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暦 Koyomi May and June

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

Nyubai 入梅

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、 写真:渡辺肇

Just before the heat of mid-summer, comes the rainy season called “tsuyu” and the day marking the start of this season is called “nyubai”. The period varies according to the region, but this wet and humid season with few clear days lasts for around one month. This gloomy and cheerless rainy season is an important source of life-giving water for those in the farming industry. The kanji characters for “tsuyu” is written as “plum rain”. Indeed, this season is when the plum ripens and comes into season. During this wet and humid season which is conducive for the growing of mould and the human body is prone to illness, the

plum fruit is essential for strengthening the body’s constitution. Plum fruits cannot be eaten raw, but after processing, are known to effectively help avoid “three poisons” and are valued for their high medicinal value. They have been eaten from long past to help ward off poison from food, poison from water and poison in the blood. That is, food poisoning, water poisoning and for cleansing the blood from impurities. As such, various ways of eating plums were developed: umeboshi or pickled plums, plum miso paste, plum vinegar and sweetened stewed plums.

Recently, pickled plums have been proven to suppress the spread of food poisoning-causing bacteria and have antioxidation properties, proving the wisdom of ancestors.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles. Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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ing t s e er

gs t n i d n I Fin

ら 外国人か い 白 見た面 ! !! 日本語

今日の単語

W or d of th e d a y いち

いち

Ichigo Ichie

こと わざ

Proverb

Meaning 意味

time and “Ichie” “Ichigo” means life portunity or op e means one tim overb, which encounter. This pr e/ lifetime experienc means “once in a y used at all gin ori s wa y”, opportunit in Edo period. the tea ceremonies

今どき の言葉

Today’s Broken Japanese

爆買い Baku

ga

Conductor Aki

Discover new interesting Japanese words and phrases from a Japanese learner’s point of view with the aid of a Japanese teacher. Let’s get started! ☺

Loves exploring how culture affects language differently around the world and works as copywriter & editor. Also has a postgraduate certificate in TJFL (teaching Japanese as a foreign language).

Evelyn Tan

i

The origin of this term is hako gai, 箱買 い or otona gai, 大人買い. In the literal sense, hako gai means “purchase box”, where you actually buy a 12-piece box

This is similar to the modern acronym YOLO (you only live once), urging you to seize the day and take risks as you may not have another chance. However, the Japanese term carries a deeper sense of solemnity, purpose and ritual compared to the more flippant nature of YOLO. Ichigo ichie thus also highlights the need to devote your utmost effort in planning or doing something.

set. Otona gai is similar but its direct meaning is “shopping like an adult”. Both terms refer to purchases that you could not afford as a child but can now buy in bulk or even complete collections when you become an adult. Now the term includes situations where you can buy in large amounts without worrying about the price. When purchasing the same sneaker design with two different colours at once you would say, “Sneaker otona gai shita (I did buy sneakers like an adult)?”

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How to use

from Singapore

In tea ceremony, ichigo ichie describes the need to treat guests with true sincerity as the same meeting will never happen again. In other words, this proverb stresses the importance of treasuring each moment or meeting in life.

Pronounciation

Form

Japanese Language

T o d a y ’s Learner:

一期一会 発音

in

一期一会の心

Ichigo Ichie

Mind

Dating back to the Edo period, this term was originally used at tea ceremonies. The tea server always tries to make the best tea for the guests so that they can enjoy the ichigo ichie moment. This Japanese philosophy eventually led to the Japanese concept of omotenashi. •Enjoy every encounter and enjoy the precious moment •No moment is the same •Live each day fully as if it was your last

The baku in baku gai means “explosion”. It is used to refer to bulk purchases and was inspired by Chinese tourists who would often purchase 10-100 of the same products at once, such as 50 bottles of Shiseido face toners or 30 Panasonic electrical eyebrow shavers. They take tourist coaches to the shops or department stores and then buy tons of items within an hour or so. After they finish their baku gai the shops look empty, as if after a storm.

箱買い = 大人買い < 爆買い hako ga i

otona

ga i

baku ga

i

Illustration credit: www.irasutoya.com

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Summer Explorations and Adventures in Tohoku

Tohoku’s six prefectures along with Niigata Prefecture are the ideal destinations to go for a taste of Japan’s well-preserved tradition, culture and mindboggling natural curiosities. Visit the area in person for an experience that is a step away from the ordinary. Join us on this journey to explore the finest attractions!

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Rediscover the Charm of Niigata Cycling through the City Visiting the Old Town City of Niigata is divided into two parts by Shinano River, the longest river in Japan. The district between Shinano River and Niigata Station is called the new town while the north side of the river is the old town. For a grand view of both areas, it is recommended that you cycle on the Bandai Bridge, which serves to connect the two towns. The traditional st yle shopping arcade called Honchoshimo Market, and the Furumachi entertainment district are two popular attractions in Niigata’s old town. Although Kyoto’s Gion and Tokyo’s Shimbashi are two prominent geisha districts, Furumachi is home to Niigata’s geigi, a local word for geisha. Furumachi still retains an atmosphere reminiscent of the a bygone era visitors can enjoy geigi shows in restaurants and hundred-year-old establishments. If you're lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of geigi strolling the streets. Minatoinari Shrine houses the only rotating Komainu (Guardian dog) statues in Japan. In the past, women would pray to the komainu statues for rough weather so that ships could not leave port and their seafaring men could stay onshore longer. Today, both men and women pray for wellness by spinning the dog. Meanwhile, tying a hemp rope around the feet of the komaimu statues in Kotohira Shrine is said to help one get out of trouble, quit smoking and drinking, find true love and develop a successful business. If you have time, why not learn more about "Komainu culture" in Niigata. Bandai Bridge Address: Kawabata-cho Shimookawamae-dori, Bandai-Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi Honchoshimo Market Address: 12 ban-cho/13 ban-cho Honcho-dori, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi Furumachi Area Address: 7-, 8-, and 9 Furumachi-dori and vicinity, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi URL: https://ssl.niigata-furumachi.jp/ ( Japanese) Minatoinari Shrine Address: 3482 Inari-cho, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi Kotohira Shrine Address: 4579 Yoriai-cho, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi URL: http://niigata-konpira.jp/ ( Japanese)

Sasagawa Nagare at Murakami Great View of Unique Rocks and Reefs Sasagawa Nagare(f low) is the coast to the nor th of Murakami-shi located about 65 km northeast of Niigata -shi. Designated as a national natural treasure and voted one of Japan’s top 100 sea views, it boasts a stunning view of rocks. Sasagawa Flow got its name from a village called Sasagawa along the river course. The coast filled with these mysterious and naturally shaped works of art is the site of a legend involving a famous warrior named Minamoto no Yoshitsune. He is well-known by Japanese people as a tragic hero, who is said to have embarked on a boat here while fleeing the capital for the nor theast. Present-day visitors can also embark here on a cruise boat and enjoy the gentle sea breeze, appreciate the unique rock formations and experience seagull feeding. You can also get your hands on all kinds of mouthwatering sun/sea wind-dried fish products at stores located along the coast. Sasagawa Nagare Access: 15min walk from Kuwagawa Station (Uetsu Main Line) Address: 975-44 Kuwagawa, Murakami-shi, Niigata URL: http://www.sasagawanagare.co.jp/ ( Japanese) WAttention Los Angeles

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Strolling through Gold Mines Gold Rush on Sado Island Sado Island is off the coast of Niiagata and it only takes 65 minutes by the jetfoil boat from Niigata Port to get to this island packed with natural treasures and limitless charm. Gold and silver was produced on the island as early as 11th century. Due to the discovery of gold and silver in Aikawa area in 1601, Sado Island flourished as a prosperous mining town. However, the mine was shut down in 1989 because of resource depletion. Quite a few relics and mining facilities are open to the public today, one of which is Kitazawa Flotation Plant. It is known as East Asia’s first flotation plant. The gigantic plant, which used the flotation method, is now covered in moss and vines. Although its glory has long faded, its charm and nostalgia remain unchanged. “Doyu-no-warito,” a V-shaped mountain-top split resulting from opencast mining in the Edo period, serves as a symbol of Sado’s prime days. Without the help of modernday heavy machinery, workers had no choice but to dig by hand, making the sight even more impressive. At Historic Site Sado Kinzan, visitors can walk through several mine tunnels dug by hand in the Edo period, such as the Sohdayu Tunnel. Life-size mannequins of Edo-era miners are there to greet you. While you're there, try a local specialty—ice cream with gold flakes—and immerse yourself in the best of Sado!

Kitazawa Floatation Plant Access: 50min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 3-2 Aikawa Kitazawamachi, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: https://www.visitsado.com/en/spot/detail0091/ (English) Doyu-no-warito Access: 50min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 1-1 Aikawa Ginzanmachi, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: https://www.visitsado.com/en/spot/detail0094/ (English) Historic Site Sado Kinzan Access: 60min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 1305 Shimo Aikawa, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: http://www.sado-kinzan.com/en/ (English)

Sea Voyage on Tarai-bune An Inspiration for Ghibli’s Anime “Spirited Away” In the past 150 years, women on Sado Island followed the tradition of transforming their wash tubs (Tarai) into a small boat (Bune) to facilitate the collection of seaweed and shell fish on rocky shores . While the practice is still found on Ogi peninsula, also used for tourism purposes today. The tradition was made known to the world by a Ghibli anime called “Spirited Away,” in which the heroine took a ride on the round boat during her adventures. You c an enjoy a tub boat ride from Ogikou, Yajima /Kyojima and Shukunegi. Although the boat ride from Yajima/Kyojima only takes you around the bay, there is a small red pedestrian bridge and a picturesque view worth seeing. The boat driver rows gently, but it can take you a while to get used to the swaying movement to the point where you can just enjoy the ride and accompanying explanation. The boat has a glass bottom enabling you to look directly into the waters for fish and algae. Clear water, blue skies, green grass and shrubs and the red pedestrian bridge combine to form a beautiful landscape no visitors should miss. You can have a try at paddling yourself but it won’t be easy. Best leave the work to professionals and sit back and imagine yourself as the heroine in “Spirited Away”! Yajima Taiken Koryukan Access: 70min from Ryotsu Port by car Address: 365-1 Ogi, Sado-shi, Niigata URL: https://www.visitsado.com/en/spot/detail0039/ 10 010

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Iwate, Land of Marvels

Folk Legends from Tono

The fantastical land of Yokai Welcome to Tono, home of the most Yokai in Japan Hop on a bicycle and see which ones you can find!

▲ Kappa Hunting License

Surrounded by 1000m high mountains, the village of Tono in Iwate is the ground zero for folklore about Yokai-banashi (haunting tales of spirits, demons and monsters). Even now, Tono is known as the “Village of Folklore” as its tales continue to be through the traditional art of Japanese storytelling called Kataribe. If you’re feeling brave and hunger for adventure then rent a bicycle in front of Tono Station and set off for “Tono’s Mysterious Spots” in search of Yokai. Maybe you’ll find some Yokai that are the ancestors of creatures that appear in anime and games like Pokémon. Once you’ve got your rental bicycle from Tono Station head on over to a small river with a little shrine next to it called Kappa-buchi Pool. This is one of Tono’s most well-known “mystery spots” and home of Tono’s most famous water spirit Yokai, the Kappa. For just a couple of

Hayachine Shrine worships the god that is believed to reside within Mount Hayachine. Long ago the people of Tono gave thanks to the water that flowed from the mountain allowing them to farm. They believed that when you died your spirit would go to the mountain. This mountain worship helped create the mysterious folklore in Tono.

hundred yen you can get a “Kappa Hunting License” issued by Tono Tourism Association (you can pick one up at the Tourism Information center in front of the station and Denshoen Park near the Kappa-buchi pool for 210yen). With the license you can set out to catch some Kappa in the village. If you’re lucky, you might just run into the famous Kappa hunter Haruo Unman at the pool. Mr. Unman says to hook a cucumber to the fishing line of a bamboo pole and cast it in a gentle current where a Kappa might be swimming pleasantly underneath. He adds that the trick is to not let the whole cucumber go in the water. That said, even Mr. Unman has yet to catch a Kappa himself. Who knows, maybe you’ll be the first to snag one. At the beginning of the 20th century, a Japanese scholar named Kunio Yanagita who specializes in native folklore published a collection of tales (Tono Monogatari) from the Tono area that have raditionally only been passed down orally. The popularity of that collection

The Magariya farmhouse in Denshoen Park enshrines 1,000 Oshira-sama deities (a guardian of the home).

shot Tono to fame. Tono is filled with so many magical locations that make you feel as if you’ve been transported to some strange parallel world. Denshoen Park and Tono Furusato Village are just two examples. At the park the oldest traditional L-shaped farmhouse, called a Nambu-magariya, has been reconstructed piece-by-piece giving a glimpse into what life was like for farmers of Tono long ago. With peaceful countryside that has gone untouched for hundreds of years and flat roads, Tono is perfect for tracking down Yokai. Tono Access: 45-60min from Shin-Hanamaki Station (JR Tohoku Shinkansen) by JR Kamaishi Line to Tono Station URL: http://www.tonojikan.jp/Several_languages/english/english.html Bicycle rental: Prices start from around ¥500 for 2 hours Denshoen Park Hours: 9am-5pm Apr-Dec (Last admission at 4:30pm) 9am-4pm Jan-Feb (Last admission at 3:30pm) Admission: Adults 320yen, Children ages 7-18 220yen Access:25min from Tono Station (JR Kamaishi Line) by bicycle URL: http://www.tonojikan.jp/Several_languages/english/english.html

Over 200 years ago a large-scale famine took the lives of thousands people of Tono. 500 stone Buddhist images called Gohyaku-rakan were carved to bring comfort to the souls of those who perished. WAttention Los Angeles

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Bicycle rental: Prices start from around ¥500 for 2 hours


Explore the “Blue Caves” of the sea and mountains Let friendly fisherman guide you to the “Blue Cave” on the Sappa Boat Cruise Jodogahama is the most spectacular place along the Rikuchu-kaigan Coast of Iwate’s Miyakoshi. In Japanese Jodo means “Paradise”. With the striking contrast of the lush blue sea against the beauty of the sharp jagged pale rhyolite rocks, it’s no wonder this place has been given the name of the Buddhist “Paradise”. Within the sea and the rocks this paradise hides a mystical place. The Blue Cave offers an unbelievable and unforgettable experience. (See P2) To get there you’ll need to strap on a helmet, a lifejacket and take a little ride on a small fishing boat called the Sappa boat. As you make your way over high waves, you’ll come to a small opening between rugged cliffs and slowly enter. It’s a thrilling experience. When you look back at the small narrow opening in the cliffs that you just bent your body to squeeze through, you’ll be mesmerized by the breathtaking emerald green and cobalt blue colors of the crystal-clear blue water. On top of that, you’ll be greeted by your own reflection dancing on the water’s surface. Fares: 1,500yen per person for 20min Sappa Boat Cruise (Jodogahama Marinehouse) *No reservations, boats may also not be able to leave port due to weather conditions Access: 15min from Miyako Station (JR Yamada Line/ Sanriku Railway) by bus, 5min walk from the Jodogahama Visitor Center URL: http://j-marine.com/sappa/index.html (Japanese)

The shimmering “Dragon Blue” underground lakes of Ryusendo According to legend, the limestone cave is believed to have originated in ancient times when a large dragon burst out from Mount Iwayama, shattering the mountain as it ascended to the heavens. The dragon left a massive hole in the earth which began to gush with water. With a depth of 35m, the underground lake was named “Dragon Blue” for its beautiful sparkling crystal-clear blue water. Of the cave’s 3,600m (2.2 mile) length, 700m (half a mile) is available to explore. The temperature inside the cave throughout the year is about 10 to 11ºC (50 to 52ºF), so even in summer you’ll need a jacket. Hours: 8:30am-6pm May-Sep, 8:30am-5pm Oct-Apr, Open year round Access: 2-hr 10min from Morioka Station (JR Tohoku Shinkansen) by the JR Tohoku “Morioka-Iwaizumi ( Ryusendo )” Line bus Admission: Adults (High School students & above) 1,000yen, Children (Elementary & Junior High School students) 500yen

Walk the mountain path to enlightenment (Yamagata) Experience the ancient shamanistic practices of Yamabushi spiritual training Yamagata has one of Japan’s most well-known sacred places for mountain worship, the Dewa Sanzan or the “Three Mountains of Dewa”. This ancient shamanistic training practiced by Buddhist monks is called Yamabushi. So, what do you say to a lit tle pilgrimage of spiritual enlightenment? It’s sure to be a different experience than sightseeing by bus or car. The easiest route is the Mount Haguro Pilgrimage route beginning from the Zuishinmon gate leading up to the mountain summit. The climb is 1.7km (1 mile) and should take you about 90 minutes to reach the top. This particular pilgrimage dates back to the Edo period. Along your way you will come across the famous Mount Haguro Goju-no-to (f ive-stor y pagoda). The Michelin Green Guide Japan gave this scenic path its top honor of three stars. As you climb the 2,446 steps to spiritual discovery, taking in the beauty of rows of magnificent cedar trees which are between 350-500 years old, it’s easy to see why this area is regarded so highly. 012 12

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Culture Special

Bathing Culture A nice hot bath is universally enjoyed and communal bathing has been a cultural element in various times and places in history. People have enjoyed bathing together in Ancient Greece, the Roman Empire, the Ottoman Empire,from the Middle East to Scandinavia, from Britain to Russia and Japan and so on. Times and cultures are changing, but public bathing culture in Japan is

still alive and kicking and sticking closely to some of its longer standing traditions. Nowadays in Japan, communal bathing is mainly divided into three categories: onsen, sento and super sento bath, the last being something in between the first two. Sento are an integral element of city life. We explored its history and its modern appeal in the Tokyo of today.

The History of Sento A lot of people from various cultures have felt that bathing cleans more than just their bodies; there is also a feeling of cleansing your mind and soul. This is no coincidence, since bathing rituals in various shapes are present in many religions – from Christian baptisms to ritual baths in the Ganges river. In Japan as well, the origins of bathing are both ritual and Religious coming from Buddhism practices, but water is also a common purifier in Shinto myths. In time, the idea of bathing spread with Teikoku-Yu Š_ s t e p h a n i e m e l a n i e _

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noblemen constructing private baths in their homes during


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me in to to rst We he

Utagawa Toyokuni I Utagawa "WomenToyokuni and an Infant I "Women Boy in and a Public an Infant Bath Boy House" in a Public 1799 Bath House" 1799

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or “steam bath” or “steam in caves bath” at the in same caves time, at theand same popularizing time, and popularizing mixed bathingmixed several bathing times several as customer timesinteraction as customer grew interaction into grew i

communal bathing communal for the bathing masses forculminated the massesinculminated the vibrantin the fraternizing vibrant that fraternizing the Edo Bakufu that thegoverment Edo Bakufu deemed goverment immoral. deemed immor sento culture sento of theculture Edo period. of theThe Edofirst period. sento The was first recorded sento was recorded in 1591, just ainyear 1591, after justTokugawa a year after Ieyasu Tokugawa who would Ieyasubecome who would become very common it was very and natural common forand men, natural women for and men, women Although it was Although Shogun later entered Shogun the latercity entered of Edo(old the city Tokyo). of Edo(old Tokyo).

children to bathe children naked to together bathe naked at first, together the changing at first, services the changing serv

Edo Sento Edo Sento

of the 'bath ladies' of theor 'bath 'yuna' ladies' brought or 'yuna' the immoral broughtelement the immoral that element t the Tokugawa the Shogunate Tokugawa and Shogunate religious missionaries and religiousdisliked. missionaries The disliked.

entoperiod(1603-1868) in the Edo period(1603-1868) spread so much spread thatso much thatof 'yuna' services services wereofjust 'yuna' sento were related just sento at first, related helping at with first, helping w Sento in theSEdo

washing and fetching backs water. and fetching This job water. was later This job relegated was later relega it 's apparentit 's in apparent many writings in many from writings the time from that the even time that evenbackswashing to 'sansuke' to 'sansuke' which were later, exclusively which were young exclusively men. However, young men. a Howeve the poorest people the poorest couldpeople afford could to go afford at leasttoonce go ata least day. once a day. later,

custom emerged custom of closing emerged sentos of closing in the afternoon sentos in the andafternoon admittingand admit Cleanliness became Cleanliness a great became valueaof great the society value ofand the itsociety was and it was only certain only certain who customers paid extra who to be paid entertained extra to bebyentertained the by noted and praised noted by andmany praised foreign by many visitors foreign at thevisitors time who at the time who customers

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'bath ladies'. These 'bath ladies'. womenThese now changed women now into changed fancier clothes, into fancier cloth wrote travel wrote diaries, travel stories, diaries, and reports stories, etc andon reports Edo. What etc on Edo. What played shamisen, played andshamisen, eventuallyand retired eventually to the second retired to floor thewith second floor w some of the more somepuritanical of the more visitors puritanical criticized visitors in sento criticized culture in sento culture

customers. customers. Edo Bakufu Thefirst Edo tried Bakufu to limit first tried the number to limit of the numbe was the lack of was segregation the lack of of segregation genders inof the genders bathinginspace. the bathing space. The 'yuna' per onsen, 'yuna' but per when onsen, theybut were when unsuccessful they were they unsuccessful ended they en Very often theVery changing often the room changing and bathing roomroom and bathing in Edo sento room in Edo sento

up banning completely 'yuna'banning in 1657'yuna' and many in 1657 of them and many moved of them mo bath houses bath were houses not clearly wereseparated, not clearlymerging separated, in a merging single inup a completely single to the for Yoshiwara to the redYoshiwara light district redoflight the district time. Sentos of thein time. the Sentos rich in the area. Some sento area.owners Some sento imposed owners different imposed bathing different hoursbathing for hours

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Yamanote Yamanote retained area the second retained floor theand second usedfloor it forand drinking used it for drink men and women, men and somewomen, declared some men-only declared bath men-only houses bath and houses and area tea, playing shogi tea, playing and socializing, shogi and but socializing, the two-story but the structures two-story structu rarely woman-only rarely one, woman-only while others one, tried whileto others separate triedfemale to separate female

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From Edo Sento to Tokyo Sento The new and improved sento The Edo sento differs from sento today because of changes

At the time of writing this article it is estimated that the current

made during and after the Meiji period(1868-1912). The Edo

number of sentos is between 600 and 700, and yet they sentos

sento was smaller, darker and steamier, but the rules and

survive in the modern era because they still offer something

steps of cleaning yourself and the feeling of community and

more than just bathing – cleansing, relaxation and a sense of

interacting in the common spaces stayed the same to this day.

community. A sento offers a feeling at the end of the day that

People with sento-related jobs like the bandai (receptionist)

we are all only humans after all and we are together.

and the sansuke and yuna (male and female sento assistant, respectively) have disappeared today, but the variety of baths and convenience have increased. During the transition from Edo period to Meiji period, sentos lost their second floor common space and genders became strictly segregated, and that's is the sento of Tokyo today.

The Tokyo sento compared to the Edo sento grew bigger, more spacious, with higher walls and ceilings and more open space. The partition between male and female baths grew taller, and windows were installed to actually let the steam out. The steam baths became a different type of bath offered along with the hot water baths, together with saunas, bubble baths, electricity baths, jacuzzi jets, silky water baths and so on. The bigger the sento the more options there are. Some

Torii Kiyonaga "Interior of a Bathhouse" 1787

sentos even have a 'rotenburo' – an open air bath outside in

d

the garden, something a lot of people associate more with the onsen bath houses.

O f course, with the improvement of overall technology and general modernization, in the Taisho era sentos became tiled and thus easier to clean, and with the new water system it

f

became easier to fill the baths and heat the water. They simply and truthfully called them 'the improved bath'. During the Showa period showers started being installed in sentos and

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baths in people's private houses. In the 1960s in Tokyo there were as many as 2687 sentos, but their popularity and the numbers of sentos decreased over the years as the private baths at home became more widespread and more convenient.

Mysteries of Sento

Q Why do Japanese people like the water temperature to be so hot? A The temperature of the water at sento had been regulated by the metropolitan ordinance to not be lower than 42℃ . This was revised in 2012, but still most of the sentos follow this guideline.

Q Why is it common to drink cold milk after having a bath in a sento? A In the late 1950’s, a dairy products maker asked sentos to sell cold Coffee Milk because they had fridges in sentos, which was rare in Japan at that time.

Q Can foreign visitors/tourists enter and use a sento? A Yes.

Q How often is the water at sento changed? And how? A At least once a day, and for circulating baths at least once a week, as prescribed by the metropolitan ordinance.

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Teikoku-Yu ©_ s t e p h a n i e m e l a n i e _


Sento Keywords a BANDAI The space dividing the male bath . The person overlooking the male and female bath area from a high chair that site between. This person is works as a receptionist and cashier. In the past all sentos had a bandai person, but now it has been replaced by a reception desk at the entrance of the sentos. However, even nowadays small sentos with a bandai person remain, although they’re extremely rare.

b TOMEOKE Tomeoke can have two meanings. Firstly a private oval oke bucket that you use to pour water on yourself in the sento. That water is for rinsing yourself after scrubbing your body. Secondly in the past, oke buckets that richer families would pay extra money to the sento to keep them aside only for their private use.

d SANSUKE

g TENUGUI

A male bathhouse assistant to both male and female sento-goers in charge of preparing buckets of rinsing water, scrubbing customers' backs and taking care of the waiting list. Sansuke replaced 'yuna' girls who originally had this job, but after some time they also started giving sexual services and that prompted the authorities at the time to ban them. Sansuke were paid well and had a high position in the sento, previously having gone through responsibilities such as maintaining bath temperature. Today there are no sansuke in the sento.

Tenugui is a narrow and long Japanese cotton cloth mainly used as a towel, washcloth, or dishcloth, It can also be used as a decoration, as wrapping, and a headband etc. Tenugui always have some kind of design or pattern and new designs keep coming out, often featuring pop culture elements. There is a revival of buying and selling tenugui, as they also make very good souvenirs and gifts.

h FUROSHIKI This versatile cloth can transform in many things and it has been a convenient item in the life of every Japanese person since the Nara period. It has several sizes, from small to extra large and it can be made of various fabrics like silk, cotton, and polyester. Depending on how you tie it, it can become a great gift wrap, a sturdy bag, a backpack, a bento bag, or a bottle carrier. You can even transport a whole watermelon in a neatly tied furoshiki! But the 'furo' in 'furoshiki' stuck because one of its uses is carrying all your bathing supplies. Furoshiki have many designs and you can even wear them as accessories or use them as decoration. There are also various ways to tie them, from simpler to intricate ones. Above all, this magical shape shifting cloth is not only stylish and convenient, but also eco-friendly because it is reusable and it renders plastic bags unnecessary.

e ZAKUROGUCHI Zakuroguchi, meaning “pomegranate entrance”, is an entrance to the bath area at a typical Edo style sento. Actually, the sento that a lot of Japanese people know and believe to be traditional is slightly changed from the Meiji period. This entrance was very low in order to leave the least open space possible so that the heat of the water and the steam don't escape. In the Meiji period the bath became open, the walls and ceilings became high and there were even windows to let the steam escape, hence the zakuroguchi disappeared.

f NUKABUKURO c OKAYU This is the clean water used to rinse yourself after scrubbing, scooped up by the oke bucket. This was the last step before you could enter the sento bath.

Nukabukuro is a body scrubbing tool, with a similar purpose of a today's loofah sponge. It is really a 'bukuro' or a bag filled with rice bran and it has exfoliating properties. In the past it was mostly used by women in the sento. Nukabukuro are being sold even today, of course with some new designs.

e

a c

h b

Toyohara Kunichika

"Naked bodies compared to irises in hot water, comparing hips to a snow laden willow in hot water." 1868

Q What is the off-peak time to visit a sento? A It depends on the sento. In general, they are less busy from 7 pm to 8:30 pm, which is usually dinner time, and around midnight.

Q What are the health benefits of going to a sento? A Sento relaxes muscles, increases blood circulation, helps body

“THE FUROSHIKI - A Comprehensive Guide” 280 yen/JAPAN FUROSHIKI ASSOCIATION Available at TOKYO KARAKUSAYA, Morimoto building, 7-2, NihonbashiTomizawa-cho, Chuo, Tokyo, 103-0006

Q Is it common to have a mixed sento with both men and women together?

A No, not for sentos in Tokyo, but there are some super sentos where you can put swim wear on and go in a mixed bath.

weight loss and more.

Q Can people with tattoos enter a sento? A Yes. Sento don’t discriminate against people with tattoos, but the super sentos and onsens do.

Q How long should we stay in the bath water (optimal duration)? A It depends on the temperature and the purpose. For example, it is thought that 10 minutes in a 42℃ bath would be good for relaxing your body from fatigue.

Teikoku-Yu ©_ s t e p h a n i e m e l a n i e _

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