Edizioni Ariminum Srl - Via Negroli, 51/A - 20133 Milan - Italy
CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH THÉLIOS
BEING AN INDEPENDENT OPTICIAN
ANALYZING THE DISCOUNT POLICY
The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - November 2019
www.omisan.com
GRAFICA ED. ARIMINUM
ULTRA POLARIZED GLASS
Brilliant Colors & Exceptional Clarity
Fashion Trends Industry New Products Marketing & Economy VEDERE International November 2019 Publishing Director: Isabella Morpurgo
EDITORIAL 4
INTERVIEW 6
POINT OF VIEW 10
NEWONSTAGE 18
FAIRS 22
NEWS 36
The Great Maneuvers Our sector is undergoing major “shocks� that are drastically changing many scenarios we have been used to for decades. Almost in every issue of our magazine we report new acquisitions, mergers and strategies imple-
not only on the products offered, but also on the service and customization of the same. An error in the management of a customer can permanently remove him while attention to a problem and his positive solution can create
mented by the Big Ones and the entry into the field in the last years of LVMH and Kering has added new factors to take into consideration. To better understand the evolution taking place I met Giovanni Zoppas, CEO & General Manager of Thelios, who introduced me in detail current and future developments of the company born from the partnership between LVMH and Marcolin Group. In this issue of our magazine, the contributions of some industry players continue. Franca Bochicchio, an independent optician in Milan, raises the question of who opticians are today and what tools are available to them to make their professionalism evolve, while Cristian Rossi examines the policy of discounts without logic. Customer Care has become an increasingly important topic for retailers of any sizes and sectors. Whether it is a group with many points of sale or an independent optician, competition is played
loyalty. We are interested in understanding if customer care policies change from country to country and we intend to examine this aspect thoroughly. Finally, in September and October we participated in Silmo, IOFT and, as regards the Italian market, at Expo Ottica Sud in Taormina and visited Dates in Florence, we will report in detail on these events in the next issue.
Isabella Morpurgo Publisher VEDERE International isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
VEDERE INTERVIEW WITH GIOVANNI ZOPPAS by Isabella Morpurgo
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Giovanni Zoppas A stormy sky is looming over Paris in late September, while I leave the Silmo exhibition to reach the city centre where Giovanni Zoppas, CEO and General Manager of Thélios, granted me a meeting; I am very interested in getting a better understanding of the reality of this enterprise, born from the partnership between LVMH and Marcolin and whose name recalls two divinities: the Greek Theia, goddess of light and sight, and the sun god Helios. Thélios is not exhibiting at the fair and, upon my arrival at the temporary venue which was set up for the occasion, it is immediately clear to me that this choice was certainly not due to economic reasons. The location selected for this refined marketing operation is the Cercle d’Aumale, a 19th century building in the 9th arrondissement, once a private music club that hosted the greatest French artists. In this setting, within a few days Thélios had created various rooms, distributed over several floors and inspired by its eyewear collections, for an outstanding presentation of the new models to the opticians, selected as considered to be on the same wavelength of style and quality of the various companies referring to Thélios. Giovanni Zoppas immediately appears different from the other important managers that I have met. Usually, the BIG manager “receives” me, often already behind a desk from which, he magnanimously grants some grain of his knowledge. In this case all habits were distorted. I am greeted by a smile and a frank and determined handshake. We go up together to an elegant lounge with an extremely
stylish simplicity and, comfortably seated on the sofas, a pleasant exchange of ideas takes place. Here we are joined by two young protagonists of the “operational” life of Thélios, Sara Osculati - Chief Brand and Product Officer - and Guillaume Liné - Chief Commercial and Service Officer - who help me understand a few company dynamics. We immediately come to the point: what Thélios represents and its objectives. I know that LVMH is a world leader in the luxury sector and has developed a business model, characterized by dynamic growth, since its foundation in 1987. I know a lot more about Marcolin, having had the fortune to know the company since the times of its founder Giovanni Marcolin Coffen and having followed the developments over the decades. Thélios derives from the deep knowledge of the markets in the Luxury segment of LVMH and from the experience in the eyewear field of Marcolin. Mr. Zoppas immediately wants to clarify the concept of Luxury according to Thélios. It is certainly not an end in itself but a synthesis of Quality, Savoir Faire, Tradition and Creativity which has been reinterpreted thanks to a great deal of Research and Development. Each collection comes from the ideas of internal creatives who know the Company and their DNA very well. The resulting products are therefore genetically aligned and born at the same time as the Fashion collections. There is a direct line, the dialogue between creatives and designers, between Fashion and Eyewear, is continuous. Brands like Celine, Fred, Loewe, Kenzo and Berluti
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mod. Celine manifest themselves in the eyewear product thanks to this important synergy that also transfers special processes and technologies from one product to another. An illuminating example of this is the Berluti eyewear collection where reference is made to a particular processing: that patina which has made shoes and other Berluti leather products famous throughout the world. Research is not just about creativity or the materials and components of the frames, but great resources are also dedicated to lens’ research. Thélios has also drastically changed the timing of the presentation of its collections: in line with the fashion world, timing is no longer set by the sector exhibitions like Mido and Silmo, but by the Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter collections. All production is carried out in Italy in Thélios. We recall that in April 2018 the first production plant
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in Longarone was inaugurated and a second is expected in short. The 150,000 frames produced in the early days will soon become 4 million, all made by young local workers, guided by experts who share their know-how.
mod. Fred
The entire company is young: the average age in the factory is 25 years and also in the Paris offices Mr. Zoppas relies on the collaboration and initiative of many young people. As far as the sales’ network and sales’ outlets for each country are concerned, the company was helped by the fact that it did not inherit any pre-existing structures (Marcolin just gives a logistical aid in a few cases or operative in some countries with special needs) but that it could choose from scratch, based on a very specific selection criteria. After reluctantly abandoning the pleasant exchange of ideas with Giovanni Zoppas and his collaborators, my encounter with the Thélios world then continued from room to room in the building where I could “immerse myself” in the atmosphere and learn more about the various collections. I could not snatch any anticipation but I think I understood
that we should expect more news in the short term. Maybe at the inauguration of the second factory in Longarone. I’ll wait ... but I’m curious. I admit, I like this type of luxury.
DIOR HAS ARRIVED The same day of my meeting with Giovanni Zoppas, Thélios and Dior announced that they had “combined their exceptional know-how for the creation, manufacture and distribution of Dior eyewear throughout the world”. The first Dior eyewear collection conceived with Thélios will be presented in January 2021 for the spring-summer collection, and will be available in Dior boutiques worldwide as well as within the Thélios selective distribution network.
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The Sales Rep
Analysis of a bad word: DISCOUNT
Cristian Rossi Marchon Sales Rep Marchon District Manager Blogger on www.vedicomevendi.blogspot.com
My name is Cristian Rossi, sales rep since 1999; this space in “VEDERE” is the most rewarding way to celebrate 20 years of activity in the optical sector. For a year I am also District Manager of Marchon and I coordinate a team of five agents in my territory of competence. Analysis of a bad word: DISCOUNT
the merchants proposed a price reduction for purchases of greater quantities of goods. FIRST APPLICATION: “The discount applied to perishable or near-perishable goods” At the end of 1800 the person who took over the rights of Coca Cola devised the “discount codes”, as a means to allow most people to taste and to know this new drink. In this way, he determined its very rapid diffusion.
Today I want to analyze a topic that has been in my head for a long time. Nowadays, the dimension this topic has reached is just absurd and meaningless. In order to analyze the theme of the discount, a brief historical excursus becomes necessary. The discount was born many centuries ago to facilitate the sale of perishable foodstuffs, in order to prevent the loss of commercial value of the goods. Great ships lead potatoes, coffee and all kinds of flour from America to Europe. In order to sell these foods quickly - before they perished and to speed up the return on the Atlantic routes,
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SECOND APPLICATION: “When the discount is used to spread a product or service much more quickly, this is called PROMOTION” With the passing of the years and the refinement of sales techniques in America from the beginning of the 20th century, the concept of discount has passed to the concept of “PROMOTION”, i.e. the application of a price reduction not only to perishable goods but to any kind of goods, with the aim to obtain a significant variation of a fundamental aspect of the company: THE INCREASE OF ACTIVE CUSTOMERS. However, the increase in spin-off companies and, therefore, competition in all markets (including online) has led to confusion in the use of these original concepts, weakening the concept of promotion and bringing these practices to an explosion as they are used by all those companies that fail to get a truly differentiating idea of product or service.
Have you ever been to any store belonging to structured chains like OVS, ZARA, INTIMISSIMI, GARDENIA etc. trying to ask for a discount, if this was NOT specifically indicated in a communicated promotion?” I bet you would never even think of asking. Well, not even me. Why then should our beloved customers receive a different response in your store? I reply: “Out of habit” CONVERTING A DISCOUNT IN A MARKETING OPERATION Now that it is clear how all activities that are the slightly more structured than “Scarrafonzo snc” are proceeding, let’s see how we can convert a dangerous discount into a structured promotion that can be really useful for our business. NECESSARY FEATURES: 1) PUBLICATION
WHAT IS THE INCIDENCE OF A PRICE DISCOUNT? Well, let’s just do the math: In the sale of a complete single-lens eyewear for € 250, making a simple 10% final discount, only to earn favor with the customer for the next time. But the actual incidence is much greater if we calculate it in relation to profits: we are around a net profit reduction of about 25%! If this operation does not lead to an increase in our active customers of at least 30%, it corresponds to a commercial and economic suicide!
Publication must be made no more than 60 and no less than 30 days BEFORE the beginning of the promotion itself. The possible target customer, who might have postponed the purchase of your good or service to “date to be decided”, must be driven by the specific promotion to anticipate the purchase NOW. In addition, the promotion must serve to convey possible leads to gravitate to your store ESPECIALLY if they didn’t know you before. Mistakes to avoid: if you do not inform potential customers via mailings, social networks, leafleting, text messages and more it will be impossible for the promotion to increase customers and sales.
If there is no well-balanced marketing operation defined on paper, this will be a suicide for any company you are and whatever name you have, either “Apple” or “Salumeria Da Gerolamo il salsicciaio”.
2) TIMES: START AND DEADLINE Beginning and ending of the promotion must be CLEAR. The customer must know that if he returns to
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4) CLEAR AND STRONG Promotion must be clear in terms and strong in communication. The discount must be applied to ALL the pieces in the store of a particular category, with a finished price or a unique and clear percentage. The communicative clarity determines that customers feel safe and relaxed during the purchase decision.
your store the following week or month, he will not have the possibility to exploit this opportunity. This information must appear EVERYWHERE and must be WELL READABLE. Mistakes to avoid: generic DISCOUNTS signs attached to the windows do not absolutely transmit anything. On the contrary, they determine a low confidence on the perceived value of the discounts and therefore of the goods themselves. 3) WHICH GOODS AND SERVICES CAN BE INCLUDED
Mistakes to avoid: green, yellow or red stickers applied to products, defining discount limits at 3040-50%. This determines the customer’s feeling that promotions are never really convenient. It would be better to take all the goods we want to take out and put them in a very specific wall, below a 50% discount sign. The items we do not want to include in the promotion are moved to the opposite wall and there are no discounts on those. If the promotion concerns the lenses, do not limit the discount only to standard lenses or to certain cylinder values. And this also because in the best of hypotheses you will spend the following days trying to let the possible interested customers understand why a lens fits us and why the other one does not, creating indecision and the feeling of being “screwed” ... be careful
The promotion must concern certain goods or services (a particular collection, a type of ophthalmic lens or a certain additional service) so that, if the same customer requests a discount on another article, the answer may (and must) be categorically NO. THIS TRANSMITS RELIABILITY AND ELEVATES THE PERCEIVED VALUE OF THE PROMOTION. Mistakes to avoid: Generic “all for € X” signs do not communicate a real benefit for the purchaser and, above all, they do not increase leads or turnover, TAKE THEM AWAY
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Once a promotion integrates all 4 indicated points, the increase in customers and the increase in turnover deriving from them will abundantly cover the efforts made to set up the promotion and (above all !!) will not negatively affect the level of your activity, perceived by the historical customers. Now try to look around and try to verify what I said as simple customers; go shopping, look, think and reflect, take inspiration and do it more if you notice mistakes, be curious about what others are doing ... always. Greetings
The Independent Optician
To be or not to be?
Franca Bochicchio Ottica & Glasstylist ® DIECIDECIMI ® – Milano Blogger glasstylist.com
“...that is the question: whether ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take arms against a sea of troubles and by opposing end them.”
Shakespeare in the optics? Why not? For those working in this ever-changing sector, passion, fortitude and braveness are mandatory, and literature, philosophy and lessons from the past can switch on a light on our path like a lighthouse on our future, as they often do. The dynamics involved in the optics sector
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have led us - independent opticians wondering around thousands of questions, evaluating thousands of possibilities aimed to evolve our profession, to improve ourselves, to focus and rethink that role and profession of us that changes every day, in few words our “being”. New actors have entered the scene in our everyday life, figures that before were not there but that, by identifying
new development opportunities in our profession, have carved out a considerable slice of action for themselves. The possibilities opened up by the internet and social networks, and the consequent fast and uniformed communication that unfolds in Facebook groups, blogs, pages, streaming video, tutorials and so on and so forth, encouraged the initiatives of the new actors and quickly projected us opticians into an “other” and, in some ways, very confused new edge. Today, we have consultants for every single aspect of our job: those who support us in the sales, in the frames selection, in the progressive lenses evaluation, as well as in managing our own P&L and, in general, in every aspect of our business. To make it short: our job has been analyzed in every single aspect, sliced to the bone, and each piece has been studied in depth to find winning solutions to recommend. There is a lot of work behind the study of these new actors and just as much passion in chasing for a new street, where a street isn’t supposed to exist. Where do I want to go? To two simple considerations: how does it change, after this business dismemberment
and re-classification, our “being” opticians? How many of these recommendations, while being so passionate, are already inherent in the DNA of the opticians’ “being” and, as such, already our own prerogative? The needs of a sector turned upside-down and completely renewed if compared to a few decades ago, and still in continuous evolution, is little by little bringing our “being” opticians to become a “non-being” to put it to the Shakespearean way – by dint of business consulting. Safeguarding the job of those new actors who really bring added value to the figure of the optician and who stand beside him (and not in front of him) to support him with interesting and useful topics and advices, I feel like the collaboration between these new figures and the optician, in response to the changes happening in our sector, would have more substance if the optician starts claiming again for his role at the center of this universe, by leveraging more on the competences already available in the optician himself. It happens to come across some social media comments from consultants grounding their advices on the optician’s lacking of knowledge, and this cannot be the best way to start finding solutions together. Behind every optician there is not just a simple salesman, but there is a professional who has studied, invested time and experience, and he is brilliantly pursuing his profession
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with passion and new ideas, expanding his knowledge and skills to keep up with the times, even by opening his own shop’s doors to new collaborations.
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Respect is and must be, as always, the primary value that must be strenuously defended in this sector, especially in the evolutionary phase we are living, to avoid waking up one morning and finding opticians outside their shops because there is nothing left of the their role that someone can resell. The second consideration props from the basics: do all the opticians really need advice on everything, on every single aspect of their job? We have stressed and talked at length about homologation and how much, instead, the worthiness of the small players in this sector is the differentiation, the uniqueness of themselves and their sales points. The independent opticians positioned at the center of this universe, where the right consultancies become strategic, know their strengths but also the weaknesses and can select the support they need just as they do with their products, helping to provide the support they really deserve. The concurrency
Photo by Monica Rossetti
between professionals esteeming each other is always more fruitful, and today it is fundamental to focus the need instead of generalizing it. The “being” of the opticians regenerated and enriched by this flood of solutions and consultancies should, once again, aim at a unique mix, at the center of which is always the person, the professional figure. We must always preserve the identity of the optician, it’s own and most authentic “being” if we want to preserve his business. The respect we mentioned above should derive from the awareness that those opticians who leverage from the new consultants’ support do it precisely because they are the first to believe and respect
themselves, a respect that should never be lost and forgotten just by anyone. Being or not being in the Shakespearean conception will always remain the eternal dilemma and also for us opticians declines in the dichotomy “to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune” or “to take arms against a sea of troubles and by opposing end them”. Perhaps as often happens the truth, the route to follow, is the one in the middle, in that area where you can look straight ahead without fear. As always, finding the balance is the main thing. Each, his own.
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NEWONSTAGE
Kaleidoscope collection Silmo 2019 has seen the launch of two new colours to the Kaleidoscope collection by Kirk & Kirk. Blues and mauves have always been a favourite colour for Kirk & Kirk fans. Marine - a Mediterranean summer sea, is captured in this unique Italian acrylic created by Kirk & Kirk. Centena sees three additions to the collection: Stanley, Ella and Miriam - all named after members of the Kirk family in celebration of 100 years in optics. This Italian material allow Kirk & Kirk to source their own unique colours and gives the frame a jewel-like quality. The lightness of the material allows for a substantial frame that is super light to wear. Kirk & Kirk only sell to the very best independent opticians around the world
Shapes and colours for Lightbird Lightbird, the new eyewear brand created by the designer Corrado Rosson – based in Belluno, Italy - presented the models Moon and Asteroid whose names derive from the The Little Prince book. They are a tribute to the common values that the book shares with the brand, such as dream, passion, light and balance. These new styles belong to the first Light_MATTER collection, thirteen optical and five sun models. The collection features geometries characterized by an alternation of lines and shapes that can be both sharp and decisive and rounded and sinuous. The choice of colours is dynamic, ranging from monochromatic tone-on-tone to two-tone models with animalier acetates and defined colours. Lightbird is characterized not only by style and design, but also by technological innovation. The 100% Made in Italy brand offers indeed a new material called Light_MATTER, derived from the union of two materials: Italian acetate and hi-tech light aluminium alloy.
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Feel the EASE MARKUS T presented at last Silmo in Paris their new rimless collection EASE that defines lightness by its wide range and its technology. The delicate, screwless hinge with temples and the bridge made from a very slim titanium, combined with a highly precise glazing technology guarantees that all EASE models are lightweights, starting at only 3.6 grams. For MARKUS T, less means a surplus of opportunities: 22 models, out of which 10 have optional titanium add-ons, or coloured TMi-flex contours. The gossamer, specially dyed titanium add-ons can be attached easily to the connecting parts and fit interlocking. The TMi-flex contours – available in five selected colours and two widths – are another great option for easy customization. The range is completed by two alternative temples. The EASE collection thus offers more than 20.000 possible combinations.
An innovative eyeglasses/clip solution SNOB Milano, despite its short 6-year history, is a pioneer collection of flat lenses, masks and magnetic clip-ons and has been able to propose new trends and new design languages. DaTE and Silmo 2019 saw the debut of a new technological innovation as the company’s designers have succeeded in overcoming the arduous challenge of applying a mask with magnetic clip-on to a glasant. The new patent required 2 years of development and engineering and has been applied to 3 models that, with the irreverent irony that has distinguished the brand since its debut, have been called Vün, Dü, Trì (one, two, three in Milanese dialect).
The magnetic clip-on specialists did not stop here and have also produced new and interesting developments on the main line. The Quader, Umbi and Paròn models, for example, introduce a brand-new metal clip. Sciura and Madama are, instead, two feminine forms with generous sizes, distinguished by the application of rhinestones on some versions. Finally, the research on magnetic attraction also continues on ski masks. The Quattro model enables a very fast lens change thanks to powerful magnets applied on the frame of the double lens. More, based on the results obtained, SNOB Milano and ZEISS Sunlens have renewed their fruitful and exclusive collaboration for the next two years.
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NEWONSTAGE
Sergio Tacchini Eyewear Collection Mondottica presented the first Sergio Tacchini eyewear collection: from the tennis courts to the streets, all styles are developed with the brands’ winning sports heritage in mind. In the sunglass collection three focused directions act as a starting point for the design process: the BLUE range, featuring timeless classics inspired by the fashion side of the label; the RED range, celebrating tennis and the technical elements of sportswear; and the GREEN range which pays homage to the archive and its most iconic pieces. Green/Archivio Range - The sporty feel of the aviator shape plays a big part within the debut sunglass offering, catering to different face shapes for both men and women. With its thick round frame and contrast colours, STGS1002 is bold and designed to stand out. Crafted from acetate, it features a double bridge for maximum impact, and boasts a milled logo on the temple which reveals the secondary hue underneath for extra flair. Its oversized, bolder version STGS1001 has a more masculine appeal and is defined by mirrored lenses and metallic accents. The optical category exudes the same confidence, with vintage references and a twist on the classics.
La rivoluzione nella centratura
TutorNET: when a “Zero” makes the difference TutorNet is an Italian excellence, where young people with a great experience in the development of innovative software work on new solutions for the world of Optics. Thanks to this vision, TutorNet is able to offer innovative products with a postmarketing high quality assistance, on site and phone based. For these reasons, some of the most important Italian purchasing groups have already become TuterNet customers.
La rivoluzione nella centratura
Zer O determina con certezza la postura naturale del per rilevare sempre la corretta centratura del progressivo Centration...& Heights TutorNET is now presenting Zero: the innovative new device that determines with certainty the customer’s natural posture to always detect the correct centering of progressive lenses. Zero is compatible with any electronic and manual centering system, allowing maximum adaptability of the device in any operating situation.
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Zer O determina con certezza la postura naturale del cliente Postura NATURALE Postura NON naturale. VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – November 2019 per rilevare sempre la correttanon centratura Il cliente avrà del progressivo. Le altezze che rilevate
Hong Kong International Optical Fair opens in November
The 27th edition of the HKTDC Hong Kong International Optical Fair, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) and co-organised by the Hong Kong Optical Manufacturers Association (HKOMA), will be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from 6 to 8 November. At a press conference held on October 18, the HKTDC revealed the latest eyewear design trends and showcased some of the highlighted products from the 2019 fair. “As a major eyewear exporting hub, Hong Kong’s export performance for eyewear products remains steady,” said Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Acting Executive Director. “This year’s fair has attracted a total of 810 exhibitors from 18 countries and regions, helping companies to grasp business opportunities on a global scale. This year we have more than 600 exhibitors from outside Hong Kong, proving that Hong Kong remains an attractive trading platform. The HKTDC has also organised buying missions and strengthened its business-matching services to provide more business opportunities for exhibitors.”
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Hong Kong Optical Manufacturers Association (HKOMA) Vice President Tony Lam, Benjamin Chau, Acting Executive Director of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), Hong Kong Optical Manufacturers Association (HKOMA) President Grace Tai and Vice Presidents Sun Chow at the press conference in October
For this edition of the Optical Fair, around 70 buying missions from more than 40 countries and regions have been organised, comprising around 5,500 buyers. The fair features a total of 12 group pavilions, including France, Italy, Japan, Korea, and Taiwan. The Mainland China pavilion will gather exhibitors from Yingtan in Jiangxi province, Danyang in Jiangsu province, and new participants from Mayu in Zhejiang province and Chongqing. One of the highlights will be the Brand Name Gallery, featuring 230 international renowned eyewear brands. Other thematic zones at the fair include Frames, Lenses & Parts, Eyewear Accessories, Sporting & Professional Eyewear, Kids Eyewear & Reading Glasses, Optometric Instruments & Machinery, Contact Lenses & Accessories, Diagnostic Instruments and IT Solutions, Shop Fittings & Equipment. The 17th Hong Kong International Optometric Symposium will be held on 7 November with the theme “Advancements in Optometric Specialties”. Prof Rob Jacobs, Associate Professor of the School of Optometry & Vision Science at the University of Auckland, Dr Frederick R Edmunds, an optometrist from the United States, and other optometry experts from Malaysia, Hong Kong and the mainland will examine a number of industry issues, such as the application of artificial intelligence in ophthalmology and optometry, trends in specialty contact lens, and sports vision. To foster local creativity and innovation, the HKTDC has joined hands with the HKOMA to organise the 21st Hong Kong Eyewear Design Competition.
The theme for this year’s competition was “Muse”, with entries from the Open Group and the Student Group competing for awards in various categories including “Originality & Creativity”, “Aesthetics”, “Practicality & Functionality” and “Marketability & Product Feasibility”. The judging panel included representatives from the HKOMA, Hong Kong Productivity Council, Hong Kong Fashion Designers Association, the Hong Kong Optometric Association, Puyi Optical and Milk Magazine. The competition received close to 100 quality entries. The Champion in the Open Group is Chan Kong-ngai from S&J Optical Limited, for his work “Tag#slider”, which also receives the Made-toSell Award. Inspired by price tags and luggage tags, the entry uses 3D-printed photosensitive resins to create a fashionable and functional design. The Champion in the Student Group is Li Yuen-ying from the Hong Kong Design Institute. Her entry, “Nation of Etiquette”, was inspired by Han Chinese clothing. The Creativity Award goes to Leung Ngai-ming from ArtsGroup, who was also the First Runner-Up in the Open Group. His piece “Small & Taste” was inspired by local food, combining food images with the lenses to create a fun and unique design. Wearers can also attach tablets filled with the aroma of classic Hong Kong dishes to the frame. All the award-winning and finalist entries will be on display at Hall 1D during the fair period to showcase Hong Kong’s creative force to international buyers, helping Hong Kong-made eyewear to expand into the international market.
Chan Kong-ngai from S&J Optical Limited, Champion in the Open Group of the 21st Hong Kong Eyewear Design Competition
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Milano Eyewear Show February 29, March 1 - 2 | 2020
Dubai Optical Show Vision-X is Back
Dubai Optical Show Vision-X (DOSVX) returns, from November 12th (Tuesday) to 14th (Thursday), for 3 days of business matchmaking and exhibition, which is set to bring together top local, regional and international brands. The DOSVX concept focuses on gathering leading eyewear and eyecare industry professionals under one roof at Dubai World Trade Centre. DOSVX 2019 is the MENA region’s only eyewear and eyecare trade event and will be divided into designated communities: International Village - Design Gallery - Middle East Square - Contact Lens Square - Healthcare Suppliers. B2B Business Matchmaking This year’s DOSVX strategy will focus on offering exhibitors prime opportunities to network and do business with 130 hosted buyers from the Middle East, Mediterranean, African, and Indian subcontinent regions. In a continued and collective effort to attract the most important names in the industry to
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attend, DOSVX has recommenced its Roadshow travelling to key markets around the world. This year’s Roadshow has expanded its focus to Africa and DOSVX has partnered with NOA (Nigeria Optometric Association). The DOSVX team kicked off the Roadshow at the NOA Conference in Nigeria, in July, and presented the show concept to the country’s most prolific optical trade professionals. DOSVX announced Saudi Arabian contact lens brand Lens.me as the Diamond Sponsor of this year’s event. GFK, one of the leading market research organisations in the world, will be partner with DOSVX once again as its official Knowledge Partner. The MENA region will be a source of growth for international brands, particularly within the mid-range eyewear sector, and GFK estimates that, in the GCC alone, the optics market to be worth €1.6 billion, while the overall Middle Eastern market has been predicted to be worth €2.4 billion.
copenhagen specs expands to Barcelona
Since the very first copenhagen specs, the eyewear fair has established itself as an important part of the eyewear business. And with the partnership with SILMO, the ambition is to bring the unique fair concept of copenhagen specs to other cities than Copenhagen and Berlin. The next city will be Barcelona, and the dates for the first Barcelona specs will be May 9-10, 2020. The eyewear fair will take place in the middle of Barcelona city in the Italian Pavilion, Fira Montjuic at Plaça d’Espanya. Morten Gammelmark, Founder/CEO of copenhagen specs says: “The ambition of copenhagen specs has always been to promote and support independent eyewear. And with the partnership with SILMO we now have the opportunity to bring the eyewear fair to Barcelona and promote the fantastic independent eyewear brands. We will stay true to our concept with small booths, focus on the product and a cosy and very unique atmosphere.” He continues: “We look forward to continue the close cooperation we have with all the
independent eyewear brands and we look forward to work closely together with the independent shops in Spain and the surrounding countries.” These will be so the appointments with this event in 2020: • copenhagen specs (in Copenhagen) - March 7-8 • Barcelona specs, - May 9-10 • Berlin specs - September 5-6.
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Vision Expo West 2019 On occasion of Vision Expo West 2019, held in September in the Las Vegas Sands Convention Center, the optical industry generated a buzz across social media on various events including OptiCon @ Vision Expo, engaging education courses, the new EYE2EYE Series and more. Notably, the optical industry generated 28 million impressions using the hashtag #VisionExpo, an increase of 68 percent over 2018. Attendees also had the opportunity to explore a variety of topics from the Show’s diverse education offerings including the new myopia track with an interactive session curated by the Brien Holden Vision Institute. At the all-new Battle at the Sands: Case Challenges in Optometry competition, panelists presented cases highlighting imaging technology for a chance to win the audience’s votes. The second annual EyeStyle Influencer event, sponsored by The Vision Council, brought 40 optical industry media and social media influencers together to celebrate their work promoting eyewear and eyecare. Vision Expo West also provided the backdrop for two industry leaders to be recognized this year. The Vision Choice Award winner was Carl Zeiss Vision Inc., who was honored for their C-UV Protect
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Tablet that demonstrates whether eyewear has full ultraviolet (UV) protection. Additionally, the new TopVEW leaderboard program offered attendees the opportunity to vote for their favorite products and services on the Show Floor using the Vision Expo mobile app to scan unique QR codes displayed at each exhibitor booth. Safilo Group was announced as the first-ever “Best Product” award winner for the Kate Spade New York collection. The new destination, the BRIDGE, opened at Vision Expo West with a series of highly-attended events including the EYE2EYE Series keynote presentation with Piera Gelardi, Roberto Monaco’s Leadership Forum, fashion trends presentations, the Boutique Buyer panel and more. Next appointments will be in New York for Vision Expo East - March 26–29, 2020 - and in Las Vegas for Vision Expo West - Sept. 23–26, 2020.
INTERNATIONAL OPTICAL & OPHTHALMOLOGICAL PRODUCTS EXHIBITION
NOVEMBER
HALL 9-10-11 ISTANBUL EXPO CENTER-IFM / YEŞİLKÖY
diops 2019
At the 18th Daegu International Optical Show the Brands met overseas buyers from 31 countries
The 18th Daegu International Optical Show (diops 2019), held on April 19th in Daegu metropolitan city, Republic of Korea, is one of the three major optical shows in ASIA and received this year the record number of 11,457 visitors including around 1,600 overseas buyers from more than 31 countries. The aim of diops is not only to open the eyewear marketplace but also to support Korea eyewear industry. This year, diops secretariat attracted more than 30 new Korean young-generation companies and design brands through the government support program. The majority of visitors stated that the contents of diops 2019 totally progressed than last year’s.
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On the first day, diops hosted the “Global Summit Forum”. This event gave the opportunity to exchange information between global eyewear leaders. It involved country delegates and VIPs from Italy, France, China, Japan, Thailand, Malaysia, Taiwan, Vietnam, Philippines, Korea, etc. Participants listened to the special speech of Dante Carretti (MIDO Art Director) and enjoyed a networking party. One of the most important target for a trade exhibition organizer is to open business platforms able to bring together buyers and sellers. diops 2019 managed the “Overseas distribution business” program supported by Korean Central Government budget. During diops 2019, many
Korean optical brands were matched and negotiated with major overseas distributors from Thailand (Better Vision), Taiwan (Dengher Enterprise Co., Ltd) and Japan (Ginza Megane). With the result, KOIA will open these 3 Korean brands optical shops continuously in each country and promote Korea eyewear brands in local market by their promotion platform. The final winner of the “diops Awards” has been announced on the last day of show, MUZIK won this competition and gained the “Grand Prix” prize.
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Seven brands competed with their design, brand concept, products and booth concepts for about a month. The show, as usual, had enthusiastic support of Daegu metropolitan city government. “Colorful Daegu” is the slogan of Daegu metropolitan city and the host city of diops offered visitors a lot of attractions. Next year the 19th Daegu International Optical Show (diops 2020) will take place from 8th to 10th April 2020.
let’s meet in ISTANBUL The fist Istanbul Optical Fair-ISOF was held in 2013 to meet the important needs of the sector in Turkey. The show attracted the attention of many investors and led to the start of a joint venture with Silmo Paris in 2014. Elder brother of SILMO Family, SILMO Istanbul welcomes so, since 2014, the main actors of the optical industry coming non only from Turkey but also from many other countries. With its geographical location, Istanbul has proved to be an indispensable part of the optical trade as a unifying bridge between Europe, the Balkans, the Middle East, Central Asia and North Africa. International Silmo Istanbul Optical Fair has increased the total number of visitors to 10.784 in six fairs held since its inception in 2013 to the 2018 edition. With the participation of 50 new companies, the fair increased the total number
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of exhibitors (both national and international) by 25% to 155. Silmo Istanbul added the third hall and it serves in halls 9.-10. and 11. The number of international visitors of the Turkish fair has increased by 957% to 1956 and the number of national visitors has increased by 35% to 8828. In 2018, in halls 9 – 10. and 11, Silmo Istanbul
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Fair was a visual feast for its visitors with 674 brands. International Silmo Istanbul Optical Fair will be held on 21-24 November 2019 in Istanbul Expo Center Yeşilköy, and it will open its doors to the visitors with its claim “Everything About Eyewear” in halls 9 – 10. and 11.
“Business Meets Fashion” at SILMO Bangkok 2020 SILMO Bangkok 2020, the ASEAN optical fair announced that Hong Kong Optical Manufacturers Association (HKOMA), in collaboration with Hong Kong Productivity Council (HKPC), will organize the first ever Hong Kong pavilion, consisting 30 exhibitors, under the “Hong Kong Eyewear Good Design” project, at SILMO Bangkok 2020. The event will be held from 10 to 12 June 2020, at IMPACT Exhibition and Convention Centre, Bangkok, Thailand. Hong Kong participation will also be joined by other international groups and individual participation from over 14 countries including China, France, Korea, Italy, Taiwan and many more. SILMO Bangkok 2020, into its third edition under the theme “Business Meets Fashion”, has cemented its position as the gateway to ASEAN’s optical industry and market. SILMO Bangkok is the key industry platform and gathering place for industry professionals to learn, network and showcase their latest products, technologies and solutions. More than 250 eyewear brands; optical lenses; optometric instruments; equipment and machinery; optical equipment; as well as optical retail technology and solutions will be featured during the 3-day exhibition. In addition to the trade exhibition showcase, SILMO Bangkok 2020 will bring together industry players
and professionals from Thailand and ASEAN+6 and beyond, to attend a whole host of exciting activities, including: SILMO FASHION SHOW - Eyewear collections from global companies and brands will be unveiled at the SILMO Bangkok 2020 Fashion Show; BUSINESS MATCHING - An opportunity for exhibitors to meet key buyers and targeted audience to generate new sales leads, expand their business network and to build their brand presence to reach the Asian market; SILMO ARENA - A learning hub for marketing and sales strategies tailored for optical retailers; SILMO ACADEMY - A knowledge platform featuring experts from the optical industry to share their expertise and insights; SILMO BANGKOK EYEWEAR DESIGN CONTEST - Up-and-coming designers take center stage, to inspire with their most fashion forward creations; INNOVATIVE EYEWEAR & EYECARE TECHNOLOGY - Explore the next generation optical technology in eyewear and eyecare industry and discover new innovative optometric devices and machinery; and DESIGNER’S VILLAGE – A gathering of the best designs and start-ups for the business – from eyewear to shop fittings, sound to illumination, and everything else to elevate your customers’ retail experience.
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The International Opticians Association (IOA) announced on September 28, 2019 at SILMO Paris the winner of the Silmo IOA International Optician of the Year Award. This innovative award, first given at the 2018 Silmo d’OR Ceremony, recognises the importance of the optician in the optical business and their role in the choice of optimum products for their clientele. The winner, chosen from a competitive field, is Andrew Keirl, FBDO, of the United Kingdom, who started in optics in 1979 as a student dispensing optician with Dollond & Aitchison. Andrew now runs his own independent optical practice. Andrew’s practice is multi-disciplinary and offers clinics for stable glaucoma patients, post-operative clinics for patients following cataract surgery and a minor eye conditions service. This year Andrew was presented with Life Membership of the Association of British Dispensing Opticians, the highest honour awarded by the UK Professional Body for Dispensing Opticians.
Alessandro Spiezia, the Roman optician who counts many prestigious names among his clients and who is known throughout the world as “the Pope’s optician”, was also awarded by IOA for its exceptional contribution to the profession during the 2019 Silmo d’Or Ceremony
There are glasses that become icons and icons that wear glasses. In the case of Elton John and Silhouette the spark that caused the legend to flare was a charity concert for the English soccer team Watford Football Club held on May 5th, 1974 in Watford. The team’s players were nicknamed The Hornets (The Hornets) because of the uniform with yellow and black stripes. So, Elton John wanted to turn himself into a hornet for his performance. And he did it by choosing decidedly avant-garde glasses, a frame from the “Futura” collection by Silhouette. The model worn by the English rock star was decidedly voluminous and appropriate, with its 3 lenses, to evoke the eyes of a large insect.
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RETROSUPERFUTURE has partnered with the Italian rapper Ghali for a collab that offers a radical new interpretation of ‘Italianità’. Building creative partnerships with the most creative and outspoken artists has always been a part of RSF DNA, seen as an opportunity to experiment with new ideas, visual languages and aesthetics. This partnership is no different, featuring a statement design that captures Ghali vision and RSF pioneering style. Designed in close collaboration with Ghali, this exclusive line of sunglasses features a series of variations of RSF’s signature Sacro silhouette.
The MoMA in New York is the most famous modern and contemporary art museum in the world. The products of the MoMA Design Store reflect the Museum’s commitment to modern art, quality design and the discovery of a wide range of arts, artists, narratives and geographical locations. To celebrate the reopening of the MoMA in New York on October 21st, IZIPIZI has unveiled an exclusive variation of its SUN #C model, inspired by the color block theme. The models are available in all IZIPIZI stores, on izipizi.com and in the MoMA stores of museums in New York, Tokyo and Hong Kong.
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Maison Lafont celebrated forty years in business at this year’s Silmo. More than an anniversary, this milestone ushers in a new decade of design and innovation. Resolutely independent, the House continues to evolve its designs while preserving its core identity: a family business with an assertive style backed by French manufacturing. “40 years of Lafont, 40 years of color.” Being deeply rooted in the brand, color has been the cornerstone of the anniversary celebration. The launch of the Spring & Summer 2020 collection brought vibrant new colors and combinations. More, the special 40th Anniversary Collector’s Edition Box features iconic eyewear from the Lafont archives, reimagined for today. A nod to the 80’s, the decade where the Parisian brand started, new interpretations of classical P3 and Cay-Eye silhouette will be elegantly displayed. Lafont recognizes its valued partners, and their commitment to the brand. Without dedicated independent retailers, this milestone would not be possible. To help celebrate the next chapter in Lafont history, the brand is launching a new program for their partner opticians and optometrists– L’Atelier Couleurs.
Denmark’s first optician shop is
sustainable open. Danish Monkeyglasses has designed and produced sustainable frames for 10 years, always from biodegradable cotton fibers and recycled stainless steel. They have distributed the designs through dealers in 12 countries, and now they have their own physical flagshop in Copenhagen, complete with sustainable frames, eco-friendly contact lenses and cozy recycled furniture.
Their Zero Waste accessories are made from surplus materials from their production and the eyeglass washing kit with organic coconut soap and hand-tied washing brush.
Kering Eyewear and Safilo announced the renewal of their agreement for the manufacturing and supply of Gucci branded products. The three-year partnership will come into effect starting January 2021, providing complete continuity to the previous contract expiring December 2020. The long-term partnership builds on Safilo’s product expertise, established over its 85-year history, and confirms both companies’ commitment to the territory and to Made in Italy production.
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Marcolin Group has created a Longines collection of eyeglasses and sunglasses for men and women. The models incorporate multiple style elements that recall Longines watches and craftsmanship and are inspired by the traditional values of the brand. Sunglasses are classified into three segments: “Classic”, “Heritage” and “Sport”. Marcolin Group, after the launch of the first sunglasses collection in 2016, also presented a new line of sunglasses and eyeglasses models for men and women with the Omega brand. The collection will be available from November 2019.
Massimo Renon, CEO Marcolin Group
Victoria Beckham Eyewear globally
Marchon Eyewear, Inc. and Lanvin S.A.
introduces a new women’s sun and optical collection, designed in keeping with the ethos of the Victoria Beckham brand.
entered into an exclusive, long-term global licensing agreement for sun and optical eyewear under the Lanvin brand name.
The new collection is handmade in Italy. Classic aviators are reimagined with hammered metal trim, a cat-eye is modernised with a focus on the brow, while tortoiseshell styles create rich contrast through navy and burgundy lenses. The nine optical styles echo this aesthetic with streamlined and oversized styles.
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The first men’s and women’s eyewear collections are scheduled for global release in September 2020. In advance of that, a capsule collection comprised of four sunglasses, will be previewed in March 2020. Marchon Eyewear started collaborating with Lanvin’s Creative Director, Bruno Sialelli, to develop and manufacture sunglasses for the Lanvin Spring 2020 runway show held in Paris, which will be exclusively sold through Lanvin’s flagship stores.
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The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - November 2019
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