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Spring 2020 VOL.32

Special Feature 1

From Edo Castle to the Imperial Palace

Special Feature 2

The Antiquity of Himeji

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In Harmony with the Seasons

Feature 1

From Edo Castle to the Imperial Palace

Publisher

JAPANESE PRODUCTS PRODUCE, INC. 1405 Marcekina Ave. #104, Torrance, CA 90501 TEL: 310-782-8279 Email:info@washockusa.com

Editor in Chief Naohisa Nakada

- The History of the Heart of Tokyo

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- Start your day off right with the Imperial Palace Run

Contents provided by

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Feature 2

The Antiquity of Himeji - Himeji Castle – A Timeless Cultural Icon - Shoshazan Engyoji Temple - Achieving a Zen State of Mind

Yasuko Suzuki

Editorial & Design

WAttention Editorial Team Japan & Singapore

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- Nature and Tradition - Side Trip Worth Taking

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Why “WAttention”?

WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA（ 和 ）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世 界 中 の 人々に「 和 」（WA） に 注 目（Attention）してほしいという願 いを込 めて WA+Attention= WAttention と名づけました。

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こよみを楽しむ

暦 Koyomi December and Januar y

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

K aki zome 2nd Januar y 書き初め

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、 写真:渡辺肇

On the 2nd of January, many Japanese

These artworks were burned in the

author as she welcomed the New Year.

people practice Kakizome, the first

holy fire known as Dondo Yaki on the 15th

calligraphy writing of their New Year’s

of January. Only when the smoke rises high

resolution on a fresh sheet of white

in the sky and the drawings are completely

blank sheet of paper in front of us, let’s ask

paper. Over the centuries, writing was

gone, does the god grant their wish.

oneself what it is that we really want for the

only practiced among the aristocrats and the ability to write and draw was seen as

With a fresh calligraphy brush and a

New Year. This quiet time is sure to bring This picture shows the first sentence

a peaceful self-reflection; our ancestors

something very special and admirable. It

of the famous story “Makura No Soshi (The

certainly knew how to welcome the New

was at the end of the Edo period (1603–1867)

Pillow Talk)” written by Sei Shonagon (966?-

Year.

when common people started learning how

1025?), a female author during the Heian

to write. As each New Year arrived, many

Period (794-1185). It means “in spring it is

were determined to improve their writing

the dawn that is most beautiful,” which is a

and drawing skills and would dedicate their

perfect sentence for the beginning of a new

own calligraphy and drawings to shrines.

season. You can feel the excitement of the

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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From Edo Castle to the Imperial Palace The History of the Heart of Tokyo

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12

D 14

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9

8 7 A

B

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4

6

C

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In the Edo shogunate(1603-1868) 1 Main Gate 2 Nijubashi Bridge 3 Fushimi Yagura (Turret) 4 SakashItamon Gate 5 Fujimi Yagura (Turret) 6 Kikyomon Gate 7 Hasuike-bori Moat 8 Fujimi Tamon 9 Nagayamon Gate 10 Shimo-dokan-nori Moat 11 Nishihanebashimon Gate 12 Inui-bori Moat 13 Inuimon Gate 14 Hanzo-bori Moat 15 Hanzomon Gate 16 Sakurada-bori Moat

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3 2

After the Meiji period (1868-) A Imperial Palace B Gosho (present emperor’s private palace) C Kyuchu Sanden (three shrines for all the past Emperors) D Fukiage Omiya Gosho (private palace of late Emperor Showa)

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A s Japan enters into a new era and welcomes a new emperor, the grounds around the Tokyo Imperial Palace will become much busier. That’s because for the foreseeable future, Emperor Naruhito will be “commuting” to what should be his official residence as he and his father continue to swap residences, a process that’ll most likely take years. This will surely result in more traffic and an uptick in security around the center of Japan’s capital. But that’s hardly news. It’s actually how the area has been for the better part of its history.

Today the Tokyo Imperial Palace, known as Kokyo in Japanese, is a large estate in the Chiyoda-ku where the Japanese Emperor lives, performs his duties, and welcomes foreign dignitaries. It contains official residences, museums, administrative offices, and spacious gardens—only a small part of which are opened to the public except on special occasions like the emperor’s birthday. Despite its importance and a connection to one of the oldest royal families on the planet, most of the Imperial Palace is brand-new, going back no further than half a century to when it was on the remains of what was once Edo Castle.

People gathered to accompany a daimyo’s (feudal lord’s) procession outside of the main gate of the former Edo Castle (The Sakashitamon Gate)

Daimyo's (feudal lord's) procession in front of the Kikyomon Gate

View of the Nijubashi Bridge from the modernized street in Meiji period

Nijubashi Bridge connects the main gate of the Imperial Palace

Map of Edo around 1840's

Great feudal lords have been occupying the area of what is today central Tokyo since at least the 12 th century when Edo Shigetsugu built his residence there. The Edo family was eventually wiped out, but their legacy lived on for centuries in the form of Edo Castle. Initially called Chiyoda Castle, the grand fortress was built on the site of Shigetsugu’s residence in 1457 by the engineering monk Dokan Ota. However, it wasn’t until Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa moved the center of his administration to Edo during the early 17 th century that the castle became a city within a city.

A total of 40,000 people worked on turning Edo Castle into the largest fortification of its time. By the time the construction was completed in 1636, Edo Castle had a perimeter of about 16 km, was surrounded by 12m-tall walls, had 20m-tall ramparts, and housed nearly 150,000 people, a number of palaces, shrines, and military installations. Most of the building materials and the workforce were supplied by feudal lords showing their support for the Tokugawa clan. The richest were expected to supply the castle with gigantic granite stones transported from far-away lands while everyone else provided the men for digging moats and reclaiming lands around the fortification, which slowly started to become an extension of the castle.

The Kikyo Yagura (Turret) of Edo Castle is seen from outside

During the 19 th century Meiji Restoration, Japan’s shogunate was abolished and the emperor was returned to power. To symbolize this, in 1868 the emperor left Kyoto’s Imperial Palace and moved to Edo Castle, which back then was also known as Tokei Castle and later on as the Imperial Castle. After a series of fires to the castle palaces in the late 1800s, the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, and WWII bombings, soon almost nothing remained of the original structure. So, in 1968 the Imperial Palace that we know today was constructed basically from nothing using modern technology.

BYLINE: Cezary Jan Strusiewicz

For more in depth infomation, scan the QR code

Start your day off right with the Imperial Palace Run From professional athletes to casual sports enthusiasts, people love jogging around the Imperial Palace. The path around the palace is regarded by joggers as the place to run and is known as kokyo-ran, or the “Imperial Palace Run.” The Imperial Palace was originally the castle of the Tokugawa Shogunate during the Edo period, which then placed a moat around the castle. The 5km path along the moat is not broken up by any stoplights, making it a great place for joggers to run without interruptions.

What really makes the Imperial Palace Run so remarkable is all the wonderful sights you can see. There is greenery, the modern architecture of the city, historical buildings, and famous landmarks; such as the Kokyogaien National Gardens, the Nippon Budokan, The National Theatre, the National Diet Building, Sakuradamon, and the business district stretching from Yurakucho to Marunouchi leading to the Tokyo Station Marunouchi Station Building. Must-see places in Tokyo are everywhere you look, and then there is the area around the moat as well.

Many people jog before work

Sakuradamon Gate

Another great aspect of the Imperial Palace Run is the ransute, or “running stations.” Running stations are facilities found throughout the path offering a wide range of services, such as showers, lockers, and rentals for jogging wear and running shoes. You can just show up and still find everything you need for a good jog.

For example, just a 3-minute walk from the Hanzomon Station is the “JOGLIS” running station. With a spot right in front of the Imperial Palace, it boasts the largest number of lockers and showers of any station, with plenty of supplies and gear for rent. There is even a cafe space to relax in after you finish exercising. This makes JOGLIS the perfect facility for tourists to use when enjoying the Imperial Palace Run.

JOGLIS

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Going for a lap on the Imperial Palace Run when you visit Tokyo is a great way to enjoy the city, just make sure you follow this one rule – all joggers should run counter-clockwise along the path. It is also good to keep in mind that the path around the palace is not a designated jogging course.

Its primary function is for walking, with weekends being crowded with locals and tourists, so be courteous to others as you get your workout.

Unveiling the New National Stadium for TOKYO 2020 On November 2019, construction of the New National Stadium will be complete. This will be the main stadium for the Olympic and Paralympic Games Tokyo 2020, holding the opening and closing ceremonies and matches for events like Track & Field. With innovative designs from the renowned architect Kengo Kuma, the former stadium is being rebuilt to host Tokyo’s second Summer Olympics Games.

The New National Stadium has been generating buzz over its audacious wooden construction, using wood from all over Japan. Like viewing temples, shrines, or other Japanese wooden architecture, the stadium conjures up a sense of calm and balance with its surroundings. Inside the stadium, the visual theme for the seating area is “rays of sunlight trickling down through the leaves of a forest,” with a gradation of five earthy colors. To reduce construction costs, there will be no air conditioning for the seating areas, but large-scale eaves will be installed above to shade and draw in wind to cool audiences.

The circumference of the moat of the Imperial Palace

Nippon Budokan

Chiyoda City Tourist Information

National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo

The New Japan National Stadium AD_OMOTENASHI_RUNNING_TKY33.pdf 1 2019/08/14 Scheduled for completion in November 2019.16:30:38 Site Area: Approx.

113,000m2, Building Area: Approx. 72,400m2, Total Floor Area: Approx.

194,000m2, Height: Approx. 47.4m

Imperial Palace Running Tour

Chidorigafuchi Hanzomon St.

C

Imperial Palace

M

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JOGLIS

Tokyo St.

CM

MY

National Theatre

Sakuradamon Gate

OMOTENASHI runners will guide you on the Imperial Palace running tour!

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CMY

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National Diet Building

OMOTENASHI Runner Associa�on www.kokyorun-navi.com

+813-3222-5543

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The Antiquity of

Himeji

Himeji Hiroshima

Kobe Osaka Kyoto

Tokyo

Okayama

Located just west of Kobe in Hyogo Prefecture, Himeji is a city with historical significance that permeates throughout its incredible culture. From the shining world heritage site of Himeji Castle to the secluded Shoshazan Engyoji Temple, the rich tapestry of Himeji’s past is on full display for you to discover.

The Sunrise and the Himeji Castle from the top of Mt. Otokoyama in the Otokoyama Haisuiike Park.

Himeji Castle – A Timeless Cultural Icon Himeji Castle lies at the center of Himeji City, and from the moment you step outside of Himeji Station, you can see the castle gleaming in the distance perched atop Mt. Himeyama. There’s a comforting familiarity to the castle, which might be because it’s featured so often in Japanese and overseas media. As you move through Himeji, you can feel Himeji Castle standing guard, quietly watching over the city.

Spectacular Sunrises

In the land of the rising sun, you can expect to see some epic sunrises, and the view of Himeji Castle’s silhouette against the horizon does not disappoint. Perhaps the best vantage point is atop Mt. Otokoyama. You’ll need to climb 198 steps to reach the summit, witnessing the sun crest over the horizon at dawn, slowly forming a monumental silhouette of the castle in the foreground against a vivid backdrop of orange, pink and red hues, is a spectacular sight that is well worth the effort. You’ll find plenty of photographers hoping to capture the nuances of the sunrises in each season, as the position of the sun and clouds gradually shift throughout the year. From the nearby Nagoyamareien Hill observation deck, it is said that when the sun is situated behind the silhouette of the castle’s upper roof the overlapping shapes resembles either a pair of glasses or the head of the popular superhero, Ultraman. There are eight amazing spots circling the castle, which allow you to view it from different sides, as well as through mirrored reflections. All eight locations can be easily reached by rental bicycles available around the city.

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On the Castle Grounds

Once you make your way inside the castle grounds, the great scale of the 700-year-old Himeji Castle becomes apparent. The main keep built 400 years ago consists of four main buildings – one Dai-Tenshu (big keep) and three Sho-Tenshu (small keep) - joined by watari-yagura corridors, with the Dai-Tenshu being the largest building. Two massive support pillars run through the center of the Dai-Tenshu, with the East pillar having existed since the original construction. Himeji Castle was built to be a massive feudal era fortress, with many of the design choices made strictly for fending off invaders. Only a single moat surrounds the castle now, however, at one time it was part of a trio of moats that extended as far as Himeji Station. The triangle, circle and square holes cut in the walls may look decorative, but they are actually strategic positions for archers and riflemen. A path may seem to lead to a dead end, but that is just an optical illusion to deceive any wouldbe attackers. Inside the castle you’ll find platforms on the third and fourth floors meant for dropping heavy stones on enemies unlucky enough to get too close. Some designs, though, like the different crests on display throughout the structure, serve a more symbolic function. These crests represent the different families that held power during the castle’s construction or renovation. Whether you prefer to discover the castle grounds with a traditional guided tour or the AR phone app, both are in English, so you won’t miss any of the castle’s fascination history as you slowly explore its large looming pathways.

The Himeji Castle reflected on the wall of the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of History.

The Himeji Castle and the reflection of the castle from the North corner of the Himeji City Zoo.

One of the nine gardens in Koko-en.

Koko-en

At Koko-en, you can immerse yourself in nine beautiful Zen gardens, each with landscaped greenery and tranquil ponds, and with views of Himeji Castle in the background, the scenery is simply breathtaking.

You can also enjoy a traditional Japanese lunch of local specialties such as anago don (salt-water eel over rice) while overlooking the gardens.

Shoshazan Engyoji Temple Achieving a Zen State of Mind

temple by taking a cable car up the Mt.Shosha and then a winding bus ride, or if you are adventurous, you can hike up the mountain to Shoshazan Engyoji Temple well. When you arrive, you can feel the spiritual power of the temple grounds, which have a sacred historical significance like the Himeji Castle. At this temple, monks practice Tendai Buddhism – a form of Buddhism that promotes the idea that we are all equal and can reach spiritual awakening. It also has amazing architecture, from the impressive Daikodo building, reserved for priests conducting special ceremonies, to the Jogyodo and Jikido buildings, where monks train in the ancient arts of zazen and shakyo.

Zazen

The Daikodo building viewing from the Jogyodo building in the Shoshazan Engyoji Temple.

The Maniden building in Shoshazan Engyoji Temple. Mani is a translation from Nyoi in Sanskrit which means As You Wish.

Many placid locations around Himeji offer wonderful places to escape the commotion of everyday life and find spiritual serenity. One such place is Shoshazan Engyoji Temple, a peaceful haven for meditation, deep in the forest of Mt. Shosha. The temple is steeped in spiritual antiquity and was well-known even before its famous appearance in the blockbuster Hollywood film The Last Samurai. You can reach the

The spiritual energy at Shoshazan Engyoji Temple has been recognized for over 2,000 years, making it an ideal spot for zazen meditation - the major meditative discipline of Zen Buddhist monks. The practice of zazen meditation is meant to unite the body and soul through proper posture, concentration, and breathing techniques. Monks describe the experience as if you were an ocean with waves crashing on the surface. As you thrust through the choppy surface and delve deeper and deeper into depths of yourself, things become more peaceful, quiet and still.

From there, your objective is to let go of everything around and inside you.

Shakyo

The practice of shakyo entails tracing ancient religious texts called sutras. Sutras play a major role in Buddhism, and it is believed that copying them reinforces the message of Buddha and is also a healthy stimulus for the mind. As sutras are age-old texts, it is quite common for those who copy them to not fully understand what they are writing, yet their significance remains with the writer. When visiting the temple, you can purchase simplified sutras to Shakyo in the Jogyodo. practice the art of shakyo yourself.

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A breathtaking view of the Seto Inland Sea from the top of a hill in Ieshima Island.

Nature and Tradition Himeji may be a modern city, but tradition and nature are intricately interwoven into the fabric of the area. You can see this among local artisans and shops that have been practicing their trades for over a century, as well as in the nearby island of Ieshima, where the quaint island townspeople lead a simpler way of life than those on the mainland.

A Modest Island Life on Ieshima Island

As the ferry carries you to Ieshima Island, you’ll notice the surrounding islands, with the largest two being Tangajima and Nishijima. Islands providing the main industry for the group of islands with quarrying, while shipping in Ieshima Island and fishing in Bozejima Island contribute to the local industry. The seafood here is not to be missed, as local restaurants offer sushi, sashimi and other seafood dishes that are rarely found elsewhere. One such dish is sabazushi (sushi made with local mackerel). As you walk through the town, you will notice two things: the town’s streets are small – the main street is barely large enough to accommodate a single car, many islanders use bicycles and motorbikes – and the cats, many lazily looking down from rooftops as residents quietly go about their daily business. One of the local attractions is a huge rock in the shape of a turtle. It is said that this turtle waited here for its master for so long that it eventually turned to stone. As you explore the island, you will come across Ieshima Shrine surrounded by native forests. From this highest-class shrine in Himeji City, you can get astonishing views of the ocean and neighboring islands. On a clear day from a nearby scenic area, you can even spot parts Himeji Castle off in the distance on the mainland.

The Torii Gate of the Ieshima Shrine.

The main street / Fishmonger on the Ieshima Island.

A Generational Brew at Nadagiku

At the Nadagiku Brewery, you can go on an in-depth tour of the facility and learn all about the ingredients and brewing methods they use for their sake products, but the brewery has so much more to offer. One thing that sets Nadagiku Brewery apart from others is their sakagura (storehouses) buildings. The sakagura buildings are used for modern purposes but also display artifacts and tools used to prepare sake many years ago. Another interesting area is the restaurant. Here you’ll see old wooden buckets hanging from the ceiling (these were once used to hold hot water to promote the proper bacteria needed for the fermentation process) and large, round wooden tables made from the lids of huge vats (originally used in the brewing process). Currently, the Nadagiku Brewery produces a wide variety of different sake beverages. There is even one with a Judo theme. This is because the great grand uncle of the current CEO was responsible for bringing the martial art of Judo to France. A small museum area in one of the sakagura features many photos and piece of memorabilia dedicated to 14

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The delicious seafood dishes and sabazushi.

An alley on both sides of which you can see old sakaguras in the Nadagiku Brewery.

One of old sakaguras in the Nadagiku Brewery.

The CEO of the Nadagiku Brewery and their products in sake barrels.

him. Before leaving, make sure to do some sake tasting in the shop.

There’s a great variety of sake to try that pairs perfectly with the local cuisines such as Himeji Oden (oden is a type of Japanese hot pot, but Himeji Oden adds its own flair to it by serving the dish with a ginger soy sauce) or pick up some otsumami (drinking snacks) from the Yamasa Kamaboko Yumesenkan. This local kamaboko (minced fish cake) factory sure to have a tasty match for Nadagiku’s special brews.

Stunning White Leather

The famous Himeji Oden – one eaten with soy sauce with ginger.

My first thought when looking at intricately painted leather goods in the Craft Gallery Ono was “Why do they only dye the leather white?” Many items adorn the store shelves, such as wallets, bags, coin purses and glasses cases, but the most striking thing is that all of the products are white. I found out that the technique used in creating this unique style of Himeji leather involves stretching and pulling the material for over 20 days to the point where the skin naturally takes on a white color. This process of leather making gives way to some gorgeous handbag, and the colors are added to the items using hand-painted designs. The white leather is very strong, and it has been historically used for drum skins and kendo shinai (practice swords) .

In the Yamasa Kamaboko Yumesenkan, you can try a wide range of mouth-watering foods made of fish cake.

The beautiful pieces made of white leather in the Craft Gallery Ono.

Side Trip Worth Taking Himeji has plenty of main attractions to keep you busy, but if you have some gaps in your itinerary, why not try filling them in with some laid-back excursions, like a visit to relaxing hot spring or a trip down memory lane at toy museum?

Japan Toy Museum

Just a 15-minute train ride from Himeji Station brings you to Koro Station. This unassuming neighborhood is host to the Japan Toy Museum. Composed of six traditional-style warehouses, this museum displays over 90,000 items, including both toys from Japan and other countries.

Special exhibitions highlight the differences in trends, design, and colors over time, as well as differences between toys from various countries. Some exhibitions are even seasonal, offering something new to see at different times of the year.

Inside (above) and the façade (right) of the Japan Toy Museum.

Shiota Hot Spring

Shiota Hot Spring is a great place to wind-down after a long day of sightseeing. It boasts a long history, with records of it dating as far back as 300 years ago. In the early 1900s, Shiota was recognized for its exceptional water quality, and the springs were further enhanced. The hot spring is surrounded by nature, offering the open-air baths stunning scenery throughout the year, such as cherry blossoms in the spring and fireflies lighting up the evenings in summer.

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The Yumenoi (above) and the Ueyama Ryokan (right) in the Shiota Hot Spring.

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To Ieshima Island

By Shinkansen bullet train (Hikari) From Tokyo Stn. 3h 35min. – 3h 42min.

From Kyoto Stn. 44min. – 59min.

From Shin-Osaka Stn. 29min. – 44min.

From Hiroshima Stn. 1h 4min. – 1h 46min.

By Bus From Kansai Airport 2h 20min.

By ferry From Port of Himeji about 30min.

More information: www.city.himeji.lg.jp (You can choose your language.)

5 Shoshazan Engyoji Temple 6 Port of Himeji

https://www.himeji-kanko. jp.e.adl.hp.transer.com/

7 Ieshima Island 8 Yamasa Kamaboko Yumesenkan 9 Nadagiku Sake Brewery

10 Craft Gallery Ono 11 Japan Toy Museum 12 Shiota Hot Spring

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