WAttention Malaysia vol 23

Malaysia Edition

Tokyo - Singapore - L.A - Taiwan - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong - Indonesia - Mexico - Australia

TA K E FREE

Winter 2017/18 VOL.23 PP18029/03/2013 (033318)

Winter Fes

! ku

ls in Toh a v o ti

NINGYOCHO

SUITENGU

ore Kyot l p o Ex

www.wattention.com

(beg ining of raining session s)

暦 Koyomi 2 January

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

Kakizome 書き初め

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

On the 2 nd of January, many Japanese people practice Kakizome, the first calligraphy writing of their New Year’s resolution on a fresh sheet of white paper. Over the centuries, writing was only practiced among the aristocrats and the ability to write and draw was seen as something very special and admirable.

It was at the end of the Edo period (1603–1867) when common people started learning how to write. As each New Year arrived, many were determined to improve their writing and drawing skills and would dedicate their own calligraphy and

drawings to shrines.

These artworks were burned in the holy fire known as Dondo Yaki on the 15th of January.

Only when the smoke rose high in the sky and the drawings burned completely, would the god grant their wishes.

This picture shows the first sentence of the famous story “Makura No Soshi (The Pillow Talk)”, written by Sei Shonagon (966-1025), a female author during the Heian Period (794-1185). It means “in spring it is the dawn that is most beautiful,” which perfectly describes the beginning of a new season. You can

feel the excitement of the author as she welcomes in the New Year.

With a fresh calligraphy brush and a blank sheet of paper in front of us, let us ask ourselves what it is that we really want for the New Year. This quiet time is sure to bring about peaceful self-reflection, and is an exemplary way in which our ancestors welcomed the New Year.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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What is

o Trip t aido Hokk

Eat local speciality

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VOL.23

NINGYOCHO & SUITENGU 03

In Harmony with the Seasons

06

Ningyocho & Suitengu

14

Explore Kyoto

16

18

Myriad Winter Festivals in Tohoku!

NHK World Japanese Food Vol.03 Wanko soba : Discover Iwate’s culture through its bottomless noodles

Publisher

Shuji Ozawa FLP YOMIKO Malaysia Sdn Bhd 100.02.043, 129 Offices, Block J, Jaya One. No.72A, Jalan Universiti, 46200 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Malaysia Tel: +603 9544 3938 E-mail: yasui@flp-yomiko.com

Editor in Chief Kunio Yasui

Japan & Singapore Editorial Team Naoki Kiyota / Ayako Miyazaki Chew Yan Qiao / Lam Ying Wai Eric Voon / Yuka Suzuki / Kenji Ishida

Photographer

Hajime Watanabe

Partners

WAttention Co., Ltd, WAon Pte Ltd

Cover Photo

Yukata cloths from CHIKUSEN

Advertising inquiry in Malaysia

Aim Nat ................. Graphic Designer Ken Chin ................ Co-ordinator

Japan Representive

Tel: +81-3-6418-5701 Fax: +81-3-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com

WAttention is a publication of FLP YOMIKO Malaysia Sdn Bhd. All articles published are in good faith and based on bonafide information available to The Publisher at the time of press. The Publisher accepts no responsibility other than that stipulated by law.

The Publisher also accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or full without the previous written permission of The Publisher. Neither can any part be stored or recorded, by any means. The opinions expressed in The Publication are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by The Publisher.

This publication and the name are owned solely by FLP YOMIKO Malaysia Sdn Bhd, 100.02.043, 129 Offices, Block J, Jaya One., No.72A, Jalan Universiti, 46200 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Malaysia, e-mail: yasui@flp-yomiko.com WAttention is published quarterly and distributed throughout Malaysia.

Trademarks and copy rights for all other products, logos and depictions contained herein are the properties of their respective trademark and copyright owners.

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Stroll Around the Charmingly Nostalgic

Ningyocho & Suitengu With its well-established history as an entertainment district, Ningyocho prides itself on its welcoming atmosphere and warm hospitality. Here, you will be able to feel the lively spirit of old Tokyo against the backdrop of historical buildings. In this issue, WAttention editors asked the Guest Relations Officer at the Royal Park Hotel to unveil the nostalgic charms of Ningyocho.

Getting the Latest Information at Royal Park Hotel

You can buy your Airport Limousine Bus ticket at the hotel’s front desk

With just one phone call from T-CAT, friendly staff will help you carry your luggage to the hotel

Situated in the heart of Ningyocho and Suitengu district, Royal Park Hotel is a major landmark found in a centralised location that provides guests with unrivalled convenience. Guests can visit various attractions by taking either the Airport Limousine Bus at Tokyo City Air Terminal (T-CAT) or subways, both of which are just several minutes away from the hotel on foot.

Additionally, as early as ten years ago, the hotel led an effort to create bilingual menus for restaurants in the neighborhood, hoping to make travel more accessible and enjoyable for foreign tourists.

“Plenty of long-standing shops and local establishments can be found in Ningyocho.

Wherever you choose to drop in, you will be wowed by the warm hospitality—a unique characteristic of Ningyocho,” said Ms. Kaneko, guest relations officer at Royal Park Hotel.

Tokyo’s best spots are not just Asakusa and Ueno. Your trip will not be complete without a visit to Ningyocho and Suitengu!

An Authentic Old Town with Century-old Hospitality Ningyocho derives its name from the words ningyo (人形, doll) and cho (町, town). The area flourished during the Edo Period (1603-1868) as a bustling pleasure district, catering to both peasants and the working class. In the heydays, the area was full of theatres performing kabuki, a traditional Japanese drama featuring stylized dancing and singing, and traditional Japanese puppet theater bunraku. Known as “a sleepless town,” Ningyocho was always crowded with people from morning to night, drinking and having a great time. Along with the crowd came puppeteers and craftsmen making theatrical dolls.

In 1872, a popular shrine called Suitengu moved to the area, attracting even more 6

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people, many of whom had come to pray for safe childbirth. Back then, there were no lack of tasty local eateries, high-end restaurants and nightlife establishments where geisha entertained patrons. Today, visitors can get a glimpse of Ningyocho’s glorious past through shops with hundreds of years of history and tradition. Join us as we take you on a tour to experience the authentic traditions of Ningyocho.

Retro, Fun and Atmospheric: Amazake Yokocho Amazake Yokocho is a shopping street with a history dating back to the early Meiji Period (1868 - 1912) when a shop at the main entrance called Owariya started selling amazake, a sweet drink made from fermented rice. Today, people still line up for the traditional beverage regardless of season. Many stores provide benches for customers and welcome lively conversations. Why not take an afternoon stroll along the street for a cup of amazake and step inside some of the age-old shops for a peep into history?

Futaba Tofu The Power of Soybeans

Take a break on the bench in front of the shop and try some tasty iced amazake

The owner is cheerful and friendly.

Amazake ¥380 per bottle or ¥200 per cup.

Founded in 1907, Futaba has been carrying on the legacy of tofu-making for generations. The shop specialises in fresh tofu and ganmodoki (がんもどき, fried tofu fritter with chopped vegetables) but they have one unexpected bestseller: amazake! Old photos of previous generations hung on wall evoke a sense of nostalgia.

Address: 2-4-9 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 7am - 7pm (Mon - Sat), 10am - 6pm (Sun)

COLUMN: Amazake Amazake, sweet sake in Japanese, is a traditional drink with very low alcohol content (nearly alcohol free). Although each shop has its own secret recipe, amazake is usually made using simple ingredients such as water, rice and the dried fermented starter koji. It tastes a bit like a diluted smoothie with a thick, creamy texture loved by children and adults alike. Japanese often refer to amazake as 'drinkable IV fluid' because it is full of nutrients and can even be served both cold or hot.

Yanagiya Taiyaki Cooked Right in Front of You Taiyaki is an all-time favourite sweet treat in Japan. You can enjoy freshly baked taiyaki on the spot or bring one back to the hotel for a late night snack, since its texture and taste does not change even when it is cold. The shop is hard to miss as there is always a line spilling out onto the streets.

Prepare to be embraced by the aroma of taiyaki. ¥150 per taiyaki.

Address: 2-11-3 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 12.30pm - 6pm Closed: Sun & Holidays

Shinodazushi Sohonten Inarizushi A Box of Deliciousness The shop specialises in inarizushi, a simple type of sushi in which seasoned rice is stuffed into tofu pouches. Cooked in sweetened soy sauce, each piece is extremely flavourful.The recipe has not changed since 1877 and continues to attract loyal customers who come for their delicious lunch boxes.

Address: 2-10-10 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 9am - 7pm

Shinoda Inarizushi ¥540 (excluding tax) WAttention Malaysia |

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Toushimaya Soba

Favourite Joint for the Locals This soba joint has a retro look and never ceases to impress the eyes as well as the palate. Founded in 1887, the dishes are simple but with a sophisticated twist. Tempura soba is a must-try as it comes with an assortment of freshly fried tempura that are crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside. Curry nanban, a surprising combination of soba noodles in a curry flavored soup, is also a popular menu item at Toushimaya.

Address: 2-4-9 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 11.30am - 4pm (Lunch), 6pm - 9.30pm (Dinner) Closed: Sun (Sat & Holiday: only open for Lunch)

Shigemori-eishindo Ningyoyaki Delicious Stuffed Doll

Ningyoyaki is easy to find in Tokyo but Shigemori-eishindo is the number one place to have this baked confectionery.

Founded in 1917, the shop prides itself in providing the best quality ningyoyaki, a cake-like pastry filled with rich, sweet red bean paste. Peeking through the window to watch the bakers work their magic is always great fun.

Curry nanban (¥850) tastes comforting. Tempura soba (¥1,000)

Address: 2-1-1 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 9am – 6pm (Closing time varies depending on the date) Ningyoyaki shaped in the form of Seven Gods of Fortune is one the best sellers.

Karakusaya

Amazake Yokocho Area

Tsukushi Pudding Original Recipe from 1877

Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line

Ubukeya

Toei Asakusa Line

Ningyocho Station

Suehiro Shrine Sucre-rie

Chidoriya

Located just in front of Suitengu Shrine, Tsukushi is famous for its original custard pudding, made using a recipe that dates back more than 100 years. The pudding has a firm consistency and a rich, eggy taste that balances the bitter sweet caramel sauce on the bottom. A perfect place to savour a taste of old Japan.

Ningyocho-Imahan

Uokyu

Shinodazushi Sohonten Tamahide

Sucre-rie Cream Puff

Toushimaya

Futaba

Crispy on the Outside

Yanagiya

Cream Puff, ¥240 each (Tax included)

Shoyeido Chanoki Shrine Shigemori-eishindo Tsukushi Suitengu Shrine

to Suitengumae Station

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Gold Ningyocho Pudding

Anmitsu ¥950 Address: 2-1-12 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho,Chuo-ku Hours: 8am – 8pm (Mon-Sat), 8am – 5pm (Sun & Holidays) Tea Room Hours: 10.30am – 6pm (Mon-Sat), 10.30am – 4pm (Sun & Holidays)

Matsushima Shrine

Sucre-rie’s cream puffs are stunning, mouth-watering creations that will have you licking your fingers.

If you have a sweet tooth, be prepared to be mesmerized by the combination of refreshing cream filling and strong sesame aroma. The shop makes cream puffs three times a day to cater to popular demand.

Address: St. Heim Ningyocho Minamoto,1-5-5 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho Chuo-ku Hours: 9.30am – 7pm Closed: Sun

The Statue of Benkei: The statue was erected to commemorate Ningyocho as the birthplace of Kabuki. Benkei is a character in the beloved Kabuk story “Kanjincho.”

Unfortunately Unlucky? Visit the Seven Gods of Fortune Make a pilgrimage to Shichifukujin Meguri and visit the shrines of the Seven Gods of Fortune to pray for luck. It is said that the custom dates back to the early Edo Period. The seven gods are: Ebisu (God of Prosperous Business), Daikokuten (God of Wealth and Honour), Bishamonten (God of Bravery and Knowledge), Benzaiten (God of Learning and Arts), Fukurokuju (God of Happiness and Prosperity), Jurojin (God of Health and Longevity) and Hotei (God of Prosperity and Harmony). For about ¥300, visitors can get a goshuin, a uniquely designed seal which proves that one has taken the pilgrimage.

The highlight of the Shichifukujin Meguri in Ningycho is Suitengu, a Shinto shrine known for answering prayers regarding pregnancy, safe childbirth and protection of children. Built in the 19 th century, the building underwent massive renovation recently and was completed in April 2016. You will have no problem finding the location, as it is always filled with expecting couples and parents with their newborns asking for blessings. If you are looking for something to bring home, Suitengu offers a wide variety of traditional amulets featuring dogs. (Culturally, dogs are often associated with pregnancy in Japan because they are believed to give birth more easily than humans.)

Benzaiten

The Tour of the Seven Gods of Fortune 1) Koami Shrine (Benzaiten and Fukurokuju)

Touch the statue to pray for pregnancy

You can visit all the shrines within an hour!

2) Suginomori Shrine (Ebisu)

3) Kasama Inari Shrine ( Jurojin) Since the Edo Period, this Tokyo Branch of Ibaraki Prefecture’s Kasama Inari Shrine has been one of the three largest Inari Okami shrines in Japan.

Address: Nihonbashi Hamacho 2-11-6, Chuo-ku

This shrine became famous when it answered a priest’s prayer for the elimination of a plague in 1466.

Address: Nihonbashi Koamicho 16-23, Chuo-ku

Built over 1,000 years ago, this shrine is known for answering prayers for victory in battles and for rain during droughts.

Address: Nihonbashi Horidomecho 1-10-2, Chuo-ku

5) Matsushima Shrine (Daikokuten)

6) Suitengu Shrine (Benzaiten)

This shrine, thought to have been built in the Kamakura Period (1185~1333), enshrines various gods including Daikokuten, the God of Five Cereals.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-15-2, Chuo-ku

While the shrine is frequented by mothers, it also enshrines Benzaiten, originally a Hindu goddess and the patron of artists, writers, dancers and geisha.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-15-2, Chuo-ku

4) Suehiro Shrine (Bishamonten) The enshrined god serves as guardian deity of the area which used to be called Yoshiwara, a red-light district during the Edo Period.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-25-20, Chuo-ku

7) Chanoki Shrine (Hotei) The shrine, enshrining Hotei since 1985, is surrounded by camellia trees and thus its name chanoki.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 1-12-11, Chuo-ku

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Sophisticated Taste Nurtured and approved by the locals, these establishments are sure to satisfy your palate.

D

Ningyocho-Imahan Sukiyaki

All in One Pot

Established in 1895, this is a traditional Japanese restaurant specialising in sukiyaki, a one-pot dish that contains top-grade beef and fresh vegetables.

Sukiyaki is most popular during the winter, but Ningyocho-Imahan has no problem attracting meat lovers all year round. Be sure to make a reser vation before you arrive.

Address: 2-9-12 Nihonbashi Ningyocho , Chuo-ku Hours: 11am – 10pm (Closed 3pm - 5pm on Weekdays) Closed: New Year’s Day

D

Tamahide Shamonabe & Oyakodon

Prepared by the Chicken Expert

Tamahide has been in business since 1760, serving shamonabe, a type of sukiyaki dish featuring premium chicken. It was 125 years ago when the wife of the fifth generation owner invented one of today’s most popular Japanese dish — oyakodon, by adding egg to the shamonabe broth and putting it on top of steamy hot rice. The eatery is quite spacious with over 100 seats, but it is always packed with locals and tourists from abroad looking for authentic tastes.

Drop in during lunch for oyakodon and order shamonabe for dinner (reservation required).

Address: 1-17-10 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 11.30am – 1.30 pm (Oyakodon Lunch), 11.45am – 2.30pm (Course Lunch), 5.30pm – 10pm (Dinner)

Uokyu Kasuzuke

Brings out the Best Flavour

D

Uokyu is a popular Japanese restaurant that serves kasuzuke cuisine. Kasuzuke is a traditional way of pickling fish and vegetables in sake lees. The lunch set, ranging from ¥1,000 to ¥1,500 is of great value as it includes a slice of fish, rice, miso soup and pickled vegetables.

Address: 1-1-20 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 11am – 2pm (Lunch last order 1.30pm), 5pm – 10pm (Course Dinner last order 8.30pm, Dinner last order 9.30pm) Closed: Sat, Sun & Holidays

Nihonbashi Highball

A

Royal Scots Cocktail

Elegance at its Best

Located in the basement of Royal Park Hotel, Royal Scots is a bar modelled after an old English manor house. Relax in a comfortable chair at the bar and immerse yourself in the enchanting atmosphere as the bartender prepares your cocktail with utmost care.

Nihonbashi Highball is a signature cocktail co-developed by the hotel and a Japanese beverage company. The cocktail, designed to represent the elegance of Nihonbashi, features mintlike shiso that enhances the colour and adds zesty character.

Address: Royal Park Hotel B1, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Kakigaracho, Chuo-ku Hours: 5pm – 12am (Last order 11.30pm)

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As Traditional As It Gets: Arts and Crafts These one-of-a-kind products embody Japanese artisans’ skillful craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Shoyeido Incense

Premium Japanese Fragrance Established more than 300 years ago, Shoyeido is known as the oldest Japanese incense maker, offering a wide variety of unique, hand-blended incense products that range from incense sticks to sachets and burners. A fragrant paradise is just the light of an incense away! Shoyeido’s incense are formulated with natural ingredients, so take your time and find the ones you love.

Address: 2-12-2 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho Chuo-ku Hours: 9am – 6pm Closed: Sun & Holidays

Fragrant Sachets (large) ¥972 each

Ubukeya Knives

Chidoriya Tenugui

Ubukeya, which has been in operation since the Edo Period, sells an array of tools such as knives, scissors, tweezers and nail clippers.

The tools are made by professionals with more than 20 years of experience and are said to be suitable for multiple tasks, even the most detailed work.

Tenugui literally means wiping hands, and refers to a multipurpose cloth that can be used as a handkerchief, towel and even for gift wrapping. Although simple in form, tenugui comes in an array of textures, designs and colours which will leave you spoilt for choice.

Address: HS Build. 1F 1-7-6 Nihonbashi, Ningyocho, Chuo-ku Hours: 11am – 8pm (Mon - Fri), 11am – 7pm (Sat, Sun & Holidays)

Sharp Craftsmanship

A Cloth with Endless Versatility

Address: 3-9-2 Nihonbashi Ningyocho,Chuo-ku Hours: 9am - 6pm (5pm on Sat) Closed: Sun & Holidays

Karakusaya Furoshiki Wrapped with Creativity

Kamaya-mogusa Honpo Mugwort Natural Home Remedy

Karakusaya has the widest lineup of furoshiki, traditional Japanese wrapping cloth that is eco-friendly and can be used for gift wrapping, bundling or as a bag. Since modern furoshiki comes in different sizes, colours and designs, you will definitely find something that suits your personal tastes.

Mugwort is a small, spongy herb with medicinal properties that is widely used in Japanese acupuncture and moxibustion.

This shop has been providing mugwort products to Tokyoites for 350 years, emphasizing their natural qualities and historic allure.

Address: Morimoto Building 1F, 7-2 Nihonbashi Tomizawacho, Chuo-ku Hours: 11am – 6pm Closed: Tue, Wed, Holidays, Summer and New Year Holidays

Address: Koamicho 6-1, Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku Hours: 9am - 5pm Closed: Sat, Sun & Holidays Kamaya Mini (mild mogwort) ¥1,944 WAttention Malaysia |

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T-CAT Connects Airports to Central Tokyo Quick, Comfortable, Convenient Tokyo City Air Terminal (T-CAT) has a direct connection to Suitengumae Station on Tokyo Metro line, which brings you to all the interesting sites including Asakusa, Shibuya and Shinjuku. The terminal operates 119 bus services a day connecting Narita Airport and Central Tokyo and 57 services a day linking Haneda Airport with Central Tokyo.

T-CAT Connects Airport to Tokyo @ Suitengu & Ningyocho Ikebukuro

Shinjuku

Asakusa

Tokyo

Ueno

1min

15min

Otemachi

8min

Harajuku

6min

Kudanshita

4min

25 Min to/from Haneda

Oshiage

11min

10min

Mitsukoshimae

8min

Shibuya

2min

19min

Suitengumae Hanzomon Line

¥820

Hanzomon Line

Marunouchi Line

S

Toei Shinjuku Line

3min

¥1,900 Ginza Line

55 Min to/from Narita

T-CAT Caters to All Your Travel Needs ◆ The modern, spacious departure terminal has a roof protecting travelers from rain and sun ◆ Experienced, friendly staff at the ticket counter will answer all your questions ◆ Currency exchange services available on the third floor of the main building ◆ A variety of shops, convenience stores and restaurants for last minute shopping ◆ Multilingual ticket machines (available in English, Chinese and Korean) that accept payments by cash and credit card

JR Line

The Tourist Information Center ◆ Stock up on all necessary travel information ◆ Short-term baggage storage is available here as well

Enjoyable Experience with Airport Limousine Bus Narita Airport Limousine Bus Ticket Counter

Onboard facilities Outlets for smart devices are available at every seat, so travelers have no problem charging their devices on the bus. Also, clean restrooms are readily available.

Located in the international arrivals lobby, the ticket counter is easy to spot. In addition, there is no need to carry your luggage up/down steps or escalators as the bus terminal is on the same floor as the arrivals lobby.

Fast & Free Wifi Access: Download the Travel Japan Wifi app to your smart phone and gain access to all the hotspots throughout Japan.

Stretch and Relax Buses are equipped with comfortable reclining seats.

Tourists getting off long flights will appreciate the beautiful scenery on the way to their final destinations.

Rice fields

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@ Suitengu & Ningyocho Hotel Information

4Hotels selling T-CAT Special ¥1,900 ticket.

Other tickets are available at T-CAT ticketing counter.

1 Royal Park Hotel 2 Sotetsu Fresa Inn Nihombashi-Ningyocho 3 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Nihombashi Hakozaki 4 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Hatchobori 5 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Kayabacho 6 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Nihombashi Mitsukoshimae 7 Hotel Hokke Inn Nihonbashi 8 City Pension Zem 9 Selmeas inn Nihonbashi 10 Hotel Livemax Nihombashi-Hakozaki 11 Pearl Hotel Kayabacho 12 Oak Hostel Cabin 13 Kurumi Lease Mansion 14 Tokyo Hotel Horidome Villa 15 Hotel Sardonyx Tokyo 16 Keio Presso Inn Kayabacho 17 Center Hotel Tokyo 18 otetsu Fresa Inn Nihombashi-Kayabacho 19 Smile Hotel Tokyo Nihombashi 20 Toyoko Inn Tokyo Nihombashi Ningyocho 21 Sumisho Hotel 22 Nishitetsu Inn Nihombachi 23 Hotel Nihonbashi Saibo 24 Toyoko Inn Tokyo Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Mae A4 25 Apa Hotel Ningyocho-Ekikita

2 3

Amazake Yokocho Area 25

14

Hamacho Station

Meiji-Za

24

Hamacho Park

Shichifukujin Shrines 1 Koami Shrine

(Fukurokuju & Benzaiten)

2 Suginomori Shrine

4

(Ebisu)

3 Kasama Inari Shrine

6

Ningyocho Station

e ak az Am

23

21 22

(Jurojin)

o ch ko Yo

4 Suehiro Shrine (Bishamonten)

5 Matsushima Shrine (Daikokuten)

6 Suitengu Shrine (Benzaiten)

5

7 Chanoki Shrine (Hotei)

1 7

Tokyo Metro Subway Line Station

6

2

20

Toei Subway Line Station

8

Nihonbashi Station

7

16 18

Suitengumae Station

9

3

Pg 12 / Map Amazake Yokocho

10 19

r

11

5 12

Su mi

4

Riv e

Kayabacho Station

Kamayamogusa Honpo

da

to Tokyo Station 17

Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line Tokyo Metro Tozai Line Toei Asakusa Line Toei Shinjuku Line

1

15

13

Special Discount Fares (Foreign Tourists Only) T-CAT Night Special 1000

Single trip to Narita Airport after 7pm only costs ¥1,000 (normal fare is ¥2,800). The fare applies to both adults and children.

T-CAT Special

Foreign tourists traveling to Narita Airport are entitled to ¥1,900 adult single fare (normal fare is ¥2,800). To enjoy the discount, show your passport. The ticket can only be purchased on the day of travel.

Limousine & Subway Pass Unlimited rides on all Tokyo Metro lines and Toei Subway lines. Choose from 24 hrs, 48 hrs or 72 hrs subway passes with tickets to/from Haneda or Narita Airport. Encompassing a total of 13 lines, this network covers all the major sightseeing spots in Tokyo.

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Myriad Winter Festivals in Tohoku!

Tohoku is covered in a thick blanket of white during winter, silently waiting for spring to rouse it from slumber.

Despite the frosty landscape, though, many traditional festivals take place at this time of year in northern Japan. Learn more about local living and Japanese culture by reading all about these fascinating celebrations!

Hachinohe Enburi : Dance Parade for Good Harvest Aomori’s Hachinohe shi holds an enburi festival every year from February 17 to 20 to celebrate the arrival of spring. The Hachinohe Enburi, with a history of 800 years, is said to have been invented by a farmer named Fujikuro. As the story goes, he promoted the substitution of singing and dancing for excessive drinking and quarrels during the New Year’s holiday.

An enburi parade, led by a dancer representing Fujikuro, features people playing cymbals, drums and flutes and performing dances representing scenes of farm work such as planting, sowing and praying for a good harvest.

There is another type of enburi dance, too, which is more bold and lively: Dancers knock the ground with wooden sticks in an effort to wake the Rice God from hibernation.

Hachinohe

Hachinohe Station ( JR Tohoku Shinkansen)

Hachinohe Enburi takes place February 17 to 20 in different parts of the city

Day: The highlight of the event is the procession of dancers who just paid respects at Chojasanshinra Shrine

Night: Oniwa Enburi takes place in a garden at night. Originally, it was performed only for powerful landlords and wealthy businesses owners.

Somin-sai : the Spirited Battle of Half-Naked Men The Kokuseki Temple in Iwate’s Oshu shi holds the Somin-sai every February. With a history of more than 1,200 years, the festival features enthusiastic men wearing only fundoshi (thin loincloths).

With torches in hand, the group starts from the temple at midnight and treks to the Ruritsubo River for cleansing, shouting “Jasso! Joyasa!” along the way. A bonfire shaped like a pound key is set up in front of the main hall of the temple. Participants can climb the 150-centimetre tall bonfire tower and bathe in the fire’s smoke, which some believe removes bad luck. Enduring harsh winds and ice-cold temperature, the men perform several other rituals to pray for health and a bountiful harvest. The long event ends with a competition for a “somin bag” (hemp sack), which is full of amulets and thought to be sacred. The person who seizes the bag is believed to receive good luck and happiness, and the competition lasts until early in the morning!

Kokuseki-ji Temple 16

20 min from Mizusawaesashi Station ( JR Tohoku Shinkansen) by car

| WAttention Malaysia

Participants climb the bonfire tower to bathe themselves in smoke to remove bad luck

Kishu Kasedori : Not Your Ordinary Bird On February 11, the annual Kishu Kasedori is celebrated in Kaminoyama (Yamagata ken). This unique and mysterious New Year’s ritual features people strolling through the streets dressed in kendai (plaited clothes made from rice straw, worn over the head and body like a giant conical hat).

The costumes are shaped like cones so they grab the curious attention of crowds immediately. Wrapped in the enthusiastic atmosphere of this water-splashing event, the Kishu Kasedori Festival captivates everyone in this freezing area. It is said that Kasedori is the incarnation of the deity of abundant harvest and household safety. This festival has its roots in the beginning of the Edo period when local residents invited the deity down from the mountains to offer prayers for the new year.

Participants acting as Kasedori dance in circles and raise their voices singing "ga-ga!" as they visit local shops and pray for prosperous business and fire protection. While doing so, they are splashed with water from the audience. In addition, locals tie towels around the conical hats and pray for one year of family peace and thriving business.

People think of Kasedori as a bringer of good fortune. In fact, some say that women’s hair will become beautifully black after tying it with a rice straw fallen from the costume of the deity!

Kaminoyama

Kaminoyama Onsen Station ( JR Tohoku Shinkansen)

Kasedori dance around a bonfire while singing

Sendai Pageant of Starlight

Kishu Kasedori is a traditional festival in Kaminoyama, Yamagata ken

Don’t miss the chance to take a photo of yourself with the Kasedori!

Splash the Kasedori with water and wish for family peace and prosperous business!

Hirosaki Castle Yuki-Doro Festival (Snow Lantern Festival)

Aizu Erousoku Matsuri

Every December, the beech trees on both sides of Aoba Street in Sendai are

The Snow Lantern Festival, held in early

decorated with more than 100,000 LED

February at Hirosaki Castle, is one of the

Painting candles, a traditional craft in

lights, giving the city a soft, warm glow

five biggest snow festivals in Tohoku,

at night. Sendai’s most popular winter

featuring 300 snow lanterns handcrafted

festival, it is an absolute treat for the eyes!

by locals, large snow structures based on

Sendai Sendai Station ( JR Tohoku Shinkansen)

historical architecture and gigantic slides.

Dim candlelight glowing in miniature igloos adds a tinge of winter romance to the peaceful atmosphere.

Hirosaki 30 min from Shin-Aomori Station ( JR Tohoku Shinkansen) to Hirosaki Station by Tsugaru Limited Express

Sendai’s winter illumination always attrac ts throngs of tourists

(Painted Candle Festival) Fukushima’s Aizu area, boasts a history of over 500 years. This festival is held in early February each year in Aizuwakamatsu shi’s Tsuruga Castle and Oyakuen Garden.

A total of 10,000 painted candles decorate the venue and different corners of the city.

Seeing them burning in the wind is like watching fireflies dance flittingly through the winter evening.

Aizuwakamatsu 65 min from Koriyama Station ( JR Touhoku Shinkansen)to Aiza-Wakamatsu Station

by Train ( JR Ban-etsu-West Line)

Hirosaki Castle is especially atmospheric during the Snow Lantern Festival WAttention Malaysia |

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Vol.3

Wanko soba : culture through its

I

Discover Iwate’s

bottomless noodles

made it! To Morioka, that is, a city in Iwate Prefecture about three hours north of Tokyo via bullet train. The main reason I’d come to Iwate was to sample its local specialty, wanko soba, a distinctive way of serving buckwheat noodles. You sit in front of an empty bowl while a server stands behind you, brandishing a tray laden with tiny bowls, each containing a mouthful of soba. As soon as she tips the contents of one into your bowl, your job is to slurp it down so that she can immediately top up your bowl with another mouthful as she chants out cries of encouragement. This all-you-can eat style is what wanko soba is all about. Wanko, by the way, means “bowl” in the local dialect. And so here I was, ready to take on the challenge at one of Morioka’s most prestigious wanko soba establishments.

In front of me was a selection of condiments to keep things interesting: tuna sashimi, nameko mushrooms with grated daikon radish, chicken soboro, spicy pickles, sesame seeds, nori seaweed, and pickled daikon

and cucumbers. On my left was the bowl into which the server would be emptying tiny bowls of soba and dipping sauce. In the center a tub in which to empty the sauce after slurping down the noodles.

After making sure I was comfortable, the server explained the rules: ❶ The challenge begins as soon as you open the lid of your serving bowl. ❷ 15 wanko soba bowls is the equivalent of an average-sized bowl of noodles. ❸ You can drink the dipping sauce if you like, but it can be quite filling, so it’s better to pour it into the tub. ❹ When you’re ready to stop, just replace the lid.

W

ith a cry of “hai, don don!” the server emptied the first wanko into my bowl. As soon as I slurped it down, she yelled “hai, jan jan” and filled it with another mouthful.

When she ran out of ammunition, she left to bring back another tray full of wanko. This short respite was an ideal opportunity to try the various condiments laid out in front of me. At first, I was afraid they’d take up valuable space in my stomach, but counting the number of empty bowls stacked in front of me, I realized I had

already managed to empty 15 — a good time to try some condiments and cleanse my palate.

This strategy helped stimulate my appetite and I succeeded in going through two more trays or 45 bowls. Finally, after my 50th, I realized it was probably time to stop, which was easier said than done. The server managed to tip in another bowl before I could get the lid on. She was relentless. After 10 more tries, I finally managed to replace the lid and finished with a grand total of 60 bowls!

O

nce you’ve completed the challenge, the restaurant gives you a certificate showing how many bowls you ate. If you manage to eat more than 100, you’re also given a tablet—though this time they made a special exception for my mere 60.

I really enjoyed taking on the wanko soba challenge. It was a fun and tasty experience, and I especially enjoyed the interaction with the server, who kept on encouraging me to eat with shouts of “hai, don don”. The next time you’re in Iwate, give this unique challenge a go too!

Text/Photos: Ichiko Murata

Check out the full article on the Japanese Food website.

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