Edizioni Ariminum Srl - Via Negroli, 51/A - 20133 Milan - Italy
INTERVIEWS
ON STAGE
SILMO HORS LES MURS
The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2020
TARGETED SOLUTIONS EYES AND CONTACT LENSES
The 70’s are back! Confirming the trend of supersize frames, Ana Hickmann Eyewear has created a whole collection keeping the 70’s as a reference. features in this new collection. The key design this season is a revival of oversized frames and sunglasses, with geometrical shapes full of the 70’s swagger with an approach to the modern day, without losing the brand essence which keeps reinventing classic shapes to create to-day’s elegante and charming looks.
Duo-Fashion
AH1417
AH6422
Rich with squared retro shapes, that dominated the catwalks this season, the collection brings out all the glitter, shape and forms of the golden age of the 70’s. With a fresh combination of colours, combining opaque greens and reds with crystals, Ana Hickmann Eyewear surprises once again with the rich colour pallet that
GO EYEWEAR ITALY SRL. - Via dell’Industria 8 - z.i. Paludi 32016 ALPAGO (BL) ITALY | Tel.: +39 041 504 0934 | diane.kindlimann@goeyeweargroup.com
Fashion Trends Industry New Products Marketing & Economy VEDERE International May - September 2020 Publishing Director: Isabella Morpurgo
SUMMARY 3
EDITORIAL 5
INTERVIEW JERRY DREIFUSS
6
INTERVIEW ANTONELLA TISSINO
16
ON STAGE
19
DANIELE ROCCHI
28
INTERVIEW
NEWS 34
FAIRS 37
Opt i2 Pad 020 : Stan C6 d:C 6.51 1
The revolution in centering determines with certainty the natural posture of the client to always detect the correct centering of the progressive.
NATURAL posture The customer will have no difficulty with his new progressive eyewear
UNNATURAL posture. The heights that will be detected will be incorrect: The customer will have difficulty with the progressive eyewear from a distance or from near.
is a device patented by TutorNET Srl, designed and built entirely in Italy TutorNET Srl - Industrial Park, strada statale 24 - km 16,2 Alpignano 10091 (TO) Infonline: +39.011.0465430 r.a. - www.tutornet.it - commerciale@tutornet.it
THE EMOTION OF MEETING AGAIN Never would I have thought that after 40 years since my first optical and eyewear show, the idea of returning to the aisles of an industry event would arouse such a load of emotion and, let’s admit it, joy. This was really the mood with which I visited DaTE, the Florence showcase of design and research in the eyewear field, which bravely opened its doors even if in such a difficult moment. Obviously it was a different edition from the ones we were used to, but it showed how much the desire to “restart” is among both exhibitors and visitors. We’re not out of it yet, that’s for sure, Covid-19 is still breathing down our necks and forcing new behaviors and lack of close contact. The economic consequences of all this are really starting to be felt even though, and I don’t want to be too optimistic, I haven’t heard as many negative opinions and announcements of tragic results as I expected. Sunglasses collections certainly suffer more than ophthalmic lenses, opticians have many requests to change lenses and fewer to purchase new framesWe will never get back the two months we lost, and everyone in his or her profession has had to make choices, take new roads in a hurry, and look for solutions never dared before. But everything can also bring positive changes or interesting proposals. In the sector I see the birth of many initiatives, regardless of their success or otherwise, they are still new blood that only time will tell if they are valid or not. The situation gave us the boost we may need, and although we would have preferred to do it for a different reason, we each have to find our new path.
Isabella Morpurgo Publisher VEDERE International isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
INTERVIEW WITH JERRY DREIFUSS
INVU BY SWISS EYEWEAR GROUP From Start-up to Key Player in the Polarized Sunglass Market INVU, the innovative global sunglass brand by Swiss Eyewear Group, is moving into its seventh season! Created by five former Polaroid Eyewear managers in 2013, INVU is now distributed in over 95 markets and showcased in over 20’000 retailers worldwide. Vedere International spoke with Jerry Dreifuss, CEO of Swiss Eyewear Group to find out more about the company and its strategy: What motivated you and your colleagues to start a new company after Polaroid Eyewear was sold to Safilo? Pre Safilo acquisition, we worked in a customer focused environment with flat hierarchies, an open door policy, fast decision making and little internal politics. Coming from such an entrepreneurial environment made it very difficult for my colleagues and me to adapt to being part of a corporate “giant”. What were the key challenges that you faced during the start-up phase? A challenge but also the most exciting part of a start-up is that you start with a 100% blank sheet of paper. It is a once in a lifetime opportunity to do things right from the start. Total freedom to define everything without any old baggage. You determine the company’s philosophy, vision and mission along with the legal and shareholder structures. You also design the branding, marketing strategy, product portfolio and go to market strategy. It is an unbelievably rewarding feeling to develop and implement everything. But to come
6
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
back to your question about the challenges - no doubt this was also the financing part. Most start-up companies fail not because of profitability but because of cash flow. Given the seasonality of the eyewear business and the inherently long payment terms in the industry, having sufficient cash to make it through the start-up phase until our company reached critical mass was our highest priority. Luckily, we could rely on our highly supportive investor base as well as Credit Suisse who has been a fantastic
banking partner during this period and beyond. What makes Swiss Eyewear Group unique? One of our key success factors is our shareholder structure, which we believe is very unique. Our stakeholders are all experts in the eyewear industry and include the company founders, key employees, distribution partners and supply chain partners. Furthermore, we have created a working environment with flat hierarchies, open doors and empowered employees. Everyone leaves their ego at the door and everything we do is focused on the customers. While we are very serious about what we do, we also like to have fun and we do not take ourselves too seriously. Last but not least the INVU products and the brand positioning are very unique. What is the product and positioning strategy of INVU? Our key positioning strategy with INVU is to offer the best value for both retailers and consumers in everything we do. Unlike some of the big fashion labels who are sending excessive royalty checks to the brand owners, Swiss Eyewear Group is instead investing in the best materials and latest lens technologies to ensure that customers
can enjoy the latest technological advances at a fair price. What concretely does that mean for your current portfolio? Our portfolio currently features three different lens technologies. Our INVU core lines that are retailed between Euro 50 and Euro 80 are using our proprietary ultrapolarized nine layer optical triacetate lens. In the retail area of Euro 80 – Euro 100 we are using our state-of-the-art injection molded polycarbonate lens. These lenses that have a Japanese polarizer and PC material. The polycarbonate lens also has a premium hard coat and is equipped with a 10 layer anti-reflective coating. Thirdly, our Rolls-Royce is the recently launched INVU ultra polarized glass collection that retails at Euro 100 – 140. Besides the precision French glass wafers that offer unmatched clarity,
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
7
INTERVIEW WITH JERRY DREIFUSS the INVU glass lens has additional bells and whistles such as a Hydrophobic coating, an Optical AR coating, proprietary edge sealing and of course a collection crafted in high end acetate. Explain the design process of the INVU portfolio. At our global headquarters in Zürich, Switzerland we have a team of designers who manage the entire process. This includes designing our sunglasses from the initial sketch all the way through to the technical drawings. All product specifications, engineering requirements, prototype reviews and the release of the molding process are also done in Zürich. For the actual production we are working with a group of hand selected certified partner factories. Quality control throughout the
8
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
entire production process is performed by our own on-site quality inspectors. Excellent product quality and performance are key to our success. How important is innovation for INVU? Do you have examples? Innovation is extremely important for Swiss Eyewear Group. We split the innovation process into two main areas, product innovation and marketing innovation. On the product side we are consistently at the pulse of the latest lens and material developments. A few examples are the recently launched self-healing Nano coated lenses that cure surface scratches, blue light absorbing lenses and ultra flexible, high tensile Swiss materials as well as eco-friendly frame materials. On the marketing side we are the absolute
E
Y
E
W
E
alkimiaeyewear.com
A R
INTERVIEW WITH JERRY DREIFUSS
leader in supplying the optical community with innovative point of sale materials to explain the benefits of our ultra polarized lenses to consumers. This year we have launched INVU’s unique magic mirror technology. The magic mirror integrates the latest LCD technology into an elegant, highend glass mirror. The result - a stunning polarized mirror display that enables consumers to experience the true magic of ultra polarized lenses while trying on their favorite INVU sunglasses. Last but not least on the digital side we are currently launching a web shop that allows consumers to create their own personal, customized pair of Made in Switzerland sunglasses. What are the novelties for 2021? Besides our brand new 2021 collections and the revolutionary magic mirror technology, we are launching our new Optical Frame + Clip collection. Polarization is our DNA and the launch of an optical frame collection with a magnetic ultra polarized clip-on is a natural evolution of our portfolio. Today’s advanced materials such as Ultem and Swiss TR 90 combined with the comfort of the magnetic attaching system makes this product a perfect additional sale to a prescription frame or a prescription sunglass frame. We are seeing a strong revival of this type of product and the first feedback from our customers is extremely encouraging. How are INVU and Swiss Eyewear Group performing six years after the start and how would you describe your experience
10
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
with Swiss Eyewear Group? The experience, in one word, has been and continues to be amazing! For the founders of Swiss Eyewear Group and the entire team, a dream has become reality. On the financial side, after the 2nd year we hit break-even and every year thereafter we have been profitably growing by double digits. In the meantime, we have a very diverse employee base with over 60 people representing more than 12 nationalities and offices in eight different countries.
SUSTAINABLE EYEWEAR IN MARCOLIN GROUP Marcolin Group, among the worldwide leading companies in the eyewear industry, stands out for the pursuit of excellence, continuous innovation and experimentation as well as a unique ability to faithfully combine design and Italian craftsmanship with the core values of each brand. The values that shape the company’s operating methods include openness towards change and responsibility, both reflected in the sustainable products resulting from constant research and improvement of production processes in order to use resources efficiently, in terms of water and energy consumption. This conscious approach to designing sustainable eyewear is the expression of the company’s ethical culture, especially for those brands sustainability is at the heart of their mission.
BARTON PERREIRA Since inception, Barton Perreira has been committed to crafting eyewear using the highest quality materials, derived without harmful chemicals. This includes using plant-based acetates, with cellulose obtained from wood and cotton, for an environmentally friendly resin. Barton Perreira is proud to stand against fast-fashion and the waste it creates. Their timeless eyewear is intended to be worn season after season, ensuring a lifetime of use. Looking ahead, Barton Perreira is driven to expand on their sustainable initiatives. In an effort to reduce the brand’s carbon footprint, Barton Perreira will deepen its commitment to the environment, by providing consumers with cleaning cloths and shopping bags made of recycled PET bottles.
TIMBERLAND EYEWEAR Back in 2011, Timberland launched the first Earthkeepers® Eyewear collection. Earthkeepers® is the philosophy that guides the brand and that pervades most of the latest frames. Designed with the environment in mind and with a focus on the responsible use of materials, the new eyewear is constructed of 35% bio-based plastic material or more. The brand’s iconic and recognizable signature elements, such as the logo, rubber detailing and polarized lenses with anti-reflective coating, define the styles of the sunglass and optical collection. TB9235 A sporty round sunglass with a contemporary attitude defined by an injection-molded front and polarized lenses with anti-reflective coating that effectively block glare. The style, which contains at least 35% bio-based plastic material, belongs to the Earthkeepers® line. The temples are made from a fine mix of metal and rubber, for a perfect grip, and are personalized by the Timberland double logo both on the tips and on the perforated metal insert.
GANT EYEWEAR To celebrate the heritage of being a bio-based business, the brand continues to source traceable and sustainable plant-based materials globally. The brand continues to educate themselves and act on their ethical, environmental and social responsibilities. They believe this conscious, sustainable approach to designing beautiful products is the future of good business. As part of their commitment to this sustainable approach, they are launching the innovative r-PET eyewear line. GANT R-Pet eyewear frames are made from 85% r-PET plastic, the equivalent of five recycled bottles per frame. FW2020 GANT Eyewear. The sunglasses worn are the feminine GA8082 and the masculine GA7202 styles.
BP0109 - DOMINO Felliniesque inspiration and sterling construction impart a timeless sense of heritage and adventure. Masterfully designed in signature acetate finishes with handcrafted bevelling, sculpted for balance and precision. Available in both optical and sun.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
11
The Independent Optician
Required visions
12
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
Franca Bochicchio Ottica & Glasstylist ® DIECIDECIMI ® – Milano Blogger glasstylist.com, founder of Radio Ottica
Showroom Moscot and Andy Wolf - Bosco Verticale Milano
The great awareness that a lot has changed since a year ago and the need to deal with new demanding safety rules, has brought news that respond to the desire to implement projects and reflections developed in the lockdown, i.e. all the new ideas on how to continue to work preserving the road travelled and directing the future one maybe improving it. Since the beginning of September, private showrooms organized by independent brands have been taking place every weekend in various Italian cities from north to south, inviting opticians to rediscover the pleasure of looking at and touching products, selecting them and, why not, finding in this obvious and now almost revolutionary act, the energy needed to face the period ahead. Their formula is
Seven months after the beginning of the new
world in which we are all facing many difficulties, we can say with good reason that we have never really stopped. The determination and stubbornness of all of us to react to such an anomalous situation has filled and will continue to fill pages of newspapers, journals and many books in every discipline for a long time to come, right up to those of history that will transmit this peculiar period to posterity. The more time goes by, the more I am convinced that what allowed our legs to stop and gave us the strength to put our lives on stand-by was precisely the frantic rush of our thoughts and reflections that spontaneously and incessantly probed every possible solution, every alternative road to the obligatory one that opened up in front of us, throwing light even on those that had not yet been attempted. This is the feeling I felt at the beginning of an atypical September everywhere. September has in fact always been the real New Year’s Eve also in the optical sector: everything always started again from this moment of the year when time was marked by the frenetic rhythm both in the shops as a reflection of the new year that was beginning, and in the sector with the big fairs, meetings, conventions and wide-ranging canonical appointments.
Showroom Moscot and Andy Wolf - Bosco Verticale Milano
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
13
Franca
fresh, quick and effective and they are exactly the children of this moment to which they brilliantly respond with their main aim of not stopping and not giving up by focusing on spaces that allow them to communicate their identity to the whole world and safely accommodate a number of people appropriate to the times. The idea is not to deprive oneself of the possibility to describe the product and its novelties, to listen to the opticians and their new needs, to confront each other, to believe in them together, to smile under the masks and to look at each other in the eyes in order to have confirmations that they still have the same objectives as before and maybe even the same tenacity in pursuing them. Small realities that have also thrown their hearts over the obstacle, testifying with their plurality the great determination of this sector not to give up by choosing to move not in a tradi-
14
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
tional way but with their timing, their steps and their rhythms. I had the desire to go and live these initiatives, to touch the palpable desire to start over and hear from the voice of those who arrived at these alternative solutions, which have nothing approximate, the enthusiasm for a new beginning. September is not orphaned of a big event....at least in Italy! In Florence on 19-20-21 September will be again DaTE, a great act of courage that will reopen the doors to as many daredevils in the sector who will meet to discover the novelties of avant-garde eyewear and restart engines in the sector both nationally and internationally. Do you remember the chessboard by Ferdinand De Saussure, the linguist I mentioned
a few articles ago (it was actually September last year...) who was so successful? The chess game to which he had compared the language allowed him to explain and understand its changes because it assimilated it to a system that changes because the change of a single element (the move of a checkmate) changes the whole system. Well, here all the schemes are blown! Chess moved not one at a time but all at once. Now we define the ambitious task for those who have wider views and greater possibilities of aggregation to identify an even newer, even more avant-garde road and pursue it by still joining the forces of those who Enjoy Eyewear Again event in Polpenazze del Garda
have never given up as soon as we are out of this tunnel. For the time being, we capture beauty where it expresses itself and try to draw energy from the passion that moves all things in this world where a broad “vision” must always be found.
Showrook Faoflex a Padova Franca with Fabio Stramare
Enjoy Eyewear Again event in Polpenazze del Garda
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
15
INTERVIEW WITH ANTONELLA TISSINO 16
A NICE STORY For over 40 years Ziel has been a wellknown name in our sector for its activity in the field of technical instrumentation and, in particular, with regard to the marketing of barometers, thermometers, binoculars, microscopes and telescopes. Ziel was the first to introduce on the Italian market, as from 1994, the American Avocet wrist computers. The marketing agreement
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
for the products of the Finnish company Suunto dates back to 1996 and in 2006 the collaboration with the Italian Alpine Club was born. Over the years, binoculars have become the flagship product, including those with the Italian Alpine Club brand and the company is also beginning to operate in the field of frames with its own collections with classical
lines at a reasonable cost, suitable for a wide range of consumers. In 2018, the founders of the company, Baggiani, decided to retire and the future of the company is in danger. This, however, is a story with a happy ending that comes from an historical employee of the company, Antonella Tissino to whom, on the occasion of their first participation at DaTe in Florence, we asked to tell us how everything happened. What led you to take over Ziel? I had been working for the company since 1988, for 30 years, so I had lived the business closely and I had developed a passion for it; when the owners expressed their willingness to retire, I was well acquainted with the true value of Ziel, together with the brand development possibilities which had not yet been fully exploited. The business closure therefore seemed absurd to me. As a result, I made this important decision and together with my partner (and son) Marco Masat, we took the business over. The new Ziel was born on December 13, 2018. What were the first moves and what does the future hold for you? The new Ziel obviously continued to deal with the instrumentation, always paying close attention to the quality offered. We are also expanding the offer in the frame field, with collections in line with the current trends, there being an excellent balance
between quality, solidity and price, which has been obtained thanks to the technical ability and know-how in design acquired over the years. Consistent with these requirements, we have created a new collection, Alkimia, the result of the union of Italian design with research in the field of materials, allowing us to offer light and flexible models which, at the same time, guarantee high resistance to shock. Tell us about the collaboration with the Italian Alpine Club. The ten-year collaboration with the Italian Alpine Club has further developed and expanded into a line of sunglasses, together with glasses for vision and sports, with technical and design characteristics linked to the history of the CAI (Italian Alpine Club). The new CAI Sun & Style and CAI Vista & Style collections were born, designed,
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
17
INTERVIEW WITH ANTONELLA TISSINO 18
developed and produced in Italy, combining the legacy of the mountains with city life. Ziel’s know-how has also been converted into the innovative IR-proof lenses adopted for the line of sports glasses, approved by the Italian Alpine Club. With this cutting-edge technology, we have achieved the maximum eye protection from dangerous radiation given that, in addition to absorbing UV rays, they also protect against infrared rays. You are now in the launch phase of the Smartee line, tell us about it What you wear can really affect your mood and vice versa. For this we have created Smartee. A new concept of reading glasses, a stylish accessory that you can renew every day by combining temples and fronts with different shapes and colors. With Smartee you can always wear something different and appropriate with respect to your look and mood. An exclusive patent makes them easy to assemble and disassemble, without
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
sacrificing practicality, lightness and impact resistance. Specially made in a material that comes from Ziel’s technological know-how, all models are non-toxic, hypoallergenic, resistant and flexible. From today it is no longer necessary to always buy something new to renew your look ... Just follow instinct, desire and imagination to always find new combinations of shapes and colors and express a different and original style every day.
ON STAGE
Dutz Eyewear Looking ahead in times of uncertainty is not easy. Nostalgia makes us feel safe. Back to black is also a way to deal of dealing with these challenging times but the seemingly unanimous vision of many designers for fall 2020 is that everyone wants to have fun with clothes and accessories again. Whether it’s cheerful colors, festive textures or items reminiscent of childhood (like bows and tulle dresses), it looks like our wardrobes and attitude will take an optimistic turn this fall. At Dutz Eyewear they are also optimistic. They see fashion as a way of self-expression and therefore hope. This year, the colors of their collections seem to come straight from a paint box. Pantone Amberglow, for example: “Radiant, exuberant autumn orange hues that promote confidence and creative self-expression,” according to Pantone. And GREEN SHEEN, a bold acid yellow-green shade that will always stand out and exudes a natural freshness, although not directly associated with the winter season.
Dsquared2 Dsquared2 presents the first kids’ collection, for children from 8 to 11 years old, revisiting iconic models from the main collection. In the sun category we find a classic female cat-eye and a more squared male model, both made of black acetate. The optical frames are characterised by a mix of pop and havana shades combined with black temples as in the masculine DQ5342 model with a squared retro acetate silhouette. The iconic plate with the “D2” detail is on the temple end-piece.
mod DQ5342
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
19
fashion victims FEDON For the “fashion victims” autumn becomes glamorous thanks to the small Fedon clutch bag in iridescent glitter green and purple material, with havana accessory handle, to carry glasses, keys and more. For the more sporty, here is the Fedon wearable eyewear case in ecru canvas and coloured leather with card and phone holder insert, perfect for storing and protecting glasses and essentials during sports, leisure and travel.
ON STAGE
Ana Hickmann The keyword of the new Ana Hickmann collection, presented by GO Eyewear Group, is the rediscovery of oversized eyewear and sunglasses, with geometric shapes inspired by the excesses of the 1970s but with a contemporary approach and without forgetting the essence of the brand. The collection enhances glitter with a fresh combination of colours, combining opaque greens and reds with crystals.
20
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
INVU SPORT COLLECTION INVU Sports Collection 2020 is the right protective solution for all fans of sports and outdoor activities. The new collection also boasts nine models in Megol, a new generation material, ultra-flexible, soft and unbreakable. The ultra-polarized lenses, made with Swiss Eyewear Group’s thermo-fusion technology, guarantee a high level of visual protection, free from glare, needed to safely perform various activities. Thanks to the optical clip, the A2013 model can also be fitted with prescription lenses.
mod A2013
ON STAGE
neubau eyewear David
For anyone who follows the latest trends, it is not only style that plays an important role these days, but also sustainability. With the first 100% bio-based line of optical frames, neubau eyewear is launching its material innovation natural3D, which gives spectacle wearers the option to combine their love of trends with sustainable awareness. And now with natural3D, for the first time it is also possible to use an entirely natural material in the 3D printer. Forming the basis of the innovative material is an oil extracted from the seeds of the castor oil plant. The latest four optical frames Greta, Erin, Bill and David have been named after well-known environmental activists. Their 3D temples have an integrated titanium needle, which allows the glasses to be easily adjusted in just a few steps. Greta
Diesel Eyewear DL0337 by Diesel Eyewear. A limited edition with a rock soul, a statement piece made of an interesting mix of metal and injected that gives character and dynamism to the glasses. A contemporary take on the timeless pilot shape personalized with interesting cut-outs between the structure and the lens. The very thin metal temples are enriched with injected terminals that reflect the colors of the front. A shape that recalls the industrial Diesel world for a futuristic and unique look.
22
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
ON STAGE
Maya and Matt
AM Eyewear AM Eyewear returns with an elevated perspective in their 2021 collection ‘FRESH’, drawing inspiration from the heavens, grounded in a collection of new crystal frames with refreshing hues from soft khaki dusk to sophisticated blue sky. Designed through a year when many sheltered in place, looking to the sky for answers, AM Eyewear’s founder Simon Ponnusamy found his own answers above the horizon of Sydney’s Opera House, Harbour Bridge and iconic harbour - the breathtaking colour gradient that flooded throughout each day, morning to night. This season’s frames pay homage to iconic styles from the 50’s to the 2000’s with modern updates including the distinct double laminate crystal temples, blending opal effect acetates with crystal hues.
ON STAGE
Lunor Come fly with me – the new collection M14 by Lunor is a display of longing, the desire to travel, and wanderlust. It gets its inspiration from the shape of the aviator goggles out of which the Lunor designers created completely new edgy models. The frame reflects the two poles of the desire to travel and outlasting a time characterized by travel interruptions. M14 is available in four different shapes in the colors antique gold, antique silver and satin rose gold. The designers also deliberately opted for using titanium, the aeronautic material, whereby the M14 is a real lightweight.
24
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
LAMARCA Tris Ottica’s Lamarca® brand was born in 2014 and at the center of its design criteria comes first visual comfort then aesthetics, which appears original and often daring but never screamed or excessive. Distinctive the use of color that becomes the protagonist of exclusivity with original and “sentimentally” Italian combinations, a note that makes them appreciated all over the world. Profili is a graphic and bold collection, obtained through complex bonding. The full and emphasized colors express a design concept that alludes to overlapping of different shapes and empty spaces, represented by transparent parts.
ON STAGE
Reflect Eyewear
mod AF13
Reflect Eyewear was founded in London in 2018 by Andrea Pisano and international house Dj Francesco del Garda. Andrea grew up in his family-run sunglasses lab near Varese, in northern Italy and he soon developed a passion for designing frames. When he moved to Ibiza first and then London, Andrea discovered and become passionate about the underground club scene and its distinctive apparel. Soon afterwards, followed his first forays into fashion. As a result of these experiences, Andrea decided to create an eyewear brand with Francesco. The Metropolis Collection is strongly influenced by the lifestyle in big cities and London in particular, where the weather is unpredictable and the underground widely used. In response to these quickly changing light conditions, the sunglasses in the Metropolis collection feature clear 24hr lenses or two-toned lenses with a dark upper and a clear bottom.
mod AF8
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
25
ON STAGE
Davette’s Lunettes Davette’s Lunettes, a vintage inspired eyewear creative brand, has introduced the first international collaboration with iconic eyewear Casanova Occhiali and its brand TAXI. First introduced in the late 80’s era of avant garde movement and originally labeled the “ZETA”, this eyewear style has been re-designed with improved bridge fit and slightly modified temple design for easier adjustment. ZETA is available in translucent red front, torts shell front and opaque black front, with a variable selection of temples to obtain, for example, red front with torts temples. Ten optional color complete the collection, all limited editions.
mod MELI MELO
The new Zeta model
Tarian Meli Melo is a hybrid crossing of elements in different natures. In the world of design and architecture, this word particularly resonates this fall. In the new Tarian collection steel works in shiny or brushed finishes, and bi-colour inlays. Through a play of lines inspired by architecture and construction principles, the Horizon collection is created by superimposing volume. Fifty years after the first step on the moon – The Space Age – an ephemeral trend of the late sixties – is the starting point of this collection. With oval shapes, plump structures and vigorous colours, Space and Sky Bar sunglasses bring a retro-futuristic aesthetic that breaks with the present.
26
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
Come fly with me – the new collection M14 by Lunor is a display of longing, the desire to travel, and wanderlust. It gets its inspiration from the shape of the aviator goggles out of which the Lunor designers created completely new edgy models. The frame reflects the two poles of the desire to travel and outlasting a time characterized by travel interruptions. M14 is available in four different shapes in the colors antique gold, antique silver and satin rose gold. The designers also deliberately opted for using titanium, the aeronautic material, whereby the M14 is a real lightweight.
Omas Design
Lunor
ON STAGE
Elegance and refinement intertwine in the new eyewear and sunglasses collections by Omas Design. In the line of geometric sunglasses carvings recall the Bohemian glassmaking art, as chiseled in the colored live shaped lenses. In some women’s models we find a rare and sophisticated effect, obtained thanks to a special processing of the rod in which is inserted a tubular element studded with rhinestones. The use of gold and palladium is an expression of the preciousness that has always distinguished OMAS products, strictly Made in Italy.
mod Bianca
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
27
INTERVIEW WITH DANIELE ROCCHI
THE SECRETS OF SHOP DESIGN
For almost 40 years, Arteco Srl, born in 1981, has been creating custom-made furnishings for optical shops, both in Italy and abroad. To better understand how the company has evolved and how the requests of clients have changed over the decades, we interviewed Daniele Rocchi, Vice President and Member of the company. Q. Your activity is based on the synergy between design, research and
28
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
craftsmanship. You must interpret the wishes and needs of the clients, be able to advise them and guide them in their choices and then seek and find the best solutions from a technical - aesthetic point of view. Without forgetting the collaboration with architecture firms and designers. As in fashion, there are also “trends” and new materials in furnishings. We have gone from the use of marble in the 1980s,
appreciate the collections on display and to choose his/her own glasses, supported by professional advice from the optician; atmospheres , styles, as well as materials and accessories, are proposed to our clients each time through detailed designs and real samples, often created specifically for the single project. The shop must be studied according to the client’s requests: for this reason, since 1981 Arteco has only offered customized projects, produced in competitive times. For 2021 there is a great return of stones and essences, processed with rough surfaces, almost coarse and often combined with acrylic materials and fabrics. Great importance is always given to the lighting study and to the choice of furnishing accessories, often proposed with the aim of creating strong contrasts. to brushed stainless steel in the following decade, to crystals in the new millennium and finally to methacrylates and polished propylene as from 2010. The concept itself of the shop in our sector has also changed and the arrival of new technologies has led to new solutions. What do you think is the “ideal” shop today? What are your proposals for 2021? Today’s shop can no longer be designed as in the past, where its image remained unchanged for years. The shop today must be “fluid” without limited exposure areas for “sunglasses” or “prescription glasses”. The shop must keep up with the new display and visual merchandising systems. The product must be explained through communication media; for this reason, more and more often we insert smart screens or tablets into our fittings to help the optician entertain his customer in a digital experience. For several years now, Arteco has been supporting its clients also in the choice of contents, as well as with a targeted coordinated communication project. The “ideal” point of sale today should be a space designed to welcome the customer in a comfortable environment, free to
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
29
INTERVIEW WITH DANIELE ROCCHI Q. The optician is your interlocutor, how has this professional figure changed from 1981 to today? Do you find a greater sensitivity to your proposals? Has there been an evolution, or do you see the same mistakes as repeated in the past? The optician has certainly evolved, both on the professional side linked to the sight test, as well as with regard to the application of contact lenses; for this reason we increasingly design areas dedicated to these purposes that are ever closer to welcoming lounges rather than cold medical practices, creating an aesthetic and functional link between the sales and professional areas. From a commercial point of view, the
30
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
optician has become a careful buyer, often able to anticipate his customer’s requests, selecting new brands and offering cuttingedge proposals. Q. Arteco also works abroad a lot. What differences do you find between Italian opticians and those of other countries? The optics segment is very homogeneous, the trends are now the same the world over, however we can see differences according to the territories, but all always focused on the search for beauty and functionality. The main request is addressed to uniqueness, our customers want proposals studied only and exclusively for their needs and they ask Arteco for confidential and proactive advice.
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
34
The Philipp Plein and De Rigo Groups have announced the licensing agreement with immediate effect for the creation, production and global distribution of sunglasses and eyewear. This important collaboration will lead to the launch of new collections that will combine the De Rigo Group’s technical knowhow and quality with the unmistakable and innovative aesthetics of Philipp Plein. The launch of the first collection is expected for the second half of 2021.
Bolon Eyewear confirms its presence at the Lido, on the occasion of the 77th Venice Film Festival, by opening a temporary showroom in the Hall of the Hotel Excelsior, which has always hosted world famous actors and celebrities. On this occasion the FW 2020 collection will be presented for the first time: eyewear with sinuous lines and elegant silhouettes, ideal accessories to show off on the red carpet: to emphasize the glamorous and elegant atmosphere of the event.
Moncler Lunettes
Fabrizio Curci è il nuovo CEO e General Manager di Marcolin Group dallo scorso 22 giugno 2020. Curci vanta un’importante esperienza nel settore automotive e negli anni ha ricoperto incarichi di crescente responsabilità in aziende di primaria importanza. Poco dopo la nomina del nuovo CEO, Marcolin Group e Moncler hanno annunciato il rinnovo anticipato dell’accordo di licenza in esclusiva mondiale per il design, la produzione e distribuzione di occhiali da sole, montature da vista e maschere da sci per uomo e donna a marchio Moncler Lunettes. La partnership, iniziata nel 2015, è stata estesa per ulteriori 5 anni, sino al 31 dicembre 2025. Marcolin Group ha anche siglato recentemente un accordo di licenza per il design, la produzione e la distribuzione a livello globale di occhiali da sole e da vista Max Mara. La partnership prevede una durata di 5 anni con inizio a partire dal 1° novembre 2020 e segue gli accordi del 2019 per l’eyewear di Sportmax e MAX&Co.
Fabrizio Curci
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
Formula 1 has announced a partnership with specialist eyewear company Formuleyes to release an exclusive collection of premium glasses, celebrating the sport’s past, present and future as part of its 70th anniversary celebrations. The first collection will feature three pairs of glasses, all representing a different aspect of what makes Formula 1 so special: the 3D printed Titanium, the Gold in handmade cellulose acetate, titanium and carbon fibre and the Red, which combines sport and fashion.
Venice International Film Festival is the oldest film festival in the world since 1932. Also this year’s edition, despite the pandemic, saw the presence of numerous protagonists of cinema, art and culture. The Australian actress Cate Blanchett was the President of the Jury and has been seen wearing Valentino eyewear – model VA4075. Alessandro Gassmann is an italian actor, son of Vittorio Gassmann and French actress Juliette Mayniel. He was in Armani – mod. AR8118.
EssilorLuxottica confirms that it has decided to file an appeal against the judgment dismissing the Company’s demands for disclosure of information from GrandVision. EssilorLuxottica is concerned about GrandVision’s behavior in continuing to deny access to important information related to their handling of the COVID-19 outbreak. Legal proceedings, including the appeal, do not affect the review of the proposed transaction by the competition authorities in the remaining jurisdictions.
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – March 2020 NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS 35
36
Omisan farmaceutici, an Italian company active in the production of sterile medical devices for eye care and contact lenses for over 20 years, joined last July the Corporate Advisory Board of the prestigious TFOS (Tear Film & Ocular Surface Society) of Boston, an international non-profit association of reference in this field, which promotes research, expertise and educational aspects of the scientific field dealing with tear film and ocular surface. This choice underlines Omisan farmaceutici’s focus on dry eye and on specific products for the treatment of dry eye symptoms. Representing the Italian company will be its founder, Dr. Nevio Vona.
From the idea of a group of designers and brands was born “Enjoy Eyewear Again”, a day in the frame of Villa Avanzi in Polpenazze del Garda (Brescia, Italy) to rediscover the pleasure of doing research in eyewear design with Blake Kuwahara, Carin, Covrt Project, Eyevan 7285, Emanuelle Khanh, Fabbrica Torino, Good’s, Hapter, Hoet, Kerl, Kreuzbergkinder, Leinz Eyewear, Miga Studio, Movitra, Nobika, Soya, Tavat, Retrosuperfuture, Vava and W-Eye. On September 7, the opticians - limited in number in compliance with safety regulations - were able to confront a selection of ideas, projects and technologies in the sector, between a good glass of Franciacorta wine and a risotto, a late afternoon aperitif and lots of “Eyewear”.
Marcolin Group has signed a licensing agreement for the design, production and global distribution of Max Mara sunglasses and prescription eyewear. The partnership will run for five years beginning November 1, 2020 and follows the 2019 agreements for Sportmax and MAX&Co eyewear. The first Max Mara eyewear collection created by Marcolin Group will be presented and worn at Max Mara’s fashion show in Milan on Thursday, September 24, 2020.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS
NEWS
SILMO PARIS 2020: a responsible decision and an alternative proposal On July 23rd, AmĂŠlie Morel, President of the SILMO Association, had to break all hopes of the operators in our sector to meet in Paris at the beginning of October. In her official communication, the President recalled that since the beginning of the global economic and health crisis, Silmo has made clear commitments and established farreaching measures to protect and guide companies in the sector in this particularly difficult period. In this particular context, they announced that they would take a decision on the 2020 edition of the fair in mid-July, based on various criteria relating to the fundamental aspects of the fair and developments in the health, economic and international political situation. They had hoped right up to the last minute to be able to confirm the fair from 2 to 5 October in Paris but, at a time when registered exhibitors were about to make
additional expenses to finalize their participation in the fair and visitors were about to start making travel plans, there were still uncertainties about whether the fair could take place as planned. The Executive Committee of SILMO met its partner COMEXPOSIUM, and took the sad decision to cancel the Silmo 2020 event in Paris, which was to be held in Paris Nord Villepinte with 688 exhibitors already confirmed. Silmo Outside the Walls In such an exceptional context, agility is key. Soon after announcing that the 2020 edition will not be held in Paris Nord Villepinte, SILMO Paris has activated its plan B to meet the expectations of the optical and eyewear industry and the expectations of exhibitors and visitors hoping to meet and
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
37
announced Silmo Hors Les Murs (Silmo Outside the Walls). Accompanying the industry’s recovery by coordinating a series of local professional events with a format suited to the current sanitary and economic limitations: such is the objective of Silmo Hors Les Murs. The spirit of Silmo Paris will make the scene in Paris, Bordeaux, Rennes and Lyon – as well as in Copenhagen (On October 3rd and 4th at the Scandic Kodbyen hotel in Copenhagen, Denmark) –, not only through its image and the quality of its participating companies, but also through its extensive features (Silmo d’Or, Silmo Next, Trends by Silmo) and distinctively friendly atmosphere. For its first Hors Les Murs event, to be held in Paris on 3 and 4 October, 2020, Silmo will take to Le Jardin des Tuileries during Paris Fashion Week. One week later, on October 12th, the event will take place in the centre of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Garonne at Hangar 14, where the exhibitors of Silmo Hors les Murs will gather with the opticians of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. On October 19th, Silmo welcomes the professio-
38
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
nals of the Grand-Ouest at Le Château des Pères, a historical estate and centre for artistic creation just a few miles from the centre of Rennes. Silmo Hors Les Murs will conclude its tour on October 26th in Lyon, at an original 1930s industrial building called La Sucrière located among the docks of Lyon-Confluence. Moreover, the 2020 Silmo d’Or awards will go forward, open to all the companies registered to date. Once again this year, Silmo Academy will issue a scholarship to support a scientific research project in vision and optics. Through a specialised application, Silmo Next – a laboratory of ideas, a forum for interprofessional discussions, and a showcase for creation and innovation – will present the summary of the work that began two years ago, probing into the future of the sector, product developments, and the optical profession: “Towards a techno-responsible optical and eyewear future.” SILMO 2021 will be back to the Paris Nord Villepinte exhibition centre from 24 to 27 September 2021.
ALSO VISION EXPO WEST HAS BEEN CANCELLED The Vision Council and Reed Exhibitions, organizers of Vision Expo, on July 9 announced the decision to cancel Vision Expo West 2020, scheduled to take place in Las Vegas, Nevada from September 23–26. Over the past several months, Reed Exhibitions’ Vision Expo team and The Vision Council worked together to prepare and plan for the highly anticipated event while closely monitoring the COVID-19 pandemic and its impact on members of the optical community. With the health and wellbeing of everyone in attendance at the Show as the show organizers’ primary concern, Vision Expo, along with the Venetian Resort, developed a multi-layered, in-depth plan to ensure the safety of everyone planning on attending. Despite these efforts and a strong interest from the industry to participate, the decision has been
made to cancel Vision Expo West 2020 as a result of Nevada Governor Steve Sisolak’s announcement on June 26 sharing that Nevada “will remain in Phase 2 of reopening plans through the end of July due to current trends of the coronavirus infection.” “While certainly disappointing, the decision to cancel Vision Expo West 2020 is prudent and necessary following the announcement of the extension of Phase 2 in Las Vegas into the end of July. Without having visibility on when the state of Nevada will be ready to roll into future phases or what the future phases will allow for, coupled with the unfortunate spiking of COVID-19 cases in the region, we know it is in the best interest of everyone in the vision community to not move forward with the Show.” said Fran Pennella, Event Vice President, Vision Expo, at Reed Exhibitions.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
39
“We pride ourselves on being the industry’s ultimate gathering place and while we recognize and appreciate how important the Show is to the community, we believe this is ultimately the right decision for our customers,” said Mitch Barkley, Vice President of Trade Shows and Meetings at The Vision Council. “At the same time, we understand the vision community’s desperate need and desire to get back to business. To meet this urgent need, we are rolling out a comprehensive series of virtual offerings to bring the optical community together in between our physical events. Some of these offerings include our Virtual Connections program, which links our exhibitors with
40
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
attendees; the Virtual EYE2EYE series, a series of virtual panels and interactive conversations inspired by Vision Expo’s EYE2EYE Educational Series; and the Virtual Vision Series, all of which can be accessed via visionexpo.com.” With a focus on delivering greater value to the industry and further developing fresh and innovative virtual offerings, Vision Expo launched a robust 365-digital platform dedicated to bringing the optical community together and allowing business to continue and flourish. The platform will include CE education, allow for direct appointment setting, virtual product showcases, service and product sourcing, and much more.
IOFT 2020 The 33rd International Optical Fair Tokyo (IOFT 2020), organised by Reed Exhibitions Japan Ltd. and the Fukui Optical Association will take place in October 27-29 at Tokyo Big Sight, Japan. IOFT will almost certainly be the only specialized exhibition in the optical and eyewear sector to take place in the second half of this 2020 hit by the pandemic that caused the cancellation of all the other fairs in the world. The organisers announced that the exhibition halls are expected to be filled with 270 Exhibitors and 54,000 items. Continuing from previous years, the concept of IOFT 2020 has not changed: “Firm business platform in Japan and Asia”. Many previous exhibitors and new companies have already secured their space. This year the show will be divided in 5 Exhibiting Zones: • Fukui Zone: “Made in Japan” products especially from Fukui, Japan’s major production area for eyewear. • “tide” - The IOFT International Designers - The dedicated area for stylish and unique international eyewear designers. • General Zone: Exhibiting eyewear accessories, testing equipment, Lenses and frames. • Luxury Zone: Showcasing all kinds of luxury eyewear, including platinum, gold, and jewels. • IOFT Boutique: Dedicated to the most avantgarde and expressive eyewear.
Several events will be held at IOFT 2020: • 24th Japan Eyewear Award (JEA) JEA takes place annually inside International Optical Fair Tokyo (IOFT) to select and honor the best new eyewear design to be introduced in this fall and winter. It consists of 5 categories: Men’s Eyewear, Ladies’ Eyewear, Kids Eyewear, Sunglasses, Functions & Technologies, and from each category, three winning products and a Grand Prix product will be announced. (Oct. 27th, 2020 1:00p.m.- at the Special Stage in the Exhibition Hall) • 33nd Japan Best Dressed Eyes Awards This event awards Japanese celebrities (including prominent politicians, actor/actresses, models, comedians and other high profile figures) with outstanding eyewear fashion sense to raise the awareness and interest of eyewear to the consumer level. The winners will be rewarded with many fashionable and quality eyewear from IOFT exhibitors. Since many of the overseas buyers may have difficulty visiting the show physically due to the travel restriction, IOFT Show Management offers Online Business Meeting Service to accommodate the needs of such buyers. The details of this service will be announced shortly on the IOFT official site.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
41
Silmo Bangkok 2020 Rescheduled With the world facing an extraordinary situation due to Covid19 pandemic and with safety of stakeholders in mind, COMEXPOSIUM and IMPACT Exhibition Management Co., Ltd—the organisers of SILMO Bangkok 2020, scheduled to take place from 25th to 27th November 2020, have decided to reschedule the 2020 edition until further notice. The organizers have taken this crucial decision in
42
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
consultation with key stakeholders, and in view of travel restrictions that are still in place in Thailand, along with the mandatory 14 day quarantine requirement, which makes it almost impossible to hold an international physical exhibition. The organisers expressed their heartfelt thanks to their exhibitors, visitors, partners and everyone who participated and supported SILMO Bangkok throughout the years.
FMO and Media 10 join forces to deliver one major UK industry show Media 10, organisers of 100% Optical, and the Federation of Manufacturing Opticians have reached an agreement that brings the main optical bodies and the industry together in one major event for 2021 onwards. In addition to this agreement, the FMO, together with show organiser MA Exhibitions, a member of the Mark Allen Group, have made the difficult decision to cancel Optrafair 2020, which was due to take place at the NEC between 19-21 September 2020. This action was taken due to the continued uncertainty surrounding delivery of events as a result of Covid-19. The joining of forces between FMO and Media 10, as well as the cancellation of Optrafair 2020, provides the industry with much-needed security and clarity. The industry can now be assured there is one major annual exhibition, 100% Optical at London’s ExCeL exhibition centre, which now has full industry support from the FMO and other major optical bodies. The agreement reached between Media 10 and the FMO sees the Optrafair brand transition to Media 10 ownership from 2021. That means that
optical suppliers will be able to plan with certainty and put their event marketing plans into place to support one event in January 2021. Nathan Garnett, Event Director for 100% Optical said “We are living through uncertain times. Whilst this agreement would have been reached without the current pandemic, its importance now is magnified as the optical industry needs solidarity at this time. With the FMO’s full backing of 100% Optical, coupled with that of the AOP and ABDO, I can see huge potential for us to take 100% Optical forwards, grow our attendance levels, increase the diversity of our content, and make it an even more unmissable date in the UK and International Optical calendar.” Media 10, ExCeL London and the local health authorities are currently working on ways to ensure 100% Optical 2021 will be COVID safe, with adherence to all the latest government guidelines on running safe trade exhibitions. All those involved want to put delegates minds at rest that every measure will be taken to ensure the event will be a safe environment for exhibitors and visitors.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – September 2020
43
The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2020
ADVERTISERS
Publisher Edizioni Ariminum Srl
3MOMI
p 21
Via Negroli 51/A - 20133 Milano Italy
ANA HICKMANN (GO Eyewear) p
2
Tel.+39/02.73.00.91 r.a. – Fax. +39/02.71.73.46
CTI
Cover III
www.vedere.it – welcome@vedere.it
INVU – Swiss Eyewear Group
p 23
IOFT
Cover IV
LINDBERG
p1
MIDO
p 32/33
OMISAN Farmaceutici
Cover II
TECHNODESIGN
p 31
TUTORNET
p4
Ziel srl
p9
Publishing Director Isabella Morpurgo – isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it Advertising Rita Ferraro – pubblicita@vedere.it Editorial Staff Manlio Valli – communication@vedere.it Layout Enrico Alvarez – graphic@vedere.it
Subscription Department • The journal publishes articles and releases from individual authors or firms. Publishing this material does not involve the journal’s opinion or liability. Autorizzazione Tribunale di Milano del 23-03-1991 N. 221 Associata a A.N.E.S. Associazione Nazionale Editoria Periodica Specializzata • Reproduction without written express authorization of the publisher is prohibited.
PRINT: Pixartprinting S.p.A. Via 1° Maggio, 8 –30020 Quarto d’Altino – VE - Italia
AIR WATER OUR NATURAL ELEMENTS
www.cti-spa.com | info@cti-spa.com
LAND ALWAYS WITH YOU International forwarder for your business Air, water and land. These are our natural elements, the ones we move best in and where we always find ourselves at ease. Since 1997, we have been bringing your products into the world, studying the best solutions intelligently, preventing potential problems with a high level of precision and guaranteeing you speed of service.
