WAttention Australia Vol.10 by WAttention

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Spring 2019 VOL.10

Where Edo M e e t s To k y o

MYSTERIOUS TOKYO

EXPLORE THE UNIQUE VARIETY OF

B order ing t he super nat ural wor ld

NIIGATA

The Sea of Japan, savory food culture and nature

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VOL.10

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In Harmony with the Seasons Feature 1

Mysterious Tokyo Bordering the supernatural world

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Where Edo meets Tokyo

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Feature 2

Explore the unique variety of Niigata The Sea of Japan, savory food culture and nature

Why “WAttention”? WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA（和）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世界中の人々に「和」（WA）に注目（Attention）してほしいという願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

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本誌に関する日本国内でのお問い合わせ先和テンション株式会社 Tel: +81 3-6418-5701 Fax: +81 3-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com

暦 Koyomi September 9

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

T h e D o u b l e Ya n g F e a s t 重陽の饗応

Similarly to the chr ysanthemum, the chestnut also has high medicinal qualities, and had been valued on beliefs that it was a source of energy that balanced the body. text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

A festival for preser ving one’s health with chr ysanthemum and sake rice wine, and an occasion to pray for everlasting youth and longevit y. Originating in ancient China, the custom was introduced to Japan during the Heian period. As the old lunar calendar has come to be replaced by the solar calendar, the “double yang” has become the least familiar of the five key annual festivals in Japan. It falls on September 9, the time of year when the most important items for the festival - chr ysanthemum flowers and chestnuts - are dif ficult to obtain.

In Ancient China, the occasion had been obser ved as a sacred day of double yang, represented by the number nine, when it had been customar y to put silverberries in a bag and climb hills and mountains, drink chr ysanthemum wine, drive away evil spirits, and pray for long life. The custom was introduced to Japan during the Heian period as a court event, and has been passed down as an occasion when the nobilit y would purif y their bodies with the dewdrops from chr ysanthemum flowers and enjoy floating chr ysanthemum petals in their teas and wines. It also came to be

celebrated as a holiday for the warrior class during the Edo era. In the old calendar, this period is the time for har vesting the crops of the fields and paddies. Among the common people, who could not af ford the rare and expensive chr ysanthemums and instead ate chestnuts, the event was called the “chestnut festival”.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on ﬁndings to apply them to modern lifestyles. Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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Mysterious Tokyo Bordering the supernatural world

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One Hundred Ghost Stories in a Haunted House Katsushika Hokusai 1790

Tokyo: A city of two worlds

While Tokyo is often thought of as a modern metropolis, a step beyond the glistening skyscrapers and a wander down the winding side streets will reveal a pathway to a diﬀerent side of the city. Tokyo is home to thousands of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, each with its own unique history, story, and feel. Visiting these places will transport the curious traveler to the supernatural side of Tokyo.

here are t wo Buddhis t concept s cent ral understanding the mysterious nature of Tokyo; shigan, literally meaning “this shore,” and higan, meaning “that shore.” Simply put, shigan refers to the world we know, and higan is the place humans go when their time is up. While the majority of Japanese people are not religious, both Buddhism and Shintoism are deeply ingrained into Japanese culture, and so many Japanese traditions consist of the relationship between shigan and higan. For example, it’s common practice in Japan to pray at temples, and visit the graves of one’s ancestors, both ac ts considered to help one’s journey across the river that divides the higan from the shigan. Along with the traditions born from these concepts, there are also many legends of mysterious creatures that cross between them, such as the yokai and the yurei. Despite the enthusiasm of both foreign and Japanese creatives, Tokyo’s supernatural side remains relatively unknown. So for the curious travelers out there — be brave. We dare you to step of f the beaten track and explore the origins of Japanese ghost stories in temples and buildings where yokai and yurei lurk.

Scene from a Ghost Story: The Okazaki Cat Demon Utagawa Kuniyoshi 1850 WAttention Australia |

The things that go bump in Japan’s nights

With the Obon holiday honoring ancestral spirits in mid-August, summer is the season of ghost stories in Japan. To get into the spirit of the season, WAttention sat down with Hiroko Yoda and Matt Alt, authors of ”Yokai Attack!: The Japanese Monster Survival Guide.” They gave us the run down on yokai, yurei and all the things that go bump in the night in Japan.

O-dokuro / Illustration by Tatsuya Morino 6

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okai Attack! is a wildly entertaining and educational illustrated guide to yokai. Yokai, as Hiroko and Matt enthusiastically explained, are a specifically Japanese supernatural being, and conceptually do not ﬁ t into the Western concepts of ghosts, demons or monsters. Different from t h e h ove r ing t ransluce n t g h o s t s in We s te r n culture, there’s no universal agreement as to what yokai look like. There are yokai who look like animals, some who look like humans, and others who look like objects, making the term far more ambiguous than any of its English translations. Matt points out that not all yokai are scary, and while creatures such as O-dokuro (a giant skeleton that devours humans) are pure nightmare fuel, yokai such as Akaname (literally a “bathtub licker”) seem rather comical in comparison. Yokai are also not necessarily ambitious, (they don’t always have a motive) and may just haunt someone because they feel like it. On top of these characteristics, yokai are deeply ingrained in Japanese histor y, literature, art and popular culture — therefore existing in the hearts and minds of all Japanese people. Hiroko and Matt believe that understanding yokai leads to an understanding of a vast number of Japanese cultural references, and an overall deeper understanding of Japanese culture. Overall, Yokai Attack! is a great read that ﬁrmly pulls you into the world of yokai and the supernatural side of Japan. Hiroko and Mat t exper tly craf t each yokai’s profile so that no reader is left with any questions except for “when can I see them?” While yokai may be hard to actually meet in the wild (not to mention potentially terrifying), Yokai Attack! introduces plenty of spots in Tokyo and other regions of Japan for the adventurous traveler to seek out and experience the origins of the legendary creatures. So venture out in the dark this summer, and spend your nights discovering Japan’s otherworldly yokai.

Akaname / Illustration by Tatsuya Morino ” Yo k a i A t t a c k ! T h e J a p a n e s e Monster Sur vival Guide” ( Tuttle Publishing, 2011) and ”Yurei Attack! The Japanese Ghost Survival Guide” (Tuttle Publishing, 2011) are factual and fun to read guides to traditional Japanese monsters, ghosts, and spooky culture in general. They are available online, at your favorite book retailer, and sold in Japanese stores that carry English-language titles, such as Kinokuniya Books.

Hiroko Yoda President of AltJapan Co., Ltd., a Tokyo-based company specializing in the localization of Japanese entertainment such as games, comics, and literature.

Matt Alt Co-founder of AltJapan Co., Ltd. and a co-host of the NHK World TV series Japanology Plus. WAttention Australia |

Tokyo Ghost Stories

If thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one thing Tokyoites love, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ghost stories. With the popularity of ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), rakugo and kabuki theater in the 1800s, kaidan (ghost stories), became a key part of popular culture across Japan, and the arts scene in Tokyo became a hub for sharing them.

espite their often chilling or gruesome nature,adaptations of kaidan were a hit with the masses due to the familiarity of the original stories amongst Japanese people. Because of this, kaidan are also a staple in the Japanese custom of nor yo (the idea of enjoying the sweltering summers by stimulating the five senses to cool dow n) , an d since t he day s of Edo, To k y o i t e s h a v e c e r t a i n l y h a d t h e coolest summers.

Looking at the above, it can be seen that most kaidan are stories of revenge or karmic retribution, but each have wildly different plots, characters and ways that they can be told, making t h e m a n e xc i t i n g w a y t o d i s c o v e r Japanese culture.

Kabuki theater is undeniably one of the greatest ways to experience kaidan. Many famous kaidan are set in Tokyo, and their kabuki adaptations have been entertaining audiences all over Japan for centuries. Rakugo is a more minimalistic style of theater compared to kabuki, and usually involves a single s tor y teller seated center-stage using a fan, a hand towel, and his voice to entertain the audience. One famous storyteller, Sanyutei Encho, shook Edo audiences with renditions of both traditional and original ghost stories. Many of Enchoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rakugo were also adapted into popular kabuki plays, and to this day are a staple of both rakugo and kabuki performances. The Ghost of the Murdered Wife Oiwa Utagawa Toyokuni 1812 The Ghost of Seigen Haunting Sakurahime Tsukioka Yoshitoshi 1889

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Superstitious Spots

It is well-known within kabuki and rakugo circles that actors performing kaidan should tread carefully. For example, actors and theater staﬀ preparing to perform one of the most famous ghost stories, Yotsuya Kaidan, visit two temples and a shrine to pray away any bad omens, with some even visiting the grave of the story’s main character, Oiwa. Kanda Myojin Shrine Remember Taira no Masakado? Well after his death he became a god of sorts, and this shrine is dedicated to him.

The Burial Mound of Taira no Masakado In 940 AD, a warlord named Taira no Masakado declared himself as the “new” emperor of Japan and was subsequently beheaded. His head was displayed at various places across Japan, and ominously brought misfortune to those near it.

The Tomb and Well of Okiku Despite being thought of as a ﬁctitious ﬁgure, Okiku from Bancho Sarayashiki has her own tomb and well in Tokyo. While the well remains a mystery, it has been the inspiration for many ukiyo-e, including Katsushika Hokusai’s famous 1831 print.

Younji Temple Along with Oiwa-Inari Tamiya Shrine, Younji Temple is dedicated to the famous yurei Oiwa.

fun with Japanese ghosts, giant monsters, ninjas Tokyo Trick Art Museum: Photographic and time travel, all under one roof! —Tokyo Trick Art Museum

rick art uses visual illusions, making the viewer feel like they are part of the artwork itself or tricking the mind and changing visitors’ perspective on the piece. Trick Art actually originated in Japan, making a visit to this place similar to a Mecca of illusion! Anyone can meet spiritual creatures and monsters from legends and tales in Tokyo Trick Art Museum! Located on the 4 th floor of DECKS Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall at Odaiba, the museum is separated into themed areas, such as the Edo period, ninja and Japanese ghosts; famous artwork; and brain training. The Edo area offers — as you might have guessed – illusions from the Edo period such as scenes of street life, or sitting outside a traditional cafe. More active visitors can also take pictures of themselves riding a tiger that comes out of a folding

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screen, or leaping high in the air to avoid a ninja trap. In the monster area, many traditional and famous Japanese monsters are also waiting to meet guests. For those of you not used to taking snapshots, the museum offers bilingual instructions on how to pose dramatically and the best angle to take the photo from. You can also download the museum’s own “TRICKAR” app on your smartphone and take videos and photos with AR technology to see your portrait come to life. It may be called a museum, but it’s a far cry from the average museum experience, making it a must for anyone visiting Odaiba! ❶ Yuki-Onna (Snow Woman) On a snowy day, the snow woman entered the farmhouse. Her breath alone is enough to freeze a person.

❷ Aka-Oni (Red Demon) in Japanese folklore This terrifying-looking red demon always invites people to drink sake with him. The red demon of Japanese legends may look frightening, but he’s gentle and has a sense of humor.

❸ Karasu Tengu (Japanese goblin)

This creature has a crow’s beak and wings, and dresses like a mountain priest. The karasu tengu has broken through the sliding door! Run! Hours: 11am-9pm Closed irregularly (Last admission 8:30pm) Admission: 600 JPY for children between 4 and 14, 1,000 JPY for adults Access: 2-min walk from Odaiba-kaihinkoen Station on the Yurikamome Line Address: 4F DECKS Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo Website: www.trickart.info/

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Where Edo M e e t s To k y o

ucked away amongst the skyscrapers of Nihonbashi and hidden below the Fukutoku Shrine, the coolest new way to travel back in time awaits. Suigian is an innovative new player in the Japanese culture tourism scene that invites you to venture down its shining staircase and discover Old Tokyo, or as it was known back then, Edo.

from the prestigious schools of these ar t forms. Guests can enjoy these per formances while having a meal and a drink or two in a stylish modern lounge space, making Suigian a modern and innovative way to experience traditional Japanese culture.

Hanayagiryu Hanayagi KIeayaka

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reated with the goal of of fering travelers a fresh taste of traditional Japanese culture during the 2019 Rugby World Cup and the Tokyo 2020 Games, Suigian is Japan’s first theater lounge; a cultural experience that aims to give visitors an authentic evening of t he Japanese per for ming ar t s , alongside the modern comforts of a bar and restaurant. At Suigian, guests can experience traditional Noh plays, comedic Kyogen plays and Japanese dance, all performed by professionals

Kanzeryu「Atsumori」Takeda Fumiyuki

Okuraryu Okura Yataro, Shigeyama Chuzaburo

Lounge,” a tribute to the legendar y restaurant that was the center of Nihonbashi hospit alit y culture throughout the Edo and Meiji periods. The Momokawa lounge oﬀers a slower rhythm than its daytime counterpart, with geinagon performers soothing the room with dance, song and shamisen music, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of Edo-era restaurant-inns.

Brimming with such rich history and

Konparuryu「Hagoromo」Konparu Norikazu

and cultural signif icance to the N i h o n b a s h i a r e a a n d To k y o , a n impressive feat for a new establishment in this modern era.

Owner of Suigian, Hidetomo Kimura,

in an interview with WAttention, said that Suigian aims to give travelers a place to “encounter the real Japan,” one f re e of “ temp orar y change s ” such as replicas and reimaginings that show the ever-changing nature of Japanese culture. Kimura has undoubtedly achieved this by allowing guests to literally come in contac t with real history. From the tableware to the décor, ever y par t of Suigian has a long his torical back ground. Essentially, you can watch a play by per for mer s f rom famous t heater schools founded over 500 years ago, drink out of an antique teacup that was highly likely used by 19th century luminaries such as Sakamoto Ryoma (1835-1867, one of the key figures in Japan’s modernization), and stretch your feet out on a rug woven by the Yoshijima family, the last artisans of the nabeshima dantsu rugs adored by many lords during the Edo period. In other words, every aspect of Suigian was carefully chosen for its historical

Suigian hosts up to three performances

a day, and pre-show synopses are available in English upon request in advance. Af ter each per formance, actors of ten stick around and chat with patrons to discuss and answer any questions they may have on the per formance or traditional theater in general. By night, Suigian draws inspira t ion f rom i t s lo c a t ion an d transforms into the “Momokawa

innovation, Suigian is best described as a “past-in-present ” experience, and is set to be the hottest new way to experience traditional Japanese culture in Tokyo. After all, what better way is there to experience “real Japan” than to travel back in time to Edo for a few hours?

SU IGI A N A 1-minute walk from Exit A6 of Mitsukoshimae Station on the Ginza Line and Hanzomon Line of the Tokyo Metro. Direct access from Coredo Muromachi 2 via underground walkway B1F, 2-5-10, Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan Hours: 11:00 to 23:30 (Last order 23:00) The Momokawa Lounge does not operate on Sundays or national holidays. Please check the detail opening hour on the schedule

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N gata

Explore the Unique Variety of

~ The Sea of Japan, Savory Food Culture and Nature ~

Just two hours away by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo lies Niigata-ken (Prefecture). Niigata is a serene region on the nor thwest coast of Japan’s main island, Honshu. This coastal prefecture is characterized by its unique coasts and snow y mountain tops and is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts thanks to its

varying geography and seasonal activities.

Niigata is a gateway to some of Japan’s most breathtaking views, such as the gigantic waves from the Sea of Japan crashing against the rug ged coastal clif fs or the peaceful picturesque Echigo Mountains. It's also a large producer of seafood, sake, and rice. Sado Island: Treasure of the Japan Sea Visitors to Niigata's coast always speak about what makes the Japan Sea so amazing – its endless series of waves exploding against the rugged cliffs of the coastline or the hauntingly beautiful sunsets that shimmer on its surface – but, one is not ﬁnished describing the wonders of the Japan Sea without mentioning its largest remote enclave, the ﬂoating island of Sado. Located only 50 kilometers off the coast of Niigata, Sado Island can be reached by a 2.5-hour ferry ride or a 1-hour hydrofoil boat ride.

The Sasagawa Nagare Coastline mountain and seaside coastal roads offer perfect places to admire Niigata’s natural landscape.

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Though Sado Island is considered to be one of the top 100 sea-bathing areas in Japan – thanks to its beaches, rocky shores, and refreshing clear waters – there is so much

Tarai-bune (Tub boat) rides at Ogi Port in Sado Island

The terraced rice ﬁelds of Hoshitoge in Autumn

more waiting to be explored. In fac t, it is also an amazing place to experience Japanese history and culture, such as riding on a traditional Tarai-bune (Tub boat) in the water, visiting and panning for gold at the Sado Kinzan Gold Mine and participating in Oni- daiko (Demon drums) drumming workshops at the Sado Island Taiko Center.

rice terraces can be found at Hoshitoge in Tokamachi-shi (city). There, you can gaze out at the landscape and take in the sublime view of the world as the surrounding terrain and sky above are mirrored in pools of water from each puzzle piece shaped paddy.

Niigata: Japan’s favorite rice cultivator

Enjoy diﬀerent varieties of sake tasting at Ponshukan sake museum (Inside JR Echigo Yuzawa station)

Rice is a staple of the Japanese diet. It is also used to make various products, such as the Japanese rice wine sake. Niigata, a large producer of traditional Japanese alcohol, is said to be home to the best rice in Japan. With the aid of the fertile soil of the Echigo Plains, the snow-melt from the mountains, the unique regional climate, and proximity to the Sea of Japan, Niigata grows some of the ﬁnest rice in the world. The production of rice is not only an incredibly tasty export for Niigata, but it is also what makes the prefecture so spectacularly beautiful. Deep in the mountains of Niigata, the rugged mountainside tansitions into a mesmerizing scene of endlessly cascading water-filled terraced rice ﬁelds (Tanada) along the fertile river. The most spectacular example of these

The dreamlike scenery of the Kayabuki No Sato Village in Oginoshima

The avenue of hazagi for hanging and drying harvested rice in Niigata-shi (city) ©Niigata Visitors & Convention Bureau WAttention Australia |

An incredible variety of salmon dishes at Idutsuya

Savoring the local seafood culture of Niigata The climate and marine ecosystem in Niigata provide it with a fantastic selection of seafood. Each area of the prefec ture serves up its own seafood specialties, and the locals take great pride in the culture of their traditional seafood cuisine. This rings especially true for dishes in Niigata’s many beach towns. The coastal town of Murakami is known as a “salmon town,” and many local shops proudly hang catches of salmon at their storefronts and from the ceilings within. Murakami’s most famous local specialty is Shiobiki-sake (w in d - dr ie d , fer men te d s alm on) . I t is prepared by gutting the salmon, ﬁlling it with salt to sit for several days, then washing the salt away. The salmon is hung from the tail to dry and ferment in the open-air for a month. As the fish ages, they are seasoned with special ingredients. Another place along Niigata’s coast known for great ocean delicacies is the town of 14

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Izumozaki. The appetizing aroma is especially s trong in Izumoz ak i w here loc als cook delectable hama-yaki (seafood grilled on skewers) from freshly caught seafood daily. Owners of local fish markets proudly make the popular dish kneeling by the intense ﬁres. Walking down the charming old streets of Izumozaki, the fresh hama-yaki tempts foodies from just about every store window. It is an easy treat to savor while exploring the beautiful, calm beach town and all its rich history.

Izumozaki is a nostalgic beach town

Get your ﬁll of great seafood at the Teradomari Fish Market Street Along the Teradomari Beach in Nagaoka-shi (cit y) is the Teradomari Fish Market Street (also known as Sakana no Ameyoko). This bustling area is filled to the brim with seafood stalls, shops, and restaurants. Try a variety of delicious bite-sized seafood snacks from the stalls, or visit restaurants above the market that oﬀer English menus. The white crab ramen is the most highly recommended meal in the area.

Learning all about sake at Asahi Shuzo Sake Brewery

The delicious fermented salmon or “shiobiki-sake” : The 1,100 hanging ﬁsh from the ceiling at the legendary Kikkawa Salmon Store in Murakami.