WAttention LA Vol. 28

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Los Angeles Edition

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Winter 2019 VOL.28

IBARAKI A Land of Charm

Breathtaking

SHIKOKU

- Kagawa - Tokushima - Kochi -

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暦 Koyomi Late Mar - Apr

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

Nodate

(O u t d o o r t e a s e s s i o n s)

野点

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

In the days of old, when winter turned to spring, the weather turned mild and agreeable and when various flowers started to bloom, the Japanese would head out to the fields and hills with their bentos, and sometimes with tea and sweets. This was also done in the belief that those who had departed from this world to the next, via the mountains and sky, would descend from the mountains during this

period, and it was a chance to meet and greet them. And so as time went by, this tradition of picnicking under fully-bloomed sakura trees, or having a cup of matcha or sencha outdoors became known as nodate. Savouring tea, enjoying conversation and sometimes reciting poetry on fine and fair spring days accompanied by a refreshing breeze. Such immersion of oneself in

nature as green shoots of grass and flora are sprouting is an elegant pastime unique to the Japanese who are keenly in tune with the changes of the seasons.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles. Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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VOL.28

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In Harmony with the Seasons

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Feature 1

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Ibaraki: A Land of Charm Breathtaking SHIKOKU – Kagawa, Tokushima, Kochi –

JAPANESE PRODUCTS PRODUCE, INC. 1405 Marcekina Ave. #104, Torrance, CA 90501 TEL: 310-782-8279 Email:info@washockusa.com

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Why “WAttention”? WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA(和)”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世界中の人々に「和」 (WA)に注目(Attention)してほしいという願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttention と名づけました。

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Hostel, Hotel, and Community Space:

Sadou Hostel is difficult to define! Conveniently located in the culturally rich area of Ueno, Sadou Hostel stands out among other accommodations in Tokyo: It reimagines the standard concept of a hostel, by combining convenience and affordability with modern style and incredible service. Initially, the stacked beds seem inspired by popular capsule hotels however, quite surprisingly, they are both spacious and stylish. The hostel’s pristine facilities offer excellent privacy; for example, each shower room is completely private. In addition, lockers and gender-separated dormitories provide a reassuring sense of security. Please see the web site below for details. The conveniently community space design provides staffs and guests to exchange valuable information. Offering guided walking tours, Japanese cooking classes, and tea ceremonies, Sadou Hostel provides the quickest and easiest plans to get a deeper understanding and authentic experience about Japan in between your specific travel plans. Another feature that makes the Sadou Hostel experience unique is their support circle of passionate volunteers from all over Japan. By exploring the city through their unique perspectives, you can gain a much more personal and meaningful experience than many other Tokyo visitors can - while also saving money! From Sadou Hostel’s central location in Ueno, you won’t need to travel far to experience many of Tokyo’s local charms and iconic views. It is an absolutely fantastic launching point to explore the entire city! Sadou Hostel 1-11-7 HIGASHIUENO, TAITO-KU, TOKYO PHONE: +81-3-6284-2600 URL: www.sadouhostel.com

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A quiet prefecture with abundant nature, Ibaraki has incredibly well-preserved historical landmarks to distinguish it from neighboring prefectures. Peaceful streets conceal the diligent activity of craftsmen at the heart of this picturesque prefecture; the smoky air filled with the distant sounds of banging hammers from artists hard at work.

Ibaraki a Land of Charm

Explore the easily accessible Japanese prefecture of Ibaraki, a beautiful land full of history and nature.

Signpost in the starting point of the Tsukuba-michi Road. ▶ It’s about 4km (2.5 mile) stretch to Tsukubasan-jinja Shrine.

茨 城

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Statue of the last Shogun, Yoshinobu Tokugawa and his father Nariaki Tokugawa: Kairakuen Garden

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Alluring Traditional Crafts and the Learning Spirit of the Last Samurai Yuki/Kasama/Mito At Fukuda Pottery Works in Kasama you can try your hand at creating the beautiful pottery that made the city famous and learn the importance of a true craftsman’s patience from Katsuyuki Fukuda, a sixth-generation master of the art. You can find out even more about Kasama’s popular traditional craft through a hands-on experience at Craft Hills Kasama. Watch as messy lumps of clay transform into one-of-a-kind creations through entertaining classes led by expert artists. When in Kasama, one shouldn’t miss the Kasama Inari Jinja, one of the top 3 Inari shrines in Japan and dating back to 651. Some of the key features are its many stone fox sculptures and the beautiful, purple, 400-year-old twin wisteria trees which bloom in early May. Persistence and devotion are apparent in all the impeccable traditional handmade crafts that come from Ibaraki, like the modest-yet-elegant silk called Yuki-Tsumugi, carefully made in the historic town of Yuki. Tsumugi-no-Yakata offers a hands-on experience, so you can learn about the traditional weaving and dying techniques the people of Yuki used centuries before. The spirit of old Yuki is woven deep into the city as the traditional Edo period streets act like thread linking the past and the present. As you pass by the Buyu Sake Brewery and other surviving misegura from the early 17th century, it ’s easy to imagine what the lively streets of Yuki were like years ago. Ibaraki’s disciplined culture of hard work and the samurai spirit also extend to academics. Mornings in the prefecture’s capital, Mito, are alive with eager students rushing to school ready to learn — a tradition lingering from the renowned Kodokan, Japan’s largest Han (Domain) school. These Edo institutions were established to educate the children of powerful feudal lords and their retainers. From its founding in 1841 by Nariaki

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Tokugawa (9 th Lord of Mito), until 1872, just after the Meiji Restoration, young nobles and samurai, among who Nariaki’s son and later the last shogun, Yoshinobu Tokugawa, studied medicine, mathematics, martial arts, and more. This important Cultural Proper t y is now a tes t ament to the ac ademic endeavors of these last samurai and Yoshinobu Tokugawa, the commander and hence the top samurai. The ruins of the old town’s historic castle, gardens, and residences — many still bearing the famous Tokugawa triple-hollyhock family crest — inspire a deeper exploration into Japan’s exciting history. Just as important as hard work is relaxation. That is why Nariaki Tokugawa also established the historic Kairakuen Garden, one of Japan’s top three garden landscapes, in Mito. Out of admiration for the utility of the fruit, he planted many plum trees on the premises. Now it is home to nearly 3,000 plum trees of 100 varieties. To celebrate the blossoms, the annual Mito Plum Festival is held from mid-February to early March. The best place to view the breathtaking landscape is from the stunning Kobuntei, one of Nariaki Tokugawa’s residences.

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Fukuda Pottery Works

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Buyu Sake Brewery

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Kairakuen Garden/Kobuntei

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Kodokan

Kimuraya-Honten This long history store now run by its sixth owner, puts Mito’s numerous plum trees to good use by creating delightful artisan desserts like Mito-no-ume, which are almost too adorable to eat. The sweet plum flavor is simply irresistible. Nariaki Tokugawa would be proud. 6

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7 Tanukian Tsutaya With over 142 years perfecting its craft, this restaurant creates delicious Soba Inari — sweet deep-fried tofu wrapped around Japanese noodles. This delicacy is closely connected to Inari shrines and its fox messengers, as there is a belief that they love eating deep-fried tofu.

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Modern Technology and Japanese Nature in Ibaraki Tsukuba Science City/Mt. Tsukuba/Kasumigaura On the more modern side of Ibaraki, the studious city of Tsukuba has become influential in the world of science and technology. Like the young samurai before them at Kodokan, the children of Ibaraki are hungry for knowledge, and the Tsukuba Expo Center provides a fun place to learn through its dazzling planetarium, full-scale 50-meter-tall (164 ft) model rocket, and various exciting hands-on exhibits. Though the world is separated by many countries and cultures, the pursuit of science seems to always bring people together. That is especially true for the Japanese space program which contributed greatly to the International Space Station with the addition of the Japanese Experiment Module, the largest single component of the ISS. At Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency ( JAXA) in Tsukuba, models of the satellites, modules, asteroid explorers, and rockets being used to launch Japan into the future are on full display. Reignite your passion for science and exploration as you learn about space at JAXA. Back on Earth, among the flat farmlands and grand lakes of Ibaraki, rugged mountains also found their place — the most notable being Mt . Tsukuba nick named “ Shiho ” or “ Pur ple Peak ” for i t s color f ul transformations in the morning and evening. The sacred mountain covered in v ibrant fores t s is Ibaraki ’s top location for hiking and relaxation. Many natural hot springs ONSEN bubbling up around Mt. Tsukuba welcome climbers after an active day of sightseeing. Amidst such awe-inspiring nature, Ibaraki overflows with spirituality. Today Jap ane s e p e ople s t ill make t he pilg r image up t he ancient Tsukuba-michi road to one of the Kanto region’s most famous shrines, Tsukubasan-jinja Shrine, to visit the cultural site and the mountain’s many sacred power spots like the impressive “Osugi”, an enormous, centuries-old cedar tree. The mountainside shrine highlights the age-old culture of Ibaraki with its various religious structures decorated with intricate wood carvings. There are also shrines located of Mt. Tsukuba’s two peaks, Nantaisan and Nyotaisan, which reach up to 877 meters (2,877 ft). Both are accessible by cable car and ropeway to hikers who want to experience Ibaraki’s nature and look out over the city below. Ibaraki promotes its luscious greenery and landscapes by making it a central part of many fun-filled activities. At Forest Adventure Tsukuba, test your balance and bravery by climbing around their thrilling courses among the leaves. Great attention is put into cultivating a beautiful natural environment to maximize the experience throughout Japan’s changing seasons. You can also appreciate Ibaraki’s natural scenery while getting some great exercise by renting a bicycle and riding along the Tsukuba-Kasumigaura Ring-Ring Road. These former railroad tracks now take cyclists on a journey around Lake Kasumigaura, Japan’s second largest lake, and the surrounding area through grassy fields, shaded tunnels of leafy trees, old Edo towns, and more. As one of Japan’s most important bread-baskets, Ibaraki is a fantastic place to pick your own fresh fruit and vegetables. Fukuda Green Farm is full of juicy produce, such as pears and persimmons, ready to be gathered and eaten among friends and family. Moreover, Kasumigaura area is the best of blueberry production in Japan. Thanks to Ibaraki’s fer tile farmland, the prefecture has gained a reputation for having delicious food. You can easily find tast y, fresh-from-the-oven bread f ro m l o c a l b a ke r ie s like M o r ge n in Ts uk ub a , a to w n f a m o u s f o r mouth-watering bread and pastries. For meat-lovers, Hitachi gyu’s high grade beef is tender and rich in fl avor. 8

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Tsukuba Expo Center

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Onsen in Mt. Tsukuba area

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Forest Adventure Tsukuba

Mt. Tsukuba cable car

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The top of Mt. Tsukuba

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10 Tsukuba-Kasumigaura Ring-Ring Road

11 Tsukubasan-jinja Shrine

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Superb Ocean Views

And More

Ibaraki’s eastern coast is lined with fantastic ocean views from beautiful beaches like Oarai which is mostly known for its iconic seaside Shinto shrine. The powerful silhouetted structure against the horizon creates spectacular sunrise views. On the coast, there is also the stunning hexagonal observation building Izura Rokkakudo designed by legendary architect Tenshin Okakura who founded the Japan Art Institute and Tokyo Fine Arts School and wrote “The Book of Tea” published in the USA, like it was pulled directly from an old Japanese painting, Izura Rokkakudo quietly looks out over the ocean from the cliffs of northern Ibaraki as powerful waves crash against the rocks.

Ibaraki is proud of its cultural heritage and incredible nature sprawling across the whole prefecture, and there is a lot to love. Witness the dreamlike ocean views of Oarai lsosaki-jinja Shrine as waves from the Pacific Ocean crash into the Shinto Gate of the Seashore God, “Kamiiso-no-torii”, spraying a cool, refreshing mist into the air. Take a relaxing hike through the mountains under the crimson autumn leaves to thundering waterfalls and stunning panoramic views. 3

Seasonal Festivities Watch the seasons come to life in spring, summer, and fall as colorful flowers bloom across Ibaraki. One of the 34 most beautiful places in all of Japan, according to CNN, Hitachi Seaside Park in Ibaraki offers a number of outdoor activities among the unique pom-pom-like kochia plants. In addition, Suigo Itako presents Japanese culture through traditional dances and various festivals in early summer.

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to visit...

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Superb Mountain Views

From the seaside to the mountaintops and the fertile farmland in between, Ibaraki off ers a number of attractive sites and activities without the massive lines and crowds. It is also conveniently located near Narita International Airport making it a great first destination after arriving. In Ibaraki, there are a variety of ways to experience the beauty and culture of Japan for all kinds of people from all over the world.

Listed as one of the 3 most famous waterfalls in Japan, the multi-layered cascade of thundering water at Fukuroda Falls does not disappoint. Witness its beauty year-round as the seasons change. For more excitement, you can take a thrilling dive right into Ibaraki’s beautiful mountain scenery from one of the longest suspension bridges in Japan, Ryujin Big Suspension Bridge, 375 meters (1,230 ft) above the gorge.

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IBARAKI sense: a place to touch Ibaraki in Tokyo IBAR AKI sense is a shop that gathers the best that the prefecture has to offer all in one place in the luxurious Ginza shopping district in Tokyo. Even the design of the shop reflects the charm of Ibaraki through their use of materials, like warm natural wood and stone found in the region, and each corner represents a unique region of the rich Ibaraki prefecture.

Explore Japanese Shrines As the largest and oldest Shinto shrine in the Kanto region, Kashima Jingu Grand Shrine, located in the center of Kashima city holds a lot of history and cultural significance. Even the Imperial Envoys have come to Kashima over the years to visit. This shrine dedicated to the deity of martial arts holds Japan’s oldest and largest straight sword.

1 Oarai Isosaki-jinja Shrine

2 Hitachi Seaside Park

4 Kashima Jingu Grand Shrine

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Address: 1-2-1, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Access: 6-min from Ginza Station (Tokyo Metro) on foot or 3-min from Yurakucho Station (JR) on foot

IBARAKI PRESENT CAMPAIGN Here's your chance to get a gift ! Please visit the website ⇒

IBARAKI NAVI

5 Izura Rokkakudo

6 Ryujin Big Suspension Bridge 7 Bungee Jump at the Ryujin Big Suspension Bridge

Hours: Shop & Cafe/ 10:30am - 8pm, Restaurant/ 11am - 11pm (- 9pm Sun & Holiday)

Ibaraki Prefectural Tourism & Local Products Association 8 Fukuroda Falls

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Breathtaking SHIKOKU - Kagawa, Tokushima, Kochi -

th

an

y Kary from U .S .A

Be

Shikoku (literally means four provinces) ーKagawa, Tokushima, Kochi and Ehime ー has always battled the elements, yet coexists with nature. You can journey to all four prefectures and experience a different setting, from huge boulders and crashing seas, to rolling mountains, to century-old trees that seem to have a life of their own. Shikoku offers picturesque breathtaking landscapes that you won’t believe are real.

Tokyo

Teshima Island

Access

Osaka Okayama Hiroshima Takamatsu Airport

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Kagawa

Kansai Airport

Tokushima Airport

Tokushima 10 8 9

Kochi Airport

Kochi

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Pacific Ocean 1 Shodoshima Olive Park 2 Kankakei Gorge 3 Angel Road 4 Ritsurin Garden 5 Kaizoku no Ie 6 in Between Blues 7 Muroto UNESCO Global Geopark 8 Niyodo River 9 Kamikoya 10 Shikoku Karst

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Takamatsu Airport

To

Shikoku

From

Tokyo(Haneda)

Air

1h15mins

From

Tokyo(Narita)

Air

1h20mins

From

Osaka(Kanku)

Bus

3h32mins

Takamatsu Station Kochi Station *Shortest possible time

To

1h4mins Train

2h28mins

To

Tokushima Station

Tokushima Airport 1h15mins

Kochi Airport

To

1h25mins

2h45mins 57mins Train

Hiwasa Station

(Take the Nanpu limited express train from Awa-Ikeda Station and make a train transfer to Tsurugisan limited express train to Tokushima Station)

More information: Kochi http://visitkochijapan.com Kagawa http://shodoshima.or.jp/ml/ https://teshima-navi.jp/en/ Tokushima https://discovertokushima.net/en/ https://www.awanavi.jp/_files/00023108/SouthAwaArea2018_English.pdf


Shodoshima Olive Park

Kagawa

Riding an e-bike on Teshima Island

: Islands Experiences and Ritsurin Park

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agawa is Japan’s smallest prefecture, and is nested between the mountains and the sea. Among many of Kagawa’s off shore islands, we visited Shodoshima and Teshima island, which are rich in both nature and culture. One might assume that seafood would be Kagawa’s main export, but that is not exactly the case. Kagawa is very proud of its award-winning olives, which has led to a number of olive based products, from ice cream to refreshing olive soda, which surprisingly don't disappoint. One of the best places to enjoy these unique treats is in Shodoshima Olive Park. This scenic park is especially loved by Studio Ghibli fans as it has replica shops and structures from the animated movie “Kiki’s Delivery Service”. Here you can experience yo ur f a vor i te s ce n e s f rom t h e movie, from visiting the bakery that Kiki works in, to taking a photo on her famous broom. Kagawa is sometimes called ‘the udon prefec ture’ because of its tast y Sanuki udon. While there, you can tr y it for yourself, and Shodoshima happens to have an udon restaurant.

Another popular sightseeing spot on Shodoshima Island is the Kankakei Gorge, bes t accessed via the ropeway as it allows breathtaking v ie w s t ha t r is e f ro m o v e r 6 0 0 me ter s ( 2 , 0 0 0 fe e t) . O nce you reached the top, try the ropeway shop’s maple cider, or attempt to throw a small clay disc through a hoop—a practice believed to bring you luck and fortune in the future if you succeed. If you’re looking for other power spots (popular locations to recharge your spiritual batteries) then be sure to visit Angel Road, a p opular sp ot— e sp e ciall y for couples—that can only be accessed at specific times of the day due to the changing tides. During low tide, people can stroll across to the islands. On this small island, you can find wooden plaques called ema with couples’ names on them, as well as a few padlocks similar to other famous lovers’ points around the world. This place is especially beautiful during sunrise, when you can hear waves crashing on the shore around you, and see birds flying above.

Kankakei Gorge

b e com e e sp e c iall y f am o us for i t s Teshima Ar t Museum and is one of the stops on the Setouchi Triennale (art festival), making it a place full of artworks to discover. A recommended way to go around t h e is la n d is b y e - b ike , a s t h e islan d is f air l y small i t s ro a ds are designed to lead you to each at trac tion w hile you enjoy the ocean views on the way. Ritsurin Garden is another local favorite, which is a traditional Jap an e s e lan ds c ap e gard e n in Takamatsu Cit y. It ’s considered one of the best gardens in Japan; an impressive feat since its histor y stretches back to t h e Ed o Pe r io d (16 0 0 s -18 0 0 s) . T he prop er t y include s s e veral ponds, picturesque foot bridges, museums, and stunning rest houses that serve tea and overlook the proper t y ’s ponds. Couples dressed in traditional kimonos strolling around the garden add an element of nostalgia. Yo u c an als o e x per ience count le s s views of Mt. Shiun, which forms a backdrop to the garden’s already unbelievable scener y.

T he small Teshima Island isn ’ t lacking in natural beauty, but it has

Mt. Shiun in the background of Ritsurin Garden

Angel Road, Shodoshima Island

Kikugetsu-tei teahouse in Ritsurin Garden WAttention Los Angeles |

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Tokushima

Indigo dyeing workshop provided by in Between Blues studio

: Indigo Paradise

A

lthough indigo is mostly manufactured artificially throughout the world, the traditional art of indigo is part of Japan’s history and still kept alive in Tokushima, despite its recent decline. This has led to the movement of re- educating Japan about the ar t, as well as the fight to preserve a craft that was so crucial to Japan’s his tor y. Tokushima is s till the number one indigo producers in Japan, and it’s the home of a passionate group of craf t speople. We met Lek i Nagahara, an indigo expert and shop owner, and also a former world champion surfer! His shop―appropriately named, in Between Blues―is a collaborative project between him and several other craftspeople in the community and it’s just feet away from the beach and blue ocean.

the cloth submerged, to how tightly you hold the cloth together. Our finished product was a psychedelic light blue piece, with streaks of white, again reminding me of the shop’s name. Although it was a short experience, I feel like I’ve gained a deeper understanding of Japanese culture and the people who live in the Shikoku region. They have a strong resolve to preserve the environment and their history, while also looking towards the future. In order to better appreciate the ocean’s gifts while in Tokushima, we decided to go for lunch at the Kaizoku no Ie (Pirate’s House) Restaurant. This floating restaurant is a great place to eat fresh, local seafood, while enjoying the sensation of being gently rocked on the water. We even tried grilling our own food with the help of the staff !

Leki explained indigo’s histor y and why the color is sometimes referred to as Samurai Blue (a phrase used to describe Japan’s national soccer team jerseys). During the feudal era in Japan, samurai needed a way to stay clean and disease-free during their long months in the battlefield, and clothing dyed with indigo has antibacterial properties. Fun fact: Indigo is used even in traditional medicine for stomach aches! Sadly, Leki explained that the traditional method is more costly and time-consuming, while the downsides of the industrial one is that it has less antibacterial properties and its production has a negative effect on the environment overall. Leki cites this as another reason why more producers should transition to traditional indigo dyeing: aizome, as our oceans and beaches have become increasingly more polluted. We then tried our hand at dyeing clothes, which in comparison to the painstaking process of creating the dye, seems like the easiest part. We first took a cloth and pressed it into a small ball, and then submerged it into the dye for a few minutes. How dark your piece will be depends on several factors, such as how long you keep

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Kaizoku no Ie “Pirate’s House” restaurant


Muroto UNESCO Global Geopark

Kochi

Stand-up paddle-boarding (SUP)

: In Sync with Nature

We started by exploring Kochi’s amazing nature in the

breathtaking Muroto UNESCO Global Geopark, which is located near Cape Muroto and includes Muroto City. It offers an interactive exhibit introducing the history and culture of Muroto, and walking tours around the Geopark ’s rock formations, which can be conducted in English upon request. Nature-lovers should also make sure to visit the Shikoku Karst—one of the few karsts (sprawling f ields of limestone) in Japan, and the only one in Shikoku. It boasts plent y of walking tracks, campgrounds and lodges, making it an ideal destination for every kind of traveler. Learning SUP in a day Japanese people often envision visitors of Shikoku as people draped in white with straw hats, as thousands travel to the region for a Buddhist pilgrimage. However, a completely different image appeared when I realized how many aquatic sports were done in the area. From surfing to kayaking, Shikoku’s residents love the outdoors. There were several opportunities to try stand-up paddle boarding(SUP), a sport that originated in Hawaii. SUP has found a home in Japan, which in turn is becoming the new SUP paradise in Asia.

The art of washi papermaking Kamikoya is likely one of the best kept secrets in the art community of Kochi. Hidden atop several winding roads in a secluded forest, Rogier Uitenboogaart’s workshop sits on top of a hill, with not another house for miles. Rogier, a Dutchman who is a visiting professor at Kochi University of Technology, is the owner of Kamikoya, specializing in traditional Japanese papermaking called washi. Rogier and his family grow their own food and materials for creating washi, while also running a guesthouse. Our washi papermaking experience begun with us being cut loose to find materials (leaves and flowers). We were then tasked with mashing the mulberry fibers with a wooden mallet, which needed to be done in a specific pattern with a specific rhythm and timing to get it right. After beating the fibers to a pulp, we ladled the mix into the frames used to make the paper’s shape and pressed all the water out. It was a daunting task in the beginning, but it was satisfying to see an art made from scratch. Rogier’s easy-going nature and sense of humor, as well as his expert explanations, allow anyone to become an artist for a day.

Although some prefer to try the sport in the ocean, scenic paddle boarding allows for multiple backdrop changes, as well as fun and challenging obstacles. This was the philosophy of our guide and instructor Mr. Rangi Sasaki, a SUP champion and owner of SUGGOI SPORTS. His laid back approach was just the thing for my beginner’s nerves, and I quickly learned to paddle. The best part of the tour came towards the end where we were able to lay down on our boards, and let the current take us down the river. We passed under a huge bridge I had previously driven over, and felt as if I was somewhere that most people weren’t usually in. SUP truly is a full body workout, and will leave you exhausted but accomplished.

Kamikoya workshop

Handmade washi paper WAttention Los Angeles |

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