Corsica Self Guided Road Trip

This free travel guide contains the first 2 days of our travel guide of beautiful Corsica, with a self guided walking tour of Ajaccio.

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Introduction

Corsica is truly a whole world in miniature. Everything is here, from modern cities rich in culture and history to breathtaking scenery coastal bays, beaches, and rugged cliffs blending into an interior of marvellous mountains and dramatic gorges. Little mountain villages dot the landscape of the interior in an almost ridiculously picturesque way, while on the coast, traditional fishing villages and tourist resorts co-exist fairly happily for the most part.

Corsica is perfect for slow travel. Though this guide will give you an itinerary that can be completed in as few as ten days, you could easily spend much longer and still not have exhausted the island's near-endless supply of things to see and do. The tour outlined below is designed to be undertaken by car, but should you have more time, there is nothing to stop anyone from enjoying a slightly adapted route by bike. Of course, Corsica is also famous for walking and hiking. This guide aims to give you a good taste of the delights on offer.

While for some the beautiful beaches are the main attraction, this guide is perfect for those who enjoy doing a little more with their holidays than lying in the sun. That’s fine for a while perhaps, but as this guide shows, there are many other things to see and do for those with a more cultural frame of mind.

As the following 10-day tour demonstrates, Corsica is perfect for history lovers and for those who love to immerse themselves in a culture, seeing all the things there are to see and experiencing the atmosphere in a range of different locations.

Corsica is a popular holiday destination, and yet it is very possible to escape the crowds, even if you come in mid-summer. While the beaches and the main walking trail, the GR20, will likely be rather busy during peak season, there are plenty of out-of-the-way spots across the island where you will often find yourself entirely alone. This is especially true if you venture to some of the more remote mountainsides and mountain villages.

Enjoy your time in Corsica, and remember, this 10-day tour of the island is merely the beginning. Corsica will surely call you to return before too long.

• Total distance: 1080 km

DAY 1: AJACCIO WALKING TOUR

• Distance: 3.2 km

• Starting Point: Musée Fesch

• Finishing Point: Bois des Anglais

Corsica's capital Ajaccio is an intoxicating place. Classy and confident, it has more than a little in common with the cities of the Cote d'Azur. There is an interesting centre and a bustling marina. In 1769, this was the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, a largerthan-life figure who still looms large here. There are plenty of sites related to this historic figure, as well as a range of other sites and museums.

 GPS: 41.9192, 8.7386

If you decided to hire a car at the airport, then you may be able to park at your accommodation in Ajaccio. If you need to find somewhere to park, there is parking opposite the main tourist information office, which is located on the D111A (GPS: 41.919821, 8.738308). From the tourist information office, head north on the D111A (Boulevard du Roi Jérôme), then turn left onto Rue Jérôme Péri after 180 m. Turn right onto Rue Cardinal Fesch and you will find the starting point for your walking tour on the right after around 37 m.

The fine arts museum, Musée Fesch, is one of the main cultural hubs in Ajaccio. It houses the painting and sculpture collection of Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon I's uncle. Here you will find a fine range of art within a grand, gated palace.

 Musée Fesch, 50-52 Rue Cardinal Fesch // GPS: 41.9219, 8.7389 // See website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.musee-fesch.com/index.php/musee_fesch/English

Turn right upon exiting the museum and you will see the Imperial Chapel, which forms the southern flank of the square on which you will find yourself.

To the right of Fesch Palace you will find this Imperial Chapel. It was commissioned by emperor Napoleon III at the behest of the will of his great uncle, Cardinal Fesch, and consecrated in 1860. The design was by architect Alexis Paccard, and the structure was erected between 1857 and 1859 for a total cost of 175,000 francs

 GPS: 41.9219, 8.7389 // http://en.infotourisme.net/monument/ajaccio/6565/chapelle-imperiale

Head south on Rue Cardinal Fesch and you will reach Place Foch. You will see a fountain ahead of you.

This square, also commonly known as Piazza Palmiers in honour of the palm trees that skirt its borders is one of the city’s main squares. It takes the name Place Foch from a well-known French field general. This is a preferred meeting place for the city’s residents. It is flanked by the City Hall and has at its centre a large statue of Napoleon Bonaparte. In July and August you can see the changing of the guard. There is also a produce market here where fresh goods can be purchased

 GPS: 41.918922, 8.738725 // www.visit-corsica.com/en/Our-favorites/Towns-and-villages/Place-Foch-in-Ajaccio

Musée Fesch, Ajaccio - © Wikimedia

Once you have had a good look around the square and market, head to the southwest of the square and take Rue Bonaparte, heading southeast. After 63 m, turn right onto Rue Saint-Charles, and you will see your next destination on your left after around 30 m.

Maison Bonaparte is the ancestral home of the Bonaparte family. It was owned by that family almost continuously from 1682 – 1923. The home was first owned by Napoleon Bonaparte's great-great-grandfather Guiseppe. Descendant Prince Victor Napoleon donated the house to the French government, and it was made into a museum in 1967.

 Maison Bonaparte, Rue Saint-Charles// GPS: 41.9180, 8.7386 // See website for opening hours // Paid entry // http://musees-nationaux-malmaison.fr/musee-maisonbonaparte/

Walk southwest on Rue Saint-Charles and then after 110 m, turn left onto Rue Forcioli Conti, and the cathedral will be on your left.

Napoleon in Roman garb at Place Foch - © Shutterstock

Ajaccio Cathedral, officially called the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption of Ajaccio, is an ecclesiastical building in the baroque/mannerist style. The cathedral that stands today was constructed between 1577 and 1593. It is attributed to the Italian architect Giacomo della Porta.

 Ajaccio Cathedral, Rue Forcioli Conti // GPS: 41.9173, 8.7378

Walk southeast on Rue Forcioli Conti for 150 m, and you will see the citadel ahead of you.

Without a doubt one of the most interesting of Ajaccio's historical sites, the Chemin des crêtes Citadelle was built on the location of a former fort in 1492, when a number of Genoese and Ligurian families including the Bonapartes founded a colony. In its earliest iteration, the complex was made up of a citadel and a low curtain wall. It was later enhanced with stronger defensive structures. The citadelle belonged to the Ministry of Defence until it came under the ownership of the city of Ajaccio in 2005.

 GPS: 41.9164, 8.7392

Ajaccio Cathedral - © Shutterstock

If you wanted to at this stage, you could take a break on the beach below. However, if you would rather continue your explorations, retrace your steps to the northwest along the Rue Forcioli Conti. Pass the cathedral and continue on, remaining on that road for about 210 m before turning right into Avenue Eugène Macchini. After 120 m, turn left onto Avenue de Paris (D11). As you walk west you will see the Place de Gaulle to your left.

The Napoleonic theme of this city continues at the busy square, the Place de Gaulle, which has at its heart a monument to Napoleon and his four brothers. The monument was constructed in 1965. Originally, the monument faced towards the sea, though a few years after it was placed there, it was turned to face the town.

 GPS: 41.9180, 8.7360

Continue to walk along Avenue de Paris (D11) and follow the D11 for around 1.1 km, then enter the Place d'Austerlitz to take a look at La Grotte de Napoléon.

Napoleon, surrounded by his four brothers, Place de Gaulle, Ajaccio - © Shutterstock

At Place d'Austerlitz, you will find another monument to Napoleon, a statue modelled after the one found in Les Invalides. It is the work of the sculptor Seurre. The monument was placed here in 1938, where, it is said, Napoleon used to spend time as a child. It recalls the emperor’s victories and achievements.

 GPS: 41.916417, 8.723626

Keep walking alongside the D11 for around 400 m, then turn left at the roundabout and follow signs for Bois des Anglais. From here you have access to a far-reaching network of hiking paths.

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A pleasant trail, Sentiers des Cretes will allow you to leave behind the hustle and bustle of the city centre and enjoy some quiet in the woods. A gentle hike is the perfect way to end your day in Ajaccio. Take a short walk to the Bois des Anglais (Woods of the English) or walk farther to reach a number of interesting scenic spots.

 GPS: 41.918189, 8.724940

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That concludes your walking tour of Ajaccio, but you should be sure to spend plenty of time enjoying all the hiking trails that spread out from the town. Remember to cover your head and bring plenty of water with you when the weather is warm, especially at the height of summer, when it can be very hot.

Ajaccio walking tour (1/2)

Ajaccio walking tour (2/2)

 Looking for a hotel near Ajaccio? Click here for special offers.

DAY 2: AJACCIO > CALVI

Today you will leave Ajaccio behind and make your way northwards up Corsica’s meandering west coast. You will see some breathtaking scenery and the unspoiled natural beauty of much of this fascinating island. What is more, you will pass through settlements and see the blend of old and new that make this place what it is today.

• Distance: 182 km

• Starting Point: Ajaccio

• Finishing Point: Calvi

• Highlights:

• Cathedral of Sant’Appiano

• Cargèse

• Chiuni Beach

• Calanche of Piana

• Capo d’Orto

• Porto

• Scandola Nature Reserve

• Spelunca Gorges

• Osani

• Galèria

To reach your first destination, join the D81 to the north of Ajaccio and follow that for 36.6 km before taking a right turn into Sagone. The town itself is largely a modern tourist town built around its beautiful beach. Just one km north of Sagone, however, you will find one remnant of thisplace’s past the ruins of Sant' Appiano Cathedral.

The ancient Cathedral of Sant’Appiano, now in ruins, was built in the Romanesque style. It dates from the 12th century and was built on top of an earlier Christian church. The cathedral was devastated by pirates in the 16th century. Once the cathedral was said to have contained the preserved remains of Saint Appian, though these relics were transported to Pavia to keep them safe from Saracen invaders in the 12th century. Archaeologists have found fifty skeletons here that date from the 11th century.

 GPS: 42.118398, 8.690132

Rejoin the D81 and follow that road for just over 13 km to reach your next destination, the town of Cargèse.

Cargèse is one of the picturesque towns dotted along this stretch of coastline. The town perches on the hillside above a beautiful bay. The town was established at the end of the 18th century by a group of descendants of Greek immigrants who had settled elsewhere on Corsica a hundred years before. This tourist town is famous for its two 19thcentury churches, which face each other across a small valley. One was built by descendents of the Greek immigrants, the other by native Corsicans.

Of course there are beautiful beaches all along this coastline, but your next stop is generally regarded as one of the most appealing. To reach it, head north on the D81 for 5 6 km, then turn left. After 1 km more, take a slight right. Turn right after 600 m, and your destination will be on the left.

 GPS: 42.136, 8.595

Cargèse - © Shutterstock

Chiuni Beach, a pleasant, sandy beach is bordered by mastic shrubs and has a quiet feel, in spite of the holiday village to its rear. Here, you can relax and enjoy the sun or indulge in some more active water-based activities. This is a pleasant place to break up your road trip.

 GPS: 42.170311, 8.591277

Return to the D81 once more and continue for 12 8 km or so, and you will find yourself in Piana, the starting point for exploration of the stunningly scenic Calanches of Piana

At the Calanches of Piana, dramatic inlets of red stone rise sharply into interesting rock formations and towering spires along this stretch of coastline, jutting up in stark and beautiful contrast to the sparkling blue waters below. These calanches truly make up one of the most dramatic and exciting landscapes on the island, and their granite edifices must be seen to be believed.

 GPS: 42.2455, 8.6535

Les Calanches de Piana - © Shutterstock

If you wish to explore a little more deeply and are up for a hike, then the Capo d'Orto, the second highest summit of the Calanches of Piana offers not only a chance to see some of the rocky landscape up close but also to enjoy wonderful views over the whole region. Trails lead from Piana to the summit of Capo d'Orto.

Capo d'Orto rises only to a height of 1,294 m, and so it is certainly not one of the grandest mountains out there. However, this peak, one of the red granite edifices of the Calanches de Piana, makes it something truly special, with staggering views. It rises steeply above the Gulf of Porto and offers views out over the awe-inspiring area. This is a challenging hike, but those with less time, energy, or experience can choose many other less challenging hikes in the vicinity.

 GPS: 42.226637, 8.688758// Information at Tourist Information Office in Piana

Once you have had a good look at the Calanches of Piana and perhaps enjoyed a hike, return to your car in Piana and continue on the D81 into Porto.

The small village of Porto is a charming spot, nestled on the coast with a spectacular mountainous and rocky backdrop. This is a place that can get very busy in the height of summer, but even when the crowds descend, it still has a pleasant feel. Here you will find a watchtower built in the 16th century that contains a small museum, and a lovely marina and town beach.

 GPS: 42.265602, 8.706117

From Porto (book a trip in the small marina) or Galéria, you can take a boat ride to see the coastline of the Scandola Nature Reserve, which is not very accessible by land. This is the best way to enjoy the unspoiled beauty and nature of this part of the island.

The Scandola Nature Reserve, a part of the Corsica National Park, was established in 1975. It is also recognised as a world heritage site. The area covers 19 2 km², an area comprising both land and sea. The area's inaccessibility by road means that by far the ideal way to see the best of it is a boat trip around the coastline. Many beautiful caves and coves dot the cliffs and headlands, and spectacular natural sites are seen at every turn.

 GPS: 42.356944, 8.566667 // http://parc-corse.org

Next, you will head inland from Porto to visit the Spelunca Gorges. To do so, head east from Porto on the D124. You will get to the Gorges of Spelunca through lovely scenery in around 7 km.

Even if you are not a particularly keen hiker, you should still make sure you take the time to enjoy another of Corsica's most stunningly beautiful landscapes. The Gorges de Spelunca are usually explored from Ota, heading in the direction of Evisa, or vice versa. An old mule track leads between the two villages. Bring a picnic to enjoy in one of the scenic spots along the way.

 GPS: 42.2546, 8.7655

Complete your loop by continuing on the D124 and then taking the D84 back to Porto. From there, head north to Osani, following D81 on its winding way for around 21 km, after which you will be able to turn left into a car park and walk to the beautiful little village and to a viewpoint.

If you are looking for a nice beach on which to relax, in Osani take route D424 and drive a south for about 4 km. Try the beach, Plage de Gradelle, near Osani. This small beach of pebbles and rocks is very pleasant to visit. It has amazing views of the Calanches (GPS: 42.303091,8.647348)

Road from Porto to Osani - © Peter Rintels

The tiny, picturesque village of Osani will give you a taste of the unspoiled Corsica, free from tourist crowds and little changed in a long, long time. Simply stroll through this tiny settlement and enjoy the breathtaking views from the nearby viewpoint Inland Corsica moves at a slower pace, so take your time and enjoy the tranquillity.

 GPS: 42.3244, 8.6323

To reach your penultimate destination for the day, return to the D81 and follow it north once more for just over 25 km. Continue straight onto the D351, then after 3.3 km, you will reach the little village of Galéria.

Galéria is one of the small tourist villages scattered along the Corsican coast. It has a pebble beach, which is unusual for the island, so the water is especially clear. Here you will also find a pleasant harbour, a church, a Genoese tower, and coastal paths leading along the shoreline for lovely strolls or longer hikes.

 GPS: 42.4089, 8.6482

Goats on road, near Galéria - © Peter Rintels

Return along the D351 to the D81 and then simply continue on the D81 for a further 31 km to reach the beautiful seaside resort of Calvi, where you will find plenty of wonderful places to stay for the night. Don't worry if you have no time left to explore today you will have all day tomorrow to acquaint yourself with this charming part of Corsica.

 Looking for a hotel near Calvi? Click here for special offers.

This free travel guide contains the first 2 days of our travel guide of beautiful Corsica, with a self guided walking tour of Ajaccio.

Save hours of searching, we already did the fieldwork for you!

Buy the complete travel guide (PDF – 89 pages A4, easy to print or read on tablet), and explore Corsica with lots of practical information and tips by locals.

 Buy the complete guide on shop.themediabay.be/en

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Latest update: August 2017

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