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Jan / Feb 2019 VOL.48 MCI(P) 007/08/2018
THE JAPANESE
Bathing Culture from Edo to Tokyo Sento
THE JAPAN BEYOND:
Hiroshima
Explore Shimane, Okayama and Hyogo
Party like the Japanese:
IZAKAYA
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BATHING CULTURE IN JAPAN & IMPRESSIVE IZAKAYA IN SINGAPORE
いい湯だな!日本の銭湯 進化するシンガポールの居酒屋事情! SPECIAL FEATURE
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Sensational Sento – Bathing culture in Tokyo – Interview with an official sento ambassador
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Why “WAttention”? WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA( 和 )”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! *Prices reflected in the magazine are exclusive of GST *All restaurants featured reserve the right to alter their respective promotional periods and prices
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暦 Koyomi Januar y
こよみを楽しむ
IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS
睦月
First Snow 初雪
Folding screens “First Snow”
There is a poem I like from the Edo period: "The Musashino Plain, where for lack of mountains, the moon must rise and set from behind the grasses." It evokes in me that time in the autumn when the night air is clear, and the moon seems closer than usual. I feel as though I'm missing something... when was it that cicadas turned the stage over to crickets? The motif I was thinking of painting is the seven grasses of autumn. Chrysanthemum, pampas grass, bush clover, Queen Anne’s lace, bellflower, eupatorium, and sedge. There is a fragrance these plants emit, and whenever I smell this autumn musk, I imagine an infusion of dried leaves and chrysanthemum petals creating a reddish brown tea to enrich the loam below. Not too many days after the photographers left, I looked once again at this painting and realized that I don’t need to paint only one of the subjects, I can have the enjoyment of both in the same
ALLAN WEST
painting! So I must apologize, the painting now has a silver moon.
Born in 1962 in the US, Allan West settled in Tokyo and eventually graduated with a Master of Fine Arts from Tokyo University of the Arts. You can visit his open studio in Yanaka, Tokyo. www.allanwest.jp
If you find yourself in Tokyo, and you have a moment to stop by my studio, you will be able to see where this new moon is placed.
text & artwork / Allan West, coordination / Mariko Takahashi, photo / Keiji Okazaki
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入浴の文化
Bathing A nice hot bath is universally enjoyed and communal bathing has been a cultural element in various times and places in history. People have enjoyed bathing together in Ancient Greece, the Roman Empire, the Ottoman Empire,from the Middle East to Scandinavia, from Britain to Russia and Japan and so on. Times and cultures are changing, but public bathing culture in Japan is still alive and kicking and sticking closely to some of its longer standing traditions. Nowadays in Japan, communal bathing is mainly divided into three categories: onsen, sento and super sento bath, the last being something in between the first two. Sento are an integral element of city life. We explored its history and its modern appeal in the Tokyo of today.
Teikoku-Yu©_stephaniemelanie_
Utagawa Toyokuni I "Women and an Infant Boy in a Public Bath House" 1799
Culture The History of Sento A lot of people from various cultures have felt that bathing cleans more than just their bodies; there is also a feeling of cleansing your mind and soul. This is no coincidence, since bathing rituals in various shapes are present in many religions — from Christian baptisms to ritual baths in the Ganges river. In Japan as well, the origins of bathing are both ritual and Religious coming from Buddhism practices, but water is also a common purifier in Shinto myths. In time, the idea of bathing spread with noblemen constructing private baths in their homes during the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The invention of “mushiburo” or “steam bath” in caves at the same time, and popularising communal bathing for the masses culminated in the vibrant sento culture of the Edo period. The first sento was recorded in 1591, just a year after Tokugawa Ieyasu who would become Shogun later entered the city of Edo (old Tokyo). Edo Sento Sento in the Edo period(1603-1868) spread so much that it’s apparent in many writings from the time that even the poorest people could afford to go at least once a day. Cleanliness became a great value of the society and it was noted and praised by many foreign visitors at the time who wrote travel diaries, stories, and reports on Edo. What some of the more puritanical visitors criticised in sento culture was the lack of segregation of genders in the bathing space. Very often the changing room and bathing room in Edo sento bath houses were
not clearly separated, merging in a single area. Some sento owners imposed different bathing hours for men and women, some declared men-only bath houses and rarely woman-only one, while others tried to separate female and male baths by a very low simple board partition. Even the Tokugawa Shogunate tried to regulate or outright outlaw the mixed bathing several times as customer interaction grew into fraternising that the Edo Bakufu government deemed immoral. Although it was very common and natural for men, women and children to bathe naked together at first, the changing services of the 'bath ladies' or 'yuna' brought the immoral element that the Tokugawa Shogunate and religious missionaries disliked. The services of 'yuna' were just sento related at first, helping with washing backs and fetching water. This job was later relegated to 'sansuke' later, which were exclusively young men. However, a custom emerged of closing sentos in the afternoon and admitting only certain customers who paid extra to be entertained by the 'bath ladies'. These women now changed into fancier clothes, played shamisen, and eventually retired to the second floor with customers. The Edo Bakufu first tried to limit the number of 'yuna' per onsen, but when they were unsuccessful they ended up completely banning 'yuna' in 1657 and many of them moved to the Yoshiwara red light district of the time. Sentos in the rich Yamanote area retained the second floor and used it for drinking tea, playing shogi and socializing, but the two-story structures eventually disappeared in the Meiji era. WAttention Singapore |
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From Edo Sento to Tokyo Sento Torii Kiyonaga
"Interior of a Bathhouse" 1787
The new and improved sento The Edo sento differs from sento today because of changes made during and after the Meiji period(1868-1912). The Edo sento was smaller, darker and steamier, but the rules and steps of cleaning yourself and the feeling of community and interacting in the common spaces stayed the same to this day. People with sento-related jobs like the bandai (receptionist) and the sansuke and yuna (male and female sento assistant, respectively) have disappeared today, but the variety of baths and convenience have increased. During the transition from Edo period to Meiji period, sentos lost their second floor common space and genders became strictly segregated, and that's is the sento of Tokyo today. The Tokyo sento compared to the Edo sento grew bigger, more spacious, with higher walls and ceilings and more open space. The partition between male and female baths grew taller, and windows were installed to actually let the steam out. The steam baths became a different type of bath offered along with the hot water baths, together with saunas, bubble baths, electricity baths, jacuzzi jets, silky water baths and so on. The bigger the sento the more options there are. Some sentos even have a 'rotenburo', an open air bath outside in the garden, something a lot of people associate more with the onsen bath houses. Of course, with the improvement of overall technology and general modernization, in the Taisho era sentos became tiled and thus easier
Mysteries of Sento
to clean, and with the new water system it became easier to fill the baths and heat the water. They simply and truthfully called them 'the improved bath'. During the Showa period showers started being installed in sentos and baths in people's private houses. In the 1960s in Tokyo there were as many as 2,687 sentos, but their popularity and the numbers of sentos decreased over the years as the private baths at home became more widespread and more convenient. At the time of writing this article it is estimated that the current number of sentos is between 600 and 700, and yet they sentos survive in the modern era because they still offer something more than just bathing — cleansing, relaxation and a sense of community. A sento offers a feeling at the end of the day that we are all only humans after all and we are together.
“THE FUROSHIKI - A Comprehensive Guide” 280 yen/JAPAN FUROSHIKI ASSOCIATION Available at TOKYO KARAKUSAYA, Morimoto building, 7-2, NihonbashiTomizawa-cho, Chuo, Tokyo, 103-0006
Q A
Why do Japanese people like the water temperature to be so hot? The temperature of the water at sento had been regulated by the metropolitan ordinance to not be lower than 42℃. This was revised in 2012, but still most of the sentos follow this guideline.
Q A
Why is it common to drink cold milk after having a bath in a sento? In the late 1950’s, a dairy products maker asked sentos to sell cold Coffee Milk because they had fridges in sentos, which was rare in Japan at that time.
Q A Q A
Teikoku-Yu©_stephaniemelanie_ 10
| WAttention Singapore
Can foreign visitors/tourists enter and use a sento? Yes. How often is the water at sento changed? And how? At least once a day, and for circulating baths at least once a week, as prescribed by the metropolitan ordinance.
Sento Keywords a BANDAI The space dividing the male bath . The person overlooking the male and female bath area from a high chair that site between. This person is works as a receptionist and cashier. In the past all sentos had a bandai person, but now it has been replaced by a reception desk at the entrance of the sentos. However, even nowadays small sentos with a bandai person remain, although they’re extremely rare. b TOMEOKE Tomeoke can have two meanings. Firstly a private oval oke bucket that you use to pour water on yourself in the sento. That water is for rinsing yourself after scrubbing your body. Secondly in the past, oke buckets that richer families would pay extra money to the sento to keep them aside only for their private use. c OKAYU This is the clean water used to rinse yourself after scrubbing, scooped up by the oke bucket. This was the last step before you could enter the sento bath.
d SANSUKE A male bathhouse assistant to both male and female sento-goers in charge of preparing buckets of rinsing water, scrubbing customers’ backs and taking care of the waiting list. Sansuke replaced ‘yuna’ girls who originally had this job, but after some time they also started giving sexual services and that prompted the authorities at the time to ban them. Sansuke were paid well and had a high position in the sento, previously having gone through responsibilities such as maintaining bath temperature. Today there are no sansuke in the sento. e ZAKUROGUCHI Zakuroguchi, meaning “pomegranate entrance”, is an entrance to the bath area at a typical Edo style sento. Actually, the sento that a lot of Japanese people know and believe to be traditional is slightly changed from the Meiji period. This entrance was very low in order to leave the least open space possible so that the heat of the water and the steam don’t escape. In the Meiji period the bath became open, the walls and ceilings became high and there were even windows to let the steam escape, hence the zakuroguchi disappeared. f NUKABUKURO Nukabukuro is a body scrubbing tool, with a similar purpose of a today’s loofah sponge. It is really a ‘bukuro’ or a bag filled with rice bran and it has exfoliating properties. In the past it was mostly used by women in
d
the sento. Nukabukuro are being sold even today, of course with some new designs. g TENUGUI Tenugui is a narrow and long Japanese cotton cloth mainly used as a towel, washcloth, or dishcloth, It can also be used as a decoration, as wrapping, and a headband etc. Tenugui always have some kind of design or pattern and new designs keep coming out, often featuring pop culture elements. There is a revival of buying and selling tenugui, as they also make very good souvenirs and gifts. h FUROSHIKI This versatile cloth can transform many things and it has been a convenient item in the life of every Japanese person since the Nara period. It has several sizes, from small to extra large and it can be made of various fabrics like silk, cotton, and polyester. Depending on how you tie it, it can become a great gift wrap, a sturdy bag, a backpack, a bento bag, or a bottle carrier. You can even transport a whole watermelon in a neatly tied furoshiki! But the ‘furo’ in ‘furoshiki’ stuck because one of its uses is carrying all your bathing supplies. Furoshiki have many designs and you can even wear them as accessories or use them as decoration. There are also various ways to tie them, from simpler to intricate ones. Above all, this magical shape shifting cloth is not only stylish and convenient, but also eco-friendly because it is reusable and it renders plastic bags unnecessary.
e
a c
f
g
Toyohara Kunichika
h b
"Naked bodies compared to irises in hot water, comparing hips to a snow laden willow in hot water." 1868
Q A
What is the off-peak time to visit a sento?
Q A
What are the health benefits of going to a sento?
Q A
Can people with tattoos enter a sento?
Q A
How long should we stay in the bath water (optimal duration)?
It depends on the sento. In general, they are less busy from 7 pm to 8:30 pm, which is usually dinner time, and around midnight.
Q
Is it common to have a mixed sento with both men and
A
No, not for sentos in Tokyo, but there are some super sentos where
women together? you can put swim wear on and go in a mixed bath.
Sento relaxes muscles, increases blood circulation, helps body weight loss and more. Yes. Sento don’t discriminate against people with tattoos, but the super sentos and onsens do. It depends on the temperature and the purpose. For example, it is thought that 10 minutes in a 42℃ bath would be good for relaxing your body from fatigue.
Teikoku-Yu©_stephaniemelanie_ WAttention Singapore |
11
Why I Love – an interview with © Jordy Meow
Stephanie Crohin Official Sento Ambassador
This is a love story of sorts, it truly is. Stephanie Crohin was invited by friends to experience a Japanese public bath or 'sento' one day, took the offer and was charmed by the effects the sento bath houses have on body and mind by providing wellness and feelings of community. Now Stephanie is an official 'sento ambassador', spreading sento culture, promoting not so well-known sento places, documenting the uniqueness and coziness of each one and publishing it all in a book.
Sento
How It All Began As many love stories on the silver screen go, Stephanie was not aware at first that she will would end up here where she is now. She first visited a sento place during her period as an exchange student in Japan and after her stay came to an end, Stephanie left Japan without knowing whether she would return. But she did and found herself still drawn to the sento culture. She loves every aspect of it, starting with the health benefits and the availability of these places spread around Tokyo. She estimates that there are roughly 560 sentos now in the Tokyo area, although that number is very hard to pinpoint, because they are closing down. That in itself was a big part of her motivation to spread the word about sento, both among Japanese people and visitors. Sento Anywhere And Everywhere In the past the sento was indispensable, but nowadays people's houses come with baths, so going out to the sento is becoming an ever more rare occurrence. However, there are still many reasons to go to a sento, with one of the biggest being that you can soak in a bath anywhere in the city. This is why Stephanie started the hashtag #dokodemosento, meaning “sento anywhere”, under which she posts photos of sentos on Instagram. Wherever you are, you can go to the nearest sento, buy or rent towels and toiletries at the reception, which are always quite cheap, relax and refresh and continue with your day. In a metropolis like Tokyo this is convenient as it would be really hard going back home just for a bath. Of course you can always bring your own towel and favourite cosmetics. Many frequent sentogoers pack their own sento-set. Sentos offer drinks and food that you can consume in the common spaces, sometimes with a garden too, and you can also use the automatic massage chairs that many sentos have. The combined expense of the entrance ticket (a flat fee of 460 yen at every sento), towel rental and a drink will not go above a 1000 yen at the most places. A good hot bath is the best cure for jetlag and muscle pains and heading straight for a sento from the airport after a flight is a life-hack that Stephanie shared with us. The Sento Inside And Out Another charm of the sento is that it is a place of community. Sentos are almost always small mom-and-pop businesses with owners who pour a lot of love in the sento and sento-goers are usually from that same area. It might seem counterintuitive to many, as bathing is seen as a private experience in the West, but at the sento it is good manners to say a simple ‘konnichiwa’ to the others. In the bath even Stephanie was embarrassed to be naked with others the first time she went to, a sento, but the feeling soon dissipated when she saw that nobody cared about that. She also loves how sentos look, especially from the inside. In her book she documents the different art inside 12
| WAttention Singapore
the baths:, such as mosaics, majolica tiles, and painted art etc. She wishes more people paid attention to this art as it is handmade and sometimes has deeper meaning. After the Tohoku earthquake some sentos in Tokyo ordered art depictions of Tohoku landscapes as a way to support and cheer for the region that was now struggling to rebuild. Sometimes sentos get creative and quirky like a sento in Kamata that had art featuring Godzilla, but sadly that sento recently closed down. But by far the most popular sento art depiction in the Kanto area is Mount Fuji. Stephanie says it all started with the art in a sento in Kanda, Tokyo, and people liked it so much that the fashion spread. The architecture of some sento buildings is beautiful as well, but even when the building does not look particularly fancy from the outside, Stephanie’s advice is not to judge a book by its cover. At the sento, inside is more important than outsides. Small businesses sometimes can’t afford to invest in both, so they always choose to focus on the interior. Sento For All Above all, a sento is a place that is accepting of everyone. You can find many generations in a single sento, and most sentos don't discriminate against people with tattoos. This fact might not be well known, but will surely come as great news to many people with tattoos. Stephanie has talked to many people who are regretting not trying a sento at the time of their visit to Japan as they believed that they wouldn't have been admitted because of their tattoos.
5 key points to enjoy your first visit to a sento ❶ Mental preparation: Don't be shy, in sento culture it's normal to be naked ❷ Manners and community: Greet the other people in the sento, be careful not to put your towel in the water and don't drip in the changing area ❸ Things to carry with you: Bring your favourite toiletries, you can also rent or buy them from the sento ❹ Art: Pay attention to the art inside the bathing area ❺ Relax: No need to hurry ; have a drink and enjoy the common space after your bath
Start with these three! Mikoku-Yu
©_stephaniemelanie_
A designer's sento in Sumida that adds modern Japanese design elements and a luxurious feel. Right in the heart of old Edo and from some parts of the sento TOKYO SKYTREE can be seen. 3-30-8, Ishiwara, Sumida, Tokyo 130-0011 TEL: 03-3623-1695 Open: 3.30pm - 2am, Closed on Mon, next day of holiday
Teikoku-Yu
This retro sento in Nippori can conjure up nostalgia with its art. 3-22-3, Higashi-Nippori, Arakawa, Tokyo 116-0014 TEL: 03-3891-4637 Open: 3pm-12mn Closed on Mon
©_stephaniemelanie_
Chiyo-No-Yu
Teikoku-Yu ©_stephaniemelanie_
For first-timers in a sento, Stephanie has a couple of words of advice; overcome your shyness, mind the sento rules and manners; but most importantly, enjoy the experience by taking in the art and spending time in the common spaces. For people trying to find a sento to go to, Stephanie advises simply typing the word 'sento' into a map app and it will give you a number of sentos around you. Or you can follow her Instagram and #dokodemosento hashtag for her personal recommendations and exclusive photos from inside the bathing area. No matter what you do, give sento a try and see for yourself the sento culture that Stephanie loves so much!
©_stephaniemelanie_
This sento in Mitaka has a retro feel, but also a lot of different baths and even open air baths in a garden. 2-4-31, Iguchi, Mitaka, Tokyo 181-0011 TEL: 0422-39-1010 Open: Mon. to Fri. 3.30pn-11.30pm Sat. Sun. Holiday 1pm-11.30pm Last entry: 11pm
Reborn Sento SCAI THE BATHHOUSE
A renovated old bathouse with over 200 years of history is reborn as a gallery that shows contemporary art and supports young artists as well established ones. It's conveniently located downtown and close to the Ueno area that is famous for its many museums and an art university. 6-1-23 Yanaka, Taito, Tokyo 110-0001 Tel: 03-3821-1144 info@scaithebathhouse.com www.scaithebathhouse.com
Stephanie Crohin Sento author, journalist/official sento ambassador since 2015. Sento news & daily life in Tokyo dokodemosento.com
_stephaniemelanie
”Sento Wa Chiisana Bijutsukan” (Sentos are small museums) Keibunsha-shobo This book offers a unique and exclusive peek into different sentos, with beautiful photographs and introductions of families who run them, sento-goers and artists who paint the sentos murals. The book currently only available in Japanese, but the photos themselves speak a universal language.
Photo by Norihiro Ueno. Courtesy of SCAI THE BATHHOUSE
HiTAKiBA
Open:12pm - 6pm Closed on Sun, Mon, & Holiday This retro Showa sento has been reborn as a gallery where you could enjoy an exhibition. It will be reopened as a cafe gallery in this fall. Check the website for more information. 2-19-8, Nezu, Bunkyo, Tokyo 113-0031 http://cirq-cirq-cirq.com/ Opens in time with exhibitions WAttention Singapore |
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THE JAPAN BEYOND
Hiroshima: Explore Shimane, Okayama and Hyogo
Hiroshima serves as a reminder of the horror of war, but more than anything, it is a symbol of the hope of peace, rebirth and rebuilding. Moreover, Hiroshima and the surrounding areas like Okayama, Hyogo and Shimane Prefecture have to offer so much more than that. History and culture have their roots in ancient times, with sacred shrines being places of worship for more than a millennium and some medieval castles still standing strong.
16-century pagoda which is actually a donation from Wakayama Prefecture. Today, this temple is one of the most scenic spiritual spots in Hiroshima. The rest of Japan and the world helped Hiroshima with various donations, even with trees for replanting, so you might be passing an old tree that is actually a 60-year-old gesture of the world’s solidarity. In 1946, from the scorched earth in Hiroshima, oleanders bloomed and camphor trees sprouted branches. This resilient city itself blossomed as a symbol of peace.
Stairways to heavenly views: Hiroshima
O n e M o re
Just a step from Hiroshima, the scenic and serene town of Onomichi overlooks the Seto Inland Sea, with great views from its many slopes and stairways. Onomichi can be a pilgrimage for both temple lovers and film buffs, since it has many well-preserved temples and it has been the backdrop for over 43 Japanese movies. Furthermore, many writers have stayed and written here. 60min by train from Hiroshima 14
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Ste p
TWO IMPORTANT SHRINES WORTHY OF WORSHIP
Japan Sea
Matsue Castle Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine
Hyogo Iwami Ginzan ken Okayama ken Shimane ken Himeji Castle Hiroshima ken Okayama Kurashiki Castle Itsukushima Onomichi Shrine Seto Inland Sea
Itsukushima Shrine: Hiroshima The Floating Shrine A giant red Torii gate that appears to be floating near the sacred island of Miyajima is one of the most iconic views of Japan. In fact, the whole Itsukushima shrine complex is built on pillars to seem as if it was floating during high tide. This UNESCO World Heritage site is nearly a thousand and a half old, and Miyajima island itself has been worshipped as a deity, so no wonder this place has a solemn and almost ethereal atmosphere. Believe it or not, no births or deaths are permitted on the holy island and there have been none for almost two centuries! Inside the Itsukushima shrine complex, the Main Shrine is dedicated to the three daughters of the Shinto god. Another attraction is the Noh theatre stage, the only one built on water. Noh is the oldest surviving form of theatre in the world and even today, there are performances in Itsukushima Shrine in a few times in a year. Approaching Miyajima and Itsukushima Shrine by first passing under the vermilion floating Torii is how the earliest worshippers would have reached the sacred site, and today you can still follow in their wake on a short boat ride. While there, take time to explore the many corridors and corners of the shrine complex that have been built over the years, as the shrine and its devotees continued to grow.
Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine: Shimane Where Gods Meet Izumo Taisha is one of the most venerated shinto shrines in Japan — magnificent, imposing and long-standing. It is one of the oldest shrines and currently the tallest Shinto place of worship. There are even legends that in the past it used to be double the size! For all these superlatives and much more, the Izumo Taisha alone is worth the visit to Shimane prefecture, just a couple of hours from Hiroshima.
Fall for sacred dances
Undeniably the oldest in Japan, this outstanding shrine is at least 13 centuries old, according to ancient records, and possibly even older. Renovated roughly every 60 years as is tradition, the Izumo Taisha rests among the tranquillity of nature, itself worshipping nature and borrowing a lot from it, from its timber to the massive shimenawa straw ropes. The serenity is occasionally pierced by solemn drums and flutes, an atmosphere befitting the sacredness of the shrine that plays a central role in Japan's creation myth. Be sure to visit Izumo Taisha, the meeting place of all the kami (gods) once a year, according to Shinto myths. A month of gods, and a month without gods in the rest of Japan. And a shrine worth a visit in any month of the year.
Iwami Ginzan (Ancient Silver Mine) in Shimane Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, this mine was an important producer of high-quality silver for four centuries. Tucked away in lush greenery, it has coexisted with nature because ever since it was opened, people have taken great care to preserve the forest around it. You can explore the mining tunnels inside and the mining towns that sprang up around it. ep O ne M or e St 70min by bus from Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine WAttention Singapore |
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THREE CASTLES (WHITE, BLACK AND GREEN) THE CROW, THE HERON AND THE TEA LEAF
The Black Elegance of Okayama Castle and Korakuen Garden The black Okayama Castle, nicknamed Ujo or 'Crow Castle', rises behind Korakuen Garden, one of the top three most beautiful gardens in all of Japan. The Crow Castle’s elegant, black walls ornamented with gold were reconstructed in 1966 after the structure was burned to the ground during WWII. However, two watch towers have survived in their original form which dates back to the beginning of the 17th century. After marvelling at this classic castle from the outside, you can enter and study the many exhibitions of historical artefacts. Visitors can also enjoy activities such as making traditional Bizen pottery and dressing up as a feudal lord or princess. Climbing to the top of the castle rewards you with a commanding view of Okayama. Come and see the black Crow Castle and immerse yourself in its history! When you’re finished exploring the castle, be sure to spend some time strolling through the 300-year-old Korakuen Garden. The grounds feature a number of scenic spots and tranquil teahouses where you can relax and soak in the views.
The White Heron Beauty: Himeji Castle in Hyogo Perched atop a hill, this White Heron Castle has been nicknamed so because of its blinding white exterior. One of only 12 original castles across Japan whose main keep have avoided destruction, Himeji Castle has had a number of close calls. In the Meiji period, when symbols of feudal Japan were being destroyed, Himeji Castle was sold and slated for a demolition that never happened; in WW2 a bomb falling nearby failed to explode, and it withstood the Hanshin earthquake of 1995. The castle is surrounded by lush nature that changes with the seasons. Initially constructed to hamper approaching enemies, the complex keep gives you time to enjoy the wonderful views as you wander towards the castle. The 400-year-old Himeji Castle is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, a national treasure and considered the most wellpreserved castle in Japan. It’s no wonder it is also the most visited castle in Japan.
The Green Legacy of Matsue Castle in Shimane Another original castle left in Japan, Matsue Castle and the small castle town of the same name are gems of unbroken history. The castle is surrounded by water-filled moats and intertwining canals. In fact, the whole city of Matsue borders lake Shinji, Nakaumi Lagoon and the Sea of Japan, hence earning the nicknames “City of Water” and “Venice of Japan”. With names like that, blue might be the first colour you imagine when trying to picture Matsue Castle in your mind. However, the main colour associated with this castle is actually green. Matsue is one of the top three major Japanese centres for tea ceremony and traditional sweets, along with Kyoto and Kanazawa. The little town consumes 5 times more green tea than the national average and they have been promoting tea culture for more then four centuries. The streets are dotted with traditional tea-houses, while the Matsue Castle itself is where the annual Grand Tea Ceremony is hosted. Enjoy their unique Fumai-style tea ceremony and take a serene gentle boat ride, to truly experience the City of Water and Green Tea.
Kurashiki – Preserved Historical Charm: Okayama Willow trees and white-walled warehouses line the Kurashiki River in the picturesque Kurashiki Bikan Historical area. This town has frozen in time the charm of Edo, Meiji and Taisho periods, retaining its authentic architecture. Kurashiki is home to many museums, one of the most renowned being Ohara Museum of Art. A popular activity is taking a scenic boat ride down the river. 20min by train from Okayama 16
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O ne M or e St
ep
Specialties of this Area
Both the sea and the land here yield delicious food, expertly enhanced by unique local recipes. Learn what to eat and even how to make it! Try your hand at traditions that were perfected early in Japan’s history by devoted craftsmen.
Food
Activity
Oysters: Hiroshima
Fruit Picking: Okayama
The people of Hiroshima have been perfecting oyster farming since about 450 years ago. And today they continue the tradition by producing about two third all of Japan's oysters. This popular seafood can be enjoyed raw and variety of flavours on Hiroshima Oyster Road – a string of shops on the coast of Seto Inland Sea.
Forget "farm to table", picking fruit and eating it on the spot is as fresh as it gets. Due to its mild climate, Okayama is home to high quality fragrant fruits like peaches, pears, strawberries and grapes, earning the nickname "Fruit Kingdom". There are various fruit picking tours to "pick" from, depending on the season.
Bara-Zushi (Scattered Sushi): Okayama Bara-zushi literally means “scattered sushi” and it is an Okayama specialty that can be described as “sushi salad”. Various fish and vegetables are mixed with rice to make a colourful and hearty dish. Bara-zushi is popular at festivals and celebrations.
Izumo Soba Noodle: Shimane The Izumo buckwheat flour noodles are among the top 3 best soba noodles in Japan. Here, they are eaten in the “warigo” style which is a stack of three lunch boxes with soup poured over the noodles instead of having to dip them.
A “best of the best” sake: Himeji Being the birthplace of "Yamada Nishiki", the best sake rice, Harima is a thriving sake-making town. In this area you can visit breweries and taste fresh sake. The “best of the best” sake would be sake made from “Yamada Nishiki” grown in Hyogo prefecture, where the best Yamada Nishiki comes from.
Traditional Crafts Japanese White Leather Craft: Himeji Japanese white leather craft is a traditional products with a long in history in Himeji. Because of its light weight and durability, it used to be applied to Japanese armor. Today, however, this handmade specialty of Himeji made by graining, embossing and painting is mostly used in decorative products.
Shimanami Kaido Cycling : Hiroshima The Shimanami Kaido is a scenic cycling route connecting Shikoku and Honshu islands, two of the four main Japanese islands. Along the route there are charming villages and several impressive bridges, so you can take your time and explore the surroundings at your own pace.
Zen experience at Shoshazan Engyoji Temple: Himeji This temple appeared in the movie “The Last Samurai”, but it has been always a famous spiritual spot. One of the 33 stops on the Kannon pilgrimage in Saikoku, the Shoshazan Engyoji Temple is over a millennium old. Here, you can do a temple-stay, have a zen-meditation lesson or try copying Buddhist sutras.
Adachi Museum of Art: The best Japanese Garden: Shimane The Adachi Museum of Art houses a complex of six exquisite Japanese gardens with tea houses. From a dry landscape garden and moss garden, to a pond garden and waterfall, these scenes are so breathtakingly beautiful that they have been called “living Japanese painting”. from Shin-Osaka Station
from Tokyo Station
To Himeji Station
To Himeji Station
To Okayama Station To Hiroshima Station
45 min 1hr 30 min
To Izumo Airport (Shimane)
3hr 03 min
To Okayama Station To Hiroshima Station
3hr 10 min 3hr 56 min
50 min To Izumo Airport (Shimane) Shinkansen
Sekishu Washi Paper Making: Shimane Sekishu Washi is a special type of handmade Japanese paper from Western Shimane. The thousand-yearold traditional method of creating this craft has been perfectly preserved, and it has been declared an Intangible Cultural Property.
29 min
1hr 25 min
Airplane
Himeji
www.himeji-kanko.jp.e.adl.hp.transer.com/
Okayama
www.okayama-japan.jp/en/
Hiroshima
visithiroshima.net/
Shimane
www.kankou-shimane.com/en/
Bizen Osafune Japanese Sword : Okayama One of the most famous sword-forging towns, Osafune, houses a Japanese sword museum with many katanas on display, as well as seasonal exhibitions that combine swords with anime and games. You can also observe the sword-making process as the masters hammer the heated blades.
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JAPAN
VOL.18 | LUNAR NEW YE AR GUIDE
TRAVEL
PERFECT SEASONAL MOMENTS
Beyond
Presented by
Kanazawa
Shirakawa
Nagano
Celebrate the new year in a rustic land Welcome the year of the boar and join JTB on their specially crafted tour to the central region of Japan! Be inspired by breathtaking views and learn more about the fascinating history and culture of the Japanese.
Shirakawago Minkaen Light Up 白川郷民家園ライトアップ
For a limited period of time each year, visitors from everywhere flock to this UNESCO world heritage site to enjoy the special illumination display in the snow. With the gassho-style roofs, rice fields and roads all covered in thick snow, the best place to take in this majestic view it is from the Tenshukaku Observatory.
Kusatsu Yubatake
Old Town Higashi Chaya District 東茶屋街
草津温泉 草津湯畑
This hot water field located in the heart of Kusatsu Onsen Town is recognised as Japan’s largest natural spring water producer, boasting an output of a whopping 32,300 litres per minute. After a long day of walking, soothe your aching feet by soaking in the foot baths at this spring source.
© Kanazawa City © JNTO
Arguably the most picturesque place in Kanazawa City, this tea district dates back to the Edo Period with many shops in the area existing for almost two centuries old. The streets and exterior architecture have been preserved in their original state; don’t forget to keep a lookout for actual geisha roaming the town!
© Suikotei
Old Sanada Residence 旧真田邸
Formerly the dwelling of the Sanada family who once ruled the Matsuhiro domain for many generations, it currently houses over 20,000 artefacts ranging from ceramics to armour and all sorts of national treasures rich in heritage. Just by beholding these interesting remnants from the past era, one can weave together the stories of the powerful family.
Miso Factory みそ蔵 Kenrokuen Garden 兼六園 Literally translated to “garden with six virtues”, Kenrokuen is regarded as one of Japan’s top three most beautiful gardens as well as an important symbol of Kanazawa City. These virtues include: seclusion, antiquity, spaciousness, human ingenuity, water and scenic views. Here, you can admire numerous elegant aquatic features, stunning bridges, refined teahouses and a variety of gorgeous flora. 18
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Have you ever wondered how miso, an essential ingredient in everyday Japanese cuisine, is made? As Japan’s biggest producers of soybeans, Nagano Prefecture is famous for its miso. Come peek into the traditional process of manufacturing miso―you may even get to taste some first-hand!
愛 知 県
VOL.26 | SIGHT-SEEING
Writer’s profi le: Michelle Kan When I say I love Japanese history and people ask me, “Which era? Edo Period? Meiji Period?”, I tend to disappoint them with the answer, “Oh, World War II.”
EXPLORE JAPAN’S PREFECTURE
NAGOYA CITY
Kishimen
Sansyu Asuke Yashiki Ancient Kendama
Mazesoba
Mazesoba Oimeshi Asuke Momiji
Asuke Streets
Gohei Mochi
Sakae
Mazesoba Oimeshi
NAGOYA – THE HUMBLE HIDDEN Aichi Prefecture GEM OF JAPAN 愛知県
I was once told by some Japanese friends that if there was any local cuisine in Japan that best suited the tastebuds of the Singaporeans, the Nagoya region would be the closest. I had the chance to visit this lovely city tucked away at the north central zone of Japan and was inspired by its simple yet uplifting gourmet. Of course, besides the food, there are also plenty of other attractions waiting to be explored. I started the day with a hearty bowl of Kishimen at Nagoya Station . These chewy flat noodles are served in a savoury and slightly sweet broth with a touch of sake seasoning, topped with kamaboko, boiled spinach, beancurd skin and bonito flakes. The best Kishimen in Nagoya (as recommended by the locals) can be found at the station and at Nagoya Castle. Reputed to be one of the best spots for autumn foliage in the area, I headed over to 20
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the quaint valley of Kōrankei to do some momijigari (紅葉狩り, viewing of autumn leaves). There is an interesting open-air museum called the Sanshu Asuke Yashiki where you can peer into the lives of the Japanese folk from the olden days. Check out these ancient Kendama toys ! While at Kōrankei, be sure to try the aromatic Gohei Mochi . Back in the city, do drop by the Oasis 21 complex located at Sakae Station. Nicknamed “Spaceship Aqua” due to its unique shape , it houses a number of retail shops. Finally, you do not want to leave Nagoya without indulging in Mazesoba from Menya Hanabi. As the creators and masters of the original Mazesoba of dry ramen , you can mop up the remaining sauce with oimeshi
Nagoya 名古屋
Korankei 香嵐渓
Chubu Centrair International Airport 中部国際空港 セントレア Narita International Airport Chubu Centrair International Airport
!
Airplane (one-way) 1 hr 15 mins ¥6,930 (S$83.80~) Tokyo Station
Nagoya Station
Shinkansen 1 hr 40 mins ¥11,090 (S$134.10~)
WA Seh :
Vol.
11
2017 4:47:30 PM
I know water problem is, she hasn’t had a bath the whole week!
Available in a variety of shapes and sizes, the term onsen (温泉) doesn’t just refer to hot springs all over Japan, but even extends to cover bathing facilities and traditional inns situated around one. While onsen use naturally hot water from geothermal sources, sento (銭湯 , indoor public bath houses) have baths filled with heated tap water instead.
T h e Re ally Use f ul Japan T ravel Guide Japa n ’s Su p e r S e n t o ! Besides the more traditional hot spring inns found in picturesque onsen towns, Japan is also home to numerous public bath houses known as sento. Usually located in neighbourhoods or suburbs, they have been decreasing in numbers in recent years as new residences now come built with a bathtub of their own. However, there are still plenty of places where you can plunge into hot waters and test out super sento, a modern version of old-school bath houses that have been upgraded to include facilities such as restaurants, cafes, relaxation zones, massage rooms and even manga corners. Some good places to get in hot water within Tokyo are Saya-noYudokoro (さやの湯処) and Ryusenji-no-Yu (竜泉寺の湯).
Use f u l p h rase s t o k n ow - O n se n/S e n t o
ba
su
MP 03:74:4 710
tei
EBUS di tSTOP ion
Besides basic bath house manners and knowing the different steps to taking a (very naked and very public) bath in Japan, why not learn some phrases that could help you out while there? Who knows, you might even strike up an interesting conversation with your tub neighbours and score an invite to hang out and drink ice-cold beer together after a long soak…
English
Standard Japanese
This is my first time to a onsen/sento
温泉・銭湯は初めてです。 (Onsen/Sento wa hajimete desu)
Do you have a~?
∼はありますか。(~ wa arimasu ka?)
Shampoo/Rinse
シャンプー・リンス。 (Shampoo/Rinsu)
Towel
タオル (Taoru)
Outdoor Bath
露天風呂 (Rotenburo)
Where is the male/female bath?
男湯・女湯はどっちですか。(Otoko-yu wa docchi desu ka? / Onna-yu wa docchi desu ka?)
Are tattoos OK?
タトゥーは大丈夫ですか。(Tattoo wa daijoubu desu ka?)
The water is too hot!
お湯が熱すぎるよ! (Oyu ga atsu sugi ru yo!)
This water isn’t hot enough
この温泉はぬるいですね。(Kono onsen wa nurui desu ne)
This feels great!
とても気持ちいいです。(Totemo kimochi ii desu)
That was a wonderful onsen/sento
いいお湯でした。 (Ii oyu deshita) Illustration credit: www.irasutoya.com & www.freepik.com
Experience the thrill of authentic
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Orchard Central #05-43/44, 181 Orchard Road Daily 11am – 1am |
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TonAmusement
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Quality
powder Snow
Editor’s Pick
Togakushi Ski Area
Winter A DV E N T U R E S Nagano
Enjoy a powder snow paradise to the fullest with the ski slopes of Togakushi, home to the legendary Togakushi Ninja. Skiers of all levels from beginners to experts will find a course suitable for them, but the unique “Ninja Slope” filled with ninja-themed
in
elements remains a favourite. 9am - 4.30pm (lift for 2 or 4 persons), 8.30am - 4.45pm (other lifts) from JR Nagano Station
60 min by bus
3682-3 Togakushi,
Nagano-shi
The mountainous regions of Nagano turn into a snowy landscape upon winter, offering picturesque sceneries, heart-warming cuisine and unique hands-on experiences for all. FOOD
Azumaya
CULTURE
Zenkoji Temple Main hall
This age-old Buddhist temple has drawn generations of visitors for more than 1,400 years from all over the world. It is said that Japan’s oldest Buddhist statue is enshrined here―deemed an especially sacred asset, this “Secret Buddha” is kept away from the eyes of the public. Zenkoji Temple The temple grounds can be viewed 15 min by bus from JR Nagano Station, get
This hidden gem tucked away at an alley near Zenkoji Temple serves up exquisite threetiered Bento (弁当, lunch boxes) featuring a range of mouth-watering locally delights. Indulge in a luxurious dining experience without burning a hole in your pocket! Lunch 11am - 2pm, Dinner 5pm - 10pm Closed Sun
5-min walk from Zenkoji Temple
104
491 Motoyoshi-cho, Nagano, Nagano-shi
Galerie Ren
10am - 5pm Closed Tue
ACTIVITY
Daikanjin Temple
Seson-in Shakado Temple Daihongan Temple
Galerie Ren
Higashi-machi, Nagano-shi
off at Zenkoji Daimon bus stop and walk another 5 min
Town
ⒸZenkoji Temple
ZEnkoji temple
all day.
Explore the
Build your original kaleidoscope at this stylish handicraft workshop affiliated with Byakurenbō Temple. Choose from their wide selection of adorable little ornaments in all sorts of shapes and colours and simply insert them into a clear tube. Look through the eyepiece and admire by your very own masterpiece!
Kaleidoscope-making experience 2,160 yen (including materials)
JR Nagano Station, get off at Zenkoji Daimon bus stop and walk another 4 min
15 min by bus from
465 Motoyoshi-cho, Nagano-shi
Yawataya Isogoro Main Shop Azumaya Patio Daimon Kuraniwa
10min on foot
↓ Nagano station
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e k i 乾 L y t Par e s e 杯 n a p a J e h T Ain’t no party like a Japanese drinking party; after all, this is a culture that has been known for knocking back drinks as far back as the 3rd century. Today, alcohol remains an important and accepted part of the Japanese lifestyle, from social and business drinking to religious rites and traditional customs.
Drink like a true local !
There is no doubt that beer is the king of Japanese drinks, drank on a grand scale by both men and women around the country. Despite the rise in microbreweries that produce jibiru (地ビール, local craft beers) and ales, big breweries such as Asahi and Sapporo still dominate the market. Another popular drink amongst women is chuhai (酎ハイ), made with shōchū and 24
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carbonated soda and lemon; modern variations have seen the chuhai being made with flavours including yuzu, peach and strawberry. From bars and pubs to izakaya, Japanese have surprisingly easy access to alcoholic beverages, so they can indulge in hashigozake (梯子酒, pub crawl) and fall back on 24-hour convenience stores when those close.
乾
Origins of the Izakaya The word Izakaya is a compound word made up of iru ( 居る, to stay) and sakaya ( 酒屋, sake shop). By definition, izakaya originated from sake stores that permitted customers to sit on their premises to drink. Often likened to a Japanese tavern, the modern izakaya usually has an intimidatingly large food/snack menu and a wide variety of drinks. Some of the most popular items to order are boiled and salted edamame (枝豆, soybean pods), karaage ( 唐揚げ, bite-size fried chicken) and yakitori ( 焼き鳥, grilled skewers).
What is a Japanese Nomikai? A nomikai ( 飲み会), otherwise known as a drinking party, is a curious phenomenon distinct to the Japanese culture. Usually held in restaurants or izakaya, it is a part of the culture of most places of employment; employees are expected to participate, during which bonding between co-workers and with bosses are encouraged. Aside from the year-end bōnenkai ( 忘年会, forget the year party), most nomikai normally involve workers in one section or department of the workplace. In the case of the bōnenkai, everyone in the entire company may be present. In large companies, however, separate bōnenkais are often the norm for each department. Most drinking is done from small glasses decanted from cans or bottles, and it is common for people to pour each other drinks. At nomikai, it is widely accepted for employees to get drunk and anything said or done during those circumstances are ignored or forgiven when they return to the workplace. WAttention Singapore |
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One of the most casual places serving both alcoholic drinks alongside inexpensive, small-plate dishes, izakaya are great for hanging out with friends and colleagues after a hard day’s work. Depending on the izakaya, diners are seated at low tables or even tatami mats. Traditional izakaya sometimes feature retro decor with bright red lanterns and menu items handwritten
on wooden plaques hung up on the walls, while many modern ones are upping the ante with touch-screen menus and inventive cocktails. Often, izakaya offer all-you-can-drink and all-you-can-eat plans for set times, affordably priced to attract big groups. For the uninitiated, check out our list of curated izakaya where you’re guaranteed an unforgettable night out!
Tuck into a seafood spread until no other
Izakaya Lingo & terms: とりあえずビール (Toriaezu bi-ru)
Before anything else, beer. The first phrase used when you sit down at an izakaya and someone comes to take your order.
ベロベロ (Bero bero)
One of several onomatopoeic phrases used to describe being wasted. Others include ‘Hero Hero’, ‘Guden Guden’ and ‘Gero Gero’.
合コン (Gou-kon)
Short for Goudou Compa (合同コ
ンパ). Goudou means ‘a group’.
Compa means company (as in time spent together). Mashed together and shortened, you get Goukon, a gathering, generally of uni students, who meet to find a partner.
一気飲み (Ikki Nomi)
To down a drink in one go.
しめ (Shime)
The last meal of a night out. Carb-heavy meals like ramen are most common.
割り勘 (Wari-kan) To split a bill.
ひもの屋
Himonoya
居酒屋でのお楽しみは ?
What to EXPECT at an IZAKAYA?
For those of you who enjoy savouring the bounties of the ocean while sipping a drink, look no further. This specialty izakaya serves himono (干物), or sun-dried fish — Served piping hot, the fish are juicy, packed full of flavour and natural goodness. Alongside regular menu items such as fresh sashimi as well as cooked dishes, they are constantly bringing in seasonal fish so customers can sample the best that Japan has to offer. The store also prides itself on its extensive sake menu, which includes exquisite seasonal sake that are both rare and tasty. The place is also perfect for cosy gatherings in its private rooms and can even host large parties for up to 60 people on its premises. This year-end, make Himonoya your choice for office get-togethers or family dinners, where you can feast to your heart’s contents and toast all your troubles away!
PROMOTION Kaioh Course
Bluefin tuna + Sea urchin + Wagyu Kaioh Course + Free flow drink (150 mins)
$150 →$130
*Valid till End of Dec. *Reservation at least 1 day in advance is required for party promotion. *Promotion will not be valid for reservation made on the day. *Important notice from the restaurant: Only diners who comply to the free-flow drinks rules will be served the free-flow drink plan for parry course.
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MENU Ryoshi Course + Free flow drink (90 mins).........................$7 5 *1 hour extension with $10 top up.
Sashimi + Crab Hot Pot Course + Free flow drink (150 mins) .......................................................................................... $100
Robertson Walk # 02-14 , 11 Unity Street | ☎ 6235 -9110 Daily 6pm - 12mn, Sat, Sun & PH 10am - 7pm singaporehimonoya.com singaporehimonoya
三代目 文治 ゲンピン
Guenpin Fugu & Snow Crab Japanese Restaurant
Feast on fugu and snow crab this festive season
Sandaime Bunji
An unforgettable night with Tohoku cuisine Say kanpai to a table full of authentic Tohoku dishes such as aged Sendai beef tongue and katsuo tataki (カツオタ タキ, bonito fish seared lightly on the outside). Other noteworthy dishes include home made satsuma age (薩 摩揚げ), a type of fried fish cake and steaming hot shiogama oden (塩釜おで ん),one of the famous local food. Customers can book private rooms or terrace seats and welcome the new year with a bang!
PROMOTION
The only fugu (フグ, pufferfish) and snow crab specialist in Singapore, this is where you can try the rare Tiger Puffer known for its glistening meat and delicate yet springy texture. For those who prefer crab, you’ll be happy to note that the snow crab served here are juicy and extremely tender. Reserve at least two days ahead to get $10 off course menu!
*$10 off all course menu
with advanced reservations at least two days ahead of visit. *Valid till 31 January
MENU 5 Dish Fugu Course .......................... $7 8→ $68
MENU Roast Beef Course (8 dishes) ............................................$30 Grilled Beef Tongue Course (9 dishes) .......................$50 *Top up $30 for all-you-can-drink buffet (120 mins)
☎ 6333 -1516| Milennia Walk # 01-14 /15, 9 Raffles Boulevard Mon-Sat 11.30am - 3pm, 5pm - 11pm Sun & PH 11.30am - 3pm, 5pm - 9pm SandaimeBunji
Savour sumptuous seafood by the riverside This popular izakaya doesn’t just have pleasant al fresco seating facing the river. The restaurant serves dried fishes and also fresh seasonal fishes directly imported from Japan. The party menu consists of a good balance of classic Izakaya menu and fish dishes of Shindo. Ideal for year-end gatherings, customers can choose to add the all-you-candrink option and even order the extra large tuna sashimi for maximum visual impact!
8 Dish Fugu Course...........................$148→$138 5 Dish Fugu Kani Course & Snow Crab Hotpot Buffet.........$108→$98
☎ 6634 -2916 | 32 Maxwell Road # 01- 06 | Mon-Fri 12pm - 3pm (L.O. 2. 30pm), 6pm - 12mn (L.O. 10.30pm) Sat, Sun & PH 5pm - 12mn (L.O. 10 pm) guenpin.com.sg
JF Kanda Wadatsumi
Taste the freshness of Hokkaido’s best Craving seafood for lunch? Get your fix at this welcoming restaurant, which dishes up a generous Hokkaidon (北海丼) piled with sea urchin, scallops, salmon roe, salmon, Japanese sweet rolled omelette, negi toro (ネギトロ, minced raw tuna with green onions) and even plump, juicy crab meat at an incredibly affordable price!
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☎ 6221- 6264 | 50 Tras Street | Mon-Fri 12pm 2.30pm, Sat 6pm - 11pm, Closed on Sun & PH kandawadatsumi.sg
神田 わだつみ
居酒屋 新n道
Izakaya Shindo
6 Dish Fugu Course ............................$108→$98
Hokkaidon...................................................................................... $24 Wadatsumi Tabe Osame Course ....................................$98 *Includes glass of beer/soft drink
PROMOTION MENU Kampai Course ............. $70 (free flow drinks 90 mins)
Kampai Course $70+$10 (free flow drinks 150 mins)
Tairyo Course $100 →$90 (free flow drinks 150 mins)
*Valid till End of Dec. *Reservation at least 1 day in advance is required for party promotion.*Promotion will not be valid for reservation made on the day. *Important notice from the restaurant: Only diners who comply to the free-flow drinks rules will be served the free-flow drink plan for parry course.
☎ 6532- 0239 | 62 Boat Quay | Mon-Fri 11am - 2.30pm (L.O. 2pm), 6pm - 12mn (L.O. 10.30pm) Mon-Thu 5.30pm - 11pm (L.O. Food 10pm Drinks 10.30pm) Fri & Day before PH 5.30pm - 12mn (L.O. Food 11pm Drinks 11.30pm), Sat 5.30pm - 10pm (L.O. Food 9pm Drinks 9.30pm) Closed on Sun & PH | IzakayaShindo
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Reviewer
YW Lam
NHK WORLD-JAPAN offers free-to-view programs that introduce lesser known sights in Japan as well as informative educational shows. Aside from English, a total of eight other languages are available, making the programs accessible to people from all around the world.
Journeys in Japan
The Lost Pirates of the Seto Inland Sea Duration: 28 mins
Currently based in the Golden State of California, YW holds a double degree in Journalism and Public Relations and has been active as an editor/copywriter for three years. Her favourite destinations in Japan include Hakodate (Hokkaido), Kobe (Hyogo) and Kamikochi (Nagano).
An intriguing look into Japan’s maritime past You know a program is going to be a fascinating watch when it has a title containing the word ‘Pirates’. And this episode certainly delivers, as we’re shown the riveting yet lesser-known piece of histor y that took place on one of Japan’s major sea route between Hiroshima and Ehime Prefecture. Comprising 200 islands, the Geiyo Archipelago that sits between the inland sea has ser ved as a vital transportation route since ancient times. It came as a huge surprise to learn that many of the isles, including Noshima, were used as pirate’s lookouts and forts for battle. Despite planning the entire itinerar y of my family ’s Hiroshima trip in spring this year, I definitely had no clue that it was so close to pirate territor y!
Composed of three branches, the Murakami clan wore battle surcoats designating their positions.
Noshima was one of the islands used as lookout bases for passing ships.
Kohaya boats frequently used by the Murakami pirates are now used for annual boat races.
Watch this episode now!
Available till 16 Oct 2019
A visit to the Murakami Suigun Museum enlightens us even further about early-age pirates, who were engaged by regional feudal lords to ensure maritime safet y. Out of many artifacts and replicas displayed, a few stood out for me, including a pirate weapon known as horokudama, a t ype of intricately made bomb that I would not have expected from ancient times. It was also surprising to learn how intelligent these warriors were, engaging in trade that resulted in their prosperit y. What I found most interesting about this program was how it explored the lives of pirates outside of battle. Contrar y to their usually violent image, they lived fairly normal lives as fishermen and found smar t ways to cook their catch. As a descendant of Murakami pirates poetically describes, they were not so much pirates as they were “samurai of the sea”, and I found it sad to learn how they struggled to sur vive and eventually disappeared. Catch this program to walk in the footsteps of the lost pirates of the Seto Inland Sea and find out what has become of the Geiyo Islands today!
Trails to Tsukiji SEA URCHIN
Duration: 28 mins
The unbelievable “umami” of uni If you’re a fan of sea urchin, or uni (ウニ), like me, you will know that this creamy treat provides a flavour bomb unlike any other. But besides its delicious taste, what else do we know about this spiny sea creature? As our host stops by Tsukiji Market (which has since moved to Toyosu Market), we get to discover what makes a tasty uni and go behind the scenes to see how they grow, what they eat and how they are caught in the wild. As always, Japan’s penchant for nurturing the best produce is reflected in their research and breeding of uni. Being an avid consumer of this seafood, I was impressed to see how the experts went about caring for and harvesting quality sea urchin. For those of you who have always wondered where your yummy sea urchin comes from and how they are opened and processed before they end up on your plate, you cannot miss out on this informative episode! 28
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Uni that feed on kelp are said to be sweeter and tastier than most!
Watch this episode now!
Available till 7 Nov 2019 For more information, go to
EVENT & INFORMATION | JAN & FEB 2019
FIND OUT WHAT'S HAPPENING IN JAPAN & SINGAPORE
SINGAPORE 5 Jan Mochitsuki Party Try your hand at the annual Japanese custom of pounding rice to make mochi ( , rice cakes). Made by placing steamed rice in a large usu (碓 , mortar), participants take turn to swing a wooden mallet, or kine (杵), to hit the rice while another turns the rice on the mallet’s upswings. JAS Atrium (1F) JAS members only Mochi pounding tickets available from JAS Front Office (1F) from 7 Dec’18
SG: 31 Dec’18 – 1 Jan’19 Star Island Singapore
Countdown to 2019 at this fireworks musical extravaganza like no other! An hour-long show segmented into six chapters, audience can expect features such as 3D surround sound, lights, world-class performance acts and projection mapping coupled with sensational fireworks brought in specially from Japan. This is one event you definitely won’t want to miss. The Float @ Marina Bay Tickets from $38 star-island.sg avex.asia
JAPAN
11 – 20 Jan Furusato Festival Tokyo Can’t decide which festivities to attend in Japan, why not try them all? The Furusato Matsuri Tokyo promises to deliver unique entertainment and the best local delicacies from Hokkaido to Okinawa, with more than 100 varieties of beverages including regional craft beers. Tokyo Dome Tickets from 1,000 yen tokyo-dome.co.jp/furusato
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15 – 16 Feb Chingay Parade 2019 Be dazzled by vibrant floats and spectacular costumes at the 47th edition of this uniquely Singapore Lunar New Year Tradition. This year’s theme is Dreams Funtasia, so keep an eye out for the Japan Association, who will be presenting Japanese culture with originality and unity. F1 Pit Building Tickets from $28.50 for 1 day pass chingay.org.sg
27 – 28 Jan Yukigassan in Gunma Join the snow battle of your life at this interactive team snowball fighting competition! Originating in Hokkaido, this sport is a cross between dodgeball and capture the flag during which two teams hail snowballs at each other and grab the opponent’s flag to win. Minakami Town, Gunma Prefecture sg.emb-japan.go.jp/JCC/related_jtb_ yukigassen2019_20180829.pdf
31 Jan – 11 Feb Sapporo Snow Festival Held over a week yearly in winter, this is where you can take in the stunning sight of huge ice sculptures including famous sights from all over the world. Enjoy the view of the sculptures illuminated at night while sampling local delicacies from food stands. Odori Site, Susukino Site & Tsu Dome Site, Sapporo City snowfes.com/english
An ethereal underwater world waiting to be discovered Where marine creatures meet lights, music and state-of-the-art performance techniques, The Entertainment Aquarium is quickly accessible from central Tokyo, conveniently located in Shinagawa Prince Hotel and just a short 14 minutes from Haneda Airport.
Where the magic begins...
Get ready for an exhilarating show featuring lovable dolphins performing to music alongside 360 stunning projection mapping and water curtains. The daily shows change seamlessly from day to night for a visit to remember.
Aside from the 11 zones to explore, Aqua Park houses a jaw-dropping 350 kinds and up to 20,000 underwater animals! Shows at the indoor Aqua Park are designed and themed to match the seasons of the year, making it a great attraction for all ages, rain or shine.
Vibrant entertainment that never ends
Admission Fee Adults (High school students or older)
Elementary/middle school students Children (4 years old or older)
For something laid back, visit the Jellyfish Ramble, a therapeutic display of floating jellyfish backlit by moody lighting and an accompanying soundtrack. Sit back, relax and watch fascinating while sipping on a drink from the park’s cafe bar. These spectrum of attractions open till 10pm, which is ideal for family or even a date!
1,200 yen 700 yen
*Attractions (2 types): 500 yen each (1 ride). visit our website for more details about the annual passport fee and other discount.
4-10-30 Takanawa, Minato-ku, Tokyo 108-8611 (within Shinagawa Prince Hotel) | â&#x2DC;&#x17D; +81-3-5421-1111 <Audio Guidance> 10:00am ~ 10:00pm, final admission is 1 hour before the end of operating hours. Operating hours are subject to change without prior notice. The details of the event may be changed or the event may be cancelled depending on the condition of the animals, weather, etc. www.aqua-park.jp/aqua/en Aqua Park Shinagawa aquapark_official Animal handling business: Yokohama Hakkeijima Inc., Maxell Aqua Park Shinagawa 4-10 -30 Takanawa, Minato-ku, Tokyo 108-8611 (Within Shinagawa Prince Hotel) Display 18 Tokyo-to Ten No. 004119 October 1, 2013 September 30, 2023 Ryo Nonoyama *The above information is based on December 2018 and subject to change.
2,200 yen
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