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The Untouched Soul of Shitamachi

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暦 Koyomi 1 st Januar y

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

Hatsumode

初詣

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

The Japanese New Year starts with the tolling of the temple bells known as Joyanokane. Temples throughout Japan start ringing their bells on December 31st a few minutes before midnight to help usher in the New Year. According to Buddhist beliefs, the solemn sound of the bell rids people from evil desires, anger and obsession, and purifies their soul for the upcoming year.

On the morning of New Year’s Day, the head of the family used to get water from a well or tap and offer it to the Shinto altar in the house as a way to pay respect to the god of the year. This particular water is called Wakamizu, the first water of the year, and is believed to give rejuvenating power

to people. Later the water would be shared among family members so as to drink in the holy power of wakamizu.

These old traditions are the origins of a modern custom called Hatsumode, the first visit to a shrine or temple. As times change, there are fewer families who own Shinto altars in their houses. So instead, they would go to nearby shrines and temples, or go to famous ones to welcome the New Year. Many people assume Hatsumode is a centuries-old tradition, but it was only relatively recently that people started visiting sacred places on New Year’s Day. Though customs have changed, the intrinsic nature of welcoming a new year by facing a lucky direction and praying to

the gods remains the same. After all, as they say in Japan the “New Year’s Day is the key to having a good year.” At temples, visitors walk to the main hall, ring the bell, make offerings and pray. Some of them write their wishes on wooden plaques and hang them up, try a fortune slip or purchase a decorative arrow that wards off evil. Hatsumode is now one of the most practiced New Year customs among Japanese people. What better way to ring in the New Year.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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ANOTHER SIDE OF TOKYO: TRADITIONAL YET MYSTIFYING 03 08

In Harmony with the Seasons

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The Untouched Soul Of Shitamachi Shibamata & the towns of Tokyo that keep the old norms alive – Shibamata: Explore the good old Japanese downtown culture in suburban Tokyo – Kiyosumi-shirakawa•Monzen-nakacho: A different but traditional Tokyo

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The Untouched Soul Of

People around the world tend to think of Japanese culture

Although Asakusa and the Sumida River are beautiful

as very monolithic and homogenous. But the truth is that

places to visit, over the years, they became too famous. This

Japan’s modern identity is a complex mix of the country’s

unfortunately doesn’t let you fully experience that authentic

two old cultural heritages: yamanote and shitamachi.

“underground” atmosphere that once made the areas so well-loved. For that, you would need to head on up to

They were born around the 17th century when the Japanese

Shibamata, a neighborhood in northeastern Tokyo and the

government moved to Tokyo and the city’s population divided

home of Tora-san —the living, though fictional, embodiment

into two. On the one side, you had the powerful clergy and

of shitamachi.

the rich feudal lords who resided in Tokyo’s more affluent, mountainous regions known as yamanote (“mountain

Torajiro Kuruma, known as Tora-san and played by Atsumi

hands”). Then you had the blue-collar city dwellers like

Kiyoshi, was the main protagonist of 48 movies in the "Otoko

tradesmen, merchants, and prostitutes, who stayed closer

Wa Tsurai Yo" film series, which translates to “It’s tough being

to Tokyo’s inner-city area, which, together with its distinct

a man.” The premise —as summarized by the title —might be

culture, came to be known as shitamachi (“under town”).

debatable, but it was true in the case of Tora-san, a lovable vagabond who traveled all around the countr y selling

Today, yamanote and shitamachi are seen as equally

his knickknacks and toys before his big mouth or drunken

important elements of contemporary Japan. But there is no

behavior forced him to head on back home. For all his

contest as to which of the two is seen as more fun. When

faults and tramp-like appearance, Tora-san was always fun,

you think of good and cheap street food, rows and rows of

optimistic, and just larger than life. He wasn’t sophisticated,

local shops, restaurants, bars etc., and people just being

but deep down he had a good hear t, and that ’s what

their authentic, unrestrained, jolly selves, you are thinking of

shitamachi is ultimately all about. It’s no surprise then that

shitamachi Japan. That’s why tourists flock by the thousands

the character was written as a native of Shibamata.

every year to places like Asakusa’s Nakamise Shopping Street or the historic areas around the Sumida River. That’s where

"Otoko Wa Tsurai Yo" has been a huge hit in Japan, but it’s

shitamachi was born, after all. But it’s not really there anymore.

not very well-known abroad, making Shibamata something of

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Shitamachi - Shibamata & the towns of Tokyo that keep the old norms alive -

東 京 下 町

By Cezary Strusiewicz

Connecting Shibamata and Matsudo (Chiba Prefecture) across the Edo River, the Yagiri-no-Watashi is a ferry famous for its appearance in the Otoko Wa Tsurai Yo films and the fact that it’s been operating, in different forms, for more than 400 years. It can take a maximum of 30 passengers, and takes about 10 minutes to cross the river, none of which will be disturbed by the sound of the motor because the ferry doesn’t use one. It’s entirely manpowered. It’s also hard to find, doesn’t connect to anything important on the other side, and is occasionally closed without prior notice. So, why

a local, hidden treasure. The area severely lacks foreign

do people use it? Because Tora-san used it.

tourists, which has allowed it to remain mostly unchanged from when the first Tora-san movie came out in 1969.

But also, the Yagiri-no-Watashi crossing really lets you

Meaning the neighborhood you can visit today is still one that

capture the feeling of how life in a shitamachi area used to

Atsumi Kiyoshi’s character would find very familiar.

be—slow, not without its difficulties, but also more communal and down to earth. You can see how that would appeal to

For example, one of the places that the character adored

people all around Japan. But not just Japan, as "Otoko Wa

was the Shibamata Taishakuten temple, still located at the

Tsurai Yo" does have its fans abroad. Most notably in Helmut

end of the neighborhood’s main shopping street. It’s where

Zilk, the mayor of Vienna between 1984 and 1994, who loved

Tora-san liked to go and unwind after another trip where

the series so much that he actually had his city’s Floridsdorf

he met colorful people, fell in love, said or did something stupid, and then returned home to tell everyone about it.

district sign a friendship pact with Katsushika Ward, where 2 Shibamata is located. Today, there is even a 3,000m park in

He especially enjoyed the temple’s woodcarvings depicting

Floridsdorf bearing the name “Tora-San-Park.”

scenes from sacred Buddhist texts that he may not have fully understood, but which he knew he liked. It was the same with

What seems to draw people to Tora-san, and really just

the serene Suikei-en garden at the back of the temple. Even

the shitamachi culture in general, is that they are familiar

the road leading up to Taishakuten hasn’t really changed

and honest. There is of course nothing wrong with Japan’s

that much, as it has retained its yesteryear charm what with

more sophisticated and highbrow cultural contributions like

its little shops and stalls still using wooden signboards and

traditional paintings, theater etc., and if that’s what you’re

selling traditional food and crafts. Only now, many of them

after, there are many places around the country where you

naturally feature Tora-san’s likeness.

can experience it. But if you’re looking for a more down to earth and jovial piece of Japan, then Shibamata and its

If you wish to continue retracing Tora-san’s steps, you can head down to the famous Yagiri-no-Watashi boat crossing.

shitamachi soul seem like just the place for you. If you ever have the chance, check it out and say “Hi” to the Tora-san statue located just outside Shibamata Station.

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柴又

Shibamata:

Explore the good old Japanese downtown culture in suburban Tokyo

Tokyo is not all about glamourous sights and cutting-edge innovations. Visit Shibamata, one of the shitamachi (downtown neighborhood) in Tokyo, and you will discover a whole new way of looking at this metropolis. Located just on the east side of the former Edo castle, the traditional neighborhood thrived as an entertainment hub for commoners in the Edo period (1603-1868) and was known as a town that developed around the Shibamata Taishakuten Temple. This is a great place to step back in time, explore the beauty of historic architecture and experience the authenticity of locals.

The introduction of Shibamata would not be complete without mentioning Tora-san, the protagonists of the popular “Otoko Wa Tsurai Yo” movie series. You might not have heard of the man, but yellowed movie posters and black-and-white photos of him can be found in every corner of the main path and shops selling traditional kusa dango (mugwort rice dumplings). Thanks to Tora-san, the neighborhood’s nostalgic charm has escalated to a whole new level.

Getting Shibamata Town: All of the places are within walking distance from Shibamata Station. Take the Keisei Main Line from KeiseiUeno or Nippori Station to Keisei-Takasago Station (15 minutes) and transfer to the Keisei Kanamachi Line for Shibamata (2 minutes).

Shibamata Taishakuten Temple:

Preservation of Edo belief for nearly 390 years

Formally named Kyoei-zan Daikyoji and founded in 1629, Taishakuten temple gets its name from Taishakuten – Indra – and is known for helping worshippers get rid of bad luck. At the end of 18 th century, this temple started to gain attention and led Shibamata into a prosperous temple-town. Aside from saying prayers, visitors can also lay eyes on a gorgeous pine tree and ten panels of wood carvings depicting portions of the Lotus Sutra on the outer wall of the inner chamber. While here, it ’s recommended that you stroll through the Suikeien Garden to see how religion is embedded in present-day landscape.

Hours: [Wood Carvings Gallery/Suikeien Garden] 9am-4pm Admission: 400 JPY Adult / 200 JPY Elementary and middle school students [both the Wood Carvings Gallery and Suikeien Garden] Address: 7-10-3 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www.taishakuten.or.jp

Yagiri-no-watashi Ferry: Linking the past with the present After visiting the Taishakuten temple, walk in the direction of Edo River and you will encounter a ferr y crossing that has been in operation since the Edo period. Small wooden rowboats are used to transport locals between Tokyo’s Katsushika ku and Chiba’s Matsudo shi—the old-fashioned way. There were as many as 15 ferry crossings in the past, but now this is the only place in Tokyo where such service is still available.

Join other tourists on a ride across the 150-meter wide river and immerse yourself in the historical charm of Shibamata.

Hours: 10am-4pm every day in summer, 10am-4pm on weekends, holidays and specific days on the calendar in winter. Admission: 200 JPY Adult / 100 JPY Children, (one way) Address: 7-18 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tok yo Website: http://w w w.katsushika-kanko.com/guide/scene/spot _1247.php ( Japanese)

Yamamoto-tei Garden: An elegant western mansion with a Japanese twist After undergoing several renovations between 1926 and 1930, the stunning Yamamoto-tei now offers traditional Japanese architecture with a sophisticated western touch.

Ranked third in Sukiya Living—a renowned American magazine with over 1,000 Japanese gardens dedicated to Japanese gardens, Yamamoto-tei embodies the harmony of east and west. Evergreen plants and shrubs in the garden are a wonderful sight to behold that will keep you entertained for the entire day.

Hours: 9am-5pm Admission: 100 JPY, free entry for middle school students or under and people with disability pass Address: 7-19-32 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www.katsushika-kanko.com/yamamoto/eng/ 10

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Shibamata Haikara Yokocho & Toy Museum: A collection of traditional toys and sweets Katsushika once thrived as the location for toy factories in Tokyo, so the ward is no stranger to toys —especially celluloid dolls, which were first made there. The toy museum is the perfect place to unleash the child within you. On the first floor, the small shop displays a wide variety of candies and game machines from the good old days. Let your curiosity guide you through the maze of sweets!

Hours: 10am-7pm Address: 7-3-12 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www2.odn.ne.jp/shibamata/index.html ( Japanese)

Matsuya-no-ame Sohonten: Candy-cutting tuned to music Matsuya-no-ame started its business in 1868 in Fukagawa and later moved to the Taishakuten area to become the only candy shop in town. With more than a hundred years of experience, the shop specializes in making soothing hard candies and red bean flavored candies. From fall to the end of spring, pastry chefs would perform “amekiri-ondou” (candy-cutting set to music) in public on weekends and holidays. The iconic rhythm of chopping candies by cleavers is recognized as one of the 100 best sounds representing Japan by the Japanese government.

Hours: 8:30am-5pm Address: 7-6-17 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www.ni.bekkoame.ne.jp/matsuyaame/ ( Japanese)

Katsushika Shibamata Tora-san Museum: Life in shitamachi truthfully presented "Otoko Wa Tsurai Yo" (It’s Tough Being a Man) is the longest running movie series according to the Guinness Book of World Records, with 48 episodes filmed over a two-decade period. Today, the movie serves as a precious memoir of Shibamata architecture and life from the 1960s to 1990s. The museum opened after the passing away of the actor who starred as Torasan and displays all kinds of props and movie sets. Don’t miss out on the chance to learn about the shitamachi culture in Shibamata by paying a visit in person.

Hours: 10am-5pm Admission: 500 JPY Adult / 300 JPY Elementary and middle school students / 300 JPY 65 years or older (The combo ticket of both Yamamototei and Tora-san museum is 50 JPY discount in total) Address: 6-22-19 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www.katsushika-kanko.com/tora/ ( Japanese)

Taishakuten Specialty: Kusa Dango When Tokyoites think of Shibamata, mugwort dango is among the first things that pop to mind. In the past, local farmers could only afford to make dumplings out of poor quality rice. To improve the taste and color, people would add mugwort to the blend. Worshippers of Taishakuten at the end of the Edo period were so impressed with the delicacy that the path leading to the temple began to be filled with mugwort dango stands.

Today, there are six mugwort dango shops on both sides of the path, each advertising a slightly different taste.

Takagiya Established in 1868, this long-standing confectioner y shop ser ves freshly-made, aromatic mugwort rice dumplings with a traditional character. Topped with red bean paste painstakingly made from Hokkaido’s Tokachi beans, this traditional recipe has been time-tested and found irresistible. You can also choose from other flavors or have a try at Shibamata-mochi, a mugwort rice cake with red bean fillings. Confectionery making course taught by professionals are available upon reservation.

Hours: 7am-5:30pm (reservation is required for confectionery making course) Address: 7-7-4 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www.takagiya.co.jp/index.html ( Japanese)

Kameya Honpo The rice dumpling shop in the movie “Otoko Wa Tsurai Yo” was actually a replica of Kameya Honpo, an old establishment that dates back to 1910. Besides classic mugwort rice dumplings, there is a list of seasonal exclusive items to choose from. Mugwort rice dumpling ice cream is one of their best sellers.

Hours: 9pm-5:30pm on weekdays, 9am-6pm on weekends Address: 7-7-9 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Website: http://www.kameyahonpo.com/index.html ( Japanese)

清澄白河 門前仲町 Kiyosumi-shirakawa•Monzen-nakacho

A different but traditional Tokyo

Located in a triangle formed by Sumida River, Arakawa River and Tokyo Bay, the Kyosumi-shirakawa and Monzennakacho areas are easily accessible by subway. It belonged the Fukagawa ward in the past but now lies in the western side of the Koto ward. To Japanese youngsters, Kiyosumi-shirakawa means a cluster of chic and trendy coffee shops. However, a walk from Kiyosumi-shirakawa to Monzen-nakacho will take you to the nostalgic downtown and transport you back in time.

Monzen-nakacho thrived as a neighborhood frequented by pilgrims hundreds of years ago. It is home to Tomioka Hachimangu, a Shinto shrine with about 400 years of history, and Fukagawa Fudo-do, a temple that dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868). Walking down Ninjo-Fukagawa-Goriyaku-dori, a path that leads to the prestigious temple, one can still feel the warmth and hospitality of the locals. Despite the neighborhood’s fading glory, its existence is a witness to the spectacular past and the ever-evolving future of Tokyo.

Kiyosumi Teien (Kiyosumi Gardens) MAP-1

Designed in “Kaiyu-style” in the Meiji period (1868-1912) to facilitate wandering around, Kiyosumi Gardens features a large artificial pond, around which are beautiful manmade hills and rare stones. The garden took its original shape when it served as the residence for the lord of Sekiyado in Shimousa (located east of Tokyo) in Edo Period (1603-1868). Today, all are welcome to this timeless garden for a mesmerizing view of nature. Kiyosumi Gardens, once a getaway for the privileged, is now celebrated as an ideal destination for a quick getaway from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.

Fukagawa Edo Museum MAP-2 Although Kiyosumi-shirakawa has developed a reputation as a haven for coffee lovers, you can also live a day in the life of an Edo commoner here by visiting the Fukagawa Edo Museum. A trip through its indoor museum which features and actual life-size reproduction of the alleys in Fukagawa Sagacho at the end of the Edo period (1830-1844) is like stepping into a time machine. Venture into the houses and feel what it’s like to be a Japanese citizen who lived 200 years ago. There are many Englishspeaking volunteers ready to answer your questions and assist you.

Fukagawa-meshi Fukagawajuku Honten MAP-3 Although Kiyosumi-shirakawa has developed a reputation as a haven for coffee, Fukagawa-meshi is the area’s signature dish and is something you should never miss when in town. The dish was first made as a kind of fast-food for fishermen in Edo-era who sailed to Tokyo Bay to catch shellfish and seaweed. Named as one of the 100 best local cuisines in Japan, this local delight is made by pouring soup with a generous amount of short-neck clams (Asari) onto rice. Miso is added nowadays during the cooking process to give rice a fuller flavor.

Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine MAP-4 Founded in 1627, the 390-year-old Tomioka Hachimangu is the largest shrine of its kind in Tokyo. It is known for holding the annual Fukagawa Hachiman Matsuri, one of the three greatest festivals of Edo, along with the Sanno and Kanda festivals. It is also said to be the birthplace of Kanjin-zumo* so the premises have stone monuments inscribed with the names of all the successive yokozunas—sumo wrestlers who have reached the sport’s highest rank. The path leading to the shrine has a nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of the past. * At the end of the Edo period, the temple started Kanjin-zumo as a way to increase its income.

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Tamakiya MAP-5 With a history of nearly 100 years, this marvelous kimono shop balances tradition and creativity by making kimonos and accessories out of denim cloth. Tamakiya does not believe that this classic Japanese wear can only be formal and regal. Instead, they explore the idea of casual kimonos with their unique designs. Denim kimonos are the perfect example of how tradition can be matched with innovation. Try some on and see how it brings out your personality.

Kanmidokoro Irie MAP-6 Founded in the Showa period (1926-1989), the shop changed its business from making konnyaku and kanten to selling Japanese t r a d i t i o n a l s w e e t s i n t h e 1970 s . T h e i r specialties include anmitsu—a Japanese d e s s e r t m a d e w i t h z e r o - c a l o r i e a g a r, Hokkaido’s Tokachi red bean paste and a good drizzle of black sugar syrup. A tour through the delicious histor y of Japanese sweets would not be complete without a taste of this scrumptious treat.

Fukagawa Winery MAP-7 This quaint establishment is nicely tucked in the alleys of Fukagawa with relaxed atmosphere which fits perfectly with the aesthetic of the old downtown neighborhood. In July, the owner opened an outdoor wine garden on the roof of a business building nearby, hoping to introduce the fun and enjoyment of wine drinking to more people. Customers can see the ripening process of grapes hanging on vines—a rare sight at the heart of the city. A visit here will have you coming back again for their unique Japanese red wine.

Another grand garden at the heart of downtown Tokyo Japanese Sword Museum MAP-8 Japanese swords are not only weapons, they also symbolize religion, authority and aesthetic achievement. Right next to the former Yasuda Garden is the Japanese Sword Museum, a place to appreciate the enchanting beauty of the famous Japanese weaponry. These two destinations are strongly recommended for those seeking an unforgettable samurai experience.

Former Yasuda Garden MAP-9 Yasuda Garden is located in downtown shitamachi area and believed to be built by a former lord. The architecture was destroyed by the Great Kanto Earthquake and World War II. After several efforts of reconstruction, the garden has regained its splendor as a “Kaiyu-style” garden marked with classic bridges, and Japanese stone lanterns. The scenery changes with each season, offering visitors a feast for the eyes.

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