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Summer 2019 VOL.30

Mysterious Tokyo Bordering the supernatural world W h e r e E d o M e e t s To k y o

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暦 Koyomi Jul - Aug

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

O-chūgen お中元

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

There is a long tradition in Japan for people to give gifts twice a year to those who have helped them; first in summer and again at the end of the year. The first occasion is called o-chūgen and the second o-seibo. Gifts of gratitude are given to those to whom people feel indebted, such as friends and business acquaintances.

Chūgen, meaning middle origin in Chinese, was first introduced to Japan from China, where the birthdays of Taoist gods are celebrated three times a year— 15 January, 15 July and 15 October. Thus, the birthdays are called sangen, meaning three origins in Chinese. In Japan, such a

celebration is held only in the middle of July, when traditionally, people pay formal respect to their ancestors.

Since summer is when water accidents and natural disasters happen most often, festivals are held to celebrate the gift of life.

Gratitude is not only given to ancestors but also to those who are still with us. Hence, the tradition of o-chūgen connotes the concept that “every individual is supported by many other people.”

Japanese often give wheat noodles as o-chūgen gifts, based on Chinese tradition. It is said that in the past, the son of a Chinese emperor, who died on 7 July , turned into

a ghost and an epidemic broke out soon after. To put an end to the epidemic, people offered candies made out of wheat flour to the ghost.

To this day, many people still make o-chūgen offerings. *The “o” in o-chūgen is a prefix applied when the word is politely paraphrased.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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ANOTHER SIDE OF TOKYO: TRADITIONAL YET MYSTIFYING 03 06

In Harmony with the Seasons

Feature 1

Suigian – Where Edo meets Tokyo

Publisher

JAPANESE PRODUCTS PRODUCE, INC. 1405 Marcekina Ave. #104, Torrance, CA 90501 TEL: 310-782-8279 Email:info@washockusa.com

Editor in Chief Naohisa Nakada

WAttention L.A. Staff

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Feature 2

Mysterious Tokyo: Bordering the supernatural world – Tokyo: A city of two worlds

Paul Choi Y.Hirane / Kazuyo Saeki

Contents provided by WAttention Co., Ltd Yasuko Suzuki

Cover

Suigian

– The things that go bump in Japan’s nights

Editorial & Design

– Tokyo Ghost Stories

Partners

– Superstitious Spots

WAttention Editorial Team Japan & Singapore WAttention Co., Ltd

– Tokyo Trick Art Museum 本誌に関する日本国内でのお問い合わせ先 和テンション株式会社 Tel: +81 3-6418-5701 Fax: +81 3-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com Copyright © 2019 JAPANESE PRODUCTS PRODUCE,INC. All rights reserved.

Why “WAttention”?

WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA（ 和 ）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世 界 中 の 人 々 に「 和 」 （WA）に 注 目（Attention）して ほし いという願 い を 込 め て WA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

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Where Edo M e e t s To k y o

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ucked away amongst the skyscrapers of Nihonbashi and hidden below the Fukutoku Shrine, the coolest new way to travel back in time awaits. Suigian is an innovative new player in the Japanese culture tourism scene that invites you to venture down its shining staircase and discover Old Tokyo, or as it was known back then, Edo.

from the prestigious schools of these ar t forms. Guests can enjoy these per formances while having a meal and a drink or two in a stylish modern lounge space, making Suigian a modern and innovative way to experience traditional Japanese culture.

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Hanayagiryu Hanayagi KIeayaka

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reated with the goal of of fering travelers a fresh taste of traditional Japanese culture during the 2019 Rugby World Cup and the Tokyo 2020 Games, Suigian is Japan’s first theater lounge; a cultural experience that aims to give visitors an authentic evening of t he Japanese per for ming ar t s , alongside the modern comforts of a bar and restaurant. At Suigian, guests can experience traditional Noh plays, comedic Kyogen plays and Japanese dance, all performed by professionals

Kanzeryu「Atsumori」Takeda Fumiyuki

Okuraryu Okura Yataro, Shigeyama Chuzaburo

Lounge,” a tribute to the legendar y restaurant that was the center of Nihonbashi hospit alit y culture throughout the Edo and Meiji periods.

The Momokawa lounge offers a slower rhythm than its daytime counterpart, with geinagon performers soothing the room with dance, song and shamisen music, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of Edo-era restaurant-inns.

Brimming with such rich history and

Konparuryu「Hagoromo」Konparu Norikazu

and cultural signif icance to the N i h o n b a s h i a r e a a n d To k y o , a n impressive feat for a new establishment in this modern era.

Owner of Suigian, Hidetomo Kimura,

in an interview with WAttention, said that Suigian aims to give travelers a place to “encounter the real Japan,” one f re e of “ temp orar y change s ” such as replicas and reimaginings that show the ever-changing nature of Japanese culture. Kimura has undoubtedly achieved this by allowing guests to literally come in contac t with real history. From the tableware to the décor, ever y par t of Suigian has a long his torical back ground.

Essentially, you can watch a play by per for mer s f rom famous t heater schools founded over 500 years ago, drink out of an antique teacup that was highly likely used by 19th century luminaries such as Sakamoto Ryoma (1835-1867, one of the key figures in Japan’s modernization), and stretch your feet out on a rug woven by the Yoshijima family, the last artisans of the nabeshima dantsu rugs adored by many lords during the Edo period. In other words, every aspect of Suigian was carefully chosen for its historical

Suigian hosts up to three performances

a day, and pre-show synopses are available in English upon request in advance. Af ter each per formance, actors of ten stick around and chat with patrons to discuss and answer any questions they may have on the per formance or traditional theater in general. By night, Suigian draws inspira t ion f rom i t s lo c a t ion an d transforms into the “Momokawa

innovation, Suigian is best described as a “past-in-present ” experience, and is set to be the hottest new way to experience traditional Japanese culture in Tokyo. After all, what better way is there to experience “real Japan” than to travel back in time to Edo for a few hours?

SU IGI A N A 1-minute walk from Exit A6 of Mitsukoshimae Station on the Ginza Line and Hanzomon Line of the Tokyo Metro.

Direct access from Coredo Muromachi 2 via underground walkway B1F, 2-5-10, Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan Hours: 11:00 to 23:30 (Last order 23:00) The Momokawa Lounge does not operate on Sundays or national holidays. Please check the detail opening hour on the schedule

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Mysterious Tokyo Bordering the supernatural world

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One Hundred Ghost Stories in a Haunted House Katsushika Hokusai 1790

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Tokyo: A city of two worlds

While Tokyo is often thought of as a modern metropolis, a step beyond the glistening skyscrapers and a wander down the winding side streets will reveal a pathway to a different side of the city.

Tokyo is home to thousands of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, each with its own unique history, story, and feel. Visiting these places will transport the curious traveler to the supernatural side of Tokyo.

here are t wo Buddhis t concept s cent ral understanding the mysterious nature of Tokyo; shigan, literally meaning “this shore,” and higan, meaning “that shore.” Simply put, shigan refers to the world we know, and higan is the place humans go when their time is up.

While the majority of Japanese people are not religious, both Buddhism and Shintoism are deeply ingrained into Japanese culture, and so many Japanese traditions consist of the relationship between shigan and higan. For example, it’s common practice in Japan to pray at temples, and visit the graves of one’s ancestors, both ac ts considered to help one’s journey across the river that divides the higan from the shigan. Along with the traditions born from these concepts, there are also many legends of mysterious creatures that cross between them, such as the yokai and the yurei.

Despite the enthusiasm of both foreign and Japanese creatives, Tokyo’s supernatural side remains relatively unknown. So for the curious travelers out there — be brave. We dare you to step of f the beaten track and explore the origins of Japanese ghost stories in temples and buildings where yokai and yurei lurk.

Scene from a Ghost Story: The Okazaki Cat Demon Utagawa Kuniyoshi 1850 WAttention Los Angles |

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The things that go bump in Japan’s nights

With the Obon holiday honoring ancestral spirits in mid-August, summer is the season of ghost stories in Japan. To get into the spirit of the season, WAttention sat down with Hiroko Yoda and Matt Alt, authors of ”Yokai Attack!: The Japanese Monster Survival Guide.” They gave us the run down on yokai, yurei and all the things that go bump in the night in Japan.

O-dokuro / Illustration by Tatsuya Morino 12

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okai Attack! is a wildly entertaining and educational illustrated guide to yokai. Yokai, as Hiroko and Matt enthusiastically explained, are a specifically Japanese supernatural being, and conceptually do not fi t into the Western concepts of ghosts, demons or monsters. Different from t h e h ove r ing t ransluce n t g h o s t s in We s te r n culture, there’s no universal agreement as to what yokai look like. There are yokai who look like animals, some who look like humans, and others who look like objects, making the term far more ambiguous than any of its English translations.

Matt points out that not all yokai are scary, and while creatures such as O-dokuro (a giant skeleton that devours humans) are pure nightmare fuel, yokai such as Akaname (literally a “bathtub licker”) seem rather comical in comparison. Yokai are also not necessarily ambitious, (they don’t always have a motive) and may just haunt someone because they feel like it. On top of these characteristics, yokai are deeply ingrained in Japanese histor y, literature, art and popular culture — therefore existing in the hearts and minds of all Japanese people. Hiroko and Matt believe that understanding yokai leads to an understanding of a vast number of Japanese cultural references, and an overall deeper understanding of Japanese culture.

Overall, Yokai Attack! is a great read that firmly pulls you into the world of yokai and the supernatural side of Japan. Hiroko and Mat t exper tly craf t each yokai’s profile so that no reader is left with any questions except for “when can I see them?”

While yokai may be hard to actually meet in the wild (not to mention potentially terrifying), Yokai Attack! introduces plenty of spots in Tokyo and other regions of Japan for the adventurous traveler to seek out and experience the origins of the legendary creatures. So venture out in the dark this summer, and spend your nights discovering Japan’s otherworldly yokai.

Akaname / Illustration by Tatsuya Morino ” Yo k a i A t t a c k ! T h e J a p a n e s e Monster Sur vival Guide” ( Tuttle Publishing, 2011) and ”Yurei Attack!

The Japanese Ghost Survival Guide” (Tuttle Publishing, 2011) are factual and fun to read guides to traditional Japanese monsters, ghosts, and spooky culture in general. They are available online, at your favorite book retailer, and sold in Japanese stores that carry English-language titles, such as Kinokuniya Books.

Hiroko Yoda President of AltJapan Co., Ltd., a Tokyo-based company specializing in the localization of Japanese entertainment such as games, comics, and literature.

Matt Alt Co-founder of AltJapan Co., Ltd. and a co-host of the NHK World TV series Japanology Plus.

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Tokyo Ghost Stories

If there’s one thing Tokyoites love, it’s ghost stories. With the popularity of ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), rakugo and kabuki theater in the 1800s, kaidan (ghost stories), became a key part of popular culture across Japan, and the arts scene in Tokyo became a hub for sharing them.

espite their often chilling or gruesome nature,adaptations of kaidan were a hit with the masses due to the familiarity of the original stories amongst Japanese people. Because of this, kaidan are also a staple in the Japanese custom of nor yo (the idea of enjoying the sweltering summers by stimulating the five senses to cool dow n) , an d since t he day s of Edo, To k y o i t e s h a v e c e r t a i n l y h a d t h e coolest summers.

Looking at the above, it can be seen that most kaidan are stories of revenge or karmic retribution, but each have wildly different plots, characters and ways that they can be told, making t h e m a n e xc i t i n g w a y t o d i s c o v e r Japanese culture.

Kabuki theater is undeniably one of the greatest ways to experience kaidan.

Many famous kaidan are set in Tokyo, and their kabuki adaptations have been entertaining audiences all over Japan for centuries.

Rakugo is a more minimalistic style of theater compared to kabuki, and usually involves a single s tor y teller seated center-stage using a fan, a hand towel, and his voice to entertain the audience.

One famous storyteller, Sanyutei Encho, shook Edo audiences with renditions of both traditional and original ghost stories. Many of Encho’s rakugo were also adapted into popular kabuki plays, and to this day are a staple of both rakugo and kabuki performances.

The Ghost of the Murdered Wife Oiwa Utagawa Toyokuni 1812 The Ghost of Seigen Haunting Sakurahime Tsukioka Yoshitoshi 1889

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Superstitious Spots

It is well-known within kabuki and rakugo circles that actors performing kaidan should tread carefully. For example, actors and theater staff preparing to perform one of the most famous ghost stories, Yotsuya Kaidan, visit two temples and a shrine to pray away any bad omens, with some even visiting the grave of the story’s main character, Oiwa.

Kanda Myojin Shrine Remember Taira no Masakado? Well after his death he became a god of sorts, and this shrine is dedicated to him.

The Burial Mound of Taira no Masakado In 940 AD, a warlord named Taira no Masakado declared himself as the “new” emperor of Japan and was subsequently beheaded. His head was displayed at various places across Japan, and ominously brought misfortune to those near it.

The Tomb and Well of Okiku Despite being thought of as a fictitious figure, Okiku from Bancho Sarayashiki has her own tomb and well in Tokyo. While the well remains a mystery, it has been the inspiration for many ukiyo-e, including Katsushika Hokusai’s famous 1831 print.

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Younji Temple Along with Oiwa-Inari Tamiya Shrine, Younji Temple is dedicated to the famous yurei Oiwa.

fun with Japanese ghosts, giant monsters, ninjas Tokyo Trick Art Museum: Photographic and time travel, all under one roof! —Tokyo Trick Art Museum

rick art uses visual illusions, making the viewer feel like they are part of the artwork itself or tricking the mind and changing visitors’ perspective on the piece. Trick Art actually originated in Japan, making a visit to this place similar to a Mecca of illusion! Anyone can meet spiritual creatures and monsters from legends and tales in Tokyo Trick Art Museum!

Located on the 4 th floor of DECKS Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall at Odaiba, the museum is separated into themed areas, such as the Edo period, ninja and Japanese ghosts; famous artwork; and brain training. The Edo area offers — as you might have guessed – illusions from the Edo period such as scenes of street life, or sitting outside a traditional cafe. More active visitors can also take pictures of themselves riding a tiger that comes out of a folding

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screen, or leaping high in the air to avoid a ninja trap. In the monster area, many traditional and famous Japanese monsters are also waiting to meet guests.

For those of you not used to taking snapshots, the museum offers bilingual instructions on how to pose dramatically and the best angle to take the photo from.

You can also download the museum’s own “TRICKAR” app on your smartphone and take videos and photos with AR technology to see your portrait come to life. It may be called a museum, but it’s a far cry from the average museum experience, making it a must for anyone visiting Odaiba! ❶ Yuki-Onna (Snow Woman) On a snowy day, the snow woman entered the farmhouse. Her breath alone is enough to freeze a person.

❷ Aka-Oni (Red Demon) in Japanese folklore This terrifying-looking red demon always invites people to drink sake with him. The red demon of Japanese legends may look frightening, but he’s gentle and has a sense of humor.

❸ Karasu Tengu (Japanese goblin)

This creature has a crow’s beak and wings, and dresses like a mountain priest. The karasu tengu has broken through the sliding door! Run! Hours: 11am-9pm Closed irregularly (Last admission 8:30pm) Admission: 600 JPY for children between 4 and 14, 1,000 JPY for adults Access: 2-min walk from Odaiba-kaihinkoen Station on the Yurikamome Line Address: 4F DECKS Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo Website: www.trickart.info/

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