algarvePLUS - April '23

MORE TO CELEBRATE THAN YOU EVER IMAGINED

Isn’t it wonderful how spirits lift when the sun comes out – and stays out – and the days get longer? The beach beckons, the hills welcome, and it’s time to get out and go on a journey of discovery. There is so much to see and experience in our chosen homeland, and spring is the perfect season, not too hot, certainly not cold – just right in fact. The countryside is gold and gorgeous, decked out with mimosa trees in full bloom, and the towns and cities need little excuse to get into party mode.

Easter, of course, is celebration big time here, in some places deeply religious, combining tradition with long-held beliefs. Elsewhere, it’s more like playtime, with fairs and festas and foodie treats.

In this issue, food is very much in focus – whether you are in Porto and keen to try something new (page 10); in Madeira, where one chef is promoting the archipelago by inviting mainland colleagues to share their Michelin-star knowledge (page 71); or closer to home in the Algarve, trying out the lesser-known eateries in Albufeira (page 30, and yes, the ones the tourists haven’t discovered). If you want to treat your guests to a custom-made poke bowl (a current favourite of ours), we have the woman who will do it for you (page 9). And then, of course, there’s our sommelier’s wine choice for Easter eating (page 20). Sandwiched between all that, we introduce you to different destinations, local creative talents, people who make a difference, and those worth listening to for top-notch advice, events for your diary. There’s more to enjoy than ever.

Coral earrings? Nope, these are made from dried mushrooms, a concept only the hugely talent designer Vera Manzoni could come up with. These are super light, and come in a choice of colours. A €45 treasure. veramanzoni.com

The Luz Editions lighting collection focuses on simple and timeless shapes; each model is made by hand and reveals the know-how and ancestral techniques of the craftsmen with whom Paula, the Luz Editions founder, chooses to collaborate. These pendant lights have an authentic spirit and because they are precious, they are made to order to be cherished and passed on. Exclusively in Olhão at Zé e Maria or at luzeditions.com

FRONT COVER:

Couldn’t resist these. Newly laid eggs, without a hint of chocolate. Easter without the calories

Frances Gould of Olhão gallery Sala Simbahas has curated a stunning collection of vintage Anatolian nomadic rugs, jijims and carpets, mostly Turkmen, all hand-loomed by women, and using only natural vegetable dyes. As the nomadic life declines, these pieces from the 60s, 70s and 80s represent an almost-vanished way of life, where every carpet tells the story of the weaver, her tribe and their love for the nomadic way of life. View by appointment 918 727 242. €395–€1,500.

Traditionally, Lent-breaking feasts were carried in baskets to church to be blessed by a priest. But really, one doesn’t need a special occasion to buy a beautiful artisanal basket – ethically sourced and curated from remote villages around the world. Just go to Alamaya in Moncarapacho where you’ll be spoiled for choice. instagram.com/alamaya.deco

Outdoor treats, waterproof USB lights with internal speakers. 70cm high €375; 55cm high €287. From Sarah Nicollier Interiors in Albufeira. sarahnicollieruk.com

Eggs that will last far longer than the chocolate ones! In ceramic, with a gleaming sheen that replicates marble, it is a year-round beaut, 24cm high, €45. There are other sizes, too. Equilibrio Interiors, Almancil. equilibriointeriors.com

Jessica Dunn’s enchanting illustrations for a German children’s book by Silvia Cavelti, Das Mandarin Entchen das Glaubte ein Huhn zu sein (The Mandarin Duck Who Thought He Was a Chicken), are available for purchase. There are 12 images – originals, acrylic on paper, 30x42cm framed are €350; high quality prints are in two sizes, 15x21cm in an A4 mount, €22, and 21x29.5cm in A3 mount, €35. The hardback book is €25 – an English version PDF is available. 962 544 660, info@jessicadunnart.com

Elegant gold-effect leaf statue that will enhance any room and every setting. 10x62x1cm. €95. Oliveira Décor, Tavira. byoliveira.com

Kozii Fashion and Interiors has opened its fifth store. Nestled in one of Olhão’s most ancient historical buildings, Casa Pires, it blends in perfectly, surrounded by the ancient-thatmeets-the-new kind of beauty. Get lost in its worlds of textures, colours, patterns and scents accompanied by its cared-for playlists and most attentive staff. Blending contemporary sensibilities with long-lived printing and weaving traditions, it is hardly surprising that Kozii is first choice for many. Open every day 10:00–14:00 and 15:00–19:00 (that gives you time for lunch at Cha Cha Cha next door). Rua Teófilo Braga, 19 8700-520 Olhão.

3D opal egg in iridescent glass, mirror, resin and inks on a painted board, 50x40. The work of Andrea M Bird, @andrea–b–designs. €850 andrea-b-designs.com

Ready for a poke? Joann Badenhorst Perring has come up with the DIY poke bowl that your guests will love, and they can assemble their own if they choose, according to personal preferences. The ingredients are superfresh and healthy as is Jo’s variation of Ponzo sauce. The base of this great dish is vinegared sushi rice, which can be topped with raw marinated tuna/ salmon/or local fresh fish, edamame beans, spring onions, carrots, avocado, cucumber, nori, red onion, mung beans, pineapple, mango and sesame seeds. Everything is prepared by Jo in your home. Once you’ve had a poke, you’ll be back for more.

926 916 073

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

PORTUGAL’S SECOND BIGGEST CITY GROWS ON YOU. IT HAS HISTORY, PERSONALITY, CHARM AND EXCITEMENT, AND IT GETS MORE INTERESTING EVERY DAY. IT MAY BE SECOND IN RANKING, BUT IT’S NEVER SECOND BEST. HERE’S JUST A TASTER

Words: SANDRA GATO

Oh Porto

This page: The extraordinary meat, mushroom and truffle rissole at Brasão. Opposite, top left clockwise: Pinks and reds for blossoming romance, at Torel Avangarde; Chef Vitor Matos of Blind takes you on an adventure of flavours, textures and surprises; Brasão decor is warm and inviting; Village by Boa is an island of what was once workmen’s cottages

IT WASN’T LOVE at first sight for me. Not because of the weather – more similar to north european shores like the British ones (and, according to some, one of the reasons why the city has long had a special relationship with Britain – Port wine, for starters) – but because it has a kind of brutal honesty that can be felt as rudeness when you’re young, and a bit superficial.

But when you allow yourself to go a bit deeper, you cannot help loving a city where you are welcomed with open arms – even, as in my case, when you are from Lisbon (the eternal rival!) – and where you discover friends for life.

Porto is real, an ‘in your face’ kind of city that keeps you coming back for more. It bewitches you and makes you promise you will never leave. You do leave, but already making plans to come back as soon as possible.

And then, as with any place or person you love, you have rituals, special moments that you like to revisit. But that doesn’t stop you from falling in love with new inspiring projects and ideas that seem to appear out of nowhere everytime you go away.

Not so many years ago, there weren’t many incredible places to stay in Porto. One of the first ones to open, in 2017, with a totally different approach was Torel Avangarde (Rua da Restauração, 336. Tel: 220 110 082). Located in a privileged location, with top views of Douro river, it has a classical exterior but a very modern heart.

Each of the rooms (60 in total) is dedicated to a famous personality within the art world, be it fashion, film, writing, design or dance. This time round, I was lucky enough to stay in another building, with 11 rooms, that was added to the original one – namely the suite dedicated to the actress and inventor Hedy Lamarr, born in 1914.

Decorated in dark, warm colours with splashes of femininity (like the pink sofá in the living room), it

has a big bath tub next to the windows that deliver Porto at your feet.

This is the kind of hotel that is relaxed but royal at the same time. And, believe me, although you’re surrounded by art, the view – boats up and down the river, the change of light throughout the day, the rooftops of the old traditional houses – is more than enough to keep you mesmerized.

But because Porto can be so many things, it’s impossible not to fall in love with a new kind of accommodation in town, Village by Boa (Rua do Bonjardim, 541. Tel: 910 985 706). Right in the middle of the city, in the Trindade area, it used to be known as Bairro do Silva, a so-called ‘ilha’ (a housing complex where industrial workers used to live). It is believed that these ‘islands’ were inspired by British back-to-back style houses.

At Boa, five entire buildings were transformed into 40 apartments that give you all the comfort you can ask for, but keeping the ‘ilha’ feeling.

The idea is that this is your home away from home. There is no reception, you are given a pin number to enter and you decide, online, at what time you want breakfast to be delivered at your door in the morning. There is also a penthouse on the last floor of the tallest bulding, called The Space by Boa that can be rented for special occasions (meetings, birthday dinners, etc). Soon there will be a food store with local products so you can cook your own meal (all apartments include a fullyequipped kitchen).

But if cooking is not in the plan, Porto has an immensity of options (one of the other reasons I take the train up north so many times), traditional or not.

Last time, I tried Blind (Rua de Entreparedes 40. Tel: 226 001 580). As the name implies, you

Porto is real, an ‘in your face’ kind of city that keeps you coming back for more... and as soon as possible

must let yourself go, not ask too many questions beforehand, eyes wide shut so to speak.

You can choose between a ten- or 12-moments menu and chef Vitor Matos (Michelin star in another restaurant in town and, in my modest opinion, another will be coming very soon to this one) and his team will take you on a wonderful journey of flavours, textures and surprises. With suggestive names like Candlelight, Under the Skin, Marine Garden or Memories from my Childhood, brace youself for one of the most intense gastronomic nights of your life. Provocative, experimental, sexy.

But if you just feel like tasting one of the best Francesinhas (the famous dish made of a very rich meat and egg sandwich covered in a thick hot sauce) in town, head for Brasão (there are already five around Porto: Aliados, Coliseu, Foz, Salgueiros e Antas. I went to the most recent opening, in Avenida Fernão de Magalhães 1530. Tel: 913 807 372).

The purpose here is to get past and present (flavours, dishes, ambiences) to meet in an easy way. Besides the already mentioned bestseller, the Francesinha (well balanced and delicious), there’s the rissóis – the meat, mushroom and truffle is an absolute must – the fried onion and the rice chips with hot sauce that taste even better with a craft beer (many great ones to choose from in the menu).

Heading for Porto? We’ve focused on food here but there are so many must-visit sights in and around this glorious city. Check out visitporto. travel and also introducingporto.com and Viator. com – all of which detail the key highlights and the many sightseeing and side trip options to, among others, Guimãres and Braga, Coimbra, Aveiro and the Peneda-Gerês National Park.

New passions, old loves

CASA SÃO ROQUE –ART CENTRE

It is a new find for me – and already on top of my favourites list – but has been there for a while, since 1759, to be precise. Part of Quinta da Lameira, it was built as a manor and hunting house and later it became the property of one of the Port wine families and got the name Casa Ramos Pinto. Now it is an art centre. Until September there’s an Emily Wardill exhibition (Hourless and at Large) showing, but what I truly love about this place is the house itself, full of amazing details, and the beautiful gardens, with a maze included.

W: casasroque.art

MUSEU ROMÂNTICO

Part of Museu do Porto – they call it the Romanticism Extension – this is a place I like to go just to see beautiful things and think of nothing (we all have those kinds of days, right?). Located near Palácio de Cristal and with beautiful river views gardens, it is an old country house, built in the 18th century. It become a museum in 1972 with the purpose of showcasing the ambiance of a 19th-century bourgeoisie home. You can visit all the furnished rooms and get the feeling how it was to live in times that were more romantic.

W: museudacidadedoporto.pt

CASA GUEDES

This is the place to go when you just need a delicious boost to keep you going for a couple more hours walking around the city. It’s famous snack is a sandwich (can be eaten with fries or not) made of pernil (pig leg) and Serra da Estrela cheese. A weird combination? Only before trying one! This is the kind of traditional delicacy that will make you go back to Porto time and time again!

W: casaguedes.pt

BATALHA CENTRO DE CINEMA

It has been a film centre for decades with a complex and, at times, sad history that saw it close its doors many times. A beautiful building now totally restored, you can go and watch historic movies in a very special environment for cinema lovers. A wonderful plus: the Júlio Pomar paintings (that were sadly once covered) are again visible and honoured as they should be.

W: batalhacentrodecinema.pt

Left: Porto boasts six bridges, the most famous being the Ponte Dom Luís. Left below: By the pool of the Torel Avangarde, with views down the Douro. This page: Below: A sandwich like no other at Casa Guedes. Bottom: The Batalha Centro de Cinema

Feeling festive

IT’S NEARLY EASTER. FROM TRADITIONAL FOODS TO HISTORIC AND RELIGIOUS RITUALS, HERE’S WHAT GOES ON AROUND THE COUNTRY AT THIS MUCH-CELEBRATED TIME

Words: SALLY DIXON

EASTER SIGNALS that summer is well on the way and there’s no better time to make the most of the sun-filled days than getting involved in some of Portugal’s many elaborate seasonal celebrations.

Easter (Páscoa) is a pretty big deal here – major cities, small towns and little villages across the country all have their own style of celebration, some deeply religious, others more about coming together for family fun, which means there is something for everyone.

Food, of course, plays a big role in the Easter celebrations. Sample and enjoy it all, from tasty

Folar da Páscoa (a traditional sweet or savoury Easter bread), sugarcoated almonds and chocolate eggs to roast lamb, boiled potatoes and roast chestnuts for Easter Sunday lunch, bacalhau (salted cod) on Good Friday and the traditional Pão-de-Ló cake dessert.

Easter celebrations start early in Portugal, the week before Easter Sunday, in fact, on Palm Sunday, which means there’s plenty going on and often something different every day.

Age-old, deeply-rooted traditions are a key part of the festivities with grand processions that local communities take part in after months of shared planning. And they are a beautiful sight, rich in meaning, elaborate in presentation. Some are sombre, serious and focused on communicating the religious message, others are a vibrant expression of colour and joy, an excuse to party and enjoy region-specific gastronomic delights that, in certain places, are a once-a-year speciality.

Join us on a journey…

Opposite page, top left clockwise: Okay, fairly obvious, chocolate and sugary eggs; Braga Cathedral filled with flowers and candles for Easter week; Portugal’s easter cake, the folares; Just one part of Braga’s Easter procession. This page, The Virgin Mother is carried back to her hilltop home in Loulé in the Festa da Mãe Soberana, the ‘Big Festival’. Thousands turn out to see one of the country’s biggest processions

BRAGA

2–9 April

Holy Week, or Semanta Santa as it is known, is a serious, religious celebration in Braga, and rightly so given that Braga is not only the oldest Portuguese city but one of the oldest Christian cities in the world and is the country’s main religious centre. The celebrations here date back to the 4th century. Get involved with the city’s wonderful sacred traditions for Holy Week, starting with the Blessing and Procession of the Branches on 2 April all the way through to Easter Sunday Solemn Mass at the Cathedral. The city is decorated for the occasion with flowers and lights filling the steps and street-side altars, enhancing the beauty of a city filled with baroque churches, stunning architecture and beautiful gardens. An estimated 100,000 tourists will step foot in Braga during Holy Week, so a lively atmosphere is guaranteed.

ÓBIDOS

2–9 April

In the picturesque medieval town of Óbidos, north of Lisbon, they recreate the last moments of Jesus Christ on the Sacred Road. If it’s impressive processions you’re looking for then Óbidos is the place to be. The first procession, Procession of the Third Order of St. Francis, is centuries-old and takes place at the beginning of Lent with an abundance of flower decorations. Good Friday sees the highlight of Holy Week with the Funeral Procession of the Lord, lit by torches along the route.

LOULÉ

4 April and 18 April

The Festa da Mãe Soberana (Feast of the Sovereign Mother) takes place on Easter Sunday in Loulé, where eight men dressed in white will carry a statue of the Virgin Mary to the Church of São Francisco. Two weeks later, the main attraction in Loulé and one of the biggest processions in the country sees the Virgin Mary statue carried through the streets once more in the Festa Grande (Big Festival). Expect an accompanying band and fireworks finale.

CONSTÂNCIA

7–10 April

Every year at Easter, the beautiful and colourful boat processions of the Festival of Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem (Festival of Our Lady of Good Travel) are not to be missed. A celebration of the river traffic that has, for centuries, brought goods to and from the port of Constância. The Feast and Blessing of the Boats in the rivers Tejo and Zêzere takes place on Easter Monday but a whole host of events and musical programmes make up this exciting time in the village, known as the Festas of the Municipality of Constância.

The procession at Obidos is part of a full week’s programme that includes a torch-lit parade on Good Friday

SARDOAL

3–17 April

Not far from Constância is Sardoal, where Holy Thursday is the main event thanks to the impressive Fogaréus (Procession of the Lord of Mercy) that sees all street-lighting in the village turned off, guided by the light of candles and torches only. The Covent of Santa Maria da Caridade is also lit by 600 lamps, making it a breathtaking (if not a little eerie) sight. Local people get creative in the run up to Holy Week by making beautiful, natural flower carpets featuring images of birds, candles, crosses, etc on display in the chapels and churches of the village for all to see. Well worth a visit to be immersed in this captivating atmosphere.

CASTELO DE VIDE

2–10 April

Easter in Castelo de Vide has a unique twist thanks to the mixing of Catholic traditions with parts of Jewish culture, a nod to the town’s rich history.

The celebrations have two parts, from Palm Sunday to Good Friday featuring more Catholic traditions, then from the evening of Good Friday to Easter Monday where the Jewish history plays a part. Throughout Holy Week, you will find lots of activities and specially organised events to add to the religious celebrations. You may even see the local shepherds who, on the morning of Easter eve, head to the town to take part in the Blessing of the Lambs and have their flocks of sheep blessed, a tradition that is unique to this north Alentejo town.

Easter Sunday sees the main event of the Resurrection Procession, involving the mixing of local age-old professions (carpenters, stone masons, cobblers, etc) and more modern-day ones.

USEFUL INFORMATION

semanasantabraga.com / semanasantaobidos.pt / castelodevide.pt/2754/semana-santa / visitportugal.com/en/node/457733 turismo.cm-sardoal.pt/index.php/pt/patrimonio-religioso/semana-santa cm-loule.pt/pt/agenda/24450/festa-da-mae-soberana.aspx

In the nick of time

IWALKED OUT of the door, down the path and sat on the beach. It was the year 2000 and I had just arrived in Carvoeiro, and admittedly the walk was quite a long one, as I was sitting on Benagil Beach. The sun was setting. The cliffs were golden and if you live in the Algarve and haven’t experienced sunset on these cliffs, you should!

My mind wandered and I dreamed about being able to paddle out and around these coves. I had heard there were secret voluminous caves as well. Little did I know that the biggest one was lurking only 100m to the east of exactly where I was sitting. I dreamed about owning a kayak and paddling these caves and over the years I did manage to go on a few boat tours but nothing prepared me for the first time I really explored these caves on my own.

Some 15 years later, I had created Algarve SUP – a stand up paddle board touring company – and it was our obligation to know our territory. So, after initial adventures, taking a month off and exploring the Algarve’s rivers, lakes and dams, I launched off a secret little beach very close to Senhora da Rocha.

It was perfect weather as the wind tends to blow offshore in the mornings (north wind) and then about 12:00 it would switch to a westerly and slowly increase all afternoon. So, heading out to the west in the morning would be optimal as most days the cliffs offer protection from the northerly wind, and by the time I was ready to turn around I had the westerly pushing me home. I loved working with the elements, it felt right. It felt smart.

In those days, only eight years ago, boat tours were not as prolific as they are now. A little Portuguese fishing boat puttered around the corner with a friendly wave and I pulled into a private cove. It was warm on the sand, hot actually as I had been paddling hard. When you’ve

overcome the first few hours of paddle boarding you don’t tend to spend much time in the water, so I took the opportunity and stripped off, diving into the clear, cool ocean. Gliding over rocks and around promontories I felt the cool water recharging me and I stroked back to the beach, rested on the sand for a few minutes before continuing my explorations.

Cave after cave opened up. So many people paddle right past these gems – caves that open up on one side, and connect to another through a beach in the middle. Caves with two holes in the roof and one entrance. Caves with two entrances and one hole in the roof. It’s a veritable smorgasbord of natural delights.

The companies that offer tours through the 15 kilometres of coastline from Ferragudo through to Armação de Pêra tend to come and go every few years, after all I sold mine in 2018. There is a great mix of solid instructors who can help you learn to paddle board. If you’re nervous about standing up, opt for a kayak, it’s an easier (but not as much fun) option.

Naturally, you’re in the ocean and as a result the conditions can be unpredictable, even in the midst of summer. Sometimes, the south easter picks up and we get a rush of swell from the straits of Gibraltar where the wind whistles through, ruffling up the seas, and they compound themselves in the narrow entrances of the caves, producing surprising waves.

When you are messing around in the shore break with a hard object like a kayak or a paddle board, you’ll need to be aware of the dangers. One wave can easily thrust the board into you and put you flat on your back. After saying that, on a good day (which most days are in the Algarve) you’ll be absolutely fine, and as long as you can kneel comfortably, any age can paddleboard or kayak. It’s totally up to you and how adventurous and fit you are.

Enjoy your ocean adventures!

Cave after cave opens up. So many people paddle past them, missing out on a smorgasboard of natural delights

HAVE YOU VISITED THE CAVES BY PADDLEBOARD OR KAYAK? IF NOT YOU SHOULD CONSIDER THE ADVENTURE, SAYS NICK ROBINSON

EASTER EATS and drinks

A SPECIAL LUNCH FOR FRIENDS AND FAMILY AT EASTER REQUIRES A BIT OF CAREFUL PLANNING AND SOME DETAILED CONSIDERATION AS TO THE WINES YOU WILL SERVE... AFTER ALL, WINE AND EASTER ARE INSEPARABLE

Words: LÍVIA MOKRI

IN PORTUGAL, at Easter it is customary to have a hearty table, with fish options – including cod and salmon as well as seafood – leading the way, in addition to the long-awaited chocolate eggs. However, a typical Easter meal goes beyond the dishes served... the presence of delicious wines is essential. If you haven’t already chosen the ones you will enjoy on this celebratory occasion, keep reading and check out my tips!

For starters

For cold cut boards, skewers and other meat-based snacks, choose light red wines, such as Pinot Noir.

For fried starters, such as polenta, onion rings and potatoes, a good choice is the drier sparkling wines that have high acidity to clean the taste of the cooking process.

If cheese and cheese-based dishes are your starter snack choice, choose a light or medium-bodied red wine, such as Merlot, or a classic white, such as Chardonnay.

Fishing for flavour

Prawn dishes call for whites. Despite being extremely delicate and light, prawn meat is one of the tastiest alternatives we can find in the seafood universe. Pay attention to the best wines that harmonise with each seasoning, as prawn meat absorbs the characteristics of the ingredients used in each recipe.

For very spicy preparations, opt for white wines with lower alcohol content. You can serve them with a good aromatic white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling.

For prawns in butter or cooked and served with creamy sauces, more full-bodied white wines – such as Chardonnays – can help balance the flavour.

Grilled prawns and risotto, in turn, harmonise very well with sparkling wines, while a complete paella calls for very young Aragonez or Tinta Roriz wines.

Another favourite ingredient for Easter lunch is salmon, one of the best-loved fishes in the world, both for its flavour and nutritional value. Salmon, however, has completely different characteristics – texture, taste and aroma – which vary according to the way it is cooked. The choice of the best wines therefore depends on the style of the dish.

For salmon consumed raw, as in sashimi, or ceviche, or a poke bowl, a light white wine is the right choice, so as not to compete with the smooth flavour of the cuts. If the preparation process uses citrus ingredients, such as lemon juice as in a ceviche,

you can replace the white wine with a Brut sparkling wine, which helps to refresh the palate.

Smoked salmon pairs well with rosé wines and sparkling wines, which are exquisite in the right measure with the slightly stronger flavour that is the result of the smoking.

Pasta dishes that include salmon call for white or rosé wines, the first being ideal for white, creamy sauces and the second for tomato-based sauces. For those who choose grilled salmon, white wines from the Sauvignon Blanc grape are good choices, or red wine from the Pinot Noir grape. Boiled salmon partners well with a white Portuguese espumante (sparkling wine).

When in comes to the sweet treats

If you want to end your Easter lunch in style, how about pairing your puddings with great dessert wines? For recipes made with dark chocolate, a dry red wine may be the right choice, but sweet desserts, however, call for sweeter wines as an accompaniment. Therefore, Port wine or late-harvest wines are interesting alternatives due to their sweetness and liqueur-like silkiness. These wines go well with milk and white chocolate, as well as with fruit pies and cakes.

In Portugal at Easter it is customary to have a hearty table, with fish options –salmon, cod and shellfish

VINHO VERDE WINES

Vinho Verde wines seem to have been traditionally made to pair with fish and seafood. That’s why we like to call it a joker option for the Easter lunch.

As long as the dishes are smooth and with little seasoning – this is the perfect wine to accompany any recipes prepared with white fish.

My suggestion: Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho

Loureiro White

ROSÉS

The fame of rosé wines is justified by their lightness and delicacy, ideal for warmer days... as are usual here during the Easter holiday.

Because they have the freshness of white wines and a structure that is slightly reminiscent of reds, rosés combine with various dishes, especially fish or seafood. And if the menu includes Bacalhau à Brás, a wine with a strong presence and elegance is perfect, and rosés have both in abundance.

My suggestion: Maçanita Touriga Nacional em Rosé

CHARDONNAY

The white Chardonnay grape variety gives rise to light and fresh wines, as long as they do not age in oak barrels. When the Chardonnays are from colder regions, they provide greater elegance and freshness, while in warmer regions, the aromas of ripe fruit and the density caused by the alcohol content are more evident.

As for pairing: the young wines are great to enjoy with pasta in white sauce and grilled fish. The oak-aged ones are the ideal company for the traditional bacalhau, as well as prawn and pasta with cheesebased sauces.

My suggestion: Quinta do Gradil Chardonnay White

PINOT NOIR

Pinot Noir produces wines with delicate flavours and a less intense red colour. Its aromatic notes are dominated by the presence of red fruits, in addition to the delicate notes of spices. As it ages, more complex aromas emerge, such as dried flowers and mushrooms.

Although it is a lighter red wine with few tannins, Pinot Noir has a vibrant acidity, making it combine both with lean meats and dishes that have the more fatty tuna or salmon as the main ingredient. Due to its versatility, this wine is perfect for an Easter lunch with a variety of dishes.

My suggestion: Campolargo Pinot Noir Red

To make your Easter meeting with family and friends complete, it might be a good idea to invest in the type of wines that will harmonise perfectly with the dishes you are planning to serve. To help you with this task, here’s a guideline to the kinds of wines that go well with some of the Easter specialities.

All aboard

LOUL É -BASED CARLA MARTINS AND GUSTAVO ARGUELLO ARE GRAPHIC AND PRODUCT DESIGNERS WHO HARBOUR A DREAM OF CHANGING CONSUMER ATTITUDES TO FAST GOODS – FURNITURE IN THEIR CASE – AND ARE LOOKING TO PUT CARDBOARD FIRMLY ON THE MAP

Words: LUCY MAYER

CARLA AND GUSTAVO are speaking to me via zoom from their home in Loulé, proudly sitting beside their impressive 3D printer which is just as much of a star of the pieces they create as are the designers themselves.

They spent seven years in Milan and six years in London, both working on branding and packaging for various companies, from a Brazilian mineral water to the most iconic Italian brands, but they always wanted to find ways to make the packaging more sustainable with different ways of producing it, like with a 3D printer.

But, as they tell me, the world was not ready for their ideas. It wasn’t so much of a cost problem but rather a time problem: the companies they were pitching to wanted more products and faster. All the while the pair were living and working in Milan, Gustavo, who describes himself as an inventor who loves Lego and learned his trade from his grandfather, was working on getting the couple’s first product ready for sale.

In 2012, Plicopá was born. Plico is Latin for ‘to fold’ and Opa is an expression of surprise. This highly attractive, eco-friendly case-stand worked as a support for the iPad, and what’s more, it was created from cardboard.

The wrong time

The Plicopá, as Gustavo shows me, was sturdy, neat and protective with a beautiful Londoncentric, eye-catching design by Carla. You could slip your iPad in if you wanted to carry it around, and then, when you wanted to use it, manoeuvre the cardboard folds into position and use the iPad exactly as you normally would for working, viewing and charging.

Buoyed by their pride for the product, Carla and Gustavo began crowdfunding to try and launch it on a wider scale; however, the desired amount that would enable them to manufacture Plicopá was not reached; Italy at the time was among the countries hit hardest by the recession of 2008-2009.

Carla and Gustavo’s next adventure saw them head to London, a long-held ambition, where they continued to promote Plicopá, launching it in September 2013 during the London Design Festival.

It was a “cool experience” according to Gustavo, meeting with investors and showcasing Plicopá. But the product, he concedes, was too early for the market. They found that lots of prospective clients still wanted to use leather or plastic, which ultimately went against their core beliefs of sustainability.

In 2015 Gustavino was created and launched through a kickstarter campaign. They designed the modular wine rack on the computer and watched it come to life right before their eyes via the 3D printer. After London, it was back to Portugal, and the Algarve, where they finally settled in Loulé in 2019 and began to think about how their products could change the mind-set of the Portuguese people when it came to recycling and reusing.

The right place

The past few years have been a whirlwind of seminars, webinars, designing and creating, which is what has ultimately led them to their residency at Loulé Design

PHOTO: WESLEY

Lab, which is part of the Loulé Criativo initiative. Through the Lab, they were commissioned by Inframoura, the public waste and utilities company in Vilamoura, to come up with a brief to create something made out of the objects that people had dumped, that would bring both the elderly and children together. This would be the Infinity Project – but more of that in our May edition.

After that came another contract, this time featuring the material they loved working with – cardboard – at the Loulé Med Fest.

The council commissioned them to create furniture for the four-day event which is where they came up with their cardboard chairs. They were such a huge success, and ultimately led to them being invited to showcase their range in Ikea Loulé, alongside other Design Lab talents.

Carla and Gustavo went about creating customised one-off pieces, including a floor lamp and a coffee table using Ikea cardboard. People were stunned by how comfortable and sturdy the furniture was, even though the chairs that also made up the Ikea showcase had featured at a four-day outside event and had been subjected to the elements.

Gustavo raves about cardboard. He emphasises how much it is in our lives already from packaging for the products we order online to the insides of doors. This proves, he says, that it is a “super material,” built to withstand and protect, and that’s why it’s perfect for creating furniture.

The fact that it’s also highly sustainable is a major plus. People have “lost their connection with the objects they buy,” Carla tells me. “That’s why we are in this mess” Gustavo adds. I ask them to elaborate and their answer rings undeniably true and is something we can all agree with, and it’s this: “If you buy something for €1, it’s easy to throw away. You don’t create a connection with it. But once you have created a connection with an item through a process, you will keep it for longer as you are attached to it.”

Carla and Gustavo both agree that nature is the best source of inspiration for any design solution. They are keen to promote the concept of the Circular Economy, a model of production and consumption that involves sharing, leasing, reusing, repairing, refurbishing and recycling existing materials and products for as long as possible. Commissions come in from corporate and government clients, which allows materials to move around the local area, which can be achieved through proper recycling methods.

The best is yet to come

After more than 20 years in the design business, Carla and Gustavo say they have “big dreams” of helping people live more sustainable lifestyles while enjoying beautiful and practical, hardwearing furniture. Take their cardboard chair for example. Asked if it would brave snow, Gustavo’s answer is “probably not”, but then not many creations would. But the furniture he creates in the Algarve will withstand the odd rain shower, and more crucially, unlike plastic counterparts, once it is deemed no longer fit for purpose, it can easily be recycled and repurposed. The aim is for the furniture to eventually biodegrade and not be left as a reminder of a consumer society.

Carla and Gustavo have created so many pieces that they were unable to tell me which one was their favourite to design, but Gustavo, a future architect, has a lifelong ambition to create a house made out of cardboard. They have already created most of the furniture that could go into said house. And both are optimistic that they will make this dream a reality and that others will one day be able to follow their lead. I for one am absolutely confident that their vision is the way of the future.

Carla and Gustavo’s work never fails to impress – their portfolio dazzles with innovative design direction, products that both amaze and excite, and services that can support other businesses looking for inspiration. On their website you will discover more, including their work with wood, and the special commissions they have undertaken.

Jim’s

Beautifully styled turbans, and an amazing collection of lightweight and affordable wigs. Used as part of your cancer treatment or simply for aesthetic well-being.

Private salon with complete discretion and care.

Casa

Amor

IT HAS BEEN 12 MONTHS SINCE THE WORK BEGAN; 12 MONTHS OF EXCITEMENT AND JOY, BUT ALSO HEAVYWEIGHT STRESS. THE CREATING OF CASA AMOR, OLH Ã O’S BOUTIQUE HOTEL-TO-BE, IS NOW IN THE VITAL STAGES AND ON THE HOME RUN

Words: ELAINE JOYCE

WALTER RECALLS that finding the old Helena pension was the easiest part of their journey so far: “It was like a treasure hunt. We fell in love with the building, we had to convince the eight heirs to the property, and we had to find all the necessary documents. It is not compulsory to be assisted by a lawyer in Portugal on ventures such as ours, but we preferred to invest in professional help.”

Once ownership had passed over to Jack and Walter, an architect had to be chosen. “This is the key person in your project, and you will spend a lot of time with her or him!” says Jack. “We are constantly asked by others who are thinking about launching a project of their own, how best to start this relationship. We don’t have a miracle recipe but have learned the importance of putting every thought in writing, specifying exactly what you want and also don’t want, even the little things that can make the architect smile, or even annoy them!” It’s a good basis for discussion. And off course, you must visit works carried out by the architect. But above all, spend time when you are interviewing for the right person, to see if you feel good with him or her. Slow dating is preferable to speed dating”.

This is how the duo chose to work with Tatiana Bento of Sena Architects. “But,” they say, “it’s not always a long calm river, and inevitably there are ups and downs. You have to learn to work together with the team you have elected.”

HAIR ARTIST | HAIR PIECES | PRIVATE GYM

It was bad news, when Jack and Walter discovered that a cosmetic renovation wouldn’t be sufficient. The roof terrace, which looked solid, was in fact supported by worm-eaten beams. It had to be removed and rebuilt, as did the floors. The budget soared!

“It is crucial from the start to know what you are facing, cost-wise,” says Jack. “Always ask for estimated prices or you may have to make cuts when you receive the first quotes. We didn’t do enough in this respect because we were seduced by the vision that we shared with the architect. The reduction phase is frustrating – we had to remove half of the balconies, the old stone paving of the patio, forget about the wooden ceilings, the windows with rounded corners…”

The choice of builders is also vital and can be worrisome because of the stories you hear. “We were told about so many bad experiences” says Walter. “The builder who goes bankrupt and the work stops; the project that takes years and years; the builder who gets upset and abandons the site; and the needs of construction itself which, it may transpire, exceeds the skills of the builder. Ask for itemised quotes, as defined by the architect, which will allow you to compare one building firm with another before you make a decision on the builder. The price per square metre means nothing. Visit the construction sites of other jobs each prospective builder has been responsible for, question the people around you, and above all organise an interview, or several, as a team with your architect.

“It’s very long and tedious; we met eight potential building

firms, with incredible price differences; do not necessarily take the cheapest, it could prove to be a huge mistake. Finally, after almost three months of research, we chose EO, Josué Medeiros’ company, whose head office is in Lisbon. As with our choice of architects, we have no regrets, thus far.”

Jack and Walter have known difficult moments. “We thought we had bought a habitable building and we found ourselves with a ruin; only the structure of 1870 remained, certainly with its magnificent arches and vaults,” explains Jack. “The reconstruction phase is motivating. However, after several months, the smell and colour of concrete became unbearable, we dreamed of the smell of paint!”

The morale of the troops remains good as each new phase starts. “The partitions are mounted, the doors and windows made, the Santa Catarina terracottas laid, the white lime begins to replace the gray colour of the cement, the plantibandas give relief to the walls, the parquet is delivered, we have water and electricity, the swimming pool is almost finished...”

There remains, of course, the question of deadlines that we spoke about last month – and that’s the question everyone is asking now, and understandably so. There is an enthusiastic audience ready for the Casa Amor opening. Well, great news is that it is looking like end May now – just a few months away, and in perfect time for the summer season.

Jack and Walter remain optimistic and confident as they watch each element in the equation come to life.

Advice from those who have travelled the same journey is always of real value. Jack and Walter share their experiences for others to learn from

Eat

Albufeira

THERE IS FAR MORE TO THE FOOD SCENE IN ALBUFEIRA THAN MEETS THE EYE. SEARCH BEYOND THE OBVIOUS, LOOK IN THE BACK STREETS AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS GEMS TO BE FOUND, PROVIDING A RANGE OF CHOICES OTHER THAN THE TOURIST MENUS THAT ALBUFEIRA IS, RATHER UNKINDLY, KNOWN FOR

Words: STEFF TOFT

BREAKFAST Fat Cats

Located on the marina, family-run Fat Cats provides the perfect place to relax over breakfast, with a view that is hard to beat. The décor is simple and modern. Choose from a variety of seating areas: on the board walk next to the marina, providing a mixture of sun and shade with a gentle breeze, or by the restaurant itself, the perfect spot for a bit of people watching. Nothing quite beats a quiet coffee, looking out over the boats.

Fat Cats doesn’t aim to provide a quick, cheap English breakfast. Rather, they offer high-quality ingredients that are cooked to order. The menu lists a wide range of options that include a traditional cooked breakfast, a continental breakfast and everything in between. They are happy to swap choices to suit your taste.

I recommend the Modern Breakfast. Ripe avocado, on good quality granary bread with poached eggs, cooked to perfection and topped with chilli flakes, and bacon if you fancy. The quality of the food never wavers here – it is consistently high, even in the busiest periods.

Because everything is cooked to order, the service is slightly slower than the usual, and when the tables are full that can mean a wait, but the quality of your breakfast is worth it.

Open daily from 10:00, there is no need to book, turn up, embrace the view, and enjoy the experience. It is the perfect spot for a gentle start to the day.

Alameda da Orada, Albufeira 8200-394

T: 927 389 019

LUNCH Alagoa Restaurante

The front of this snack bar resembles every other one; it is clean, functional and devoid of character. Beyond that is a second restaurant space, more homely and infinitely more welcoming; further on is a shaded, secluded courtyard. Like many local Portuguese snackbars, the energy goes into the quality of the food, rather than designer décor.

The lunch menu changes from day to day and is written on a chalkboard. It is wholesome, well-cooked and served in generous portions – a main course and a dessert is less than €10. There are generally five dishes, including a fish dish, a meat dish and more often than not, grilled chicken. The doce da casa changes every day, a particular favourite being custard layered with chocolate mousse, and there is a wide selection of other desserts all of which taste as good as they look.

The staff are friendly and welcoming and are very proud of what they serve. They want you to love the food and are keen to make your experience at the restaurant the best they possibly can.

Open all year round, there is no need to book. Expect to be sitting next to people you haven’t had the chance to meet before, and at lunchtime it’s not unusual for another customer to translate the menu into English, whilst at the same time providing their opinion on the best choice of the day. Don’t be put off by the sound of meals you’ve never tried: local stews with beans and unrecognisable meats, soups, oven baked or grilled meat and fish dishes are all beautifully cooked. Do try the polenta that comes as an extra side dish – you won’t be disappointed. And if ever a dish is offered with Russian Salad, take it.

Rua das Telecomunicações 7, Albufeira 8200-184

T: 289 070 694

BEACH-EATS

A Sardinha

This is certainly not a typical beach bar. The restaurant specialises in freshly-caught fish, but meat options are always available. The menus are written on chalkboards and the price of the fish is quoted in € per kilo, which can be confusing. But the staff are incredibly helpful, honest and knowledgeable, guiding you to the most suitable option and often bringing the fish to the table to further explain. There are a few dishes, such as the salmon fillets, which have a set price, as do most of the meat dishes.

The quality of the fish is exceptional and incredibly fresh. It is lightly grilled, then artfully filleted and deboned at the table. The side dishes are simple: boiled potatoes, salad or chips – nothing that detracts from fish itself – and can be replenished on request.

The service and experience are exactly what you would want it to be. If you are spending a day on the beach and just want a snack size portion of garlic prawns with dipping bread, you can be away within 30 minutes. Equally, if you want an extended, relaxing, leisurely meal watching the ever-changing seascape, it can be that too. Although an expensive choice, it is well worth it for a memorable experience.

It is best to book a table, as it is a small restaurant which does get very busy over the summer. The most popular tables at the front of the restaurant overlooking the beach get reserved quickly.

Praia dos Arrifes, Albufeira 8200-613

T: 289 591 600

DINNER

Stews and More

At this family-run restaurant, they clearly love the food that they produce, and have a genuine desire to share that love with their customers. The Dutch and Portuguese husband and wife owners have combined the recipes of their grandmothers to create a range of outstanding stews. Both are happy to take time to explain the menu.

In a quiet side street, a short walk from the hustle and bustle of Albufeira, the restaurant’s décor is quirky, with the couple’s grandmothers’ old cooking pots adorning the walls. There is a gentle hum here of people enjoying, sharing and savouring the food, much as you would at your own dinner table.

There is a varied selection of reasonablypriced starters on the menu. Try the delicious shrimp cocktail in home-made sauce, served with freshly baked bread, or the Portobello mushroom stuffed with cheese and tomato, baked in the oven.

The menu includes vegetarian, burgers and salads, but the tasty, slow-cooked, heart-warming stews are the centrepiece, and each comes with a story of its creation. The stews are served with various accompaniments that work particularly well with each; the Mediterranico – a veal stew with Mediterranean vegetables in a port wine sauce – is served with oven baked potatoes. Or for cheese lovers, the Altlantico is a must; sea bass rolls, oven baked in a cheese sauce, topped with parmesan and served with crusty bread, perfect for dipping.

And the Delightful, with the ice-cream melting into the Baileys, is a dessert to be savoured.

Open daily from 17:30 (closed Sunday), it is recommended that you book here, particularly during the busier months.

Rua Almeida Garret 40, Forte de São João 8200-272

T: 925 712 738

DINNER Bistro

Right in the centre of Albufeira Old Town, just off the main square, you will find Bistro, a surprising treat. This is a familyrun restaurant – the mother is the chef and her two sons run a very welcoming and attentive front of house, and take time to explain how each dish is served. The décor is simple and comfortable and the tables are nicely spaced out; there is a small outside eating area, great for people watching on a summer’s evening.

The menu is small compared to other restaurants in the area, but with enough variety to appeal to all, and includes pasta dishes, vegetarian choices and a burger option. European-style dishes are cooked from fresh ingredients at the time of order.

The couvert is a good one, with freshlybaked bread, a delicious home-made tuna paste, marinated carrots and olives. And for starters, the goat’s cheese with walnuts and honey is a favourite – served warm, with a honey glaze, the cheese is melted to perfection.

There are several exceptional main dishes to choose from. Try the pork tenderloin with plums in a brandy sauce off the specials board. And from the main menu, salmon fillet wrapped in pastry with a cream and mushroom sauce is outstanding, as is the duck magret in orange sauce. Each dish has its own accompaniment, but the choice can be altered to suit your personal preference.

Open from 18:30 daily, March through to December, it is important to book here, especially during the summer months when the regulars, and visitors to the town, plan ahead. Bookings are taken seriously and your table is always ready when you arrive.Charmingly, you are made to feel that you are the most important customer ever to have visited their restaurant.

Rua Alves Correia 37, Albufeira 8200-090 T: 914 327 450

Above: breakfast at Fat Cats on the Marina is a long way removed from the usual fast-food offerings in tourist eateries. Below: On the beach at A Sardinha for exceptional fish dishes

My place

TO SOME PEOPLE A GARDEN A PIECE OF EXTERIOR DECORATION, AN EXTENSION OF THE HOME DESIGNED TO IMPRESS. TO OTHERS, IT IS AN EXTENSION OF THE HEART AND A SHOW OF LOVE AND PASSION, AND THAT IS A VERY DIFFERENT THING

Words: BURFORD HURRY Photography: LARS HINSENHOFEN

WHAT IS YOUR garden to you? I know what mine is to me. When I step through my front door my garden takes me in her arms and my blood pressure goes down a notch or more. She is a friend and a comforter, a refuge and an inspiration. It’s where she prompts my memory of the road I have taken so far and reminds me of my friends and pets, alive and long gone.

My garden is small, which makes it easier for me. It is also unusual as it is almost in the centre of Loulé, is on three levels and is bounded by a river with a small waterfall. The top terrace has trees and shrubs, and something of a herbaceous bed with a wide path through it – I have a young dog.

The middle terrace has balusters and is paved with old decorated cement tiles. This has potted cymbidiums, some aloes and gasterias and, because it is partially shady, even some begonias.

The lower terrace has a magnificent old white mulberry (Morus alba), a palm (Chamaedorea elegans), a cycad (Cycas revoluta) and a zamia (Zamia furfuracea), as well as a natural spring, the drama of a cascading waterfall and the Cadoiço River.

My garden is not pristine and neat. There are no lawns to mow or deadlines to keep. There are weeds. I call them volunteers. When they arrive they comfort me as they remind me of the strength of Mother Nature. I remove those plants I don’t want and leave those that I like. So in March/ April there are handfuls of blood red poppies and opalescent mauve poppies (Papaver somniferum) in between the calçadas. Also left are the dark pink occasional valerians (Centranthus ruber).

My helpers

There are special volunters. Some years ago I found a caper (Capparis spinosa) on the top terrace at the foot of the pomegranate (Punica granatum), my ‘private dancer’. The caper has become a shawl which has fallen off her bare shoulders.

If I have volunteers I also have garden escapees. A silver-leafed cotyledon (Cotyledon orbiculata), left abandoned in a shallow plastic pot has scrambled over the lip of her pot, and down a flight of stone steps. The effect looked so good I planted her in the soil in the same spot as where the pot had stood. A single slip of Purple Heart (Tradescantia pallida “Purpurea” ) stuck carelessly in a bed became a glorious pool of dark purple leaves and has remained.

Something else; I don’t use any of the ‘cides’ such as pesticides or herbicides and fungicides. Of course I have ‘pests’ – there are greenfly on my pomegranate. Last year a host of striped and voracious caterpillars left my capers looking like a collection of thin sticks. Mildew has attacked my agapanthus and it has been years since they flowered. However, there are wonderful rewards - I have birds and nests

I have the same pleasure on the upper terrace where a much larger area has my private dancer, a fountain of palm leaves (Chamaerops humilis) and a couple of capers. The combination of which also provides interest and tranquillity while friends and I have lunch in the shade of the carob.

As for a reminder of friends and people? As the list is endless where to start? The Salvia clevelandii that grew in the gardn of collector, John Lavranos*, grey leafed with clear ice blue flowers visited by bees in spring. The Iris unguicularis, native to the Atlas mountains, given to me by Rosie Peddle* years ago. The iris not only survives the neglect heaped on her by me, she shrugs off her regular destruction by my dog, and despite all that produces vibrant fragile deep blue flowers every year.

Then there is the palm planted next to my spring after I had taken a Zimbabwean friend’s advice to remove the large bamboo growing there. I replaced it with a bamboo palm, which now towers above the middle terrace, despite being assured by Google that it “would struggle in full sunlight and wouldn’t grow very tall”. Haven’t we gardeners all made mistakes like that? But it’s a mistake not a train smash and the palm is majestic.

My garden is where my dogs and cats and my companheiro Richard have been buried. They lie without stones or sterile crosses to mark where they are. They live again through the trees and shrubs that grow strongly above them. No surprise really for those plants have their roots in blood and bones or ash. That senna is Fred, that Malayan citrus is Daffy, that jasmine is Luis, the strong elegant cypress is Richard. It’s the cycle of life as it should be with death and life as part of the real world we live in. Sometimes painful and heart breaking but also joyful and growing and continuous.

chameleons, terrapins, the occasional snake and lots of butterflies. And this year I think I might have flowers on the aggies. Patience rewarded.

I have several viewing gardens. My everyday one is on my terrace and consists of two clusters of containers on the little jutting-out veranda. The one cluster on the right has five pots and includes a large and voluptuous Portuguese stoneware jar. The other four pots in the group have different succulents in them – a cotyledon, a kalanchoe, a green cascading Portulacaria Afra and a miniature Euphorbia milii with pink flowers and, in winter, autumn-coloured leaves. The latter is the little sister to the bigger pink euphorbia in the cluster on the left side together with a bonsaied Portulacaria Afra and an old symetrical clay Portuguese money pot. This simple arrangement of containers and plants is for when I am having lunch or supper. A tranquil, familiar comforting view to explore and enjoy while I am eating.

So when I step from the road through the front door my garden gives me all this and more. Although only 23 years old she has an innate wisdom far beyond her years. Perhaps now you can understand why she has become a solace, an inspiration and a companion who reminds me every day how good it is to be alive.

*John Lavranos was a close friend, a polyglot, a plant collector extraordinaire and an author who gave me a better understanding of the world, as well as a deeper appreciation of the realm of succulents in particular, and plants in general. Rosie Peddle is an enthusiastic plants woman who was instrumental in starting the Mediterranean Gardening Association of Portugal and who has influenced my approach to gardening in a Mediterranean climate.

My garden is where my dogs and cats and my companheiro Richard have been buried. They live again through the trees and shrubs that grow strongly above them.

To cap it all

WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT A RUBBER BATHING HAT COULD INFLUENCE THE WORLD OF COUTURE FASHION? BUT DIOR, VALENTINO, JOHN GALLIANO AND KARL LAGERFELD HAVE ALL CREATED DESIGNS INSPIRED BY THIS UNLIKELY ITEM OF HEADWEAR

Words: CAROLYN KAIN

PHOTOMONTAGE artist

Mari Arp is another to make the most of this obscure accessory; an exhibition of her gorgeous images is on display at Galeria CôrteReal in Paderne. Her models imitate the vintage style of Esther Williams, an Olympian who swam her way into 26 aqua-musicals. She is remembered for her synchronized swimming and glamorous poolside image as seen in Hollywood movies. Throughout the 1940s, her bathing attire became all the rage, with most women’s budgets stretching to a colourful cap adorned like hers with flowers and patterns.

Emulating the period and the flawless beauty of the models, Arp’s art is achieved through a complicated and time-taking process that begins with a photographic image impregnated onto paper from which she carefully peels away the individual layers. Each wafer-thin transfer must be handled with the utmost sensitivity, realigning it onto a canvas using even pressure. Afterwards, applying acrylic paint, charcoal and pastel chalks to the fragile surface, she must be precise and gentle.

HIGH FASHION STATEMENTS

Dior’s glittering caps have delicately beaded netting to cover the face

Valentino has created fabulously ornate silicone hats

Galliano’s swimming caps are decorated in gold, paint-splattered neon and red lace

Lagerfeld’s bride wears a metallic cap with tulle cascading from the back

Finally, a clear layer of synthetic resin intensifies the colours, protects the delicate surface and adds a lustrous appearance.

Prior to the fashionable intervention of Esther Williams, swimming hats were mostly functional items used to protect a lady’s hairstyle. During the Victorian era, when women immersed into the sea from their bathing machines, their hats were made from cloth or silk. In 1883, when rubber was invented, this more practical waterproof material was shaped into frilly mop caps.

It was only during the 1920s and 30s that bathing caps were designed into a shape we would recognise today. Intended to emulate aviators’ helmets, they copied the pilot’s headwear of the time. The strap that secured the hat under the chin enabled women to dive and swim without disturbing their carefully coiffured Marcel waves!

During the 1950s, managers of public pools ruled that for hygienic reasons it was compulsory for women to wear swimming hats. It was, they said, the way to stop long hair from blocking drains. Manufacturers were delirious as women reluctantly complied and swimming hat sales shot up.

That is until the 1960s when the directive ended, just as men began to favour longer hair. Feminists proclaimed that in a male dominated society this was the reason why the unpopular rule was lifted. From that point onwards, bathing hats were rarely seen except on the heads of serious swimmers wanting to increase their streamlined efficiency in the water. These sleek structures are mostly made from super-flex silicone, and once again they are worn for functionality rather than for fashion. Some style gurus and influencers predict it’s all about to change and as the swimming season begins we should look out for glamorous retro headwear beside our pools and beaches.

ABOUT THE ARTIST

Your absolute favourite three movie stars?

There are many new films and great young actors at the moment. In the age of Netflix and other streaming providers, I can't decide, but the actress Dominique Devenport has made a lasting impression on me. Among the stars of yesterday, Sean Connery, Marlon Brando and Elizabeth Taylor are unforgettable.

One film you can watch again and again?

Breakfast at Tiffany’s with the unforgettable Audrey Hepburn.

What inspires you to start a new work?

Faces, faces and more faces. I love to read them and analyse the proportions.

Do you have pieces in any important galleries, or owned by famous private collectors?

All galleries that work successfully in these difficult times are important. And every collector is important. In Portugal I am represented by Côrte Real Gallery which counts international collectors in its roster of clients.

Do you have archives of old film stills?

No, I am not a person who archives anything.

What colour is your bedroom?

Just white and a few natural tones, for a quiet, deep beauty sleep…

Amazing spaces

JADE PASSEY, INTERIOR DESIGNER, STYLIST AND FOUNDER OF ESCOLHIDO, COMBINES EXPERTISE AND VISION TO CREATE A VERY SPECIAL ENVIRONMENT.

CASA ALMARGENS IS A FINE EXAMPLE OF HER INSPIRED THINKING

LET’S TALK first about the owners: there’s a group of them – Meredith and Kyle McAllister, Trevor and Audrey Welch and Kate and Chris Matsch, a spirited bunch of Americans who have started multiple companies in the service industry, or worked in the hospitality sector for much of their careers. In the US, Trevor and Audrey and Chris and Kate founded Ibis Bakery, Messenger Coffee, and are current owners of Marion Milling; Meredith and Kyle founded Compost Collective and are current owners of Marma.

In 2018, Trevor and Audrey rented a 1980 Vanagon and drove it down the west coast of Portugal and headed for Carrapateira, which restaurant owner friends in Lisbon had recommended. “We loved the vibe, the relaxed pace, and the creative people living there,” says Trevor. “We started looking for a place then, and found this property, Casa Almargens, in 2021. Buying a house abroad had been a long-held and oft-discussed dream shared by the six of us, and this home was a natural fit due to its location and beauty.”

Now about the property: Casa Almargens is right on the edge of town and

surrounded by farmland, a lovely home in a beautiful setting. Nestled within rolling hills and dunes, it is a contemporary Portuguese beach house, sitting peacefully just a stone’s throw away from the wild Atlantic coast. Carrapateira’s natural backdrop and laidback energy sets the village apart. It is commonplace to see locals gathered in the square, meeting for their morning coffee, or awaiting the fish van to arrive. “Being amongst such beautiful nature and people, the location allows you to immerse yourself in the simple life and recharge. Walking, exploring beaches, reading and cooking delicious local produce are the things we love to do when retreating to Casa Almargens,” says Trevor. The three-bedroon house, so enjoyed by the owners themselves and by friends and family

Jade Passey is single-minded in her approach. Always creative, always original, and always looking for local craftspeople who share her passion for high-end statement finishes

who have stayed there, is now available on a bed and breakfast basis to those who want a calm, quiet and certainly special experience.

And the design and development of the building, the aesthetics and the landscaping? Algarve-based interior designer and stylist, Jade Passey from escolhido, was commissioned to remodel the property to create a space that feels design-led but authentic (an ethos that is always at the forefront of her projects, alongside her detailed and sustainable approach to designing and sourcing objects). And she worked with a local landscaper to create the gardens around the house, introducing locally-grown plants, including wild flowers that bloom in the spring and wild orchids that come to life in the summer months, as well as edible plants and herbs.

And on to Jade and escolhido: Since moving to the Algarve from London, Jade has been passionate about discovering Portuguese artists, makers, artisans and tradespeople, and she’s spent the past four years building relationships with an ever-growing network of specialist talent. “Finding plumbers, electricians, carpenters and builders when taking on a renovation can be a challenge,” she says. “I feel lucky to work with individuals who are communicative and who share a passion for creating a beautiful, high-end finish – something that I value highly.

“At escolhido, we work with our clients to create a home or a space with integrity and impact that works rhythmically with one’s lifestyle and values. Our homes are most likely to be the biggest investment that we make, so we

Soft natural colours and a mix of textures are very much part of the personality of Casa Almargens. The whole look is refreshing, and honest, telling a story of design caring

should reflect us and who we are, tell a story and elevate our lives. They should evoke desired emotions and be our sanctuary.

“When it comes to interior design, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. Whether you’re planning a full renovation project or simply looking to refresh an existing space, we tailor our services with a considered, design-led approach.”

To highlight Casa Almargens inherent connection to the outdoors, natural and organic elements and materials were used for the interiors and furnishings. The accent stone wall in the living area influenced the foundations of the colour palette, and the primary materials that are repeated throughout the house are wood, stone, marble, iron, ceramics, cottons and linens. “The underlying thread was to ensure that the design and materials used were timeless and had a long life, so that the clients could simply add objects to their collection,” says Jade.

A Mediterranean-influenced fireplace is the focal point of the open-plan living area, with design-led, cosy seating surrounding it.

Marble was introduced to create a modest mantel and a Faro-based, skilled brother-and-sister duo of tile makers, continuing the traditions of the family business, were commissioned to handmake a small selection of tiles using recycled clay for the hearth.

Together with Western Algarve stone mason, Paulo Caneco, Jade designed a simple, yet stunning marble coffee table for Casa Almargens, which sits in front of the large contemporary sofa. “Including Portuguese-sourced marble was always at the forefront

of the design decisions for the property. This table and the others designed for the Casa will live to tell many stories as they pass on to owners in the future.”

A team of talented local craftsmen created the high-end, inspired and tactile desired finish in the kitchen design. The combination of chestnut wood kitchen cabinets and shelves, white quartz countertops, and Portuguese ceramic tiles with accents of locally sourced ceramics and objects deeply embedded in Portuguese history were the key ingredients in this space.

Photography by Sergiy Barchuk, a friend of the clients, is featured throughout the house. Two pieces inspired by natural elements hang gracefully above the wooden shelves holding collections of handmade crockery, ceramics, objects and glassware.

In the dining area, with views of the rolling hills, is a large inviting refurbished wooden dining table surrounded with preloved

Portuguese black iron feature chairs at either end with cushions made from vintage Hungarian grain sacks.

As sustainability continues to be at the forefront of design decisions and ensuring not to waste any leftover material, two wooden plinths were created from the spare material from the oversized pergola built on the decking.

Jade commissioned a Lisbon-based artist to create a piece of sculptural art for the wall. Being drawn in by Krus’ abstract use of materials to create texture, a brief was given to the artist to capture the surroundings of the property where the dramatic sand dunes meet rugged cliff edges while the Atlantic ocean glistens with the sun’s reflection. Epoxy Resin was used to mimic the sea with plywood and plaster capturing the coast.

Casa Almargens bedrooms feature sturdy handmade beds dressed with softly draped cottons and linens, offering the ingredients for a restful sleep. There are handcrafted marble bedside tables, designed by escolhido and locally-sourced earthy accents; a delicate rice paper shade hangs above the bed, whilst natural white curtains allow the soft light to filter in throughout the day. Fabric rests upon locally-made iron curtain rods with the signature swirl finial at either end that you see replicated throughout the house. On the walls, you will find framed art by one of the talented artists or photographers who were commissioned for the project.

Says Trevor: “We love our house and we want to continue sharing the beautiful coast with friends and family. We are still getting settled in Portugal and learning

our way around. We can’t wait to immerse ourselves fully and discover more about the culture and beauty of the western Algarve. We love to have our family and friends utilise the space and experience the beautiful town so we’ve had a lot of our close contacts staying in the house since we completed the renovation. We have also had a number of guests from across Europe looking for extended stays in tranquil locations who either discover us through Instagram, our website, or through word of mouth.

Says Jade: “My plans and dreams for the future are to continue creating spaces that enhance my clients’ lives, to be commissioned to do the interior design for a beautiful boutique hotel here in Portugal, to build a collection of escolhido properties and to open an escolhido showroom full of hand selected objects and furniture and my own home collection working with talented artists and makers.”

Cheese and olive crown loaf

THE NEW EDITION OF MARY BERRY’S ICONIC BAKING BIBLE BRINGS TOGETHER ALL THE FAVOURITES FROM THE UNDISPUTED QUEEN OF BAKING – 250 RE-TESTED AND UPDATED CLASSICS AND 20 BRAND NEW RECIPES. THIS BREAD IS A PARTICULAR TREAT, SERVED WITH SOUP, OR A PLATTER OF CHEESES OR CHARCUTERIE. IT IS BEST EATEN ON THE DAY IT IS MADE

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

 250g strong white flour

 1½ tsp fast-action dried yeast

 ½ level tsp salt

 1½ tbsp olive oil

 175ml slightly warm water

 55g black olives, pitted and chopped

 55g Parmesan, finely grated

 1 large egg, beaten

 30g mature Cheddar, grated

METHOD

1 Measure the flour, yeast, salt, olive oil and water into a bowl. Mix using a wooden spoon until you have a wettish dough.

2 Tip the dough on to a lightly floured work surface. Knead by hand for 5–8 minutes until the dough is smooth and shiny. Place in an oiled bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave to rise for about 1½ hours, or until doubled in size.

3 Lightly grease a 20cm springform or deep round cake tin.

4 Knock back the dough by hand for a few minutes, then scatter over the olives and Parmesan and knead again. Divide the dough into 12 balls and arrange them in a circle in the prepared tin, starting from the outside. Cover with clingfilm and leave to prove for 30 minutes, or until doubled in size.

5 Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.

6 Brush the tops with beaten egg and sprinkle with the grated cheddar. Bake in the preheated oven for 25–30 minutes, or until well risen and golden brown on the top and underneath. Cool on a wire rack.

Well, we made it. Several times over in fact, because this bread is absolutely glorious in taste, texture and looks, and so so easy. The recipe is from Mary Berry’s Baking Bible by Mary Berry (BBC Books, around €30, at FNAC and Bertrand). Photography by Ant Duncan.

3 months

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KIT & CABOODLE IN ALMANCIL IS CURRENTLY TURNING A 1940 s DARK WOOD DRESSER THAT HAS SUFFERED THE TOBACCO, POLISH AND GREASE OF THE YEARS, INTO A 21ST-CENTURY STATEMENT PIECE THAT WILL LAST WELL INTO THE FUTURE

New and exclusive

IT’S A challenge that excites owner Philippa Taylor again and again as another consignment of ‘pre-loved’ goodies arrive at the warehouse. “Most of the time,” she says, “we are purchasing furniture that is high quality, in near-perfect condition and totally on trend, but sometimes there are a few that need a bit of Chalk Paint magic.”

Established almost five years ago, Kit & Caboodle is slowly but surely changing the face of second-hand furniture from something that use to be mainly of interest to those who couldn’t afford to buy new, to contemporary cool in a must-visit emporium that offers not only the perfect one-off piece, but a total home refurb and even interior design assistance if needed. “Sustainability is a real issue today, and one that most people are fully aware of,” says Philippa. “At Kit & Caboodle we are doing our very best to take what we already have and give it a new lease of life.”

A relatively new service the company has introduced is painting a piece to a client’s specification. “Our prices are extremely good,” says

Sue Jenkins, Operations Manager. “As an example, in the showroom we have bedside tables that are just €44 for the pair! Choose the colour you want from our full range of Annie Sloan Chalk Paints and our in-house painters will transform them for you. Total cost is approximately €144 for the two and we can even change legs and hardware.”

If you fancy having a go at up-cycling some of your own pieces at home but don’t have the confidence, check out the April workshops at kitandcaboodle.pt and book yourself in to a day’s course of creative learning, or join their newly-formed Chalk Tuesdays.

If you have furniture items to sell, send pictures to sales@kitandcaboodle.pt and one of the team will be in touch.

FLOWER

IF YOU ARE IN THE ALGARVE OVER THE EASTER HOLIDAYS, THE FESTIVAL OF FLOWER TORCHES IN S Ã O BR Á S IS NOT TO BE MISSED. IT NEVER FAILS TO AMAZE

Words: LAURA SHEA

THE QUIET, unassuming town of São Brás de Alportel is a true gem, but one that would be easily overlooked for the more bustling spaces of Loulé or Faro. This would be a huge mistake, as I discovered when I began delving into the rich history of the town and, in particular, its famous Festival of Flower Torches.

Located in the hills further east of Loulé, São Brás greets you with typical white houses adorned with stunning tile work and iron balconies, which give a glimpse into the importance of this area in days gone by. The town was hugely prosperous when the cork industry was booming, and São Brás was one of the largest producers in Portugal. A visit to Eco-Fábrica de Cortiça Francisco Carrusca (eco-corkfactory.com) is fascinating and the guided tour makes sure you learn all there is to know on the subject.

The town boasts a remarkable history – it has been home to the Romans and all periods since then, and remnants from the earliest days have been discovered over the centuries.

A visit to the parish church, Igreja Matriz de São Brás de Alportel, is a must. Inside you will find a marble altarpiece, which is unusual in Algarvean churches, and behind the building sits a small alleyway leading to the Calçadinha Romana, the ancient Roman road, which was discovered during an archaeological programme.

You could easily spend your day in the town exploring the fascinating Algarve Costume Museum, or at one of the many events staged by the Amigos do Museu at the Museu do Traje – there are regular

classes and workshops, art and photographic exhibitions and a full programme of concerts. This place is also home to the workshop of the famous Palmas Douradas, where Maria João Gomes makes and sells the most stunning pieces made from local palm leaves. The town boasts its fair share of coffee shops and pastelarias, weekend street markets, a great municipal market, and some shops that alone are worth the visit – a favourite is Ange Boutik for Portuguese goods, including ceramics, leather goods and a wonderful range of soap products.

However, on Easter Sunday, São Brás is a very different place when it celebrates the annual Festival of Flower Torches. The usually calm streets are paved with breathtaking arrangements of flowers, and exquisite carpets of petals that run through the centre of the town. This religious celebration is in honour of the Resurrection, and the procession is a distinctive show of faith and happiness. The balconies of houses along the route are hung with bright bedspreads and blankets in order to catch good luck from the passing parade. This type of procession was once a common site in the villages of the Algarve when men would carry torches or lanterns, and choirs would sing to celebrate the return of the Lord. As the years have gone by, the festivities have changed format in many places, but São Brás has kept it going, replacing the burning torches (it is said due to the shortage of wax years ago) with elaborately-decorated hand-held flower displays, carried by the men of the town as part of the procession. There’s competition here, with family-made flowertorches getting bigger and bolder every Easter.

The young and the old gather together to take part in some way, or simply to observe. The carpets made up of millions of fresh flower petals don’t last too long once the procession is on the move, so get there early

Leaving the church, the procession follows a fixed route. One man in each group shouts out “Ressuscitou como disse!” (“Risen, as he said”) and the walkers halt, turn to face each other and, raising their torches high, chant “Aleluia, Aleluia, Aleluia”.

The flower carpets that line the route of the procession are the work of over a hundred volunteers who pick and prepare three tonnes of flowers and begin their decoration construction in the early hours of the morning on Easter Sunday. The festival begins at 9:30am when the streets are opened for people to wander and take in the visual delight of the hours of hard work and dedication laid out before them. 11am sees the beginning of the procession, which starts and ends at the Igreja Matriz.

The churchyard houses the Sounds and Flavours event in the afternoon, which is a cultural dream for anyone wishing to learn more about the Algarve and its inhabitants. Local musicians play for the crowd, and this joyous social occasion carries on into the evening. Regional treats are on offer all day from the street sellers gathered in the square, and this is the ideal opportunity to sample some typical items such as folares, almonds and carob sweets. Immerse yourself in the wonderful and inviting atmosphere that this special day creates and you will be planning to be here for the Festival of Flowers next year!

If you are interested in helping prepare for the Festival, contact the Associação Cultural Sambrasense at cultural@acs.com.pt @laura_loves_travelling2021

GO FOR GOLD

LANIDOR (THE NAME MEANS WOOL OF GOLD) IS AN ICONIC PORTUGUESE FASHION BRAND. WE CAUGHT UP WITH MARIA XAVIER, HEAD OF MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS AND GRANDDAUGHTER OF FOUNDER ARMANDO XAVIER, TO HEAR THE INTRIGUING STORY OF THE COMPANY’S PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE

Words: SALLY DIXON

I’M THE first to admit that in a past life I was a bit of a shopaholic (I blame my role as a former magazine fashion director). To this day I love checking out the clothing stores in any new countries and cities that I visit. Having spent a considerable amount of time in Portugal since age four, I have had plenty of opportunity to do some retail ‘research’ in places like Faro, Tavira, Quinta Shopping and Lisbon. However, Lanidor is one brand that seemingly missed my retail therapy radar. Surprising, given that Lanidor is well known in its home country and abroad, as Portugal’s largest ready-to-wear brand, with shops and franchises dotted around Portugal, Ireland, Spain, Ecuador, Qatar and Oman.

Early days

Lanidor started life as a yarn and wool factory, Arrancar, founded 56 years ago by Armando Xavier in the north of Portugal. To this day more than 80% of the brand’s knitwear is still produced in-house (in their new factory), and some of the current employees have been there since the very beginning. Armando studied textile engineering in the UK to bring knowledge of new technologies and production techniques back to the family business. Looking to diversify his product range, he decided to his

own garments using yarn and wool, opening a few stores selling knitwear alongside garments by other companies. And a fashion brand was born.

Lanidor Woman was launched as a knitwear specialist and remains synonymous with knitwear to this day. Several years later, the company expanded into new market sectors to include Lanidor Outlet in 2000, Lanidor Kids in 2002 and Lanidor Eyewear in 2008. With 500,000 people signed up to the Lanidor loyalty programme it’s fair to say the brand is pretty popular!

Family matters

In 1994, Armando’s son, João Pedro Xavier, joined the family business to lead the transformation of the brand to what it is today, one of the most recognised fashion brands in Portugal. Under João Pedro’s influence Lanidor expanded its portfolio to produce garments outside of Portugal alongside its locally-made pieces.

Stores opened throughout the country and Europe, in shopping meccas like Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon and Calle Goya, Madrid. The innovative Lanidor flagship in Lisbon took inspiration from New York retail giants, with a swimming pool, spa, nail salon and a restaurant all housed within the store. A one-stop shop and lifestyle concept all rolled into one, affectionately called

‘LA Life Style’ with a vision of “making people happier”.

The 2008 financial crisis that affected all markets resulted in some tough decisions being made and for Lanidor, sadly, that meant the closure of the Lisbon flagship store along with some stores in Spain in order to scale down the business. Grand plans of opening a branded hotel also had to remain but a dream.

Franchising the brand allowed Lanidor to have a presence in smaller cities, working with retailers who know their community and local market well. Today, Lanidor’s own stores are a mix of shopping mall presence and traditional street stores.

“We are focusing right now more on street stores as opposed to shopping malls, to help rebuild the beautiful city centres of small cities and encourage more stores to open and make the areas more dynamic again,” says Maria Xavier.

The original Lanidor flagship store in Lisbon had a swimming pool, spa, nail salon and restaurant all housed in the one building.

Making changes

Adaptability has been the key to Lanidor’s longevity, thanks to Maria’s father, João Pedro, having the instinct to react swiftly to the unpredictable times. “When I was little,” she recalls, “I used to see my dad struggling with the business because we faced several economic crises, but we are still here and it’s down to his resilience and his decisions.” Keeping the business alive that her grandfather built all those years ago has always been paramount to the family: “He was the beginning of everything, and I think Lanidor survived because we all want to continue the legacy he built.”

Maria’s father has always liked to help other Portuguese brands to succeed in the market and so partnerships with “friendly brands” became a key part of the Lanidor offering. Taking brands like Pablo Fuster, Throttleman and Globe under his wing enabled the brands to thrive and not be lost to Portuguese fashion history. Throttleman in particular is a brand with a rich history here and its acquisition in 2017 enabled Lanidor to offer menswear as part of their edit. “We used to have Mr Lanidor, but it was a very small collection, and it was mainly because my dad couldn’t find clothes for himself so he decided to make them,” Maria says.

Proving themselves to be way ahead of the post-pandemic online shopping boom, Lanidor launched their online shop, Lanidor e-shop, back in 2006 as a way of shopping the Lanidor Woman collection catalogue. In 2021, the focus turned to lanidor.com to bring together all the in-house brands and ‘friendly brands’ on one easy-to-shop platform.

Maria says: “During Covid-19 we adapted, and grew our e-commerce. 95% of our e-commerce is for the Portuguese market but we still have a lot of room to expand into other countries, as we can deliver to all of Europe.”

Lanidor’s loyal customers are ones that have grown with the brand, with a core age range of 35–55 years. The future for Lanidor is continuing to cater to those long-standing customers while also bringing in a new wave of shoppers in the 25–35 age range. Step forward 28-year-old Maria! “That’s why I think my dad invited me to work with him, because I am the target that he wants to acquire,” she laughs. “I am focused on helping the company become more digital, more technological, more social, in order to speak to the younger target market.”

Looking forward

Weathering the storms is what Lanidor does best it seems, so what does the future hold for the brand? “We need to continue everything that is right and to move forward with a modern edge in terms of technology, communication and brand consistency,” Maria says. “Our biggest difference in the market is the relationship we have with our clients and it’s something we are committed to continue and nurture. In our stores you get a personal service – advice on what to wear with each garment – and we treat each client as someone very important. We don’t want to be a 100% digital brand; we want to stay close to our customers and understand what they are looking for.”

Long may the oldest Portuguese fashion brand in the industry continue to make our wardrobes brighter and more fashionable!

Alcácer do Sal

Sunrise, sunset and all things in between

AN HOUR FROM THE ALGARVE-ALENTEJO BORDER LIES ONE OF PORTUGAL’S OLDEST AND MOST SCENIC TOWNS. BORDERED BY RICE PADDY FIELDS, ALCÁCER DO SAL IS LOCATED ON THE SPARKLING SHORES OF THE RIVER SADO

Words: CAROLYN KAIN

VIEWED from the motorway, Alcácer do Sal’s whitewashed houses, terracotta roofs and numerous church spires invite attention, but most drivers with their speedometers at 120km an hour just hurry by. Heading for other destinations, they are missing a truly authentic and attractive spot.

Sunrise

Traders originating in the eastern Mediterranean were less dismissive of this idyllic place. Around 2,500 years ago, a new dawn broke in the region when Greek adventurers came across the mouth of the River Sado on Portugal’s west coast. Sailing a further 35 kilometers up river, they marveled at this agricultural land of plenty. Recognising it was suitable as an inland trading port, the small settlement they discovered gradually increased in size. The indigenous population

prospered, benefitting from the exchange of goods coming from across the Mediterranean. Archaeological excavations contain the remains of the first ancient trading post and attest to the arrival of a more sophisticated civilization than had previously existed.

Five hundred years elapsed before Romans invading from the east made further and extensive use of the region. There is plenty of evidence contained in the city museum, forum, crypt and restored Roman cisterna. Creating the port of Imperatoria Salacia, they transported local wheat, olive oil, wine and salt across the empire. Due to a tiny seaweed that retains impurities, the salt was of the finest quality and as a result factories for the processing and salting of fish flourished. The trade in salt generated so much wealth that it became one of the most important inland ports in Western Iberia. Important enough to mint its own coins bearing the inscription Imperatoria Salacia.

Like most of Portugal, the town went into

decline when the Roman Empire ended. It took 600 years before a new era awakened with the arrival of the Moors. Becoming a military centre, a massive fortress was built on the hill overlooking a bend in the river and the distant delta. Renamed al-Kasr, meaning castle, the original dimensions included 30 towers, a huge castle keep, two gateways, a barbican and a wooden palisade surrounding the main walls. One of the largest defensive forts on the Iberian Peninsula, today it is a luxurious hotel. Surrounded by extensive urban development during Moorish times, it was the capital city of the province.

Sunset

Viewed at dusk from the undeveloped left bank of the River Sado, the fort’s silhouette continues to be an imposing structure. This is a recommended spot for enthusiastic photographers.

The town climbing up the gently sloping hill is picture postcard perfect as is the river

front, where the tide ebbs in and out. Cafés, bars and restaurants aplenty and a quaint fishing boat occupied by ladies selling prawns by the tubful. Have your camera ready, they are happy to pose for photographs!

More difficult to find are the 11,000 virgins located in Santo António’s marble chapel! The church’s domed roof is made in Renaissance style but unlike many other churches it is not crowned by an enormous stork nest.

Plenty to tweet about

Birds are in abundance and the best way to see them is on a silent solar powered boat. Gliding through the Sado Estuary Nature Reserve expect avocets, black-winged stilts, plovers, pratincoles and purple herons. Little bitterns, returning this month from Africa, might be heard barking and croaking in the reed beds. Skulking around looking for frogs and fish they are rarely seen, but sightings of great marsh harriers overhead are frequent and exciting.

The Sado was once known as the Nile of Portugal, owing to its extensive watershed and many tributaries. The boat skirts the edge of mudflats, marshland and the paddy fields, where rice has been grown continuously for almost 300 years. The fields colour the landscape according to the seasons; green or yellow, or looking like pools of mirrored water. Previously, the

rice was planted by hand but today the process has been almost entirely replaced by small planes flying at low altitude and scattering seeds. To find out more the Museu do Arroz in nearby Comporta is of particular interest.

There are some interesting statistics on rice growing and its consumption in Portugal. Producing 180 million kilos from the estuaries of the Rivers Sado, Tejo and Mondego, the country still needs to import more. The Portuguese love rice, and on average the annual consumption is around 16 kilos, compared to the European average of five kilos per person.

Water for the paddy fields is therefore an important management issue for an area which relies on springs and streams rising in the hills of Ourique, approximately 100 kilometers away. The guide on the eco-friendly SunRice Tours boat points out an environmental issue: just like the Nile, the water level of the Sado is dropping dramatically. All nine tributaries are dammed and the water is used for intensive farming of rice, tomatoes, maize and irrigated olives. Numerous villages that once relied on wells and boreholes now have to pay for their water to be brought in by tankers and use it sparingly. Leading to depopulation, this type of agriculture is a serious warning for the future of people currently living in rural areas.

worth seeing

Archaeological Crypt of Alcácer Castle

Twenty-seven centuries of history intersect in the Archaeological Crypt of the Castle of Alcácer do Sal, inaugurated in April 2008. The underground, excavated in the basement of the fortress and the former Convent of Aracaelli, which today houses the Pousada D. Afonso II, offers a true journey through time where it is possible to see traces of all the people who lived on the hill above where the city stands.

Excavations, carried out in the mid 1990s by archeologists the late João Carlos Faria and Dr António Cavaleiro Paixão, revealed traces of the Iron Age dating back to the 7th century BC, as well as structures from the Roman period and Islamic occupation covering a considerable area.

The mass of ruins, properly cleaned and prepared, explore the eras that overlap, from the oldest, in the 5th century BC to the most modern, in the 17th century.

The church of Santa Maria do Castelo

Dating back to 1217, and inside the castle boundaries, this church was consecrated by the Order of Santiago after King Alfonso II re-conquered the city. The building combines detail from the Gothic, Manueline and Baroque periods and features a stone pulpit supported by a carving of an archangel. There’s lots of gilded woodcarvings in the church but possibly most photographed is the stork’s nest at home on the high spire.

Museu do Arroz T: 265 499 900 herdadedacomporta.pt

Pousada Castelo Alcácer do Sal T: 265 613 070 pousadas.pt

SunRice Tours T: 963 750 362 sunrice.pt

DUPLEX PENTHOUSE WITH STUNNING VIEWS

€1,100,000

In the sun-filled stretch between Quarteira and Black Horse Beach, this two-floor apartment with glorious panoramic views towards the Atlantic Ocean is unique in so many respects, starting with the lavish attention to statement details, and some dazzling paint finishes. An elevator will whisk you up to the 8th floor penthouse with its columned terraces on both levels, perfect for relaxing, and, of course, for entertaining. The spacious lounge and dining areas have dual aspect views, capturing the ever-changing movement of the sea and framing sunsets, and the large well-equipped kitchen, with its seating area with hand-painted panelling, has an American-style fridge and freezer with ice dispenser. There are two double bedrooms and both the bathroom and shower room feature bespoke stained glass windows.

There is a security alarm system throughout the apartment and a secure parking space with remote control in the basement. The covered area of the property is 87m2, while the terraces cover 75m2. Property ref: FS129

BEDROOMS

2 spacious double bedrooms

BATHROOMS

Bathroom and separate shower

A DREAM HOME IN THE SUN The Old Village

SPACE

Terraces on two levels with sea and city views

PARKING

Secure private parking space

POOL

Communal pool on ground floor

Spacious three-bedroom duplex apartment for sale in this in-demand resort in Vilamoura.

Master bedroom with ensuite bathroom

Two good size twin bedrooms

New bathrooms and kitchen

South East facing terrace off the lounge and bedroom Sun-filled roof terrace with BBQ.

The Old Village is just 15-minutes walk from the famous Vilamoura Marina, and offers three large communal swimming pools, a children’s play area, supermarket, cafes, bars and restaurants, and 24 hours security patrol.

€425,000

Five Star Lda

7A Church Square, Old Village, Vilamoura 8125-429

Tel : +351 965 392 755

Email : info@fivestar-vilamoura.com www.fivestar-vilamoura.com

7A Church Square Old Village

Vilamoura 8125-429

AMI:10185

Tel: +351 965 392 755

E: info@fivestar-vilamoura.com

W: fivestar-vilamoura.com

AMI: 10185

FEEDING A CAUSE

HERE TO RETIRE AND RELAX? NOT IF YOU ARE CAROLINE LANGSTON, A BRITISH EX-PAT WHO HAS DEDICATED HER TIME AND ENERGY TO HELP FAMILIES FACING FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES AND UNABLE TO PAY FOR FOOD

Words: STEPHANIE TOFT

IT’S 11.30AM on Friday morning and a small, orderly queue is forming outside Between the Lines (Entre Linhas Snack Bar) in Tunes, as local families wait to collect food from Caroline Langston and her charity Algarve Emporium. This is a small, friendly charity, which provides vital support to these families, as a previous client explained: “Rent in the Algarve is very expensive and if you have children it is impossible to pay all of the bills and food, so we have to have help from somewhere and I don’t have help from other places. Caroline is there to help”.

Caroline never intended to establish a charity providing food to Portuguese families. She moved to the Algarve in 2015 and in 2017 was made aware of an elderly lady in a domestic abuse situation. “Her son was trying to get her out of that situation, but had no money to arrange that. We raised over €1,000 at an event in Porches which meant he was able to move her. She didn’t live that much longer, but enjoyed her own room and a safe space, and she began to smile again”.

This was enough to draw Caroline’s attention to the level of need in and around the Albufeira area. “After that I helped the homeless in Albufeira, providing clothes, toiletries and sleeping bags in the winter,” she explains.

Effects of the pandemic

Everything changed with the onset of Covid, Caroline recalls. “Due to the restrictions imposed, we were locked into our municipality and so we couldn’t look after homeless in Albufeira anymore. Another volunteer who lives in the Albufeira municipality couldn’t get to the families she was helping in Silves. So, I took over and it grew from there.”

Caroline’s work with families in Tunes began, initially, from the back of her car until she was approached by Between the Lines with the offer of a more permanent home.

Caroline explained that there is a set of criteria that must be met in order for help to be provided, and that means families who can’t survive properly without help and who aren’t necessarily getting the help of the state are the priority. “There are many reasons why people are in this unfortunate situation – it might be from the length of contracts in the summer season, through to the cost of rent that leaves families with very little money to buy food.” As another client explained: “In the summer, it’s no problem. I work in a hotel in Albufeira for five or six months, but over the winter, I need help. I have a daughter, and having food from Caroline means I can pay my rent and other bills. I am very grateful.”

The venture is kept local to Tunes. “They have to be able to get to us,” says Caroline. “This is a very transient population and occasionally their circumstances change, which

mean they do leave the local area. In that instance we do not stop supporting them, but they still have to be able to pick the food up from Between the Lines”.

What clients receive

Once a fortnight, each family receives a selection of food that includes a range of fresh and non-perishable goods dependent on their specific requirements. Other donated products such as clothes and household items are available, if families need them.

Those families who do come along for food are incredibly grateful. None of them wishes to be in this position and most of them do their utmost to ensure their need is short-lived. Many families are able to stop receiving the food once their own families are in a better position to help them out. There is a sense of pride in being able to walk away from Caroline’s support, and families often continue to support Algarve Emporium in a voluntary capacity. However, there are those, such as pensioners, who will always need help – some are on a pension of €350 per month. If there are two receiving the pension it is not so bad, but more often only one member of the household is entitled to it, and if they are on medications, that will use up a lot of that income leaving no money for food.

Unfortunately, Caroline’s work hasn’t come to a halt with the end of Covid 19 lockdowns. The continuing issues with cost of living have meant that there are still families reaching out to Caroline for help. In order to continue to support the families, Algarve Emporium relies on donations, and this is where her team of 25 volunteers quietly step in to help raise the all-important €500 per week required to feed the families reliant on help. Collecting this money each month is Caroline’s key priority and the biggest challenge for Algarve Emporium.

The most successful event that Algarve Emporium held was an online bake sale. People stated which cake they would make, other people bid on them and after the online event the cakes were baked and delivered fresh to the winning bidders. Sadly, this was yet another way of raising money for the charity that came to an abrupt halt during lockdown as we recognised the risk of spreading Covid with home baking.

Faced with an immediate reduction in donations, Caroline did as she always does, found a solution to the problem and identified ways to continue her fund raising events online.

This led to the successful online auctions that are now held four times per year. “Nothing that is donated is wasted,” she explains. “Donations are sorted into things that will sell, and things that can be given to the families. We also have a volunteer who is going to start doing regular

monthly car boot sales for us”.

Better quality items are kept aside for the auction – you learn to notice the difference between things that can be sold and those that are a little more special and can be auctioned, the team has found. Besides the online auction, Caroline also runs a number of other successful online selling groups on Facebook, selling English books, DVDs, clothes and many other things. Plus there are four quiz nights per month at two locations, Between the Lines in Tunes and Chill Alte near Alte. All of this helps to raise the all-important €2,000 per month needed to feed the families.

Trolleys for donated food are a common sight in local supermarkets and Algarve Emporium has a donation trolley in the Food Company in Guia, a box in Jaffers Supermarket in Tunes, and recently added a box in Covirans. What Caroline most needs are monetary donations to help with buying perishable goods. Other people organise their own fund raisers like dinner parties, coffee mornings or fun events and ask attendees to make cash donations. For example, one gentleman is using his 80th birthday as an opportunity to raise money by doing his first ever skydive.

I asked Caroline how much money the charity had raised. Her response perfectly summed up her motivation: “I don’t know how much, that’s not what’s important, nor is raising huge sums of money, it’s not what we set out to do. All that matters is that we have the money we need to support our families every week. So please, if you are planning any event in the next few months, use it as an opportunity to raise money for Algarve Emporium and the families of Tunes.”

Algarve Emporium Charity is under the auspices of Associação Guarda-Chuva, registered charity NIPC 515531928. If you want to know more about how you can help, email Caroline algarveemporium@gmail.com

Caroline Langston, seated left, is able to distribute foodstuffs as well as household goods and personal hygiene products to those who cannot support their needs

Ria Siertsema

FULLY booked

THIS MONTH, DAWN ANNANDALE HAS TUCKED INTO SOME HEAVYWEIGHT NUMBERS WHERE THE EFFECTS OF WAR SET THE STAGE FOR THRILLERS AND CHILLERS. BUT TO LIGHTEN THE LOAD, THERE'S A LOVELY-DOVEY FAIRY TALE AND A TOME THAT TEACHES YOU HOW TO ENTERTAIN BOHO STYLE

THE WARRINGHAM CHRONICLES, VOLUME 1: THE RUNAWAY

By Rebecca Gable

Publisher:

Audible Originals

Genre: Historical Fiction

Audio: Available and excellent

For you lovers of historical fiction, this series is absolutely fantastic. Just the right combination of swashbuckling, romance, history and intrigue. The complete series is a family saga, which spans several generations and monarchs: the political shenanigans are identical to those of today and it would appear that our rulers have learned nothing!

England under the rule of Edward III was a cruel world for the impoverished. The story begins with the young Robin learning of the death of his father, and the fall from grace of his family. Robin has to survive against the odds with the help and hindrance of both the nobility and the common people. The plague, failed harvests and the war in France all contribute to the hardships faced by the peasants during the 50-year reign of this most pious king. The church was incredibly powerful, and even the king was cautious of his treatment of the clergy. At the time of his father’s death, Robin was a 12-year-old student at an austere monastery, desperate to complete his education and get out into the big world. His adventures are compelling and I eagerly read the next book in the saga.

Actually, I listened to the Audible version of the book which was excellent, told through a combination of narration and acting.

THE CHARITY SHOP DETECTIVE AGENCY

By Peter Boland

Publisher: Joffee Books

Genre: Mystery

Audio: Not available

A lovely, silly story of old ladies and Victoria sponge. We all know the type of ladies in the story – most of us are probably just like them! If you liked the Lady Hardcastle books or Richard Osman’s tales, this is definitely for you.

A serial killer is stalking the elderly of Southbourne. The only clue left behind is a domino in the hand of each victim – with a name scratched on the back. Eighty-six-yearold Sarah Brown is found dead in her hallway one morning by her delivery man. She was stabbed in the back.

Fiona, Sue and Daisy, volunteers at the local charity shop, Dogs Need Nice Homes, can’t believe their favourite customer is dead. The ladies vow to bring the killer to justice.

With plenty of tea and cake along the way, and despite squabbles with their rivals, the Cats Alliance across the street, the Charity Shop Detective Agency is born.

THE SOUTHERN BOOK CLUB’S GUIDE TO SLAYING VAMPIRES

By Grady Hendrix

Publisher: Quirk Books

Genre: Horror

Audio: Available and excellent

A funny horror story, with vampires. Yep, I thought so, too but it is actually the retelling of a classic tale which will become apparent once you begin to read. Very ‘different’ and definitely not my usual, but the things I do for you lot!

THE HIGH MOUNTAINS OF PORTUGAL

By Yann Martel

Publisher: Canongate books

Genre: Fiction

Audio: Available and excellent

I chose this book for two reasons: the title, as we are a Portugal-based magazine, and because it is by the author of Life of Pi. Yes, it’s definitely worth reading and definitely very odd. But, give it a try because this guy has won the Booker Prize.

In Lisbon in 1904, a young man named Tomás discovers an old journal which hints at the existence of an extraordinary artifact that, if it can be found, would redefine history. Travelling in one of Europe’s earliest automobiles, he sets out in search of this strange treasure.

Thirty-five years later, a Portuguese pathologist devoted to the murder mysteries of Agatha Christie, finds himself at the centre of a mystery of his own and drawn into the consequences of Tomás’s quest.

Fifty years on, a Canadian senator takes refuge in his ancestral village in northern Portugal, grieving the loss of his beloved wife. But he arrives with an unusual companion: a chimpanzee. And there the century-old quest will come to an unexpected conclusion.

The High Mountains of Portugal is part quest, part ghost story, part contemporary fable. It offers a haunting exploration of great love and great loss. Filled with tenderness, humour and endless surprise, it takes the reader on a road trip through Portugal in the last century and through the human soul.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY DIET COOKBOOK FOR BEGINNERS

By Poula Ray

Publisher: Independently published

Genre: Cookery

Audio: Not available

I love cooking, eating and all things food. We could all do with learning a few tricks to help us with diet and nutrition as we age; and let’s face it, none of us are getting any younger. This book is great. Informative, concise, using available ingredients, not too fancy or fussy but sensible information on how to eat well whilst doing something constructive about your arthritis and other achy bits. Many cultures believe you are what you eat, and if I can make myself feel physically better by altering my diet then I’m happy to learn. Anything has to be better than popping yet another pain killer and masking the problem rather than fixing the root cause. Beautiful photos, excellent value.

THE WHISTLE BLOWER

By Robert Peston

Publisher: Zaffre

Genre: Thriller

Audio: Available and excellent

Peston’s debut thriller is set in the London of 1997, with a crumbling Conservative government falling in the face of a modern Labour opposition. In the middle of it all is political journalist Gil Peck. He’s a reporter who would sell his granny for a scoop. He is the well-connected son of a former Labour advisor who grew up a secular Jew in north London. This could almost be Peston himself and it’s tempting to see his protagonist as a self-portrait. But if it is, he certainly does not spare himself: Peck is thoughtless, tactless and utterly self-obsessed, until the death of his high-flying civil servant sister shakes him out of his smug little world. Her death – and the possibility it was not an accident – pushes Peck to find out some uncomfortable home truths. The plot ticks along pretty smoothly, enlivened by a fond cynicism for the worlds of politics and newspapers. I have to stop there otherwise I would give the game away.

Peston’s portrayal of 1990’s London is fun and dripping with drink, drugs, private members’ clubs and an eye for designer clothes, while news junkies and political addicts will enjoy trying to put the real names to some of the characters.

As a journalist myself, I thoroughly enjoyed the book and would recommend it to anyone who enjoys a thriller and recalls those hedonistic days of the 1990s.

A year of great tastes

PROMOTING MADEIRA AS A DESTINATION OF GASTRONOMIC IMPORTANCE, CHEF J Ú LIO PEREIRA OF KAMPO RESTAURANT HAS SET UP A YEAR’S PROGRAMME DESIGNED TO ATTRACT A WIDE AUDIENCE OF FOODIES TO THE ISLAND

Born in 1978, in Carvoeira, a small village on the west coast of Portugal between the Serra de Sintra, the waves of Ericeira and the historic convent of Mafra, it was in his father’s butchers, in his grandfather’s gardens and in his mother’s kitchen that Júlio Pereira fell in love with gastronomy. In 1993, he joined the Escola de Hotelaria do Estoril, and jacket in hand, he visited several international destinations: in Turin, he worked at the Hotel Principe di Piemonte, in Barcelona, with chef Sergi Arola at Arola, in Angola, on the opening of the first five-star hotel in the country, and also visited the Bombom Resort hotel on the island of Príncipe, in São Tomé and Príncipe.

IN HIS ‘12 chefs 12 months’ initiative launched this year, Júlio Pereira welcomes a chef – national or international – to Madeira to experience the beauty and diversity of the archipelago and its emblematic locations, promoting local producers and products, as well as the traditions and the landscape, before joining forces in the kitchen.

The aim of this ambitious programme is to create awareness of all that Madeira has to offer – and what better way than through great dining? Guest chefs are challenged to work with seasonal local produce characteristic of the region, and to introduce contemporary approaches, and, of course, their own diversity of techniques. These exchanges of ideas and experiences and unique creations will translate into unique menus that incorporate ingredients of the islands, some of which may be little known to the public.

The premiere event took place in January, with chef Tiago Bonito of Casa da Calçada in Amarante, as the first guest, and involved visits to the Mercado dos Lavradores, one of the landmarks of the capital of Madeira. In February, it was the turn of chef Rodrigo Castelo from the Ó Balcão restaurant, in Santarém (selected some months ago by AlgarvePLUS as its Restaurant of the Month), followed in March by Diogo Rocha, chef at Mesa de Lemos, in Viseu.

This month, Chef Júlio will be joined by Luís Brito, from A Ver Tavira restaurant, who will visit the island and several producers, integrating and highlighting those special tastes into the menu they will create together, which will be presented on 29 April, in Kampo.

In December 2018, in Funchal, KAMPO by chef Júlio Pereira was born. It is a welcoming restaurant, where the experiences of his career come together, and where he is accompanied by a team of promising young people. The concept quickly conquered the palate of Madeirans and tourists visiting the island, and in July 2019, on the same street as KAMPO, Akua by Chef Júlio Pereira, which celebrates the flavours of the sea, was opened.

Júlio Pereira is also a trainer at several Professional Schools of Hospitality and Tourism, and author of two books Sabores-Receitas Tradicionais Madeirenses and Gastronomia Madeirense.

Chef Júlio Pereira

WALL TO WALL

TAKEN February 19, Loulé

CAMERA iPhone

“Soon it will look like new again, despite the age of the building. Our intense summer heat can play havoc with finishes and crumbling walls need to be filled and smoothed before painting. This man is trusting a very basic bit of scaffolding.”

KEYWORD: OUTSIDE

Jan Tromp and his partner Ilona used to work in healthcare in the Netherlands. They have been active in the café and coffee roaster business in Loulé since arriving in 2016. Working with their hands has become part of their new life.

A well-meant homage to the people in Loulé who are working with their hands is the theme of his photo portfolio. Jan is the treasurer of the APG

Portfolio

STREETS AHEAD

TAKEN February 2022, Loulé

CAMERA iPhone

“Paved streets are part of the personality of our city centres and also backstreets. Calçadas à Portuguesa date back to the 14th century but became really popular after the earthquake of 1755 in Lisbon, where they start using the debris stones for this purpose. And they still do!”

KEYWORD: FOOTWORK

PALM WEAVING

TAKEN April 2022, Loulé CAMERA iPhone

“Palm weaving has a history as old as Loulé itself, and Loulé Criativo in Palácio Gama Lobo promotes the ancient craft. Its artisan ladies work in a tiny back street atelier in the old town, creating beautiful pieces from simple mats to bags, baskets and light shades.”

KEYWORD: NATURAL

AT THE SHARP END

TAKEN November 2018, Loulé CAMERA iPhone

“Cycling round the backstreets and finding the perfect place to stop, or tucked away in a corner of the municipal market, this professional knife sharpener will make your old blunt knives like new and ready to chop and slice and dice on order.”

KEYWORD: MOVING

THE COPPERSMITH

TAKEN July 2022, Loulé CAMERA iPhone

“When you want real copper products like classic cataplanas dishes or more modern artisanal jewellery, go to this very interesting atelier opposite the castle, where you will find pieces that will be hand-made by this new generation of Louletana coppersmiths.”

KEYWORD: TRADITIONS

The family-run Amesbury Abbey Group offers an elegant retirement in country house style at Monte da Palhagueira.

For those who are looking for the reassurance of constant professional care, our nursing care may be the way forward. Alongside all the benefits of residential care, our nursing care adds the additional security of 24-hour care provision from qualified nursing professionals.

Our team spend a lot of time getting to know each resident as an individual, learning their preferences and understanding their concerns, working hand in hand with GPs and other associated care professionals to provide outstanding personalised nursing care. Our exceptional care team treat all our residents with respect, dignity and friendship, and our nursing home has a warm, family atmosphere. Each individual aspect of our nursing care is designed to give our residents the best possible quality of life and the highest standards of 24-hour care.

For further information, please contact Senior Sister Hazel Gordon at T: +351 289 990 900

by Dora Guerreiro

AI hits the big time

UNTIL RECENTLY, CYNICS BELIEVED THAT ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE WAS THE TECHNOLOGY OF THE FUTURE AND ALWAYS WOULD BE. BUT THEN C hat GPT ARRIVED AND WE’RE IN A VERY DIFFERENT WORLD

Words: CHRIS PARTRIDGE

SUDDENLY, WE have a system that can search for information on any subject and write on it in correct, vernacular English. Its capabilities range from the trivial to the quite profound.

What is Rihanna’s favourite colour? ChatGPT says “Rihanna has stated in interviews that her favourite colour is green. In particular, she has mentioned that she likes ‘kelly green,’ which is a bright, vivid shade of green.”

What is the historical significance of the voyages of Henry the Navigator? ChatGPT lists his achievements in expanding Portuguese maritime power, not glossing over the slave trade and concludes: “Overall, Henry’s voyages were instrumental in advancing European exploration, colonisation and trade in the Age of Exploration, and helped establish the foundation for the globalised world we know today.”

It can even parody writing styles. I asked it to rewrite the opening to Dickens’ Tale of Two Cities in the style of Ernest Hemingway (because why not?) and it came up with: “In Paris, they did things differently than in London. It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, all at once. That’s how the story goes,

anyway.” Which is not bad really.

Understandably, there has been a lot of doom mongering about the devastation of whole strata of middle class jobs, a tidal wave of cheating at school and university and the undermining of democratic debate. And the end of the human race, more than likely.

I will discuss the probable impact of AI on society later, but first, how does it actually work?

A bit of explanation

The central structure of any AI is a neural network, an array of interconnected computer nodes called neurons that work together to process input data and produce output predictions.

Each neuron takes input values and applies weights and biases to produce an output signal that is applied to the next layer of neurons and the process continues until the final output is reached.

The network is trained by presenting it with a set of input-output pairs, the weights and biases

being adjusted to minimise the difference between the network’s predictions and the actual output. This is done manually. Once trained, the network is locked and can begin its work.

So far, neural networks have mainly been used for tasks such as image and speech recognition where traditional rule-based approaches are difficult or impossible to implement.

Far from perfect

AI systems have significant weaknesses, however. One is the need to train the system for each application, which is a lengthy and laborious process, but inadequate training can render the system as useless as trying to get a five-year-old to deliver legal judgements.

A more subtle weakness is unpredictable ignorance caused by skewed training data. Facial recognition systems, for example, work badly when presented with black faces simply because (in the US and Europe at least) they amount to less than 20 per cent of the population, so the number of black faces they get to practise on is much smaller than the number of white faces.

Previous attempts to create AI chat systems have been naive,

Tech Roundup

by our artificially intelligent correspondent ChatGPT

Mobile World Congress 2023 showcased an array of cutting-edge gadgets that are set to revolutionise the way we interact with technology. Here are some of the best:

health sensors, and a new blood pressure monitoring feature. It also boasts a longer battery life, faster charging, and more advanced fitness tracking capabilities.

assuming that it could use the internet unmoderated as a source of data. One chatbot had to be axed after only a few hours operation when it began spouting a firehose of racist and sexist material.

AI systems are also prone to over-enthusiasm. They simply must provide an answer. If the data is inadequate, they tend to make stuff up. And if the data is unclear or contradictory, they can go a bit loony and start “hallucinating” (genuine technical term).

Want to know more? There is no better way than experimenting with ChatGPT directly at chat.openai.com. It is fascinating and fun. A rival system from Google known as Bart will be available soon.

Are we doomed? Socrates feared that the invention of writing would sap men’s minds by eliminating the need to remember stuff. And according to many analysts, social media has already started the inevitable end of civilised society.

So no, I don’t think we are doomed but I could be wrong. Meanwhile, I have kick-started the demise of my own journalistic career by getting ChatGPT to write the tech roundup in the box below, asking it to feature the best gadgets from the recent Mobile World Congress in Barcelona.

Sadly, it did not do terribly well. The main problem is that training of the neural network ceased in September 2021, so if ChatGPT needs information about any subsequent event, it has to look it up and it is very lazy so it simply gets info out of its own database and dresses it up as current.

The gadgets listed by ChatGPT are all legit and the specs are correct – but they were not featured at MWC 2023.

I have to admit it is smoothly written. “Plausible bullshit” as the new AI catchphrase has it.

So ChatGPT makes stuff up. I know a few human jounalists that have been discovered doing that...

Samsung Galaxy Z Flip3 5G: Samsung’s latest foldable phone impressed with its sleek design and improved durability. The phone now has a tougher foldable glass screen and an IPX8 water resistance rating, making it more durable than its predecessors. It also boasts a powerful Snapdragon 888 processor and 5G connectivity.

Google Pixel 7: Google’s new flagship phone features a stunning 6.5-inch OLED display, a Snapdragon 895 processor, and 5G connectivity. It also includes a powerful new camera system that includes a 108-megapixel primary sensor and 5x optical zoom.

Apple Watch Series

8: The latest iteration of Apple’s popular smartwatch features a larger display, improved

Sony WF-1000XM5 earbuds: Sony’s latest wireless earbuds feature improved noisecanceling technology and a new Speakto-Chat feature that automatically pauses playback and activates ambient sound when you start talking. The earbuds also have a longer battery life and improved sound quality.

Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Fold: Lenovo's innovative foldable laptop impressed with its flexible OLED display and slim design. It also includes a stylus for note-taking and drawing, as well as 5G connectivity and a powerful Intel processor.

Overall, the gadgets showcased at MWC 2023 promise to deliver faster, more powerful, and more versatile experiences for tech enthusiasts and professionals alike.

I have kick-started the demise of my own journalistic career by getting ChatGPT to write the tech roundup on the right.

Especially for the summer season I have been on the lookout for fashion brands that are providing garments in materials which feel comfortable and keep you cool, and the obvious choice is linen and cotton.

Conventional cotton has ‘earned’ the title of being the dirtiest crop on earth. To grow cotton, vast amounts of pesticides, insecticides and fresh water are used.

About 100 million households are engaged in the growing process of producing cotton and 300 million people work in the cotton sector as a whole.

The majority of cotton farmers and workers live in developing countries, work extremely long hours, are exposed to toxic substances daily and are earning very poor wages. As a rule of thumb - if a cotton product is outrageously cheap, you know that someone else has paid the price.

Many of my clients are aware of this situation in the fashion industry and are looking for better products for themselves, and for the environment and the people involved in the production process. My aim therefore was, and is, to offer more garments in organic cotton and other sustainable materials.

This summer I will have comfy trousers in organic cotton, beautiful dresses in linen,

and tops, which are made of recource–saving materials like Lyocell.

If you want to have a positive impact on people and the planet, I recommend buying less, choosing well, and making it last.

KATE MOSS

International supermodel Kate Moss hails from lessthan-international Croydon, South London, but was discovered by a talent scout at JFK Airport in New York at the age of just 14. At that time, top models were taller and more statuesque, and Kate’s waif-like looks ushered in a new trend for very young, very slender girls. Although her look – sometimes described as ‘heroin chic’ – caused considerable controversy, Kate herself simply blossomed, and she worked with all the top designers and photographers of the era, from Levi’s to Calvin Klein to Dior and Alexander McQueen.

Even off-duty, Kate was a style-setter, seen at Glastonbury with her then-boyfriend Pete Docherty, wearing cut-off denim and Ugg boots and still managing to look fabulous. In spite of a – unproven – drug scandal and unfortunate quotes like “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels”, Kate continued to work successfully through the next decade, both as a model and as a designer. She has also sung backing vocals and appeared in pop videos.

Not surprisingly, her wedding in 2011 to musician Jamie Hince, when she wore a slip dress by John Galliano and was surrounded by a flock of little bridesmaids in white dresses, was one of the Weddings of the Year. She appeared in the closing ceremony of the London 2012 Olympics. She now lives in a tiny village in the Cotswolds and has her own model agency, where she looks after the models, telling them that if a job makes them feel uncomfortable they don’t have to do it…

Whatever happened to…

THREE WOMEN FROM VERY DIFFERENT BACKGROUNDS, MADE FAMOUS IN THEIR EQUALLY DIFFERENT CHOSEN CAREERS, AND THE STORE CHAIN THAT DELIVERED BARGAIN BASEMENT PRODUCTS BUT FAILED TO GET ITSELF PROPERLY REGISTERED FOR BUSINESS

Words: JILL ECKERSLEY

JENNIFER ANISTON

Once described as “sexy, funny and unmistakably real,” Jennifer Aniston was the best-known actress on TV in the 1990s as Rachel in the smash hit series Friends which aired from 1994 to 2004.

Born in California, ‘Jen’ is of Greek heritage – her godfather was Kojak himself, Telly Savalas. As a child in New York, she began acting in school plays before attending college and beginning her career in off-Broadway shows. Then came Friends, which is reputed to have made her the best-paid TV actress of all time. It also made her private life a source of endless fascination. She was married to Brad Pitt for five years and Justin Theroux for two years, with, it seemed, constant press speculation about whether ‘Jen’ would ever find lasting love or start a family. She took a 15-year break from TV after Friends and starred in a series of comedies on the big screen, as well as being co-founder of Echo Films.

In 2021 she took part in a TV special, Friends –The Reunion. She was also honest about her failed attempts at IVF but insists that “Women are complete with or without a mate, with or without a child!” making her just as popular with women viewers as she is with men.

Jennifer lives in a mansion in California, practises yoga and meditation, and is a supporter of many charities including the Red Cross and Medicins Sans Frontieres.

90s 1879

WOOLWORTHS

Hands up who remembers Pic ’n Mix, that TV ad about ‘the wonder of good old Woolies’? And Ladybird children’s clothes? A Woolworths store was a staple of British high streets – and elsewhere – for most of the 20th century, but it wasn’t a British invention.

The first Woolworth’s Great Five Cent Store was opened by entrepreneur Frank Winfield Woolworth in 1879 in Utica, New York. His idea – rockbottom prices for the mass market in stores with goods displayed and priced where customers could see them – seems obvious now but was revolutionary at the time. The first store failed, but was succeeded by others and by 1900 there were 59 in the USA.

F W Woolworth built the Woolworth Building in New York – an early skyscraper – in 1913, but sadly died in 1919. By that time Woolworths stores had appeared in Britain, at first in Northern cities but later in London suburbs and eventually in the West End.

However, what F W Woolworth failed to do was to register the company’s name worldwide – he omitted Australia and New Zealand. In the 1920s, an enterprising haberdashery salesman called Harold Christmas opened the first “Woolworth's (with an apostrophe) Stupendous Bargain Basement” in Australia and the chain of stores is still a big name there. The Woolworth name disappeared from the USA in 1997, and after several changes of ownership, the final UK stores ceased trading in 2009. But the Woolworth name still survives in Germany, and also in South Africa.

Outspoken and controversial from the start of her career, the Irish singersongwriter continues to make headlines. She is best known for her beautiful version of the Prince song Nothing Compares 2 You, which was a huge international hit in 1990. Since then, she has released ten albums, collaborated with many other artists and written songs for films. She has always been an activist, speaking out against sexism in the music industry and child abuse in the Catholic Church.

“What I do causes trouble. I’m proud to be a trouble-maker,” she once said, courting controversy by tearing up a photograph of the Pope on TV, shaving her head, being ordained as a priest by the Latin Tridentine Church, and embracing the Muslim faith in 2018.

She had a troubled childhood, accused her parents of abuse, had a difficult relationship with her siblings and has been open about her own struggles with mental health.

Sinead has been married four times and had four children. Tragically, her 17-year-old son died by suicide in 2017. In 2021 she published her autobiography, Rememberings, and announced that she would no longer be touring or promoting her music. However, she then agreed to tour in 2022 and also announced that she was training to become a healthcare assistant. Based today in Dublin, it seems likely that we can expect almost anything from a singer who has always gone her own way.

SINEAD O’CONNOR

STAND OUT FROM THE COMPETITION...

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Inheritance tax

MARK QUINN AND DEBRAH BROADFIELD OF THE SPECTRUM IFA GROUP FOCUS THIS MONTH ON THE INHERITANCE TAX (IHT)

IMPLICATIONS OF LEAVING THE UK AND POINT OUT THAT BRITISH

ARE LIKELY TO REMAIN LIABLE TO UK IHT

DEPARTURE.

TO UNDERSTAND why UK nationals have a liability to IHT we must understand the concept of domicile. There are actually four types of domicile, but relevant to most readers will be ‘domicile of origin’. Generally, you acquire your domicile of origin from your father – if he is British, you have a UK domicile and it is this that gives you your liability to IHT.

It is important to understand that domicile is different from tax residency; residency is based on your physical location - you can be a Portuguese tax resident and live in Portugal, never return to the UK but still have a UK domicile by virtue of your origin.

The main impact of domicile is that it determines your liability to UK IHT. Simply, if you are UK domiciled, then you are liable to UK IHT. Moreover, IHT is based on your worldwide assets so, whether it be an Australian property or a bank account in Portugal, it is all caught within the UK IHT tax ‘net’.

If you are UK domiciled and your worldwide estate is subject to IHT on death, and you are resident in Portugal, you could also have Portuguese succession tax liability. Portugal, however, only taxes assets that are located in Portugal, eg property, and that pass to non-direct line ascendants or descendants.

The UK/Portugal double tax treaty does not cover IHT and there is no automatic relief applied, so it is worth noting that there is a risk that double taxation might apply.

Can you avoid UK IHT?

Most people find IHT the most distasteful tax of all because, after working hard and having paid income tax, capital gains tax, stamp duty, VAT, etc, throughout their lives, the final ‘nail in the coffin’ is that the UK exchequer will take 40% of your estate on death.

- T he simplest way to mitigate UK IHT is to gift assets during your lifetime. You can gift an unlimited amount to beneficiaries and pay no tax if you survive seven years from the date of the gift – this is known as a “potentially exempt transfer”. Be careful, however, that you fully surrender the rights and enjoyment of the asset because if not, it will remain in your estate for UK IHT purposes, eg gifting property to your children but still living in it for free or at a reduced market rent.

- You can also take advantage of other gifting

exemptions, such as your annual allowance of £3,000 or ‘gifting out of normal expenditure’ – if you can demonstrate you have surplus income to your needs, you can regularly gift the excess each year and this will fall immediately outside of your estate.

- W hilst gifting is simple, some may not be comfortable relinquishing control just yet, so you could consider investment options such as a Qualifying Non-UK Pension Scheme (QNUPS). However, be careful, as if HMRC believe this is done for tax avoidance purposes, or it cannot be proved that it wasn’t, they can still tax this, so it must be managed carefully.

- You can ‘shed’ your UK domicile of origin by acquiring a new “domicile of choice”. You do this by moving to a new country and demonstrating your intention to remain there permanently. However, whilst it is easy to move country and change your tax residency, proving your intention is more challenging. HMRC does not have a prescribed list of ‘dos and don’ts’ but everything you do, say and leave behind can be used as evidence of your intention. Consider the case of Richard Burton, who after decades of living in Switzerland was deemed to have not shed his UK domicile because he had the Welsh flag draped over his coffin and was buried with a book of Dylan Thomas’s poems. HMRC successfully argued that he never truly severed ties with his ‘homeland’, Wales.

HMRC will not provide a certificate or determination of domicile during your lifetime, therefore meticulous recordkeeping is essential. It is the executors of your estate who will be presenting your non-domicile case after your death, as this is when a challenge might arise.

ASK THE EXPERTS

Debrah Broadfield and Mark Quinn are Chartered Financial Planners (level 6 CII) and Tax Advisers (UK ATT) with 20 years of combined experience advising expatriates in Portugal on cross-border financial and tax planning issues.

NATIONALS

EVEN MANY YEARS AFTER

YOUR money

RICARDO CHAVES IS ON THE PLUS TEAM AND ANSWERS YOUR QUESTIONS ON THE ISSUES THAT AFFECT YOUR LIFESTYLE HERE. THIS MONTH, HE EXPLAINS HEALTHCARE, CHARITY DONATIONS, AND THE SAFETY OF BANK DEPOSITS

Is it worth signing up at the local health centre and standing in line for what could be hours? Are there savings to be made for regular treatments and even things like x-rays and cataract ops?

If you are a resident of Portugal you are entitled to register at the local health centre to have access to the Portuguese Health System (SNS). Portugal ranks 25th in the 2023 Health Care Index by Numbeo and 16th in Europe. It has one of the best healthcare systems in the world, not far from the ranking of Germany or the UK, and above others such as Sweden or the US.

Healthcare in Portugal is under a hybrid system with good public and private services. National health coverage is comprehensive, including all medical care apart from dental care costs. This service is available to all citizens and legal residents of Portugal.

To access public healthcare, everyone must pay a small fee for consultations and tests. Emergency care is free, but all other services incur a charge, sometimes due immediately. Everyone can receive hospital care, but you will be charged if the Portuguese national health services, a reciprocal agreement, or private health insurance, do not cover you. Obviously, if you wish to avoid waiting lists, you have the option of contracting private health insurance.

Why do supermarkets keep asking if I want my NIF number of the receipt when I shop? Should I say yes, and what’s the advantage?

In Portugal, some of the tax deductions are based on the invoices you request with your NIF, and that is the main reason why you are asked, almost everywhere, if you want an invoice with your NIF.

In supermarkets, the tax deduction falls into the group of general expenses and it is €250 per household member (€500 per couple). As this deduction corresponds to 35% of the amount spent, it means that if you spend €715 per year, you reach the limit (this is valid for invoices from supermarkets and all other general expenses, including utility bills).

There are other deductions, such as Medical and Health (15% with a cap of €1,000 per household), education (30%), housing expenses (15%), alimony and child support (20%) and nursing facilities and home care expenses (25%). There are also several sectors where the government offers

you 15% of the VAT paid as a tax deduction; these are restaurants, hotels, hairdressers, vets, car maintenance and repairs amongst others.

If you have NHR status and your income is tax exempt, or if you pay tax at the flat rates of 10%, 20% or 28%, these deductions will not be considered in your tax return – these are for income streams that are taxed at the progressive tax rates.

You are not required to keep your invoices as they are automatically recorded on the tax portal (e-fatura portal), but it would be sensible to, in case you want to challenge the information in the portal.

I keep hearing mixed views on whether one should keep a large sum of money (the result of the sale of family jewellery) in a bank here. Is there a limit, and what protection is there if the bank goes into liquidation?

Customers who apply their savings in a deposit do not run the risk of losing the funds deposited. Regardless of the type of bank deposit, the credit institution must guarantee the depositor that it will reimburse the entire amount deposited on the due date or on the date allowed for early withdrawal if permitted. In the event of insolvency of a credit institution, the amounts invested in deposits are protected up to a maximum of €100,000, per credit institution and per depositor, whether the depositors reside in Portugal or not.

Are there any tax advantages if I donate part of my company’s (small company!) profits to a local charity?

If you have a business and pay corporate tax, any donations to charities are deductible up to 150% of the gift made, depending on the type of charity you donate to. If the donation is greater than €200, it should be done by bank transfer; you can also donate other items, such as assets or products of the company. The limit of the donation per year is 0.8% of your turnover. If you are a sole trader, you pay personal income tax and in this case the benefit is 25% of the donation with a limit of 15% of your tax bill.

You can choose to donate 0.5% of the tax you pay on your personal income tax return; this has no costs to you. Pick an organisation from a list of those eligible and the government will pay them 0.5% of the tax they are collecting from you.

The months ahead...

Northern Ireland protocol

The long-running dispute over the Northern Ireland protocol has caused headaches for the pound in years past. As London and Brussels sparred over post-Brexit trade borders in Ireland, markets grew anxious about the prospect of a UK-EU trade war.

However, it now seems that the two sides have agreed a deal. The threat of a trade war has faded and Britain should be able to negotiate new deals with the EU and the US – both of whom had ruled out talks until the protocol was resolved. However, many unionists still have their reservations. Prime Minister Rishi Sunak may face a rebellion from some MPs if they think the new deal is too soft and the domestic political backlash in the UK could still create turbulence.

Russia-Ukraine war

One year on, and Russia continues its illegal invasion of Ukraine. The war has taken a horrific toll, while also triggering food shortages, energy crises and rampant inflation around the world. Due to Europe’s former reliance on Russian energy and the continent’s proximity to the war, the conflict has also had a huge impact on the euro. And with the war raging on, the common currency could face ongoing headwinds. Some commentators believe Russia is preparing to launch a fresh ground offensive this spring, and President Vladimir Putin seemingly confirmed this in his recent state of the nation speech.

However, Russia’s military capacity is depleted after a year of heavy losses and devastating sanctions. Ukraine, on the other hand, seems stronger than it was one year ago, with Western countries donating high-tech weaponry and training Ukrainian forces. This has led some analysts to speculate that a Russian offensive of the scale seen at the beginning of the war is unlikely. A Ukrainian counteroffensive, however, looks increasingly probable.

For GBP/EUR, the ongoing conflict could continue to inject volatility in the pairing. Worries about escalations or fresh Russian attacks could hurt the euro, while Ukrainian victories or hopes of peace may support it. Expect to see the euro react to changing headlines.

Growing geopolitical tensions

Since Russia’s invasion, the global geopolitical landscape has grown more tense. In particular, the relationship between

the US and China – the two largest global economies – has soured significantly, with both countries backing opposite sides in the Russia-Ukraine war.

China has watched the West’s response to the conflict carefully, as it considers launching a similar campaign to take Taiwan, which Beijing views as a breakaway province.

Meanwhile, the war is straining relationships between other countries – those who oppose the war, support the war, or remain neutral – as well as political relationships within countries or unions, such as the differing opinions among EU member states.

Overall, the political and geopolitical landscape seems unstable. Any escalations – such as sanctions or military skirmishes – could rattle global investors.

Protecting your currency transfers

Amid this global uncertainty, there could be big swings ahead in the pound-euro exchange rate. This can create challenges when you’re transferring money abroad. Regular payments could vary from month to month, making it difficult to budget, while larger sums can change dramatically in value.

For instance, GBP/EUR moved between €1.11 and €1.14 from late January to late February. That three-cent change would amount to a €6,000 difference on a £200,000 transfer.

Fortunately, there are ways you can protect your transfers from volatility, such as working with a specialist currency broker like Currencies Direct.

Currencies Direct offer a range of transfer services, such as fixing a rate in advance or targeting a particular rate, to help you move your money when it’s right for you. On top of excellent exchange rates and flexible transfers, they pride themselves on giving their customers expert guidance and one-to-one support.

Currencies Direct has helped over 325,000 individuals and businesses move money abroad since 1996. They have an ‘Excellent’ Trustscore on Trustpilot, over 20 global offices and a team of more than 500 currency experts. You can move your money over the phone, or online and check live rates and make 24/7 transfers. Currencies Direct is authorised in the EU – this is crucial as any currency provider offering their services to customers in Portugal must be regulated by a relevant EU authority.

For more detailed information, please contact the local office T: 289 395 739 or register at currenciesdirect.com/portugal to get regular updates on the currency markets. (use AlgarvePLUS magazine as the reference).

JOS É ALMEIDA LOOKS AT THE POLITICAL AND GEOPOLITICAL FACTORS THAT COULD AFFECT GBP/EUR IN THE COMING MONTHS, AND HOW YOU CAN PROTECT YOUR TRANSFERS FROM THE ENSUING VOLATILITY

ISA LICHTENTHUM GABRIELLE HERBIET

Atelier 33, Olhão 964 629 083

Atelier33.negocio.site

Open Thursday and Friday

These two artists, one Belgian, the other Swiss, driven by their creative energy, imagined Atelier 33 together. Close to abstract expressionism, Gabrielle and Isa handle colours, light effects, lines and curves. Gabrielle looks for assemblies of forms and contrasts. Isa explores supports, materials and textures.

LUC LAVENSEAU

ArtCatto, Loulé, 289 419 447 info@artcatto.com | artcatto.com

From 14 April

Coeur Léger (2), oil on canvas, 100x81cm. This artwork is part of a new group exhibition that will feature artworks by Craig Alan, O Gringo, Luc Lavenseau, Dom Pattinson and new sculptures by Jürgen Lingl.

JOANA ROSA GRAGANZA

Gama Rama, Faro 961 371 891 gamaramagallery@gmail.com

gama-rama.com

14 April–10 June

Out of Orbit: Where do the birds hide? China ink on paper, 29.7x42cm.

LIZ ALLEN

Galeria Santo António, Monchique 282 910 200 – gallery lizallenart@gn.apc.org | liz-allen.com

Until 6 April Village near Monchique, acrylic on canvas, 51x76cm.

DANI FRANCO

Tavira d’Artes, Tavira 962 012 111 taviradartes@gmail.com taviradartes.com

New artist to the gallery. Peces Voladores de la Habana (Flying Fish in Havana), acrylic on canvas, 100x100cm.

MEINKE FLESSMAN

Alquatro, Almancil 289 395 732 alquatro@alquatro.pt alquatro.pt/

Summer Months. Acrylic on canvas, 100x73cm.

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

EXPERIENCES MUSIC

Amigos de Música

Os Agostos, Sta. Bárbara de Nexe reservasconcertos@gmail.com amigosdemusica.org

18 and 20 April, 19:00

República 14, Olhão

Reservas@re-criativarepublica14.pt Email for ticket prices, and to book.

6 April, 19:00 and 21:30

ARZAN WORLD MUSIC

2 April, 17:00 and 21:30

THE FOUR SEASONS

MASTERCHEF COOKERY CHALLENGE

Oscars Bar & Kitchen, Vilasol shebangpr@icloud.com shebangonline.co.uk

Lisbon-based Norwegian pianist Anne Kaasa, described by Le Monde de la Musique as “a pianist that stands out in the crowded world of soloists by the depth of her interpretations, the fluidity of her playing, as well as the precision and the delicacy of her touch”, will give a solo recital including works by Bartók, Prokofiev, Enrique Granados, Manuel de Falla, Chopin, Ravel and Astor Piazzolla, on the 18th, and she will be joined by Marie José Falcão, cello and Esther Georgie, clarinet, as a trio for an evening of Brahms on the 20th.

For more information about the Amigos de Música visit the website; for membership enquiries contact helga.hampton@gmail.com

LIBERATION DAY

25 April is a National Holiday in Portugal – and an important one – celebrating the bloodless Carnation Revolution of 1974 in which the Estado Novo dictatorship was overthrown.

Arzan, with the singing of wind instruments enlivened by a base of percussion, double bass and keyboards. The diversity of colours and musical rhythms mirrors that of instruments and languages. They come from India, China, Persia, Ireland, from the reefs or the highlands, from unexplored frontiers or an imaginary Eldorado. Ivan Le Saint, double bass; Eric Ganter, percussion; Kevin Le Saint, multi-instrumentalist, flutes, bags, duduk, pipe, keyboards; Theo Pichard, keyboards and vocals.

Vivaldi’s complete work transposed for two accordions. Inês Vaz and Pedro Santos, virtuosos of the instrument, play the four concertos (originally composed for violin and orchestra). This promises to be a treat.

18 April, 12:00

Adults only. Teams of two, ingredients provided. €70 per couple. Kicks off with a demonstration by Jonnie Pratt of Tribulum. Great prizes to be won.

EASTER WORKSHOP

Aude Touly Os Agostos Sta. Bárbara de Nexe floweraude@gmail.com

6 April, 14:30–15:00

€40

Learn to make an Easter floral arrangement from the expert! Everything is included and there’s a tea time break with home baked Portuguese folar.

EASTER FUN FOR THE YOUNG

Partee Family Park info@partee.pt info@uandco.pt partee.pt / unandco.pt

7 April: Hop at Easter, screened at the outdoor cinema

8 April: Easter egg hunt, bouncy castle and live music

9 April: Easter egg art – themed decorating workshop for children

National Youth Harp Orchestra

Vale do Lobo Auditorium

13 April, 20:00–21:15 289 353 322, events@vdl.pt

Tickets €20

The NYHO is made up of the most dedicated young British harpists, aged from ten to 22 years old. It is classed as a charity, providing funding for the talented young musicians, contributing significantly to the orchestra’s general costs and supporting some exceptional opportunities, such as concert tours.

ALL ABOUT COFFEE

bean17 and more Roastery

Rua da Barbacã 22 (opposite the castle)

12 and 26 April, 17:00–18:30

All about coffee, and the opportunity to see the roastery process, and buy the very best.

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

AMIGOS DO MUSEU

Museu do Traje

São Brás 966 329 073

admin@amigosdomuseu.com amigosdomuseu.com

11 April, Quiz, 19:00, €3.50

14 April, Film, The Truffle Hunters (in Italian with subtitles in English), 18:00

€4 (€2 Amigos)

15 April, Opening of art collective, 15:00

15 April, Concert by the choir, Amigos Coro, with sacred and secular music – predominantly classical, 19:00, €12 (€10 Amigos)

16 April, Jazz concert by Cory Sea & Manuela Lopes, 17:00

27 April, Book fair, 10:00–13:00

30 April Fado concert, 21:00, €5

QUINTA SHOPPING EASTER FAIR

10:00–18:00, in conjunction with Loulé Criativo – live workshops, exhibition and sale of handcrafted products created by local designers and artisans.

QUINTA SHOPPING EASTER EVENT

8 April, 10:00–14:00

In partnership with the Elaine Bain Family Trust, and for the benefit of the Mudaki Project (Almancil), all ages can enjoy pyrography, modelling with paste, magic paints (that grow in the microwave), face painting and more.

TAVIRA SPRING FAIR

22-25 April

There will be something to see wherever you are in the town, from stalls selling artisan products, to gardening workshops to folk dancing. Things get started at 10:00, and carry on well into the evening. Get there earlier to park.

Workshops

KIT & CABOODLE WORKSHOPS

Armazém 1-3

Caminho de Cerro de Galo

Almancil 8135-028

289 394 257 / 916 432 881 sales@kitandcaboodle.pt kitandcaboodle.pt

From ceramic classes to furniture painting techiques and portrait painting, there’s an ongoing programme of classes and courses that will bring out your inner creative talents. Check out what’s on and book early as places get taken up super fast.

LOUL É CRIATIVO WORKSHOPS

Visit the website for dates and details – there’s so much more than we have room to list!

289 400 829 loulecriativo@cm-loule.pt loulecriativo.pt

CREATIVE EMBROIDERY –EASTER MOTIF

2 April, 16 hour course

Oficina dos Têxteis, Loulé

Contact: Flavia Ferreira

SPRING MARKET

Vale do Lobo Auditorium and gardens

15 and 16 April , 10:00–18:00

289 353 261/307, events@vdl.pt valedolobo.com/en/events/vale-do-lobo-spring-market-2023

Family fun and entertainment, food and drink – wines, flowers, cookies, cakes, gourmet products – and some of the best regional handicrafts and products. Entertainment for children (face painting, balloon modelling, games, etc.) will be available on both days, provided by Oficina de Sonhos.

To register: flaviaferreiradias@gmail.com 967 180 34

PORTUGUESE PRONUNCIATION TRICKS FOR BEGINNERS

22 April

Palácio Gama Lobo, Loulé

Contact: Portuguese with Anita

To register: anitasportuguese lessons@gmail.com

SMYRNA: STITCH-LATCH HOOKING FOR BEGINNERS

22 April

Oficina dos Têxteis, Loulé

Contact: Sara Monteiro

To register: hortasara@ hotmail.com

TAPESTRY WORKSHOPS FOR

CHILDREN

6 April

Oficina dos Têxteis, Loulé

Contact: Susana Mendez

To register: 961 238 388

AND f inally

HANDS UP FOR A GOOD MEAL. ANTHONY MARTIN RECKONS THAT THE CHINESE POPULATION HERE CHOOSES TO EAT AT HOME WHERE THEY ’ LL EAT WELL, RATHER THAN IN THE RESTAURANTS THAT TRY TO BE ALL THINGS TO ALL PEOPLE

THE CHINESE community in Portugal is one of the oldest due to the country’s colonial and trade history with Macau dating back to the 16th century. There are about 30,000 people of Chinese descent residing in Portugal today. Some members of the Chinese community in Mozambique also moved to Portugal when the process of decolonisation began in the 1970s and its independence drew near.

(source: Wikipedia)

So why is it, with 30,000 Chinese people living here, I can’t get a decent Chinese meal in the Algarve? They can’t all be eating Caldo Verde followed by Bacalhau à Brás. And the last ‘Chinese’ restaurant I went to was staffed solely by a group of Nepalese who, despite their charm and good looks, didn't appear to know the difference between dim sum and prawn crackers. Instead of learning to cook, did they spend their time channelling their inner Sherpa Tenzing by guiding tourists wearing layers of woollies across Mount Everest’s South Col?

But, while the Brits hunt out a Sunday lunch of beef with Yorkshire pudding, presumably the Dutch yearn for raw herring with chopped onions, the Germans a nice bowl of Sauerkraut and the French a meaty Cassoulet, what of the Chinese? Where and what do they eat? As I don’t see them in restaurants, perhaps they only eat at home – very sensible if you ask me, why should they have to suffer spring rolls, beef in oyster sauce, sweet and sour pork and all the other staples, slopping about in monosodium-glutamate, that we Brits have been ordering since Chairman Mao was top dog? And I’d lay odds that when they do sit down to eat at home they don’t, like the restaurants here, run out of pancakes and Hoisin sauce when there is plenty of shredded duck left.

Possibly the main reason they don’t suffer it is that they don’t eat it. These dishes we are served have been westernised to suit our gweilo palates. It is often said

that countries get the leaders they deserve, well I also believe that restaurants get the clients they deserve, and clients get the restaurants they deserve, and if those restaurants constantly serve crap food, drowned in MSG, they will get crap guests.

Said crap guests eat their meal and, being Brits, however bad it is, don’t complain as the food is identical to the Chinese meal they had the previous month at the ‘Cheeky Geisha’ in Great Puddleton-on-the-Tees. The only difference being that the fried banana didn’t come with a sea view.

But I’m at fault here as much as the next man: I don’t complain. I just make a mental note not to return. Therefore, the restaurant carries on serving inferior food, no one comments, and the cycle continues.

Years ago in the olden days, or should that be golden days of the late 1970s, when my family and I discovered the delights of this thin strip of land on the edge of the Continent, where frozen food was unknown, chips were hand-cut and the few local existing restaurants took pride in producing delicious food for us estrangeiros who, most of the time, had no idea what we were eating but we couldn’t wait to return to sample more.

It was here I was introduced to baby calamari, chocos and lulas. Sardines, while sitting at trestle tables at Portimão harbour, straight off the boat, rolled in salt and onto the barbeque, served with a rough red wine and a chunk of delicious bread. What’s not to love?

Well, that was my take on it, but many of my countrymen took, and still take, a dim view of ‘foreign’ food and look for signs that proclaim ‘English Breakfast – bacon, sausages, egg and beans’, which is, I think, why they are comfortable in Chinese restaurants, as there is one in every UK high street. As for my choices, I now have a problem next February with Chinese New Year, which we always celebrate with a Chinese friend. I could, of course, switch to celebrating Buddha’s birthday – but I don’t like Indian food.

I’m at fault here, too. I don’t complain. I just make a mental note not to return.