WAttention Tokyo Vol.31

Tokyo Edition

Singapore - Malaysia - L.A - Taiwan - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong - Indonesia - Mexico - Australia

FREE Spring 2019 VOL.31

Your guide to the best of Tokyo

Culture Special

江戸の食 文化

The Lasting Flavor of Edo’s Culinary Culture - A Sense of Japanese History and Culture in Every Bite Area Special

渋谷散歩

SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED 浅草 お台場 神楽坂 新宿

Another 3hr Trip

Asakusa, Odaiba, Kagurazaka, Shinjuku

Love Japan? Follow

WAttention

暦 Koyomi March

弥生

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

Mt. Suribachi すり鉢山の桜

folding screens “Mt. Suribachi”

There is one place in Ueno park where

the Imperial Family built on land which was

I especially enjoy sitting on the grass. It

the Emperor’s retreat in Ueno and the site

is under an old cherry tree. I am told the

of the Tokugawa shogun family’s Kan’eiji

fleeting nature of cherry blossoms reminds

temple complex and ancestral graves.

us of the transitory nature of all things. I imagine the many, many people who have

We call this verdant place Mt. Suribachi

celebrated spring in this spot over the years.

b e c aus e i t lo ok s like an upside - dow n

There is a theor y that suggests that the

mortar pot. It is the mound which was once

history of a place remains with that place in

incorporated into the temple gardens as

one shape or another... for millennia. This

a mountain feature. Only recently was it

place, Mt. Suribachi in Ueno park draws on

discovered to have been the burial mound

such truths most deeply. Though miles from

of an ancient Yayoi king.

the ocean now, Ueno and her surroundings were once the site of Yayoi culture which

I have spread a soft spot on the ground in

ALL AN WEST

depended on the wealth of food which could

the shade of the cherry tree for you to lie

be had in the ocean’s inlet pools in the valley

on and look up into the blossoms which last

below. Many of the flame shaped pots and

but a few days. The ocean coral I use for the

Born in 1962 in the US, Allan West settled in Tokyo and eventually graduated with a Master of Fine Arts from Tokyo University of the Arts. You can visit his open studio in Yanaka, Tokyo.

clay figures which we associate with that

pink pigment will not fade for a thousand

now dead culture can be seen here in the

years. We will be gone in but a short time,

www.allanwest.jp

Tokyo National Museum in Ueno park. The

but there will be others who shall celebrate

Museum was originally the art collection of

spring here in our stead.

text & artwork / Allan West, coordination / Mariko Takahashi, photo / Keiji Okazaki

WAttention Tokyo |

01

Why “WAttention”?

Our name comes from the hope that people around the world will pay more “Attention” to “WA（和） ; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself!

VOL.31

世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention）してほしいという願い を込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Contents 01

In Harmony with the Seasons

03

Tokyo Hot News

04

Feature 1

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD. Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

The Lasting Flavor of Edo’s Culinary Culture

Editorial Advisor Mariko Takahashi Language Consultant Joseph M. Shiodah

- A Sense of Japanese History and Culture in Every Bite EDO’S TOP FOUR DISHES: Soba, Unagi, Tempura, Sushi - The Food Scene in Tokyo Today

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Feature 2

Editorial Team Ellen Hwang / Zoria Petkoska / Jude Austin Nancy Liu / Andrew Smith Hsin-Yun Chang(WEB) / Doris Lo / Mikaela Jacques

SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED:

Design Team Graphic Designers Kenji Ishida / Chew Yan Qiao

DAIKANYAMA, SENDAGAYA & OKU-SHIBUYA Follow in the footsteps of the locals

Photographers Keiji Okazaki Kenji Sugasawa / Noboru Hanamura

- Daikanyama – The new chic haven - Sendagaya – The main stage for Tokyo 2020 Olympics - Shibuya’s Shoto – A place built by tea 16

Wandering Around in Okushibu with the “ TOMODACHI GUIDE“

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Another 3hr Trip

Sales & Marketing Naoki Kiyota / Yuri Nakazawa / Chihiro Tamura Special thanks Toguri Museum of Art

- Around Tokyo in 180 Minutes - Asakusa, Odaiba, Kagurazaka, Shinjuku27

Robot Restaurant

28

Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art

広告･記事に関するお問い合わせは 和テンション株式会社

〒150-0002 東京都渋谷区渋谷2-3-8 倉島渋谷ビル401号

Perfect Harmony between Museum and Garden

Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) / 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com

Interested to find out more about the places and things featured in our magazine? Head to our official WAttention website where you can read the articles in full, with additional information.

From Editors

シンガポール事務所 WAon Pte. Ltd 2B Craig Road Singapore 089662 Phone : +65-6324-2127

Follow WAttention online

Spring 2019 今年5月1日、天皇の譲位が行われます。日本で

The new Japanese Emperor’s ascension to the throne on May 1, 2019. As the Japanese calendar is divided into periods that are based on reigns of the emperor, a change in era name will take place on the first of May. For many Japanese people, this marks the end of an era and signifies the beginning of a new one. Published in between the periods, the mission of this edition—as well as many more to come—is to bring you the best Tokyo has to offer from the past to present. Please enjoy your read and have fun exploring Japan!

-Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

Tokyo Edition

Singapore - Malaysia - L.A - Taiwan - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong - Indonesia - Mexico - Australia

FREE Winter 2018-2019 VOL.30

Your guide to the best of Tokyo

Don't miss out!

は西暦だけでなく、天皇と結びついた元号が使

用されていて、天皇の交代と同時に元号がかわ

ります。それは日本人にとっては、 「 一つの時代

の終わり」であり、 「新しい時代の始まり」でもあ

ります。 この号は、まさに二つの時代をまたいで 発行されます。 これからもWAttentionは、過去

から未来に向けて発展を続ける東京をお伝えし

ていきます。 どうぞ、 ご期待ください。 編集長: 鈴木幸香

Subscribe to WAttention Tokyo

Please fill out and fax to 03-6862-6760 or email to info-tokyo@wattention.com. We will reply within a few days.

Culture Special

Tokyoite Kaimono

You'll never miss an issue of WAttention Tokyo with home delivery. Order now and the magazine will be at your home.

[shopping]

Culture Area Special

Akasaka & Roppongi -Reinventing Elegance

Special Feature

Ibaraki -a Land of Charm Vol.30 Special Survey + Giveaway Love Japan? Follow

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［WAttention Tokyo 定期送付のご案内］ 配布エリア外にお住いの方や、 毎号お読みになりたい方のために定期送付いたします。

Four issues a year / only 1,000 JPY Name : Address : Postcode : Tel : Email : Prices listed in this issue are exclusive of tax.

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TOKYO H T NEWS Bringing you the latest hot news Spring 2019

Hundred-year-old tea shop making its presence in Omotesando Kaneju Farm, a centur y old Japanese tea legac y of Shizuoka ’s Makinohara City, is popular with tea lovers for growing premium tea leaves. This es t ablishment has re - opened with an all new experience-oriented tea salon in Omotesando on Februar y 22, offering quality sencha, a type of Japanese green tea and a seasonal theme menu. This is a golden opportunity to learn more about the charms of Japanese tea! KANEJU FARM OMOTESANDO kaneju-farm.co.jp

333 carp streamers adorning Tokyo Tower for Children’s Day

© TOKYO TOWER

From March 29 to May 6, Tokyo Tower will be fl ying exactly 333 colorful carp streamers, to correspond to the tower’s 333-meter height. These colorful fish-shaped windsocks are actually a longstanding Japanese tradition called “koinobori”, a celebration for boys on Children’s day which takes place on May 5, the last day of the Golden Week holidays. With the ability to swim up a waterfall, carps are a symbol of strength and vitality. Parents look on at the carp streamers fluttering energetically in spring wind with the hope that their children will grow up to be strong. Since 2011, there is always one giant saury fish hiding among the carp around Tokyo Tower - try and find it!

© Moomin Characters™

Tokyo Tower www.tokyotower.co.jp/en.html

Enter the fascinating world of Moomins Slated to open on March 16, A sia’s f irst Moomin-themed park, MOOMINVALLEY PARK in Saitama’s Hanno Cit y. Inside the park, explore the iconic Moominhouse, along with attractions like the lighthouse, theater, bathing hut and other facilities that bring out the charm of the stories and artwork of the creator, Tove Jansson. Prepare your pouch as the gift shop inside also has the largest collection of Moomin goods in the world and themed restaurants to dine in.

MOOMINVALLEY PARK metsa-hanno.com/en/

Renewal opening of Natural Hot Springs Heiwajima on March 28 Just a 15-minute car ride from Haneda Airport, this 24-hour hot spring facility is the best destination to relax and rejuvenate for travelers arriving early or departing late. The Natural Hot Springs Heiwajima underwent a renovation in January and will reopen on March 28 to provide a better convenience experience to its users. The renewal will include free Wi-Fi throughout the facility, “Free Lounge” equipped with device charging points while resting and complimentary suitcase locker service. A comfortable space where travelers can relax.

MUJI’s first hotel in Japan to open in Ginza Japanese lifest yle brand MUJI will open its first hotel in Japan—MUJI HOTEL GINZA—on April 4, together with MUJI Diner on B1 floor and a new global flagship store extending all the way from the first floor to the sixth.

After checking in on the sixth fl oor, guests are urged to stop by ATELIER MUJI GINZA, a cultural facility that brings together two galleries, a salon, a library and an interactive space, before heading up to their room for a

Natural Hot Springs Heiwajima www.heiwajima-onsen.jp

▼ keep reading here: ▶

WTT31 hot news

good night’s sleep. MUJI HOTEL GINZA hotel.muji.com/en/ WAttention Tokyo |

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Culture Special

The Lasting Flavor of Edo’s As one of the most enticing cities for foodies around the world,

A Sense of Japanese History and EDO’S TOP FOUR DISHES

Soba

Japan is known for its many delicious foods, but the four main Edo cuisines that have delighted the taste buds of Tokyoites for centuries are soba, unagi, tempura, and sushi.

Soba-kiri: Edo’s first culinary hit

Of the top four culinar y superstars which emerged during Japan’s Edo per iod, soba was t he f ir s t to grace the table. Soba is ac tually the Japanese word for buck wheat, the main ingredient of the popular noodle. Buckwheat grain was introduced into the Japanese diet as early as the Muromachi era (1336 – 1573) in porridge form, however soba-kiri — as noodles made from buck wheat were c alled — did not s t ar t f illing mou t hs unt il t he Edo p e r io d . S o b a - k ir i ’s in f lue n ce was so potent that many traditions revolving around the noodles are still practiced today, including the New Year ’s Eve special Toshikoshi-soba.

Another carr y- over from the era when soba ruled the restaurant scene is t he s ound made by blus terous

slurping of noodles by the typically quiet Japanese. In fac t, slurping is considered to be the best way to savor the flavor of the traditional Japanese meal, so there’s no need to shy away from noisily gobbling them down.

| WAttention Tokyo

蕎麦 Where to slurp down great tasting soba:

Kanda Yabu-soba As it celebrates its 140 th anniversary next year, Kanda Yabu-soba continues to ser ve high-qualit y buck wheat noodles to hard workers in downtown Tokyo, just as it has since the 1880’s when local craf tsmen and laborers’ patronage brought the legendary soba restaurant such great success.

Katsushika Hokusai “Mugei Taishoku”

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THE TOP FOUR

Culinary Culture Tokyo serves up plenty of delectable dishes.

Culture in Every Bite

Utagawa Hiroshige 1820s

THE TOP FOUR

Unagi

Japanese grilled eel and the history of Kabayaki

Seafood has always been a s taple of the Japanese diet thanks to the bountiful ocean that surrounds the island country, and unagi (eel) is no e xcept ion . Unag i har ve s te d f rom freshwater is prepared in a traditional st yle known as kabayaki which has its roots reaching back all the way to the Genroku period (1688 – 170 4).

Contrar y to the Kansai region’s method, which first slices open the belly of the unagi, in Edo, the process begins by splitting down the back and laying it flat. Skillfully halving the eel this way not only gives it that iconic Japanese look, but it also helps with the cooking process and keeps all that delicious sweet sauce perfectly

in place as t he lig ht , f lu f f y slice s are ske were d , broile d , s teame d , fl avored, and then fi nally grilled and fl avored again.

鰻 Where to capture the sweet flavor of Edo-style grill:

Izuei As the oldest eel restaurant in Ueno, Izuei has earned its reputation over the years as being one of the best places to enjoy the taste and aroma of delicious kabayaki and other eel cuisine.

Katsushika Hokusai “Big Eel” 1838

Izuei never uses sugar to create that famous sweet f lavor of kabayaki, and ins tead uses mirin made from the fermentation process of rice to sweeten its sauce. The result is a light, authentically f lavored eel dish that looks just as incredible as it tastes.

*There are various theories.

WAttention Tokyo |

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Culture Special Food Culture in Edo

Tempura

Japan’s deep-fried delight

Few food symbols are as iconic as the golden, crispy batter-covered shrimp tempura. The Japanese kanji “ tem” in “tempura” uses the character for “heaven”, and the addition of this traditional cuisine to the Japanese menu was cer tainly a godsend.

T he heavenl y de ep -f r ie d s ea food ascended along with soba and kabayaki, but the cooking oils used in the deep-frying process meant they had to be cooked and sold in stalls outside due to restrictions from the fire-conscious Shogunate. However, that didn’t stop merchants from setting up shop in crowded squares like Nihonbashi-minamizume to meet t he demands of hung r y Jap ane s e customers. In fact, the many tempura stalls mingling with other shops within these Edo period food courts led to a

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number of great new ideas and pairings like tempura-soba.

THE TOP FOUR

麸 天 羅 Where to sink your teeth into crispy-crunchy deep-fried tempura:

Tempura Sansada

Tsukioka Ho

nen “Mumas

o” 18 88

Have a delicious tempura meal with a side of history and culture right next the famous Asakusa Sensoji Temple.

S i n c e o p e n i n g i n 18 3 7, Te m p u r a Sansada has been frying up delicious treats for over 180 years, making it the oldest tempura restaurant in Japan.

Utagawa Hiroshige 1820s

Sushi

The evolution of sushi

No conversation about Japanese food c an go without mentioning sushi.

The popularit y of this par ticular seafood dish has made waves around the world. As mainstream as sushi i s w i t h i n t h e g l o b a l v e r n a c u l a r, you would expect it to be the most consis tent t hroug hou t t he year s .

However, unlike tempura, which has largely stayed the same, the method of eating raw fish has evolved with each generation star ting from the Nara period 1,300 years ago. It may surprise many to learn that “sushi” ac tually refers to fermented food, not raw fish. There are a number of labels used to describe the different kinds of sushi throughout the years.

Nigiri-zushi as we know it today, pink slices of raw f ish resting gently on a bed of rice, did not even begin to appear until the 18 th century. Before that, raw fish was persevered through fermentation using salt and rice for

about a year and was called nare-zushi. *Zushi is the Rendaku pronunciation form of Sushi.

THE TOP FOUR

鮨 Where to get your hands on fresh Edomae-zushi:

Kudanshita Sushimasa

Utagawa Ku niyoshi

“Takeout Su shi Suggestin g Ataka” 18

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Satisf y your appetite for traditional Edomae-zushi at the elegant Sushimasa in Kudanshita. Unlike many typical modern sushi establishments, which prefer a sweeter taste, Sushimasa preser ves the flavorfully salt y taste of classic Edo sushi rice with its special balance of sugar an d s al t . O f co ur s e, f la vo r co m e s from more than just the sum of its ingredients, and here you see how the chef crafts his dishes right at the bar of this cozy Edo-style restaurant.

*There are various theories.

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Culture Special

The Food Scene in Tokyo Today

FOODIE TOURS JAPAN: GIZEM’S TASTE OF TOKYO “No one should be missing out on Japanese food!”

Sounds like a cliché, but everything points to Gizem Sakamaki being born to do this. Even before starting her tour company Foodie Tours Japan, she was encouraged to do food tours professionally by her guests when she was an Airbnb superhost.

Growing up with the German and the Turkish cuisines, as she has her roots in both, Gizem learned how important culinary culture is and the joy it brings. She has now firmly planted her roots in both traditional and trendy Japanese cuisine as well, and aims to help people navigate the complex and rich culinary scene in Tokyo.

Sharing is Caring Gizem meets us with a beaming smile. “I am not just a guide, I’m a storyteller and a friend,” she tells me, and of course, it proves true during our tour. Her tours aim to entertain, but also inform, as she shares her insight into Japanese culture. Her groups are usually small, as she wants to give her undivided attention to everyone, take their pictures, get to know their tastes and adjust the tour on the spot if necessary.

She says she is inspired by two major concepts, “sharing economy” and “slow travel”.

Both are becoming increasingly more popular everywhere, as people nowadays are concerned about the consequences human consumption can have on the world.

Gizem makes sure to include as many mom-and-pop shops in her tour as possible, thus giving her guests an authentic experience, while also sharing business with the local community. It’s a win-win for everyone! In addition, she also organizes cultural experiences like wearing a kimono, cooking and o-zashiki games with a geisha. “By all means, you can explore by yourself, but people usually barely scratch the surface,” she says, and goes on to point out that a guide can help you dive deeper and learn more while having fun ― another win-win for sure!

TOTTI CANDY FACTORY

CROQUANTCHOU ZAKUZAKU HARAJUKU

CANDY・A・GO・GO Harajuku Honten

Gizem Sakamaki

CANDY SHOW TIME Cat Street

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cafe no.

HP: foodiejapan.com

The creative mind behind Foodie Tours Japan. She is Turkish, born in Germany, married to a Japanese national. She has been living in Japan since 2015, after falling in love with Japan during her work and travel in 2013. Foodie Tours Japan is the result of her deep love for food, crossed with a strong dedication to hospitality.

LONG! LONGER!! LONGEST!!!

A FOODIE PARADISE ON ISETAN SHINJUKU STORE’S DEPACHIKA FLOOR Depachika roughly translates to “an underground floor of a department store”, but it is much more than just a location. Not to be confused with an ordinary supermarket, a depachika, as is the case with the Isetan Shinjuku Store, is filled to the brim with ready to eat food and snacks, many freshly cooked and ready for take-away. At Isetan Shinjuku Store, you can take your depachika haul to the rooftop garden, a peaceful oasis surrounded by Shinjuku skyscrapers.

Hit the [FRESH MARKET] for exquisite fruits Isetan Shinjuku Store’s depachika also has a fresh market for fruits and vegetables. It is stocked with a variety of seasonal produce and even some rare items. Fruits of jewel-like beaut y are carefully packaged and displayed, with the utmost attention to detail.

Can’t get enough of Kara-age fried Chicken?

At “U NO ZEN” you can find at least five delicious kinds of the popular and ubiquitous Japanese kara-age fried chicken.

Bento Bonanza at [U NO ZEN]

A

B

The bentos at “U NO ZEN” are as tasty as they are pretty, perfectly put together as if they were a box of chocolates. Here are several extraordinary bento options found in Isetan Shinjuku Store’s depachika.

A Honoka Hanaikada Juniki 1,000 JPY B Kameido Masumoto Macrobiotic Bento 1,350 JPY C RF1 Vegetables Salad Bento 1,080 JPY

C

Cheers to [SUI NO ZA] and their Japanese sake Carr ying sake from all around Japan, the “SUI NO Z A” c o r n e r i n t h e I s e t a n Shinjuku Store’s depachika is a great place to try out a variety of sake. ▼ Keep Reading Here ▶

WTT31 food

WAttention Tokyo |

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SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED: DAIKANYAMA, SENDAGAYA & OKU-SHIBUYA Follow in the footsteps of the locals Shibuya crossing is indeed mesmerizing and intimidating with its endless streams of people, the colorful billboards and lights, the blending of music and chatter that lasts well until the morning. Yet, all this is just a small, super-concentrated part of the city. There are other areas of Shibuya that elude many visitors who don’t venture beyond the tried and tested.

Area Special

Daikanyama Hillside Terrace

Daikanyama The new chic haven Vibrant and lively, yet laid back, the stylish Daikanyama area is a well-known hangout for Tokyoites. Only a short walk from the dizzying Shibuya Crossing, getting lost in Daikanyama might be one of the most local Tokyoite things to do. Daikanyama is one of the parts of Tokyo that has an international spirit and is even known as the home of many embassies. People have been explaining Daikanyama’s vibe through comparisons like “Tokyo’s Little Brooklyn” or “Tokyo’s Little Europe”, because it embraces all international trends, from food to fashion. Here, you can see the city evolving, developing and changing, while staying true to its roots, protecting its cultural heritage and extending its traditions and crafts into modern businesses. Streets are calm, and sitting down to take a deep breath and enjoy the surroundings is a common theme.

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Kyu Asakura House

The building blocks of Daikanyama’s history There are culturally significant properties in Daikanyama pointing to dif ferent eras, like the Sarugakuzuka Tombs, which are ancient burial mounds dating back to around 6-7th century, and the early 20 th century Kyu Asakura House from the Taisho Era (1912-1926).

Indeed, architectural landmarks which are inspired by the area also give a spirit to that area. What gave Daikanyama the chic and international vibe of today was actually the pioneering modern architecture of the times, in the form of a public dwelling complex known simply as “Daikanyama Apartments,” which served as one of 16 such “Doujunkai apartments”. Built in 1927 at the very beginning of the Showa era, these apartments were part of the post-Kanto-earthquake reconstruction efforts.

From the bes t water suppl y and gas s y s tem, to the f ir s t earthquake-proof technologies, no cost was spared to make them the most cutting edge, advanced architecture of the time.

“Build it and they will come,” the famous saying goes, and people did exactly that.

A new wave of modernity Later, starting from the 1960s, the Asakura family gave part of their land to the architectural complex that made Daikanyama trendy and famous for the second time after the Doujunka apartments. DAIKANYAMA HILLSIDE TERRACE, built in several stages up until 1990s, was designed by famous architect Fumihiko Maki and is one of the finest examples of modernist architecture.

Stepping into the 21st centur y, the Daikanyama reputation of always being st ylish and international was cemented. In 2011, the bookstore complex “DAIKANYAMA TSUTAYA BOOKS” was opened just opposite Hillside Terrace, and it builds upon the architecture style of its predecessors. The most recent Daikanyama landmark is the LOG ROAD DAIKANYAMA complex, similar in its use of open space and with a relaxed and stylish atmosphere that has come to represent Daikanyama’s brand.

Kyu Asakura House An Important Cultural Property T his el e g an t Jap an e s e h o us e with its gardens, as serene and tranquil as if they were deep in the mountains, is a rather peaceful sp o t to e x p l o re a t r a di t i o na l Japanese residence. Built in the Taisho era (1919) for the politician Torajiro Asakura.

DAIKANYAMA HILLSIDE TERRACE Modern architecture explorations This complex has been built in several stages from the 1960s to 1990s. DAIK ANYAMA HILLSIDE TERR ACE is home to galleries, cafes, boutiques etc.

DAIKANYAMA TSUTAYA BOOKS A blend of coffee & culture This 3-building complex is heaven for bibliophiles and coffee fans.

It has a great selection of books in English and a myriad of cozy nooks where one can sip a drink, read and relax.

LOG ROAD DAIKANYAMA The newest shopping and dining complex A minimalistic wooden chic co m p l e x , h o m e to t h e l a te s t trends, both when it comes to stylish brands and cool cafes and restaurants.

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Area Special

SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED

Sendagaya The main stage for Tokyo 2020 Games

The Sendagaya area has mysteriously avoided attention up until now, despite being surrounded by Tokyo’s hippest and liveliest neighborhoods – Shinjuku, Shibuya and Harajuku. A 30-minute walk from Shibuya Station, weaving through the cute Harajuku backstreets along the way, will take you to Sendagaya. It’s also a 20-minute walk from Shinjuku, passing Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.

Peaceful, stylish, and relaxed, this area has a bit of everything that takes you off the beaten track and shows you a very different layer of the city.

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Shogi Kaikan Where professional players gather

Sporty Sendagaya The new National Stadium is currently being built on the same spot where the old National Stadium (which was demolished in 2015) once stood.

Home of the Japan Shogi A s s o c ia t io n , t h e Sh og i K aik an welcomes both fans of the game, and curious visitors who want to learn about it. Watch people play in the dojo, or pick up some amazing shogi souvenirs downstairs.

Designed by the famous contemporar y Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, this stadium is also continuing the streak of outstanding achievements in Japanese architec ture, as the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium nearby, designed by Fumihiko Maki to resemble a samurai’s helmet (‘kabuto’), a beloved landmark for architecture enthusiasts.

After initial setbacks and unexpected changes to the archi tec t and the design, i t seems that the new stadium will be welcomed with excitement. Kengo Kuma’s aesthetics are deeply connected to traditional Japanese architecture, and his use of natural materials such as wood is meant to foster harmony with nature.

National Noh Theatre Showcasing Intangible Cultural Heritage Worth visiting for the architecture alone, this beautiful building houses a restaurant and a Noh exhibition that changes seasonally. You’ll also f ind a traditional Japanese garden within its courtyard.

Exploring Sendagaya Sendagaya itself has a true Tokyo spirit in that it can seamlessly blend many different cultural asp e c t s – i t s unb ro ke n sp o r t his to r y, i t s residential calm, its cultural roots and its most modern offerings. Sendagaya’s streets hold small charming discoveries, like temples and shrines, parks, and cozy cafes and restaurants.

Hatonomori Hachiman Shrine Discover Mt. Fuji in the middle of the city This beautiful shrine and temple with a mix of Shinto and Buddhism, is unique in that it houses a miniature Mt. Fuji (a mound built to represent and be worshiped as Mt. Fuji) and a shr in e de dic a te d to sh og i ( Japanese chess).

DAVID OTTO JUICE A squeeze of healthy trends They ser ve delicious cold p re s s e d j u i ce s i n a m o d e r n and open setting. Their most popular ‘green genie ’ juice combines healthy vegetables with lemon, apple and ginger.

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Area Special

SHIBUYA UNABRIDGED

Shibuya’s Shoto A Place Built By Tea

In the western part of Shibuya lies the quiet little district of Shoto where you’ll find a variety of upscale houses, theaters, museums, and a lovely park with a pond in the middle. It may not exactly be bursting with excitement, but those who call Shoto home have come to appreciate the area’s historic charm and dignified sophistication, which go all the way back to the mid-19th century.

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The history of Shoto district

Toguri Museum of Art specializes in porcelain art

The lands that make up Shoto today were originally part of a domain belonging to the Kishu-Tokugawa clan, which they later relinquished to the Nabeshima of Saga in 1876. This happened shortly after the Meiji Restoration which, among other things, abolished the warrior class, and with it, the stipend system that samurai came to rely on. To help his retainers survive, the 11th head of the Nabeshima clan, Naohiro, imported Sayama green tea plants to modern-day Shoto and turned the area into sprawling tea fields, which down-on-their-luck samurai could work.

A 15-minute walk from Shibuya Station, the Toguri Museum of Art specializes in porcelain art curated from the personal collection of its founder, Tohru Toguri. Among their 7,000 pieces you will find an impressive assortment of Japanese, Chinese, and Korean porcelain, all accompanied by an English explanation, allowing everyone to enjoy the museum.

Shoto saw a huge transformation after the 1923 Great Kanto earthquake which laid waste to huge parts of Eastern Japan, resulting in widespread devastation and nearly 150,000 deaths.

However, Shoto emerged from it largely unscathed and used that opportunity to reinvent itself as the upscale residential neighborhood that it is today. Among its many residents was Hidesaburo Ueno, whom you might remember because of the dog statue Hachiko. Hachiko was Ueno’s dog that came to greet him at the train station whenever he finished work, and continued to do so for nine years after his master’s death. But that part of history belongs to Shibuya. What does Shoto have?

Well, the Toguri Museum, for one.

The Japanese exhibits are composed of the so called Imari or Nabeshima porcelain, which dates back to the Edo period (17th to 19 th century). The Chinese porcelain goes back a bit further.

The oldest Chinese exhibits in Toguri are from the Majiayao culture (310 0 –270 0 BC ) of the Chinese Neolithic period.

Interestingly, Korean porcelain are also found in the museum’s collec tion. Legend goes that some of the f ir s t Japanese porcelain were actually produced by a Korean artist named Yi Sam-pyeong, who was brought over to Japan in the 16 th century

by Nabeshima Naoshige, from the same Nabeshima clan that later took control of Shoto. Today, the museum’s Korean porcelain includes pieces that go as far back as the Kor yo dynasty (918-1392). All in all, Shoto is rich enough in history and art to satisfy any visitor to the district.

BYLINE: Cezary Jan Strusiewicz

Bowl, decorated with a dragon among clouds and circles design in underglaze blue, overglaze enamels and gold. Imari ware. Edo period. Late 17th -early 18 th century.

D i s h , d e co r a te d w i t h p e o n y a n d w a v e d e s i g n i n underglaze blue and overglaze enamels. Nabeshima ware. Edo period. Late 17th -early 18 th century.

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The Toguri Museum of Art is dedicated to beautiful porcelain, particularly Edo-era Japanese porcelain. The museum store offers a variety of souvenirs, books and so on.

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Wandering Around in Okushibu with the “TOMODACHI GUIDE” Typically, I’m not a huge fan of guided tours. They do provide an easy way to travel, but I always find myself wanting more. However, travelling solo can mean getting lost, language barriers and missing the hidden gems you didn’t know were there. This is where WANDER COMPASS comes in.

What is the “TOMODACHI GUIDE”?

WANDER COMPASS is a fresh take on guided tourism offering personalized tours of Tokyo in English or Japanese. Different from other tours, WANDER COMPASS aims to provide travellers with an experience that includes both the no-stress aspect of a guided tour and the freedom of travelling on your own – essentially, a compass that you can wander with.

Your compass comes in the form of “TOMODACHI GUIDE”, or “friend guides”, local Tokyoites helping you plan your perfect tour. Whether you have a list of places you’d like to visit, or no idea at all, Tomodachi Guides will whip up a plan using their extensive local knowledge and your personal interests to discover Tokyo. Aside from Tomodachi Guides, WANDER COMPA SS also provides a number of ser vices including hotel booking , lug gage s torage and wi-f i router rent al, making WANDER COMPASS the ultimate traveller’s hub. As 16

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you can imagine, I was excited at the prospect of a free-form tour and decided to check out this hub myself.

Arriving at the WANDER COMPASS hub, I was greeted by the enthusiastic staff and introduced to Timo, my Tomodachi Guide for the day. Having spent a lot of time in Tokyo, I asked Timo to show me somewhere off the beaten track. We started off with a survey on the in-store tablets so Timo could get a feel for my interests, the way I like to travel, and the things I might like to experience. She asked about places I’ve already been and we flicked through a few books introducing lesser-known attractions. I was blown away by all the options I had in front of me, so Timo asked what kind of places and things I enjoy in general. We narrowed the list down to coffee, boutiques and cityscapes, which took us to Okushibu.

Discover the inner Shibuya with the TOMODACHI GUIDE Okushibu is the local way of saying “Oku-Shibuya”, which translates to “Inner Shibuya”, and refers to the Kamiyamacho and Tomigaya districts of Shibuya. Timo led me past Shibuya 109 to the Bunkamura and declared that Okushibu pretty much starts there. We had only walked a few minutes, so I was surprised to find that I had never ventured past this point myself. Showing me her map, Timo said we could start on a loop of the area, and stop or wander in any direction that took my fancy. This was great.

COFFEE SUPREME

While it’s not on every travellers to-do list, I like to look at houses and cityscapes to get a feel for the places I visit. I had mentioned this, but was still surprised when Timo started the tour in the residential streets of Okushibu. Surrounded by an eclectic mixture of houses and apartments and people coming and going, I thoroughly enjoyed just strolling and chatting to Timo, and started to get a feel for Okushibu. I felt that Timo and I were becoming friends and that she was enjoying the tour almost as much as I was. The compact but stylish neighbourhood eventually broke out into a small park, which I honestly would never have known was there. After a short break by the pond, we headed to the main street of Okushibu.

RHYTHM_AND_BOOKS.

Distracted by all the diverse boutiques, I almost failed to notice the smell of coffee beans lingering on every street corner.

While the main street is a boutique-lovers heaven, the side streets of Okushibu are dominated by cafés and bars. We checked out a few of these establishments, which I noted down for future trips, and I was even a little embarrassed that I, the self-proclaimed coffee lover, hadn’t discovered this collection of local and international cafés myself.

HABANA

I wasn’t tired and I didn’t feel rushed, yet I had explored a good chunk of Okushibu, and even felt a little sad that my tour would soon come to an end. Almost as if she had read my mind, Timo encouraged me to pop in and say hi if I was ever near the WANDER COMPASS hub, which really put the cherry on top of the Tomodachi Guide experience for me.

How to get a special present.

5 MIN WALK FROM SHIBUYA STATION

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1 Go to WANDER COMPASS Bring a WAttention

Magazine and you ‘ll receive these presents! “one for each”

*Numbers are limited.

2 Go to CROSSING PHOTO

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Shibuya Scramble Intersection is right below the observation space where you can take the perfect shot with the best angle.

Open: Mon-Sun 10:00 am - 8:00 pm Contact: 03-5456-6361 wc_shibuya@wandercompass.jp

Address: Shibuya Station B1 fl oor, 2 Chome 1-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

WANDER COMPASS SHIBUYA is located next to Shibuya 109, in the underground passageway near Shibuya Station’s exit 3A.

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3A S A K U S A 浅草 HR ANOTHER

TRIP

Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

浅草文化観光センター

Situated in Asakusa, Sensoji is an

Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center

attraction that paints a perfect

A tourist information center located inside a unique building in front of the Asakusa Kaminarimon Gate. The building is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of the bestknown Japanese architects. The ceiling and the interior are quite interesting so don’t even consider skipping it.

The night view of Asakusa from the observatory on the 8 th floor’s terrace is also highly recommended.

picture of what the bustling streets of Tokyo’s old town area were like during the Edo Period.

Chonin, a class of townsmen including merchants, craftsmen, and artisans who emerged during this time, are still very active today and play an influential role in local businesses. Aside from Tokyo’s kitchenware capital Kappa-bashi and other shopping streets, there are also several historic gourmet destinations to keep you occupied.

浅草たつみや

Asakusa Tatsumiya With an 80-year history, the kimono shop Asakusa Tatsumiya never fails to keep up with the latest trends. Its third generation owner has been incorporating Japanese kimono sashes into tumblers, cushions, centerpiece, and a wide range of goods. With these ingenious souvenirs, you can easily bring home the beauty of a kimono. Do drop in if you are looking for something unique and authentic!

和えん亭 吉幸

Waentei-Kikko Located in the vicinity of Sensoji, Waentei-Kikko is a haven where you can enjoy traditional Japanese haute cuisine. Lovers of music, prepared to be charmed by the owner’s live Tsugaru-shamisen (a three-string instrument) performance, which always adds a touch of magic to the atmosphere. Experience authentic Japanese hospitality and culture right here.

浅草寺

Sensoji Temple Sensoji is a temple with 1,400 years of history and a must-visit for any traveler to Tokyo. The symbolic Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) leading to the temple appeared about 1,000 years ago when it was built along with other major structures in the complex. While here, don’t forget to stroll down the 200-meter thriving shopping street, Nakamise, for an adventure of food and culture.

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茶御飯東京

CHAGOHAN TOKYO No one would disagree that Japanese cuisine is among the best in the world.

Chagohan is now offering spectacular cooking courses for those interested in learning the secrets to making delicious classic Japanese dishes, such as sushi, sukiyaki, katsudon, and more. You can also sign up for vegetarian courses, sake tasting classes, and tea ceremony sessions to gain a deeper insight into Japanese dining. かまた刃研社 伝法院通り

Denbouin-dori With a plethora of retro shops selling crafts and accessories, Denbouin-dori is a great place to experience the culture and atmosphere of Edo. Not only are the shutters decorated with Edo-style paintings, shop roofs all have traditional Japanese tiles and the wooden billboards are1 written in Japanese AD_3HRS_KAMATA_TKY31.pdf 2019/02/06 15:38:31 calligraphy. Denbouin-dori will surely satisfy the cultural curiosity of tourists.

KAMATA HAKENSHA Kamata Hakensha has been serving the neighborhood for over 90 years and has earned a reputation for selling quality Japanese knives and being able to breathe life back into any knife. While many tourists come with a mission to find the right knife for themeselves or friends, others come to have their old knives maintained. As the saying goes, to do a good job, one must first sharpen one’s tools. Find out the criteria for a good knife from the knife masters at Kamata Hakensha.

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Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

お台場

Odaiba, an artificial island in Tokyo Bay, is one of the many former fortresses constructed at the end of the Edo Period to stop U.S. Commodore Matthew Perry’s Black Ships from invading Japan. Today, it has become a popular shopping district, attracting not only tourists from all over the world, but also locals curious about the most advanced entertainment technology. The drastic change over the past hundreds of years is something no one would have expected back in the Edo Period!

Start exploring Odaiba from Aomi Station.

森ビル デジタルアート ミュージアム：エプソン チームラボ ボーダレス

MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: teamLab Borderless Making full use of the digital technology evolving every day, an amazing “world of new experiences” was born, and subsequently integrated into the world of unique aesthetics in Japan.

Anyone can roam around this borderless world and explore and discover new things freely. This is “MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: teamLab Borderless”. “teamLab Borderless”, boasting an area of over 10,000 square meters, consists of the 5 worlds of “Borderless World”, “Athletics Forest”, “Future Park ”, “Forest of Lamps” and “EN TEA HOUSE”, throughout which, about 60 digital artworks are constantly changing and evolving.

You can freely walk around the space and not only view the work in the space of your choice, you can also put yourself in and become a part of the work itself. It is not just the physical space isolating the work from the viewer that is removed, even the conceptual lines drawn between the work and the viewer do not exist here. This digital art museum incorporates sounds, lights, images, and you as part of the artworks. Since the exhibited works are frequently updated, every new visit will have a fresh impression. Wouldn’t you like to experience a truly borderless world? Please come and pay us a visit!

シンボルプロムナード公園

Symbol Promenade Park Symbol Promenade Park connects Aomi, Ariake, and Odaiba areas and is known for its beautiful green landscape. The area also offers an unobscured view of Tokyo Bay, which is most charming during sunset when the skyscrapers in the far distance light up, creating an unbelievably romantic setting.

A slow stroll in the park is an indulgent experience you will treasure for a lifetime. ©2018 Tokyo Port Terminal Corp. / Kou Majima

©2018 Tokyo Port Terminal Corp. / Kou Majima

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東京ジョイポリス

Daiba Station

Tokyo Joypolis

Tokyo Teleport Station

TOKYO-JOYPOLIS by CA Sega Joypolis boasts over 20 exciting, fun and virtual entertainment attractions that will leave you spellbound. Experience the adrenaline rush in 3D car drifting and turn yourself into a Transformer! This state-of-the-art attraction is a gamer’s paradise!

Aomi Station

Rinkai Line

Fune-nokagakukan Station

Telecom Center Station

台場一丁目商店街

©しげの秀一/講談社 ©SEGA All manufactures,cars,names,brands and associated imagery featured in this game are trademarks and/or copyrighted materials of their respective owners,All rights reserved.

Daiba 1-chome Shoutengai Interested in how Japanese lived back in the 1950s? The retro décor and vintage goods at Daiba 1-chome Shoutengai in DECKS shopping mall will make you feel like you have leapt through time back to the past. Aside from events and arcade games reminiscent of the good old days, traditional candies are also sold here. It’s time to get retro and relive the era!

東京トリックアート迷宮館

Tokyo Trick Art Museum Located on the 4th floor of DECKS Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall at Odaiba, Tokyo Trick Art Museum is separated into different areas by themes, such as the Edo period, ninja and Japanese monsters, famous artworks and brain training. Riding on the back of a tiger or flying through the sky with ninjas are all possible.

You can also download the “TRICKAR” app on your smartphone and turn the pictures you take into a movie—a new way to experience art.

© 2010 Paramount Pictures Corporation.

Manufactured under license from TOMY Company,Ltd. ® and/or TM & © 2015 TOMY.All Rights Reserved.TM & ® denote Japan Trademarks.For distribute in Japan only. ※「トラン 「TRANSFORMERS」は株式会社タカラトミーの登録商標です。 スフォーマー」

3KAGURAZAKA HR ANOTHER

Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

TRIP

神楽坂

不二家飯田橋神楽坂店

FUJIYA Iidabashi Kagurazaka Shop Fujiya is a hundred-year-old cake shop chain famous for their strawberry cake. Most Japanese consider the shop’s mascot, Peko-chan, as part of their childhood memories. At the Kagurazaka shop, you can get your hands on the shop’s original Peko-chanyaki, a traditional Japanese baked cake that comes with a variety of fillings and take a photogenic picture of the scrumptious filling oozing out of the freshly baked dough.

Although Kagurazaka is close to Tokyo’s entertainment district, Shinjuku, it has a character all of its own. As a prominent hanamachi (geisha district) that thrived from the Edo Period (1603-1868) to the Showa Period (1926-1989), Kagurazaka is well-known for its refined, nostalgic atmosphere. Venture inside the

神楽坂佑楽

Japanese Pottery Shop YOULUCK When you turn from Kagurazaka Street to the back ally, a totally different world appears before your eyes. The Kagura path has a nostalgic atmosphere, and you can escape from the bustle of Tokyo for a while.

Here, there is a specialty shop named “YOULUCK”, which specializes in Japanese pottery selected carefully from all over Japan. Because all the works in the shop are handmade, each one has different texture, color and expression.

The work is not only for appreciation but can enrich your daily life as well.

cobbled alleys and you will discover tons of historic geisha houses and sophisticated shops that embody the Japanese aesthetic sense and precise craftsmanship.

English explanation support from the staff, local hotel and overseas delivery service of products are also available. So, no worries about baggage. Buy a Japanese pottery full of charm and it will remind you of the memories in Japan.

兵庫横丁

Hyogo Yokocho Alley Hyogo Yokocho is an atmospheric, stone-paved alley packed with Japanese restaurants and hotels that will take you back in time. The area used to be a storage area for arsenals in the past, so the word hyogo (arsenal in Japanese) is in its name.

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梅花亭

Baikatei Established over 80 years ago, this beloved Japanese confectionery shop offers a line of traditional sweets made using 23 types of handmade sweet bean fillings. These incredible fillings follow meticulous and painstaking recipes that detail the amount of beans, sugar, and condiments that go into each blend. Visitors can take a peek at the amazing skills of the pastry chefs through the shop window.

Scan the QR code for more information about the featured places in Kagurazaka Tok yo

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Juttoku.

Japanese incense has a long history and rich culture. Fragrant wood, such as camphor and cedar, are processed into powder before adding an assortment of herbal ingredients. It is then molded into different shapes for different purposes. Burning the incense releases a gentle, natural fragrance that creates a warm, relaxing ambience. This incense specialty shop runs a press incense/incense sachet DIY workshop for beginners. 善国寺

のレン MURO 神楽坂店

Zenkokuji Temple

NOREN MURO Kagurazaka

This 400-year-old temple was moved to the current location only some 200 years ago to look after Kagurazaka’s neighborhood, which was a residential area for samurai at first. Later on, the community grew to include a variety of shops and geisha houses.

Pay a visit to Zenkokuji Temple to enjoy its architectural splendor and experience the precious heritage of Kagurazaka.

Kagurazaka functioned as a trade hub for rice, miso, soy sauce, and many other goods in the past because of its close proximity to a cargo handling center. Inspired by this history, the shop was established to introduce the splendor of some Japanese condiments like koji, a fungus used to ferment soybeans. Food lovers will definitely see shopping here as a fun treasure hunt.

H a n d m a de p i e c e s o f c u l t u r e , encapsu lating the spirit of wabi -sabi

Ja p a n e s e Po t t e ry Sh o p YOULUCK

This Japanese pottery shop features amazing handmade items fired in traditional kilns, available especially in Kagurazaka, an area steeped in classic Japanese atmosphere. These ceramic souvenirs will be your best memories from Japan!

2-10 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 162-0825, Japan 81-(0)3-6228-1178 uluck.jp/en/ @kagurazakauluck

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3S H I N 新 HR ANOTHER

Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

TRIP

宿J U K U バスタ新宿

An average of 3.47 million people use Shinjuku Station every day, making it the world’s busiest station according to the Guinness World Records. Apart from being the place where JR lines, private lines and subway lines converge, Shinjuku is also known as the

Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal Shinjuku Service Center

Although Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal is a transportation hub for express buses heading all over Japan, it also has a variety of restaurants offering a satisfying choice of food and clothes shops where you can kill time before your departure. If you have trouble finding a coin locker, the Shinjuku Service Counter on the third floor is there to help, offering luggage delivery and storage services. After stowing away your luggage, it’s time to stroll around and enjoy the last three hours of your trip in Tokyo.

administrative center of Tokyo due 東京都庁展望台

to the presence of the majestic

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Observatories

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. You will have no trouble

One of the must-dos in Tokyo is to take in the city’s awe-inspiring, magnificent skyline. Tokyo SKYTREE® and Tokyo Tower both offer great views but Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building is the place where you can enjoy the city’s horizon for free. Measuring 202 meters in height, the observatory decks offer a glimpse of Mt Fuji on a clear day between December and February. It might be a good idea to wave goodbye to the iconic mountain before departure.

finding fancy restaurants and fun entertainment in this town which never sleeps. Visiting Shinjuku will definitely make your trip more enjoyable and memorable.

花園神社

Hanazono Shrine

新宿御苑

Shinjuku Gyoen Established over 100 years ago, this park was an Imperial garden before being opened to the public following World War II. Shinjuku Gyoen combines three styles of garden: French Formal, English Landscape and Japanese Traditional. It is a marvel of the perfect blend of Japanese and Western aesthetics and really worth a visit. From cherry blossoms in spring to the soft greens of summer, Shinjuku Gyoen is an ideal place to enjoy the change of seasons.

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Hanazono Shrine was known as the protector of the district long before Tokugawa Ieyasu’s Edo Period. Before its relocation, the historic shrine was housed at the site of today’s Isetan Shinjuku Department Store. Due to a stage being built inside during reconstruction after a fire, entertainment shows and traditional dances began to take place here in the Edo Period.

The shrine is a popular place to pray for good business and prosperity. Why not try your luck here?

天然温泉テルマー湯

Natural Hot Spring Thermae-yu Enjoy Izu’s Jindai-no-yu natural hot spring right in the bustling heart of Shinjuku. This is a great place to relax the mind and body for travelers. Known as the beautification spring, the mild water is high in quality and can soften the skin. There are six other relaxing facilities including carbonic acid bath and sauna to choose from. Not a bad idea to soak in before flying off.

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What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Japan? Many people associate Japan with samurai, a culture that is not only confined to history books but still alive in modern Japan. The Samurai Museum introduces the authentic samurai spirit through a display of relics, armors and all sorts of items. A free 60 to 90 minute guided tour is recommended for those with more time. Put on a samurai helmet and costume for a photo shoot and get blown away by a reenactment of a sword fight.

BicCamera Shinjuku West Store

Tochomae Station

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BICQLO Shinjuku Station

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新宿西口思い出横丁

Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho, a bunch of old, low story buildings occupying the prime location of Shinjuku, is the best place to observe the life of office workers in Japan as they come here after work for a drink to unwind. It is a trip down memory lane for many because of the well-preserved atmosphere of the Showa Period (1926-1989). The eateries and bars here provide mouthwatering cuisine and a place of communication between travelers and locals.

西武新宿駅

Seibu-Shinjuku Station Seibu-Shinjuku Station will have a brighter interior with easy-to-read, user-oriented signs from March 2019, after major renovation. For tourists traveling to the historic town Kawagoe or heading to the suburbs of Tokyo, the newly established SEIBU Tourist Information Center, which offers multilingual services, will be of great help. Seibu-Shinjuku Station is your gateway to the rest of Tokyo!

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ロボット レストラン

ROBOT RESTAURANT

WAttention Reporter

Dennis Owen Dugan

This Way to Robotic Rhapsody

As you pass through the Kabukicho district of Shinjuku, you would be hardpressed not to notice it. Even before arriving there, it’s grandiose presence can be felt throughout the area not unlike the towering Godzilla statue perched just a few blocks away. Glittering neon lights are ubiquitous in Kabukicho, but seemingly around every corner you’ll find the largest ones directing you to the Robot Restaurant.

There’s no shortage of themed restaurants in Tokyo and I’ve been to a few. What could be so different about this one? That’s what I said to myself the dozens of times I had passed by as my curiosity steadily grew. How naive I was. If you were to let your imagination go completely unchecked, you might get lucky and guess a fraction of what kind of phenomenon to expect.

Thirty minutes to showtime. As guests are gradually filed into the building, the first thing you’ll notice are the garish surroundings. Every inch of the walls, ceilings and floors is decorated in loud colors, reflective surfaces, comic book speech bubbles, multicolored lizards and basically anything you can think of that

screams pandemonium. The waiting area is just as flashy with mirrored walls, and gold trimmed furniture. A band dressed like futuristic robots churns out some jazzy tunes from the corner while guests enjoy drinks in the comfort of their shell-shaped velour chairs. All of this and the show hasn’t even started. After a bit of rest and relaxation, everyone is moved into the main performance area. It’s different from your standard theater type seating and certainly unlike any restaurant I’ve ever been to.

The guests are sat on either of two sides of tiered seats which border a floor that acts as the stage and it’s a full house. A variety of carts peddling draft beer, popcorn and souvenirs before the final show begins, disappear as the lights dim.

What starts with a flurry of taiko drummers dressed in ornate costumes, only manages to escalate from there. One minute, you’re watching a few ninjas shred their guitars and the next, a giant inflated panda is barreling into an onslaught of evil robot henchmen. The entire performance twists and turns at a relentless pace that will have your head spinning. Each set piece manages to top the previous one’s

from America

overindulgence of madness and the crowd loves it. If you came for robots, you’ll get your fill, and then some. Animals, insects and even dinosaurs all get a robotic representation here. The performance goes well beyond the scope of what the venue’s name insinuates. Dance numbers, singing, sword fights and lasers are just a few examples of what’s on offer.

There’s a lot to see in Tokyo but there’s nothing quite like the Robot Restaurant.

The rhapsodic amalgam of traditional and modern Japanese culture simply can’t contain itself, so its luster spills on to the neighboring streets. Let your curiosity get the best of you and follow the lights. You’ll come away with something you certainly haven’t seen before.

“Before we came we thought we’d see robots and have some food, but now that we’re inside we think it might be more than we expected with all of the lights and lasers playing on the screens!”

Jennifer and Neil from Texas, USA (Niece and Uncle)

Chloe and Filipe from Perth, Australia (sister and brother)

“After seeing Anthony Bourdain come here on his TV show, we think we know what we’re going to see. A big overgrown colorful extravaganza that only the Japanese mind could conceive!”

Robot Restaurant Address: 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku Time: 4pm - 11pm (Shows: 4pm, 5:55pm, 7:50pm, 9:45pm) 1 show approx. 90 min Admission: 8,000 JPY Access: 5-min walk from JR and Tokyo Metro Shinjuku Station

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Collage & Montage

Date: March 23

Joseph Cornell (1903-1972), an American artist who was a pioneer of collage, montage and assemblage art best known for his box art in two-and-three-dimensional formats between the 1930s and 1940s. He also made an avant-garde experimental filmmaker. This exhibition will feature around 50 of his works to the Japan masses. In addition, rare screening of his films will be showcased.

June 16, 2019 Date: March 23 June 16, 2019

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