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Embrace the fiery energy of summer festivals

東北

TOHOKU SUMMER

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VOL.21

SUMMER in

TOHOKU 04

In Harmony with the Seasons

05

Tohoku: Embrace the fiery energy of summer festivals Delve deeper into the famous festivals celebrated in this region and more!

– The four big festivals of Tohoku – Tuck into local delights – Attractions and fun activities

12

Traverse Kyushu – Rail travel from north to south

Publisher

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Editor in Chief Kunio Yasui

Japan & Singapore Editorial Team Naoki Kiyota / Ayako Miyazaki Chew Yan Qiao / Lam Ying Wai Eric Voon / Yuka Suzuki / Kenji Ishida

Photographer

Hajime Watanabe

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WAttention Co., Ltd, WAon Pte Ltd

Cover Photo

Aomori Nebuta Festival

14

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WAttention is a publication of FLP YOMIKO Malaysia Sdn Bhd. All clticles published are in good f.-1:h and based on bonafide information available to Toe Publisher at the time of press. Toe Publisher accepts no responsibility other than that stipulated by law.

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Why “WAttention”?

WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA（ 和 ）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世 界 中 の 人々に「 和 」 （WA）に 注 目（Attention）してほしいという願 い を 込 め て WA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

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WAttention Malaysia |

3

暦Koyomi July and August

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

O-chūgen お中元

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

There is a long tradition in Japan for people to give gifts twice a year to those who have helped them; first in summer and again at the end of the year. The first occasion is called o-chūgen and the second o-seibo. Gifts of gratitude are given to those to whom people feel indebted, such as friends and business acquaintances.

Chūgen, meaning middle origin in Chinese, was first introduced to Japan from China, where the birthdays of Taoist gods are celebrated three times a year— 15 January, 15 July and 15 October. Thus, the birthdays are called sangen, meaning three origins in Chinese. In Japan, such a 4

| WAttention Malaysia

celebration is held only in the middle of July, when traditionally people pay formal respect to their ancestors.

Since summer is when water accidents and natural disasters happen most often, festivals are held to celebrate the gift of life.

Gratitude is not only given to ancestors but also to those who are still with us. Hence, the tradition of o-chūgen connotes the concept that “every individual is supported by many other people.”

Japanese often give wheat noodles as o-chūgen gifts, based on Chinese tradition. It is said that in the past, the son of a Chinese emperor, who died on 7 July , turned into

a ghost and an epidemic broke out soon after. To put an end to the epidemic, people offered candies made out of wheat flour to the ghost.

To this day, many people still make o-chūgen offerings. *The “o” in o-chūgen is a prefix applied when the word is politely paraphrased.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

Embrace the

SUMMER

FESTIVALS

AOMORI IWATE

東北

の 夏は

AKITA

がアツい!

AG ATA

Located in the north-eastern part of Japan’s Honshu island is a region known as Tohoku (東北).

Made up of six prefectures, it is known for its long and harsh winters. Perhaps the unavoidable cold has made the people in Tohoku appreciate summer season so much more, or they are naturally more passionate at heart. During summer festival period, it is plain to see that the Tohoku culture is rooted in fervency and zealousness, and her people warm-hearted and spirited.

fiery energy of

YAGI

FU

KU

S HI

MA

YA M

MI

TOKYO

ok 2011

©Ino WAttention Malaysia |

5

A spectacular festival celebrated at the height of

the warlord Sakanoue-no-Tamuramaro hid his soldiers in gigantic dolls

the summer session, this highly anticipated event

to bait his enemies. However, there is also another belief that the festival

features large, three-dimensional floats shaped

originated from the custom of neburi nagashi (ねぶり流し). During this annual

after famous historical and mythological Japanese

event, people would decorate silk trees and bamboo grasses with strips of

characters and is known as one of the most

paper with wishes written on them and floated them downstream. This was

colourful festivals In Japan.

also done to cast away drowsiness or sleepiness as they hindered farm work,

This memorable event is held from 2 to 7

which was the main trade of the people.

August yearly, and many of the enormous

Date: 2 - 7 Aug

floats you see are the efforts of local

Location: Central Aomori, near Aomori City Office (Nebuta Matsuri parade route)

craftsmanship. The floats are typically 5 to 10

Access: 5 mins from JR Aomori Station

metres tall and are constructed using delicate washi paper with a bamboo frame. Hundreds of light bulbs are then weaved into them as a finishing touch.

Unlike many of these festivals in Japan, onlookers are encouraged to participate in the festivities. Anyone who is wearing a traditional Haneto (ナネト) dancing costume can join in the feverish chant of “rassera” while dancing around the hand-pulled floats.

In recent years, the festival has began to reflect pop culture with Star Wars floats making appearances in the parades. The festivities come to a close on the seventh day with a grand fireworks display around Aomori Bay as the three best floats are transported and floated out to sea.

According to some, the origins of the festival date back to the Nara period (758 - 811), when

NEBUTA matsuri Aomori Prefecture

Tohoku's 4 Big MATSURI 6

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四大祭り long, colourful streamers that have people’s wishes attached to them in hopes that they will come true.

A series of seven paper decorations meant to bring good luck are also put up, each symbolising a

Sendai TANABATA matsuri Miyagi Prefecture

different aspect in life.

Tanzaku (短冊) – Long thin strips of paper tied to trees for luck in learning and writing.

Kamikoromo (紙衣) – Small paper kimonos to prevent sickness and calamity, as well as to pray for skillfulness in sewing.

Orizuru (折鶴) – Folded paper cranes to pray for longevity.

Kinchaku (巾着) – Made in the shape of a small drawstring bag or purse to cultivate the habit of saving money while praying for wealth.

Toami (投網) – The net represents the wish to catch an

Also known as the Star Festival, it originated from

abundance of fish.

the Chinese Qixi Festival and celebrates the meeting

Kuzukago (屑籠 ) – Made with the hope to nurture

of the deities Orihime (織姫 , Weaving Princess) and

frugality and cleanliness.

Hikoboshi (彦星 , Cowherd). Represented by the stars

Fukinagashi (吹き流し) – Symbolises Orihime’s weaving

Vega and Altair respectively, legend has it that the two

and to ask for improvement in skills.

were lovers separated by the Tennokawa (天の川, Milky

Alongside the main festivities held annually at

Way) and were only given one chance to meet every

the height of summer, live stage performances,

year on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month.

traditional dances and a fireworks display is held on

Celebration of this festival goes back to the Edo

the bank of the Hirosegawa River.

Period after the founding of Sendai City by samurai

Date: 6 - 8 Aug

warlord Masamune Date. It later fell into decline

Location: Central Sendai (general festivities), Sendai

during the Meiji Restoration and both World Wars,

Station to Chuo-dori Avenue (bamboo decorations),

but began to pick up again gradually.

Sendai Nishi Park (fireworks event)

In recent years, you will find large paper balls with

Access: 5 mins from JR Sendai Station WAttention Malaysia |

7

Established in 1964, this festival originated in Obanazawa City in Yamagata Prefecture. It is also known as the Flower Hat Parade because of a key item which features prominently — the hanagasa (花笠), a straw hat adorned with artificial safflowers. This flower, also called the benibana (紅花), was used mainly as a dye in the old days. Even now, the flowers are a sight to behold when they bloom during summer, covering the fields in brilliant shades of red and yellow.

The main draw of the festival is a parade of more than 10,000 dancers from 100 different groups. Each group dresses in matching costumes and hanagasa hats and performs a wide variety of dances that

HANAGASA matsuri Yamagata Prefecture

involve the spectacular twirling of their hats.

In the early years, much of the focus was given to the synchronisation of the dancers’ movements, but it has since evolved to being centred around the creativity of the choreography.

The Hanagasa Odori Grand Parade falls on the last day of the festival, and is led by lavishly decorated floats with both on-lookers and performers shouting “Yassho! Makkasho!” accompanied by the gallant sounds of Taiko drums.

The best way to enjoy the festival is to join in the Hanagasa Circle Dance held near the end of the parade route in front of City Hall, or at the ‘walk-in corner’

Date: 5 - 7 Aug

near the tail of the parade. Friendly dance teachers are

Location: Outside Yamagata City Office (Hanagasa

stationed at these spots to teach and demonstrate the

Odori Grand Parade)

necessary dance steps to all spontaneous participants!

Access: 10 mins from JR Yamagata Station

8

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This major festival is held every year to pray for the bountiful harvest of five

several techniques which are collectively

grains — wheat, beans, foxtail millet, Chinese millet and rice. The limelight of this

known as Myogi (妙技). These techniques

event belongs to the energetic youths who take turns hoisting up kanto (竿灯 ),

involve balancing the kanto using hands,

which are tall bamboo poles with numerous cross poles attached to them. Paper

palms, fingers, shoulders, hips and

lanterns shaped like rice bales hang from the cross poles, and the entire kanto

foreheads. At the end of the 90-minute event,

can weigh from as little as 5kg to as heavy as 50kg depending on its size. A Shinto

the audience is invited to take photos and

offering of cut paper known as gohei (御幣 ) is placed right at the top of the bamboo

even try their hand at hoisting up a kanto.

pole, which acts to drive away evil spirits.

Many of the talented performers also take

As night falls and the parade gets into full swing, around 250 of these fascinating

part in the Myogi-kai, a competition held in

poles are each hoisted up by a single performer who balances them on end using

the day designed for them to show off their skills alongside musical accompaniment from bamboo flutes and drums.

The general atmosphere and performers are further roused by onlookers cheering and chanting: “Dokkoisho, dokkoisho, Dokkoishosho, dokkoisho, Oetasa, oetasa, Nekkotsuida, oetasa” Since 1980, the festival has been designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural

KANTO matsuri Akita Prefecture

Property, which protects human skills possessed by groups or individuals who are indispensable to producing cultural properties.

Date: 3 - 6 Aug Location: Along Chuo Dori Street (night parade), next to Akita Museum of Art (Myogikai competition) Access: 5 mins from JR Akita Station

WAttention Malaysia |

9

Local delights

美味 東北の

Bursting with energy and vigour, the Tohoku region is also the birthplace of some of the homeliest dishes that you definitely should not miss!

冷麺

じゃじゃ麺

Originally a Korean dish, it is known for noodles that have a slight bounce in texture and usually served in a cold soup with beef, kimchi and a piece of fruit such as watermelon or pear. One of the “Three Great Noodles of Morioka”, this is best slurped up on a hot, summer day!

Topped with minced meat, chopped leeks, cucumber and miso paste, these udon-like noodles originated from Northeast China and has to be mixed well before eating. Considered one of the ‘Three Great Noodles of Morioka”, a popular way to finish the dish is to add an egg and hot water to the paste left in your bowl to make a special Chi-tan-tan (egg soup).

IWATE

Reimen

いちご煮

気になるリンゴ

A luxurious seafood soup made from fresh sea urchin and abalone, the dish was so named as the sea urchins resembled wild ichigo (イチゴ, strawberries) when floating in the cloudy broth. A must-eat dish served during New Year’s, this well-known regional product is now sold as canned food!

Leave it to Japan's top producer of apples to create this upgraded version of an apple pie.

Featuring a flaky pastry crust wrapped around an entire Fuji apple that has been dipped in a sugary syrup, this is one of the most popular omiyage (お土産, souvenir) from Aomori.

Ichigoni

AOMORI

JaJa Men

Kininaru Ringo

FUKUSHIMA

©Aji no kakunoya Pte.Ltd. ねぎそば

磐梯カツ丼

This unique local dish was invented by the owner of a particular restaurant in OuchiJuku, a former post town in the Aizu region. Served with a long, curved negi (ネギ, green onion) that is used to scoop up the noodles in place of chopsticks, eating this is bound to be an unforgettable experience.

Named after Mount Bandai (磐梯山) because the yummy pile of deep-fried pork cutlets sitting atop delicious Japanese rice resembles a small mountain.

The crisp cutlets are coated with sweet homemade sauce and extremely tender on the inside.

Negi Soba

©kimishowota ずんだ餅

牛タン

Well-loved by locals, this signature dessert is made with bean paste from edamame (枝豆) mixed with sugar and a dash of salt. Served on top of sticky mochi, this chewy dish can be enjoyed fresh at a teahouse or bought as a souvenir.

Sendai City is where you will find the highest concentration of eateries dedicated to grilling up juicy strips of gyutan (牛タン, beef tongue), a favourite of many yakiniku (焼肉, grilled meat) lovers. You can try this flavour at Sandaime Bunji in Singapore, which specialises in authentic Sendai-style dishes.

Zunda Rice Cakes

MIYAGI

Bandai Katsu don

Gyutan (Ox Tongue)

Gyutan from Sandaime Bunji 王将果樹園

Wagyu connoisseurs will know that this is one of the three major Japanese beef brands.

The beautifully marbled meat from these cattle are the product of a long fattening period of 32 months, during which they are fed rice straw from the mineral-rich soil of Yamagata.

This prefecture is renowned for growing sweet, juicy and glossy sakuranbo (さくらんぼ, cherries) that make upw 70 percent of the entire cherry production in Japan. This luxurious parfait is topped with a variety of cherries and almost looks too good to eat.

YAMAGATA

Yonezawa Beef

Cherry Parfait

稲庭うどん

きりたんぽ鍋

Thinner than regular udon, this noodle has a pleasant, chewy texture and is usually handstretched. Considered one of the top three udon brands in Japan, the kneading and drying process is key to producing this unique noodle. In 2007, Inaniwa Udon was chosen as one of Japan’s 100 Best Local Dishes of Rural Areas.

This is a local recipe specific to the rice cultivating region of Akita. Cooking usually begins by pounding freshly cooked rice until it is mashed, after which they are formed into cylinders around Japanese cedar skewers and toasted over an open hearth and submerged in the nabe (鍋 , hotpot).

Inaniwa Udon

AKITA

米沢牛

10

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Kiritanpo Hotpot

大自然とアクティビティ

aroundTOHOKU

IWATE

MIYAGI

浄土ヶ浜

1 Jodogahama Beach A hot spot for visitors during summer, the pristine white pebble shoreline and blue-green waters has earned it the name of “Pure Land Beach”. Get a better view of the entire area by going on a tour around the coast by boat and feed seagulls along the way.

Hitachihamacho, Miyako-shi, Iwate 秋保大滝

2 Akiu Otaki Waterfall Ranked one of the top waterfalls in Japan, it stands at a height of 55 metres and is a magnificent sight to behold. Feel refreshed by the cool waterfall mist and crisp air as you admire the cascading currents. The many onsen resorts in the area make this an ideal spot for a getaway.

1

Nishimukai, Taihaku-ku, Sendai-shi, Miyagi

三内丸山遺跡

3 Sannai Maruyama site

Designated a special historical site by the Japanese government in 2000, this is the largest and one of the most wellpreserved villages from the Jomon Period (c.13,000 - 300 BC). Try on traditional clothing, make crafts and taste the food from that time period at the Jomon Jiyukan next to the site.

AOMORI

©66 3hig hland

2

御釜（おかま）

5 Zao Okama Crater

Maruyama Sannai, Aomori-shi, Aomori 猪苗代湖

4 Lake Inawashiro

3

Resembling a Japanese traditional cooking pot (釜 , kama), this lake is surrounded the Zao Mountain Range and also goes by the name “Goshikko” (五色湖 , lake of five colours). The emerald green surface of the lake changes colour depending on weather conditions.

YAMAGATA

Known as “Tenkyoko” (天鏡湖, heaven’s mirror lake) for reflecting Aizu’s Mount Bandai, the marvellous view changes with the seasons.

During winter, visitors can even witness migrating swans and ice skate on the frozen lake!

Inawashiro-machi, Yama-gun, Fukushima

Within Zao National Park, Zao-machi, Miyagi

4

FUKUSHIMA

*The path leading up to the crater is only open from May till October.

5 角館武家屋敷

AKITA

6 Kakunodate Samurai Mansions Nicknamed little Kyoto, Kakunodate is a town famous for its seven well-preserved samurai residences that preserve the traditional architecture of its time. Take a slow stroll around the entire district to glimpse the lives of the wealthy samurais in the 17th century. Cherry blossom and fir trees lining the streets add to the old-world ambience of this area.

Omotemachishimocho, Kakunodatemachi, Senboku-shi, Akita

6

©Hassan Abdel-R ahm

Fun Activities 楽しい体験 MIYAGI

こけしの松田工房

Kokeshi Dolls making at Matsuda Studio Try your hand at making one of these traditional wooden dolls, which have a straight torso, round head and simple paintbrush strokes for facial expressions.

Each region is said to have a unique Kokeshi design. 弘前市りんご公園

AOMORI

Apple Picking at Hirosaki Park More than 1,200 apple trees of 65 different varieties occupy the large expanse of land here. Visitors can tour and have a hands-on experience picking apples from August to November. You can make fresh apple juice on the spot too!

YAMAGATA

銀山温泉で貸し衣装体験

Ginzan Onsen Costume Rental This secluded hot spring town, with historic ryokans lining the river is one of the prettiest in Japan. Rent a costume from the Taisho era at Ginzanso Hotel before strolling along the small streets to add to your time travel experience.

龍泉洞

IWATE

Ryusendo Cave

Regarded as one of Japan’s three great limestone caves, the caverns stretch nearly 5,000 metres into the mountains of Iwaizumi Town. About 3,500 metres have been explored to date but only 700 metres are open to the public.

スパリゾートハワイアンズ

Spa Resort Hawaiians

FUKUSHIMA

This one-stop water park, onsen and entertainment facility is modelled after the beach paradise of Hawaii. Watch the energetic dance performances by the Hula Girls — a dance team synonymous with the resort — and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of the park. ©Sakaori

乳頭温泉郷 妙乃湯

Taenoyu Onsen Situated deep in the mountains within the Nyuto Onsen resort area, this modern ryokan is known for its Kin-no-yu (金の湯) and Gin-no-yu (銀の湯) bathhouses.

The mixed-gender open-air bath overlooks a scenic waterfall and is the perfect spot to unwind.

AKITA

WAttention Malaysia |

11

an

Traverse KYUSHU from North to South

Traveler's profile:

Charles Chen

Mojiko Station

A Taiwanese who has lived in Tokyo for 5 years. He has traveled to all 47 prefectures in Japan and loves exploring the country by rail.

Sonic 42 mins

Kokura Station Fukuoka Prefecture Shinkansen 39 mins

Hakata Station

JR Kyushu Pass

Saga Prefecture

Oita Prefecture

Unlimited rail travel across Kyushu!

Local train 1hr 50 mins Kagoshima Line Hisatsu Line

Nagazaki Prefecture

JR Kyushu Pass is a convenient and money saving railway pass that gets you unlimited train rides within the JR Kyushu railway network. Be it a Shinkansen bullet train, a limited express train, a local train, or even a sightseeing train, JR Kyushu Pass has got it all covered!

There is an exclusive rail pass counter in Hakata Station to serve foreign tourists.

Type

Validity

Price

Northern Kyushu Area Pass

3-day

¥8,500

5-day

¥10,000

3-day

¥15,000

5-day

¥18,000

All Kyushu Area Pass

Where to buy?

Main railway stations in Kyushu, including Hakata Station. For details, check out the website of JR Kyushu at www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/index.jsp 12

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Kumamoto Station

Miyazaki Prefecture

Kumamoto Prefecture

Hisatsu Line 3hr 22 mins

Hitoyoshi Station

Ibusuki no Tamatebako 51 mins

❶ Isaburo 1hr 24mins

Kagoshima Kagoshima chuo Prefecture Station

Local train 17 mins Ibusuki makurazaki Line

Ibusuki Station Nishi-Oyama Station

+

❷ Hayato no Kaze 1hr 43mins

Mojiko

Kumamoto

Day 1

Retro and romantic Arriving at Fukuoka Airport, you will be amazed by its vicinity to the city centre. A 6-minute metro ride got me to Hakata Station, and an hour later, I found myself standing on the antique platform of Mojiko Station, the northern tip of Kyushu’s railway network. The port city was prominent as an international trade hub until the early 20th century. Buildings were constructed one after another with the highest aesthetic standard at that time and many of them were preserved to form the modern Mojiko, a retro and romantic scenic town.

Take a leisurely stroll along the streets and imagine

you were one of the esteemed patrons visiting Mojiko a century ago. Built in 1921, the Old Moji Mitsui Club once welcomed Albert Einstein and his wife. Now it is a small museum and restaurant serving Mojiko’s signature grilled curry to any guest. Apart from the many antique western style buildings around town, there is an exquisitely designed railway museum that deserves a visit even if you are not a big fan of trains.

After exploring Mojiko, I headed back to Hakata and transferred onto an 800 series Shinkansen for Kumamoto. Though the 40-minute journey was too short to admire the astonishingly fast and beautiful bullet train, it left me plenty of time to discover the night life in Kumamoto.

Kumamoto

Kyushu Railway History Museum houses a fine collection of vintage trains.

Take a chance and try something new.

Basashi, or raw horse meat, is a Kumamoto specialty that will excite one’s curiosity.

Day 2

Kagoshima

Watching the majestic scenery unfolds from over-sized windows of the limited express Isaburo.

The art of slow travel The plan for today was to take a series of slow (relative to Shinakansen) yet charismatic trains all the way down to Kagoshima. But before that I had to marvel at the strong presence of Kumamoto Castle, which is the symbol of Kumamoto and has stood firmly after a major earthquake struck the city in April 2016.

Though the castle will not be open to the public any time soon, you can get a close-up view from Kato Shrine or a bird’s eye view from the free observatory of Kumamoto City Office.

then from Hitoyoshi to Kagoshima, it was show time for JR Kyushu’s sightseeing trains — Isaburo & Hayato no Kaze. The gracefully designed trains spiral and zig-zag through the mountains as if you are traveling on one of those Swiss mountain railways. It slows down at scenic viewing spots and makes extended stays at small stations that each have their own characteristics. A long journey, if measured by traveling time, but definitely a worthy one measured by memorable experiences.

Leaving from Kumamoto, I first made a stop at Hitoyoshi for its National Treasure — Aoi Aso Shrine.

The thatch-roofed building was one of a kind, and the delicate engravings were more than beautiful. And

Of course, if you prefer to see more of the city of Kumamoto and Kagoshima, the Shinkansen bullet train will do its work in about 50 minutes and leave you plenty of time to weave your own tale of two cities. The night in Kagoshima was saved for its Kurobuta pork. A cup of Kagoshima Shochu to go with it? You bet.

Kagoshima

Nishi-Oyama

Journey to the south Most people visiting Kagoshima, are likely to stay near the city and visit historical sites such as Senganen Garden and Ijinkan Residence. But since I am already in southern Kyushu, I was determined to go further southward. On the first leg of my journey I traveled from Kagoshima to Ibusuki on the limited express Ibusuki no Tamatebako. Riding on the specially designed sightseeing train was an enjoyment by itself, and the majestic view of Sakurajima volcano from the window made the trip even nicer.

Before long, I arrived at Ibusuki and then took a

Day 3

Savor the highly popular Kareigawa bento on the limited express Hayato no Kaze. (Limited numbers available on Fridays, weekends, and holidays)

Already in his seventies, Mr. Shoubu still sells bento in a traditional hand-carried manner at Hitoyoshi Station. Grab a kurimeshi bento (chestnut rice lunch) and help Mr. Shoubu unload his burden.

Double the fun by stamping the commemorative postcard and tasting the black sesame pudding on the limited express Ibusuki no Tamatebako.

short walk to Saraku Sand Bath Hall to try the famous sand bath. Buried in geothermal-heated sand, you will soon feel the heat and start to sweat. The recommended time to stay in the sand is 10 - 15 minutes. After getting recharged in this unconventional onsen bath, I continued my journey southward to Nishi-Oyama, the southernmost train station in Japan that is operated by JR. There is a yellow mailbox next to the platform. It is said that postcards and letters delivered from this mailbox to your important ones will bring them happiness. I believe that being able to travel is a blessing, so why not share it forward?

Ibusuki no Tamatebako is furnished with teak wood and exudes a warm ambiance.

This ekiben contains a nice selection of specialty food from all across Kyushu. WAttention Malaysia |

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A

gleaming delicacy

from the

depths of Toyama Bay

Firefly Squid

(hotaru ika)

t is 3.30am on a chilly April night, and I am huddled on a tourist boat chugging out into the dark waters of Toyama Bay, in central Japan. As the coast fades from view behind us, we soon spot the lights of fishing vessels up ahead.

Some 1.5 km from shore, we have reached our destination. Like us, these fishermen have come from the port of Namerikawa, just along the coast from Toyama City. During the months of March through May, they are out here every night at their fixed nets. They are after one catch only: hotaru ika, or “firefly squid.”

A mysterious

catch

he reason why I and the other observers on my boat are out there in the middle of the night is not just to observe the fishermen in action.

We are there in the hope of glimpsing the mysterious blue light emitted by the tiny squid from their tentacles, heads and mantles-from which they have earned their name.

The fishermen work in two teams, slowly drawing in the net stretched between their boats, ignoring the agitated flocks of seagulls swooping down. Then, when their catch is fully concentrated, they switch off their lights

for a few minutes for our benefit. The mystical neon-like glow is clearly visible as they start hauling their catch into the waiting crates.

Then the lights snap back on. Time is of the essence: the fishermen have to get the squid to the port, where they will be auctioned and trucked to market before daybreak. But before they sail off, they deliver a present for us — firefly squid that have beean simply grilled on a metal mesh over the embers of a brazier. Lightly sprinkled with soy sauce, they are a smoky, salty-savory treat, and a welcome source of warmth for our chilled fingers.

ome 20 minutes later we are back on land, in the foyer of Namerikawa’s Hotaruika Museum, from where the nighttime boat trips are organized.

More squid are being cooked for us here. This time they are just quickly dipped in hot water, a cooking style known as sakurani (“cherry blossom simmered”) because they turn such a delicate pink color.Served with a dab of karashi sumiso (white miso mixed with rice vinegar and mustard powder) the squid are eaten whole-heads, tentacles, innards and all-each a single bite. Compared to the fishermen’s grilled version, the flavor is light, the flesh delicate and smooth. I have eaten firefly squid in many different ways, often at highend restaurants. But none have tasted better than this.

Text/Photo: Robbie Swinnerton

Check out the full article on the Japanese Food website.

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www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/food