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Summer 2019-20 VOL.11

From Edo Castle to the Imperial Palace The History of the Heart of Tokyo Tomodachi Guide with Wander Compass

SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED: DAIKANYAMA, SENDAGAYA & OKU-SHIBUYA

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Feature 1

In Harmony with the Seasons

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From Edo Castle to the Imperial Palace

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The History of the Heart of Tokyo Start your day off right withthe Imperial Palace Run

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SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED: DAIKANYAMA, SENDAGAYA & OKU-SHIBUYA

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Wandering Around in Okushibu with the “TOMODACHI GUIDE”

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WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA（ 和 ）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention） してほしいという願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

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Imperial Palace, Tokyo 本誌に関する日本国内でのお問い合わせ先 和テンション株式会社 Tel: +81 3-6418-5701 Fax: +81 3-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com

暦 Koyomi January 1

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

お正月

Oshogatsu (the start of the New Year)

A custom used to be obser ved where families would make rounds of the homes of friends, taking along gifts wrapped with New Year greetings once ever y thing was done at home. New Year’s greetings are lucky items, and, similarly to otoshidama, money given to children as presents at New Year’s, they originate in mochi rice cakes, in which a deity has been believed to exist. text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

New Year’s in Japan starts with “house cleaning” after the middle of the previous December. With today’s calendar, this day falls on the 13th of December. This is when the soot that has been accumulated over the course of the year is tidied up and once the house becomes clean again, rice cakes and other sweets are put up in appreciation to the house itself, along with prayers for another safe year to come. People then busy themselves preparing New Year cards, shopping for New Year decorations, and planning osechi ryori, customary dishes that are served at the start of the New Year.

Osechi ryori is served from New Year’s

Eve through the first three days of the New Year. It comes from consideration for the women of the house, so they wouldn’t need to stand in a cold winter kitchen and cook for their families. It also originates in an intention to allow Kamagami, the deity of fire, to take a break. It was the only time of the year when women could be freed from the majority of their chores.

Once the New Year has arrived, the mochi rice cakes and vegetables that have been put up for the Gods are removed and zoni, soup with mochi, is prepared. This first fire to be lit in the New Year had originally been kindled with lucky flames received at a shrine, and the soup had

been made with the first batch of water pumped. Families would traditionally gather around the hearth where the deity of the house was believed to exist, and they would celebrate the New Year while enjoying the zoni. Times have since changed, and people no longer embrace the belief in the existence of the soul of the house, and zoni is prepared in a kitchen as is any other dish.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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From Edo Castle to the Imperial Palace The History of the Heart of Tokyo

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In the Edo shogunate(1603-1868) 1 Main Gate 2 Nijubashi Bridge 3 Fushimi Yagura (Turret) 4 SakashItamon Gate 5 Fujimi Yagura (Turret) 6 Kikyomon Gate 7 Hasuike-bori Moat 8 Fujimi Tamon 9 Nagayamon Gate 10 Shimo-dokan-nori Moat 11 Nishihanebashimon Gate 12 Inui-bori Moat 13 Inuimon Gate 14 Hanzo-bori Moat 15 Hanzomon Gate 16 Sakurada-bori Moat

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After the Meiji period (1868-) A Imperial Palace B Gosho (present emperor’s private palace) C Kyuchu Sanden (three shrines for all the past Emperors) D Fukiage Omiya Gosho (private palace of late Emperor Showa)

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A s Japan enters into a new era and welcomes a new emperor, the grounds around the Tokyo Imperial Palace will become much busier. That’s because for the foreseeable future Emperor Naruhito will be “commuting” to what should be his official residence as he and his father continue to swap residences, a process that’ll most likely take years. This will surely result in more traffic and an uptick in security around the center of Japan’s capital. But that’s hardly news. It’s actually how the area has been for the better part of its history.

Today the Tokyo Imperial Palace, known as Kokyo in Japanese, is a large estate in the Chiyoda-ku where the Japanese Emperor lives, performs his duties, and welcomes foreign dignitaries. It contains official residences, museums, administrative offices, and spacious gardens—only a small part of which are opened to the public except on special occasions like the emperor’s birthday. Despite its importance and a connection to one of the oldest royal families on the planet, most of the Imperial Palace is brand-new, going back no further than half a century to when it was on the remains of what was once Edo Castle.

People gathered to accompany a daimyo’s (feudal lord’s) procession outside of the main gate of the former Edo Castle (The Sakashitamon Gate)

Daimyo's (feudal lord's) procession in front of the Kikyomon Gate

Veiw of the Nijubashi Bridge from the modernized street in Meiji period

Nijubashi Bridge connects the main gate of the Imperial Palace

Map of Edo around 1840's

Great feudal lords have been occupying the area of what is today central Tokyo since at least the 12 th century when Edo Shigetsugu built his residence there. The Edo family was eventually wiped out, but their legacy lived on for centuries in the form of Edo Castle. Initially called Chiyoda Castle, the grand fortress was built on the site of Shigetsugu’s residence in 1457 by the engineering monk Dokan Ota. However, it wasn’t until Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa moved the center of his administration to Edo during the early 17 th century that the castle became a city within a city.

A total of 40,000 people worked on turning Edo Castle into the largest fortification of its time. By the time the construction was completed in 1636, Edo Castle had a perimeter of about 16 km, was surrounded by 12m-tall walls, had 20m-tall ramparts, and housed nearly 150,000 people, a number of palaces, shrines, and military installations. Most of the building materials and the workforce were supplied by feudal lords showing their support for the Tokugawa clan. The richest were expected to supply the castle with gigantic granite stones transported from far-away lands while everyone else provided the men for digging moats and reclaiming lands around the fortification, which slowly started to become an extension of the castle.

The Kikyo Yagura (Turret) of Edo Castle is seen from outside

During the 19 th century Meiji Restoration, Japan’s shogunate was abolished and the emperor was returned to power. To symbolize this, in 1868 the emperor left Kyoto’s Imperial Palace and moved to Edo Castle, which back then was also known as Tokei Castle and later on as the Imperial Castle. After a series of fires to the castle palaces in the late 1800s, the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, and WWII bombings, soon almost nothing remained of the original structure. So, in 1968 the Imperial Palace that we know today was constructed basically from nothing using modern technology.

BYLINE: Cezary Jan Strusiewicz

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Start your day off right with the Imperial Palace Run From professional athletes to casual sports enthusiasts, people love jogging around the Imperial Palace. The path around the palace is regarded by joggers as the place to run and is known as kokyo-ran, or the “Imperial Palace Run.” The Imperial Palace was originally the castle of the Tokugawa Shogunate during the Edo period, which then placed a moat around the castle. The 5km path along the moat is not broken up by any stoplights, making it a great place for joggers to run without interruptions.

What really makes the Imperial Palace Run so remarkable is all the wonderful sights you can see. There is greenery, the modern architecture of the city, historical buildings, and famous landmarks; such as the Kokyogaien National Gardens, the Nippon Budokan, The National Theatre, the National Diet Building, Sakuradamon, and the business district stretching from Yurakucho to Marunouchi leading to the Tokyo Station Marunouchi Station Building. Must-see places in Tokyo are everywhere you look, and then there is the area around the moat as well.

Many people jog before work

Sakuradamon Gate

Another great aspect of the Imperial Palace Run is the ransute, or “running stations.” Running stations are facilities found throughout the path offering a wide range of services, such as showers, lockers, and rentals for jogging wear and running shoes. You can just show up and still find everything you need for a good jog.

For example, just a 3-minute walk from the Hanzomon Station is the “JOGLIS” running station. With a spot right in front of the Imperial Palace, it boasts the largest number of lockers and showers of any station, with plenty of supplies and gear for rent. There is even a cafe space to relax in after you finish exercising. This makes JOGLIS the perfect facility for tourists to use when enjoying the Imperial Palace Run.

JOGLIS

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Going for a lap on the Imperial Palace Run when you visit Tokyo is a great way to enjoy the city, just make sure you follow this one rule – all joggers should run counter-clockwise along the path. It is also good to keep in mind that the path around the palace is not a designated jogging course.

Its primary function is for walking, with weekends being crowded with locals and tourists, so be courteous to others as you get your workout.

Unveiling the New National Stadium for TOKYO 2020 On November 2019, construction of the New National Stadium will be complete. This will be the main stadium for the Olympic and Paralympic Games Tokyo 2020, holding the opening and closing ceremonies and matches for events like Track & Field. With innovative designs from the renowned architect Kengo Kuma, the former stadium is being rebuilt to host Tokyo’s second Summer Olympics Games.

The New National Stadium has been generating buzz over its audacious wooden construction, using wood from all over Japan. Like viewing temples, shrines, or other Japanese wooden architecture, the stadium conjures up a sense of calm and balance with its surroundings. Inside the stadium, the visual theme for the seating area is “rays of sunlight trickling down through the leaves of a forest,” with a gradation of five earthy colors. To reduce construction costs, there will be no air conditioning for the seating areas, but large-scale eaves will be installed above to shade and draw in wind to cool audiences.

The circumference of the moat of the Imperial Palace

Nippon Budokan

Chiyoda City Tourist Information

National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo

The New Japan National Stadium AD_OMOTENASHI_RUNNING_TKY33.pdf 1 2019/08/14 Scheduled for completion in November 2019.16:30:38 Site Area: Approx.

113,000m2, Building Area: Approx. 72,400m2, Total Floor Area: Approx.

194,000m2, Height: Approx. 47.4m

Imperial Palace Running Tour

Chidorigafuchi Hanzomon St.

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Imperial Palace

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JOGLIS

Tokyo St.

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National Theatre

Sakuradamon Gate

OMOTENASHI runners will guide you on the Imperial Palace running tour!

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National Diet Building

OMOTENASHI Runner Associa�on www.kokyorun-navi.com

+813-3222-5543

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SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED: DAIKANYAMA, SENDAGAYA & OKU-SHIBUYA Follow in the footsteps of the locals Shibuya crossing is indeed mesmerizing and intimidating with its endless streams of people, the colorful billboards and lights, the blending of music and chatter that lasts well until the morning.

Yet, all this is just a small, super-concentrated part of the city. There are other areas of Shibuya that elude many visitors who don’t venture beyond the tried and tested.

Daikanyama Hillside Terrace

Daikanyama The new chic haven Vibrant and lively, yet laid back, the stylish Daikanyama area is a wellknown hangout for Tokyoites. Only a short walk from the dizzying Shibuya Crossing, getting lost in Daikanyama might be one of the most local Tokyoite things to do. Daikanyama is one of the parts of Tokyo that has an international spirit and is even known as the home of many embassies. People have been explaining Daikanyama’s vibe through comparisons like “Tokyo’s Little Brooklyn” or “Tokyo’s Little Europe”, because it embraces all international trends, from food to fashion. Here, you can see the city evolving, developing and changing, while staying true to its roots, protecting its cultural heritage and extending its traditions and crafts into modern businesses. Streets are calm, and sitting down to take a deep breath and enjoy the surroundings is a common theme.

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Kyu Asakura House

The building blocks of Daikanyama’s history

From the best water supply and gas system, to the first earthquake-

There are culturally significant properties in Daikanyama pointing

will come,” the famous saying goes, and people did exactly that.

to different eras, like the Sarugakuzuka Tombs, which are ancient burial mounds dating back to around 6-7th century, and the early 20 th century Kyu Asakura House from the Taisho Era (1912-1926).

Indeed, architectural landmarks which are inspired by the area also give a spirit to that area. What gave Daikanyama the chic and international vibe of today was actually the pioneering modern architecture of the times, in the form of a public dwelling complex known simply as “Daikanyama Apartments,” which served as one of 16 such “Doujunkai apartments”. Built in 1927 at the very beginning of the Showa era, these apartments were part of the post-Kantoearthquake reconstruction efforts.

proof technologies, no cost was spared to make them the most cutting edge, advanced architecture of the time. “Build it and they

A new wave of modernity Later, starting from the 1960s, the Asakura family gave part of their land to the architectural complex that made Daikanyama trendy and famous for the second time after the Doujunka apartments.

DAIKANYAMA HILLSIDE TERRACE, built in several stages up until 1990s, was designed by famous architect Fumihiko Maki and is one of the finest examples of modernist architecture.

Stepping into the 21st century, the Daikanyama reputation of always being stylish and international was cemented. In 2011, the bookstore complex “DAIKANYAMA TSUTAYA BOOKS” was opened just opposite Hillside Terrace, and it builds upon the architecture style of its predecessors. The most recent Daikanyama landmark is the LOG ROAD DAIKANYAMA complex, similar in its use of open space and with a relaxed and stylish atmosphere that has come to represent Daikanyama’s brand.

Kyu Asakura House An Important Cultural Property This elegant Japanese house with its gardens, as serene and tranquil as if they were deep in the mountains, is a rather peaceful spot to explore a traditional Japanese residence.

Built in the Taisho era (1919) for the politician Torajiro Asakura.

DAIKANYAMA HILLSIDE TERRACE Modern architecture explorations This complex has been built in several stages from the 1960s to 1990s. DAIKANYAMA HILLSIDE TERRACE is home to galleries, cafes, boutiques etc.

DAIKANYAMA TSUTAYA BOOKS A blend of coffee & culture This 3-building complex is heaven for bibliophiles and coffee fans.

It has a great selection of books in English and a myriad of cozy nooks where one can sip a drink, read and relax.

LOG ROAD DAIKANYAMA The newest shopping and dining complex A minimalistic wooden chic complex, home to the latest trends, both when it comes to stylish brands and cool cafes and restaurants.

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Sendagaya

SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED

The main stage for Tokyo 2020 Games

The Sendagaya area has mysteriously avoided attention up until now, despite being surrounded by Tokyo’s hippest and liveliest neighborhoods – Shinjuku, Shibuya and Harajuku. A 30-minute walk from Shibuya Station, weaving through the cute Harajuku backstreets along the way, will take you to Sendagaya. It’s also a 20-minute walk from Shinjuku, passing Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.

Peaceful, stylish, and relaxed, this area has a bit of everything that takes you off the beaten track and shows you a very different layer of the city.

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Shogi Kaikan Where professional players gather Home of the Japan Shogi Association, the Shogi Kaikan welcomes both fans of the game, and curious visitors who want to learn about it. Watch people play in the dojo, or pick up some amazing shogi souvenirs downstairs.

Sporty Sendagaya The new National Stadium is currently being built on the same spot where the old National Stadium (which was demolished in 2015) once stood.

Designed by the famous contemporary Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, this stadium is also continuing the streak of outstanding achievements in Japanese architecture, as the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium nearby, designed by Fumihiko

National Noh Theatre Showcasing Intangible Cultural Heritage Worth visiting for the architecture alone, this beautiful building houses a restaurant and a Noh exhibition that changes seasonally. You’ll also find a traditional Japanese garden within its courtyard.

Maki to resemble a samurai’s helmet (‘kabuto’), a beloved landmark for architecture enthusiasts.

After initial setbacks and unexpected changes to the architect and the design, it seems that the new stadium will be welcomed with excitement. Kengo Kuma’s aesthetics are deeply connected to traditional Japanese architecture, and his use of natural materials such as wood is meant to foster harmony with nature.

Exploring Sendagaya Sendagaya itself has a true Tokyo spirit in

Hatonomori Hachiman Shrine Discover Mt. Fuji in the middle of the city

that it can seamlessly blend many different

This beautiful shrine and temple with a mix of Shinto and Buddhism, is unique in that it houses a miniature Mt. Fuji (a mound built to represent and be worshiped as Mt. Fuji) and a shrine dedicated to shogi ( Japanese chess).

cultural aspects – its unbroken sport history, its residential calm, its cultural roots and its most modern offerings. Sendagaya’s streets hold small charming discoveries, like temples and shrines, parks, and cozy cafes and restaurants.

DAVID OTTO JUICE A squeeze of healthy trends They serve delicious cold pressed juices in a modern and open setting.

Their most popular ‘green genie’ juice combines healthy vegetables with lemon, apple and ginger.

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SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED

Shibuya’s Shoto A Place Built By Tea

In the western part of Shibuya lies the quiet little district of Shoto where you’ll find a variety of upscale houses, theaters, museums, and a lovely park with a pond in the middle. It may not exactly be bursting with excitement, but those who call Shoto home have come to appreciate the area’s historic charm and dignified sophistication, which go all the way back to the mid-19 th century.

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The history of Shoto district

Toguri Museum of Art specializes in porcelain art

The lands that make up Shoto today were originally part of a domain

A 15-minute walk from Shibuya Station, the Toguri Museum of Art

belonging to the Kishu-Tokugawa clan, which they later relinquished

specializes in porcelain art curated from the personal collection of

to the Nabeshima of Saga in 1876. This happened shortly after the

its founder, Tohru Toguri. Among their 7,000 pieces you will find an

Meiji Restoration which, among other things, abolished the warrior

impressive assortment of Japanese, Chinese, and Korean porcelain,

class, and with it, the stipend system that samurai came to rely on.

all accompanied by an English explanation, allowing everyone to

To help his retainers survive, the 11th head of the Nabeshima clan,

enjoy the museum.

Naohiro, imported Sayama green tea plants to modern-day Shoto and turned the area into sprawling tea fields, which down-on-their-

The Japanese exhibits are composed of the so called Imari or

luck samurai could work.

Nabeshima porcelain, which dates back to the Edo period (17th to 19 th century). The Chinese porcelain goes back a bit further. The oldest

Shoto saw a huge transformation after the 1923 Great Kanto

Chinese exhibits in Toguri are from the Majiayao culture (3100–2700

earthquake which laid waste to huge parts of Eastern Japan,

BC) of the Chinese Neolithic period. Interestingly, Korean porcelain

resulting in widespread devastation and nearly 150,000 deaths.

are also found in the museum’s collection. Legend goes that some

However, Shoto emerged from it largely unscathed and used

of the first Japanese porcelain were actually produced by a Korean

that opportunity to reinvent itself as the upscale residential

artist named Yi Sam-pyeong, who was brought over to Japan in the

neighborhood that it is today. Among its many residents was

16th century by Nabeshima Naoshige, from the same Nabeshima

Hidesaburo Ueno, whom you might remember because of the

clan that later took control of Shoto. Today, the museum’s Korean

dog statue Hachiko. Hachiko was Ueno’s dog that came to greet

porcelain includes pieces that go as far back as the Koryo dynasty

him at the train station whenever he finished work, and continued

(918-1392). All in all, Shoto is rich enough in history and art to satisfy

to do so for nine years after his master’s death. But that part of

any visitor to the district.

history belongs to Shibuya. What does Shoto have? Well, the Toguri Museum, for one.

BYLINE: Cezary Jan Strusiewicz

Bowl, decorated with a dragon among clouds and circles design in underglaze blue, overglaze enamels and gold. Imari ware. Edo period. Late 17th-early 18th century.

Dish, decorated with peony and wave design in underglaze blue and overglaze enamels. Nabeshima ware. Edo period.

Late 17th-early 18th century.

▼ Keep Reading Here

The Toguri Museum of Art is dedicated to beautiful porcelain, particularly Edo-era Japanese porcelain. The museum store offers a variety of souvenirs, books and so on.

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Wandering Around in Okushibu with the “TOMODACHI GUIDE” Typically, I’m not a huge fan of guided tours. They do provide an easy way to travel, but I always find myself wanting more. However, travelling solo can mean getting lost, language barriers and missing the hidden gems you didn’t know were there. This is where WANDER COMPASS comes in.

What is the “TOMODACHI GUIDE”?

WANDER COMPASS is a fresh take on guided tourism offering per-

can imagine, I was excited at the prospect of a free-form tour and de-

sonalized tours of Tokyo in English or Japanese. Different from other

cided to check out this hub myself.

tours, WANDER COMPASS aims to provide travellers with an experience that includes both the no-stress aspect of a guided tour and the

Arriving at the WANDER COMPASS hub, I was greeted by the

freedom of travelling on your own – essentially, a compass that you

enthusiastic staff and introduced to Timo, my Tomodachi Guide for

can wander with.

the day. Having spent a lot of time in Tokyo, I asked Timo to show me somewhere off the beaten track. We started off with a survey on

Your compass comes in the form of “TOMODACHI GUIDE”, or “friend

the in-store tablets so Timo could get a feel for my interests, the way

guides”, local Tokyoites helping you plan your perfect tour. Whether

I like to travel, and the things I might like to experience. She asked

you have a list of places you’d like to visit, or no idea at all, Tomoda-

about places I’ve already been and we flicked through a few books

chi Guides will whip up a plan using their extensive local knowledge

introducing lesser-known attractions. I was blown away by all the

and your personal interests to discover Tokyo. Aside from Tomoda-

options I had in front of me, so Timo asked what kind of places and

chi Guides, WANDER COMPASS also provides a number of services

things I enjoy in general. We narrowed the list down to coffee, bou-

including hotel booking, luggage storage and wi-fi router rental,

tiques and cityscapes, which took us to Okushibu.

making WANDER COMPASS the ultimate traveller ’s hub. As you 14

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Discover the inner Shibuya with the TOMODACHI GUIDE Okushibu is the local way of saying “Oku-Shibuya”, which translates to “Inner Shibuya”, and refers to the Kamiyamacho and Tomigaya districts of Shibuya. Timo led me past Shibuya 109 to the Bunkamura and declared that Okushibu pretty much starts there. We had only walked a few minutes, so I was surprised to find that I had never ventured past this point myself.

Showing me her map, Timo said we could start on a loop of the

COFFEE SUPREME

area, and stop or wander in any direction that took my fancy.

This was great.

While it ’s not on every travellers to-do list, I like to look at houses and cityscapes to get a feel for the places I visit. I had mentioned this, but was still surprised when Timo started the tour in the residential streets of Okushibu. Surrounded by an eclectic mixture of houses and apartments and people coming and going, I thoroughly enjoyed just strolling and chatting to Timo, and started to get a feel for Okushibu. I felt that Timo and I were becoming friends and that she was enjoying the tour almost as much as I was. The compact but stylish neighbourhood eventual-

RHYTHM_AND_BOOKS.

ly broke out into a small park, which I honestly would never have known was there. After a short break by the pond, we headed to the main street of Okushibu.

Distracted by all the diverse boutiques, I almost failed to notice the smell of coffee beans lingering on every street corner. While the main street is a boutique-lovers heaven, the side streets of Okushibu are dominated by cafés and bars. We checked out a few of these establishments, which I noted down for future trips, and I was even a little embarrassed that I, the self-proclaimed coffee lover, hadn’t discovered this collection of local and inter-

HABANA

national cafés myself.

I wasn’t tired and I didn’t feel rushed, yet I had explored a good chunk of Okushibu, and even felt a little sad that my tour would soon come to an end. Almost as if she had read my mind, Timo encouraged me to pop in and say hi if I was ever near the WANDER COMPASS hub, which really put the cherry on top of the Tomodachi Guide experience for me.

5 MIN WALK FROM SHIBUYA STATION

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How to get a special present.

1 Go to WANDER COMPASS Bring a WAttention Magazine and you ‘ll receive these presents!

A2 “one for each”

*Numbers are limited.

2 Go to CROSSING PHOTO

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Shibuya Scramble Intersection is right below the observation space where you can take the perfect shot with the best angle.

Open: Mon-Sun 10am - 8pm Contact: 03-5456-6361 wc_shibuya@wandercompass.jp

Address: Shibuya Station B1 fl oor, 2 Chome 1-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

WANDER COMPASS SHIBUYA is located next to Shibuya 109, in the underground passageway near Shibuya Station’s exit 3A.

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