WAttention Tokyo Vol. 21

Tokyo Edition - Taiwan - Los Angeles - Malaysia - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong- Indonesia - Singapore - Mexico

FREE 2016 Autumn issue VOL.21

SPECIAL FEATURE 1

Stroll Around the Charmingly Nostalgic

Ningyocho & Suitengu SPECIAL FEATURE 2

Ninja

The Enigmatic Shadow Warriors of Japan

What is

o Trip t aido Hokk

WAttention

Ninja?

You may already know Ninja from comic books and animations, right?But you might not know that Ninja were originally informants, whose primary job was to collect intelligence for Samurai.

WAttention is now recruiting foreign reporters who want to collect and spread information about Japan as WAttention Ninja.

Eat local speciality

WA

Join Us!

The perks of becoming a WAttention Ninja are endless!

Go on interview trips around Japan for FREE Meet with people you don’t normally see and try unique experiences Participate in numerous events and conduct backstage interviews Visit up-and-coming cafes and go to pre-opening restaurant receptions

WANTED: WAttention Ninja!

Furthermore, depending on the number and quality of articles you publish, there are numerous awards waiting for you.

Those who excel at being Ninja have the chance to work for WAttention as a professional contributor.

Interested? Wanna know how to become a WAttention Ninja?

Go to : http://www.wattention.com/wattention-ninja

暦 Koyomi

9th September

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

Choyo no Sekku

重陽の節供

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

The “yang” of the “yin-yang” concept is thought to become too strong and hence inauspicious on dates which are oddnumbered in both day and month. The Sekku, or seasonal festival, became an event to counter this threat. Within these days, September 9th is known as the Choyo no Sekku, as it is the day when the number strongest in “yang” is doubled. It has long been believed that when the power of the nature becomes too overbearing, the life of mankind is endangered. In order to avert that danger and pray for a long life, chrysanthemum flowers are soaked in water or sake and drunk for its blood-

cleansing properties. In a time when most illnesses were thought to be caused by impurities in the blood, the chrysanthemum was a type of precious kampo medicine that only the royalty could afford. One of the rituals carried out during the Choyo no Sekku is to place a wad of silk on top of chrysanthemum flowers and to use the parts that absorbed the flower’s dew to wipe one’s body to cleanse oneself. The folksong, “Kikudoji”, used frequently in noh performances, is inspired by the eternal spirit of the chrysanthemum when it bursts into full bloom. In fact, during the Heian era, ladies from the nobility would wipe

their faces and bodies with chrysanthemum dew in the hopes of staying young. For the peasants, it was a day to enjoy the chestnut.

We now know the chestnut as being a health food rich in vitamin C, and well-balanced in terms of protein and fat. People in the past knew this from experience and eating this in the hopes of longevity on day of the Choyo is a festival tradition that cannot be missed.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

WAttention Tokyo

01

※日本文化の魅力を世界に発信する「WAttention Tokyo」 事業は東京都中小企業振興公社の推奨事業です。

Why WAttention ?

WAttention is named so with the hope that people in the world would pay more Attention to WA （和）; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself!

VOL.21

世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention） してほしいという 願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Contents

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.

01 In Harmony with Seasons

Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

03 Tokyo Hot News Feature 1 Stroll 04

Editorial Advisors Ayako Sogo, Miki Onishi

Around Ningyocho & Suitengu

05 Retro, Fun and Atmospheric: Amazake Yokocho 08 Sophisticated Taste

09 As Traditional As It Gets: Arts and Crafts

10 T-CAT Connects Airports to Central Tokyo @ Suitengu & Ningyocho

12

21

Editorial Team Megumi Feyen, Nancy Liu, Tabea Greuner, Shinobu Yamamoto Melissa Wullur(WEB)

07 Unfortunately Unlucky? Visit the Seven Gods of Fortune

Feature 2

Design Team

Graphic Designers

Kenji Ishida, Amber Chen

Ninja - The Enigmatic Shadow Warriors of Japan

Photographers

18 Togakushi: Home of Ninja and Mystery

Kenji Sugasawa, Kenji Okazaki, Noboru Hanamura Sales & Marketing Akihiro Shimomura, Yuri Nakazawa

The Perfect Harmony of Art, Architecture and Nature Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art

Special thanks Rieko Ido

22 Go North From Tokyo – Picturesque Tohoku

広告・記事に関するお問い合わせは

和テンション株式会社 〒150-0002 東京都渋谷区渋谷2-3-8 倉島渋谷ビル401号 Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) / 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com

24 Robot Restaurant – Mind-Blowing Show in Shinjuku 25 BQpedia – Your Guide to the Underbelly of Japanese Cuisine 26 Sending WAttention Your Wonderings About Japan 27

Tokyo Must Do

シンガポール事務所 Minook International (S) Pte Ltd 2B Craig Road Singapore 089662 Phone : 65-6324-2127 ロサンゼルス事務所 Team J station, Inc. 2383 Lomita Blvd., Suite 114 Lomita, CA.90717 Phone : 1-310-782-8279

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In This Issue

Autumn 2016 Do keep in mind that Asakusa and Ueno are not the only places where you can experience the authentic atmosphere of the old Edo!

The Rio 2016 Olympics drew to a close while we were drafting this issue and as the Olympic flag was passed over to the first female governor of Tokyo, Yuriko Koike, we could not help but feel that the countdown to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics has finally started, ushering in a new and exciting era for Japan.

Also, for ninja fans and history buffs, you will love our feature story on the history and tradition of ninja art.

Shelve away comic books and movies as we show you what real ninja is all about.

However despite the many advancements and new constructions being done, rest assured that Japan would never lose sight of its history and traditions.

Tokyo still has many charms yet to be discovered. In this issue, we will take you to Ningyocho and Suitengu, a nostalgic area with easy access from Narita and Haneda Airport.

Don't miss out!

For those who want to know more about Tokyo, send us your questions and wonderings. WAttention is dedicated to deliver the latest news and interesting cultural information, so stay tuned!

- Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

Subscribe to WAttention Tokyo

Please fill out and fax to 03-6862-6760 or email to info-tokyo@wattention.com. We will reply within a few days.

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Four issues a year / only 1,000 yen Name Address Postcode Tel Email

: : : : : Prices listed in this issue are exclusive of tax.

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WAttention Tokyo

TOKYO HOT

EWS

Bringing you the latest hot news

2 Special exhibition: Léonard Foujita and His Models @ Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art From September 17, 2016 to January 15, 2017, selected works of Léonard Foujita will be on display at Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art in Sakura City, Chiba. As one of the most successful artists working in the West during the 20th century, the Japanese-born French artist is best

1 Beyond your ordinary onigiri onigiri stand Gyu!

known for his paintings with “milk white” backgrounds.

To spread unlimited possibilities of Japanese

addition to the exhibition, the museum has a permanent collection ranging from impressionists such as Monet and

soul food, onigiri (rice ball) globally, Onigiri Society will produce a new-style onigiri stand with cafe and bar menu in Laforet HARAJUKU on September 30. Traditional onigiri with salmon or pickled plum, onigiri-petit with unique fillings such as coriander or matcha in one bite size and ultimate luxury onigiri such as caviar or wagyu are available.

The special exhibition will focus on the models in his works to reveal a new aspect of the painter’s unique art style. In

Renoir to modern artists such as Picasso and Chagall, and the 20th century American art. http://kawamura-museum.dic.co.jp/en/ * For more information about the museum, see P.22

Portrait of Anna de Noailles 1926 Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art ©Fondation Foujita / ADAGP, Paris & JASPAR, Tokyo, 2016 G0445

http://www. onigiri-japan.com/ archives/3421

3 A new landmark near Tokyo Station KYOBASHI EDOGRAND Featuring a 31-meter-tall galleria and numerous open spaces, this new shopping complex is scheduled to open in autumn in Kyobashi, a centrally located area just 5 minutes from Tokyo Station.

Among the strong lineup of brands to open in KYOBASHI EDOGRAND is Toshi Yoroizuka TOKYO, the flagship pâtisserie & café run by famous pastry chef Toshi Yoroizuka. You may also find out what the area has on offer for tourists at Tokyo Chuo City Tourist Information Center on the 1F and B1F. http://www.edogrand.tokyo/

4 Locals Know Best! PlanB When it comes to traveling, we all have a long list of things we want to see, experience and eat, but so often, we don’t really know where to go to get the best experience.

“PlanB,” a newly launched web service will solve this dilemma. It’s a new dining concierge service where your preferences are met with precision. Knowledgeable and helpful concierges are here to help you find the right restaurants.

WAttention signed up as a PlanB concierge recently. Our multinational staff is well versed in Japanese culture and customs. With many years of publishing travel magazines, we have in-depth knowledge and information only locals know. With all our expertise combined, we can assist you with more than just suggesting certain cuisine, we can create other itineraries as well. We are here to help you get the best and truly authentic experience in Japan! https://plnb.jp/en/ (Accept inquiries in English) * PlanB offers dining options at the moment, but plans to expand its services to other areas.

A screenshot of the website

© Drecom Co., Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

WAttention Tokyo

03

Stroll Around the Charmingly Nostalgic

Ningyocho & Suitengu

With its well-established history as an entertainment district, Ningyocho prides itself on its welcoming atmosphere and warm hospitality. Set within this traditional backdrop is the lively spirit of Tokyo’s past known as Iki. For this issue, WAttention editors asked the Guest Relations Officer at the Royal Park Hotel to unveil the nostalgic charms of Ningyocho.

Getting the Latest Information at Royal Park Hotel

You can buy your Airport Limousine Bus ticket at the hotel’s front desk

With just one phone call from T-CAT, friendly staff will help you carry your luggage to the hotel

Situated in the heart of Ningyocho and Suitengu area, Royal Park Hotel is a major landmark which boasts convenience at its doorstep. Guests can go to various attractions by taking either the Airport Limousine Bus at Tokyo City Air Terminal (T-CAT) or subways, both of which are just several minutes away from the hotel on foot.

Not only that, as early as ten years ago, the hotel led an effort to create bilingual menus for restaurants in the neighborhood, hoping to make travel more accessible and enjoyable for foreign tourists.

“Aside from longstanding shops, Ningyocho is full of local establishments. Whichever you choose to drop in, you will be wowed by the exquisite taste and warm hospitality—a unique characteristic of Ningyocho,” said Ms. Kaneko, guest relations officer at Royal Park Hotel. Tokyo’s best spots are not just Asakusa and Ueno. Your trip would not be complete without a visit to Ningyocho and Suitengu!

An Authentic Old Town with Century-old Hospitality Ningyocho flourished during the Edo Period (1603-1868) as a bustling pleasure district, catering to both peasants and the working class. In those heydays, the area was full of theaters performing kabuki, a traditional Japanese drama featuring stylized dancing and singing, and traditional Japanese puppet theater bunraku. Known as “a sleepless town,” Ningyocho was always bounded with people from morning to night, drinking and having a great time. Along with the crowd came puppeteers and craftsmen making theatrical dolls. Thus Ningyocho derived its name: ningyo means “doll” and cho means “town”.

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WAttention Tokyo

In 1872, a popular shrine called Suitengu moved to the area, attracting even more people, many of whom had come to pray for safe childbirth. Back then, there was no lack of tasty local eateries, high-end restaurants and nightlife establishments where geisha entertained patrons. Today, visitors can take a glimpse into Ningyocho’s glorious past through shops with hundreds of years of history and tradition. Join us as we take you on a tour to experience the authentic traditional experience of Ningyocho.

Retro, Fun and Atmospheric: Amazake Yokocho Amazake Yokocho is a shopping street, the history of which dates back to the early Meiji Period (1868~1912) when a shop at the main entrance called Owariya started selling amazake, a sweet drink made from fermented rice. Today, people still line up for the traditional beverage regardless of season. Many stores provide benches for customers and welcome lively conversations. Why not take an afternoon stroll along the street for a cup of amazake and step inside some of the age-old shops for a peep into history?

Futaba Tofu

The Power of Soybeans

Take a rest on the bench in front of the shop and chill out with iced amazake

The owner is cheerful and friendly.

Amazake 380 yen per bottle or 200 yen per cup.

Founded in 1907, Futaba has been carrying on the legacy of tofu-making for generations. The shop specializes in fresh tofu, ganmodoki, fried tofu fritter with chopped vegetables, but they have one unexpected best-seller: amazake! Old photos of previous generations hung on wall evoke a strong vintage feel.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-4-9, Chuo Hours: 7am - 7pm (Mon - Sat), 10am - 6pm (Sun)

COLUMN: Amazake Amazake, sweet sake in Japanese, is a traditional sweet drink with very low alcohol content (nearly alcohol free). Although each shop has its own secret recipe, amazake is usually made using simple ingredients such as water, rice and the dried fermented starter koji. It tastes a bit like a diluted smoothie with a thick, creamy texture loved by children and adults alike. Japanese often refer to amazake as “drinkable IV” because it is full of nutrients and can be served both cold or hot.

Yanagiya Taiyaki

Cooked Right in Front of You

Taiyaki is an all-time favorite sweet treat in Japan. You can enjoy freshly baked taiyaki on the spot or take one back to the hotel for a late night snack, since its texture and taste doesn’t change even when it’s cold. The shop is hard to miss as there is always a line spilling out onto the streets.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-11-3, Chuo Hours: 12:30pm - 6pm Closed: Sun & Holidays

Prepare to be embraced by the aroma of taiyaki. 150 yen per taiyaki.

Shinodazushi Sohonten Inarizushi A Box of Deliciousness

The shop specializes in inarizushi, a simple type of sushi in which seasoned rice is stuffed into tofu pouches. Cooked in sweetened soy sauce, the pouches are loaded with flavor and flair. The recipe hasn’t changed since 1877 and continues to attract loyal customers who come for their delicious lunch boxes.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-10-10, Chuo Hours: 9am - 7pm Shinoda Inarizushi 540 yen (excluding tax)

Toushimaya Soba

Favorite Joint for the Locals This soba joint has a retro look and never ceases to impress the eye as well as the palate. Founded in 1887, the dishes are simple, but with a sophisticated twist. Tempura soba is a must try, as it comes with an assortment of freshly fried tempura crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside. Curry nanban, a surprise combination of soba noodles in a curry flavored soup is a popular menu item at Toushimaya.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-4-9, Chuo Hours: 11:30am - 4pm (Lunch), 6pm - 9:30pm (Dinner) Closed: Sun (Sat & Holiday: only open for Lunch)

Shigemori-eishindo Ningyoyaki Delicious Stuffed Doll

Ningyoyaki is easy to find in Tokyo but Shigemori-eishindo is the number one place to have this baked confectionery.

Founded in 1917, the shop prides itself in providing the best quality ningyoyaki with thin skin filled with rich, sweet red bean paste. Peeking through the window to watch the bakers work their magic is always great fun Curry nanban (850 yen) tastes comforting. Tempura soba (1,000 yen)

Karakusaya

Amazake Yokocho Area Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line

Ubukeya

Toei Asakusa Line

Ningyocho Station

Suehiro Shrine Sucre-rie Sucre-rie Cream Puff Ningyocho-Imahan

Uokyu

Chidoriya

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-1-1, Chuo Hours: 9am – 6pm (Closing time varies depending on the date) Ningyoyaki shaped in the form of Seven Gods of Fortune is one the best sellers.

Tsukushi Pudding

Original Recipe from 1877 Located just in front of Suitengu, Tsukushi is famous for its original custard pudding, the recipe for which dates back 100 years. The pudding has a firm consistency and a rich, eggy taste that balances the bitter sweet caramel sauce on the bottom. A perfect place to savor a taste of old Japan.

Gold Ningyocho Pudding

Anmitsu 950 yen Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-1-12, Chuo Hours: 8am – 8pm (Mon-Sat), 8am – 5pm (Sun & Holidays) Tea Room Hours: 10:30am – 6pm (Mon-Sat), 10:30am – 4pm (Sun & Holidays)

Shinodazushi Sohonten Tamahide

Sucre-rie Cream Puff

Toushimaya

Futaba

Crispy on the Outside

Yanagiya

Cream Puff, 240 yen each (Tax included)

Shoyeido Chanoki Shrine

Shigemori-eishindo Tsukushi Suitengu Shrine

to Suitengumae Station

6

Matsushima Shrine

Sucre-rie’s cream puffs are stunning, mouth-watering creations that will have you licking your fingers.

If you have a sweet tooth, be prepared to be mesmerized by the combination of refreshing cream filling and strong sesame aroma. The shop makes cream puffs three times a day to cater to customer needs.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 1-5-5, St. Heim Ningyocho Minamoto, Chuo Hours: 9:30 am – 7pm Closed: Sun

The Statue of Benkei: The statue is erected to commemorate Ningyocho as the birthplace of Kabuki. Benkei is a character in the beloved Kabuki story “Kanjincho.”

Unfortunately Unlucky? Visit the Seven Gods of Fortune Shichifukujin Meguri is a pilgrimage visit to the shrines of the Seven Gods of Fortune to pray for luck. It is said that the custom dates back to the early Edo Period. The seven gods, mythical characters, are: Ebisu (God of Prosperous Business), Daikokuten (God of Wealth and Honor), Bishamonten (God of Bravery and Knowledge), Benzaiten (God of Learning and Arts), Fukurokuju (God of Happiness and Prosperity), Jurojin (God of Health and Longevity) and Hotei (God of Prosperity and Harmony). For about 300 yen, visitors can get a goshuin, uniquely designed seal proving having taken the pilgrimage.

The highlight of the Shichifukujin Meguri in Ningycho is Suitengu, a Shinto shrine known for answering prayers regarding pregnancy, safe childbirth and protection of children. Built in the 19th century, the building underwent massive renovation recently and was completed in April 2016. You’ll have no problem finding the location, as it is always filled with expecting couples and parents with their newborns asking for blessings. If you are looking for something to bring home, Suitengu offers a wide variety of traditional amulets featuring dogs. (Culturally, dogs are often associated with pregnancy in Japan because they are believed to give birth more easily than humans.)

Benzaiten

The Tour of the Seven Gods of Fortune 1) Koami Shrine

(Ebisu)

This shrine became famous when it answered a priest’s prayer for the elimination of a plague in 1466.

Address: Nihonbashi Koamicho 16-23, Chuo

5) Matsushima Shrine

(Daikokuten)

This shrine, thought to have been built in the Kamakura Period (1185~1333), enshrines various gods, including Daikokuten, the God of Five Cereals.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-15-2, Chuo

You can visit all the shrines within one hour!

2) Suginomori Shrine

(Benzaiten and Fukurokuju)

Touch the statue to pray for pregnancy

Built over 1,000 years ago, this shrine is known for answering prayers for victory in battles and for rain during droughts.

Address: Nihonbashi Horidomecho 1-10-2, Chuo

6) Suitengu Shrine (Benzaiten) While the shrine is frequented by mothers, it also enshrines Benzaiten, originally a Hindu goddess and the patron of artists, writers, dancers and geisha.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-15-2, Chuo

3) Kasama Inari Shrine

(Jurojin)

Since the Edo Period, this Tokyo Branch of Ibaraki Prefecture’s Kasama Inari Shrine has been one of the three largest Inari Okami shrines in Japan.

Address: Nihonbashi Hamacho 2-11-6, Chuo

4) Suehiro Shrine

(Bishamonten)

The enshrined god serves as guardian deity of the area which used to be called Yoshiwara, a red-light district during the Edo Period.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-25-20, Chuo

7) Chanoki Shrine (Hotei) The shrine, enshrining Hotei since 1985, is surrounded by camellia trees and thus its name chanoki.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 1-12-11, Chuo WAttention Tokyo

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S D

ophisticated

T

aste

Nurtured and approved by the sophisticated taste of the locals, these establishments are sure to satisfy your palate.

Ningyocho-Imahan Sukiyaki

All in One Pot

Established in 1895, this is a traditional style Japanese restaurant specializing in sukiyaki, a one-pot dish that contains top-grade beef and fresh vegetables.

Sukiyaki is most popular during the winter, but Ningyocho-Imahan has no problem attracting meat lovers all year round.

Be sure to make a reservation before you arrive.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-9-12, Chuo Hours: 11am – 10pm (Closed 3pm - 5pm on Weekdays) Closed: New Year’s Day

D Drop in during lunch for oyakodon and order shamonabe for dinner (reservation required).

Tamahide Shamonabe & Oyakodon Prepared by the Chicken Expert

Tamahide has been in business since 1760, serving shamonabe, a type of Sukiyaki dish featuring premium chicken. It was 125 years ago when the wife of the fifth generation owner invented one of today’s most popular Japanese foods—oyakodon, by adding egg to the shamonabe broth and putting it on top of steamy hot rice. The eatery is quite spacious with over 100 seats, but it is always packed with locals and tourists from abroad looking for authentic taste.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 1-17-10, Chuo Hours: 11:30am – 1:30 pm (Oyakodon Lunch), 11:45am – 2:30pm (Course Lunch), 5:30pm – 10pm (Dinner)

D

Uokyu Kasuzuke

Brings out the Best Flavor

Uokyu is a popular Japanese restaurant that serves kasuzuke cuisine. Kasuzuke is a traditional way of pickling fish and vegetables in sake lees. The lunch meal, ranging from 1,000 yen to 1,500 yen, is a great value, considering that it includes a slice of fish, rice, miso soup and pickled vegetables.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 1-1-20, Chuo Hours: 11am – 2pm (Lunch last order 1:30), 5pm – 10pm (Course Dinner last order 8:30, Dinner last order 9:30) Closed: Sat, Sun & Holidays

Nihonbashi Highball

A

Royal Scots Cocktail Elegance at its Best

Located at the basement of Royal Park Hotel, Royal Scots is a bar modeled after an old English manor house. Relax in a comfortable chair at the bar and immerse yourself in the enchanting atmosphere as the bartender prepares your cocktail with the utmost care.

Nihonbashi Highball is a signature cocktail co-developed by the hotel and a Japanese beverage company. The cocktail, designed to represent the elegance of Nihonbashi, features mintlike shiso that enhances the color and adds zesty character.

Address: Royal Park Hotel B1, Nihonbashi Kakigaracho 2-1-1, Chuo Hours: 5pm – 12am (Last order 11:30)

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As Traditional As It Gets: Arts and Crafts These one-of-a-kind products embody Japanese artisans’ skillful craftsmanship and attention to detail

Shoyeido Incense

Premium Japanese Fragrance Established more than 300 years ago, Shoyeido is known as the oldest Japanese incense maker, offering a wide variety of unique, hand-blended incense products that range from incense sticks to sachets and burners. Aromatic nirvana is as easy as an incense away!

Shoyeido’s incense is formulated with natural ingredients. Take your time and find the ones you love.

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-12-2, Chuo Hours: 9am – 6pm Closed: Sun & Holidays

Fragrant Sachets (large) 972 yen each

Ubukeya Knives

Chidoriya Tenugui

Ubukeya, which has been in operation since the Edo period, sells an array of sharp tools, such as knives, scissors, tweezers and nail clippers. The tools are made by professionals with more than 20 years of experience and are said to be suitable for multiple tasks, even the most detailed work.

Literally meaning wiping hands in Japanese, tenugui is a multipurpose cloth that can be used as handkerchief, towel and even for gift wrapping. Though simple in form, tenugui comes in different textures, designs and colors from which you can appreciate the remarkable creativity of the designers.

Sharp Craftsmanship

A Cloth with Endless Versatility

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 1-7-6, HS Build. F1, Chuo Hours: 11am – 8pm (Mon Fri), 11am – 7pm (Sat, Sun & Holidays)

Address: Nihonbashi Ningyocho 3-9-2,Chuo Hours: 9am -6pm (5pm on Sat) Closed: Sun & Holidays

Karakusaya Furoshiki

Kamaya-mogusa Honpo Mugwort

Karakusaya has the widest lineup of furoshiki, traditional Japanese wrapping cloth that is eco-friendly and can be used for gift wrapping, bundling or as a bag. Since modern furoshiki comes in different sizes, colors and designs, you will definitely find something that suits your personal tastes.

Mugwort is a small, spongy herb whose medicinal properties are widely used in Japanese acupuncture and moxibustion.

The shop has been providing mugwort products to Tokyoites for 350 years, emphasizing their natural qualities and historic allure.

Address: Nihonbashi Tomizawacho 7-2, Morimoto Building 1F, Chuo Hours: 11am – 6pm Closed: Tue, Wed, Holidays, Summer and New Year Holidays

Address: Nihonbashi Koamicho 6-1, Chuo Hours: 9am - 5pm Closed: Sat, Sun & Holidays

Wrapped with Creativity

Natural Home Remedy

Kamaya Mini (mild mogwort) 1,944 yen

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T-CAT Connects Airports to Central Quick, Comfortable, Convenient Tokyo City Air Terminal (T-CAT) has a direct connection to Suitengumae Station on Tokyo Metro line, which takes you to all the interesting sites, including Asakusa, Shibuya and Shinjuku. The terminal operates 119 bus services a day connecting Narita Airport and Central Tokyo and 57 services a day linking Haneda Airport with Central Tokyo.

T-CAT Connects Airport to Tokyo @ Suitengu & Ningyocho Ikebukuro

Asakusa

Shinjuku

Tokyo

Ueno

1min.

15min.

Otemachi

8min.

11min.

10min.

3min.

Shibuya

Mitsukoshimae

8min.

2min.

19min.

Suitengumae Hanzomon Line

820 yen

Hanzomon Line

Marunouchi Line

S

◆

The modern, spacious departure terminal has a roof, protecting travelers from rain and sun

◆

Experienced, friendly staff at the ticket counter answer your questions

◆

Currency exchange services available on the third floor of the main building

◆

A variety of shops, convenience stores and restaurants for last minute shopping

◆

Multilingual ticket machines (available in English, Chinese and Korean) that accept payment by cash and credit card

Harajuku

6min.

Kudanshita

4min.

25 Min. to/from Haneda

Oshiage

T-CAT Caters to All Your Travel Needs

Toei Shinjuku Line

1,900 yen Ginza Line

55 Min. to/from Narita

JR Line

The Tourist Information Center ◆

Stock up all necessary travel information

◆

Short-term baggage storage is available here as well

Enjoyable Experience with Airport Limousine Bus Narita Airport Limousine Bus Ticket Counter

Onboard facilities Outlets for smart devices are available at every seat, so travelers have no problem accessing the internet on the bus. Also, clean restrooms are readily available.

Fast & Free Wifi Access: Download the Travel Japan Wifi app to your smart phone and gain access to all the hotspots throughout Japan.

Located in the international arrivals lobby, the ticket counter is easy to spot. In addition, there is no need to move your luggage up/down steps or escalators as the terminal is on the same floor as the arrivals lobby.

Stretch and Relax Buses are equipped with comfortable reclining seats.

Tourists getting off long flights will appreciate the beautiful changes of scenery through the windows on the way to their final destinations.

Rice fields

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Tokyo @ Suitengu & Ningyocho Hotel Information

4Hotels selling T-CAT Special 1,900 ticket.

Other tickets are available at T-CAT ticketing counter.

1 Royal Park Hotel 2 Sotetsu Fresa Inn Nihombashi-Ningyocho 3 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Nihombashi Hakozaki 4 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Hatchobori 5 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Kayabacho 6 Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo-Nihombashi Mitsukoshimae 7 Hotel Hokke Inn Nihonbashi 8 City Pension Zem 9 Selmeas inn Nihonbashi 10 Hotel Livemax Nihombashi-Hakozaki 11 Pearl Hotel Kayabacho 12 Oak Hostel Cabin 13 Kurumi Lease Mansion 14 Tokyo Hotel Horidome Villa 15 Hotel Sardonyx Tokyo 16 Keio Presso Inn Kayabacho 17 Center Hotel Tokyo 18 Sotetsu Fresa Inn Nihombashi-Kayabacho 19 Smile Hotel Tokyo Nihombashi 20 Toyoko Inn Tokyo Nihombashi Ningyocho 21 Sumisho Hotel 22 Nishitetsu Inn Nihombachi 23 Hotel Nihonbashi Saibo 24 Toyoko Inn Tokyo Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Mae A4 25 Apa Hotel Ningyocho-Ekikita

2 Hamacho Stn.

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Amazake Yokocho Area

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Meiji-Za

Hamacho Park

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3: Kasama Inari Shrine (Jurojin)

o ch ko Yo

4: Suehiro Shrine (Bishamonten) 5: Matsushima Shrine (Daikokuten) 6: Suitengu Shrine (Benzaiten)

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7: Chanoki Shrine (Hotei)

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Tokyo Metro Subway Line Station

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Toei Subway Line Station

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Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line Tokyo Metro Tozai Line Toei Asakusa Line Toei Shinjuku Line

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1: Koami Shrine (Fukurokuju & Benzaiten) 2: Suginomori Shrine (Ebisu)

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Shichifukujin Shrines

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Foreign Visitors Only Special Fare Discount T-CAT Night Special 1000

Single trip to Narita Airport after 19:00 costs only 1,000 yen (normal fare is 2,800 yen). The fare applies to both adults and children.

T-CAT Special

Limousine & Subway Pass

Foreign tourists traveling to Narita Airport is entitled to 1,900 yen adult single fare (normal fare is 2,800 yen). To enjoy the discount, show your passport. The ticket can only be purchased on the day of travel.

Unlimited rides on all Tokyo Metro lines and Toei Subway lines.

Choose from 24 hrs, 48 hrs or 72 hrs subway passes with tickets to/from Haneda or Narita Airport.

Encompassing a total of 13 lines, this network covers all the major sightseeing spots in Tokyo.

Exclusive Gift for WAttention Readers!

Show a copy of WAttention Tokyo Vol.21 when purchasing your ticket at the ticket counter on the third floor to receive a special gift (Airport Limousine Bus Zip Bag). Limited to the first 100 customers (Offer lasts until Oct.15,2016).

Nin a The Enigmatic Shadow Warriors of Japan

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忍

Swift as the wind, silent as a shadow, ninjas have captured the imagination of people around the world. Their true accounts have been obscured by centuries of secrecy, subterfuge and pop culture.

But ninjas are not mere flights of fancy, these men and women truly did exist. Join WAttention as we get acquainted with ninja and the art of ninjutsu.

The exact beginning of ninjas in Japan is unclear. Records of espionage in Japan date back to the 6th, but it wasn’t until the 15th century Sengoku period that the tradition of trained ninjas, or more commonly called shinobi in Japan, flourished.

The ninjas of the Sengoku period were specialists in clandestine warfare and were either retainers or hired mercenaries. Their skills and traditions were perfected and passed down in the family. This art would be known as ninjutsu and it covers a large scope, including espionage, military science, medicine, infiltration, explosives, thievery, and many other skill sets required to survive and achieve one’s aims.

Because of their covert way of fighting, they were scorned by the samurai who deemed them cowards and dishonorable.

But this doesn’t mean that ninjas have no moral code.

The most important thing for a ninja is “seishin”, or a correct and upright heart. Ninjas have to practice benevolence, righteousness, loyalty and fidelity, or they would be no different from common thieves. Even at the risk of being called a coward, they would not follow an unreasonable order or an unprincipled leader. They do not seek glory in battle, only peace and the fulfillment of their purpose. They find honor in fighting for their beliefs, not on the front lines, but sometimes way beyond.

© aichi-ninja

Hattori Hanzo and the Ninjas: A ninja troupe recruited to promote tourism in Aichi Prefecture which also known as the “Home of Samurai”. Good thing these ninjas are not so elusive! Head over to Nagoya Castle for a chance to meet Hattori Hanzo, Sukenoshin, Sanpei, Suiren, Ibuki, Tsukikage and Sora as they perform regularly there.

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Ninja facts you may not know After learning the history and true meaning of ninja and ninjutsu, level up your ninja knowledge by reading about these interesting facts.

Ninja Weapons Ninja weapons were mainly developed from farming tools, making them inconspicuous and easy to conceal. Their weapons are also mostly more for diversion and not meant for a head-on attack.

Makibishi (Caltrop) Used for escaping, makibishi was scattered on the ground to injure and slow down pursuers.

Kusarigama Another weapon that started out as a farming tool, the kusarigama consists of a sickle connected by a chain to an iron weight. It notoriously needs a high level of control and technique to wield, that even the samurai in the Edo period were required to learn how to use one.

Shuriken (Throwing stars) The most famous ninja weapon, the shuriken is light and compact. It was not mainly used as a killing weapon, but as a distraction.

Interview with

Kunai (Dagger) Originally a farming and masonry tool, the sharpened and reshaped kunai is used as a weapon and can be used to scale a wall.

a Western Born Ninja

Chris O’Neill a.k.a. Sora, a member of Hattori Hanzo and the Ninjas Chris got his dream job, a ninja, after competing with more than 200 applicants from all over the world. Now working as a member of Hattori Hanzo and the Ninjas appointed by Aichi prefectural government, he tells WAttention how it is like being a real ninja. © aichi-ninja

Profile of Chris O’Neill Chris O’Neill was born in the west, but has moved around the world all his life. He has lived in the USA, France, England, Hong Kong and Japan. Before joining the Hattori Hanzo Ninja team and becoming a ninja officially, he was exploring South America. He feels he is a martial artist to the core of being. He also enjoys studying philosophy, playing games and making friends.

More about Sora and Hattori Hanzo Ninja team, please check their official website; http://ninja-japan.com/en/

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Q1.

What is the trigger of having interest in ninja?

When I was around 3 years old, I watched cartoons about ninja. They inspired me to start training in the Martial Arts. I loved those shows! Every weekend I would wait in anticipation for my favorite show to come on! It lit the fire of my passion for Japan.

Around 7 or 8, I started getting really serious about the Martial Arts. Instead of just watching cartoons and anime, I started reading about the historical aspects of samurai and ninja. I found the reality of ninja even more fascinating than the fictional ninja I watched on TV and in the movies.

Ninja constantly aim to attain 正心 . The literal meaning of these two kanji is ‘right’ and ‘mind’. To have a right mind or right way of thinking was very important to ninja of the past, and it is very important to me today. Whenever I feel conflicted about something, I try to focus on doing what is right, and living the best way of life that I can. This is the most important thing for me as a ninja.

Kuji-in: The 9 Hand Seals

Kyoto Prefecture

Kuji-in is a mantra accompanied by hand signs that originated from esoteric Buddhist beliefs. Often over-simplified in pop culture as being a form of magic, ninjas use these hand-signs to meditate and fortify themselves before a mission or training.

It is believed to build confidence and strength as well as focus the mind and enhance the senses to danger.

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Rin - Strength

Iga Nara Prefecture

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Pyō - Channel energy

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Kai - Intuition

Sha - Healing

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Jin - Reading and con-

of space and time

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Zai - Understanding of creation

The Iga clan and the Koka clan inhabited the same mountain range, in two remote valleys separated by a mountain. In the Sengoku period, the two clans rose to prominence for producing highly skilled ninjas specifically trained in the shinobi tradition to be hired as mercenaries by the competing lords.

The 3 Great Books of Ninjutsu Written by ninja masters with an inside view of ninjitsu, these books are considered as the 3 major writings among existing traditional ninjutsu manuals.

Shinobi Hiden (literally, “The Shinobi Secret Traditions”) was written by Hattori Hanzo and is considered one of the oldest ninjutsu manual in existence. It is a documentation of techniques attributed to the Hattori family and is a traditional text of both Iga and Koka.

cealment of thoughts

烈 在 前

Retsu - Understanding

Mie Prefecture

The 2 Major Ninja Clans

Bansenshukai (literally, “The Merging Ocean of Ten Thousand Rivers”), written by Fujibayashi Yasutake in 1676, is a universal collection of principles and ninja skills from Iga and Koka. This comprehensive work made up of 10-12 books was kept from the public for centuries because of the dangerous knowledge it contains, but is now used as the prime manuscript for ninjutsu research.

Tō - Harmony

者 皆 陣

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Shiga Prefecture

Koka

臨 兵 闘

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Lake Biwa

Shoninki (literally, “The True Ninja Account”) was written in 1681 by Natori Masatake who was not only a master ninja, but also a samurai in the service of the house of Kishu Tokugawa. Unveiling secrets long lost, this book sheds light on the required mentality, skills and techniques of the ninjas of old.

Zen - Enlightenment

Q2.

Please tell us what Hattori Hanzo and the Ninjas are doing on your ninja show.

One of the best parts of this job is how diverse it is! We are always doing something unique and exciting! Of course, we have Ninjas welcoming guests to Nagoya Castle everyday, and on the weekends we visit the airport to welcome anyone flying at Chubu Centrair International Airport.

We also just started a brand new Ninja school at Nagoya Castle on the weekends. So, people can come learn about Ninja, both the historically accurate ninja as well as the present day interpretations of ninja. They can learn how to throw Ninja stars, the difference between samurai swords and ninja swords, try on Ninja clothes, and even learn some of the deepest secrets ninja have silently held for many years.

What do you think of the reason that many people all over the world are fascinated with ninja?

Q3.

Ninja are like the superheroes of Japan! They have many amazing abilities and even more secrets! I think people are impressed with the things Ninja can do. They are elite warriors who train harder than anyone else in their craft. They have to! Or they may get caught, tortured, and even killed. They train because their lives depend on it.

When I was a little kid, I loved ninja because what I saw on TV was powerful strength mixed with compassion and kindness. I loved that. It is not common for strength to be associated with kindness, but I believe it takes great strength to truly be kind. Later in life, when I started studying the historically accurate records of Ninja, I was once again impressed by the strength of their mind. Beyond being physically impressive, the mental and spiritual aspect of ninja really captured my heart.

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The Ninja Spots of Tokyo Just like the ninjas of old that hide in plain view, these spots dedicated to ninjas and their mysterious art thrive out in the urban jungles of Tokyo. Unleash your inner ninja as you train, dine, and shop your way through the ninja spots of Tokyo and beyond!

Time slip dining

Ninja Akasaka A visit to this ninja-themed restaurant will give you an immersive experience of dining in a ninja village. Make your way stealthily through a labyrinth of wooden corridors as you are led by waiters in ninja costume. Their food is also well worth the trip, being a deliciously modern take on Japanese cuisine.

Address: Nagatacho 2-14-3, TOKYU PLAZA AKASAKA 1F, Chiyoda Hours: 5pm - 12 midnight (Last admission 10:30pm) (Mon - Sat), 5pm - 11pm (Last admission 9:45pm)(Sun and Holiday) Reservation: http://www.ninjaakasaka.com/yoyaku/yoyaku.html

Shuriken & secrets

Ninja Trick House in Tokyo Located conveniently near Shinjuku Station, this interactive entertainment facility gives you the chance to wield some shuriken and ninja swords. Prove your worth as a ninja and find all the trap doors, hidden panels and other secrets of the trick house.

Address: Kabuki-cho 2-28-13, Daiichi Wako Buliding 4F, Shinjuku Hours: 10am - 9pm (Last admission 8:30pm) Admission: 1,000 yen (tax included) Free of charge for children under 3 years old URL: http://ninja-trick-house.com/

Ninja Training 101

Musashi Ninja Clan - Jidai Academy Dojo Let’s take a class to Get keyed in to the basics of ninja techniques with the hands-on ninja experience, including how to walk stealthily and how to execute the kujikiri hand movements. Even children from 5 and above with a participating parent are welcome to join. Start them out young so they’ll be well on their way to becoming a ninja master!

Address: Tabata 6-3-5, Kita Hours: Start from 10am, 1:15pm or 4pm (Weekday) 2:30pm (Sat) anytime from 10am - 8pm (Sun) URL: https://musashi.ninja/program-01/

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Tokyo’s Tasteful Ninja Treasures

Attack on the fridge

After all that hard ninja training, you can reward yourself with these tastefully designed ninja items. Bring some home to your friends and spread the coolness of ninja to the world.

One cool ninja fan Display your ninja fandom proudly for the world to see with this chic ninja folding fan and tenugui hand towel.

Available at Itoya, Tokyu Hands or online shops.

Perfect for leaving ominous looking shopping lists, use these shuriken magnets to instill fear inside would-be fridge thieves. For the same price, you get to wield this toy samurai sword in a duel to decide who gets the last piece of sushi.

Available at Can★Do shops.

Hamamonyo Folding Fan 2,376 yen

Shuriken Pori-Magnet 108 yen Toy Samurai Sword 108 yen

tenugui 864 yen

Hidden Motif Get this tenugui (thin cotton hand towel) that can be folded into a small picture book and a children’s jinbei (2-piece set with a wrap top and matching pants) from Kamawanu for your kid to be the coolest ninja on Children’s Jinbei - Ninja 5,184 yen (90cm) / 5,400 yen (100cm) the block.

Ninjutsu Handbook Tenugui 1,080 yen Harajuku KAMAWANU Address: Jingu-mae 1-10-10, Ota Memorial Museum of Art B1, Shibuya Hours: 10:30am - 7pm URL: http://www.kamawanu.co.jp/english/index.html

One Day Excursion from Tokyo

t view Catch a grea of Mt. Fuji!

A ninja village near Mt. Fuji

Oshino Shinobi no Sato For a short excursion outside Tokyo, make sure to visit this ninja-themed village surrounded by nature. Take a stroll in their beautiful Japanese garden then have a look through their ninja trick house filled with surprises. Try your hand at some serious shuriken throwing to build up appetite then indulge in some scrumptious Japanese dishes.

Shinobi No Kuro Curry (Ninja Black Curry) 1,350 yen

Join our Ninja clan.

Address: Shibokusa 2845, Oshino-mura, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi Prefecture Hours: 9am - 5pm (Last admittance 4:30pm) Access: 18-min bus ride from Mt. Fuji station. Take the Fujikyu bus heading towards Gotemba station and get off at Oshino Shinobi no Sato.

URL: http://www.oshinoninja.com/ (Japanese)

*All Prices are inclusive of tax WAttention Tokyo

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Togakushi:

Home of Ninja and Mystery

With its ninja legend, natural landscapes, and close proximity to Tokyo, this is a trip worth making.

Hidden on a highland surrounded by mountain ranges, the Togakushi area of Nagano is the legendary home of Togakure Ninja. Yes, those mysterious masters of espionage and stealth are said to have honed their ninja skills in the highlands of Togakushi since more than 800 years ago. Daisuke Nishina, who served the Genji clan, founded the school of Togakure-ryu in the 12th century during the ongoing war between the Genji and Heishi (Taira) clans . This fighting style would later become the origin of ninjutsu’s diverse fighting styles. Generation after generation, a ninja’s role in assassinating and spying may have been replaced by modern weaponry and the Internet. Nevertheless, the sense of mystery remains in Togakushi, due to its ninja legends, historical shrines, and the rows upon rows of old cedar trees that seems to lead you into another world.

Togakushi Shrine

A place of peace and spirituality Togakushi Shrine consists of five shrines located at the base of Mt. Togakushi.

According to Japanese mythology, the goddess of the sun, Amaterasu, ridden by grief, hid herself in a cave, plunging the world into darkness. The other deities strived to lure her out, finally succeeding to fling away the stone door where it landed to form Mt. Togakushi (literally,“the door of hiding”), thus returning the sun to our world. Whether or not the story is true, deities that appeared in the story are enshrined here and the mythology has added a bit of charm to Togakushi. Seeking for peace and spirituality, we first visited Chusha (the middle shrine) to see the triplet cedar tree and the ceiling painting of dragon. The former is the gift of Mother Nature, and the latter a masterpiece of human creativity. From Chusha to the entrance of Okusha (the upper shrine) is about 5 minutes by car or 20 minutes on foot. Okusha is a further 2 kilometers uphill from the entrance. Passing the thatched-roof Zuijinmon Gate, we walked through countless cedar trees and a series of stone stairs to arrive at Okusha. The 30-minute walk was inspiring in itself, and we invite you to experience it yourself.

Zuijinmon Gate

Chusha : the ceiling painting of dragon

Togakushi Shrine http://togakushi-jinja.jp/

Path to Okusha (upper shrine) lined by Cedar trees

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Kuzuryusha next to okusha

Chusha : the triplet cedar tree

The folklore museum

The display of ninja weaponry and materials

Togakushi Ninja Museum

Experience and learn about Togakushi ninja

The Ninja Karakuri Yashiki

Start your exploration of Togakushi ninja by visiting this three-in-one museum. First, the folklore museum displays more than 2,000 items used in everyday life of rural Japan. The collection includes farm and forestry tools, as well as household items that will give you a flavor of how local people lived and worked in the old says.

Second, the ninja museum contains an impressive display of ninja weaponry and materials. Third, the Ninja Karakuri Yashiki is a challenging trick maze for you to sneak through trapdoors and hidden staircases in a series of secret-filled rooms.

Just a heads up for ninja wannabes, the maze is for real and you may need some ninja talent to get out of it!

Togakushi Ninja Museum http://www.togakushi-ninja.com/

Posing with the owner of Togakushi soba

Ninja soba The star-shaped tempura looks like a ninja’s shuriken; moreover, the shredded radishes served over soba are like the mystic smoke through which a ninja escapes from enemies.

Togakushi Okushamae Eatery Naosuke The soba shop is known for its Kamozaru-soba, cold buckwheat noodles with dipping duck soup.

For those who like it hot, spicy Kamozaru-soba is also available. Togakushi Soba’s menu continues to evolve with time and seasons.

Spicy Kamozaru-soba

A ninja-themed amusement park for both kids and adults If you are traveling with kids who have lots of energy to spend, check out this ninja theme park offering various hands-on attractions and ninja shows. Here you can dress up as a ninja and work your way through various obstacles as if you are a real ninja sneaking into enemy territory by climbing over a wall or crossing a pond. If that sounds too exciting for you, there are also exhibitions on how ninjas are portrayed in pop culture such as anime and video games.

Kids can play at the training field

Field of soba flower with a great view of Togakushi Mountain

Togakushi Soba Ninja soba served by modern ninja

While you may already know that soba is a kind of buckwheat noodles eaten chilled with a dipping sauce, Togakushi soba has its own history and characteristics that make it a must-try for everyone. It was no exception for us as we tried Togakushi soba at Yamaguchiya and learned the story behind it from Mr. Yamaguchi, the restaurant’s owner who is practicing to become a modern ninja himself. He told us that Togakushi soba originated as a portable food for monks practicing asceticism in the mountains of Togakushi. Since soba is easy to prepare and contains essential nutrients, it makes an ideal food for ninja as well!

Kids’ Ninja Village

Kids’ Ninja Village http://www.ninjamura.com/

The Togakushi Ninja Museum

Yamaguchiya http://www.togakushisoba.com/original10.html Togakushi Okushamae Eatery Naosuke http://www.tgk.janis.or.jp/~naosuke/index.html(Japanese)

Access

Togakushi

Take Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano (about one and a half hours), and then take a bus for Togakushi (about an hour).

Nagano Hokuriku Shinkansen

Accommodation

Tokyo

In front of Togakushi Shrine are dozens of Shukubo, special accommodations offered by temples and shrines. Often run by officials at the shrine, Shukubo is a great opportunity to experience simple lifestyles, homemade meals and unique history.

Nagano City Tourist Information Center (Inside JR Nagano station) TEL: +81 (0)26-226-5626(English available) Nagano Convention and Visitors Bureau http://www.nagano-cvb.or.jp/

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Words of Japan

vol.07

Mountain Trail – Autumn Mountain Trail

山道 〜 紅葉の山道〜〜

”Yamamichi, koyo no yamamichi - Mountain road, mountain road covered with the colors of autumn” Viewing fall foliage has been a popular leisure activity in Japan for millennia. At the beginning of October, leaves start to turn color first in Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan. Next, the process continues down the mountains of the northeastern part of the country and eventually to the west and south, finishing in Kyushu, Japan’s southernmost island. While the springtime cherry blossom front moves from south to north over about three weeks, autumn foliage moves from north to south and takes roughly two months to complete its cycle.

According to the ancient Japanese calendar, fall begins at the end of August. This year, the first day of autumn is officially August 7th, meaning that a fall atmosphere should already be in the air. While some might wonder if autumn is really here since the weather is still steaming, given that the calendar has been in existence for thousands of years and is backed by repeated astronomical observations, one might conclude that changes of season present themselves when least expected.

In Japan, the changing of seasons is reflected in the sounds of insects. For example, when the sound of cicadas singing with all their might could awake even the soundest of sleepers, people Profile of Koran Onishi

believe that summer has arrived. When that sound turns into a buzzing drone and is taken over by crickets chirping, people consider summer to be over.

I started working on this calligraphy in the end of summer. The light ink expresses the delicate texture of the autumn soil and the flaming color of the mountains. The primary calligraphy brush, made of soft goat hair, paints an image of autumn mountains while the finer brushes give life to small Japanese characters echoing fallen leaves and bare stems.

When red leaves wither, they fall and give color to the ground. A walk in the mountains best reveals the genuine beauty of foliage.

Feeling the crispy crunch of leaves beneath my feet and marveling at the panoramic carpet of autumn loveliness decorating the path: This is how I perceived the autumn mountain trail through the black-and-white world of calligraphy.

Within spring pinks, summer greens, autumn reds and winter silvers lies the beauty of the changing seasons in the everspellbinding mountains of Japan.

A contemporary Japanese calligrapher who has received numerous accolades, including Excellent Work Awards at the 2015 and 2016 Mainichi Shodo Competition.

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The Perfect Harmony of Art, Architecture and Nature The world is full of visual clutter and sometimes we get overwhelmed by information overload.

It is only in an ideal environment one can appreciate the true color of what you are looking at.

Undeniable Artistic Insight An array of paintings by Rothko. An immense room adorned with a Frank Stella collection. These are just a few of the world-famous works of art at the Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art. Established as a manufacturer of printing ink in 1908, DIC has cultivated numerous materials and finished products that bring “color” and “comfort” to people’s lives.

The selected works here are a true reflection of DIC’s sophisticated taste.

In the Best Possible Light The artworks are displayed with meticulous care, as each exhibition space is designed with a particular piece in mind. Room sizes, ceiling heights, wall colors, lighting and even the floor materials change to complement the art in the most compelling way.

DIC knows that how people perceive art is at least as important as the art itself.

Address: Sakado 631, Sakura, Chiba From Tokyo Station: 67 minutes expressway bus ride or 60 minutes train ride (JR Sobu Line) to JR Sakura Station and 20 minutes (free shuttle bus) to the museum.

From Narita Airport: 30 minutes train ride (Keisei Line Limited Express) to Keisei Sakura Station and 30 minutes (free shuttle bus) to the museum.

Hours: 9:30am – 5pm (Last entry 4:30pm) Closed: Mon (except for national holidays, then closed the following nonholiday), New Year’s holiday, during exhibit changes Admission: 1,000 yen (Adults), 800 yen (College students and people over 65 with ID), 600 yen (Elementary, middle and high school students) Admission varies depending on the exhibition.

Spectacular Surroundings Within its sprawling 10 hectares, there is a crescent-shaped pond that is home to white swans and a nature trail that winds through Chiba Prefecture’s indigenous green forest. The plants and flowers, even the outdoor furniture have been carefully chosen so that you can appreciate nature’s expansive palette throughout the year. Immerse yourself in the blissful environment.

Present a copy of WAttention Tokyo Vol. 21 at the ticket booth to receive a discounted ticket rate.

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Picturesque Tohoku Japan’s Traditional Landscape at Its Best Japan’s traditional landscape is all about the perfect balance between man and nature. When visiting Tohoku, travelers are offered stretching views of satoyama farmlands and countless examples of traditional architecture embodying local wisdom, artistic beauty and impressive vitality.

Revisiting Traditional Architectural Wisdom: Thatching

Tono Furusato Village photo provided by Iwate Tourist Association

Thatching is the traditional Japanese craft of building a roof with dry vegetation like straw to achieve warmth and sustainability while also saving energy . In Tohoku, there remain many thatched roof houses that resemble a poetic retreat from the modern day. With stunning mountains as backdrops and beautiful creeks gently flowing, this is the ultimate destination for meditation and relaxation.

Tono Furusato Village Often used as a shooting location for movies, the nostalgic looking village also doubles as a tourist attraction where visitors can experience traditional Japanese craftwork like bamboo art and pottery making. The outgoing and friendly staff is dedicated to helping everyone get the most out of their visit.

Cultural Experience Activities at Tono Furusato Village Hours: 9am-5pm (Mar. to Oct.), 9am-4pm (Nov. to Feb) Access: 25 minutes from JR Tono Station by bus Admission: 540 yen (Adults), 320 yen (Children)

You can sample home-made sake known as Doburoku at a traditional winter festival, Dobekko Festival.

Denshoen Park Traditional farming, authentic culture and local wisdom are carefully preserved at these charming thatched roof houses.

Here, you can listen to Japanese folklore, try your hand at making Japanese crafts and savor local specialties.

Hours: 9am-5pm (Last entry at 4:30pm) Access: 25 minutes from JR Tono Station by bus Admission: 320 yen (Adults), 220 yen (Children)

Oshira-sama: A household deity unique to the Tohoku region. Made with 30 cm long mulberry sticks, Oshira-sama statues usually come in pairs, with the male figure representing a horse and the female a human.

Instructors at Furusato Village are known as “Maburitto members,” or “protectors” in the Iwate dialect. © Tono Tourism Association Tono Furusato Village

Unrivaled Beauty: Apple Fields When Japanese think of Aomori, sweet, juicy apples spring immediately to mind. Aomori has such a long history of growing apples that apple fields have become an integral part of its local landscape.

Hirosaki Apple Park is home to over 1,500 apple trees of 80 varieties and visitors are welcomed to assist with all stages of apple production, including apple picking. The park staff also arrange a series of activities throughout the year to show off their deeply rooted "apple pride."

Apple Picking Experience at Hirosaki Apple Park Hours: 9am-4:20pm (Aug. to mid-Nov.) Access: 20 minutes from JR Hirosaki Station by bus, 7 minutes walk from bus stop to park Admission: Free (The apples you pick will be charged at 320 yen per kilo)

Step Back in Time: Kakunodate’s Samurai Residences, Akita Prefecture Take a relaxing stroll around Kakunodate to immerse yourself in history. While many traditional Japanese buildings have been lost due to fire, weather and deterioration from age, the houses along Samurai Street have stood undamaged for over 300 years.

Known as the “Little Kyoto of Tohoku,” the town maintains the refined, elegant atmosphere of old Japan. © Kakunodate Tourist Association

Hiburi-Kamakura is a one-of-a-kind traditional event held in February. People swing a bale of burning straw to wish for safety in the coming year.

Visit the Glorious Past: Merchant Houses in Sakata, Yamagata Prefecture Sakata, with its ideal geographic location, flourished as a trade center and major port from which goods were shipped from Tohoku to Kyoto and Tokyo in the Edo Period (1603-1867). Traces of the port’s glorious past are still clear in the present: in Sankyo Soko, a storehouse for rice built in 1893; a villa of the wealthy Honma family; and Soumaro, one of the most prominent Japanese restaurants in Sakata during the Edo Period. Beside its well preserved architecture, you can also enjoy a dance performance by Maiko (Geisha apprentices).

See Nostalgic Edo: Ouchi-juku Post Station in Shimogo, Fukushima Prefecture Ouchi-juku prospered in the Edo Period as an important post station connecting Aizu (parts of Fukushima and Niigata P r e f e c t u r e s ) a n d N i k k o i n To c h i g i Prefecture. Traditionally, the streets were lined with inns and houses providing lodging and meals to transient guests.

The town was designated as a Group of Traditional Buildings by the government in the 1980s and has since remained a popular attraction.

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Robot Restaurant:

We saw it on TV and Mic hael Sr. rea lly wa nted to come

- Andr ew, Dimitra, Mich ael Jr., Steve, Vane ssa & Mich ael Sr., USA

Mind-Blowing Show in the Underbelly of Shinjuku Through word-of-mouth, online reviews, even TV shows, the Robot Restaurant has been garnering more and more attention globally.

Reasons: splashingly colorful neon, fighter girls in kimono, and high-tech robots in unimaginable scenarios. This place is truly a concentrated dose of Japan’s famed quirky subculture.

A Different Type of Matsuri Go down to the show area to be blown away by pure spectacle! The show starts with a bang as taiko drummers on robotic floats slam away to the beat. Dancers in ninja and samurai costumes twirl and clash swords. Dancers with rainbow-colored fans balance on top of a robotic float made to look like a mikoshi, a portable shrine usually touted during matsuri, or festivals, in Japan. And, just like during a proper matsuri, the energy is infectious; you will find your heart racing, pounding almost as loudly as the taiko drumming!

Over-the-top Attention to Detail

Battle of the Bots

Even before you step inside, the Robot Restaurant screams for the attention of all passersby: The building’s facade is covered with kaleidoscopic neon lights and the words “robotto resutoran” being sung pierces through the hustle and bustle of Kabukicho, Shinjuku. When you feel ready, step out of humdrum daily reality and into their psychedelic Robot Lounge. Here you can enjoy drinks and snacks while relaxing to music played by robot musicians waiting for the main show. You will be amazed that even the toilet was not spared from the madness - the walls, floors, and the urinal is glitzed up with glossy gold.

What happens next can only be described as an elaborately bizarre robot showdown where fighter girls ride out to battle on giant robot animals against laser-shooting robot invaders. A panda atop a cow plowing through friend and foe, a mermaid swimming with a robot shark, and a giant mecha-dinosaur devouring an evil queen are just a tiny fraction of what you will see by the show’s end!

Awesome in Unexpected Ways The razzle-dazzle interior, dynamism of the performers and, of course, absurd mashup of robots, may sound crazy at first. However, despite the obvious nuttiness of it, the Robot Restaurant is a well-oiled machine that runs its shows fluidly from start to finish, with well-timed breaks and almost no empty time. The dancing and outfits are not overtly bawdy, and we even spotted some families with children and young teens in the audience. More of a show than a standard restaurant, you can still grab a bento* to eat during the show for an extra charge. Between all that and the ninjas on robots, etc., there is very little reason not to go if you want to experience modern Japan in a unique and memorable way.

The Robot Restaurant awaits in Kabukicho, Shinjuku! *Sushi Bento (1,000 yen), Yakiniku Grilled Short Rib Bento (1,500 yen), Shigure-ni Simmered Beef Bento (1,000 yen)

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Robot Restaurant Address: Kabukicho 1-7-1, Shinjuku Time: 4pm-11pm (Shows: 4pm, 5:55pm, 7:50pm, 9:45pm) 1 show approx. 90 minutes Admission: 8,000 yen Access: 5-min walk from JR and Tokyo Metro Shinjuku Station URL: http://www.shinjuku-robot.com/pc/?lng=en

High on Taste, Low in Price, Steeped in Culture!

BQ

pedia

Your guide to the underbelly of Japanese cuisine B級グルメ (“B-Kyu Gurume”) may mean “B-Grade Gourmet” but

the only thing “B-Grade” about

this food category is the price, as most Japanese will swear by the “A-Grade” taste of these local

favorites. Not to be confused as the equivalent of “fast food” in the West. Let WAttention walk

you through this food culture with

Today's BQ menu

Beef Bowl / Gyudon

What it is:

It was in 1858, when Japan finally opened the door to the western world after 300 years of isolation, beef was introduced into Japanese meals at last. Simmering thinly sliced beef with vegetables instantly caught on and spread throughout the nation.

Some added their own flavors and spices, others experimented with cooking methods. When combined, these culinary adventures produced unique Japanese dishes: Sukiyaki and Gyudon. Both of them are quite common and popular to this day. A typical gyudon consists of a bowl of rice topped with beef and onion lightly simmered in a salty-sweet sauce with fish or seaweed stock.

Where to find it: You can find gyudon in many affordable teisyokuya or Japanese set meal joints and some fast food chains that specialize in the dish.

There are hundreds of outlets usually found in commercial and industrial districts and college towns all over Japan.

Why people love it: As a one bowl dish, gyudon is easy to eat and sufficiently filling. It’s a best friend for busy workers and money conscious young people.

Not only that, its mild sweet sauce goes very well with paper-thin beef and achieves a nice tender texture.

Delicious!

our definitive BQ Gourmet guide!

A 1 2 B

3

Must Have

>> WAttention writer

Gyudon findings: What’s inside: A beef B onions C rice

Toppings

B

1 soft-boiled egg 2 pickled ginger

A

C

For more details on BQ Gourmet, check our BQpedia series online at www.wattention.com

3 shichimi (a mix of chili pepper and spices )

WAttention Tokyo

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? ?Wh?at a?re th?e re?aso?ns ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? oms t s u c n i a t r ? ? fo?r ce?in Ja?pan?? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?re ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Histor ? y?

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Why do many Japanese tend to follow them even to this day?

Aesthet

ics

Wonderings About Japan

Japanese culture can appear exotic, even mystical, at times to non-Japanese, and on occasion it strikes outsiders as downright bizarre. With its centuries-old traditions blended intrinsically with Western influences, Japan has cultivated unique customs and cultural nuances like few other countries. We want to know what exactly surprised you upon your first arrival and what sparked your interest in Japan initially. Share your questions and comments with us; we will do our utmost to provide substantiated answers based on the most accurate information!

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WAttention Tokyo

Let us satisfy your curiosity!

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

???????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ? Did ? you ? ever ? ?wonder ? ?…? ????????

Manhole Marvels

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Q Why are manhole cover designs so unique in Japan?

A

We dug deep and found one possible answer on the Japan Ground Manhole Association’s website. It says that the original idea came from a construction specialist from the Japanese Sewer Division’s Ministry of Construction, which advocated the use of well-designed manhole covers to improve the image of the sewage industry in the late 1980s. Since then, many municipalities have been trying to come up with aesthetically pleasing designs.

Believe it or not, they even hold regular competitions!

Q Why do the majority of Japanese tend

not to use their allotted vacation time?

A

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

For this question we sought out a specialist’s opinion and interviewed Ms. Kohzuki, a principle of Noblesse Oblige Academy. Somewhat to our surprise, we learned that Japanese tended to be not as hard working before WWII as they are today; after that experience, Japanese were forced to start new lives from the ground up and thus faced no other option but to work more hours. During that period, many companies implemented a “lifetime employment” system which promised employees stable work and income if they were committed to and productive for the organization. This fundamental mentality of the immediate post-war generation remains strong to this day in many Japanese corporations.

* Noblesse Oblige Academy teaches standard Japanese etiquette as related to traditional spiritual culture.

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

ng at church, funeral Shinto shrine visit, weddi Japanese celebrate ny ma at temple, why do ? different religious events

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Vacation Vacancies

These are just a few of the questions we get. Send any additional questions to editorial@wattention.com

nce between What’s the differe l Family and ria pe Japanese Im lies? foreign royal fami

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

We’ll do our best to answer in detail and of course we welcome any and all feedback!

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Special Survey

Chance to win a unique gift!

In collaboration with WAttention, a new dining concierge service “PlanB” is conducting its own research. Their questionnaire is conveniently located on the opening page of the WAttention website (http://www. wattention.com/). When you reply, you even have the opportunity to win a special gift! * For more information about PlanB, see P.5

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TOKYO MUST DO Enjoy Tokyo like a local on Tokyo Food Tours operated by Arigato Japan, the company also offers some fun Japanese cooking classes. Here are their recommended top 3 areas for izakaya hopping. http://arigatojapan.co.jp

Today’s Guide

Anne Kyle Anne is a traveler by heart who has been to almost 40 countries. She is a foodie and loves helping out travelers. With 20 years of living in Japan, she is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about this country. She runs walking food tours and Japanese homecooking classes for travelers who come to Japan .

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This is Izakaya (Japanese tavern) paradise! One can really enjoy izakaya hopping in Shimbashi because they have a great selection of local and international cuisines! From traditional kamameshi (rice cooked in an iron pot) at Torigin, pork gut skewers at Yakiton or Makochan, all-youcan-eat maguro (tuna) at Nidaitoyokuni to even fish and chips at the British and Irish pubs; there are enough places and cuisines to try you’ll never get it all in over vacation to Tokyo! During the week, you will be overwhelmed by the number of salarymen (working class Japanese) who frequent the local izakayas and thus Shinbashi has become known as the “Salaryman District” which is largely due to it also being a commercial hub to many major Japanese firms.

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Without a doubt, Shibuya is the most popular spot for tourists in Tokyo! The scramble crossing is one of the busiest pedestrian crossings in the world, with an approximate 100,000 people passing through every hour. Shibuya also boasts an amazing snapshot of years past in Nonbei Yokocho (literally, “Drunkard’s Alley”) which is like traveling back in time to the early Showa period littered with yakitori (skewered chicken) bars where you can grab a quick bite and relax with a cold beer. While this hidden gem has lots of bars, some are quite surprising as they can barely fit 5 people. Be prepared to be a bit unconventional as the size of these little taverns do not allow for bathrooms inside and many share them in the alley or out on the street.

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Known for the famous and longest 700m long gado shita (literally, “under the girders”), a track of bar after bar, izakaya after izakaya makes Yurakucho one of the best spots for drinking Japanese spirits! Home to some very rustic izakayas and yakitori shops, this place is popular not just to locals but also to foreigners. One of the most interesting places to visit in this neighborhood is Yurakucho Sanchoku (best known as “farm fresh izayakya street” in English), clustering of 7 unique izakayas that serve some of the best regional food of Japan. If you are only visiting a few spots in the country while you are here, this can be a very good chance to experience some food from the parts of Japan you may never visit.

If you are interested in Arigato Japan Food Tours, go to http://arigatojapan.co.jp/ 28

WAttention Tokyo

Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art Address: Sakado 631, Sakura, Chiba Hours: 9:30am – 5pm (Last entry 4:30pm) Admission: 1,000 yen (Adults), 800yen (College students and people over 65 with ID), 600 yen (Elementary, middle and high school students) WEB: http://kawamura-museum.dic.co.jp/en/index.html YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/KawamuraMuseum