WAttention Australia Vol.12

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Spring 2020 VOL.12

The Antiquity Himeji - Himeji Castle – A Timeless Cultural Icon Achieving a Zen State of Mind Nature and Tradition

ODAWARA

Connect with Japanese Culture and tradition

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ZAO: Enter the world of Snow Monsters

Connect with Japanese Culture and tradition

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暦 Koyomi February 4

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

節分 立春

Setsubun Risshun

After ousting the Oni, sardine heads and holly leaves, which are considered as the Oni-deterrents, are hung in the doorway. It ’s also customar y to eat a kind of rolled sushi called Eho-maki while facing toward the lucky direction of that year.

This year’s lucky direction is south-south-east. text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

According to the Japanese calendar, Spring star ts on the day of Risshun/ Setsubun (which this year falls on 4th Feb). It is said to be the day when the temperature hits its annual low, then star ts rising rather than falling , thus

calculated from this day.

Setsubun is regarded as the day to chase away the Oni (an ogre), which represents evil spirits and misfor tunes. Chanting “Oni wa soto, Fuku wa uchi...(Evil out, Luck in...) ”,

it ’s thought to be the real beginning of the new year. The dates of many traditional seasonal events are

people throw roasted soy beans at a person wearing an Oni mask , s ymbolizing the ridding of bad luck

from their homes. This ritual is derived from a ceremony “ Tsuina” which was per formed in royal cour t.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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In Harmony with the Seasons

Publisher

ZAO : Enter of the world of Snow Monsters

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JTB Australia Pty Ltd Level 18, 456 Kent Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia Tel: 02-9510-0410 WAttention Editorial Team Japan & Singapore

- Connect with Japanese Culture and tradition

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Tohoku’s Most Fun Spring Outing

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The Antiquity of Himeji - Himeji Castle - A Timeless Cultural Icon - Shoshazan Engyoji Temple - Achieving a Zen

Yoko Yamakawa wattention.au@jtbap.com WAttention Co., Ltd

Cover Photo

Top Himeji Castle Bottom left Odawara Castle right Zao Onsen Ski Resort 本誌に関する日本国内でのお問い合わせ先 和テンション株式会社 Tel: +81 3-6418-5701 Fax: +81 3-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com

State of Mind - Nature and Tradition - Side Trip Worth Taking 15

ODAWARA - Connect with Japanese Culture and tradition

Why “WAttention”?

WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA（ 和 ）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention） してほしいという願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

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See a different side of Japanese Snow Resorts!

ZAO: Enter the world of Snow Monsters Still largely unknown outside of Japan, the rich culture and gorgeous landscapes in Yamagata prefecture must be seen to be believed!

When you talk about winter resorts in Japan, most people’s minds automatically gravitate to Niseko in Hokkaido and Hakuba in Nagano, but there’s another spot in Japan that boasts amazing ski slopes and scenery: Yamagata prefecture’s Yamagata Zao Onsen.

Zao Onsen features fourteen slopes – one of which is an impressive 10km long – and twelve courses for all ages and experience levels.Ski lessons are available, and private lessons can also be booked with an English-speaking instructor. If you go in summer, the area also offers beautiful trekking routes and gloriously coloured leaves in autumn.

Arguably however, Zao Onsen’s most famous attraction is its “snow monsters”, affectionately dubbed as “shrimp tails” by the locals.

As the snow monsters can only be found on a small number of mountains where the conditions (strong winds, cold water drops, evergreen trees, and deep snow) are met, Zao Onsen plays host to some amazing scenery during the coldest months. Naturally, you can see plenty of these snow monsters while you’re skiing or snowboarding down the slopes, but if you still want to see more, you can ride the Night Cruiser up to the top of the mountain during peak season, where the snow monsters are all illuminated. Visitors should be aware that reservations are required to board the Night Cruiser.

You can also board the Zao Ropeway and enjoy an unrivalled view of the scenery over a long route or visit the Family Snow Park.

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The history of the area stretches back over a staggering 1,900 years, having first been discovered around 110 AD, and the resort itself opened in 1925, almost 100 years ago, and since then has grown to be the largest ski resort in Japan in terms of area. It even hosts the FIS Ladies’ Ski Jump World Cup every January. With such an impressive background, it’s really no surprise that the only thing warmer than the hot springs is the welcome that the local residents extend to both national and international guests. Onsen lovers are going to be well taken care of at Zao Onsen. Its sulphur springs, which are also known as the “Springs of Beauty”, are believed to have rejuvenating properties, along with helping to strengthen both your skin and blood vessels. For those looking to explore, the surrounding area has plenty of interesting shops to pick up souvenirs, and as the resort itself has signs in several languages – including English – the language barrier won’t be a problem for anyone hoping to visit.

With all these wonderful sights and activities to offer, situated a mere forty-minute bus ride from Yamagata Station, it’s no wonder more and more people are choosing to flock to this resort from overseas. For those of you looking for a great holiday amongst beautiful surroundings with friendly locals (and snow monsters!) , you’ll definitely find what you want here at Zao Onsen.

Z AO Wonder er1 Snow Monst

Snow monsters are created when the wind blows cold water droplets onto the evergreen conifers on the slopes. The drops freeze into ice, and as more and more accumulate and are covered by snow, the combination of ice, snow, and wind create surreal creature-like shapes.

Z AO Wonder 2 Onsen

Although it may seem hard to believe, Zao Onsen was first discovered in 110 AD, making the traditions in this village of hot springs and mountain scenery 1,900 years old!

Z AO Wonder l s3 Ko k e s h i d o l

A kokeshi is a traditional wooden doll and a popular souvenir in the Tohoku region. When you visit Zao Onsen you can meet one of the craftsmen who make and paint the dolls!

Tasting Yamagata’s highly-rated sake!

One of the most famous Japanese items is its rice wine sake, and some highly-rated sake comes from Yamagata itself.

The best place for sake is the “Yamagata Sake Museum & Yukemuri Bar Tsumami”, which is on the way to Zao. You can try numerous sake flavours and Yamagata delicacies, along with international food.

The menus are written in several languages, including English.

Z AO Wonder k4u Tama-konnya

Z AO Wonder e5f

ta Be YamagaYamagata beef

is one of the top three types of beef served in Japan. This tender delicacy is must-eat for meat-lovers!

Tama-konnyaku is Yamagata’s soul food. It’s simmered konnyaku served on a bamboo skewer.

Access Zao Onsen is easily accessible by Shinkansen bullet trains, airplanes, or highway buses from some of Japan’s main international airports.

Zao

Tokyo

ZAO ONSEN TOURISM ASSOCIATION http://www.zao-spa.or.jp/english/

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Tohoku’s Most Fun Spring Outings A panoramic view of sakura blossoms in Kaminoyama city, Yamagata prefecture Located at the foot of Mt. Zao, Kaminoyama city thrived as a castle town and a place for travelers to rest as they traveled along the Ushu-kaido, one of the routes established to connect Edo (now Tokyo) with other parts of Japan in the Edo period. Known for onsen (hot spring) for over 550 years, the city is full of historical treasures and natural wonders for you to take in.

ま かみのや やまがた

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Nothing goes better with cherry blossom than wine Located in a basin surrounded by tall peaks, Kaminoyama-shi is blessed with the perfect condition for growing fruits and wine. Besides growing grapes for wine-making, a lot of the vineyards in the city also grow other edible fruits. At Woody Farm, visitors with a reservation can tour the winery and create a unique wine bottle label to take home.

Experience Japanese hospitality at its best Jugoya Honten, a century-old Japanese confectionery shop close to Kaminoyama Castle, has a warm, nostalgic atmosphere that is difficult to find today. Once inside, expected to be greeted by all kinds of Japanese sweets, including their new bestseller—cat-themed sweet cakes. With a reservation, you can learn how to make delicious traditional Japanese confections from the owner, who works his way to bridge language barriers with visitors.

This is the ultimate place to experience Japanese hospitality.

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The Antiquity of

Himeji

Himeji Hiroshima

Kobe Osaka Kyoto

Tokyo

Okayama

Located just west of Kobe in Hyogo Prefecture, Himeji is a city with historical significance that permeates throughout its incredible culture. From the shining world heritage site of Himeji Castle to the secluded Shoshazan Engyoji Temple, the rich tapestry of Himeji’s past is on full display for you to discover.

The Sunrise and the Himeji Castle from the top of Mt. Otokoyama in the Otokoyama Haisuiike Park.

Himeji Castle – A Timeless Cultural Icon Himeji Castle lies at the center of Himeji City, and from the moment you step outside of Himeji Station, you can see the castle gleaming in the distance perched atop Mt. Himeyama. There’s a comforting familiarity to the castle, which might be because it’s featured so often in Japanese and overseas media. As you move through Himeji, you can feel Himeji Castle standing guard, quietly watching over the city.

Spectacular Sunrises

In the land of the rising sun, you can expect to see some epic sunrises, and the view of Himeji Castle’s silhouette against the horizon does not disappoint. Perhaps the best vantage point is atop Mt. Otokoyama. You’ll need to climb 198 steps to reach the summit, witnessing the sun crest over the horizon at dawn, slowly forming a monumental silhouette of the castle in the foreground against a vivid backdrop of orange, pink and red hues, is a spectacular sight that is well worth the effort. You’ll find plenty of photographers hoping to capture the nuances of the sunrises in each season, as the position of the sun and clouds gradually shift throughout the year. From the nearby Nagoyamareien Hill obseervation deck, it is said that when the sun is situated behind the silhouette of the castle’s upper roof the overlapping shapes resembles either a pair of glasses or the head of the popular superhero, Ultraman. There are eight amazing spots circling the castle, which allow you to view it from different sides, as well as through mirrored reflections. All eight locations can be easily reached by rental bicycles available around the city.

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On the Castle Grounds

Once you make your way inside the castle grounds, the great scale of the 700-year-old Himeji Castle becomes apparent. The main keep built 400 years ago consists of four main buildings – one Dai-Tenshu (big keep) and three Sho-Tenshu (small keep) - joined by watari-yagura corridors, with the Dai-Tenshu being the largest building. Two massive support pillars run through the center of the Dai-Tenshu, with the East pillar having existed since the original construction. Himeji Castle was built to be a massive feudal era fortress, with many of the design choices made strictly for fending off invaders. Only a single moat surrounds the castle now, however, at one time it was part of a trio of moats that extended as far as Himeji Station. The triangle, circle and square holes cut in the walls may look decorative, but they are actually strategic positions for archers and riflemen. A path may seem to lead to a dead end, but that is just an optical illusion to deceive any wouldbe attackers. Inside the castle you’ll find platforms on the third and fourth floors meant for dropping heavy stones on enemies unlucky enough to get too close. Some designs, though, like the different crests on display throughout the structure, serve a more symbolic function. These crests represent the different families that held power during the castle’s construction or renovation. Whether you prefer to discover the castle grounds with a traditional guided tour or the AR phone app, both are in English, so you won’t miss any of the castle’s fascination history as you slowly explore its large looming pathways.

The Himeji Castle reflected on the wall of the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of History.

The Himeji Castle and the reflection of the castle from the North corner of the Himeji City Zoo.

One of the nine gardens in Koko-en.

Koko-en

At Koko-en, you can immerse yourself in nine beautiful Zen gardens, each with landscaped greenery and tranquil ponds, and with views of Himeji Castle in the background, the scenery is simply breathtaking.

You can also enjoy a traditional Japanese lunch of local specialties such as anago don (salt-water eel over rice) while overlooking the gardens.

Shoshazan Engyoji Temple Achieving a Zen State of Mind

temple by taking a cable car up the Mt.Shosha and then a winding bus ride, or if you are adventurous, you can hike up the mountain to Shoshazan Engyoji Temple well. When you arrive, you can feel the spiritual power of the temple grounds, which have a sacred historical significance like the Himeji Castle. At this temple, monks practice Tendai Buddhism – a form of Buddhism that promotes the idea that we are all equal and can reach spiritual awakening. It also has amazing architecture, from the impressive Daikodo building, reserved for priests conducting special ceremonies, to the Jogyodo and Jikido buildings, where monks train in the ancient arts of zazen and shakyo.

Zazen

The Daikodo building viewing from the Jogyodo building in the Shoshazan Engyoji Temple.

The Maniden building in Shoshazan Engyoji Temple. Mani is a translation from Nyoi in Sanskrit which means As You Wish.

Many placid locations around Himeji offer wonderful places to escape the commotion of everyday life and find spiritual serenity. One such place is Shoshazan Engyoji Temple, a peaceful haven for meditation, deep in the forest of Mt. Shosha. The temple is steeped in spiritual antiquity and was well-known even before its famous appearance in the blockbuster Hollywood film The Last Samurai. You can reach the

The spiritual energy at Shoshazan Engyoji Temple has been recognized for over 2,000 years, making it an ideal spot for zazen meditation - the major meditative discipline of Zen Buddhist monks. The practice of zazen meditation is meant to unite the body and soul through proper posture, concentration, and breathing techniques. Monks describe the experience as if you were an ocean with waves crashing on the surface. As you thrust through the choppy surface and delve deeper and deeper into depths of yourself, things become more peaceful, quiet and still.

From there, your objective is to let go of everything around and inside you.

Shakyo

The practice of shakyo entails tracing ancient religious texts called sutras. Sutras play a major role in Buddhism, and it is believed that copying them reinforces the message of Buddha and is also a healthy stimulus for the mind. As sutras are age-old texts, it is quite common for those who copy them to not fully understand what they are writing, yet their significance remains with the writer. When visiting the temple, you can purchase simplified sutras to Shakyo in the Jogyodo. practice the art of shakyo yourself.

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A breathtaking view of the Seto Inland Sea from the top of a hill in Ieshima Island.

Nature and Tradition Himeji maybe a modern city, but tradition and nature are intricately interwoven into the fabric of the area. You can see this among local artisans and shops that have been practicing their trades for over a century, as well as in the nearby island of Ieshima, where the quaint island townspeople lead a simpler way of life than those on the mainland.

A Modest Island Life on Ieshima Island

As the ferry carries you to Ieshima Island, you’ll notice the surrounding islands, with the largest two being Tangajima and Nishijima. Islands providing the main industry for the group of islands with quarrying, while shipping in Ieshima Island and fishing in Bozejima Island contribute to the local industry. The seafood here is not to be missed, as local restaurants offer sushi, sashimi and other seafood dishes that are rarely found elsewhere. One such dish is sabazushi (sushi made with local mackerel). As you walk through town, you will notice two things: the town’s streets are small – the main street is barely large enough to accommodate a single car, many islanders use bicycles and motorbikes – and the cats, many lazily looking down from rooftops as residents quietly go about their daily business. One of the local attractions is a huge rock in the shape of a turtle. It is said that this turtle waited here for its master for so long that it eventually turned to stone. As you explore the island, you will come across Ieshima Shrine surrounded by native forests. From this highest-class shrine in Himeji City, you can get astonishing views of the ocean and neighboring islands. On a clear day from a nearby scenic area, you can even spot parts Himeji Castle off in the distance on the mainland.

The Torii Gate of the Ieshima Shrine.

The main street / Fishmonger on the Ieshima Island.

A Generational Brew at Nadagiku

At the Nadagiku Brewery, you can go on an in-depth tour of the facility and learn all about the ingredients and brewing methods they use for their sake products, but the brewery has so much more to offer. One thing that sets Nadagiku Brewery apart from others is their sakagura (storehouses) buildings. The sakagura buildings are used for modern purposes but also display artifacts and tools used to prepare sake many years ago. Another interesting area is the restaurant. Here you’ll see old wooden buckets hanging from the ceiling (these were once used to hold hot water to promote the proper bacteria needed for the fermentation process) and large, round wooden tables made from the lids of huge vats (originally used in the brewing process). Currently, the Nadagiku Brewery produces a wide variety of different sake beverages. There is even one with a Judo theme. This is because the great grand uncle of the current CEO was responsible for bringing the martial art of Judo to France. A small museum area in one of the sakagura features many photos and piece of memorabilia dedicated to 12

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The delicious seafood dishes and sabazushi.

An alley on both sides of which you can see old sakaguras in the Nadagiku Brewery.

One of old sakaguras in the Nadagiku Brewery.

The CEO of the Nadagiku Brewery and their products in sake barrels.

him. Before leaving, make sure to do some sake tasting in the shop.

There’s a great variety of sake to try that pairs perfectly with the local cuisines such as Himeji Oden (oden is a type of Japanese hot pot, but Himeji Oden adds its own flair to it by serving the dish with a ginger soy sauce) or pick up some otsumami (drinking snacks) from the Yamasa Kamaboko Yumesenkan. This local kamaboko (minced fish cake) factory sure to have a tasty match for Nadagiku’s special brews.

Stunning White Leather

The famous Himeji Oden – one eaten with soy sauce with ginger.

My first thought when looking at intricately painted leather goods in the Craft Gallery Ono was “Why do they only dye the leather white?” Many items adorn the store shelves, such as wallets, bags, coin purses and glasses cases, but the most striking thing is that all of the products are white. I found out that the technique used in creating this unique style of Himeji leather involves stretching and pulling the material for over 20 days to the point where the skin naturally takes on a white color. This process of leather making gives way to some gorgeous handbag, and the colors are added to the items using hand-painted designs. The white leather is very strong, and it has been historically used for drum skins and kendo shinai (practice swords) .

In the Yamasa Kamaboko Yumesenkan, you can try a wide range of mouth-watering foods made of fish cake.

The beautiful pieces made of white leather in the Craft Gallery Ono.

Side Trip Worth Taking Himeji has plenty of main attractions to keep you busy, but if you have some gaps in your itinerary, why not try filling them in with some laid-back excursions, like a visit to relaxing hot spring or a trip down memory lane at toy museum?

Japan Toy Museum

Just a 15-minute train ride from Himeji Station brings you to Koro Station. This unassuming neighborhood is host to the Japan Toy Museum. Composed of six traditional-style warehouses, this museum displays over 90,000 items, including both toys from Japan and other countries.

Special exhibitions highlight the differences in trends, design, and colors over time, as well as differences between toys from various countries. Some exhibitions are even seasonal, offering something new to see at different times of the year.

Inside (above) and the façade (left) of the Japan Toy Museum.

Shiota Hot Spring

Shiota Hot Spring is a great place to wind-down after a long day of sightseeing. It boasts a long history, with records of it dating as far back as 300 years ago. In the early 1900s, Shiota was recognized for its exceptional water quality, and the springs were further enhanced. The hot spring is surrounded by nature, offering the open-air baths stunning scenery throughout the year, such as cherry blossoms in the spring and fireflies lighting up the evenings in summer.

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The Yumenoi (above) and the Ueyama Ryokan (left) in the Shiota Hot Spring.

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To Himeji Stn.

To Ieshima Island

By Shinkansen bullet train (Hikari) From Tokyo Stn. 3h 35min. – 3h 42min.

From Kyoto Stn. 44min. – 59min.

From Shin-Osaka Stn. 29min. – 44min.

From Hiroshima Stn. 1h 4min. – 1h 46min.

By Bus From Kansai Airport 2h 20min.

By ferry From Port of Himeji about 30min.

More information: www.city.himeji.lg.jp (You can choose your language.)

5 Shoshazan Engyoji Temple 6 Port of Himeji

https://www.himeji-kanko. jp.e.adl.hp.transer.com/

7 Ieshima Island 8 Yamasa Kamaboko Yumesenkan 9 Nadagiku Sake Brewery

10 Craft Gallery Ono 11 Japan Toy Museum 12 Shiota Hot Spring

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At Daruma Restaurant, you can witness their mesmerizing dances while enjoying luxurious dishes made from the ďŹ nest local ingredients. You will also have the chance to socialize with the geisha, as they will cordially come to speak with you.

Odawara is a famous jokamachi (castle town) in Kanagawa prefecture with centuries-old connections to ninja, samurai, geisha and tea that make it an unforgettable destination. The castle itself boasts timeless legends and displays artifacts, and weaponry that bring history to life. A place where old meets new in a fascinating way.

 � � � �  Experience the serenity of an authentic Japanese tea ceremony. The atmosphere created by the traditional architecture of Souunji Temple and Matsunaga Memorial Hall is calming and refreshing, like the delicious tea that is served by real Japanese tea masters.

In its prime, Odawara Castle was an important strategic location and was able to grow to become the largest medieval castle in Japan. The top oor reaches an altitude of about 60 meters above sea level. With its remarkable architecture and the layout of its grounds, Odawara’s beloved historical structure has been selected as one of Japan’s 100 most famous castles by the Japan Castle Foundation. ŠOdawara Art Foundation

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See the fascinating ways art can interact with nature at the Enoura Observatory. Presented by Hiroshi Sugimoto’s Odawara Art Foundation, the expansive Enoura Observatory features exciting and thought-provoking art pieces and breathtaking views of the ocean.

Originally, the castle was built in the mid-15th century, but it soon was captured and placed under control of the powerful Hojo clan, who used it to wield their power over the region.

Though stories and legends of the castle are quite old, the gallery inside has a clean, modern look that features beautifully designed displays which blur the lines between history and art museum. The museum also oers a great interactive experience that is available in English for international visitors.

One of the most recent additions to the castle grounds is the ninja museum, Odawara Castle Ninja Museum. The museum focuses on the Fuma clan of ninja, who served Hojo Odawara during the Sengoku period. The museum presents the history and ideology of the ninja through a series of playful interactive games that both children and adults can enjoy, making it a wonderful place for families to visit while traveling Japan. While it leans into the more fun side of the ninja, the exhibits, which display real ninja weapons and scrolls, are very informative and reveal a side of the secretive warriors that is a mystery to many, despite their presence in pop culture.

Panoramic view from the observation deck of Odawara Castle

Tokyo Sta. Haneda Airport

Unlike their anime counterparts, the ninja were focused on gathering information and avoided battle and confrontation unless absolutely necessary. As it turns out, the Fuma ninja were just as good at keeping information secret as they were at collecting it, since much of the details of their clan and their special military operations remain a mystery. Hiroshi Jinkawa, Odawara’st ninja expert, holds a wealth of knowledge on the shadowy Japanese warriors and breaks down many preconceived ideas, revealing the truth about the Fuma ninja. He considers the ninja were more like the CIA or MI6 than what is seen in the popular anime like Naruto. In addition to the current programs that allow guests to dress as ninjas and walk around the castle grounds, there are plans to start a new program that will teach ďŹ ghting, information gathering, and meditation techniques of the Fuma ninja. Guided tours about the Fuma ninja are also available to reserve online.

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Odawara Hakone

https://odawara-tour.com/ Access: Just 35-minute train ride from Tokyo Station by shinkansen (bullet train) Contact: Odawara Tourism Co., Ltd. contact@odawaratrip.com WAttention Australia |

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