WAttention TOHOKU 2018 Autumn & Winter SPECIAL EDITION 5TH Issue

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Tohoku

Explore Japan’s Rich Heritage in Tohoku’s Six Prefectures and Niigata

Winter in Tohoku: A memorable vacation with furry friends

A Plethora of Winter Activities for All! Enter the snow kingdom of Tohoku

Journey with Matsuo Basho: Haiku master and adventurer The Sea of Japan lined with Hina Dolls A timeless love story

www.wattention.com/tohoku-special

Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization http://en.tohokukanko.jp

Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata and Fukushima — these six prefectures, along with Niigata, are the picture of idyllic perfection and home to rich cultures passed down through generations. This is where you can experience Japan in its most authentic and raw form.

Situated in the northeastern part of Honshu, Tohoku faces the Sea of Japan, the Pacific Ocean and the Tsugaru Strait. While Japan has made great strides in development over the past centuries, the Tohoku region retains its old-world charms, traditional lifestyle and culture.

Astounding sceneries, shrines with long histories, and a unique way of life maintained by friendly people making distinctive local dishes; every spot and every individual has a story waiting to be discovered.

It’s time to embark on an exciting journey in search of the Japan not yet discovered.

In Japan, the regional divisions or prefectures are called "Ken" while cities are called “Shi”.

This magazine uses the term "-ken" to refer to prefectures and “-shi” to refer to cities.

C o nt e nt s

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Winter in Tohoku: A memorable vacation with furry friends Get up close with fluffy, cute foxes at Zao Fox Village Amazing Water World: Umino-mori Dolphin Show, Jellyfish Dream Theater Odate, Akita: the home of the Akita Inu breed of dogs, loved by the world Inukko Festival, Almost as famous as their dogs is Odate city’s renowned Kiritanpo-nabe

A plethora of winter activities for all!

Enter the snow kingdom of Tohoku Enjoy the sights of nature in powder snow paradise Appi Kogen Urabandai, Fukushima: Another great destination for winter fun!

Three Famous Snow Monsters The Kamakura culture of Akita-ken

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Journey with Matsuo Basho: Haiku master and adventurer Spectacular Views of Matsushima Bay Encounter Pure Land Buddhism in Hiraizumi Nostalgic and Picturesque Yamadera and Mogamigawa Kisakata: An Exceptional View of the Past

12-1 4 The Sea of Japan lined with Hina Dolls A timeless love story The Hina dolls of Murakami The Hina dolls heirloom of Tsuruoka The Hina dolls of Sakata

Cover Photo: Urabandai, Fukushima-ken (P06)

Publisher

Graphic Designer

Yasuko Suzuki / WAttention CO., Ltd

Kenji Ishida

Associate Editor

Photographers

Yuka Suzuki

Yoma Funabashi, Chris Mollison, Noboru Hanamura

Editorial Team Nancy Liu, Ellen Hwang, Chew Yan Qiao, Michelle Kan, Lam Ying Wai

Supported by Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization http://en.tohokukanko.jp

平成 30 年度訪日外国人旅行者周遊促進事業費補助金 フリーマガジン発行、配布事業

WAttention CO., Ltd Kurashima Shibuya Bld. 2-3-8-401 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan 150-0002 Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com HP: http://www.wattention.com

Winter in Tohoku: A memorable vacation with furry friends The Tohoku region can get extremely cold in winter, but it’s easy to forget all about that when you’re surrounded by adorable native animals. For animal lovers, spend some time at the Zao Fox Village in Miyagi-ken or head to Akita-ken to see Japan’s indigenous Akita Inu.

Get up close with fluffy, cute foxes at Zao Fox Village Found in Miyagi-ken’s Shiroishi-shi, the Zao Fox Village is home to about 100 foxes of six dif ferent species.

Roaming freely within the grounds, visitors are encouraged to interact with the furry critters throughout the year. This is also the sole fox-themed zoo on Honshu and specialises in fox-breeding research.

Every November, the foxes start to grow a thick layer of velvety fur which keeps them warm in the bitter cold. It is also this extra layer of downy fur that further elevates their adorable, innocent appearance. In the free-roaming zone, you can observe the foxes’ daily lives — some may scamper up to you with curiosity, while others play or sleep. Be sure to follow the instructions from the staff to avoid getting hurt. During your visit, you can even get to cuddle a baby fox at an extra charge!

After your “date” with the Zao foxes, why not stop by Umenbansho for a meal? Located just 20 minutes by car from the fox village, the famous noodle shop has been making Shiroishi-style umen noodles since the Edo period (1603-1868). The origins of the dish can be traced back to a travelling monk who taught a young man how to make healthy noodles for his sick father. Made without using oil, the simple yet delicious noodles are shorter than ordinary ones and can be easily digested.

Umino-mori Dolphin Show

▲ Zao Fox Village: http://zao-fox-village.com/en ▲ Assorted umen noodles by Umenbansho: http://umenbansho.com/index.php (Japanese)

Amazing Water World

Jellyfish Dream Theatre

The Sendai Umino-mori Aquarium

Check out the estimated 60 species

is famous for its giant tank

of jelly f ish at Kamo Aquarium, a

displaying a wide variety of species

unique aquarium found in Tsuruoka-

from the Sanriku Ocean. Dynamic

shi in Yamagata-ken. This attraction

dolphin and sea lion performances

holds the Guinness World Record for

are staged at the outdoor arena

having the most jellyfish species on

every day, where you can watch as

display. These mysterious creatures

they leap, spin and splash at their

with gelatinous bodies look especially

trainers’ orders. Visitors also have

intriguing as they f loat in a large,

the chance to feed penguins and

round water tank against a backdrop

interact with them, making a day

of changing colours. Don’t forget to try

here an unforgettable experience

the popular Jellyfish Ice Cream which

for the whole family.

is topped with crunchy dried jellyfish.

Sendai Umino-mori Aquarium:

Jellyfish Dream Theatre in Kamo Aquarium:

http://www.uminomori.jp/umino/en/index.html

https://kamo-kurage.jp/ ( Japanese)

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Odate, Akita: the home of the Akita Inu breed of dogs, loved by the world

Akita Inu: Hokuto in Mt. Moriyoshi Ani Ski Resort

The city of Odate, Akita-ken in northern Japan, is home to the breed of dog known as Akita Inu, universally adored for their cute, curly tails; point y triangular ears; and fluff y fur. However, Akita Inu, recognised as a naturall y protec ted species in nati ve Japan, are more than just cute companions; thanks to the breed’s appearance in the 2009 film Hachi: A Dog’s Tale starring Richard Gere, the story of the dog with a winning personality touched the hearts of audiences around the globe and helped introduce the region of Akita to the world. The dogs, originally used as hunting companions by the traditional winter hunters of the Tohoku region – known in Japanese as matagi – are resistant to the cold and are extremely loyal towards their masters. For those who would like to meet an Akita Inu, Odate is definitely the place to do it. At "Akita Inu Fureaidokoro" (meeting point) in Odate, located at the JR Odate train station, visitors can meet the station’s four-legged mascot: Asuka the Akita Inu. At the Akita Dog Museum, there’s more to do than just seeing the dogs in person, you can learn all about their histor y, territor y, and stories through the exhibits on display. Before meeting them, it is best to get a general understanding of the dogs' tendencies. When touching an Akita dog, please take note of some of the precautions from the following site.

▲ Asuka in "Akita Inu Fureaidokoro" ▲

▲ In front of Akita Dog Museum

http://www.city.odate.akita.jp/dcity/kankou/29-8579.html

Inukko Festival Held on the second Saturday of February is another Akita draw : t h e Inuk ko fe s t i v al where Akita Inu take centre stage. Running for over 4 0 0 year s , t he fe s t i v al in Akita’s Yuzawa area features snow sculptures of dogs in appreciation of their loyalty.

Visitors also have a chance to meet Akita Inu in person and see doggy parades.

Yuzawa: 40-min ride from Ōmagari Station ( JR Ōu Line, JR Akita Shinkansen)

▲ Dog sculptures and shrine made out of snow outside of the city hall ▲

Almost as famous as their dogs is Odate City’s renowned Kiritanpo-nabe Rice, first mashed, stuck onto a cryptomeria skewer, then roasted, is added to a stew with chicken and vegetables like Japanese parsley. The origins of “Kiritanpo” came from hunters in the past who used to eat it as a staple in their mountain huts. Kiritanpo originated in Odate, so if you’re heading up there, don’t miss this local delicacy.

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A plethora of winter activities for all!

Enter the snow kingdom of Tohoku Covered in the thick snowfall of Tohoku, the vast expanse of white, stretching as far as the eye can see, is a familiar sight to anyone who has experienced the harsh winters of northern Honshu. Many travellers looking to experience the gorgeous sights in store for them make their way to this region every year to enjoy the fluffy white snow and winter activities. Step into the snow kingdom of Tohoku and discover its charms for yourself!

Enjoy the sights of nature in powder snow paradise Appi Kogen Located in Iwate Prefecture, Appi Kogen is definitely high in the running – if not the best – when it comes to skiing. Wide slopes make it perfect for beginners, and with 21 courses available, intermediate and advanced skiiers will certainly find something suitable for their level. Famous for its extremely fine and light snow, Appi Kogen has earned its nickname “The 40 degree latitude powder paradise”.

But there’s more to the area than just skiing. Visitors can also strap on a pair of snowshoes and trek through guided courses through forests right next to Appi Grand Hotel. Wandering through the wilderness here is an exhilarating experience. At times, snowfall is so deep that it can even reach up to your knees. As you pass through the snow-covered paths while admiring the gorgeous white birch trees, try figuring out which animal the tracks belong to. Your trekking guide will also lead you to roll through the thick snow, get covered in

Driving snow buggy

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falling snow from tree branches, and even slide down snow slides. Much like an outdoor classroom, you will get to learn all sorts of things about Mother Nature and even discover things you have never noticed before.

Aside from trekking through the forest in your snowshoes, you can even sign up for a session of star gazing. Get on a snowbike and you will be led to a specific location, where you can enjoy marvellous views of the stars at night―a thoroughly romantic experience not to be missed! If it gets too cold out, you can even warm yourselves up with a delectable cheese hot pot inside the snow huts stationed in the vicinity. Enough of observing the skies? Feel free to hop on a snowbike and go on a ride to see more of the area. While skiing is still the number one draw, the place also provides all sorts of wintertime entertainment.

Winter activities in Appi: http://www.appi-japan.com/winter/ Hotel Appi Grand: http://www.appi-japan.com/resort-info/ hotel-appi-grand.html

Try snow rafting

Fun snowshoe hike

Cheese fondue in Kamakura

A session of star gazing

Urabandai , Fuku shima: Another great destination for winter fun!

Similar to the Appi Kogen region in winter, the Urabandai area is a wonderland of powder snow, where one can enjoy a myriad of winter activities besides skiing and snowboarding. After a major volcanic eruption of Mt.

Snowmobiling

“Yellow Fall”

Fried Wakasagi

Wakasagi Fishing

Bandai in the past, a beautiful crater lake formed ― Lake Hibara. Experience snowmobiling on the frozen lake, or wakasagi smelt ice fishing! Put on your snow shoes and trek through other surrounding attractions including the Goshikinuma trail, or maple-beech forests where you can admire giant beech trees that are over 300 years old. The frozen waterfall “Yellow Fall”, is also a "Blue Fall"

popular spot nearby.

Urabandai Tourism Official Website: http://www.urabandai-inf.com/?page_id=25649

Three Famous Snow Monsters

Don’t fret! Japan doesn’t have any abominable snowmen; just beautiful, amazing frost covered trees known colloquially as “snow monsters” scattered throughout the Tohoku region.

Aomori “Mt. Hakkoda” Aomori-shi

Yamagata “Zao” Yamagata-Shi

A s k ii e r ’s p a ra di s e , M t .

Hakko da in Aomori is a great getaway for those looking to experience some of the best slopes that Japan has. Riding down the hills with gorgeous snow monsters lining the way is something any winter sports enthusiast will surely treasure. Mt. Hakkoda is easily accessible by ropeway.

The snow monsters in Zao, Yamagata feature beautiful illumination, amplif ying t h e ir lu min e s ce n ce a n d s p l e n d o r, s hinin g s il ve r during the day and full of other colors gleaming in the darkness at night. You can take the ropeway and the gondola to reach the top of the mountain from Zao Onsen.

60-min ride from JR Aomori Station or JR

45-min bus ride from JR Yamagata Station to

Shin-Aomori Station Bus Stop to Hakkoda

Zao Onsen

Akita “Mt. Moriyoshi” Kitaakita-shi Just a quick walk from the top of the Ani gondola, Mt. Moriyoshi in Akita boasts a plethora of breathtaking Maries’ firs, glistening with frost as beautiful snow monsters. Come lose yourself in this amazing winter wonderland.

Mt. Hakkoda

100-min ride from Kakunodate Station until Mt. Moriyoshi Ani Ski Resort

Ropeway Base Station

Zao

Mt. Moriyoshi

The Kamakura culture of Akita-ken An important traditional aspect of the region, Kamakura in the Tohoku area refer to snow huts, differing in sizes and construction. Akita Prefecture alone is home to three different types of festivals that celebrate the culture of these little snow domiciles. In Northern Tohoku, the Rokugo Kamakura Festival-where bamboo pole fights are held - is known as one of Japan’s more dangerous “bizarre festivals”. Meanwhile, located inland in the Northern Tohoku lies Kakunodate town. Considered to be one of Japan’s “little Kyoto”, you can observe the Hiburi Kamakura Festival with participants all riled up, swinging fireballs made from straw in gigantic rings around themselves. This act is a symbol of prayer for good health.

Kakunodate’s Hiburi kamakura

The kinds of Kamakura that most people are familiar with can be seen in Yokote City, which is also home to a Kamakura festival that has been practiced for over 450 years. During ancient times, the people of the region built their snow huts close to wells, making offerings to water deities. Children in the past also used to play near these areas. Presently, these Kamakuras are home to shrines. Visitors are allowed to make supplications there, and children can go into the snow huts to drink delicious amazake ( 甘酒 , a sweet non-alcoholic rice drink) and eat yakimochi

( 焼餅 , roasted sticky rice cakes). After seeing how much the lives of the locals are built around the Kamakura, one can’t help but acknowledge its divine presence and respect the Japanese people’s appreciation for the surrounding nature.

Akita Tourism Official Website: http://www.akitafan.com/en

Yokote Kamakura Matsuri

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Journey with Matsuo Basho: Haiku master and adventurer

Matsuo Basho

(1644-1694)

Known as the greatest haiku poet in Japan, Matsuo Basho left Edo, present day Tokyo, in 1689 to set out on a 150-day journey to Tohoku and Hokuriku. His various experiences during the trip inspired a haiku-filled travelogue that was later published under the title “Oku-no-hosomichi” ( 奥 の細 道 ), meaning “The Narrow Road to the Deep North”. Today, the book is considered one of the best works in Japanese literature.

During his venture, Matsuo Basho spent many moments admiring the scenery and penning down haiku poems which captured the emotions he felt there and then. These actions are similar to what modern travellers do when on vacation; we share a photo or video with a caption expressing how we felt at that moment. Let us now retrace the haiku master’s footsteps to find out the source of his inspiration.

Spanning 2,400 kilometres, the trail mentioned in Oku-no-hosomichi consists of roads that lead to Nikko ( 日光 ), Oshu ( 奧州 ), Dewa ( 出羽 ) and Hokuriku ( 北 陸 ). Two of the more interesting paths are Oshu and Dewa, as they are full of breathtaking sights, passing through the three Tohoku prefectures of Miyagi, Iwate and Yamagata. Some of the must-sees on this trail include: Matsushima, one of the top three most scenic spots in Japan, UNESCO World Heritage Site Hiraizumi, the Yamadera temple with a history of over 1,100 years, the Mogamigawa River that flows through the northern border of Yamagata-ken, and Kisakata, the northern tip of the Oku-no-hosomichi trail.

Thanks to technological advancements today, we don't have to wander through the mountains and rivers like Matsuo Basho to reach these sites. With ef ficient use of public transpor t, we can easily access the aforementioned historic places of interest and natural wonders.

According to historical records, Mastuo Basho embarked on his journey on the 27th of March (based on the ancient Japanese calendar), leaving Edo for Japan’s Deep North. Travelling mainly on foot, he arrived in the Tohoku region about two months later, around early to mid-May, where spring just greeted the region. This time however, we set off at the beginning of November to trace his steps and explore the autumn colours of Oku-no-hosomichi.

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi 1891 One Hundred Aspects of the Moon - Poet Basho and Moon Festival

Statue of Basho Matsuo at Chuson-ji Temple

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Mogamigawa River

Spectacular Views of Matsushima Bay Upon arrival at Miyagi-ken, we headed to our first stop; the Shiogama Jinja Shrine. With a long history dating back to the 9 th century, the shrine houses a collection of ancient votive lanterns that Matsuo Basho once used when he visited.

When we stopped by, the exterior of the shrine was covered in beautiful hues of vivid red and yellow from the foliage.

Located in the same precinct, Shiwahiko Shrine is where one can enjoy an unobscured view of Matsushima Bay. Celebra te d as one of Jap an ’s top t hre e s cenic sp ot s , Matsushima Bay features 260 islets of varying sizes scattered across the sea. It was even said that this million dollar view was the very reason why the haiku poet embarked on this journey in the first place, as he wanted to see the beauty firsthand.

It was unfortunate though, that Matsuo Basho did not leave us with any haiku poem about Matsushima. Maybe this is his way of telling everyone to come and see for themselves the beauty of Matsushima!

Kawai Sora, Matsuo Basho’s accompanying disciple, once wrote a haiku poem while on Oshima Island (connected to Matsushima via a bridge) expressing his regret that the blossoming azalea could not sing like cranes and add to the island’s charm. Despite not being able to hear what Sora yearned for, the amazing panoramic view of foliage-covered forests was more than enough to satisfy us. Among the many attractions that Matsushima has to offer, the Entsuin Temple, Zuiganji Temple and Kanrantei Tea House are not to be missed.

Shiogama Shrine

The gardens of Entsuin Temple

Red bridge to Godaido Temple

Kanrantei Tea House

Encounter Pure Land Buddhism in Hiraizumi Af ter arriving at Iwate-ken, we enjoyed a calming cruise down Geibikei, a gorge with impressive limestone features stretching two kilometres long. As we sailed down the river, we took the chance to soak in the therapeutic sounds of the bamboo paddles hitting the rocks at the bottom of the water while watching wild geese play by the river banks. Upon reaching Genbikei River, the warm colours of autumn once again left us speechless with wonder. The abundance of koyo ( 紅 葉 , autumn leaves) was truly a sight to behold; this was no doubt one of the best places for momijigari ( 紅葉狩り, Japanese tradition of visiting areas to admire autumn leaves).

We later arrived at Tohoku’s first World Heritage Site — Hiraizumi. Based on historical records, Matsuo Basho’s stay here was no more than a couple of hours. We spent most of our time at Chuson-ji Temple, which dates back to the Heian period (794-1185), appreciating the fine craftsmanship of its main hall covered completely in gold. The path leading to the temple is lined with majestic cedar trees that were around 300 to 400 years old, adding to the meditative atmosphere of the compound.

Konjikido(Golden Hall) © Chuson-ji Temple

Cruise down Geibikei

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Nostalgic and Picturesque Yamadera and Mogamigawa On our way to Yamagata-ken, we made a detour to drop by Hojinno-ie Inn, the only remaining inn out of the ones that Matsuo Basho stayed in. According to records, Matsuo Basho was in the area during the rainy season and therefore had to put up a few nights at the inn due to poor road conditions. The place became famous due to his extended period of stay, as he passed the time by composing many haiku poems at this very inn. Since the inn's name literally means “house for those living at the borders”, a former border checkpoint nearby called “Shitomae-no-seki” erected a statue of the famous poet to commemorate his visit.

Soon after departing the inn, we made our way to Risshakuji Temple where Matsuo Basho composed the famous haiku poem “deep silence—the shrill of cicada—seeps into rocks.” Despite its official name as Risshakuji Temple, it is more commonly referred to as Yamadera Temple (literally meaning mountain temple) and is a popular pilgrimage spot for the poet’s fans from both Japan and across the world. With over 30 unique structures to admire in the precincts of Yamadera Temple, you won’t run out of things to see. At the peak of the mountain stands an observation deck called Godaido Hall, where we enjoyed extraordinary views of the valley below.

Basho Onboard Place

Three hundred years ago, Matsuo Basho and his disciple Kawai Sora took a boat down the Mogamigawa River to see the famed Dewa Sanzan―three sacred mountains located in Yamagataken. We hopped on a boat to experience the river ourselves, taking in the different shades of autumn colors along the way.

Much to our delight, the captain not only explained the scenery in detail but also sang local folk songs, and even made a short stop at a store where freshly grilled fish was served. Once the only form of transport used during Matsuo Basho’s time, the scenic boat ride has since developed into one of the major attractions in the area!

Mogamigawa River Cruise Godaido Hall on top of Yamadera

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Kisakata: An Exceptional View of the Past Kisakata of Akita-ken is the northernmost destination mentioned in Okuno-hosomichi. It was once nicknamed “Kujuku Island” ( 九 十 九 島 , 99 islands) because of the many islets floating in its cove. While Matsushima stole the limelight as the top scenic spot of eastern Japan, Kisakata used to be known as the most beautiful sight of western Japan during the Edo period(1603-1868).

Unfortunately, after an eruption of Mt. Chokaisan that caused the sea bed to rise, these islands are no longer filled with water, but land. We can only imagine what Matsuo Basho would have seen when the small paddy fields filled with water. The islands still resemble its ancient image, when the rice paddies fill with water before planting season.

Matsushima

Matsuo Basho's poetry preserved the images that are no longer there, helping us imagine the ocean water surrounding the islets during the Edo period, or making us see the ocean in the shallow water covering the rice fields.

Kisakata

Information board in Kisakata

Natagiri-toge Pass of Oku-no-hosomichi

Hojin-no-ie: the Border Guard's House

Naruko Gorge and Ofukazawa Bridge (Oku-no-Hosomichi Yukemuri Line)

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Genbikei Gorge

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5 1: Mochi set meals of Hiraizumi 2: Matcha tea with sweets at Kanrantei 3: Food and view are equally enjoyable in Sakata 4: Delicious seafood cuisine in Sakata Geibikei Gorge

5: Eating grilled fish on the boat

WHAT IS HAIKU? Haiku is a micro poem, a ver y short Japanese poetic form consisting of only 17 syllables.

Traditionally written as one vertical line, the syllables are now usually distributed in a 5-7-5 pattern across three lines and the cutting word (kireji) is imbued with meaning. The goal of these cuts is to create juxtaposing images. A haiku has to contain a kigo (seasonal keyword) which further colours the poem and anchors it in time.

Matsuo Basho is one of the most famous haiku masters in Japan. He lived and wrote in the 17th century and elevated the status of haiku to sublime poetry.

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Oku-nohosomichi

Kisakata Hiraizumi Yamadera Matsushima

Edo (Tokyo)

The Sea of Japan lined with Hina Dolls A timeless love story

Kikkawa’s Hina dolls

Every year on the 3 rd of March, Japan celebrates Hina-matsuri, also known as “Doll’s Day” or “Girl’s Day”. During this time of the year, it is customary for Japanese parents to display ornamental dolls or Hina dolls and pray for the happiness and health of their daughters as they grow up. Some elaborate displays even feature a magnificent five-tiered stand, commonly referred to as the "hinadan". Each platform holds dolls of unique origin, and some of them have even been passed down in the family for generations. Hina dolls not only symbolise the love parents have for their daughters, but also embody the rich culture and heritage of Japan.

The coastal region along the Sea of Japan in Tohoku prospered as ports for kitamaebune ( 北 前 船 , northern-bound ships) cargo vessels during the mid18th century to early 19th century as it connected the regions of Osaka and Hokkaido. These ships not only facilitated the transport of commodities but also the cultural exchanges between the eastern and western regions of Japan. In particular, the Kamigata culture―inclusive of elements of Edo period urban culture ―still lives on today in modern Japan.

Similarly, the Hina Doll Streets present in Murakami (Niigata-ken) and Tsuruoka and Sakata (Yamagataken) are great examples of how the past continues to live in the now.

The Hina dolls of Murakami Located in the nor th of Niigata-ken lies Murakamishi, a once powerful jokamachi ( 城 下 町 , castle town) back in the Edo period. Its legacy can still be seen and even felt till today, especially in the castle ruins, former samurai residential areas and temple districts. Machiya, once a residential area for merchants in the past, is now transformed to a bustling shopping street, yet still retaining its nostalgic architecture.

Held from early March to early April, Machiya Hina Doll Pilgrimage is a festival that showcases exclusive Hina dolls with historic, aesthetic and cultural values in local establishments. During this period, a 130-year-old shop specialising in salt-pickled salmon called Kitsukawa would be found displaying its cherished collection of Hina dolls among its thousands of dried fish hanging in the background; a fun and interesting sight to behold!

The Murakami area is also known as the northern-most area in Japan where tea can be harvested. Despite harsh winters and heavy snowfall, local farmers have found innovative ways to grow sweet, fragrant leaves. During Hina-matsuri, be sure to drop by Kokonoen, a historic tea shop that never fails to put up a spectacular display of Hina dolls and Sankin-kotai dolls every year. (Sankin-kotai, also commonly known as “Alternate Attendance”, was a system put in place during the Edo period that required feudal lords to spend every other year in Edo.) Check out the link below for Hina Doll Festival schedule: www.wattention.com/tohoku-special

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The Hina dolls heirloom of Tsuruoka Northwest of Yamagata-ken lies Tsuruoka town, an important region during the Edo period due to the power ful Sakai family’s presence in the Shonai Domain. The former Sakai residence, now known as the Chido Museum, has been displaying Hina dolls owned by the Sakai family for more than a decade. The 18th generation descendant hopes that visitors would pay more attention to the stories behind the dolls while appreciating their aesthetic value. For the Sakai family, these dolls not only represent their history, but are also tokens of love from their parents to their children.

Look out for the Heishindo, a roof made with cedar bark and weighed down by approximately 40,000 stones, making it truly an architectural wonder. This was a former residence of the Kazama, a local wealthy merchant family of clan Sakai.

It also displays a collection of Hina dolls during the festival and has been listed as an important cultural property by the Japanese government.

Besides visiting the aforementioned places, you can also spot Hina dolls on display from most local shops during the festive season, since these dolls simply represent the unconditional love of parents for their daughters. Every family in Japan has a Hina doll story to tell, so let’s take this chance to hear all about them!

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1: Kazama family’s Heishindo

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2: During the Hina-matsuri, you can also visit the display of local shops 4

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3: Hina Lunch at Kurayashiki: LUNA in Tsuruoka 6

4: The display of Hina dolls at Heishindo 5: Sakai family’s collection of Hina dolls 6: The 18th head of the Sakai clan

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The Hina dolls of Sakata The Shonai area located in Yamagat a is made up of Sakat a and Tsuruoka City. In the past, Sakata flourished as a port for kitamaebune ships, and as a result became a melting pot for many cultures and fostered a spirit of open-mindedness. When winter melts into spring every year (around late February or early March to early April), Sakata City showcases a wide variety of Hina dolls contributed by families that come from generations of maritime traders both from the business and political world.

In 1786, a wealthy local merchant family called Honma commissioned a building for members of the shogunate visiting from Edo. The grand building was later known by many as the "Honma residence" and was eventually made open to the public. It served as a historic site displaying kitamaebune ar tefacts, Hina doll dowries and miniature lacquer tableware made using maki-e techniques (a form of Japanese lacquer art where designs are sprinkled with gold and silver powder).

Hina-matsuri confectionery is a local treat that is hard to come by in major cities like Tokyo. One such specialist is Komatsuya, which has been in the wagashi business for decades, selling exquisite Hina related sweets in different forms and shapes. The owner mentioned that the production of such confectionery came to a halt during the war and was only revived upon request from the influential Honma family. It is said that the age-old moulds used by Komatsuya were originally crafted in Kyoto and then transported to Sakata via Kitamaebune. While here, make sure you dine at the Japanese restaurant Izugiku, where you can indulge in a meal that the Honma family would have enjoyed during the Hina-matsuri!

Once the best place for Japanese fine dining, Somaro stood out during the era Sakata prospered as a port city for kitamaebune ships. Today, this quaint restaurant doubles as a Hina doll galler y of historical significance. Visitors can even enjoy exclusive dance performances by maiko ( 舞妓 , apprentice geisha) on the second floor while admiring a variety of beautiful Hina dolls. The Kasafuku culture, where little doll ornaments are strung upon an umbrella-like structure, also originated from Sakata. You can find a massive 270-metres-high Kasafuku with 999 ornaments exhibited at Sanno Club, a high-end restaurant cum tourist attraction.

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1: Honma family’s Hina dolls collection

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2: The display with Maki-e miniature set

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3: Komatsuya’ s owner Takashi Komatsu explain how to make the Hina-matsuri confectionery

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4: The age-old moulds for Hina-matsuri confectionery 5: Hina-matsuri confectionery isn’t edible

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6: Kasafuku at Sanno club 7: The Maiko of Somaro 8: O-hina-sama Zen at Izugiku

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