WAttention Tokyo Vol. 28

Tokyo Edition - Taiwan - Los Angeles - Malaysia - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong- Indonesia - Singapore - Mexico - Australia

FREE 2018 Summer Issue VOL.28

Special Feature 1

The Summer Festivals and Portable Shrines

Special Feature 2

Tokyo Bayside Story Another 3hr Trip

Akihabara / Kanda, Harajuku / Omotesando and Nightlife Go North from Tokyo

Summer Explorations and Adventures in Tohoku

暦 Koyomi June

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

水無月

Af t e r R ain 雨あがり

text & artwork / Allan West, coordination / Mariko Takahashi, photo / Keiji Okazaki

This time of year is one of rainy days here in

and almost immediately I heard a frog croak

Japan. During a long rainy season, I was wondering

his joy. I felt as if I had never heard a happier

how to best evoke this feeling, and thought of

sound. Following the voice, I discovered its

how beautifully plants are transformed by rain. I

owner. I picked him up and we stared at each

took all the different kinds of green pigment that

other for quite a good bit of time. I thought,

I had collected over the years, and made a liquid

" What could be better than to be a frog in the

green background for my painting. Then I began

rain?" I set him back down, and took out my ink

painting what I supposed would be a rainforest,

and brush, and sketched him right there. He

and found that with no more than the addition of

stood still for me, and then as if understanding

a few ferns, I had evoked just the right sense of

that I was in fact done, made a small chirp, and

damp verdure I experience walking through my

after taking a few tentative steps, jumped off.

four panel folding screen “Ameagari”

favorite Ueno park.

This is what was missing from my painting!

Yet I felt that somehow something was still

A testimony to the beauty and joys of rain, and

ALLAN WEST

missing... and decided to pick up my umbrella

that moment when all is silence right before

and take a walk through the park for further

frogs break into song. This fellow would be our

Born in 1962 in the US, Allan West settled in Tokyo and eventually graduated with a Master of Fine Arts from Tokyo University of the Arts.

You can visit his open studio in Yanaka, Tokyo.

inspiration. Heavy drops fell from the now green

surrogate as he soaks in the season's bounty.

www.allanwest.jp

boughs of the cherry trees. The rain stopped WAttention Tokyo |

1

Why “WAttention”?

Our name comes from the hope that people around the world will pay more “Attention” to “WA（和） ; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself!

VOL.28

世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention）してほしいという願い を込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Contents 01

In Harmony with the Seasons

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.

03

Tokyo Hot News

Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

04

Feature 1

10

Feature 2

The Spirit of Summer Festivals and Portable Shrines Old Meets New

Tokyo Bayside Story

Another 3hr Trip - Around Tokyo in 180 Minutes -

17

Akihabara - Kanda / Harajuku - Omotesando / Nightlife

21

Robot Restaurant

22

Short Trip from Tokyo

Editorial Team Nancy Liu / Ellen Hwang / Cuauhtemoc Velazquez Zoria Petkoska / BB Clarke / Mika Tsutsumi (WEB) Hsin-Yun Chang(WEB) Language Consultant Jude Austin Design Team Graphic Designers Kenji Ishida / Chew Yan Qiao Haruna Katahira / Ochiai Aki Leonor Photographers Kenji Sugasawa / Keiji Okazaki Hisashi Mochizuki / Noboru Hanamura / Tomoyo Nozawa

Let’s Conquer Mt. Fuji and Embrace Nature

Sales & Marketing Naoki Kiyota / Yuri Nakazawa / Doris Lo / Chihiro Tamura

Go North from Tokyo

24

Editorial Advisor Mariko Takahashi

Special thanks Michael Feather Asakusa Senwa Chokai

Summer Explorations and Adventures in Tohoku

Nishi-Asakusa Sanchome Kita Chokai

広告･記事に関するお問い合わせは 和テンション株式会社

〒150-0002 東京都渋谷区渋谷2-3-8 倉島渋谷ビル401号

Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) / 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com

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Follow WAttention online

2B Craig Road Singapore 089662 Phone : 65-6324-2127

In This Issue Tokyo becomes a city of festivals in the summertime.

Many of these celebrations trace their history back to the townspeople of the Edo period and their local culture. Edoites, known for their vigor and competitive spirit, loved the festivities of the season, and their contemporary Tokyo-dwelling counterparts are no different. One festival in particular that really gets people excited is the Sanja Festival in Asakusa. This issue will delve into the relationship between the residents of the city and festivals through the lens of the Sanja Festival while providing readers with the knowledge they will need to get the most out of the Tokyo festivities.

Tokyo Edition - Taiwan - Los Angeles - Malaysia - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong- Indonesia - Singapore - Mexico - Australia

FREE 2018 Spring issue VOL.27

Summer 2018 There is also a feature on the Tokyo Bay area, known for the Tsukiji fish market which will soon move to its new home in autumn later this year. 夏の東京は祭りの季節です。江戸時代には、町民文化のなかでたく

さんの華やかな祭りが誕生しました。きっぷがよく、負けず嫌いの江

戸っ子は大の祭好き。それは現在の東京人も変わりません。中でも 東京の祭り好きを熱狂させるのが浅草の三社祭です。今回、三社祭

を通して、東京の人々と祭りの関わり合いを紹介しています。これを

知れば、あなたも、もっと日本の祭りを深く楽しめるはずです。また、

エリア特集はこの秋、築地から市場が移転することでも話題の東京湾 岸を取り上げてみました。

-Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

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Culture Special SPECIAL FEATURE 1

SPECIAL FEATURE 2

Bathing Culture Shinjuku – A City Of Rebirth

Short Trip From Tokyo:

Mt. Fuji and Lovely Mountain resorts

編集長: 鈴木幸香

［WAttention Tokyo 定期送付のご案内］ 配布エリア外にお住いの方や、 毎号お読みになりたい方のために定期送付いたします。

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TOKYO HOT

EWS

Bringing you the latest hot news

Great Buddha: A New Pilgrimage Site Great news for those who are too weary to travel all the way to Nara to see the Great Buddha: an 18-meter tall, equally massive Buddha has made its way to Tokyo. Situated in a place called Hinode — about 1.5 hours west of central Tokyo — the statue was commissioned by a local priest years ago for the purpose of watching over mankind and attracting new worshipers.

Seibu Kawagoe Pass Makes its Debut

http://mainsite.main.jp/houkouji/index.html

Seibu Rail Pass has always been loved by visitors to Japan as a convenient way to explore Kawagoe, the little Edo of Saitama Prefecture. The latest version of this pass, which goes by the name Seibu Kawagoe Pass, has added Ikebukuro as a new station of departure for round-trip travel to Kawagoe (on top of Seibu Shinjuku and Takadanobaba Station). Designed like a traditional lucky charm, the pass also makes a great souvenir to take home. https://www.seiburailway.jp/railways/tourist/english/ticket/deals_ kawagoe.html

Digital Art Museum to Provide Cutting-edge Experience Prepare to be enveloped by thousands of glass lamps and bathed in an illusionary waterfall when you step into the gallery of the MORI Building Digital Art Museum. Set to open this summer, the 10,000 square meter facility is equipped with 520 computers and 470 projectors that will generate 40 surprisingly creative digital images with interactive displays. Such an out-of-this-world experience is not to be missed! https://borderless.teamlab.art/

Glamping: the Hottest Thing Trending

Get your hands on passenger tickets, hotel booking and tickets to traditional Japanese art and anime performances at this newly built tourist center. No need to worry about miscommunication as there is English-speaking staff to serve you 365 days a year. If you’re looking to travel light, you can have your luggage shipped to any destination in the Kanto area.

A peep into a tent at Circus Outdoor TOKYO will defy the typical camping stereotype with its cozy queen size bed covered in white sheets, a sofa with fluffy pillows, luxurious wooden furniture and chic furnishings. One night’s stay also comes with a multi-course meal prepared by exquisite chefs and a picturesque view of Lake Okutama. Book your tent fast as getaway retreats like this are in great demand!

http://www.haneda-tokyo-access.com/en/airport/service.html

http://circusoutdoor.com

Traveling Made Easier with Tourist Information in Shinagawa Station

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Culture Special

The Spirit of Hot nights, traditional costumes, portable shrines and the rhythmical beating of drums immediately spell out matsuri, summer festivals, to any Japanese per son. One of the three biggest in Tokyo and one of the earliest, always in the third weekend of May, is the Sanja matsuri in Asakusa. For three days in a row, it celebrates three people with three main mikoshi, or portable shrines, in Sanja shrine. The locals also have their own holy mikoshis that they carr y around the streets, each neighborhood association, or chokai, having one.

We took part in the preparations and ac ti v itie s of the " Nishia s a S ank it a (Nishiasakusa Sanchome Kita Chokai)", a neighborhood association that has the biggest mikoshi among the locals. Mere coincidence, but even the name of this association features the number three or 'san' in Japanese. We also talked to Michael Feather, a photographer who documented the Sanja matsuri activities of another neghborhood association, Asakusa Senwa Chokai, for three years.

Summer Michael Feather: Photographer A graduate of Leeds College of Photography Design and Print. Clients var ying from Lucite International and Muji to some of the best award winning agencies in the UK and Japan. Shot the co v e r p i c t ure f o r Pe te r Ma y l e ’s book, “A Year in Provence”. 2008: opened an of f ice in Tok yo. 2012: r e c e i v e d To k y o A D C A w a r d for MUJI Campground as a photographer. 2013: TOK YO APA Award (Advertsing Photographers Award) for MUJI Campground. http://www.msfeather.com/ Special thanks to Asakusa Senwa Chokai and Nishi-asakusa Sanchome Kita Chokai

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Festivals

and Portable Shrines ©Michael Feather

interv iew : Michael Feather Capturing Precious Moments from Sanja Matsuri Michael Feather cannot talk about the Sanja matsuri without smiling. He captured timeless photos, but also forged strong bonds with the people from the Senwa (Asakusa Senwa Chokai) neighborhood association who are participating in the Sanja festival. “There are two types of photographers,” he says to me on Skype, “and I am the type that likes to get to know his subjects”.

A professional photographer working in Tokyo, he also worked on his passion photo projects and that is how he met a person from the Senwa association who invited him to take photos at the Sanja matsuri. He knew right away that it was a great opportunity to experience this festival from the inside and took them up on the offer. ©Michael Feather WAttention Tokyo |

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From outsider to insider – 3 years with Senwa Chokai Michael remembers the first time he was introduced to the Senwa association members in 2012 – everybody was perfectly polite, but everybody had tasks and preparations to do. With time, from spending his breaks alone in a cafe, he ended up being invited in all of their homes and becoming close friends.

He spent his first Sanja matsuri photographing the hustle and bustle flooding the Asakusa alleys, sometimes even having to be there at 4 am so as not to miss a thing! Originally supposed to be a one-time thing, he eventually spent three years in a row documenting the Sanja matsuri.

The second year he came back to take por traits of the people in the association. Inspired by August Sander, who photographed people in a uniform in a certain work role, and having become closer to the Senwa chokai people, he decided to do the portraits while the festival was ongoing. “Anything else would have been less real,” he says and goes on to explain how he managed to briefly draw in his subjects during their busiest time. He built a makeshift studio in one of the garages they use for storage. The people of the Senwa were moved by his dedication to the point of chasing potential portrait subjects down the block so that Michael can photograph them!

The third year, 2014, he came back to capture Sanja matsuri yet again, but this time its sounds. He had an upcoming exhibition of the Sanja matsuri photos in Paris and he wanted to accompany that with the sounds of the festivities, bringing viewers closer to experiencing Sanja matsuri.

Understanding the spirit of summer festivals

©Michael Feather

Go and enjoy Sanja matsuri!

Michael advises visitors to be respectful, but also enjoy the festival. It is a supposed to be a fun event, so follow the locals and do what they do! He says learning a bit of Japanese can take you a long way and a smile does wonders. Wearing a yukata is recommended as it will put you in a matsuri mood.

And if you want to take photos, go for it and remember that any camera is a good camera to capture memories.

Michael had been to other summer festivals before, but Sanja matsuri was different. Being warmly accepted by the local community, he decided to wear full matsuri garb, from the hanten coat to the jikatabi socks that he smilingly admits dilapidated fast from the wear and tear. During the matsuri, one of his dearest memories is being handed a special purple hanten, the one worn by the ushers, so that it would protect him among the crowds in Sanja shrine. He also received another hanten, a rare official one that he treasures to this day.

He also joined shoulders with the others to carry the mikoshi portable shrine of Senwa. While certainly heavy, everyone helps and shares the load, strengthening the sense of community.

Michael was amazed to meet at leas t three generations living constantly in the Asakusa area and taking part in Sanja matsuri. He is more used to people moving from place to place and cities in a constant flux. However, he understood that matsuri festivals have their roots firmly in the past, while still accepting modernity.

©Michael Feather 4

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Asakusa Senwa Chokai ©Michael Feather

The roots and history of summer festivals 'Tis the Season for Matsuri If you know Japan, you know it breathes with the rhythm of the seasons. The main four seasons were actually 24 seasons in the past and some people divide that further into 72 microseasons of nature. The days get warmer and warmer, but it's not truly summer until you hear the drums of the matsuri.

Summer festivals mean wearing a yukata, light traditional dress similar to kimono, eating street food, dancing and mikoshi processions among many other things. They are among the kigo or seasonal keywords in haiku with the task to immediately paint an image of summer in the reader's mind.

夕立に次の祭りの通りけり yûdachi ni tsugi no matsuri no tôri keri in a cloudburst another festival shrine passes by -Kobayashi Issa (1763 - 1827) The matsuri is a fun and enjoyable celebration centered around the carrying of portable shrines, or mikoshi, which is a Shinto religious practice. It is believed that on that occasion the God's soul is taken from the local shrine and carried around the area in the mikoshi, which is why it always closely resembles the shrine itself. It is believed that the God blesses the streets while also being amused by the ride in the mikoshi.

There are matsuri events throughout the year; traditionally in spring people prayed for a good harvest, in autumn they gave thanks for a bountiful harvest and so on. There are many occasions to appease the Gods, however, by far, the biggest number of festivals are summer festivals. They are also the most fun, perhaps because summer has always been a time of good weather and plenty of food. A matsuri is a duality – a solemn religious occasion and at the same time, a joyful rowdy celebration. Through the years, the religious element of matsuri became less pronounced and today there are even secular summer festivals that retain the same atmosphere, just without the mikoshi. The one thing in common of all these festivities is enjoying summer and engaging with your local community. As people living in urban areas today socialize less and less, matsuri in Tokyo is one of the rare opportunities to interact with the locals.

Hozuki Ichi Utagawa Hiroshige II 1866 "Morning Glories at Iriya in the Eastern Capital"

Tokyo natsu-matsuri calendar Kanda festival, Sanja festival, Fukagawa festival and Sanno Festival are the biggest and most popular summer festivals in Tok yo since the Edo period. Actually, Kanda and Sanno festivals were the only ones patronized by the Edo Bakufu in the Edo period. Kanda festival and Sanja festival open the matsuri season in mid-May and Sanno festival follows them in the middle of June. All of them have a spectacular procession of mikoshi and people dressed in traditional clothes, historical costumes, dancers and so on.

Nex t , at the end of June and beginning of July come the Ofujisan festivals and as the name suggests, they are worshipping Mount Fuji. These festivals in Tokyo can be found in Asakusa in Sengen-jinja and Kita-ku Jujo in Fuji-jinja and more. Although they are not physically close to Mount Fuji, Edo people have always admired the sacred mountain from afar and built shrines to pray to its spirit.

The first half of July is the time for two summer festivals ending with 'ichi' which comes from the Japanese word “ichiba” and means bazaar. Hozuki-ichi and Asagao-ichi are held in Senso-ji and Shingen-ji respectively. They are both dedicated to flowers; hozuki is translated sometimes as “ground cherry” or “Chinese lantern” and asagao is morning glory. Fun fact: a prayer in Senso-ji during Hozuki-ichi is believed to be worth the same as 46.000 prayers!

Another symbol of summer in Japan are the various hanabi or firework festivals. In Tokyo, the most spectacular Sumidagawa Hanabi Festival takes place on the last Saturday of July and it has been held since the 18th century. It is a marvellous display of fireworks sharing the sky with the Tokyo Skytree while the visitors lay down mats on the streets and have nighttime picnics.

One of the later summer festivals is the Fukagawa matsuri in Tomioka Hachimangu shrine taking place in the middle of August. Although it is celebrated every year, every third year the celebrations are more spectacular than usual. The last such festivity was in 2017 and the next one will be in 2020!

EVENTS MAY 7 - 17 / Sanja Matsuri

JUNE 7-17 / Sanno Matsuri

JUNE 26, 27, 30- JULY 1 / Ofujisan JULY 6 – 8 / Asagao-ichi

JULY 9 – 10 / Hozuki-ichi

JULY last Sat. / Sumidagawa Hanabi Festival AUGUST 11-15 / Fukagawa Hachiman Matsuri A lantern at Hozuki ichi with a writing on it that reads "46 thousand days"

Upper-right: A stand of a summer event.

Bottom-right: Sumidagawa Fireworks festival.

WAttention Tokyo |

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Leader (left) and vice leader (right) of the Chokai’s youth group working behind the scenes.

Backstage

Preparing for the next day at Mikisho, a station where the sacred sake is dedicated to god. This can actually be referred to as the backstage of the matsuri.

Preparation

at

Sanja Matsuri

Assembly and decoration of Mikoshi

Assembling and decorating the mikoshi for children the same way as the one for adults.

Tying the wooden bars of mikoshi tightly with rope.

Nishi-Asakusa Sanchome Kita Chokai

Halfway through the assemblage.

Kagura, a group of musicians moving with the mikoshi.

Kagura is also the word for the music itself at matsuri.

Youth group handing out food and drinks to the mikoshi carriers.

Dashi, a float for children.

Just after mikoshi togyo, carrying the portable shrine.

On the day

Friday morning preparations for the Sanja festival I felt privileged from the start, while glimpsing the careful uncover ing and as semblage of t he por t able shr ine of Nishiasakusa Sanchome Neighborhood Association. Stopping in their tracks in the scorching May sun, locals were taking photos of the rare moment I was invited to witness. “It's maybe the biggest mikoshi in Sanja matsuri,” one of the Nishiasa Sankita members proudly says to me. This mikoshi with car ved wooden dragons and topped with a golden phoenix has been handmade by one of the rare mikoshi artisans in Tokyo. The people assembling it tell me that later a talisman will be fetched from Sanja shrine that will put part of God's soul inside the mikoshi. Handymen that do this assemblage carefully tighten the ropes under the gaze of the kashira, a person historically in charge of city safety. Abe-san, the kashira for Nishiasa Sankita has been doing this forever.

Everyone respects him and the other community elders.

In the nearby garage traditional music and lanterns heat up the matsuri atmosphere. The locals come to help out or donate to the association. The event president, Kazuya Nakajou, says that this is his favourite thing – ever yone working together. “It's not hard because everyone helps me,” he is humble when I ask him how hard it is to organize an event like this. He explains that one of the purposes of the portable shrines being carried through the streets is showing people God is protecting them.

Carrying the Nishiasa Sankita mikoshi The excitement the nex t day is almost palpable. The Nishiasa Sankita locals mostly wear white hanten coats with black letters and I am given one too. Grandparents, children, pets – we are all united under one symbol. The drummers playing the matsuri music known as kagura solemnly lead the way. The gold of the mikoshi is ablaze in the golden May af ternoon. People who carr y the mikoshi have the most unusual maps of emotions on their faces – both strain and joy.

The people around them encourage them and occasionally

switch place with them to share the load. It is then when I am pulled in, as many others are, to carry the mikoshi. I am wearing the hanten and I decide to accept. Shouting “Oisa, oisa!” as everyone else is, seems to magically help!

In the breaks between the mikoshi carrying everyone seems to be having a great time. They share drinks and meals and exchange witty banter. The Saturday Sanja matsuri activities of Nishiasa Sankita are concluded by one last carrying of the mikoshi and this one is ladies only. Of course, I was pulled in again to carry it!

It seems Sanja matsuri is all about the number 'three'.

Michael Feather ended up documenting the festival for three consecutive years and I ended up carrying the mikoshi three times in the same day. Neither of us had that planned, but Sanja matsuri has a way of lifting up your spirits and giving you a push into new experiences.

Mingling with the Locals and Properly Matsuri-ing Sitting down to share food and drinks with the locals, I finally felt what matsuri festivals mean to Tokyoites today being together, here and now as it has always been . Smiling and sharing moments with people from all ages and in our case, people from all corners of the world. The spirit of summer festivals and portable shrines is to show everyone that they are one communit y. I felt that the spirit of the matsuri nowadays is showing me too that I can belong in a place where families live for generations but they open their arms and hearts to anyone else in a matsuri-mood.

Ma ts

u r i Cos t u m

e

7

1 2 3 4 5

6

1: Hachimaki 2: Koikuchi Shirt (or if it is more baggy, it is called Dabo Shirt) 3: Obi 4: Donburi (or Haragake) 5: Matahiki (or Patchi) 6: Jikatabi The phoenix which will be put on the top of the mikoshi.

Kashira, an occupation title for a head person of Tobis who assemble and decorate mikoshi ever since the Edo period, when they were also firemen. The kashira plays an important role in the chokai.

7: Hanten (or Happi)

WAttention Tokyo |

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Old Meets New

Odaiba – The Japanese Islands That Matthew Perry Helped Build

In

1852, America’s 13th president, Millard Fillmore, ordered Commodore Matthew C. Perry to sail to Japan and open its ports for trade. At the time, Japan was well over 200 years into its sakoku policy of isolation, which, among other things, barred Westerness from trading in Japan except for one port in modern-day Nagasaki. Perry was tasked with changing that, by force if necessar y. To that end, he brought four warships to Edo Bay in 1853, rushing straight towards Japan’s capital with his cannons fully loaded, an act that quickly got the government’s attention.

Not

being in any position to refuse, Japan allowed Perry to land in what is today Yokosuka, where he presented the government representatives with letters from the American president “asking” to open trade relations between the U.S. and Japan. Perry then said that he would return in one year, giving the government time to consider his offer. But this time, Japan thought, they would be ready for him.

The

s ame year t hat Per r y ar r i ved in Edo B ay, one E gawa t aro Z aemon , als o k now n as Hide t a t su E gawa , proposed defending Japan with the creation of batteries in the inland sea off the coast of Shinagawa. These artificial islands would be outfitted with cannons that would hopefully prove to be a match for America’s firepower. The name for the cannon fortresses at the time was “daiba,” which soon also came to describe the islands themselves. Construction of the daiba began as soon as Commodore Perry left Japan for Hong Kong.

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Utagawa Hiroshige "Autumn scene at Takanawa" 1853

It

was an incredibly ambitious engineering project. To create the artificial islands, large amounts of earth were transported from three sites to the coast of Shinagawa, which were then supplemented with soil drudged from the Sumida River. Next, nearly 5,000 trees were cut down in modern-day Chiba and carried by boat to Edo. Finally, about 1,000 stonemasons were hired to produce the stones necessary for construction of the daiba, to which people soon started adding the honorific “o” prefix, calling it “Odaiba.”

The

original plan called for the construction of 11 batteries in Edo Bay, but due to financial difficulties only five ended up being completed. Construction on two more began but was halted, with plans for the rest being canceled indefinitely.

Would it have been enough to defeat Commodore Perry and his warships? Doubtful, but Japan never had to find that out the hard way, because before the construction of the turret fortresses finished, the government decided not to risk it and ended its policy of isolationism. Thanks to an accord signed between the United States and the ruling Tokugawa shogunate, the ports of Shimoda and Hakodate were opened to American ships, finally bringing sakoku to an end.

As

for Odaiba, the islands never got to be used for their intended purpose, which probably came as somewhat of a relief to the 5,000 soldiers chosen to man them. For the next 100 years or so, the area off Shinagawa continued to serve as a major port for the transportation of goods around Japan and produce seaweed, which it is known for even today.

Between 1854 and 1965, all but two of the artificial islands were removed to free up shipping lanes, with the surviving ones becoming repurposed. Among other things, they have served as shipyards and housed war orphans following WWII.

For

decades, though, the islands and the surrounding waterfront area were mostly forgotten. Then during the mid1990s ever y thing changed. In order to help with Tokyo’s expanding population and ease traffic congestion, a plan was put in place to redevelop the capital’s unutilized areas into new, bustling cit y centers. With the construction of the famous Rainbow Bridge in 1993, which connected the Shibaura Pier and the Odaiba waterfront, all eyes fell upon the land surrounding the old turret fortresses.

In

1995, a plan was enacted to turn the Odaiba area into the city of the future housing over 100,000 people, luxury hotels, and businesses from all over the world. More than 1 trillion yen has been put into the project, which is why it’s so unfortunate that it didn’t really work out. But near the end of the 20th century, Odaiba started to find its own new identity.

Instead of becoming the new worldwide center for business like Shinjuku, the area attracted shopping malls, convention centers, and even motorsports events.

Kurofune

USS Mississippi

It

also became known as one of only t wo places that have direct access to Tokyo Bay waters, unobstructed by commercial or industrial developments. (The other one is Minato Mirai 21 in Yokohama.)

Today

, Odaiba’s attractions include, for example, the now iconic Daikanransha Ferris wheel. Standing at 115 meters (377 feet) tall, it was the tallest Ferris wheel in the world upon its completion in 1999, and now stands as one of the many unofficial symbols of Odaiba, as does the Miraikan, a futuristic museum dedicated to emerging sciences and innovation. But Odaiba hasn’t forgotten about its roots. For example, Daibakoen is a popular park built on the third daiba battery where you can relax, camp out, and even admire the remains of the old fortifications.

Otherwise

, Odaiba just so happens to also house a scale, 40-foot-tall replica of the Statue of Liberty. Originally erected as a tribute to the relations between Japan and France, the Odaiba version of the monument, now pindelibly linked to America, overlooks Tokyo Bay and Rainbow Bridge, almost as if to make sure no one forgets the roundabout way in which the United States helped bring the whole area to life.

By Cezary Jan Strusiewicz WAttention Tokyo |

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Old Meets New

Kita-Shinagawa and Tennozu Isle – At the Intersection of Past and Present A historic checkpoint station in a modern, stunning coastal setting

Back

in the Edo period (1603-1868), Kita-Shinagawa thrived as a shukuba, or

checkpoint station, on the Tokaido, one of the five ancient roads that connected Tokyo with Kyoto. Weary travelers would stop and take a rest at “Shinagawa-shuku” before continuing their trip. Despite the drastic change in street scenery over the years from traditional lodgings to modern stores, its historic charm remains elegantly intact.

Thanks to the hard work of locals, the heritage of this area is well-preserved.

Shinagawa Station

A

few blocks away from Kita-Shinagawa is Tennozu Isle, an artificial island with a whole new story to tell. Built in Tokyo Bay, it has a resort-like atmosphere that allows you to make the most out of your break. Scenic canal walk, off-beat boutique shops and a gallery converted from a warehouse are among the must-visit attractions. To discover the hidden charms of Tokyo and embrace the old and new, just take a slow stroll from Kita-Shinagawa to Tennozu Isle. The change in scenery along the way will have leave you refreshed and in good spirits!

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Located on the east side of the old “Shinagawashuku,” Shinagawaura-no-Funadamari was an anchorage for boats that used to bring home rich bounties of fish for the Tokugawa family. It was also famous for seaweed production. Today, Shinagawaura-no-Funadamari serves as a safe haven for small fishing boats and yakatabune houseboats. The view from the Kita-Shinagawa Bridge, which features in both high-rise skyscrapers and the nostalgic port, is a great example of how the Shinagawa legacy continues to live on.

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Address: 1-1-17 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo

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Senbei-tokoro Akioka This Japanese rice cracker specialty shop in the Tokaido area boasts a history of over 120 years.

Although locally sourced seaweed is no longer used in the making of their star item “Shinagawamaki,” the snack is still a most beloved local treat. The crunchy rice crackers covered in quality seaweed are a must try for first-timers!

Hours: 10am-7:30pm (weekdays), 10am-6pm (weekends & Holidays) Address: 2-2-8 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo

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Shinagawa Shrine Shinagawa Shrine was founded long before the opening of the Tokaido in the Edo period. It's decorated with the emblem of the Tokugawa clan as it's said that Ieyasu Tokugawa visited here to pray for victory before the famous Battle of Sekigahara took place. While you're there, why not climb Fujizaka, a man-made mound representative of Mt Fuji, and enjoy the historic ambiance?

Address: 3-7-15 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo

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Onkashitsukasa Kimuraya The springing up of guest houses in the Shinagawa in recent years has contributed to a sharp rise in foreign visitors in the Tokaido. One of the most beloved attractions is Kimuraya, a Japanese confectionery whose history can be traced back to 120 years ago. Wrapped in non-woven cloth, “Shinagawa-mochi” is designed in the image of a traditional travel bag, bringing to mind the area’s historical significance.

Hours: 8:30am-6:30pm Closed on Wednesdays

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Address: 2-9-23 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo

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The history of the Tokaido is not only about the past, but also the present. This lovely s weet s shop has named their roll cake “shukuba” to pay homage to the legac y of Shinagawa. Sukuba roll cakes come in a wide array of flavors, including classic matcha , t radi t ional vanilla , chocolate, strawberry and black tea for a total of five flavors. Sweets made with locally produced vegetables can also be found here.

Hours: 9:30am-8pm Closed on Tuesdays

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Hours: 11am - 6pm (Tuesdays to Thursdays, Saturdays) 11am - 8pm Fridays, Closed on Mondays, Sundays and National Holidays Address: 1-33-10 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo Rinkai Line

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TERRADA ART COMPLEX Without a doubt, the existence of TERRADA ART COMPLEX has added an artistic flare to Tennoz Isle. Although this warehouse-turned-art gallery-complex looks reserved from the outside, it is packed with plenty of surprises, such as a warehouse elevator and unique artwork you won't find anywhere else. *The exhibitions are changed periodically.

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Address: 2-30-27 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo

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7 Third Waterfront Square (Boardwalk) Dubbed a quick getaway for Tok yoites, Tennoz Isle commands an unbelievably stunning view of the bayside and canal front. Take a break at the Third Waterfront Square and as you gaze into the distance, you'll see canals built in perfect harmony with modern high-rise buildings. Time seems to move slower here compared to the fast-paced lifestyle of central Tokyo.

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ARCHI-DEPOT Museum Japan’s one and only museum dedicated to architectural models is located in Tennoz Isle. This museum has two exhibition spaces with architectural models by well-known architects. Discover the inner workings of architects through miniature size models of real life structures. The current exhibitions are open until July 16. (The current exhibitions are as follows: The Five groups 30s architects selected by ARCHI-DEPOT Museum- Architectual strata created by generations and society Le Corbusier/Chandigarh - Creation and Context -ARCHI-DEPOT Museum Holds its First Special Exhibition after Renovation) Hours: 11am - 7pm Closed on Mondays (Opens on a Monday when it is a National Holiday but closes the next day) Admission: 1,000 JPY for those under 18, 2,000 JPY for university school students and 3,000 JPY for adults Address: 2-6-10 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo

T.Y.HARBOR, a landmark overlooking the Tennoz Canal, is a brewery restaurant built in a renovated warehouse. Try their craft beer and delicious food while enjoying a view of the canal. This is the place to enjoy your dining experience to the fullest.

Hours: 11:30am-2pm (weekday lunch), 11:30am-3pm (weekend and holiday lunch), 5:30pm-10pm (dinner) Address: 2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo

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Old Meets New

Toyosu Odaiba – The Past, Present and Future of Tokyo Bay

Tokyo

is a vibrant city with all the charms of a bayside suburb. When

visiting the city, Toyosu and Odaiba are two attractions that you can't afford to miss. Toyosu is a notable area which will soon replace Tsukiji as the largest fish market in Tokyo, and Odaiba is a commercial location characterized by a gigantic Gundam statue.

However

, Toyosu - an area created on reclaimed land - did not come about until the Taisho period (1912-1926). It later developed into an important hub for Tokyo’s manufacturing businesses in the Showa period (1926-1989).

With the opening of a subway line and Japan’s first 7-Eleven convenience store in 1974, Toyosu transformed into a new and functional residential district.

With

the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics just around the corner, the

importance of Toyosu and Odaiba is sure to grow. Follow our footsteps as we embark on a journey to discover the fun of Tokyo Bay!

Transportation The trendiest way to move around —Urban Launch Tired of getting around by subways? Taking the luxury liner Urban Launch is a decision you won’t regret.

Urban Launch operates on a daily basis, sailing between Toyosu, Odaiba and Shibaura. Time to cruise away and explore the beauty of Tokyo Bay! Urban Launch http://www.urbanlaunch.net/boarding/

Experience A City Run By Kids!—KidZania Tokyo At this facility, children work in their favorite jobs and have fun learning how companies operate. What’s more, both children and adults can interact with Japanese staff and learn about authentic Japanese work culture.

KidZania Tokyo http://www.kidzania.jp/tokyo/en/

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Entertainment

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Japan's largest indoor theme park—TOKYO-JOYPOLIS TOKYO-JOYPOLIS by CA Sega Joypolis boasts over 20 exciting, fun and virtual entertainment attractions that will leave you spellbound. Experience the adrenaline rush in 3D car drifting and turn yourself into a Transformer! This state-of-the-ar t attraction is a gamer’s paradise!

TOKYO-JOYPOLIS

http://tokyo-joypolis.com/language/english/

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1 © 2010 Paramount Pictures Corporation. Manufactured under license from TOMY Company,Ltd.

® and/or TM & © 2015 TOMY.All Rights Reserved.TM & ® denote Japan Trademarks. For distribute in Japan only. ※「トランスフォーマー」「TRANSFORMERS」は株式会社タカラトミーの登録商標です。

2 © しげの秀一 / 講談社 ©SEGA

All manufactures,cars,names,brands and associated imagery featured in this game are trademarks and/or copyrighted materials of their respective owners,All rights reserved.

3 ©alterface

Sports Jogging along the waterfront —Tokyo waterfront City Running Courses You might have heard that people jog around the Imperial Palace in Japan, but running along the Port of Tokyo is a pleasure that not many people are aware of. There are three running courses to choose from, each of them going through different attractions such as Odaiba, Tokyo Rinkai Disaster Prevention Park and Symbol Promenade. The courses are well-maintained and very scenic.

Tokyo Waterfront city running courses http://www.kouwan.metro.tokyo.jp/en/sightseeing/running.html

Shibaura Area Gourmet The only sake brewery at the heart of Tokyo —Tokyo Port Brewery The predecessor of this brewery is Wakamatsuya, an old brewery where samurai used to gather to discuss national affairs in the late Edo period.

However, a change in wine legislation in the Meiji period caused the hundred-year-old brewery to close its doors. The brewery was revived by the owner’s descendants in 2016, hoping to pass on the legac y of sake brewing. Imagine how surprised the samurai would have been if they'd known that this place would grow to be a favorite attraction for foreigners after so many years.

Tokyo Port Brewery http://tokyoportbrewery.wkmty.com/ (Japanese) WAttention Tokyo |

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Tokyo Trick Art Museum – Photographic fun with ninjas, time travel and giant monsters, all under one roof!

Trick

art uses visual illusions, making the viewer feel like they are part of the artwork itself or tricking the mind and changing one’s perspective on the piece. Trick art actually originated in Japan, so a visit here is like stepping into a Mecca of illusion! Riding on the back of a tiger or flying through the sky with ninjas are all possible at Tokyo Trick Art Museum!

Located

on the 4th floor of DECKS Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall at Odaiba, the museum is separated into different areas by theme, such as the Edo period, ninja and Japanese ghosts; famous artwork; and brain training. The Edo area offers – as you might have guessed – illusions from the Edo period such as scenes of street lift or perching outside a traditional cafe. For the more active visitor, you can also take a picture of yourself somersaulting over a ninja's head, or hanging Spiderman-style from the ceiling. If you're worried, don't be; you don't do any of those things for real, but at the Tokyo Trick Art Museum, you can make it look like you did! Or how about paying a visit to the monster area for a close encounter with a gigantic shark or maybe a vampire lying in wait to trap you under a giant wine glass? Pose correctly and amaze your friends and family back home or on social media with photos that you certainly won't find anywhere else!

For those of you not used to taking snapshots, the museum offers bilingual instructions on how to pose dramatically and the best angle to take the photo from. You can also download the “TRICKAR” app on your smartphone and turn the pictures you take into movies — a whole new way to experience art.

While it's a museum, it's also a far cr y from the average drab and dower museum experience, making it a must for anyone visiting Odaiba!

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Tokyo Bay Noryosen – A toast to Tokyo Bay’s magnificent night view are all sorts of activities to make a scorching day more bearable in Japan,

one of which is the Tokyo Bay Noryosen. In Japanese, noryo means "enjoying a cool evening", and sen is a word for boat. Every summer, noryosen sail through Tokyo Bay, offering locals and visitors alike a rare chance to enjoy the evening breeze while admiring the amazing skyline of this metropolis!

Noryosen

cruises have been going on for years. This year, cruises will run from June 29 to September 24. After departing from Takeshiba Pier, the boat gently sails into Tokyo Bay, which is illuminated by lights from downtown buildings including the iconic red-orange Tokyo Tower. Just sit back, enjoy the cool breeze, take in the gorgeous skyline or have a nice chat with friends on board. Don’t forget to take a picture or two of the grand Rainbow Bridge and the colorful Ferris wheel in Odaiba.

As

the saying goes, when in Rome, do as the Romans do and Tokyo Bay Noryosen is the best way to enjoy summer in Tokyo. To make your night even more special – and affordable – wear a yukata and enjoy a 1,000 JPY discount on your ticket (see below).

Haven't decided on how to spend the night in Tokyo? Make your holiday unforgettable and unique with Tokyo Bay Noryosen!

2018 Tokyo Bay Noryosen From June 29 to September 24 (reservation required) Route: the cruise leaves from Takeshiba Pier at 7:15pm, goes around Tokyo Bay and returns to Takeshiba Pier at 9pm Price: 550 JPY for elementary school students, 1,050 JPY for junior high and high school students and 2,600 JPY for adults (Note) Enjoy a 1,000 JPY discount by wearing a yukata—*this discount does not apply on weekends and holidays Website: http://www.nouryousen.jp/ (Japanese) Win a Pair of Tickets! Visit WAttention website for more information https://wattention.com/tokyo-bay-noryosen/ 16

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Hours: 11am - 9pm (last admission at 8:30 pm) Admission: 600 JPY for children between 4 and 14, 1,000 JPY for adults Access: 2 minute walk from Odaiba-kaihinkoen Station on the Yurikamome Line Address: 4F DECKS Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall, 1-6-1 Odaiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www.trickart.info/

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AKIHA BARA KANDA

AKIHABARA / KANDA , HARAJUKU / OMOTESANDO

Got some time left before your flight? Want to get your fill of Tokyo before you jet off? Here’s a three-hour plan sure to leave you with a lasting impression of Tokyo on the way to the airport!

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Scan QR code for more information about the featured places in Akihabara & Kanda

it has transformed into the Akihabara Shin-Ochanomizu Station

of today.

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Akihabara Electric Town

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Kanda Myojin Shrine

This area — practically sacred ground for otakus — is located right outside of the station, surrounded by quirky, colorful billboards and stores selling pop culture goods. Though it would be easy enough to spend the day shopping in the labyrinth that is Electric Town, just a short 10-minute walk away heading toward Kanda Myojinshita intersection, the mood completely switches gears to one of a more traditional, nostalgic Japanese atmosphere.

A neighborhood that flourished thanks to its proximity to Kanda Myojin Shrine, this area is home to traditional restaurants and confectionery stores that boast long histories. There are also quite a number of hidden shops nestled away in alleys for you to explore. As you make your way further into the area, be prepared to encounter a stairway dubbed Otokozaka, a name combining the words “man” and “slope” in Japanese, leading to the Kanda Myojin Shrine.

The history of Kanda Myojin Shrine can be traced back 1,300 years. Over that time, people of all ages, ranks, and castes have paid their respects at this shrine, including members of the Edo shogunate themselves.

Today, it’s known as a power spot — somewhere to revitalize and reinvigorate the soul — and is quite popular with otaku due to the shrine having been featured in a popular anime series.

湯島聖堂

東京復活大聖堂 「ニコライ堂」

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Yushima-seido Temple

Holy Resurrection Cathedral

The old Manseibashi Station

This extraordinary temple, located close to the Kanda Myojin Shrine, is surrounded by a forest of trees and roofed mud walls, its beauty once captured the hearts of many renowned ukiyo-e artists like Katsushika Hokusai and Utagawa Hiroshige. Built in the Chinese style out of respect for the doctrine of Confucianism, the temple formerly served as a school where young scholars cultivated their minds back during the Edo period.

The main cathedral of the Japanese Orthodox Church, hidden among the surrounding tall buildings, is visually distinct with its large green domes. This nationally designated important cultural property is a symbol of Russo-Japanese relations that has stood since the Meiji period. Stop by and capture a great shot of Nikolai Cathedral and a view out over Akihabara from Sola City in Ochanomizu.

Closed in 1943, this once bustling train station along the Chuo Line — built back in the Meiji period (1868-1912) — was famous for both its redbrick construction and proximity to the Manseibashi Bridge. Now a shopping complex under the bridge, this redeveloped historical spot has been given new life in the bustling commercial district of Akihabara.

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Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

OMOTESANDO From Omotesando

岡本太郎記念館

Tokyo is a city that not only combines tradition and modernity but also boasts a multi-cultural heritage. For those looking to get a taste of “kawaii” culture, look no further than the home of kawaii: Harajuku. Once you’ve

Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum Taro Okamoto was a prolific avant-garde artist, his most well-known work being the “Tower of the Sun,” a statue unveiled at the Japan World Exposition held in Osaka in 1970. This museum that once served as both his home and studio for nearly half a century now displays a collection of his extraordinary sculptures, paintings, and more. Come and take a peek into the life and work of this exceptional auteur.

gotten your fill of all things cute, ふくい南青山291

take a quick stroll a few blocks

FUKUI MINAMIAOYAMA 291

down to Omotesando where

If you’re looking for delicious local Japanese food and souvenirs, don’t forget to check out Fukui Minami Aoyama 291. A shop aimed at promoting products from Fukui Prefecture to patrons in Tokyo, here you can get your hands on locally-brewed Japanese sake, food products and handicrafts. As soon as you enter the shop, you’ll feel like you were instantly transported to Fukui in western Japan!

you’ll find flagship stores of international brands lining the streets, making for quite the upscale atmosphere. The narrow streets along Omotesando are also brimming with fashion boutiques, art galleries, local food joints, and shops sporting traditional crafts.

— Harajuku and Omotesando are definitely worth a visit!

キャットストリート

Cat Street In 1964, when Tokyo held its first Olympic Games, the local government built a leisure walking path over a space which has Shibuya River running under it and named it Shibuya River Promenade, but to most locals it’s known as “Cat Street”. The so-called tabby thorough fare is lined with shops selling clothes catering to all sorts of different tastes in fashion along with other stores selling knick-knacks and foodstuffs. Come take a pleasant stroll down Cat Street and experience what Shibuya has to offer.

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シティショップ

CITY SHOP City Shop is a restaurant offering light meals with simple yet stylish décor, tucked behind a row of businesses frequented by celebrities in the fashion industry. On the first floor, you’ll find a health-conscious eatery offering 15 different kinds of pre-prepared salads, but you can also customize your order to suit your own dietary concerns. Don’t forget to browse the second floor while you’re there, showcasing a selection of clothing and other fashion items. 鶴亀樓 原宿

Tsurukamerou Harajuku A restaurant aiming to convey the traditional aesthetics of Japan of to its customers, Tsurukamerou Harajuku offers a wide range of authentic Japanese cuisine as well as provides an unparalleled dining experience in a sophisticated atmosphere. We recommend trying their own “Bonsai Parfait,” a delicious take on the French frozen treat featuring matcha ice cream topped with a bean jam cake and chilled azuki sweet beans, a dessert as beautiful as it is delicious.

太田記念美術館

OTA MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF ART

Katsushika Hokusai "Under the Wave off Kanagawa, Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji"

Situated in the hustle and bustle of Harajuku, this museum is dedicated to ukiyo-e, traditional Japanese woodblock prints that flourished 400 years ago during the Edo period. A visit here will give you a sense of what the city once looked like by seeing the colorful prints of a Japan lost to time, though you may be surprised at the amount of traditional elements the Japan of today still retains after seeing their collection. The museum boasts 14,000 ukiyo-e masterpieces with the works on display changed every month to match a new theme.

Utagawa Hiroshige “Plum Park in Kameido”

*The above artworks are not displayed in the permanent exhibition.

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Scan QR code for more information about the featured places in Harajuku & Omotesando

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MUSUBI Furoshiki are cloths used for anything from wrapping presents to making makeshift handbags and have been a part of Japanese culture since the 8th century. The cloths are still used today, and at Musubi, you’ll find a range of furoshiki in different patterns and designs — both traditional and modern — and for different purposes, including interior decoration and gift wrapping. If you’re planning on bringing home gifts for friends or family, pick up a furoshiki to wrap it in for that quintessential Japanese touch.

DESIGN FESTA GALLERY

日本スクイーズセンター

Design Festa Gallery was founded with the philosophy of providing an exhibition space for all artists. Located on a small side street in Harajuku, this gallery consists of two buildings, with the west building decked in chic black iron tubes. Here artists exhibits their own original pieces, regardless of their preferred medium or style. The gallery is like a treasure trove, always full of surprises. Come by and you just may find something extraordinary on display inside.

Nihon Squishy Center

To Harajuku

Squishies are the hottest stress relief toys in the world right now. Nihon Squishy Center, a squishy specialty shop, has collaborated with Tokyo Bakery to launch a series of cute and kawaii, sweet and savory squishies that can only be bought at this location. If you are looking for one-of-a-kind souvenir to bring home, this is a must-visit. *Some days require a reservation to enter the store. Please check their website for more information.

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FUN IN TOKYO

Around Tokyo in 180 minutes 東 京 の ナ イトラ イフ の 楽 し み Tokyo nightlife is some of the best in the world, with amazing restaurants, night clubs, live music, and performances to perk anyone back up after a long day on their feet sightseeing. Come out and experience all the city has to offer after-hours!

It’s just not summer time without a trip to visit a Japanese Beer Garden!

Scan QR code for more information about the featured beer events

Though the idea of sitting at a huge table, drinking beer and eating with friends and family originated in Munich, Germany back in the 19th century, the trend has caught on all over the world, and beer gardens have become wildly popular in Japan.

However, visitors to a Japanese beer garden will notice one major difference: that most are located on rooftop terraces of establishments like hotels or department stores. Only open during the hot summer months, they provide a great place to relax with others while sampling different types of beer, eating a variety of light dishes from your go-to fried chicken to the more Prussian choice of sausages, all as the sun

sets on the horizon. Different beer gardens offer different menus, so it’s always worth looking around to find the one that’s right for your palate!

Although ordering and payment systems can vary from garden to garden, the most common style offers a fixed charge for a certain amount of time, meaning basically that from the time you sit down until your time is up, it’s all-you-can-drink. Other beer gardens combine this with all-you-can-eat options, or have you pay for everything you eat individually like in a standard restaurant — some even encourage you to bring your own food! Why not get together with friends for a summertime rooftop picnic?

Beautiful Beer Garden: for the health-conscious visitor!

Beer and BBQ: the perfect summer evening combo at Ark Hills Beer Garden!

Relax on a sofa at Ark Hills Beer Garden, on top of Roppongi’s South Tower. A must for BBQ lovers, here you can purchase cuts of meat from the butcher downstairs and barbecue to your heart’s content!

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Though some claim it to be the nectar of life, let’s be honest, beer is about as far as you can get from a “healthy beverage.” Fortunately, this Beer Garden in Ginza has already taken that into consideration, serving up highprotein, low-calorie food for anyone who may be watching his or her waistline or simply wants a healthier option to go with the beer.

Matcha Beer Garden @ GREEN TEA RESTAURANT 1899 OCHANOMIZU Try an exquisite blend of Japanese green tea and beer in 1899.

Nope, the brand doesn’t date back to the end of the 19th century; 1899 is the name of a beer garden in Ochanomizu that specializes in Japanese green tea, to the point where they’ve made their own beer out of it!

ROBOT RESTAURANT ロボット

The Dazzling レストラン Disarray of

Offering a wholly unique, bombastic spectacle of a show you’re unlikely to find anywhere else Whenever I meet people on vacation in Japan and ask them their plans, one thing invariably comes up: Robot Restaurant. Though I myself had never been to Kabukicho’s cyborg cafeteria, I have certainly passed it many times on my way to a night out in the red light district and would occasionally see the gigantic flatbed trucks they drive around Shinjuku station, with two of the robots loaded onto the back to promote the show. Suffice to say, it was simply one of those things that I was very much aware of but never really gave a whole lot of thought to, like the Empire State Building for New Yorkers or the Louvre for Parisians.

Now, before anyone grabs a pitchfork

about comparing a preeminent art gallery to a basement in Tokyo which looks like a hall decorated by the son of Liberace and Rip Taylor, and where customers are initially shepherded into a room with a baritone lady dressed in a wedding gown backed by Daft Punk rejects playing backing tracks as she belts out ‘90s R&B staples, know that I’m only comparing the actual act of visiting the two here, not what’s on display.

The show I attended was completely full, and with only four shows per day starting rather early, , it simply never entered my mind to go of my own accord. Now that I have seen it, however, and been tasked with describing Robot Restaurant to the uninitiated, the only description that comes

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B.B. Clarke to mind would be, “Hot from America fever dream of confusion.”

Japan has always been known for its prowess at adapting and innovating anything from androids to automobiles. The show at the Robot Restaurant is inspired by everything, ranging from Japanese history to, mecha anime, carnival acts, Greek mythology, dinosaurs, and J-pop. Like the artisan who builds giant monuments to Barbra Streisand out of miniature toy cars, Robot Restaurant offers a completely unique experience that can not be found anywhere else. If you’re looking for a fast, frenetic, bright, bombastic spectacle, you could do a lot worse than Robot Restaurant.

“We came at the recommendation of friends .”

Pedro & Joana from Portugal

“They told us to keep our expectations low but that we were in for a good show. We heard the show has mellowed out over the years, but that it is still a unique experience.”

“we were stoked to go” “We first heard about this place from Anthony Bourdain, and it kept popping up in Google Maps under things to do, so we figured we’d check it out.

We were really interested to see what it was all about, and when a relative said they’d bought us tickets as a gift for our honeymoon, we were stoked to go.”

Jennifer & Nick from America

行 く ぞ︕ 台へ 最高の舞

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Nature & Hiking

Let’s Conquer Mt. Fuji and Embrace Nature

Scan the QR Code to find out more!

Stay 1

Stay at Fujikyu Unjo-kaku at Mt. Fuji’s Fifth Station If you're traveling on a tight budget, Fujikyu Unojokaku capsule hotel is your best choice for the night. It's equipped with shower rooms and the cabin interior is spacious enough for a good night's sleep. The restaurant is open to both backpackers, tourists and groups so don’t miss their delicious hot breakfast or dinner.

Website: https://www.fujiyama-navi.jp/unjyokaku/en/

Stay 2

Stay at Hotel Mt. Fuji Situated in the Mt. Fuji and Lake Yamanakako area, Hotel Mt Fuji prides itself on its enchanting view of Mt. Fuji from its garden. The half open-air bath “Hanare-no-yu” also commands a splendid view of the mountain that only bathers can enjoy.

Website: https://www.mtfuji-hotel.com/lp/en/ 22

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Although considered a sacred mountain, Mt. Fuji isn't inaccessible. It is open to hikers from July to September each year when thousands of climbers flock in for a hiking pilgrimage. However, you don’t have to be a professional hiker to get to the very top and enjoy the breathtaking beauty of Mt. Fuji. A walk in the deep greenery of Mt. Fuji is enough to enable you to take in its magnificent nature and endless charms.

Mt. Fuji is the pride of the Japanese people and a must-visit attraction for foreign tourists, receiving thousands of visitors in summer. Although we would like to climb to the peak one day, this time, we decided to experience the nature surrounding the mountain. We took a direct bus from Tokyo to Mt. Fuji Station.

Besides the challenging hiking trails to the peak, there are also several trails suitable for everyone.

The Ochudo Trail (Oniwa/Okuniwa) for example is a paved walking path for beginners. After arriving at Mt. Fuji Station, we hopped on a bus, got off at Okuniwa Station and started our trip. By following this trail, you can enjoy the scenery of undergrowth that resembles a garden.

It is made up of Northern Japanese hemlocks, larches and Veitch’s silver firs that are over 700 years old and have been shaped through time by the surrounding lava rocks, the strong snows and winds. This gorgeous scene, covered with lofty mountains and varied greenery, was enough to refresh us after our trek.

Ochudo Trail is a 2.9 kilometer path that circles Mt Fuji halfway up. In the past, only those who had reached the peak of Mt. Fuji three times were allowed to take this path. For pilgrims who worship Mt. Fuji, trekking on the Ochudo Trail is a part of the severe ascetic practice of training the mind. Today, even beginners like us are welcome to take this path, which travels through gravel sand and coniferous forest, before reaching Mt. Fuji’s tree line.

Most visitors want to witness “goraiko”, the sunrise from the top of Mt. Fuji. For those who are not prepared to go all the way up, the sixth station is also a nice place to welcome the sunrise.

If you can endure the cold temperatures between 4 and 5 degrees Celsius, start your climb at 3 am and you’ll reach the sixth station in time to bathe in the beautiful sunlight of the dawn. Watching the sun rise from a sea of clouds is a moment to cherish for a lifetime.

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1. Sunrise at Mt Fuji’s sixth station

2. Half open-air bath “Hanare-no-yu”

3. Cycling around Lake Yamanakako @Hana-no-miyako Park 4. Hoto is a local delicacy worth trying 5. A walk in the Ochudo Trail

6. Be wowed by Mt. Fuji’s forest line

Tour the Fuji Five Lakes on a Bus

Get Around with Mt. Fuji PASS

“Highlights Fujisan-Go” stops by various attractions

If you're planning to visit the Mt. Fuji area, Mt. Fuji Pass

in the Fuji Five Lakes area, as well as the fifth station

is your best travel mate! Fujik yuko, a conglomerate

on Mt. Fuji, Oshino Hakkai and other tourist spots.

operating local buses and trains, has made transportation

The bus comes with a tour guide who explains the

easier with one-day, two-day and three-day travel passes.

significance of these places. The same information

The pass allows you to enjoy unlimited rides on most

is provided in Chinese, English and Thai through

buses and trains operating in the Mt. Fuji area. You also

an audio guide so you'll have no problem understanding.

get discounts on admission fees at various attractions

Fugaku Fuketsu Wind Cave and Mt. Fuji Fifth Station AM Route Children: 1,450 JPY Adult: 2,900 JPY Lake Kawaguchiko, Lake Yamanakako and Oshino PM Route Children: 1,450 JPY Adult: 2,900 JPY *Those who sign up for the above tours are entitled to a 1,000 JPY coupon for meals or souvenirs (children are given 500 JPY coupon instead). The coupon can be used at Fujikyu Unjokaku on Mt. Fuji’s Fifth station and “Gateway Fujiyama” inside Kawaguchiko Station. Website: http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/highlights/

by presenting the pass. This is a must-have!

If you have a foreign passport with you, you can purchase the pass at Otsuki Station, Kawaguchiko Station, Mt. Fuji Station, Asahigaoka Bus Terminal, Gotemba Station, Mishima Station, Shin-fuji Station or Fujinomiya Station.

Cycling around Lake Yamanakako: Feel the Summer Breeze The Fuji Five Lakes area is known for picturesque views that change every season. Summer is the best season to visit as trees are greener and more vibrant. Lake Yamanakako, the highest in altitude among the five lakes, is a renowned destination in Japan for summer escapes and vacations.

After watching the sunrise from Mt. Fuji, you can take a bus downhill to Lake Yamanakako for a cycling trip.

We got our bikes from PICA Yamanaka Lake Village, an establishment with cottage guest houses, a hammock café and a garden well-suited to barbecues. The cycling trail around Lake Yamanakako is well maintained and stops by many attractions, such as “Hana-no-miyako Park” with its blossoming flowers and “Nagaike Water Park” with Mt. Fuji in the background. With scenery as beautiful as any painting, you can take a picture from any angle you want.

Mt. Fuji is a spot worth visiting all year round. However, only in summer do you have the chance to go all the way to the top.

Rent a Bike at PICA Yamanaka Lake Village PICA Yamanaka Lake Village also offers bike rentals, even for people not staying at their cottage. Cycling is undoubtedly the best way to enjoy nature around Lake Yamanakako. http://yamanakako.pica-village.jp/en/

Hassel-free Trekking! " Yamarent" is a shop where you can rent professional trekking equipment.

It has a counter in Fujik yu Unjo-kaku during the summer season. With an online reser vation, hikers can get the e q uip m e n t t h e y w a n t t h e n e x t da y without any hassle. The equipment can be returned to the counter after use.

English and Chinese service available. http://www.yamarent.com/ ( Japanese)

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Summer Explorations and Adventures in Tohoku Tohoku’s six prefectures along with Niigata Prefecture are the ideal destinations to go for a taste of Japan’s wellpreserved tradition, culture and mind-boggling natural curiosities. Visit the area in person for an experience that is a step away from the ordinary. Join us on this journey to explore the finest attractions!

Rediscover the Charm of Niigata Sasagawa Nagare at Murakami Great View of Unique Rocks and Reefs Sasagawa Nagare(f low) is the coast to the nor th of Murakami-shi located about 65 km northeast of Niigata -shi. Designated as a national natural treasure and voted one of Japan’s top 100 sea views, it boasts a stunning view of rocks. Sasagawa Flow got its name from a village called Sasagawa along the river course.

The coast filled with these mysterious and naturally shaped works of art is the site of a legend involving a famous warrior named Minamoto no Yoshitsune. He is well-known by Japanese people as a tragic hero, who is said to have embarked on a boat here while fleeing the capital for the nor theast. Present-day visitors can also embark here on a cruise boat and enjoy the gentle sea breeze, appreciate the unique rock formations and experience seagull feeding. You can also get your hands on all kinds of mouthwatering sun/sea wind-dried fish products at stores located along the coast.

Sasagawa Nagare Access: 15min walk from Kuwagawa Station (Uetsu Main Line) Address: 975-44 Kuwagawa, Murakami-shi, Niigata URL: http://www.sasagawanagare.co.jp/ ( Japanese) 24

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Strolling through Gold Mines Gold Rush on Sado Island Sado Island is off the coast of Niiagata and it only takes 65 minutes by the jetfoil boat from Niigata Port to get to this island packed with natural treasures and limitless charm. Gold and silver was produced on the island as early as 11th century. Due to the discovery of gold and silver in Aikawa area in 1601, Sado Island flourished as a prosperous mining town. However, the mine was shut down in 1989 because of resource depletion.

Quite a few relics and mining facilities are open to the public today, one of which is Kitazawa Flotation Plant. It is known as East Asia’s first flotation plant.

The gigantic plant, which used the flotation method, is now covered in moss and vines. Although its glory has long faded, its charm and nostalgia remain unchanged.

“Doyu-no-warito,” a V-shaped mountain-top split resulting from opencast mining in the Edo period, serves as a symbol of Sado’s prime days. Without the help of modernday heavy machinery, workers had no choice but to dig by hand, making the sight even more impressive.

At Historic Site Sado Kinzan, visitors can walk through several mine tunnels dug by hand in the Edo period, such as the Sohdayu Tunnel. Life-size mannequins of Edo-era miners are there to greet you. While you're there, try a local specialty—ice cream with gold flakes—and immerse yourself in the best of Sado!

Kitazawa Floatation Plant Access: 50min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 3-2 Aikawa Kitazawamachi, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: https://www.visitsado.com/en/spot/detail0091/ (English) Doyu-no-warito Access: 50min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 1-1 Aikawa Ginzanmachi, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: https://www.visitsado.com/en/spot/detail0094/ (English) Historic Site Sado Kinzan Access: 60min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 1305 Shimo Aikawa, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: http://www.sado-kinzan.com/en/ (English)

Sea Voyage on Tarai-bune An Inspiration for Ghibli’s Anime “Spirited Away” In the past 150 years, women on Sado Island followed the tradition of transforming their wash tubs (Tarai) into a small boat (Bune) to facilitate the collection of seaweed and shell fish on rocky shores . While the practice is still found on Ogi peninsula, also used for tourism purposes today. The tradition was made known to the world by a Ghibli anime called “Spirited Away,” in which the heroine took a ride on the round boat during her adventures.

You c an enjoy a tub boat ride from Ogikou, Yajima /Kyojima and Shukunegi. Although the boat ride from Yajima/Kyojima only takes you around the bay, there is a small red pedestrian bridge and a picturesque view worth seeing.

The boat driver rows gently, but it can take you a while to get used to the swaying movement to the point where you can just enjoy the ride and accompanying explanation. The boat has a glass bottom enabling you to look directly into the waters for fish and algae. Clear water, blue skies, green grass and shrubs and the red pedestrian bridge combine to form a beautiful landscape no visitors should miss. You can have a try at paddling yourself but it won’t be easy. Best leave the work to professionals and sit back and imagine yourself as the heroine in “Spirited Away”!

Yajima Taiken Koryukan Access: 70min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 365-1 Ogi, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: https://www.visitsado.com/en/spot/detail0039/

Iwate, Land of Marvels

Folk Legends from Tono

The fantastical land of Yokai Welcome to Tono, home of the most Yokai in Japan Hop on a bicycle and see which ones you can find!

▲ Kappa Hunting License

Surrounded by 1000m high mountains, the village of Tono in Iwate is the ground zero for folklore about Yokai-banashi (haunting tales of spirits, demons and monsters). Even now, Tono is known as the “Village of Folklore” as its tales continue to be through the traditional art of Japanese storytelling called Kataribe. If you’re feeling brave and hunger for adventure then rent a bicycle in front of Tono Station and set off for “Tono’s Mysterious Spots” in search of Yokai. Maybe you’ll find some Yokai that are the ancestors of creatures that appear in anime and games like Pokémon.

Once you’ve got your rental bicycle from Tono Station head on over to a small river with a little shrine next to it called Kappa-buchi Pool. This is one of Tono’s most well-known “mystery spots” and home of Tono’s most famous water spirit Yokai, the Kappa. For just a couple of

Hayachine Shrine worships the god that is believed to reside within Mount Hayachine. Long ago the people of Tono gave thanks to the water that flowed from the mountain allowing them to farm.

They believed that when you died your spirit would go to the mountain. This mountain worship helped create the mysterious folklore in Tono.

hundred yen you can get a “Kappa Hunting License” issued by Tono Tourism Association (you can pick one up at the Tourism Information center in front of the station and Denshoen Park near the Kappa-buchi pool for 210yen). With the license you can set out to catch some Kappa in the village. If you’re lucky, you might just run into the famous Kappa hunter Haruo Unman at the pool. Mr. Unman says to hook a cucumber to the fishing line of a bamboo pole and cast it in a gentle current where a Kappa might be swimming pleasantly underneath.

He adds that the trick is to not let the whole cucumber go in the water. That said, even Mr. Unman has yet to catch a Kappa himself. Who knows, maybe you’ll be the first to snag one.

At the beginning of the 20th century, a Japanese scholar named Kunio Yanagita who specializes in native folklore published a collection of tales (Tono Monogatari) from the Tono area that have raditionally only been passed down orally. The popularity of that collection

The Magariya farmhouse in Denshoen Park enshrines 1,000 Oshira-sama deities (a guardian of the home).

shot Tono to fame. Tono is filled with so many magical locations that make you feel as if you’ve been transported to some strange parallel world. Denshoen Park and Tono Furusato Village are just two examples. At the park the oldest traditional L-shaped farmhouse, called a Nambu-magariya, has been reconstructed piece-by-piece giving a glimpse into what life was like for farmers of Tono long ago. With peaceful countryside that has gone untouched for hundreds of years and flat roads, Tono is perfect for tracking down Yokai.

Tono Access: 45-60min from Shin-Hanamaki Station (JR Tohoku Shinkansen)

by JR Kamaishi Line to Tono Station URL: http://www.tonojikan.jp/Several_languages/english/english.html Bicycle rental: Prices start from around 500 JPY for 2 hours

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Denshoen Park Hours: 9am-5pm Apr-Dec (Last admission at 4:30pm) 9am-4pm Jan-Feb (Last admission at 3:30pm) Admission: Adults 320 JPY, Children ages 7-18 220 JPY Access:25min from Tono Station (JR Kamaishi Line) by bicycle URL: http://www.tonojikan.jp/Several_languages/english/english.html

Over 200 years ago a large-scale famine took the lives of thousands people of Tono. 500 stone Buddhist images called Gohyaku-rakan were carved to bring comfort to the souls of those who perished.

Bicycle rental: Prices start from around 500 JPY for 2 hours

Explore the “Blue Caves” of the sea and mountains Let friendly fisherman guide you to the “Blue Cave” on the Sappa Boat Cruise Jodogahama is the most spectacular place along the Rikuchu-kaigan Coast of Iwate’s Miyakoshi. In Japanese Jodo means “Paradise”. With the striking contrast of the lush blue sea against the beauty of the sharp jagged pale rhyolite rocks, it’s no wonder this place has been given the name of the Buddhist “Paradise”. Within the sea and the rocks this paradise hides a mystical place. The Blue Cave offers an unbelievable and unforgettable experience. (See P2) To get there you’ll need to strap on a helmet, a lifejacket and take a little ride on a small fishing boat called the Sappa boat. As you make your way over high waves, you’ll come to a small opening between rugged cliffs and slowly enter. It’s a thrilling experience. When you look back at the small narrow opening in the cliffs that you just bent your body to squeeze through, you’ll be mesmerized by the breathtaking emerald green and cobalt blue colors of the crystal-clear blue water. On top of that, you’ll be greeted by your own reflection dancing on the water’s surface.

Fares: 1,500 JPY per person for 20min Sappa Boat Cruise (Jodogahama Marinehouse) *No reservations, boats may also not be able to leave port due to weather conditions Access: 15min from Miyako Station (JR Yamada Line/ Sanriku Railway) by bus, 5min walk from the Jodogahama Visitor Center URL: http://j-marine.com/sappa/index.html (Japanese)

The shimmering “Dragon Blue” underground lakes of Ryusendo According to legend, the limestone cave is believed to have originated in ancient times when a large dragon burst out from Mount Iwayama, shattering the mountain as it ascended to the heavens. The dragon left a massive hole in the earth which began to gush with water. With a depth of 35m, the underground lake was named “Dragon Blue” for its beautiful sparkling crystal-clear blue water. Of the cave’s 3,600m (2.2 mile) length, 700m (half a mile) is available to explore. The temperature inside the cave throughout the year is about 10 to 11ºC (50 to 52ºF), so even in summer you’ll need a jacket.

Hours: 8:30am-6pm May-Sep, 8:30am-5pm Oct-Apr, Open year round Access: 2-hr 10min from Morioka Station (JR Tohoku Shinkansen) by the JR Tohoku “Morioka-Iwaizumi ( Ryusendo )” Line bus Admission: Adults (High School students & above) 1,000 JPY, Children (Elementary & Junior High School students) 500 JPY

Walk the mountain path to enlightenment (Yamagata) Experience the ancient shamanistic practices of Yamabushi spiritual training Yamagata has one of Japan’s most well-known sacred places for mountain worship, the Dewa Sanzan or the “Three Mountains of Dewa”. This ancient shamanistic training practiced by Buddhist monks is called Yamabushi. So, what do you say to a lit tle pilgrimage of spiritual enlightenment?

It’s sure to be a different experience than sightseeing by bus or car. The easiest route is the Mount Haguro Pilgrimage route beginning from the Zuishinmon gate leading up to the mountain summit. The climb is 1.7km (1 mile) and should take you about 90 minutes to reach the top. This particular pilgrimage dates back to the Edo period. Along your way you will come across the famous Mount Haguro Goju-no-to (f ive-stor y pagoda).

The Michelin Green Guide Japan gave this scenic path its top honor of three stars. As you climb the 2,446 steps to spiritual discovery, taking in the beauty of rows of magnificent cedar trees which are between 350-500 years old, it’s easy to see why this area is regarded so highly.

Climbing Mount Haguro Access: 50min from Tsuruoka Station (JR Uetsu Line) by bus bound for Haguro -sancho (Summit of Mount Haguro) URL: http://experiencetsuruoka.com/ WAttention Tokyo |

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Tokyo Hot News Another 3hr Trip: Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

Old Meets New Tokyo Bayside Story Short Trip from Tokyo: Let’s Conquer Mt. Fuji and Embrace Nature

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