six-year follow-up clinical study on the MiYOSMART
Launched in 2018, the MiYOSMART spectacle lens was developed in cooperation with The Hong Kong Polytechnic University to address myopia, or near sightedness which is a growing global health concern with industry experts predicting nearly 50% of the world’s population to be impacted by 2050.3 The lens uses D.I.M.S. Technology that provides children with sharp vision, can be placed in any children’s eyeglass frame and appears as a standard spectacle lens. Since 2018, two million patients in more than 30 countries have benefited from wearing the MiYOSMART spectacle lens.4
3. Holden B.A., Fricke T.R., Wilson D.A., Jong M., Naidoo K.S., Sankaridurg P., Wong T.Y., Naduvilath T.J., Resniko_ S. Global Prevalence of Myopia and High Myopia and Temporal Trends from 2000 through 2050. American Academy of Ophthalmology. 05/2016, vol.123, no. 5, p.1036–1042.
Strong evidence shows continued long-term lens effectiveness in slowing myopia progression in children H, Hatanaka T, To CH. Defocus Incorporated Multiple Segments (DIMS) spectacle lenses slow myopia progression: a 2-year randomized clinical trial. British Journal of Ophthalmology. Published Online First: 29 May 2019. doi: 10.136/bjophthalmol-2018-313739
HOYA Vision Care, a leader in optical technology innovation, shared the results of a six-year followup clinical study on its award winning MiYOSMART spectacle lens with Defocus Incorporated Multiple Segments (D.I.M.S.). The results of the longest study on a myopia management spectacle lens conducted on 90 children in Asia looked at the progression of myopia in children who wore the HOYA Vision Care’s MiYOSMART spectacle lens.
PRODUCT DISCLAIMER – MiYOSMART has not been approved for myopia management in all countries, including the U.S., and is not currently available for sale in all countries, including the U.S.
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“HOYA Vision Care is dedicated to being a leader in developing a safe, effective way to manage the growing problem of myopia in children,” she added.
1 Lam CS, Tang WC, Lee PH, et al. Myopia control effect of defocus incorporated multiple segments (DIMS) spectacle lens in Chinese children: results of a 3-year follow-up study. British Journal of Ophthalmology Published Online First: 17 March 2021. doi: 10.1136/ bjophthalmol-2020-317664 2 Lam CSY, Tang WC, Tse DY, Lee RPK, Chun RKM, Hasegawa K, Qi
4. Based on # lenses sold per Hoya sales data on file as of June 2022.
spectacle lens, the longest study conducted on a myopia management spectacle lens ever, shows the myopia control effects are sustainable over time which is very exciting news,” said Natalia Vlasak, Global head of Medical and Scientific Affairs at HOYA Vision Care. “This study also answered another key question from eye care professionals which was about the rebound effect of the lens - we are very pleased that this clinical study proves that there is no rebound effect if lens use is stopped.”
HOYA Vision Care Releases Results of First of its Kind Six-Year MiYOSMART Spectacle Lens Follow-up Clinical Study
1 Grand Prize, Grand
sustainedcontrolMyopiaeffectover6years*
and
of Inventions of Geneva in 2018 https://inventions-geneva.ch/ en/winners/ (accessed 19.07.2022). 2 SILMO d’Or 2020. https://en.silmoparis.com/SILMO-d-OR/SILMO-d-Or-Awards-archives/20202 (accessed 25.08.2022). The award-winning spectacle lens 1,2
*Lam CSY, Tang WC, Zhang A, Tse D, To CH. Myopia control in children wearing DIMS spectacle lens: 6 years results. The Association for Research in Vision and Ophthalmology (ARVO) 2022 Annual Meeting, May 1-4, Denver, US. Award Special Gold Medal at the 46th International Exhibition
ZEGNA EYEWEAR mod EZ0214
GANT EYEWEAR mod GA8094
of GANT EYEWEAR is mod GA8094, an oversized round frame with balanced lines and elegant rims. The vintage allure of these women’s sunglasses is updated by refined, luxe details. Gradient lenses and color variations give the style a fresh, elegant look. Two small, innovative metal torchon on the temples surround the logo, while the iconic diamond G logo decorates the temple tips.
Thetemples.proposal
The new collectionsMarcolinatSilmo 2022
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ZEGNA EYEWEAR presents mod EZ0214. These sharp squared frames with a geometric design and bold volumes have thick rims with embedded lenses. The temples of this acetate style have a core with Vicuña enamel on the inner side that reproduces the signifier. The new ZEGNA logo embellishes the outside of the flat
WEB EYEWEAR mod WE0338
There are many novelties in the collections presented on the market by Marcolin, among them the WEB EYEWEAR model WE0338, a men’s sunglasses with a classic-inspired pilot silhouette revisited in terms of shape and thickness. A double bridge meets sleek profiles on the front and temples, which subtly reveal the classic torchon detail as a unique temple core embellishing the frame.
MADE IN MARCOLIN SEEN WWW.MARCOLIN.COMEVERYWHERE
With this in mind, the 2023 INVU Women’s Fashion collection was created. The most up to date high street fashion styles, crafted in the latest spring 2023 designer colors have been paired the most advanced material technologies. As for the lens choice, nothing compares to the proprietary ultra polarized lens by Swiss Eyewear Group. The lens offers ultimate crystal-clear, glare free vision while the beautiful, trendy gradient design complements the frame
INVU 2023 collection will be showcased at the ADCL booth during the Silmo show 2022.
mod B2333 mod B2334
INVU – In a different league from the usual high street fashion
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Thecolors.entire
Most high street women’s fashion sunglasses offer little functionality. “There is no reason for this” says Beat Christ, head designer of the INVU brand. “Women are very sophisticated when it comes to the latest fashion trends. Unfortunately, most of these fashion sunglasses offer little in the way of lenses performance. Women deserve more and should not have to choose between fashion and the latest technological advances.”
MYOpis is the new lens developed by Divel Italia for the management of myopia progression and the correction of other forms of nearsightedness.
MYOPIAMYOpis PROGRESSION MANAGEMENT
MYOpis classic lenses are intended exclusively as lenses that help control myopia or, better, that can, over time, help limit the progression of myopia.
To control the myopia progression, the defocus technology of MYOpis Boosted was introduced. This technology can correct the hyperopic defocus that will occur peripherally on the retina and make all the light focus correctly in any place.
The new MYOpis classic lens was designed by developing concentric degression areas. The special geometry of this lens starts with a 16mm view zone with the optical power required and continues out to the edge of the lens with concentric diopter degression areas. The maximum degression that can be achieved at the edge of the lens is 2.50 dpt, and the progression is calculated by the software, which takes account of the necessary changes based on the diopter required and the diameter of the useful area the lens will have.
The frontside of the Myopis Boosted is composed by a central correction zone and 294 lenslets that spread on 7 rings. The central correction zone is in 10mm diameter. 294 lenslets are in different diameters (varies from 0.60 to 1.90mm), which can not only simulate the eyeball and enhance the defocus effect, but also balance the light sensation. The volume of Myopic Defocus varies from 1.75D to 3.00D.
The MYOpis lenses are intended exclusively as lenses that can, over time, help limit the progression of myopia.
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“The Peripheral Defocus Theory” was first proposed by Dr. Earl L. Smith, professor from the University of Houston. The theory explains the influence of optical defocus on myopia progression. In a study on the myopia progression, it finds that the elongation of the eye’s axial can cause the myopic defocus on the central retina, simultaneously, the hyperopic defocus occurs on peripheral zone of the retina. The study also indicates that the 1mm increasement of the eye’s axial can cause 3.00D myopia increasement.
MYOPIA
Boosted PROGRESSION MANAGEMENT
www.divel.it
The new made in Germany collection “LOOP INVISIBLE”
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This September Düsseldorf Eyewear is going to launch a new rimless titanium collection with the name “Loop Invisible”. The collection includes 18 new rimless models in recent colors of the season with modern lens shapes and the design protected “Wire Loop” temples for a maximum of lightness and wearing comfort. The collection is going to be the first Made in Germany collection of Düsseldorf Eyewear. From the creation and product development to the production in a renown manufactory every single step is realized exclusively in Germany. With this next step over to a production in the own country with optimized processes, more flexible production and faster delivery distances there will be less emissions and a smaller CO2 footprint of the products which helps to protect the environment.
All Düsseldorf Eyewear products are designed and developed with love and passion by the team in Düsseldorf at the companies headquarters and are produced with high quality materials like titanium, stainless-steel or acetate in the best facilities only. The titanium models are produced directly in Japan and the acetate for the “Windsor Rim“ models comes from Italy, which is worldwide known for its high quality acetate
The new collection “Loop Invisible” will be presented to clients and fans in September 2022 at the renown international trade fair events of the industry and can be ordered from then on. For those would like to see and feel the new collection live and in hands, this can be realized by a visit at the Interlook in Dortmund, the DaTE in Florence or at the SILMO in Paris.
Düsseldorffacilities.
Eyewear, the German independent eyewear label grows its fanbase since the founding in 2016 and convinces with modern frames and unique designs. Skillfully and well dosed or new interpreted vintage influences as well as attractive material mixes make the typical Düsseldorf Eyewear look. Distinctive shapes and progressive designs in combination with innovative tech form the collections of the company from Düsseldorf. The reference to its hometown and fashion metropole Düsseldorf can be found in the fashionable frames and their product names which all are named after a special street, place or building of the city.
4. Boldness: The brand expresses its creativity through shapes, colors, the combination of materials and the transmission of know-how that drives its designers. As a result of its work, Morel’s Design Team has won many awards (Red Dot Award, If Design, Silmo d’or).
3. Passion: Equally passionate about qualitative craftsmanship and the respect for its motherland, the Morel brand today is present on the 5 continents with 15 subsidiaries.
MOREL’slife.
legacy is built on five core values:
One land, two passions
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2. Independence: Freedom enables Morel to create unique frames that inspire individuality and confidence. The vision of independence has been passed down for four generations as Morel remains a family-owned business creating eyewear.
A pioneer in his time, Jules, at the young age of 25, was one of the first to start his own eyewear business. Humble and honest, he strove to make quality frames out of his love for craftsmanship. Proud of his double heritage, he divided his time between his appreciation of nature and his passion for eyewear design throughout his
In 1880, Jules Morel followed the seasons, living in harmony with nature: from farming during the spring and summer to crafting frames during the winter. That’s how the precursor of frames, the “pince-nez” (directly translated as “nose clip”), was invented.
Looking forward to the future and feeling grateful for the past” has always been the adage of Morel. It is the authenticity of this maxim which drew the inspiration for the new 2022 campaign. A historical series of original photos depicting genuinely bold characters features the frames of Morel new collection. The campaign is a journey through time that begins with the portrait of Jules Morel. This is the starting point of a tribute to the four generations who have crossed all eras with passion and audacity making Morel House a global, independent French brand manufacturer. Morel has also revisited its logo. The cat became the official emblem of Morel in 1957. Jacques, the grandson of Jules Morel, had the brilliant idea to create a maker’s mark to stamp Morel’s gold frames - a cat surmounting a capital M. This custom, borrowed from jewelers, later inspired the creation of the Morel logo.
Morel was born of an ancestral tradition from the Jura mountains located in France.
1. Genuity: Morel is a 4th generation family company that has remained true to its core values since 1880. 140 years later, Jules Morel’s expertise and passion for eyewear lives on and is represented in the brand’s designs.
5. Responsibility: Now more than ever, Morel is committed to being socially responsible and overcoming the global challenges of our time.
New frames of contemporaneity.THEEYEWEARSTATEOFTHE ART February 4-6, 2023 | Fiera Milano, Rho
MuriuThandiwePH:-MAXGALLI-GROUPMIXER
At Silmo we’ll see also BLUSH, her new affordable, highly individual, colorful collection that embellishes like blush on the cheeks, a chill breath of fresh air. Bicolor acetate frames fashioned with relief, marked with a bezel that affords a touch of perfection, offering grace and distinction.
The optical frame collection I-man, designed exclusively for men, introduces styles crafted for a cross-section of wearers who love classic lines. Matthew - the launch-ready collection - is an adventure in acetate that cuts-up with the color palette. The metal clip-on for the all-acetate frames enhances stability and adhesion to the frame itself.
X-Ide: creativity, style and fine craftsmanship: the X-Ide brand loves to experiment with colors and craft and the new collection will make its debut at Silmo.
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Attention to detail, materials and jeweler’s precision make Rye&Lye a top-of-the-range luxury line. Each detail is an ode to the discerning exploration of shapes and juxtaposition of materials, where attention to detail becomes an art form that is narrated through the eyewear itself. Nefty, with its elongated feminine optical frame, is a sneak preview of the collection that will debut at Silmo.
MIC – Made in Cadore: a brand whose name is a tribute to nature and to its land of origin. The classic shapes of these styles are reinterpreted with an eye to proportion and scale, while the colors echo the subtle shades of nature, upping their beauty quotient.
Rye&Lye mod Nefty
mod Azimut
by four gold Silmo awards, the Filao company opened its workshops of craft manufacturing in Dakar where Caroline spent her childhood. She trained a women’s team there, which have been manufacturing for 15 years, all her accessory lines Caroline Abram uses diverse materials such as resin, the silver, wood, semiprecious stones...
During her journeys she discovered the charm of Florida and in 2008, she launched her own line of glasses reminding her of the old-fashioned charm of Miami. Since then, Caroline created the addiction, the desire to possess frames and sunglasses in all the colors, to coordinate them with bags and shoes.
For glasses addicted
Not IMMAGINEeyewear:just98, a Style Journey
Optician trained during several years in designeroriented stores, Caroline Abram started in 1998 designing jewels and accessories for the eyewear
Rewardedmarket.
The line KIDS&TEENS by JFRey offers a wide choice of trendy shapes, mixes of styles and colors that adapt to the physiognomy of young people, always making sure to match the fashion codes and trends of each age group, from 4 to 16 years old. New pieces and reissues of emblematic shapes make up the new collection, distinguished by its creative energy in the color ranges, the numerous exclusive laminations and the creation of personal designs taken up in screen printing. The childlike shapes are developed with a real enthusiasm for bright colors and fancy touches: multicolored light scales, graphic details in the materials and fresh pastels restore the playful and joyful world in which 4/8 years old evolve. The cuts are flattering, the shapes very comfortable and always perfectly fitted thanks to the JUST ADJUST patented technology. Timeless classics such as Black, Blue or sober tortoiseshell are favor by 8/16 years old and highlighted by their modern prints and stylistic effects that remind the brand’s signature design. A series of thin metal frames in trendy and ultra-fresh colors completes the range for teenage.
The names of the models represent a real journey to Armenia, among some of Alain Miklitarian’s favourite and most inspiring places. The colours are inspired by nature. The shades blend naturally with lavender, gold, enamel and earth colours. The laminated temples are made of acetate with a coloured titanium core to catch the light discreetly and delicately. The fronts are sober, classic, with sculpted volumes and angles.
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Optical Collection by JF REY KIDS&TEENS
“Il y avait les lunettes avant Alain et il y a la lunette après Alain”... It is called “Anima Armena”, the new collection of the Dansharian brand signed by Alain Miklitarian - the creative genius who revolutionised the concept of eyewear -, available from September 2022. It is the new and exclusive line created by Danshari, the Made in Japan company inspired by Zen philosophy and the concepts of essentiality, minimalism and design.
The collection consists of seven models - six optical and one sunglass -. Two optical models and one sunglass model are in Limited Edition, in two colour versions of only 222 numbered pieces. The other four frames are available in three colour versions.
Danshari presents “Anima Armena” by AlainTheMiklitarianNew2022
mod Garni
mod JF14830185
At Silmo, Dansharian is also presenting a world-first preview of a unique patent, FTS (Flat Temple System), which allows the temples to be closed perfectly without causing tension or deformation in the overlap.
Komono makes the avantgarde more achievable
In addition, AdaptaFit styles feature a memory metal alloy that provides increased flexibility for a better, more comfortable fit, and AmplFit styles allow even more size inclusivity thanks to extended headspace, added width and flex hinges. The Titanium models are super lightweight and durable while also creating a hypoallergenic metal option.
At the heart of the new Elliott Ives collection by Kenmark, dedicated to Men & Women Ages 40+, is a leisurely lifestyle inspired by the natural world. Each season we’ll reflect on earthy hues and flattering details born from the great outdoors. Rich colors and classic tortoises with mature detailing for a smart, yet relaxed, look. One of the distinguishing characteristics of this collection is the expansive size range offered— featuring a 4mm spread in women’s and a 6mm spread in men’s sizing for each style to create a very versatile assortment. Additionally, Kenmark introduced styles featuring an ultracomfortable memory metal alloy, form-fitting acetates, flex hinges and super lightweight titanium, so there’s always a satisfying fit for wherever your day may take you.
Komono will attend Silmo and present some new collections and, as a preview, the 2023 theme Nothing To Hide campaign, sequel to the 2022 Come As You Are campaign.
mod Clem, CalicoHearts and Norfolk
Lee Violet 2 KOM-S8354
Since 2009, Komono, deeply rooted in the Antwerp fashion arena, leads innovation and contemporary design in the world of accessories - watches and eyewear - with its inspirational style, stunning colour palette and forward-thinking design.
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The new Elliott Ives collection: inspired by a natural world
The products are designed from the brand studio in Antwerp and the frames are made from the highestquality materials: whether it be acetate, made from natural materials such as wood and cotton or leather, extracted from the finest cow and calf hides. Komono materials are responsibly and ecologically sourced to offer the best quality available. Furthermore, from 2022 onwards all the new collections will be made from fully eco-friendly and sustainable materials. Komono believes that we all collectively have a responsibility to progress towards a more sustainable future.
Elegance,shapes.
On the occasion of SILMO, Kelinse Eyewear presents the models of its new F/W 2022 collection, with the aim of making its reality known to an ever-growing international audience.
Already present in over 400 opticians’ centers in Italy, Spain and Greece, Kelinse wants to put the expertise of independent opticians at the centre of attention, entrusting the opticians with the task of narrating the specific features of the range.
The collection consists of 14 new models in addition to the 13 existing ones. The brand’s distinctive features, from the vivid and eye-catching colours to the iconic patterns, are present in the new designs, in addition to the new ultra-fine metal frames.
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kitsch, irrational shapes and the power of unusual but trendy colours are mixed in models suitable for all ages. In Kelinse’s design there is all the energy of great Italian design, recognisable in the distinctive features of Ettore Sottsass’s Memphis group.
New colours for the Jean François Rey women collection
For the coming season, Maison Jean François Rey has given new colours to its creations for the women’s collection, which will be presented for the first time in Paris at Silmo.
Kelinse Eyewear @ SILMO with its new eyewear collection
Born from the creativity of the Bestmad design group, Kelinse’s aim is to present an innovative product with an exclusive allure, which wants to overturn the idea of the traditional frame, with an unconventional play on
27VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – nr. 03 / 2022
JF3006
In these fine coloured feminine metal frames the style is built on the rhythm of the material and the vibrations of the colour materialized by fluid geometric lines and dynamic colours. Particular attention is paid to details, such as the thinness of the engraved lines, or the face structured by an engraving in relief. Flash and satin colours, a colourful graphic aesthetic that gives an optimistic vision of the future. Made, of course, in France, in the workshops in the Jura.
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Already a trusted partner to a handful of leaders and disruptors in the optical business, including McLaren Vision, Skugga’s Mikael Eriksson, CEO, states: “We look forward to welcoming visitors and exhibitors to our stand at the Paris fair. We are a tech company with a vision to provide smart glasses for the many, thereby providing data beneficial for both customers and consumers.”
Thanks to exclusive technologies, the new styles adapt to smaller faces, based on designs meant to improve kids’ lives from the time they’re infants. In the quest to deliver a superior product, each style is developed in collaboration with ophthalmologists, specialists and parents.
Swedish tech player, SKUGGA, for the first time at SILMO
In order to produce ultralight eyewear that hold up under the active use of small children, the front of the new styles is made of NIL (Natural Injection Light), a state-of-the-art technopolymer whose particles are molded into the most unique and balanced shapes. The innovative ingenuity of this product lies in the temples, where the internal part is in EVO (EVOlution polymer), derived from the development of its RUBBER EVO “big brothers”. Especially suited to children’s frames, EVO is soft to the touch, so it also ensures greater wearing comfort during active use without sacrificing the huge cool-factor of NIL products.
Super lightweight and soft to the touch – the new LOOKKINO NIL KIDS series 3880, specifically for kids 4 years and up, focus on their joy and vitality.
Sweden Skugga Technology Ab, the Swedish tech player set to transform the eyewear sector with the smart glasses technology of the future, confirmed their presence for the first time at SILMO 2022.
In addition to the collection with McLaren, Skugga is developing smart glasses for other global players with launches slated for Launched2023.in2015, Skugga Technology have created the first simple, fully scalable mass-produced platform and ecosystem for smart fashion and design-oriented eyewear. The platform is integrated in the form of a streamlined module which will fit a wide variety of frames in different materials such as acetate, 3D-printed polymer and injection plastic frames – without requiring the eyewear brand to compromise on its DNA, style and material quality.
Based in Stockholm, Skugga Technology has a second office in Milan with sales representatives for customers and manufacturers.
New Lookkino styles dress children’s eyes in lightweight Nil
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Known for technological innovations based on a sustainable brand philosophy, the Austrian premium label Neubau Eyewear also focuses on visual inspiration. With the restart of the physical trade fairs, Neubau Eyewear will present its new products at SILMO Paris 2022. SILMO is considered a source of inspiration and innovation in the world of optics. Just like SILMO Paris, the Neubau Eyewear brand is known to be setting new standards based on a sustainable brand philosophy since 2016. In doing so, the premium label proves that high quality, premium design and the responsible use of our environment’s resources go hand in hand.
Lightbird, the 100% Made in Italy brand from Belluno, presents itself at Silmo with new models from the Light_Social collection, made entirely of acetate. A preview of the Ambassador LB082 C108 men’s eyewear and Professor LB080 C101 unisex eyewear models inaugurate a new series of frames characterised by a minimalist, contemporary design, defined lines and shapes where colour combinations make the eyewear more and more an accessory capable of characterising one’s look. In addition to the detailed workmanship on the front and temple, the presence of a QR Code in the terminal stands out. Through the Light_NEST company website, it guarantees the product and establishes a relationship of loyalty between the company, the optician and the customer.
Under the official SILMO slogan “Welcoming Visionaries”, innovations and new products are the focus of this year’s NEUBAU brand presentation. With the launch of the first optical collection made of sustainable, plant-based acetate, Neubau presents new models of the natural acetate collection from the optical and sun segments. In addition, the premium brand will showcase its new optical eyewear made of high-quality beta titanium and the 65% plant-based material naturalPX.
The Light_Social collection
atNEUBAUVISIONARIES”!“WELCOMINGEYEWEARSILMOParis2022
LIGHTBIRDby
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Isabella Morpurgo
INTERVIEW
I.M.: Does this particular background of yours make it easier for you to collaborate with other companies in the sector or to invest in research and development? I would mention, for example, the partnership with Zeiss for the collections under its name, or the special materials made for you by Eastman.
As a VSP Vision group company, Marchon Eyewear offers a portfolio of vision technologies and products to its customers, thanks to a network of 38,000 VSP Toophthalmologists.betterunderstand what Marchon Eyewear, Inc. stands for today, I had the chance, at Mido 2022 in Milan, to meet Thomas Burkhardt, who at the time of the interview was Senior Vice President Global Licensing & Marketing and has been later appointed President of the company.
Marchon Eyewear is an ‘anomalous’ company among the big players in our industry because it is ‘not for profit’, being part of VSP Vision, a large not-for-profit group working in the field of health and wellness.
T.B. : Founded in 1983, Marchon Eyewear is one of the three largest eyewear companies in the world. The company has a very pragmatic approach, so we are all oriented towards the concrete realisation of our goals and purpose to empower human potential through sites. These reasons make us particularly ‘attractive’ to various brands, not
BurkhardtbyexplainedEyewearMarchonThomas
Marchon Eyewear has more than 2,700 employees in more than 20 countries worldwide. It has three headquarters, in New York, Amsterdam and Hong Kong. Its main design centres are located in New York City and in Italy, in Puos d’Alpago. Design branch offices are also located in Hong Kong, Tokyo, Sweden and California.
T.B. : We owe the development of our licensing
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least because nowadays people like to work with companies that are not just about business and profit.
The one with Zeiss is a partnership and is yielding really interesting results such as the recently presented Spring/Summer 2022 collection, where we managed to merge Marchon’s design and manufacturing skills for frames with Zeiss’ innovation and technology for lenses.
Marchon Eyewear and Calvin Klein celebrated the 30th anniversary of their collaboration with a special capsule collection and a dedicated campaign. The anniversary collection pays homage to the brand’s launch collection from the beginning of the collaboration, a reference to the iconic styles of the 1990s. The 5 models of prescription glasses and 4 models of sunglasses draw inspiration from some of Calvin Klein’s most iconic spectacle frames.
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CK22108T
goals and offer important benefits to its customers. The two companies had already collaborated in the autumn of 2020 with the use of Eastman’s Acetate Renew: a completely sustainable material, composed of 60 per cent organic and 40 per cent certified recycled materials and is currently used in Marchon’s Responsible Eyewear Salvatore Ferragamo collection.
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I.M.: You recently celebrated the 30th anniversary of your collaboration with Calvin Klein with a capsule collection. At the time, this brand was certainly the key to Marchon’s future. Since then, your fashion portfolio has expanded exponentially. How do you reconcile this dual personality (fashion and non-profit welfare)?
The collaboration with Eastman, on the other hand, allowed us to use Eastman’s Tritan Renew material for the frame and tinted lenses of the same eyewear model. Tritan Renew is a sustainable copolyester made from the polyester recycling technology developed by Eastman. By using this material, Marchon will be able to maintain its sustainability
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business to Calvin Klein. Calvin Klein and Marchon started their licensing partnership in 1992. At the time, the idea of a fashion brand licensing its name for eyewear was an entirely new concept. Calvin Klein’s glasses were an immediate success and have remained one of the most popular eyewear brands ever since.
We have no problem bringing our multiple personalities together and balancing them because our focus includes: providing the best service and generating value for all our customers and eyewear professionals, being the preferred partner for our licensees and suppliers, being the best employer for our employees and the communities in which they live.
T.B.: Our ‘soul’ is definitely Italian. Marchon is a company born and based in the USA and of the USA it has the seriousness and the corporate purpose, but the links with fashion, culture and what we need to know how to reinterpret the DNA of the Brands that entrust us with their collections come to us from Italy, as well as the production capacities that derive from the know-how that Italy has offered us and we are aware and proud of this.
After its debut with this brand, Marchon Eyewear is now an integral part of the fashion industry, working closely with many designers and some of the world’s leading fashion, lifestyle and technical brands.
I.M.: I still remember, in the 1990s, the big opening party of your first headquarters in Veneto with the late Al Berg (co-founder of Marchon Eyewear in 1983). How Italian does the company feel? Has Made in Italy production given you an “extra gear”?
INTERVIEW
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Lanvin’s new Mother&Child Curb sunglasses have temples enhanced by colourful embroidery evoking the laces of the Maison’s most iconic sneaker. The frame is a combination of a bold premium acetate structure and temples made of plant-derived resin, a “cleaner” alternative to standard petroleum-derived plastic. The metallic Mother&Child logo on the temples is a final touch of luxury and sophistication, a symbol of uniqueness and unmistakable elegance.
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Zeiss and Marchon recently presented the new eyewear models featured in the brand’s latest advertising campaign. Synonymous with innovation and cutting-edge technology, ZEISS can count on a tradition of excellence in the production of lenses that offer extraordinary vision. The same high quality standards also characterise the brand’s sunglasses and prescription models: timeless, light and comfortable, born from a unique mastery of the use of colour and elegant lines.
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Νοvember 19 & 20, 2022 ATHENS, GREECE circumeye.gr BUSINESSEYEWEARCREATIVE [Ηello Future] CircumEye# 4 4ΤΗ ΕDITION OF A UNIQUE EXHIBITION 12 Gkompino & 7 Gouzeli str., 11476 Athens - Greece ✆: +30 211 4021758 e-mail: info@welldone.com.gr Οrganizer Agent in Italy www.welldone.com.gr Communication Sponsor www.eyemagazine.gr magazine Via Mentana 11, 2 42123 Reggio Emilia Tel:+39 0522 Email:info@mediatic.it383620
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For any small independent company that is not bound to large international groups - regardless if it is a start-up or an established companythinking of relying only on its local market, even if successful, cannot be a reason for stability and Beingsurvival.in the market today means having an international vision and certainly devising a product consistent with one’s own specific DNA and in any case always responding to the needs
SpecialistEyewearThe
THE COMPOSITION OF A SAMPLES SET: A COMPLEX MOSAIC, BETWEEN ART AND SCIENCE
Fabio Avarello
and desires of a diversified public such as the global Certainly,one.the creative ‘spark’ at the basis of any idea - which must in any case be confronted with market feedback - is fundamental for the birth of a new brand or a new collection of an already existing brand. The punctual and methodical analysis of the market niches to be developed in each of the countries where it is necessary to be profitably present, on the other hand, is the
Fabio ProductAvarelloManager, Creative Director and specialist consultant in the eyewear sector for both Retail and Wholesale, he works with major manufacturers as well as emerging companies, developing winning collections and trends. He supports sales and marketing teams to achieve their objectives, proactively suggesting tactical and strategic actions both in terms of marketing and through the application of category management rules, anticipating consumer and market needs. As a qualified optician and optometrist, he designed and strategically managed assortments for 10 years in large Italian optical retail fabioava@hotmail.comcompanies.
Although, logically, the small realities are less structured than the giants of reference in the
managerCategory responsibilities
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• Sales dynamics over the year • Data on brands by format and packaging type • Price positioning in the distribution market
• Current and potential demand behaviour • Manufacturers’ offer • Competitor actions • Purchasing conditions • Sales dynamics Market Internalarenaarena
ManagementSales Responsibilities
Positioningsupplierstowards Demand analysis
Category role
of the result of these analyses and the creative aspect that the ‘assortment matrix’ is then elaborated, which as a whole determines the potential popularity of a collection that aims to go beyond the ephemeral success of those few seasons of visibility that instead concern most of the proposals.
CategoryCategoryrivalstowardsanalysisstrategicplansOperationalplan
essential condition to create the prerequisites for the permanence and subsistence of the Brand in the medium to long term.
Mktg strategies for individual departments
DevelopmentAssortmentandcontrol
global eyewear market, even these companies cannot disregard a precise identification of their specific product proposition, through the analysis of each single element of the chart shown here:
Category objectives
Positioningcustomerstowards
Definition
ResourcesDisplayrequired
Fundamental analyses
PromotionPricing
•
Both of the analyses described cannot be the result of improvisation and require adequate prepara-tion and professionalism; these skills are equal in dignity and value to others with greater visibility (such as designers), which, at first glance, might seem to be the only ones that are indispensable. It is precisely from the alchemic combination
However subjectively one may think that a product is totally innovative and incomparable (which is quite unlikely, considering the quantity of the
existing offer), the creative aspect must in any case be compared with the analysis of competitors, according to the following indications:
Positioning
The eyewear market deals mainly with the design, production and sale of optical frames, ready-towear spectacles, ophthalmic lenses, and sun glasses. The first three are medical devices which usually belong to risk class I, according to the EU Medical Device Regulation (2017/745). They can be considered “simple”, as contact with the user oc curs only locally and superficially. Usually, they are manufactured according to design principles that have been known and proven for years. If the manufacturer follows such principles, showing they comply with the applicable regulatory perfor mance and safety requirements is usually simple. Thus, the question often arises as to whether the “Clinical Evaluation”, that is - the activity that in volves the collection and analysis of clinical data both before and during the placing on the market of the device – is necessary to place these devi ces on the market.
What is the clinical evaluation?
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The answer to this question can be found in the very same Medical Device Regulation (MDR).
The clinical evaluation is one of the milestones of the MDR: Article 2, point 44, defines the clinical evaluation as a systematic and planned process to continuously generate, collect, analyse and assess the clinical data pertaining to a device in order to verify the safety and performance, including clinical benefits and to evaluate side effects, when used as intended by the manufac
Clariscience, as an independent and highly specialized consultancy agency, offers a panel of integrated services designed to help its customers from the medical devi ce and IVD sector, in achieving and main taining regulatory and quality compliance and succeeding on the market through a clear and inspiring scientific communica info@clariscience.comtion.
THE INDUSTRYTHEEVALUATIONCLINICALINEYEWEAR
data are information on safety and performance generated by the use of a medical device, according to the intended use, the intended purpose and the indications established by the manufacturer. To demonstrate the safety and performance of a medical device, clinical evidence must be provided.
Clinicalturer.
COMMUNICATIONANDQUALITYREGULATORY,
Clinical evidence can be produced and collected in many ways; the main ones are conducting clinical investigations with the medical device of interest and retrieving and referencing data publicly availa
ble. Others can also be devised and deployed (for example, questionnaires, etc.).
• confirm compliance with the relevant general sa fety requirements;
Is the world of eyewear an exception?
As far as safety is concerned, these devices - as long as their design and manufacturing complies with the well-established standards of the eyewear sector, with no modifications - can usually be con sidered compliant with the general safety require
According to the requirements of Article 61 of the Regulation, the clinical evaluation is done to:
In certain cases, demonstration of compliance with the general safety and performance requi
The clinical evaluation is a process that must be carried out before placing the device on the mar ket. It must be updated throughout the device life cycle, by executing a set of activities named PMCF - Post Market Clinical Follow-up. Their frequency is established by the manufacturer mainly in relation to the type of device and its risk class. PMCF acti vities for Class III devices and implantable devices, though, must be carried out at least once a year.
• confirm the performance of the medical device; • evaluate the unwanted side effects that may ari se;
Who should do the clinical evaluation and when should it be done?
cal safety, again by following the ISO standards (mainly, those already listed and the UNI EN ISO 10993 series of standards concerning biological safety).
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The clinical evaluation must be carried out by, and under the responsibility, of the manufacturer.
Article 61 of the Regulation establishes: “The ma nufacturer shall specify and justify the level of clini cal evidence necessary to demonstrate conformity with the relevant general safety and performance requirements. That level of clinical evidence shall be appropriate in view of the characteristics of the device and its intended purpose. To that end, ma nufacturers shall plan, conduct and document a clinical evaluation”.
rements based on clinical data is not necessary In the eyewear sector, this is the case when the devices are manufactured according to known design principles, whose validity has been pro ven for years.
What is its purpose?
Therefore, and concerning eyewear, devices desi gned and manufactured according to well-establi shed principles are involved will usually have their performance and safety proofed only based on considerations or tests that are conducted in the preclinical phase, without collecting clinical data.
• evaluate the acceptability of the benefit-risk ratio.
Mechanical safety
The adequate performance of both the optical fra mes, the ready-to-wear spectacles, and the oph thalmic lenses will be proofed, as a rule, by the results of tests conducted according to the UNI EN ISO standards of reference (mainly, UNI EN ISO 12870 for frames, UNI EN ISO 14889 for ophthalmic lenses, UNI EN 14139 for ready-to-wear specta Oncles).the other hand, the safety of these devices shall be assessed in terms of mechanical and biologi-
Under this circumstance, manufacturers, based on the results of the risk management and on consi deration of the specifics of the interaction between the device and the human body, as well as on the clinical performance intended and what they claim about the device, provide adequate justification for basing the conformity of the device only on results of non-clinical tests.
Biological safety
If the experts state the material is safe (also in rela tion to the manufacturing process), the biological risk deriving from the introduction of the new ma terial will be regarded as acceptable (i.e., already reduced as far as possible). The expert’s conclusion will be integral part of the device technical docu
Case Prescription1 frames, ready-to-wear spectacles and ophthalmic lenses that are produced from materials which have been used for years and have a long history of safety (they could even be defined as “historically safe”). Their safety is such that no adverse events have ever been reported concerning the devices they are made of, or they have occurred at a rate that is smaller than a preci se threshold, deemed acceptable by the manufac turer, identified according to post-market follow-up Ifdata.this is the case, the manufacturer will produce a rationale, demonstrating how the device of interest is equivalent to other devices which have been on the market for years, and do not have a histo ry of adverse events or reports. This document, together with data concerning the safety of the materials and the manufacturing process used, will demonstrate the biological safety of the device.
Two other aspects call for attention:
Case Ready-to-wear2 spectacles, prescription frames and ophthalmic lenses produced with (new) materials whose harmlessness cannot be proved ba sed on historical data.
Things change when it comes to checking biologi cal safety. As a rule, two cases are possible:
Adequate proof must be given that the surface fi nish does not significantly alter during the entire life span of the device, as stated by the manufacturer; if it is so, and the finish acts as a protective barrier between the base material and the user, only the biological safety of the finishing material will be
In this case, the manufacturer is required to ad dress the matter through a targeted risk analysis, •considering:dataonskin contact and absorption toxicity rela ted to the material under examination
• hypersensitivity test
ments when they pass the usual eyewear sector tests, that is those described by the already men tioned standards (again, UNI EN ISO 12870 for fra mes, UNI EN ISO 14889 for ophthalmic lenses, UNI EN 14139 for ready-to-wear spectacles).
COMMUNICATIONANDQUALITYREGULATORY,
1. In addition to considering the material used to manufacture the device, attention must be paid to the surface finish
• data relating to the manufacturing process
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• data on the use of the material in question, on me dical databases, in related commercial products for application to frames and ophthalmic lenses.
The acquisition and analysis of these data should preferably be performed by a toxicologist and a qualified doctor. The toxicological assessment must be carried out following the ISO 10993-1: 2018 standard. The experts will produce a biological as sessment plan, providing their opinion regarding the safety of the material.
If,mentation.ontheother hand, the data available concerning the materials and processes used won’t allow the experts to come to a firm conclusion in relation to the biological safety of the device, this will have to be assessed directly, through one or more of the following tests:
• cytotoxicity test
• skin irritation text
compliance with the Regulation (EU) 2017/745. Write to vedere@clariscience.com to book an appointment with one of our experts.
Rely our team of full
experts to achieve
Need a team?rescue
on
2. Any risk analysis won’t be limited to the fini shed product (that is, the medical device), but will consider also the production processes of both the raw materials and the device, so as to exclu de any contamination or alteration of the devices.
What are the scenarios that deviate from tradi tional approach?
How should the manufacturer behave?
Whether you are still in the design phase of your ophthalmic medical device or you have already made it, you must be sure you are following the correct procedure to put your product on the mar ket. What may seem a negligible detail could be a
COMMUNICATIONANDQUALITYREGULATORY,
turning point for the clinical and regulatory path of your Sinceproduct.athorough assessment involves technical skills ranging from the regulatory area to that of scientific communication, passing from the toxico logical and medical field, relying on a multidisci plinary team, including experts from the world of eyewear, is usually the best choice. They can help you to “frame” your device correctly, to take the correct path to place it on the market, and to carry you all the consequent activities.
Thus,element.new devices may be conceived that deviate from traditional design and production. Any such deviation should be assessed thoroughly, as any significant change might make a clinical evaluation
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Examplesnecessary.might be the frames equipped with elec tronic components, and featuring broader medical and non-medical indications of use than traditional ones, including the latest generation “smart glas ses”, which incorporate video cameras, earphones and microphones and have the ability to connect to digital devices even via wireless connections. Other cases possibly calling for a clinical evaluation to be performed include the use of materials that have never been used for manufacturing eyewe ar, as well as the adoption of materials that have been purposedly created ex-novo. Even those ca ses where historically safe materials or processes undergo any substantial change call for a thorough, in-depth analysis.
assessed. If not, the manufacturer will assess the biological safety of both the base material and the finishing material.
The eyewear industry uses many materials that have been known for years. Yet, it is constantly evolving, and investing in the search for innovative and trendy materials, to offer brand-new solutions to a market where eyewear becomes a distinctive
BLUNAVA srl Via Campocroce, 14 30037 Scorzè (Ve) info@blunava.com – www.blunava. com Ph. +39 041 8877833 FILTERING SYSTEMS
A leading lady for Go Eyewear
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I have known Raffaella da Riz for decades and, over time, I have followed her as her career in the industry progressed in leaps and Inbounds.2018,she joined GO EYEWEAR and the results of her work were soon to be seen.
I.M. As Group Vice President, what are you really proud of today?
R.D.R The list is long and the achievements since 2018 are many. Today, Go Eyewear has 9 subsidiaries in Europe, 60 distributors worldwide and a portfolio of 6 JanuaryBrands.2022 saw the birth of GO Eyewear USA, the American subsidiary. B2B e-commerce is successfully operating for the European market and will soon be activated in the USA.
I.M. Let’s talk about your six Brands. What are their main characteristics?
I.M. Which company was Go Eyewear when you joined? How useful was your experience as Export Director in large companies?
INTERVIEW
R.D.R. Ana Hickmann, named after a well-known Brazilian model, TV presenter and blogger, is a good quality product, designed for both young and mature women, with a discreet yet contemporary elegance. The lines of this brand range from fullbodied models in acetate to the lightness of metal
I therefore asked her how she took action and what targets are still to be Isabellaachieved.Morpurgo
Headquarters and logistics are divided between Portugal and Italy. The central warehouse in Portugal will soon be mechanised and in Italy we plan to build a new building for the operational offices.
R.D.R Go Eyewear was founded in 2009 by Chinese entrepreneurs, and at that time it was a company that was looking for its own identity to differentiate itself on the international market. My experience, gained as Export Director in other companies, allowed me to identify where change was needed. First of all, ‘energy’ was lacking and the momentum in international markets needed to be intensified.
In 2021 we opened a showroom in Dubai and, before the outbreak of the Ukrainian-Russian war, we had just made the arrangements for the distribution of the Bravewear and Jo&Margot collections in Russia.
AH3259
Bravewear is a fashion project inspired by the new generations. The strong character of this brand wants to represent the wearer: emancipated, activist, eco-responsible.
- Titanium is twice as resistant as aluminum and, as a memory alloy, it will always return to its original form.
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Comfort, style and a love of outdoor activities are the motto of the Bulget brand. An easy-to-wear line with a contemporary design for the whole family. For children, we created Bulget Kids combining beauty, fun and high-quality materials to ensure comfort and safety, without forgetting design.
BIOCOMPATIBILITY - Titanium is non-toxic and hypoallergenic, resistant to corrosion and nonreactive, making it the most biocompatible among the metals.
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AH Titanium Capsule Collection
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Ana Hickmann Eyewear has recently presented its new Titanium Capsule Collection Titanium is highly appreciated by consumers due to its LIGHTNESSqualities:-Titanium is as strong as steel but 40% RESISTANCElighter.
in particular, the possibilities offered by titanium. Born from the creativity of Italian designers, it has recently seen a major expansion of its collections and the introduction of new trendy colours.
The Hickmann eyewear collection, a spin-off of Ana Hickmann, has sexy and feminine designs inspired by the fascinating world of Hickmann.
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JO&MARGOT MILANO, which is giving us good results, is the outcome of Italian design and production skills, it is in fact produced in Cadore and the warehouse is also in Italy.
The men’s T-charge collection has the appeal of timeless design and high quality.
The frame worn by the child must have a structure that helps him to look at the world correctly, i.e. from the bottom upwards, i.e. with a bridge placed more centrally so as to support a higher lens.
From materials and components, 100% of Italian origin, to punctual and scrupulous customer service. stileItaliano literally takes care of its customers, offering a product that meets the specific needs not only of the optician but above all of the end user. Since its foundation, stileItaliano eyewear has always had the visual comfort of children and teenagers at heart by offering them the most appropriate eyewear for their specific needs.
The anti-roll flex hinges also eliminate any vibrations from the glasses, guaranteeing maximum strength and stability as well as ease of use, a fundamental requirement for the most dynamic consumers, who often put the glasses on and take them off without paying much attention to movement.
TRUE MADE IN ITALY for the little ones
stileItaliano eyewear, synonymous with real Made in Italy, entirely conceived and crafted in Italy. But what does ‘real Made in Italy’ mean? What are the factors that enable us to appreciate the value of a product conceived and produced in Italy?
The philosophy of stileItaliano encapsulates the cornerstones of ‘doing it well and with care’, strictly in Italy, an indispensable element of the Italian manufacturing tradition and excellence.
eyewearstileItaliano
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The stileItaliano collection is made from various hypoallergenic materials, from Mazzucchelli acetate to nickel-free metal. Everything to give the customer a choice that is always optimal and studied down to the smallest detail, for every single collection and every single target.
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In fact, the KIDS & YOUNGS collections meet the ergonomic requirements of younger faces; all glasses are able to support corrective lenses of a given calibre and adapt to the pantoscopic angle, which is adjustable to 0° and can be adapted to old and new generation lenses.
leitalianoeyewear.comsti
Or just to add a touch of glamour to one’s look, as sunglasses are now an essential element in defining one’s style.
Satin-finished and polished metal is used for Ricordo, a model with maximum lightness for unparalleled comfort; gold, rosé, silver and ruthenium are the colours combined with special coloured lacquers on the front, to emphasise the gaze with incisive style. Acetate silently envelops the metal on the temple tips, playing with transparency and havane, giving the wearer a pleasant sensation of comfort.
The corrective function that the frame acquires, after the placement of the lens, must always be prioritised, and considering that this is a medical device, the quality of the components, the assembly and the final comfort are essential objectives for stileItaliano.
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Solid and robust frames, carefully crafted down to the smallest detail in both technological and conceptual terms, embrace the latest fashion trends and align themselves with the expectations and needs of young Alsopeople.for this autumn season, there will be no lack of variety in shapes, colours and materials in the stileItaliano collection.
With the same features are Genova, Asti and Como sunglasses for teenagers, with ZEISS lenses offered in four different shades and perfect for all occasions, from everyday life to pure leisure.
The key words for stileItaliano’s models are therefore freshness and versatility for every occasion, focusing first and foremost on all-Italian quality for the safety of the wearer.
The Pappagallo and Arlecchino collections surprise with their chromatic liveliness expressed in the colour combinations, obtained with the refined fusions between different acetates; the carefree character of these frames with their round or slightly squared design is perfect to give style and personality to even the smallest faces.
The second launch will offer six additional styles and will blast in October 2022. Maison’s signature codesfrom the iconic stud and V-Logo Signature, to the color palette that clearly yet subtly conveys the brand’s Haute Couture heritage.
mod VALENTINO XVI
Valentino VIII is a feminine combined titanium and acetate cat-eye shape that marries 50’s retro-cool with a distinctly modern flair for timeless style, lightweight comfort, and lasting quality. Featuring technically sophisticated design elements as iconic Valentino 3D rockstuds on the top and front of the bridge, progressive twisted temples, extruded stud temple tips and custom hinges. The style is available in heritage Valentino color combinations including black, clear brown and crystal bordeaux. VIII is the pièce de résistance for the graceful yet edgy modern-day femme fatale.
Maison Valentino launched a new chapter of the Valentino Eyewear with the first capsule collection released in July 2022. This has been the result of the exclusive agreement done in December 2021 with Switzerland-based Akoni Group
The first collection features three exclusive styles that embody the Valentino Couture approach by utilising the finest materials and a combination of time-honoured and cutting-edge production techniques. Three models named after the numbers of the historical Valentino headquarters, a homage to the Maison: Paris Place Vendome (VIII), Milan Turati (XVI), and finally Rome Mignanelli (XXII) where the heart of creativity with Pierpaolo Piccioli is.
mod VALENTINO VIII
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TALESNEWLAUNCHESVALENTINOTHEMASTERY
Meticulous attention, creative inspiration
Valentino eyewear collection conveys the values of the Maison and the mastery of couture. The culture of Couture and the rituals. Couture as a field where the processes remain traditional and unique but at the same time gives the possibility of experimentations. The new eyewear generation is 100% produced in the finest workshop in Japan, utilizing the highest quality materials and techniques.
Valentino XVI is an oversized 80’s inspired aviator shape and low base curve retro lenses with a fashion-forward presence. The style is the ultimate aviator with its iconic 3D Valentino rockstuds on the bridge, brow bar, temples, and temple tips completely made in Japanese titanium. Innovative design and construction technologies project the multi-color gradient sun lenses beyond the eye rim to enhance visual impact and highlight the complementary palette of sophisticated Valentino heritage color combinations.
Frankly speaking, that is not the case. Independent
The
Optician
No values no value
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – nr. 03 / 202250
with the real hope that they would help us not only get through the moment but improve future ones.
Franca Bochicchio Optician & DIECIDECIMI Glasstylist
Milano
During the pandemic, we all experienced wideranging reflections: personal, deep, true, often intimate, and digital enabled us to share them at a time when the barriers were down, to process them
Blogger glasstylist.com, founder of Radio Ottica
Observing the ugliness of life every day exacerbates even the strongest spirits, especially when we notice similar dynamics recurring in our industry: the voice of the strongest shouting, that of those who do not have the same power resonating smothered. Those who communicate speak reciting a script written elsewhere where their own opinions matter little, while the agreed-upon script counts.
and genuine things, words with substance, real references and sincere people, professionals who know how to make themselves useful. This is what we opticians, eyes on the real world of this industry, experience every day when a customer crosses the threshold of our little world. This is what is more valuable than any technological object, any precious artifact made more or less meticulously.
We do not seem to have become better but rather, if possible, we seem to have buried even the good intentions under the imaginary wreckage, along with the fear and difficulties we have gone through. Just look at what is happening in the blown world orders, in the increasingly heated fights for the power that have nothing to do with the communities welfare and safeguard, but are an expression of those who pursue only their own interests, those who are bond to castes and world lobbies. In a globalized world, loneliness has dangerously crossed us, brooding bitterness and desire for revenge at any cost.
The first and only chain to be sustained and safeguarded in the optical industry is the value chain. There is no supply chain without them; you cannot have a value chain if human values are missing. Value is not inherent in effective communication, in a good idea, in a valuable material, in an innovative design, in perfectly finetuned eyewear. Value lies in having the opportunity to be able to express ourselves and our work freely by bonding our choices to strong and ethical principles, in a world where the concepts of respect, trust, consistency, and fairness truly inhabit.
It may sound like just a nice speech for its own sake made up of nice words that leave time for itself. But we are opticians; we cannot be myopic. We have to be the first to ensure that we see straight to ensure clarity in our world, to really bring value, and actually be useful, to our customers as much as to our industry.
I recall a quote attributed to Sir Winston Churchill: “The trouble with our times consists in the fact that men do not want to be useful but important.” Testimonials, Influencers, fascinating marketing concepts, wonderful and engaging music and impactful images in promotional campaigns taste like nothing if we don’t hold on to a core foundation of essential principles and values. Now, as then, it really seems that we need simple
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Les Journées Particulières
Fondaco dei Tedeschi Photo by Delfino Sisto Legnani e Marco Cappelletti
14, 15 and 16 October 2022
A total of 57 Maisons will open their doors for free, in a total of 93 locations in 15 countries, on 14, 15 and 16 October In Italy, 19 locations will be opening to the general public in 7 different regions, including some new entries such as the Belmond hotels in Venice, Florence and Taormina, the Christian Dior shoe factory in Fossò in Veneto, the new Fendi Factory in Tuscany and the Fendi shoe factory in Porto San Giorgio in the Marche, and the Conceria Masoni in Santa Croce in Tuscany. In Lombardy, in Milan, the Pasticceria Cova, the Acqua di Parma boutique and the HQ of Loro Piana, which will host some of the maison’s artisans, will also participate.
The event has now become a must-attend event, which in its last edition in 2018 brought together over 180,000 people to discover the LVMH group’s various activities and Visitssavoir-faire.willbe by appointment only, for information https:// www.lesjourneesparticulieres.com/2022/
THE LVMH WORLD OPENS UP TO THE PUBLIC
Fondaco dei Tedeschi Photo by Matteo De Fina
Awaiting the 5th edition of the LVMH Group’s Journées Particulières by Isabella Morpurgo
Created by the LVMH Group in 2011 at the behest of Antoine Arnault - Director of Image and Environment - to give the public the opportunity to discover the extraordinary reservoir of craftsmanship and savoir-faire of its Maisons, Les Journées Particulières, now in its fifth year, is an unprecedented initiative that reflects LVMH’s pride in the craftsmanship excellence of its Maisons and pays tribute to the unique heritage of craftsmanship.
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The stops on the preview tour were: T Fondaco in Venice, Hotel Cipriani (also in Venice) of the Belmond Group, the Louis Vuitton shoe production hub in Fiesso d’Artico, the Christian Dior shoe factory (never before opened to the public) in Fossò and, for eyewear manufacturing, the futuristic Thélios production facility in Longarone.
Manufacture de Souliers Louis Vuitton – Fiesso d’Artico
Our day in Venice ended magnificently at the Hotel Cipriani - Belmond, located on the tip of the Giudecca island and overlooking St Marco Square and the Palazzo Ducale. Inaugurated in 1956, the hotel offers the only Olympic-size swimming pool in the centre of Venice, a Michelin-starred restaurant and an immense spa set in gardens through which even Casanova strolled.
that can only end in a special way, on the famous terrace on the fourth floor, which offers a unique view of the city.
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Our first visit was to Fondaco dei Tedeschi, DFS’s first flagship address in Europe, recently joined by Samaritaine in Paris. It occupies an ancient and fascinating building just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge: the historic Fontego dei Tedeschi, former symbol and nerve centre of trade between East and West since the 13th century. Inaugurated on 1
Manufacture de Souliers Louis Vuitton – Fiesso d’ArticoPriscilla, scultura di Joana Vasconcelos
October 2016, it offers a careful selection of products chosen from the most distinctive Made in Italy and international brands. The Fondaco dei Tedeschi is also an important cultural hub for the city of Venice, thanks to the important contemporary art exhibitions hosted and the packed calendar of events that animate the Pavilion on the fourth floor. Visitors will be able to discover the excellence represented by the people who every day illustrate the many products on sale to customers. A special itinerary
As editor-in-chief of VEDERE, I had the honour in July of an invitation from the LVMH Group to preview 5 of the 19 Italian locations that will open to the public in October for the Journées Particulières.
Hotel Cipriani Belmond
The next day our itinerary took us to Fiesso d’Artico, on the road between Padua and Venice, where we were welcomed by Louis Vuitton’s Manufacture de Souliers. The factory is a magnificent, modern showcase of all the knowledge of the art of shoemaking. And that’s not all: it is also a beautiful art gallery displaying exceptional creations by the Maison, eclectic works of art, including drawings dedicated to the universe of footwear by Andy Warhol and Yayoi Kusama, and even a library dedicated to footwear.
Thélios – Longarone
Christian Dior - Fossò
A few kilometres and we were able to explore the world of Christian Dior shoes at the shoe factory in Fossò, located just 34 km from Venice. Inaugurated in 2015, it now employs 170 people. Visitors in the Journées Particulières will have the incredible opportunity to explore the manufacturing plant where expert shoemakers elaborate the designs that characterise the Dior luxury footwear range: a chance to peek behind the scenes and discover the production processes that bring Dior creations to life.
Thélios – Longarone
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The last stop, the most important one for me, was in Longarone where, at the foot of the Dolomites, the beating heart of Thélios, LVMH’s eyewear specialist, opened its doors to us. Thanks to Thélios, LVMH is able to offer ‘made in Italy’ quality at every stage of production. Visiting the manufacture, visitors will discover how Thélios perfectly combines the great tradition of Italian craftsmanship and the most sophisticated technologies, in a state-of-the-art site that was expanded in 2020 to accompany the brand’s growth.
As far as I am concerned, it is perhaps the most beautiful production site in the industry that I have seen in my 30-plus years in eyewear.
A few months have passed since that fateful 27 June that brought us the death of Leonardo Del Vecchio, the founder of Luxottica.
CONTROVERSIAL. Everyone in the industry will now have their say (as I am doing, by the way). Those who idolised him, those who detested him and saw him responsible for every evil in eyewear, those who remained equidistant from the two positions, trying to ‘give to Caesar what is Caesar’s’. What is certain is that he was different, with an extra gear and a broader vision of the future, and with entrepreneurship in his blood, certainly not by inheritance. Raised at the Martinitt (the Milanese orphanage), like Angelo Rizzoli 40 and more years earlier, his story became a myth, books have been written and will be written about him. He may remain controversial but he will certainly not be forgotten.
PASSIONATE? He was a man of few words, almost reticent, but you don’t do what he did, you don’t have six children, the eldest of whom could almost be grandparents of the youngest, you don’t return to the helm of the company you founded at the age of 80 because you disagreed with the management you had chosen, if your life is not also driven by passion. ETHICS. Some will challenge me on this word, especially those who hold him responsible for all evil. I think that you don’t get to those levels if you are a a shy daisy, that in any ecosystem the big fish has always eaten the little fish, and the big fish doesn’t always do it out of calculation, out of sheer malice. However, I still remember more than 20 years ago, in Agordo for the celebrations of a Luxottica anniversary, I learned of many ‘charitable’ works carried out in the factory and in that town by Del Vecchio and when I asked the people in charge of communications why we journalists knew nothing about it, I was told that it was a direct order from the Cavaliere, he did not want publicity because of his choices outside of business. To me that is ethics. And I know that he has always continued to make such choices, just remember the decision, in pandemic, to cut his own emolument and that of the executives to compensate for what was cut from the unemployment fund. CHARM. He wasn’t tall and handsome but I think he had it in spades. The charm of intelligence and entrepreneurial courage. ABSENCE. His will be keenly felt. Beyond the future of his company, of CONDOLENCES.Essilux.Heartfelt and true. To the family, to the employees, to all those who mourn him now. The early years of VEDERE were also sustained by the advertising campaigns that Leonardo Del Vecchio entrusted to my father. I do not forget that.”
27 June 2022
SOME SEEM IMMORTAL
by Isabella Morpurgo
This is the first issue of our magazine to be published after the event, so it seems pointless to talk about what has happened since his death, who now leads the company, his legacy, his children, and many other news that has been covered in all the media, including the social media of VEDERE. However, I would like to publish the thoughts that sprang up spontaneously that day, to me, a small player in the industry for decades, who had had the opportunity to meet him.
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“AMAZED. I would say that is the exact word for how stunned and incredulous I was this morning upon hearing the news. It seemed impossible, a ‘hoax’ that would soon be Then,debunked.ofcourse, I had to change my mind and realised that he was a good 87 years old. Yet some people remain in the collective imagination as they were in their best years.
WE MET. I was asked if I knew him. No, I had met him several times in the prehistory of our industry, he knew who I was, he had a few words with me. My father had certainly known him well, SEE is from 1953, Luxottica from 1961, two strong characters who also bickered over the years, always with the utmost mutual respect. In the last 20 years there had been no opportunity for me to meet him. Luxottica, which at one time did not even have an in-house marketing manager, where advertising planning was handled directly with the Cavaliere, who was not yet such, has become something else, the one we all know today but different from the one of my memories.
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
Iconic British eyewear designers Kirk & Kirk, made famous by Robert Downey Jnr, has opened a colourful pop up shop in Shoreditch to celebrate London Design Festival. The iconic designer shop is part of the brand’s expansion and is a nod to the founder’s grandfather who started an optical business in London in 1919. There will be events at the pop up during September including a special vip event attended by celebrity clients including Alexis Nunes and Cameron Edwards.
Under the terms of the transaction, HOYA will receive an almost 61% equity stake with the founder of Jiangsu Sigo Optical retaining over 39% ownership interest. JSO will continue to operate and manage their manufacturing and distribution facilities in Danyang, China as a separate entity. The facility employs more than 450 team members.
Safilo Group and DOT Digital On Things - a consulting and IT services company specialising in the Salesforce ecosystem - have announced the creation of the Salesforce Academy “Digital Force”, aimed at finding and training new talents in digital transformation and Salesforce. Safilo will thus create a real internal Academy that will allow new profiles to be identified in the digital field, training them on the basis of the skills most in demand on the job market and on agile working methods.
Safilo has also recently joined The Fashion Pact, a coalition of leading global fashion and textile companies committed to a series of goals in three main areas: halting global warming, restoring biodiversity and protecting the oceans.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – nr. 03 / 202256 NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWSNEWSNEWS NEWS NEWS NEWSNEWS NEWS NEWSNEWS NEWS NEWSNEWS NEWS NEWS
HOYA Vision Care has entered into a strategic joint venture with Chinese eyeglass lens manufacturer Jiangsu Sigo Optical’s Founder and Chief Executive Officer Liu Jianzhong. The partnership will provide HOYA with access to a wider range of high-quality plastic and polycarbonate finished single vision lenses, enhancing the company’s existing lens portfolio and providing a more sustainable supply chain for customers.
Inside Palalumbithe
For the first edition of the project, Kering Eyewear is collaborating with Camilla Falsini, a young illustrator, muralist and multimedia artist from Rome, whose style combines vector drawing, digital collage and material interventions, characterised by an explosion of colours and an iconography that brings the research of the artistic avant-gardes of the 20th century into the contemporary world.
Kering Eyewear announced the launch of the “Kering Eyewear through their eyes” project: a series of collaborations with international artists, for the creation of creative concepts intended to reinterpret, through new languages and the contamination of different arts, the values of Kering Eyewear and its collections.
Camilla Falsini’s digital works will animate the stores, colouring the Digital Retail Concept, a retail environment designed by Kering Eyewear and enhanced by the power of digital.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – nr. 03 / 202258 NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWSNEWSNEWS NEWS NEWS NEWSNEWS NEWS NEWSNEWS NEWS NEWSNEWS NEWS NEWS
VSP Vision™ announced it has promoted Thomas Burkhardt to President of Marchon Eyewear, Inc. Burkhardt most recently served as Marchon’s chief marketing officer and senior vice president of global brands, marketing, and design. He will report to Earnie Franklin, chief operating officer of VSP Vision.
Burkhardt succeeds Nicola Zotta, who led Marchon from 2016 until May of 2022. Prior to joining Marchon, Burkhardt served as vice president of global marketing for Coty, Inc., leading the Calvin Klein fragrance and cosmetic license. He also held several senior marketing roles with Procter & Gamble in Germany, the UK, and Switzerland. Born in Germany, Burkhardt holds an MBA from the University of Cologne, served in the German Air Force and is multilingual. He currently serves on the board of directors for the Accessories Council.
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
In the next issue we will tell you about the details and results of this event. The invitation to the MEDD
“The 2022 edition promises to be an unrepeatable one,” Giovanni Vitaloni, President of DaTE, announced. “Not only because DaTE is 10 years old, an important milestone for an event that has grown and become accredited in the panorama of sector events, but also because this year we wanted to organise MEDD By DaTE, or Milano Eyewear Design Day, in Milan, a special, non-commercial event with a unique date of Monday 17 October. MEDD By DaTE, which in terms of format and content is completely different from the Florentine event, is open to everyone and dedicated not only to sector operators and the press but also to enthusiasts, designers, and students, to create a moment of exchange and reflection on design in its purest form, with a focus on eyewear, with guests and experts from various sectors. An opportunity not to be missed!”. The programme of the event in Milan will be enriched by award ceremonies and an exhibition on the glasses that have made history in the sector. During DaTE Florence, eyewear will then be selected to win the prize set up by the MEDD and which will be awarded on 17 October at the ADI Design Museum.
From Saturday 10 to Monday 12 September at the Leopolda in Florence, 100 companies from all over the world, totalling over 170 brands, exhibited their collections, whose lowest common denominator is creativity, at DaTE.
The event celebrated the main Italian fashion events, where culture is the meeting point of the different sectors involved.
Every year, DaTE is an unmissable opportunity for industry professionals to exchange and meet, an appointment to do business and close deals, an international reference point for those in search of inspiration, novelty and avant-garde.
The eyewear show
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EVENTS&FAIRS
DaTE 2022 in Florence dedicated to
By the time this issue of our magazine is published DaTE will have taken place.
avant-garde eyewear
By DaTE - Milan Eyewear Design Day - the special event that will take place on 17 October in Milan, Italy, remains valid.
Giovanni Vitaloni next to the work ‘Portrait of Paolo Morigia’ by Fede Galizia (1578-1630) at the #finallytogether event
DaTE was also the protagonist of another special event, dedicated to the press, on Wednesday 7 September at the Biblioteca Pinacoteca Accademia Ambrosiana in Milan: ‘L’arte di fare Moda’ (The Art of Making Fashion).
For the occasion, the 7 trade fair excellences involved in the #finallytogether project (DaTE, HOMI Fashion&Jewels, MICAM Milano, MIPEL, TheOneMilano, Lineapelle and SIMAC) emphasised the excellence of the entire supply chain, through 7 representative works capable of conveying the expression of the sector through art.
The aim is to enable, as always, trade operators to view the most modern proposals and offers on the Italian market, thus reaching their companies of reference in a short time and in an easy and favourable context!
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Participate first and foremost to meet again, to get to know the wide range on offer, to keep up to date, to develop a useful moment of aggregation, to feel fully part of the System and, why not, to enjoy the beauty of Taormina together with your loved ones too. The month of October reserves a still mild and temperate climate that beautifully highlights the colours and scents of a Territory that is a symbol of the Land of Sicily.
A rich programme of technical conferences and
Admission will be free of charge and reserved exclusively for trade operators and their companions and those in possession of an invitation ticket issued by the exhibiting company or the organisational secretariat.
Massimo Pennisi, President and Manager of the show said: “The new logo stems from the desire to give Eos Taormina an image that is even more characterised by the fair’s Mediterranean soul and even more embedded in the territory where it takes place. In order to give it an even more Mediterranean and Sicilian identity, we have been inspired by sinuous and balanced shapes that recall the gentleness of the landscape and enclose within them typical features of the artistic-craft tradition. The colours are inspired by the earth, art, architecture and the sea. The result is a logo that picks up on the baroque features of Sicilian art, reinterpreting them in a modern design’.
company presentations will characterise all three days of the event.
Eos Taormina recently presented the restyling of the brand, which is now steeped in Sicilianity, inspired by the colours, traditions and harmony typical of the Mediterranean.
The seventh edition of Expo Ottica Sud Taormina arrives in Italy
From 22 to 24 October 2022, the PalaLumbi Centre in Taormina (Sicily, Italy) will once again be the venue for EXPO OTTICA SUD, the meeting place for companies and professionals in the optics and optometry sector from southern Italy.
The new logo of the trade fair enhances its Mediterranean Soul
Expo Ottica Sud is the result of great teamwork that has started from afar, strengthening one step at a time. Thanks to the trust and passion of exhibitors and visitors, since the first edition, it has catalysed the attention of major companies, confirming the validity of the project at each appointment.
One of the special features of IOFT 2022 is the comeback of Korean exhibitors. Among them: Nanoecoway, Young Glass, Ky Cloth, Cma Global, H2c Design, Frank Custom.
Due to the easing of travel restrictions by the Japanese government, many of international designers are deciding to come back to IOFT. IOFT expands tide, the area for those designers. The list of the exhibitors includes: Knco (France), Jean Philippe Joly (France), Face à Face (France),
International visitors and exhibitors are expected to be back at this year’s iOFT. Even during the pandemic, IOFT has been successfully held in 2020 and 2021 as well. This year, it will be expected a large number of Japanese regional buyers to visit IOFT too. The Japanese show is now targeting 10,000 visitors and plans to invite 50 premium buyers from China, Taiwan, Korea, India, Middle East, Southeast Asia, Israel, etc. with supporting VISA for them.
Traction (France), J.F.Rey (France), Volte Face (France), Lafont (France), Prodesign (Denmark), Opticalia Global Holding (Spain), Ioves (Italy), Tonysame (Japan/Hong Kong).
The Japan Eyewear Award is one of the industry’s foremost awards given to the best designed/ technological new products to be marketed in Japan or any other country after July 1st, 2022. The judging and screening will be conducted by Japan Eyewear Award committee. Grand Prix will be announced at the Award Ceremony on the first day of the show.
IOFT 2022 International Optical Fair Tokyo
The Opening Ceremony with ribbon cutting of IOFT 2022 will take place at 9.30 am on 18th Oct, at the VIP Lounge (inside show venue). Leaders from major retailers, wholesalers, association members, and buyers of the eyewear industry will express full support to IOFT.
“tide” -The IOFT International Designers
RX Japan Ltd. and Fukui Optical Association present the 35th edition of the International Optical Fair Tokyo (iOFT). The event will be held on October 18-20, 2022 at Tokyo Big Sight in Japan. It is the leading optical trade fair in this area of the world gathering the latest eyewear and related products.
230 exhibitors from all over the world will gather in Tokyo.
The 2022 show will also have a more international flavor with the return of the French pavilion since 2019. Organised by French Optical Industry Association (GIFO), among the companies showcasing their cutting-edge products/designs we will find ACEP, Mauboussin Eyewear, Minima, OXIBIS and Structur Eyewear.
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CircumEye#4
The new design marks the start of a new era for the Greek Optical Show
“Hello Athens, hello future,” says CircumEye#4 with its brand-new slogan and visual appearance, which has been completely redesigned for the expo’s debut, November 19 & 20, 2022, at its new location.
The new content, visuals and communication reflect the move, and combine the familiar and traditional trade fair with the fresh direction taken by the leading eyewear business show in its new
home on the “Peace & Friendship Stadium”, that has a unique easy access from all parts of the city. With new concept that goes far beyond a classic trade show, CircumEye inspires, designs, guides and interconnects the eyewear and future eyewear industry in Greece and East Mediterranean –inviting, engaging, and trendsetting. The new key visual represents this optimistic move into a new age of future eyewear.
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The next edition has been postponed to January 2023
The results of the 22nd Hong Kong Eyewear Design Competition will be announced shortly before the Fair.
Hong KongOpticalInternationalFair
63VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – nr. 03 / 2022 EVENTS&FAIRS
Considering the current pandemic situation, and following consultation with industry representatives and key stakeholders, a decision has been made to reschedule the HKTDC Hong Kong International Optical Fair from 9-11 November 2022 to 9-11 January 2023. The event will be held alongside the HKTDC Hong Kong Toys & Games Fair, HKTDC Hong Kong Baby Products Fair and Hong Kong International Stationery Fair at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Meanwhile, the 20th Hong Kong International Optometric Symposium will be held as scheduled on 10 November 2022, in both physical and online formats.
Editorial
Isabella Morpurgo – isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
Publishing Director
Gloria Della Ciana – marketing@vedere.it
Manlio Valli – communication@vedere.it Layout
Enrico Alvarez – graphic@vedere.it
• The journal publishes articles and releases from individual authors or firms. Publishing this material does not involve the journal’s opinion or liability. Autorizzazione Tribunale di Milano del 23-03-1991 N. 221 Associata a A.N.E.S. Associazione EditoriaNazionalePeriodica Specializzata • Reproduction without written express authorization of the publisher is STAMPA:prohibited.TECNOGRAFICA Via degli Artigiani, 4, 22074 Lomazzo CO The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear Vedere International nr. 03 / 2022 3MOMI p 4 ANA HICKMANN/GO EYEWEAR p 2 BLUNAVA p 43 CIRCUMEYE#4 p 35 CLARISCIENCE p 41 CTI cover III DIVEL ITALIA p 19 EPOS p 9 EXPO OTTICA SUD p 57 INVU/SWISS EYEWEAR GROUP p 17 MARCOLIN p 15 MIDO p 22/23 MIYOSMART/HOYA p 13 OMISAN FARMACEUTICI Cover II SILMO 2022 Cover IV STILEITALIANO EYEWEAR p 47 THELIOS p 11 YUNIKU/HOYA p 1 ADVERTISERS THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE ON OPTICS AND EYEWEAR 20223nr. INTERVIEWS WITH THOMAS BURKHARDT AND RAFFAELLA DA RIZ THE SPECIALISTEYEWEAR SPECIAL SILMO PARIS 2022 THE POINT OF VIEW OF THE OPTICIANINDEPENDENT
Rita Ferraro – ritaferraro@vedere.it Staff
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