WAttention Singapore vol 3 by WAttention

温泉連っにれてて

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ISSUE 03 AUTUMN2010

FLY ME TO THE ONSEN SHINSHU

STILL LIFE OF MOUNTAIN BEAUTY

MYSTERIOUS JAPAN STORY 3

SHINSHU, WHERE GODS RESIDE

CRAFTSMAN TATARA SEITESU OF MASTER HOW TO BE A GOOD TRAVELER JAPANESE RECIPES FOR YOUR DAILY TABLE

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Fly me to the

“ To an onsen!” This was what most Wattention readers said when asked where they’d like to go when they visit Japan.

ONSN There are more than 2,400 formally registered hot springs all over Japan. The number will double if you include private onsens or those that are currently being drilled. So you’ll have plenty of choices when it comes to which onsen to visit. You can go to practically any part of Japan to enjoy an onsen.

What is an onsen or a hot spring?

Onsen technically means either a place or phenomenon where hot water springs from the ground. According to “the hot spring law”, onsen water must have temperatures of above 25℃ in Japan, Korea, Taiwan and South Africa, above 20℃ in European countries like Italy and France, and above 21 ℃ in USA. The water must also have at least more than one of 18 compounds, including manganese, ion and radium salt, to qualify it as a hot spring. Often in Japan, the springs have much higher levels of such compounds than required. Each onsen location offers different water types and qualities – such as carbonate springs, sulfur springs or intense salt springs – but a common characteristic among them is the rich content of minerals in the water that is known to be beneﬁcial for health; it can give you smoother skin, ease stiff shoulders or even aid in slimming. The medicinal value of these hot 06

springs have been recognised since ancient times, and have been known to alleviate symptoms like nerverelated pains, excessive sensitivity to cold, diabetes, ringworm and so on. Traditionally in Japan, many who hope to cure chronic diseases often immerse themselves in therapeutic baths called “tooji”, and stay for longer periods at such spas.

Charming open-air hot springs - “roten-buro” Can you imagine dipping yourself in an open-air hot spring bath – with the wind rustling past and sunlight bathing you – as you soak in the surrounding scenic beauty? This is a quintessential “roten-buro” experience, whether you’re enjoying the lush greens of summer, the splendid bright colours of autumn, quiet snow scenes in winter or a night bath under a starry sky. Relaxing in a hot spring bath and falling in love with the scenery around you makes for a memorable experience.

Japan is blessed with many hot springs, each with a distinct characteristic. Here are some of the more popular places:

Shirahone hot spring

Tsurunoyu

Tsurunoyu (crane’s hot water), a part of Nyuto hot springs (Akita Prefecture), is situated in a deep mountain and earned its name from an old local folklore as a place where cranes used to go to nurse their wounds. This is a very popular place because visitors love the unspoiled natural beauty of the mountains while relaxing in the milky hot spring with a sulfurous content. Many foreign travellers come here from all over the world. Kuroneiwa-buro (Shizuoka Prefecture) is located by the sea and has an open atmosphere. It is a wonderful spot to enjoy the scenery of the vast ocean spread right in front of you while you soak in the hot spring. The scent of the ocean and sound of waves add to the sense of relaxation. It’s a mixed bathing place, but don’t worry! You can wrap a towel around yourself when entering the bath. The hours between 19:00 and 21:00 are allocated exclusively to ladies.

Shirahone (Nagano Prefecture) is a public openair hot spring at the confluence of two rivers – the Yuzawa and the Yukawa. Surrounded by a forest of broadleaf trees, the autumn scenes are simply breathtaking, creating a heavenly experience when bathing during this season.

Mixed bathing is a part of time-honoured Japanese culture You may be astonished and even feel repulsed, but don’t be, because this has been a common custom since the Edo period (1603-1868). Public baths have

served as social gathering places, where everyone – including men and women, old and young – enjoyed each other’s company. In those days, hot springs were meant for locals who knew each other very well, and would uninhibitedly scrub each other’s back while enjoying local gossip. Mixed bathing in modern days is the legacy of this custom in agrarian Japan. Many historic hot springs, such as Hooshi Onsen (known to be 1,200 years old), are meant for mixed bathing. One good aspect of mixed bathing is that the whole family or a couple can take a bath together. Nowadays, the tendency to prefer mixed baths is getting popular among young women. Some would say that they felt shy in the beginning, but with their boyfriends nearby, they felt very safe. Others don’t enjoy hot springs when they have to be separated into single-sex sections. “Going to an onsen on a weekend is a special occasion for us. We enjoy bathing in an onsen together.” Enjoying a dip together with friends in an onsen to chat or to enjoy the view would deﬁnitely make for a memorable holiday.

Reserved open-air onsen, gaining popularity For those of you who ﬁnd bathing with total strangers totally unacceptable, there is a solution! You can reserve an area in a hot spring – either open-air or indoor – exclusively for you and your loved ones. Many inns and hotels offer rooms with these exclusive onsens. Reserved open-air onsen

Kuroneiwa-buro

For pleasant onsen experience; Do as the Japanese onsen-goers do, and enjoy your own onsen experiences! Check the next page to ﬁnd out about appropriate manners when enjoying an onsen.

Japanese etiquette for visitors <1>

Sakura

How to Be a

When you travel, you tend to meet different kinds of people and be in touch with other cultures, but do you know about their local etiquette? Miss Wattention, SAKURA, and her little bear KUMATA will show you how to enjoy Japan's unique culture in an authentic way. You won't feel embarrassed if you know basic their manners and etiquette.

GoodTraveller

Kumata

温泉 onsen

An Onsen is a term for natural hot springs and is often used to describe bathing establishments and inns around the hot springs. Traditionally, Onsen is a public bathing place and even today, you often share the bathtub with others. There is an established code of etiquette for Onsen. If you follow these rules, it would mean a pleasurable experience for everyone.

Etiquette at ONSEN ★Basic Manners

Wash aned rins bathing before

All guests are expected to wash their bodies and rinse themselves thoroughly at the bathing area before entering the hot water.

Prohibited Actions Rowdiness in the washing and bathing areas is prohibited. Splashing around and immersing your towel in the Onsen water is not allowed. Before stepping into the changing room, bathers should wipe their bodies off to keep the room dry and clean.

No!

Before you leave the bathing area, ensure you stack the stools up, return all the amenities (like soap and shampoo) back to their original place.

Don’ t dip a

No big splash

Don’ t make so much noise 0808

idy up Let’s t

elf s r u o y Dry re leaving befo

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WHAT TO DO @ ONSEN (1)Kakeyu – take a hot shower before soaking It is important to take a steaming hot shower before soaping. It's to let your body warm up and relax, reduce stress and risk of sudden heart attack, as well as be accustomed to a higher temperature. Pour the steaming hot water slowly from toes to thighs, fingers to shoulders.

m and ftroo shfoiungers lders

Poumr htooteswtaoter thighs fro (2)The right method of bathing

A sudden move into the hot water isn't good for the body. First, submerge only the lower part of your body, and gradually soak your whole body into the bath. Ideal soaking time is about 10 minutes for 40ºC water, and 20 minutes for lukewarm water (36-38ºC). Be careful not to soak in too long or too many times, otherwise your body will be hurt. NEVER take a bath when you are drunk.

First, only half body

Ｔｈａｔ ’ nice s ~!

(3)Have a good rest after a bath After bathing, take a rest for at least 30 to 60 minutes. Taking a bath twice per day should suffice. Too long and too much bathing can be harmful to your body. Be sure to drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration.

.... hmm Illustrator & Manga Artist

Sonoko Azuma

She started her career working for one of the most established manga magazines in Japan. Since then, her artworks have been widely featured in publications and websites.

then soak in

Wow...!

Drink plenty of water.

Be careful! o Too long & to much bathing l. can be harmfu See you next time! Have fun!

! So good

Nagano Prefecture, also known locally as Shinshu, is famous for its breathtaking natural beauty and the many hot springs that are spread around the area. There is also mystic Togakushi as well as the splendid Matsumoto Castle. All these delightful spots in Shinshu are well worth visiting. Here is a glimpse of some attractive spots set within the awesome mountainous beauty of Shinshu.

Kamikochi - grand panorama of nature Shinshu’s biggest attraction for visitors is its beautiful mountains. The Northern, Central and Southern Alps ranges run from the north to the south, and the series of high mountains with altitudes of more than 3,000m – including the famous 3,100m-high Oku-hodaka Mountain – can be easily observed here. The rarely visited region of ‘Kamikochi’, located along the Katsuragawa River basin that divides this area and the rest of the world below, is very well known. Motor trafﬁc is restricted in this area to preserve its unspoiled nature. It is home to Myojinike (where God was supposed to have descended from the heavenly skies), which is connected to the Katsuragawa 10

River that is fed with the meltwater of the Northern Alps, and surrounded by forests of ancient trees. All of these combine to create a mystic scene. The Kamikochi mountain region is open between April 23 and November 15.

Myojin-ike Myojin-ike lies with solemn stillness within the innermost sanctum of the Hotaka Shrine, and is considered sacred because God is believed to be residing in these premises. Seasonal changes are reﬂected on the mirror-like surface of the lake, giving it divine beauty. The lake is also famous for its crystal clear water that never gets frozen even in winter, thanks to the groundwater spring from nearby Myojin Mountain.

Myojin-ike

Autumn colours in the mountains Autumn brings fiery hues to the forests, and the whole mountain range takes on colours that make it seem as if it was on ﬁre. This is one of the wonderful sceneries brought on by one of Japan’s favourite

colours. You can relish the reds of the rowan trees, the yellows of the dakekanba (Betula erumaii) and a grand orchestra of exquisite autumn palettes. If you are really fortunate, you may be able to catch a combination of the three-layered colours of the foliage, fresh snow and blue sky.

Touring various types of hot springs

There are about 235 hot spring spots counted in Shinshu, making it the second largest collection in Japan. Yudanaka hot springs village, Shirahone hot springs, Bessho hot springs and Nozawa hot springs are well known throughout the country. Shinshu offers a multitude of tours that visit various hot springs of different qualities and atmosphere. You can also enjoy a different history and culture at each place you visit.

Bessho hot springs

Taisho pond

seasons. The best season for autumn viewing in Kamikochi is from the middle of October till the end of November, when the explosion of colours break out at the top of Hotaka Mountain before it rapidly sheds until the first snow falls. Watching the rowan trees change into flaming red across the foot of the Roppyakusan Mountain is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Views from the wooden suspension bridge – called ‘Kappabashi’ – are known to be the best.

This is the oldest hot spring spot in Shinshu. It was developed as a sacred Buddhist ground, and used to be called the “hot spring for relieving seven miseries”, indicating that the efficacy of this hot spring was strongly tied with religious faith. The spring water has a simple sulfur quality and is considered good for curing nerve-related pains, muscle

ache, stiff shoulders and other such ailments. The slightly slick texture of the water is also known as “spring water for beautiful skin.”

Shirahone hot spring This is a quiet hot spring spot with abundant natural charm, surrounded by the Oku-Hida (inner Oku) mountains. The name Shirahone (meaning “white bone”) came into being when tree branches that had fallen into the hot spring turned white like human bones due to calcareous substances in the water. This spring water contains sulfurous and calcareous elements, and is transparent until it comes into contact with air, when it turns white. A notable feature of this hot spring is ‘kakenagashi’（*1）, a type of hot spring bath where natural hot water is continuously run into bath tubs as it flows out. The water is believed to be effective for curing gastrointestinal disorder, nerve-related pains, feminine ailments and chronic fatigue. The hot spring water is good to drink as well. Legend says that if you take a Shirahone hot spring bath for three days, you won’t catch a cold for three years. (*1) Hot water, either naturally sprung or pumped out from the hot spring, is directly supplied into bathtubs and is allowed to drain out without being circulated.

Coloured leaves of Karasawa

Shirahone hot spring

Kappabashi

Shirahone hot spring

A six and a half hour walk from Kamikochi takes you to Japan’s renowned glacier cirque called ‘Karasawa’. Although it requires a bit of effort to hike here, the place is considered one of the very best spots in Japan to enjoy the mountain foliage as it display its glorious 11

Kakeyu hot spring This peaceful hot spring spot has been thriving since the Edo period, as its water was famous for curing many diseases. According to legend, Monju Bosatsu, a Buddhist god, in the guise of a deer, had disclosed the location of this hot spring to a faithful hunter. ‘Godaikyo’, the landmark of Kakeyu hot spring, is known to be ‘the bridge that connects this world and the world of God.’ The spring quality is mildly alkaline, and the crystal clear soft water wraps you with real warmth. Its efficacy is said to ease nerve-related pains, joint aches and rheumatism and, if you drink the water, it regulates the function of the intestines.

Matsumoto Castle, a majestic and gallant castle Located in the centre of Matsumoto City, Matsumoto Castle, with five stories and six floors, was built in the Bunroku period (1593-1594), and is the oldest existing castle in Japan. It is one of four castles designated as National Treasure Castles. Standing majestically with its marvellous keep on the top that was the masterpiece of castle design during the Civil War period, the noble castle reflects its past glories and four hundred-odd years of history. Unlike its European counterparts, Japanese castles were built mainly as a fort during times of war, and were used as storage for weapons and food during times of peace. The tower was the symbol of the castle – it was not meant as the residence of warlords, but

rather, built to observe the movement of enemies outside the moat and activities within the castle. Presently, the castle area has been developed into a park and you can enjoy strolls around the well-maintained premises. This magnificent castle stands tall with the beautiful with the Northern Alps in the background, and is admired by many as the symbol of Matsumoto.

Soba (buckwheat noodle), a delicacy of the mountain country Among the many delicious food items in Shinshu, soba is the first cuisine people think of as the main delicacy of the region. Known as ‘Shinshu soba’, it is

Matsumoto Castle

Godaikyo

Togakushi soba

widely loved by everyone in Japan. It’s not only delicious, but nutritious as well; it contains varieties of rutin, plant ﬁbres and proteins, and is rich with vitamins and minerals.

Togakushi soba The secret to the deliciousness of Shinshu soba lies within its land that is covered by volcanic ash, and its cool climate. Togakushi is known as the sanctuary of Shinshu soba, where the average annual temperature as low as 8.6ºC, with a sizeable difference in temperature between night and day. Because of this, the buckwheat here grow in an often foggy weather, giving it a superior quality and earning it the nickname ‘soba under the fog’. Soba can be harvested twice in a year – in summer and autumn – but autumn soba has a higher yield and is tastier. Noodle shops here serve ‘new soba’ made from freshly harvested buckwheat ﬂour in November. The rich flavour of Togakushi soba comes from its pure natural water that is used for making soba noodles, which enhances its aroma and texture when eaten. Togakushi soba used to be served to shrine pilgrims on a tray made of locally-grown knottybamboo in small portions. Mounds of soba were piled in the shape of little horseshoes, which is the original method when dedicating it to God. It’s also easy to hold the noodles with chopsticks this way, and this custom of serving soba is being carried out till today as an expression of hospitality to guests. <Access to various places> To visit Nagano, it is most convenient to keep JR (Japan Railways) Nagano Station as a tour base. more informationURL >>

http://www.jreast.co.jp/e/shinshu/

How to reach JR Nagano Station From Tokyo: From Tokyo Station by Nagano Shinkansen Bullet Train ‘Asama’ to Nagano Station. Travelling time: 1 hour and 50 minutes. From Osaka and Nagoya: From Nagoya Station by Super Express ’Wide View Shinano’ to Nagano Station. Travelling time: 2 hours and 50 minutes. For further information and travelling access, visit

http//www.go-nagano.net/ 12

Mysterious Japan Story 3

Togakushi Shrine

～ Shinshu where Gods reside ～ Visit Shinshu and you will understand why this special place attracts so many people. Shinshu, the old name of Nagano Prefecture, has many fascinating places to visit, including “Togakushi” where many myths and legends have originated and is considered to be the place where Gods reside; the renowned “Shibu Hot Spring” which is often referred to as “the medicinal bath of the world” where people have been visiting for centuries; as well as ”Bungui-Toge,” a mountain path believed to be a location of a zero magnetic ﬁeld that emits active energy. A visit to Shinshu promises enchanting experiences with ﬁelds of mysterious and active power, unearthly legends and mind-boggling stories.

Togakushi Syuriken, Ninja's ﬁghting tools

“Legend of the Rock Door” connected with Togakushi

There is a mysterious legend connected with Togakushi, a hamlet in the deep mountain of Shinshu. According to the story – which was set in the age of the Gods – the Sun goddess, Amaterasu was angry with her god-brother Susanoo because of his outrageous behavior, and hid herself deep in a heavenly rock cave. The world then became engulfed in darkness,

and demons went on a rampage as they pleased. Worried and confused, the other Gods gathered together and chalked out a plan to get her back to the world. The “Plan” was to have a big party in front of the rock door and make a ruckus big enough to raise Amaterasu’s attention and make her open the door to see what was going on outside the cave; they would use that moment to throw the door open. The plan went as they foresaw, and when the door was slightly opened by the curious Amaterasu, Ameno-Tajik-

Shibu-ooyu

aranoono-Mikoto (a God of tremendous power) threw the rock door open, hurling it as far as Togakushi. Ever since that incident, the world was never dark again.

Bungui-toge

Togakushi Shrine, a Hallowed Ground The sacred Togakushi Mountain is connected to the famous “Legend of the Rock Door.” The door, which was thrown by Ameno-Tajikaranoono-Mikoto, landed on a mountain that has become Togakushi Mountain in its present shape. The Togakushi Shrine, located at the foot of Togakushi Mountain, has five subshrines where the Gods who were associated with “The Rock Door Legend” are enshrined. Since the Heian period (794-1182), it was a place of ascetic training by the monks of Shugendo, a Buddhist sect. Till this day, Togakushi is one of the most notable hallowed grounds in Japan. Along the approach to the innermost shrine, large Japanese cedar trees as old as 400 hundred years still stand in line, adding to the atmosphere of spiritual calmness.

Togakushi, a birthplace of Ninja A Ninja is best described as an individual or group of professionals who have acquired special skills called “Ninjutsu” (*1) and possessed special tools for the tasks of espionage, destruction and assassination. Legend states that Daisuke Nishina, who served the warlord Yoshinaka Kiso, founded the Togakushi school of Ninjutsu in the 12th century. The school’s teaching emphasises on defensive tactics, in which the ninja never attacks his enemies on his own, but instead disables his enemy’s strength in order to protect himself, his family and his masters. Various tools that the ninjas used are

displayed in the “Reference Center of Togakushi Ninpoo” at the Togakushi Folk Museum (368812 Ooaza Togakushi, Togakushi Mura, Kamiminochi District, Nagano District). (*1) A type of martial arts with which special training enabled Ninjas to spy on enemy territories for purposes of attack.

Shibu hot spring

Shibu Hot Spring, which has earned the moniker of “medicinal bath of the world” 1,300 years ago, consists of nine hot spring spots spread out in a warm resort with cobblestoned lanes. Each of these nine spots has its own efﬁcacies, such as cures for gastrointestinal disorders, eczema, skin diseases, chronic gout, nerverelated pains, chronic feminine diseases as well as powers of recuperation and beautification of skin. It is said that if you go around all nine hot spring spots – a practice referred to as “soto-yu”(*2) – your wishes will come true. The biggest among the nine hot spring spots is called “Shibu-ooyu,” which is believed to cure all diseases. It’s quite a sight to see a wooden hot tub ﬁlled with iron-smelling, brownish water. Even today, the locals use Soto-yu as a neighbourhood bath. You can fully enjoy onsen (hot spring) holidays and enrich your experience with local culture by socialising with locals when you use the hot springs. But be mindful of public bathing etiquette and don’t forget to say “Konnichiwa!” (Hello!) when you meet people. (*2) A public bath without accommodation

Bungui-toge mountain path

At an elevation of 1,424m, Bungui-toge is a zero-magnetic field sanctuary. Zeromagnetic field sanctuaries are places where the magnetic field is kept constantly to as low a point as zero. The idea is that when the North and South Poles push against each other, both magnetic fields are reduced to near zero. Compasses can never be still while needles are facing North, and will either keep turning or trembling. The Bungui-toge mountain path became an overnight sensation about ten years ago when it was first discovered, and the vital energy that it emitted was rare even by world standards. This mountain pass sits directly on the median tectonic line that is 1,000km long, creating a fault area that runs transversally along almost the entire island of Japan. Gigantic amounts of energy fill up around the area of the mountain path, which is presumed to be generated from the fault area where both sides of the fault push against each other. Many tourists from all over Japan come to feel the energy at this very special place. People not usually sensitive to such kinds of energy often say that they felt refreshed in body and spirit after coming here.

CRAFTSMAN 職人 ‘Tatara Seitetsu' of Master Akira Kihara

Tamahagane - beautifully strong steel, forged through hard work and sincerity

Japan’s 1,000-year tradition of iron making “tatara-buki” is still in use. Even renowned animator Hayao Miyazaki took inspiration from it, when creating his hit movie “ Princess Mononoke” . Only steel produced via this unique method can be called “ Tamahagane”, which is made into items like high-quality swords, that remain rust-free even after 800 years. A master of the art of tatara iron-making, Mr. Akira Kihara – a "Cultural Conservation Techniques Holder" – is the only living person to hold the title "Murage", an historic epithet reserved for the chief craftsman in a tatara workshop.

The Tatara Furnacemelding 1,000 giorious years of tradition Okuizumo in Shimane Prefecture lies in a rich, natural environment and has long been a backdrop for Japanese mythology. The town is also the ancient home of tatara-buki or “tatara blast”. Tatara is the ancient method by which iron sand is used (as a raw material), along with charcoal burnt in a special clay furnace. The result of which is a highly puriﬁed iron, thanks to the extreme heat from this special type of furnace. Called tamahagane, this unique iron is traditionally used in the art of Japanese sword making.

Tamahagane is also used for the restoration or reconstruction of traditional art pieces, such as the ancient statue of Kongourikishizo(Vajradhara) at Todaiji Temple. Dating from 1203, it was dismantled for repair from 1988-1993, with tamahagane used to replace the ancient clamps and nails. Why was so much effort given to simple nails and hinges? Objects made of ordinary iron may last mere decades, while tamahagane pieces - with the same qualities as the originals - can last centuries. The process of “tatara blast” is carried out over three days and nights by the side of a raging ﬁre.

Prior to this demanding marathon, the furnace itself must be prepared with “shitabae”, a process of tamping down the charcoal to a point where the fire is literally “groaning”, under the tremendous heat that’s melting the soil. Master Kihara judges the fire’s readiness by the colour of the ﬂames and consistency of the melted “noro” – the molten run-off of impurities. with a keen eye and precise timing, he then leads his assistants through the procedure. Continuing for 3 long days, it takes 10 tons of iron sand and 12 tons of charcoal to yield just 3 tons of superquality “kera” (steel).

By utilising abundant amounts of raw materials and a delicate balance of heat and pressure within the furnace, Master Kihara first creates a crystallized form of kera, from which the best parts of Tamahagane are selected. These will later ﬁnd their way into the making of superior pieces like Japanese swords. What makes a good quality tamahagane? Technical prowess is essential, but just as important is finding the right raw materials. Generic iron sand is not good enough for forging tamahagane, where the speciﬁc ratio of sand to iron components is crucial. Furthermore, the tamahagane method demands an exceptionally strong furnace with high heat-endurance levels. Master Kihara says, “It’s a pleasure beyond words when quality kera is produced after three days and three nights of hard work. It’s as if my own child is being born. Of course, teamwork is key to getting a proper result.”

The rebirth of tatara making

The tatara-based method of iron forging was the main source of iron supply until the end of the Edo period (1603-1886). However, as Japan opened up to the West during the Meiji era (1868-1912), newer, competing methods became widespread. These less demanding methods saw traditional tatara gradually slip into decline and ﬁnally go extinct by the late Taisho period (1912-1926). Tatara did see a short revival during World War II, thanks to military procurement, but it rapidly dwindled and was lost after the War ended. Meanwhile, supplies of tamahagane eventually ran dry, with sword makers across Japan forced to use old nails and tatara spare parts to continue their craft. Eventually, even those were exhausted as modern technology simply cannot reproduce the tatara effect. Finally, in 1977, the ancient method was reinstated by the Society for Preservation of Japanese Art Swords, for the purpose

of preserving the very necessary, age-old tradition of tamahagane as key to the art of crafting traditional Japanese swords. In rediscovering the tatara method, Master Kihara took very accurate measurements during his work, with support from a metallurgical research team who were interested in trying to reproduce tamahagane using modern science. The research revealed tremendous temperature changes in the furnace as the composition of gas changed, but ultimately the actual mechanism by which tamahagane was produced proved elusive to the scientists. Creating tamahagane relies on the instincts nurtured through training, long-term experience, spiritual strength and stamina– the true keys to tatara success. Master Kihara says, “I myself do not think that the process of tatara can be reproduced scientiﬁcally. However, knowledge is important, so I am collecting necessary data and carrying out scientiﬁc research.” He says physical, mental and spiritual strength are prerequisites for being a Murage, as your timing and precision for leading the motions of your assistants must be almost super-human, and that only comes from working hard to acquire the technical skills and instincts that have always set a true Murage apart as a god of metallurgy. More than just technical and leadership skills, a Murage himself needs ample physical, mental and spiritual strength – something that was taught early on to Master Kihara by his own teacher, Master Yoshizo Abe. Having done weight training and running 3km every morning until the age of 60, his doctor warned him that his harsh regime could lead to a heart attack. Of this, he said, “In winter, my body kera(steel)

gets cold when the wind blew snow at me. Sometimes it’s difﬁcult to breath. It’s tough! But I always try to strengthen my mind through these hardships so as not to be defeated under any conditions.” Presently there is a deputy shitage and eleven trainees under Master Kihara. He thinks hard about how to keep them interested in tatara work, as he wants them to enjoy what they are doing, and keep polishing their skills. He also maintains a close relationship with swordmakers who are the users of tamahagane through training programs supported by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. “Sincerity creates beautiful and splendid steel” is a phrase Master Kihara quotes from his early days working at Hitachi Metals, where he first learned to love iron, believing it captures the essence of tatara. “Great tatara demands not only a high level of technical skill, but also sincerity and a pure spirit,” says Master Kihara. Ultimately, behind the skills needed to create a tamahagane that can withstand the usage of 800 years, there is a constant effort needed to maintain a level of technology par excellence.

Proﬁle of Master Akira Kihara In 1953, he entered Yasuki Plant at Hitachi Metals Ltd., from where he was transferred to Torikami Branch Factory (present Torikami Mokutan-sen Plant). After working at the Metallurgical Laboratory on refining iron sands and making “charcoal pig iron” using rectangular blast furnace technology, he learned the tatara method of iron making under the late master and Murage Yoshizo Abe in 1977. He was certiﬁed as a “Cultural Conservation Techniques Holder” for tamahagane-making (tatarabuki) from the Ministry of Culture in 1986, and has held the title of “Murage” ever since. *His major honours include an official commendation for improvement of safety measures in iron sand collecting (Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry) *Recognition of outstanding skills as a “Contemporary Master Craftsman” (Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare) *Decorated with the Order of the Rising Sun (2007), and being invited to Akasaka Gyoen Garden Party by the Emperor and the Empress of Japan.

A Study of Japanese Cuisine vol.1

JAPANESE STYLE

BBQ

YAKINIKU Yakiniku is a type of cooking where various types and sections of meat are grilled over direct heat on a wire mesh, using a charcoal grill or a gas/electric grill that has been set in place in advance. In Japan, sushi or yakiniku restaurants are very often the venue of choice to eat out at gatherings of family or friends, where everybody wants to eat s o m e t hin g a little special. The approval rating of yakiniku is even higher among households with young children and teenagers, as well as groups where young men are the majority. Another point explaining yakiniku ’s popularity is the fact that the price range of dinner is in general cheaper at yakiniku restaurants than at sushi restaurants. For these

reasons, yakiniku has achieved the position as the “ No. 1 soul food ” of the Japanese populace. Yakiniku finds its origins in Korean style BBQ cooking. According to one story, yakiniku found its beginnings when people from the North Korean peninsula living in Japan immediately after World War II sold beef hearts cooked in their native cooking style as an alternative to beef on the black market. This original style of yakiniku cookery that so captured the hearts of the Japanese people then underwent various developments in Japan in the way that it is eaten and seasoned, giving a different dish to that found in Korea. Stylis tic features, such a s prepared raw ingredients cut beforehand into a size that is easily eaten, the option of choosing your preferred

Ideal Tips for Enjoying YAKINIKU

Written by a YAKINIKU Master

There are 2 important points to cooking delicious yakiniku. The first is of course, the quality of the ingredients. The second is the way of grilling the meat. Given that in the case of Japanese yakiniku, you have to grill it yourself; the main factor controlling the former point is your skill in cooking. The basics are simple. Don’t grill the meat too much. Imagine what you want the outcome of your cooking to look like. All yakiniku meat is different from steak in that it is thin. Just averting your gaze from the meat for a short time while grilling can result in it turning into a piece of charcoal. Nobody wants to eat that! For this reason, it’s no good to recklessly heap meat on to the grill mesh. Grill the ingredients that you want to eat a little at a time. It’s good to lightly roast the surface of the meat while enjoying the difference in the taste, softness and texture of the ingredients.

ingredients and then grilling them yourself, are characteristics of Japanese yakiniku. It also shows a wider variety in the sections of meat that are served. Beef is most commonly eaten; however, pork and chicken can also be added to the same wire mesh grill, and internal organs are also much favoured. The tendency in Japanese cooking to place importance on the actual flavour of the ingredients is reflected in yakiniku; marinading is often kept to a minimum. In many cases, yakiniku is eaten as a group. Sitting around the same fire of the grill, while poking at the grilled meat with chopsticks, allows the feeling of being at one with the group to ferment.

List of popular YAKINETA (prepared raw ingredients)

Karubi -Short RibAn established favourite with the Japanese as the King of Yakiniku. In most cases, it is served sliced with the bone removed. However, there are some instances in Korean-style cookery where the bone is retained. Most diners savour the sweet flavour of the fatty section.

Rosu -LoinThe Japanese name “Rosu” is derived from the fact that when roasted, it tastes good. As the name goes, in order to enjoy the flavour of the meat, you have to pay special attention to its state while grilling.

Gyutan -Beef TongueConnoisseurs agree that beef tongue is the first dish to be grilled when dining out in Japan. This is largely because the salt sprinkled on the meat as the cooking proceeds is likely to overpower the delicious flavour of the beef tongue, which has a subtle and lighter taste compared to other ingredients. Beef tongue is best served as a starter.

Aburiya あぶりや

Tel.6735-4862 60 Robertson Quay #01-03 The Quayside Mon-Sat 18:00-23:30 Sun & PH 17:30-22:30

Charcoal-grilled Yakiniku by the riverside This Japanese-owned restaurant sets traditional grill pots called Shichirin on their tables and use only the best quality white charcoal. This ensures a fire of high and steady temperature, which makes meats more juicy and tasty. They also care very much about all the ingredients, especially when selecting super brand meats like wagyu beef and Berkshire pork, as well as some organic vegetables or European rock salt. The breezy riverside location adds a lit tle charm to the dining experience. It’s quite a popular place at weekends, as many Japanese families or groups enjoy a relaxed meal.

Gyu-Kaku 牛角

US/AUS Wagyu jyo karubi -Prime Short Ribs $19.90 Beef Tenderloin + Foiegras Steak $16.90 Tiger Prawn $13.90 Lamb Ribeye $9.90 Spinach Salad $11.90

Chijmes Tel.6333-4001 30 Victoria St. #01-01/03 Chijmes

UE Square Tel.6733-4001 81A Clemenceau Ave. #01-18/19 UE Square Shopping Centre

Holland Village Tel.6466-4001 29 Lorong Mambong

Popular Yakiniku house from Japan With approximatey 800 outlets, Gy u - K a k u is o n e o f t h e m o s t f a m o u s Ya k i n i k u h o u s e s i n Japan. So it’s not surprising that many Japanese expats feel at ease dining at their 3 outlets in Singapore. The restaurant offers t y p i c a l “ Ya k i n e t a ”- p r e p a r e d r aw in gre di e nt s , f ro m Aussi e wagyu beef to Harami (Outside Skirt), the way they do in Japan. However, if you are not familiar with Yakiniku and have difficulty in deciding what to order, the special set would be a good option. It includes various

meats, your choice of salad, rice and d e s s e r t . A l l Gy u - K a k u r e s t a u r a nt s have a modern chic decor, and are equipped with smokeless grill-fitted tables.

Yakinikutei Ao-chan 焼肉亭あおちゃん

Wagyu Karubi -Short Rib$20.90/$29.90 Gyutan Shio -Beef Tongue$19.50/$27.50 Kaisen (for 2 to 3 person) -Ocean Seafood Platter$55 Yaki-shabu -Grilled Shabu Shabu$9.90(S)/ $13.90(L) Gyu-Kaku Special Pork Plate (3-4 pax, very big value plate) $59 Tel.6735-6457 100 Orchard Rd. #02-22/26 Concorde Hotel Mon-Fri 12:15-14:30 18:00-23:00 Sat, Sun & PH 15:00-22:30

The best quality Yakiniku meats One of the oldest Yakiniku restaurants in Singapore founded by a Japanese owner, it proudly offers high quality ingredients including the much - loved US beef Karubi, which comes from a precious 1% of the cow. They also have a good stock of real Japanese Kuroge Wagyu from Japan. As the import of this delicacy is temporarily suspended, the restaurant becomes a rare place to enjoy this special meat. The friendly atmosphere makes you feel like you’re in Japan, and the price is surprising affordable considering the quality – especially the Australian wagyu which is priced lower than at other restaurants.

US Beef Jyo Karubi -Prime Short Rib$19.30 Prime Tongue $16.80 Wagyu Stick Karubi $16.80 Tontoro Karubi -US Kurobuta Pork- $11.30 Deep Fried Garlic $5.30 UK -Raw Beef with Egg Yolk$14.80 21

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Japanese Recipes for Your Daily Table

HOME TREATS

Do you love Japanese food? Here are some popular home recipes that will never fail to delight family and friends.

鶏の照り焼き

‘Chicken Teriyaki’ ・Using a fork, make small holes on the chicken thigh skin (1). Heat a non-stick frying pan and add the chicken, cooking the skin side ﬁrst over medium heat. Turn it over when the skin becomes golden brown, and cook the other side for 3 minutes. (2)(3) If the fat from the skin is too greasy, dab it with a kitchen towel. Cook’s tip For Teriyaki, cook the chicken well ﬁrst before adding the sauce. If the meat is too raw, the sauce won't be absorbed.

・While cooking the chicken, prepare the sauce. Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk with a spoon.

Chicken in Teriyaki sauce is an evergreen favourite, as it goes well with rice. There are other ways of cooking ‒ like using gas/electric grills ‒ but I recommend this easier recipe at home, which needs only a frying pan. Serves 1 Ingredients ・one 300-350g boneless chicken thigh ・2 okra Sauce ・1&1/2 tbsp soy sauce ・1&1/2 tbsp Mirin (or sweet cooking wine) ・1&1/2 tbsp Japanese sake ・1&1/2 tsp white sugar

Recipe and Photos by Tadasuke Tomita

Tadasuke Tomita

- www.sirogohan.com -

His passion for cooking is so great that he quit his job at a big company to study at a culinary school, and became an apprentice at an authentic high end Japanese restaurant. Currently, he is working with a product development department of a Japanese processed food maker, while managing a personal website introducing traditional Japanese home cooking recipes. As his other hobby is photography, all the photos on his website are his own works.

・After both sides of the chicken are cooked well, pour the mixed sauce carefully over the meat (4). Once you pour the sauce, it will start to sizzle. (5) Once the sizzling dies down and the sauce becomes thicker, scoop it up with a small ladle and pour it over the chicken a few times. (6) Continue cooking over low heat until the sauce is almost reduced. (7) Cut the chicken into small bite sizes and serve with boiled okra (lady's ﬁnger) or seasoned vegetables. Cook’s tip The process of pouring the sauce is important, as it gives the chicken that mouthwatering glossy look.

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INANIWA UDON

Udon is a type of Japanese noodle, and Inaniwa is known as one of the best three, which boasts an impressive history dating all the way back to the 17th century. Uncompromising when it comes to taste, these noodles are prepared to a time-honoured secret recipe which is passed down from generation to generation. The soothing and chewy texture is enjoyable either cold or hot.

SAKE FROM AKITA

The important keys of success for sake brewing are rice, water and clean air. As Akita known as a rice country abundant with natural resources, it is also famous for its locally-brewed sakes. There is a huge variety of taste, so you can find one that suits your palate.

AKITA KOMACHI

Located in the north of Honshu Island, Akita Prefecture faces the Sea of Japan. The area is famous for its many unspoiled natural beauties, including the Chokaisan Mountain and Tazawa Lake, where there are a number of hot springs resorts. As Akitaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy remains dominated by traditional industries such as agriculture, fishing and forestry, it enjoys a reputation for rice faming, represented by a premium rice brand called Akita Komachi, and its sake breweries. In addition, its numerous seasonal festivals offer a glimpse of rural and traditional Japan.

While Akita Prefecture is the origin of the premium Akita Komachi rice, it has become so popular that it is grown all over Japan now. It characteristically has a hint of sweetness, and is ideal for making sushi.

Isetan (Singapore) Limited Tel: 6733 1111 www.isetan.com.sg More info about Akita, please visit "http://www.akitafan.com/en/index.html"

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