WAttention Tokyo Vol. 25

Tokyo Edition - Taiwan - Los Angeles - Malaysia - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong- Indonesia - Singapore - Mexico - Australia

FREE 2017 Autumn issue VOL.25

SPECIAL FEATURE 1

East Tokyo: Journey Along the Sumida River SPECIAL FEATURE 2

Japanese Craftsmanship and Cultural Heritage

What is

o Trip t aido Hokk

WAttention

Ninja?

You may already know Ninja from comic books and animations, right? But you might not know that Ninja were originally informants, whose primary job was to collect intelligence for Samurai.

WAttention is now recruiting foreign reporters who want to collect and spread information about Japan as WAttention Ninja.

Eat local speciality

WA

Join Us!

The perks of becoming a WAttention Ninja are endless!

Go on interview trips around Japan for FREE Meet with people you don’t normally see and try unique experiences Participate in numerous events and conduct backstage interviews Visit up-and-coming cafes and go to preopening restaurant receptions

WANTED: ! ja in N n io t n e t t A W

prize!? a in w to e c n a h C A Depending on the number and quality of articles you publish, there are numerous awards waiting for you.

Those who excel at being Ninja have the chance to work for WAttention as a professional contributor.

Interested? Wanna know how to become a WAttention Ninja?

Go to : http://www.wattention.com/wattention-ninja

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

Nochi no hina Fest ival

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、 写真:渡辺肇

Hina-matsuri, which falls on March 3 every year, is a traditional event on the calendar. On this day, a set of ornamental dolls is displayed in families with daughters to wish for the health and well-being of young girls.

In the past, people also celebrate “nochinohina-matsuri” on September 9, exactly six month after March 3. The day is also known as “choyo-no-sekku,” or “kiku-no-sekku” because people use chrysanthemum, a symbol of longevity, to decorate the house, wishing for a long life.

On this day, people take the dolls out of the storage to prevent them from getting moldy

and eaten by bugs. In other words, it is a maintenance day for the dolls.

After bathing in the gentle sunlight and the dry air of autumn, the dolls are like new again. You might also catch a smile on their faces. Since long ago, Japanese have been taking the utmost care of the dolls as if there were spirits living in the dolls. To convey the message that autumn is here to the dolls, people would decorate the house with chrysanthemum and burn incense for a week.

The event is an opportunity not only to “nurture the mind and body through taking

care of things” but also to pray for longevity and health. This tradition, however, is disappearing. It is difficult to find families that put out dolls in autumn today.

After celebrating “nochinohina-matsuri,” the dolls are wrapped in new papers, along with insect repellent incense, and put away until the next spring.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

WAttention Tokyo

01

Why“WAttention”?

WAttention is named so with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA （和）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself!

VOL.25

世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention） してほしいという 願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Contents

01 In Harmony with the Seasons

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.

03 Tokyo Hot News

Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki Editorial Team Nancy Liu, Ellen Hwang, Tabea Greuner, Stacey Bird, Cuauhtemoc Velazquez

1 East 04 Feature

Tokyo: Journey Along the Sumida River Ryogoku, Tsukishima and Odaiba

2 Japanese 10 Feature

Language Consultant Joseph M. Shiodah

Craftsmanship and Cultural Heritage

Design Team

Graphic Designers

Preservation of Heritage through Revolution

Kenji Ishida, Michiko Otomo, Haruma Katahira, Ochiai Aki Leonor, Ning Chuang

Spanning a Time Period of 300 Years

Photographers

The Challenges of Professional Craftsmen

Tomoyo Nozawa, Keiji Okazaki, Noboru Hanamura, Hajime Watanabe

Experience the Beauty of Craftwork 16 Another 3hr Trip - How to Make the Best of 3 Hours in Tokyo -

Sales & Marketing Naoki Kiyota, Yuri Nakazawa, Yae Miyao, Doris Lo

22 Robot Restaurant –Stepping Into Another World

Special thanks Rieko Ido, Koran Onishi

23 Words of Japan Sumida River’s Unique Scenery - The White Heron Dance

広告・記事に関するお問い合わせは 和テンション株式会社 〒150-0002 東京都渋谷区渋谷2-3-8 倉島渋谷ビル401号 Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) / 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com

24 Go north from Tokyo; Enjoy Tohoku’s autumn season with all five senses

シンガポール事務所 WAon Pte Ltd 2B Craig Road Singapore 089662 Phone : 65-6324-2127

Follow us on Google+

In This Issue

Autumn 2017

During the Edo period (1603-1867), Tokyo Bay used to be the main gate to Tokyo. It remains a “water city” to this day and its waterfront features many fascinating spots. In this issue we focus on the Sumida River, flowing through eastern Tokyo, and expose its charming hidden spots along the riverside.

Due to many craftsmen residing in the same area since the Edo period, the east side is known as Tokyo’s center of traditional crafts. Follow us, as we introduce you to Tokyo’s traditional crafts

Tokyo Edition - Taiwan - Los Angeles - Malaysia - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong- Indonesia - Singapore - Mexico - Australia

FREE 2017 Summer issue VOL.24

SPECIAL FEATURE 1 SPECIAL FEATURE 2

Don't miss out!

combined with new ideas in our sub-feature.

Despite Tokyo’s image as a big metropolis, the sources of its rivers posses an abundant nature.

During this season you can enjoy the autumn leaves which turn bright yellow and deep red.

Don’t miss our next issue, in which we will introduce West Tokyo’s unknown abundant nature.

-Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

Subscribe to WAttention Tokyo

Please fill out and fax to 03-6862-6760 or email to info-tokyo@wattention.com. We will reply within a few days.

You'll never miss an issue of WAttention Tokyo with home delivery. Order now and the magazine will be at your home.

Yukata Timeless Elegance for the Summer Ikebukuro Stepping Out into the Streets of "Owl City"

Flower Viewing in the Suburbs of Tokyo

My Perfect Gateway from Tokyo: A Day Trip to Hakone

［WAttention Tokyo 定期送付のご案内］ 配布エリア外にお住いの方や、 毎号お読みになりたい方のために定期送付いたします。

Four issues a year / only 1,000 yen Name Address Postcode Tel Email

: : : : : Prices listed in this issue are exclusive of tax.

WAttention Tokyo Tokyo 02 WAttention

TOKYO HOT

EWS

Bringing you the latest hot news

3 Virtual reality roller coaster as real as it can get On July 29, famous theme park Fuji-Q Highland rolled out another batch of new rides to entertain thrill-seekers. “HOBO DODONPA” and “HOBO FUJIYAMA” are virtual reality rides offering experiences almost as real as riding on the theme park’s signature “DODONPA” and “FUJIYAMA” roller coasters. Passengers are seated in a roller coaster carriage and have a virtual reality headset mounted on to display a 360-degree panoramic image. The indoor ride is weatherproof and probably a good chance to conquer one’s roller coaster phobia.

1 More than sushi! A whole multitude of Japanese culture experience

https://www.fujiq.jp/en/

Located in the hustle and bustle of Ginza, sushi restaurant Ginza Sushi Toki is a breath of fresh air that brings you the beauty of Japan’s four seasons through its gourmet cuisine and interior design. From this August, the restaurant started organizing a five-hour Japanese culture experience session during which you can try putting on a kimono, tasting Edomae sushi, performing a Japanese tea ceremony, and having the precious moment photographed by a professional photographer. Reservation has to be made a week in advance. http://sushi-toki.com/eng/experience.php

Photo by Mika Ninagawa

Roppongi Hills Arena Image

4 Pull an all-nighter for art at Roppongi Art Night Started in March 2009, the annual event brings together local residents, retail stores, and cultural institutions around Roppongi to stage a feast of art events. To be hosted from September 30 to October 1, Roppongi Art Night 2017 features “Mirai no Matsuri” (festivals of the future) as the main theme and welcomes photographer Mika Ninagawa as the main artist. Expect to experience a lively festival through her unique interpretation. http://www.roppongiartnight.com/2017/english/

2 The new Noren Meguro Store allures you with its Japanese boutique products On August 5, the household items store “Warakuya Okame Meguro Store” located in atré Meguro was redesigned to open as a Japanese boutique products store named “Noren Meguro Store”. Here, you can find a whole range of boutique products meant for practical use in everyday life or as a gift for special occasions. From small items representing the 24 sekki, or 24 Japanese small seasons, to bonsai trees characterized by Zen Buddhism, each product here is a manifestation of the store’s concept: “Discover Wonderland, JAPAN”. http://noren-japan.jp/en/store/meguro/

5 Modern designer capsule hotel to open in Akihabara Scheduled to open on October 17 in Akihabara, GLANSIT AKIHABARA is a capsule hotel that will challenge your presumptions about the sleeping-in-a-capsule experience. Designed around the theme of glamping (glamorous camping) by the team of famous designer Yasumichi Morita, the interior space of this modern designer capsule hotel is full of greenery and offers guests a unique accommodation experience that feels just like camping in nature. http://glansit.jp/ (Japanese only)

WAttention Tokyo

03

East Tokyo: Located in the heart of East Tokyo, the Sumida River flows through several of the metropolis’ iconic spots, such as Asakusa, Ryogoku and Tsukiji, then eventually into Tokyo Bay. The river used to be the most important trans-shipment center of goods during the Edo period (1603–1867), when Ieyasu Tokugawa, the first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate, moved the nation’s capital to Edo (current day Tokyo) in the 16th century and established a system of waterways.

Since the Sumida River played an enormous role in the life of Edo residents, it also contributed its advantages during summer season; people gathered along the river’s banks enjoying the cool evening breeze during hot and humid summers. In 1733, the river became the main backdrop of the biggest and most historic fireworks display in Japan, which was held in memory of the many victims of a severe famine. Another popular activity was boating. Whether cherry blossom viewing in spring, fireworks displays in summer, or moon viewing in autumn, people always found an occasion to travel leisurely along the Sumida River. It acted as a scene for many stories and ukiyo-e (woodblock color prints of everyday-life in the Edo period) paintings, as well as kabuki (Japanese classical theater) and traditional dances originated along the riverside, making them treasures of Tokyo deeply cherished even today.

Due to constant renewal and improvement, Sumida River’s waterside provides you with some of the most unforgettable experiences and adventures, many of which you likely have not found in Tokyo before. Get on board and follow us from Asakusa to Odaiba along the Sumida River, as we explore its history and the many locations that have prospered from it!

Tokyo Waterworks Historical Museum It all began in the Edo period!

To get in touch with Tokyo’s waterfront, pay a visit to the Tokyo Waterworks Historical Museum and trace back in history how Tokyo developed its water paths. The first step for the development of drinking water supply was made in the beginning of the Edo period, when Ieyasu Tokugawa supported the growth of Edo. The museum introduces the more than 400-year long history of Tokyo’s waterworks, starting with the construction of wooden water pipes, its use and development until the present.

Fukagawa Edo Museum

Time travel to Edo!?

This is the perfect, family-friendly museum for those interested in learning about the lifestyle during the Edo period. Fukagawa Edo Museum has created an actual-size reproduction of the streets from Fukagawa Saga Town during the Tempo period (1830-1844). The best part is that you can walk into the homes and learn about the stories and lifestyles of each occupant. If you have any questions, there are very informative, Englishspeaking volunteers who are more than happy to answer your questions.

Thanks to authentic objects and audio guides (available in English, Chinese, Korean, Japanese), any visit becomes an illustrative experience for young and old alike.

Hours: 9:30am – 5pm (last admission 4:30pm) Closed: 4th Mon of the month Admission: Free Access: 8-min walk from Ochanomizu or Suidobashi Station (JR Chuo-Sobu Line) Address: 2-7-1 Hongo, Bunkyo-ku 04 WAttention Tokyo

Hours: 9:30am – 5pm (last admission at 4:30pm) Closed: 2nd & 4th Mon of the month, New Year holidays Admission: 400 yen (adults), 50 yen (elementary & junior high school students) Access: 3-min walk from Kiyosumi-shirakawa Station Exit A3 (Toei Oedo Line, Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line) Address: 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Koto-ku

Journey Along the Sumida River

Tokyo Great Kayaking Tour Paddling through Tokyo’s Waterways

Yanagibashi Komatsuya Treasuring the Culture of Yanagibashi

For those looking for an adventure over the

Located along Kanda River, which feeds into Sumida River, Yanagibashi

weekend, make a reservation online with Tokyo

Komatsuya is a cute, traditional store that sells tsukudani (seafood and

Great Kayaking Tour and go on a kayak excursion

seaweed that is simmered in soy sauce and mirin, a type of rice wine).

that takes you through Tokyo’s canals. There

Originally in the pleasure boat trade, this family business has had close ties

are several options depending on the season,

with Tokyo’s waterways since 1881. Since relocating to its current location in

but we recommend the East Tokyo Canal Tour

1927, it has become famous for its seasonal, salty delites, which go well with

(12 kilometers) that brings you through spots

rice and sake. The fourth-generation owner continues to maintain the flavor

mentioned in this feature. Get ready to paddle!

of this traditional dish, while also treasuring the culture of the area. With a life shelf of a month, it is the perfect gift!

Hours: Start and finish time differs depending on the tidal level.

Fee: Prices vary depending on the course.

Address: 1-3-2 Shinkawa, Chuo-ku Access: 2-min walk from Kayabacho Station Exit 3 (Tokyo Metro Tozai Line, Hibiya Line) URL: http://www.tokyokayaking.jp/

Hours: weekdays 9:30am – 6pm, Sat 9:30am – 5pm Closed: Sun, national holidays Access: 5-min walk from Asakusa Station Exit A1 (Toei Asakusa Line) Address: 1-2-1 Yanagibashi, Taito-ku

WAttention Tokyo

05

Ryogoku: Tokyo’s Sumo Town Located next to the Sumida River, Ryogoku used to be the largest town in Edo, making it a district full of energy and culture. Today, it offers a place to appreciate Tokyo’s history, culture and crafts, while also enjoying cuisine that has been treasured and matured over multiple generations.

Come enjoy the district's energy and traditional beauty while learning more about sumo wrestling!

Ryogoku Sumo Hall + Sumo Museum

Where Champions are Born

Sumo statues in a variety of poses sprinkled along the sidewalks of Kokugidori Street.

Access: Direct access from Ryogoku Station’s West Exit (JR Chuo-Sobu Line)

Edo NOREN A Taste of Edo

Ryogoku Sumo Hall: While you can only enter the Ryogoku Sumo Hall when you have a ticket to a sumo match, you can still enjoy the ambiance by walking around the vicinity. On the ground level are panel cutouts of current Sumo wrestlers, which are always a fun photo opportunity!

Sumo Museum:

As you walk in, it feels almost as though you are in the middle of a bustling town! Edo NOREN has created an Edo-style village

Check out the free Sumo Museum! We highly

with 12 restaurants serving signature

recommend you purchase the English booklet

dishes of Tokyo. In the center of the

(only 100 yen at the entrance) before you walk

building, you will find booths with local

around the room to see several fascinating sumo

craftsman and a sumo ring (built to actual

artifacts and photos.

size). Enjoy your time in Edo style!

Hours: When there are no tournaments, you can go into the vicinity of the Sumo Hall weekdays 7am – 10pm, weekends 9am – 9pm; Museum 10am – 4:30pm (closed days can vary) Admission: Free Access: 2-min walk from Ryogoku Station’s West Exit ( JR Chuo-Sobu Line) Address:1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku

Hours: 10am – 11:30pm (hours may vary between stores) Closed: Jan 1-2 Access: Direct access from Ryogoku Station’s West Exit (JR Chuo-Sobu Line) Address: 1-3-20 Yokoami, Sumida-ku

06 WAttention Tokyo

Chanko Kirishima

Dine like a Sumo Wrestler!

Chanko nabe (hot pot) is a staple dish Sumo wrestlers enjoy with their meals.

The origin of the word is said to have derived from to-chan (father), an endearing name to call oyakata (master), and ko (child) referring to the pupil.

To get a taste of this nutrition-packed dish, head over to Chanko Kirishima, founded by the former sumo ozeki (second-highest ranking) Kirishima. Their signature is the tonkotsu (pork) broth, which was inspired by the owner’s Kyushu region roots. Traditionally, meat from four-legged animals was avoided (it symbolizes defeat for a wrestler whose hands cannot touch the ground during a match), but this is no longer common.

Enjoy a cup of sake with their course meal that also includes sashimi and vegetables, making it the perfect treat to share with another. On each floor, you will find awards, pictures and items from Kirishima’s career and, if you are lucky, you may even get to meet him in person during the sumo season!

Hours: Mon-Sat 11:30am – 11pm (Last order 10:30pm), Sun & national holidays 11:30am – 11:30pm (Last order 10pm) Access: 2-min walk from Ryogoku Station’s West Exit (JR Chuo-Sobu Line) Address: 2-13-7 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku

Tsukishima: Another Unique Side of Tokyo Further down the Sumida River is a manmade island that is just across the channel from Tsukiji Fish Market. While parts of the island have been redeveloped with highrise apartments, charming neighborhoods resembling old Tokyo remain.

Tsukishima Monja Street Get your Mini-spatula Ready!

To the west along Nakadoori shopping street lies Tsukishima Monja Street, which has about 52 monjayaki (often called simply monja) restaurants from which to

Tsukishima Monja Shinkoukai Gift to Take Home

choose. Cooked on an iron plate at the table, it is pan-

At the entrance of Tsukishima Monja Street is an information center

fried batter with a variety of ingredients including

where they sell monja souvenirs. One cute item is a monja kit that

cabbage, seafood, meat and cheese. Taking a

enables you to recreate and share your monja experience back home!

hagashi (iron spatula), scrape away at this scrumptious dish into your mouth!

Access: 1-min walk from Tsukishima Station Exit 7 (Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line) The oldest koban (police station) in Tokyo.

Built in 1921 (wood), but rebuild in 1926 (concrete).

Hours: 9am – 8pm Closed: weekends Access: 1-min walk from Tsukishima Station Exit 7 (Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line) Address: 1F Aimaku Tower, 1-8-1 Tsukishima, Chuo-ku WAttention Tokyo

07

Tsukishima Kohagido

Old School Senbei Shop

Tsukuda Kobashi

Where Old Meets New

The striking contrast between the red bridge and the highrise buildings has made this a popular photo destination.

As you explore the Popular cat-shaped senbei that comes in miso, garlic, soy s a u ce, g r a n u l a te d sugar and shichimi pepper flavors!

neighborhood, you will feel as though you stepped into a different time, forgetting that you are still in Tokyo.

Access: 5-min walk from Tsukishima Station (Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line) Address: 1 Tsukuda, Chuo-ku

Nestled in the land of monjayaki is a vintage senbei (rice cracker) shop that has been in business since 1933. From

Ishikawajima Lighthouse

the large, glass canister jars to the Showa-era scales

A Unique Site in Tokyo!

and wall decorations with Japanese writing from an Edo period book, the ambiance provides a truly authentic

Erected in 1866, this lighthouse

Showa experience. Enjoy these crunchy snacks that have

was built to guide vessels up the

been loved for generations!

Sumida River. From here, enjoy the spectacular views as cruises

Hours: 9:30am – 8pm Closed: Wed, 2nd Tue & Thur of the month Admission: 3-min walk from Tsukishima Station ( Tok yo Metro Yurakucho Line) Address: 1-19-4 Tsukishima, Chuo-ku

pass by!

Access: 7-min walk from Tsukishima Station (Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line ) Address: In vicinity of Tsukuda Park, 1 Tsukuda, Chuo-ku

Tsukiji Jisaku Precision with one-of-a kind mizutaki This high-end traditional Japanese restaurant (ryotei) was built during the Edo period along the Sumida River. Combining a culture of hospitalit y using the highest standards with authentic Tok yo flavors, Tsukiji Jisaku was established in 1931 in the former villa of Yataro Iwasaki, the founder of the

▲ Jisaku´s traditional mizutaki flavor has been maintained by chefs from generation to generation

Mitsubishi conglomerate.

In sp i te of i t s l o c a t ion dire c t l y n e x t to Tok yo ’s G inz a commercial district, the over 2,600-sq meter wide area houses an extravagant park in addition to the restaurant itself. This well-known restaurant, frequented by a wide variet y of celebrities from each artistic genre, wakes even in local people the urge to experience this fine dining at least once.

Jisaku ’s signature dish is mizutaki, and theirs is unique compared to the varieties served in similar establishments.

▲ Mizutaki, Jisaku´s signature dish combines in perfect harmony a cloudy, rich soup and onions

The ingredients are basic - chicken, onions and water - and the technique was developed to best draw out the chicken’s original flavor. This flavor hasn´t been changed since Tsukiji Jisaku opened its doors, and the recipe has been passed down to only one chef from generation to generation. This is a delightful dining experience that nobody should miss!

Hours: Weekdays and Sat 5pm – 10pm (last order 8pm), Sun and national holidays 11am – 6pm (last order 4pm), open year-round Access: 8-min walk from Tsukiji Station (Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line) Address: 14-19 Akashi-cho, Chuo-ku

09 WAttention Tokyo

▲ Once stepping onto the grounds, you are surrounded by a peaceful atmosphere

▲ Hundreds of colored carp swim in the garden´s large pond

Odaiba: Once a protective barricade, but now Tokyo’s biggest leisure area Looking back in history, this large artificial island consisting of six small islets was initially constructed in 1853 as a fort ( 台場 daiba) to protect Edo (former Tokyo) from sea attacks, when an American naval fleet arrived in July that year to open Japan to the world.

In the late 20th century, Odaiba changed into a seaport district and the bustling place of today was developed in the late 1990s.

Odaiba is commonly known as Tokyo’s biggest leisure area and is visited by tourists as well as locals year-round. Especially popular among couples and young families, Odaiba offers a variety of theme parks, shopping facilities, as well as restaurants located on the shore providing stunning views of the metropolis.

Odaiba Tokyo Ooedo-Onsen Monogatari Step back in time and discover ancient Edo! If you have ever been to a Japanese onsen (hot spring), your experience will be taken to an entirely new level by visiting the Ooedo-Onsen Monogatari theme park, an onsen facility based on the appearance of ancient Edo. Rent a yukata (light cotton kimono) and stroll through the main hall, the theme of which is an oldfashioned summer festival. Take part in a variety of traditional festival games while getting a taste of authentic Japanese cuisine.

After enjoying the lively atmosphere, unwind in the baths area, which features rotemburo (open-air baths), open-air barrel baths and much more. For many visitors, the highlight is a foot bath in the shape of a small garden with bridges and lanterns; since it is not segregated by gender, this is the best place to relax together with your friends, family or romantic partner.

Yakatabune Amikou Get a taste of traditional Edo-style entertainment

Hours: 11am – (next day) 9am (last admission 7am) Admission: 2,612 yen on weekdays & 2,828 yen on weekends (adults); 1,058 yen (children); evening discount available Access: 2-min walk from Telecom Center Station (Yurikamome Line) Address: 2-6-3 Aomi, Koto-ku

Symphony Tokyo Bay Cruise Breathtaking views and extravagant meals

Take your friends or family on a yakatabune

Enjoy a delicious meal while cruising around the Tokyo

cruise and start your travel along the

bay area in a luxurious boat. Book a lunch, sunset or

Sumida River at one of the two piers within

dinner plan and choose between French or Italian

the Asakusa area. Enjoy a pleasant ride

cuisine. Be pleasantly surprised by the superb views

until Odaiba and sample Japanese dishes

you can catch from the windows or the ship’s deck!

which includes fresh seafood directly bought at Tsukiji Fish Market. These traditional boats are equipped with tatami (rice straw flooring mats) and low tables, resembling a typical Japanese home – the perfect location for your get-together. Karaoke is available as well, making the cruise an unforgettable experience.

Admission: Cruises start at 8,500 yen (tax excluded) Access: Pier 1 Azumabashi Bridge: 5-min walk from Asakusa Station Exit 5 (Tokyo Metro Ginza Line) / Pier 2 Sakurabashi Bridge & Sanbashi Bridge: 15-min walk from Asakusa Station Exit 5 (Tokyo Metro Ginza Line) Address: Pier 1: 1-23 Azumabashi, Sumida-ku / Pier 2: 1 Imado, Taito-ku

Hours: Boarding time between 11:50am – 7pm Admission: Boarding c h a r ge s v a r y w i t h t h e t ype of cruise. Prices b e t w e e n 1, 5 0 0 y e n 3,800 yen (adults) & 750 yen - 1,900 yen (children).

A cce s s: 1- min w alk from Hinode Station (Yurikamome Line) Address: 2-7-104 Kaigan, Minato-ku WAttention Tokyo

09

Japanese Craftsmanship and Cultural Heritage Japanese goods, characterized by high technology and exquisite craftsmanship, are highly appreciated around the world. As Japan’s capital, Tokyo is home to crafts that reflect the rich history and cultural treasures of the area. Learn more about Japan’s cultural heritage through the lenses of craft art.

Old Meets New: Preservation of Heritage through In the old days, folding screens were placed in rooms to block the wind from coming into the house. They also functioned as partitions and were seen as an essential for every household. Although Japanese folding screens originated from China, they have become an important part of Japanese culture over the years. Many historic paintings on folding screens are well-preserved because they can be folded and stored. In modern day Japan, folding screens are used as an decorative item in festive celebrations such as Doll’s Day and Children’s Day. According to Kyoichi Kataoka, owner of Kataoka Folding Screens Shop, when folding screens first spread to Japan, Japanese improved the assembly method by using mortise and tenon as joints and adopted washi paper to connect wooden frame panels so that the screens can be folded 180 degrees. These Japanese-style folding screens can be traced back to the Nara Period (710-794).

Established in 1946, Kataoka Folding Screens Shop is Tokyo’s preeminent purveyor of folding screens. Kyoichi Kataoka is the store’s second- generation owner. He and his son Koto , who once studied in the United States, have been promoting the craft for years. “What should be preserved is the culture, rather than the looks or form,” Koto Kataoka told WAttention.

Both the tradition and the craft of folding screens face challenges due to modernity. Folding screens underwent a transformation when they were first introduced to Japan. One thousand years later, the necessity of screens that were originally used to remedy interior design problems is now being questioned.

1 WAttention Tokyo 10

Revolution

Kataoka Folding Screens Shop Folding screens have gained popularity in the west as ornamental pieces, and have been given a new life. The paintings on the screens are no longer restricted to Japanese paintings and ink-and-wash painting. Comic characters and print patterns are also featured on folding screens. “We get asked all the time. Questions like do we make comic themed folding screens.

We think that the combination is great,” said Koto Kataoka. Although he acknowledges that not everyone appreciates this style of mix and match, it is a great

way to reach out to a new audience and potential clients.

The shop takes orders from overseas. Since folding screens are often used as wall decorations in the west, the shop produces screen paintings with visual vibrancy. When introducing folding screens to overseas customers, the staff emphasizes words like “byoubu,” or folding screens in Japanese, to make known the unique culture. Third generation owner Koto Kataoka believes that folding screens are not just furniture pieces, but also provide important cultural heritage. It is not a bad thing to add a twist of creativity to gain the appeal of younger generation and foreign audience.

Tradition and innovation are not two ends of a spectrum but two practices in dialogue with each other. Craftsmen know best how to preserve tradition without sacrificing modernity. That being said, Kataoka Folding Screens Shop is working hard to give a new life to folding screens by cooperating with professional designers.

Kataoka Folding Screens Shop Hours: 10am–5pm (Mon–Sat) Address: 1-31-6 Mukojima, Sumida-ku, Tokyo Access: 1-min walk from Tokyo Skytree Station (Tobu Skytree Line)

WAttention WAttention Tokyo Tokyo

2 11

Spanning a Time Per iod of 300 Years The Challenges of Professional Craftsmen Tokyo’s Ota-ku is home to many small and medium-sized factories that have supported Japan’s manufacturing sector since long ago.

Not only do these factories make parts for automobiles, home appliances and aviation applications, they are also indispensable partners of well-known enterprises. The factories are called “machikoba” in Japanese because of their location in the middle of the town.

Although small in scale, they provide high quality processed products and promises speedy delivery.

In 2011, a group of highly skilled craftsmen working in Ota-ku launched a project called “Shitamachi Bobsleigh,” hoping to develop a sled comparable in quality to those made by BMW for the German national team and Ferrari for the Italian team. As of April 2017, they have made nine bobsleighs that have appeared in races both in Japan and overseas.

Shitamachi Craftsmanship Challenging the World Over the years, more than 100 factories have worked voluntarily with design companies and aerodynamic specialists to develop the world-class sled from scratch. After years of trial and error, their model has finally won the heart of the Jamaican Bobsleigh Federation, which will use the sled to compete in the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter Olympics in South Korea.

Why is Tokyo’s Shitamachi the Home of Craftsmen?

Traditional craft shops and factories are often seen in the streets of Tokyo’s shitamachi, or the Japanese word for downtown. The place is also referred to as the home of craftsmen.

Shitamachi’s history dates back to the beginning of the Edo period. The Tokugawa Bakufu created a feudal system and introduced the art of craftsmanship from Kyoto to Edo. A couple of years later, well-known craftsmen from Kyoto were dispatched to Edo to make a craftsmen town. The town happened to be situated in the lower part of Edo, which equals to the present Ota-ku (Nihonbashi, Kanda, Asakusa and Fukagawa) and Sumida-ku. This area is the Shitamachi. Paying a visit here will give you a unique insight into Edo’s 300 years of history.

In the Edo period, the release of an order to ban luxury goods by the Bakufu unexpectedly promoted the popularity of folk culture. Thus, commoners replaced samurais as the main consumers. They loved to spend money on understated things and this has become one of the features of Edo, a period when the crafts industry thrived.

3 WAttention Tokyo 12

Exper ience the Beauty of Craftwork Edo Komon Patter n @Tokyo Some Monogatar i Museum In the Edo period, textile dyeing owners moved their factories to the Shinjuku area so that they could use the water from the Kanda River.

Although hundreds of shops existed during Edo’s peak period, only about ten shops remain today. Fujita Somekouge (established in 1875) is one of the century-old shops that is trying hard to preserve the heritage passed down from the Edo period.

Fujita Somekouge specializes in making Edo Komon and Edo Sarasa.

To make known the beauty of Edo Komon, the shop owner Fujita Atsushi decided to open his studio to visitors who wants to learn more about dyeing.

Visitors can sign up for a DIY dyeing course and be charmed by this 300year old technique.

Edo Komon, characterized by fine Apply dye-resisting patterns that can only be appreciated paste with the help of an experienced craftsman when viewed up close, was originally a dyeing style used for kamishimo, the formal cloth of samurais. Elegant and low-keyed fashion reflects the style of samurais in the Edo period. During the mid-Edo period, Edo Komon started to gain popularity among commoners. Edo Komon is an umbrella term for Same Komon, and Share Komon, all of which originated in the Edo period.

The dyeing process: 1) Pick out a stencil (the base pattern for dyeing) 2) Make the dye 3) Place the stencil on a piece of white cloth and apply dye-resisting paste 4) Color the white cloth 5) Steam the cloth for 15 to 30 minutes at 90 to 100 degrees Celsius to settle the dye 6) Wash off extra color compound with water 7) Dry the cloth and straighten it With reservation, you can experience the fun of applying dye-resisting paste to a stencil. Leave the rest to the craftsmen and wait for your material to be delivered to your door in a couple of days. If you want to take your materail home with you, sign up for a more comprehensive pattern-dyeing course.

Don’t miss out on the chance to tour the dyeing factory, which has about 120,000 kinds of hand-carved stencils made by Mino washi, a type of Japanese paper created in Gifu Prefecture, on file. Visit the dye room and listen to experienced craftsmen explain how water from Kanda River is used to wash off the dye. Before the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, dyefactories washed their textile and cloths along the riverside. However, due to environmental concerns, water from Kanda River had to be induced to the factories. Today, water from A machine that colors textile automatically Bore water is used to wash off extra dye underground bores is used to wash off the dye.

Tokyo Some Monogatari Museum (Fujita Somekouge)

Hours: 10:00-12:00/ 13:00-16:00 Monday to Friday Fees required for participatory courses.

Reserve one week in advance (weekday only, five people and above) Address: 3-6-14 Nishi Waseda, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Access: A 2-minute walk from Omokagebashi Station on the Toden Arakawa Line

Shop owner Fujita said that his shop has more than 120,000 base patterns for dyeing

Write down your name and wait for the dye to dry

WAttention WAttention Tokyo Tokyo

4 13

Delicate Edo Craftsmanship—Edo Kir iko @ Sumida Edo Kir iko Museum Edo kiriko refers to a type of glassware made in Tokyo. Its history dates back to the Edo period, when people started to cut imported glass from overseas to create delicate patterns.

Colorless glass was first used, followed by light blue and light pink. Traditional Edo style kiriko mostly consists of designs such as birds, flowers, natural scenery and colorful patterns. There are 12 representative designs in total. Why not make your own Edo kiriko at Sumida Edo Kiriko Museum?

Sumida Edo Kiriko Museum

Hours: 10:00-18:00 Closed on Sundays, Holiday, Summer Vacation and New Year Holiday Kiriko Workshop Hours: Three time slots every day (10:30-12:00, 13:00-14:30 and 15:00-16:30) except Sundays and Holiday. Reservation required.

Workshop Fee: Glass paperweight 1,000 yen (tax excluded) for elementary and middle school students. Glass cup 4,000 yen (tax excluded) for high school students and adults Address: 2-10-9 Taihei, Sumida-ku, Tokyo Access: 7-minute walk from Kinshicho Station on Tokyo Metro Hanzonmon Line

Wind Chime Blowing in the Wind—Edo Fur in @Shinohara Fur in Honpo “Furin,” or wind chimes, are one of the earliest imported goods from China. The Japanese started to make glass furin during the Kyoho era of the Edo period. People in Osaka, Kyoto and Edo very much enjoyed furin and would use them as decorative items. The furin’s popularity peaked in 1800, when one furin was said to be worth two to three million yen. It was not until 1887 that furin became cheaper and popular among the general populace. The name Edo Furin was first used by craftsman Yoshiharu Shinohara around 1965 to describe the style of furin passed down from the Edo period.

There are two places in Tokyo that offer a hands-on furin making experience, one of which is Shinohara Furin Honpo. Besides touring the studio for free, there is also a workshop where you can blow and paint glass. If time is not on your side, sign up for the painting workshop and design your own furin.

Shinohara Furin Honpo

Hours: 9:00-18:00 Closed on Sundays and Holiday Workshop Fee: Glass painting 1,500 yen / Make a furin from scratch 2,000 yen *During the busy season, the studio tour and workshop are closed from July to early September. Address: 4-22-5 Minamishinozaki, Edogawa-ku, Tokyo Access: A 12-minute walk from Mizue Station on the Toei Shinjuku Line

Intr iguing and Realistic Craftsmanship —Edo Kimekomi Ningyo Dolls @Mataro Dolls Originating from Kyoto’s Kamo Ningyo in the Genbun era of the Edo period (173641), Kimekomi Ningyo Dolls are dolls with clothes specially inserted into their wooden torso.

Compared to the round faces of Kyoto dolls, dolls made in Tokyo have longer faces and distinctly outlined facial features.

Established in 1919, Mataro Dolls inherited fine doll-making craftsmanship from the Edo period and is dedicated to make intriguing, lifelike dolls. Visitors can help make a Matoro doll and learn about the Japanese traditional craft here.

Mataro Dolls

Hours: 10:00-12:00/13:00-15:30 Closed on Mondays, Fridays, Weekends and Holiday Workshop Hours: Three time slots every day 10:00/13:00/15:00 (Reservation is required three days in advance) Workshop Fee: 6,000 yen per 90 minutes / 9,000 yen per 120 minutes (bring the fabric of your choice) Address: 5-15-13 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo Access: In front of the Naka-Okachimachi Station on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line

14 WAttention Tokyo

Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store

TOKYO Teshigoto’s Creative Collaboration Items @ Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store Main building 5F TOKYO Teshigoto is a project led by the Tokyo Metropolitan Small and Medium Enterprise Support Center to pair craftsmen of more than 40 traditional crafts with designers to develop original products.

The project also aims to promote the popularity of selected traditional craftwork within Japan and overseas. TOKYO Teshigoto seeks to convey the message that traditional crafts are still very much alive and valued in Tokyo.

The project introduces magnificent crafts which are remade into products matching today’s lifestyles and which have practical use worldwide. Among these unique items, you can find a wooden-block-assembled smartphone speaker created by a designer and craftsmen specializing in the production of Buddhist altars. Other innovations include edokiriko (faceted

glass), featuring the typical design of make-up worn by kabuki (traditional Japanese theatre) actors, as well as cute animal-shaped brushes made from actual animal hair. These innovations have captured the hearts of consumers both in Japan and overseas.

TOKYO Teshigoto has a permanent exhibition corner on the fifth floor of Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store. Come by and learn more about Tokyo’s traditional handicrafts and get your hands on your favorite product once discovering its unique charm immediately!

Kabuki Kiriko Kabuki themed Edo Kiriko 18,000 yen Animal Brush Animal style brushes Body brushes made out of horse hair 4,500 yen / Face brushes made out of goat hair 3,800 yen / Nail brushes made out of pig hair 2,800 yen

Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store

Hours: 10:30am -7:30pm/ irregular closing hours Address: Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store Main building 5F, 1-4-1, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Access: 1-min walk from Mitsukoshimae Station (Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, Hanzomon Line)

Shopping Guide

Bottle Armour Edo armor wine bottle bag 90,000 yen (large) /65,000 yen (small)

Kimono Bento Tokyo Bento box with Edo Sarasa chintz pattern 4,000 yen Chopstick box with Edo Sarasa chintz pattern 2,000 yen

Tokyo Onkei Wooden blockassembled speaker for smart phones 57,000 yen

After learning about the traditional crafts of Tokyo, why not use such crafts to decorate your home and show your support for the preservation of Japanese heritage?

Nippon Hyakkaten Okachimachi Collection of Arts and Crafts @Nippon Hyakkaten Okachimachi

Edo Kiriko 15,000 yen (tax excluded)/ Horiguchi Kiriko The design of the cut glass looks a rotating kaleidoscope from different angles

Nippon Hyakkaten sells exquisite Japanese arts and crafts. It has a store in 2k540, an artisan district located beneath the elevated rail line between Akihabara Station and Okachimachi Station. You can get your hands on interesting, fun and seasonal crafts here. Edo kiriko is a recommended gift product.

Nippon Hyakkaten Okachimachi

Japanese Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square

Hours: 11:00-20:00 Closed: Wednesdays and New Year Holiday Address: 2k540 AKIOKA ARTISAN A-1, 5-9-3 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo Access: 7-minute walk from Okachimachi Station

Refined Japanese Crafts @Japanese Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square Handmade crafts are different from massproduced ones because they carry the energy of their creators and add a touch of whimsy to life.

Japanese Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square displays a wide array of crafts from different corners Edo wood engraving of Japan. It is an ideal destination for shoppers Tokyo glassware looking for unique souvenirs to bring home.

Aoyama Square is financially supported by Traditional Craft Products Industry Promotion Tokyo Association. The shop displays all kinds of craft silverware works for purchase.

Japanese Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square

Hours: 11:00-19:00 Opens all year round Address: 1F 8-1-22 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo Access: 4-minute walk from Exit 4 of Aoyama Ichome Station on the Tokyo Metro

cotogoto

Happiness in Small Things@cotogoto Cotogoto has a collection of sundry goods that are made with Japanese materials and designed to reflect the seasons of Japan. Other creative art and craft items are designed to satisfy the souls of those who love a modern twist on tradition.

Aluminum bento box Oval/ Square

cotogoto

Hours: 11:00-20:00 Opens all year round Address: 2F 4-27-17 Koenji, Suginami-ku, Tokyo Access: 1 minute from JR Koenji Station South Exit

WAttention Tokyo

15

How to Make the Best of 3 Hours in Tokyo It is the last day of your trip and you have three hours left before departing for the airport. Don’t know what to do with the time?

WAttention did the homework for you. Here is a three hour itinerary that will leave you entertained, refreshed and with lots of memories of Japan!

Ginza Station

1

!

Unlike most streets in Tokyo, which are nameless and often curve off, the ones in Ginza are laid out like a grid. Every street has a name as well as a history worth investigating.

Besides being awe struck by impressive business complexes and international fashion brand shops that line the main streets, why not take a stroll to discover the art t best that Ginza has to offer?

S

Intersection at Ginza 4-chome The name Ginza originated in the Edo period as a site for silver coin mint. In Japanese, Ginza literally means the “place where silver is minted”. The monument that marks the origin of Ginza can be found on the east side of Chuo-dori.

2

Namiki-dori Namiki-dori is a shopping street

Noritake Ginza Store

that features a red granite path

Noritake, a leading Japanese ceramic company

bordered by tall lime-trees. Feel

with more than 100 years of history, is loved by

the authentic atmosphere of Ginza

people all over the world for its chinaware. Visit

on this iconic street lined with high

the Noritake Ginza Store to get a glimpse into their

3

class fashion flagship stores.

Mikasa Kaikan After passing the Harumi-dori, you will see Mikasa Kaikan, an

4

old restaurant complex that serves as a Ginza landmark.

Dedicated to introduce a u t h e n t ic w e s te r n c uisin e to Japan, Mikasa Kaikan first opened in 1925 and has had a branch in Ginza since 1947.

Choose from all kinds of cuisine, including Japanese, Italian and more, here.

artistic collections and see how beauty is defined through dinnerware.

5

Ginza Shiseido Building The headquar ters of Japanese cosmetic maker Shiseido is also located on Namikidori. This modern architec ture cleverly incorporates the tsubaki (camellia) motif symbolizing Shiseido and embodies the company ’s sense of aesthetics and beauty.

16 WAttention Tokyo

6

7 Watanabe Color Print Company Founded in the Meiji period, this old standing woodcut print store collects works by famous ukiyo-e masters like Utagawa Hiroshige as well as modern artists. Get your hands on not only rare collections but also reasonably priced art as a gift for friends back home.

8 A monument commemorating Ginza’s past as a brick town

Ginza Konparu-dori

In the old days, Ginza used to be a large brick town that extended for as

Walk to the very end of Namiki-dori and

long as 10 kilometers. Although most brick buildings were destroyed by

wander back on Konparu-dori, a nostalgic

a fire caused by 1923 Great Kanto earthquake, there is a monument to

s treet where geisha used to roam, to

remind people of the past.

immerse in a different atmosphere.

The street got its name in the Edo period, when the area was home to the estate of the Konparu School of Noh Theater. Today, the

9

Konparu Festival is held on August 7 every

Konparu-yu Konparu-yu is a sento, or public bath house, with rich cultural herit age. In the Edo period, Tok yoites loved hot baths and that love has contributed to the making of sento in the middle of

year. Compared to Namiki-dori, Konparudori is lined with shops smaller in scale, but equally rich in tradition and personality.

10

busy commercial districts today.

When founded in 1863, Konparu-yu was a wooden establishment. Now it has taken up the space of a modern building. The old fashioned bathhouse has tile paintings of Japanese carp fishes and a wall painted with Mount Fuji—something you don’t come across every day.

To

Ex kyo

pre

ssw

▲ Hibiya

ay

Located on Konparu-dori, Mikawaya is a one-of-

◀ Shinbashi

❼ Wattention

❽

a-kind shop selling condiments that most people

Scan this QR code ▲ for details about the places featured.

❺

❻

Irizake-no-Mikawaya

❹

in the Edo period would recognize. Irizake and Ninukijiru are popular food seasonings among Japanese women, who are keen to learn the secret

❸

of Japanese cuisine and want to give more variations to their cooking rather than just using soy sauce and miso paste as the main ingredients.

❷

❾

Tokyo Metro Ginza Station w200mm×h60mm t=0mm

Kyobashi ▶︎

▼ Higashi-ginza

There are a lot of counter-style restaurants on Konparu-dori, serving oden, yakitori, sushi and

2017.08.18

❶

various Japanese street food. How about giving your taste buds a tasty treat?

Intersection at Ginza 4-chome

Narita Airport

Haneda Airport

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 72-hour

6,000

34.8%

￥5,700

30.5%

3,400

17.1%

Adult

￥ Smooth and Comfortable Cruising

from Airport!

Unlimited rides on All

Tokyo Subway Lines!

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 48-hour Adult

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 24-hour Adult

￥

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 72-hour Adult

3,500

35.9%

3,200

28.3%

1,800

20%

￥

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 48-hour Adult

￥

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 24-hour Adult

￥

OFF

Asakusa

Senso-ji temple, Tokyo’s most popular tourist spot is teeming with hordes of tourists all year round. If you feel you want to get away from the hustle and bustle and spend some quiet time, then stroll through the park that lines the Sumidagawa River, or go across it and tour temples, shrines and the old sweet shops of the Mukojima area.

1

!

ar St t

Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center A tourist information center located inside a unique building in front of the Asakusa Kaminarimon Gate. The building is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of the best-known Japanese architects. The ceiling and the interior are quite interesting so don’t even consider skipping it. The night view of Asakusa from the observatory on the 8th floor’s terrace is also highly recommended.

The Sumida Park covering the east bank of the Sumidagawa River is a waterfront oasis. It’s known for its cherry blossoms, and except from that season, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds and relax. Let’s continue upstream along the river.

2

Sakurabashi Bridge Sakurabashi is a unique pedestrian bridge crossing the Sumidagawa River. With 170 meters in length and a unique “X” shape, it connects both banks of the Sumida Park. The bridge also features an original monument by the well-known Japanese painter Ikuo Hirayama. Let ’s cross the bridge and continue to the East bank of the river.

4

5

Kofuku-ji Temple

7 Aoyagi Seike http://www.aoyagiseike.jp/en/

18 WAttention Tokyo

While continuing your path upstream along the east bank, you will then find Chomei-ji temple, made famous by Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty who praised the water of the natural spring inside this temple saying it grants a long life. But, perhaps more famous than the temple itself, are the Sakuramochi sold in front of its gates.

Sakuramochi are rice cakes wrapped with the pickled leaves of cherry blossom trees from the embankment of the Sumidagawa river.

Kototoi Dango

Mukojima Area

6

This restaurant of fers a popular and generously sized Tendon (tempura over rice bowl). Do not miss out on the Mukojima B u r g e r ( t a ke - o u t o n l y ) . P e r f e c t f o r munching on while walking, small shrimp and lotus root fritters are stuffed in a grilled rice ball.

Chomei-ji Temple and Sakuramochi

If you have a sweet tooth, then stop by another shop carrying a specialty from the area: “Kototoi Dango”. This shop started by accident when the local gardener once made some dango (sweet rice dumpling) and it got really popular.

You will see a temple with a Chinesest yle gate on your left-hand side. It’s a temple that belongs to the rare Buddhist school of zen called Obaku.

There is a unique stone statue called Seki No Jijibabason that is believed to prevent the common cold.

Kawahara no Abe

3

Keep walking and you will find a Japanese sweets shop inside an elegant building.

T heir s weet s , inspired by the four seasons are great with a cup of matcha tea. Monaka, a Japanese wafer sandwich filled with sweet bean jam and Chestnut sweet jelly are the must-try items on this shop’s menu. The latter keeps well, which makes it ideal as a souvenir.

This area was considered a popular spot for flower viewing and natural beauty, and has been beloved by writers and artists since the Edo period. Their presence in the area sparked the construction of several Ryotei, or luxurious Japanese restaurants, where Haikai and Renga poetry meetings would be held, giving birth to a legion of geisha to entertain the guests. During the Edo period it was a lively geisha quarter filled with high-class Japanese restaurants.

You can also find a Ryotei right next to Aoyagi Seike, where you can indulge in high-class dining.

8

Asakusa Station

❶

Senso-ji Temple

Scan this QR code ▶︎ for details about the places featured.

Tokyo Metro Toei Subway Line

Sumida River

❷

Tokyo Expressway

Mimeguri Shrine

❾

Tobu Sky tree Line

Beyond that area you can f ind Mimeguri Shrine, traditionally associated with local farmers who used to come to the shrine to pray for rain. Here, you must see the Torii gate with three columns called Sankakuishitorii. It is extremely rare and gives the place a special and mysterious power.

9

Kototoi Bridge

Azuma Bridge

Tobu Line

❽ ❼

❸❹ ❺ ❻

▼ Skytree

10

Ushijima Shrine This shrine, located on a corner of the Sumida Park on the east bank of the Sumida River, has a Miwa Torii, a unique torii gate that features two smaller torii gates on each side, attached to the main central one, an imposing sight that makes it look like the ultimate Torii gate. It also features a popular cow statue known as nadeushi, said to heal your ailments if you caress it. Inside the shrine you can also see lots of Koma Ushi, protective stone statues of cows instead of the more usual Koma Inu, or lion-dog commonly found outside shrines and temples.

Sumida Park The park spans both sides of the Sumida River, however this side of the river and the Asakusa temple side have completely different atmospheres. There is a splendid Japanese garden with a pond. It was originally the site of the residence of the Mito Tokugawa family, who belonged to the Tokugawa Shogunate.

Here, You can contemplate the strange, yet harmonious landscape combining a traditional Japanese garden and the modern Tokyo Sky Tree.

From here, you can decide whether to head back to Asakusa Station by crossing either the Azumabashi Bridge or the Kototoi Bridge or continue in the direction of the Tokyo Sky Tree.

Asakusa Station

Ueno

Making the most of your time in Tokyo’s Shitamachi

1

!

ar St t

If you still have some time in your hands after visiting Ameyoko shopping street and the various museums in Ueno Park, why not experience a different side of Ueno? To save time getting from one place to another, just hop on the local mini Megurin bus!

❷ Ueno Zoo Tokyo Metro

Nezu Station Scan this QR code for details about the places featured.▼

Start from Ueno Station

by Bus on Foot

20 minutes Get off at Sendagi Station at bus stop number 13

2

5 minutes walk

Kayaba Coffee and Shitamachi Museum

Nezu Shrine and Otome Inari Shrine Nezu Shrine is a historic shrine known for its natural beauty. Surrounded by lush green trees and 3,000 azaleas that come in full bloom every spring.

Otome Inari Shrine, famous for thousands of bright red torii gates that form an impressive tunnel, is on the grounds of Nezu Shrine. 1 minute walk

3 4

Nezu-no-Taiyaki Taiyaki is a sea-bream shaped waffle-like snack filled with a sweet paste. Nezu-no-Taiyaki serves homemade taiyaki fresh off the iron grill. 1 minute walk Hantei The area in front of Nezu Shrine used to be bus tling and f illed with store fronts. Hantei is an establishment representative of the area’s historic character. This classic al, wooden three -s tor y building, renovated in the Meiji period, now doubles as a fun, modern sweets shop and a kushiage (fried foods) restaurant.

5

The slope between Shinobazu Dori and Kototoi Dori is called Nezu Ginza Dori. It is a shopping street that locals like to frequent. Offering a mix of old and new shops, the street radiates both nostalgia and vibrancy. 1 minute walk

JR Line

7

8

Get on the Megurin bus at bus stop number 17 facing the Shitamachi Museum. The bus runs along Shinobazu Pond, a famous attraction that dates back to the Edo period. The pond is often seen in ukiyo-e, a genre of Japanese art that flourished from the 17th century.

15 minutes by bus Ueno Station

atré Ueno: Shops & Restaurants Loved by Tourists

Address: 7-1-1 Ueno Taito-ku, Tokyo Access: right outside JR Ueno Station Central Gate Telephone: 03-5826-5811 (10am - 6pm) Hours: Shops 10am - 9pm Restaurants and cafes 11am - 11pm WEB: www.atre.co.jp.e.ww.hp.transer.com/store/ueno

Tokyo Metro

6

Kayaba Coffee has been serving aromatic coffee and comfort foods in the Yanaka neighborhood for 70 years.

Shit amachi Museum showcases the history and life of Tok yoites b e t w e e n l a t e 19 t h century and early 20th century. Shitamachi is the Japanese word for “downtown” or the lowlying parts of the city.

Nezu Ginza Dori

Ueno Station

Tokyo Expressway

the fare is 100 Yen each way for both adults and children. See Tok yo National Museum, Kaneiji Temple, Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street and many other attractions from the bus window.

Shinobazu Ponds

JR Yamanote Line

Catch the Megurin bus at the number 2 bus stop in front of Ueno Station’s “Koenguchi”. The bus runs every 15 minutes and

Ueno Park

◀︎ O

tem

Explore Japan’s Wall Street

achi

xpress

Scan this QR code ▶︎ for details about the places featured.

way

Nihonbashi Station

Tokyo Station

❷

Kabuto-cho Area ay

Yaesu Shopping Mall

res Exp yo To k

1

!

ar St t

Not many people know that the financial district, considered the hub of the Japanese economy, lies just a stone’s throw away from Tokyo Station. While it’s mainly a business area, visitors can still spot well-established old shops that have inherited traditions.

Tokyo E

sw

Tokyo Station

▼ Kyobashi

Start at Tokyo Station / Yaesu Shopping Mall Yaesu Shopping Mall, directly connected to Tokyo Station Yaesu exit, is an underground shopping mall boasting close to 180 top-class shops and restaurants.

4

Located to the south of Kabuto Jinja Shrine is TSE Arrows, a space offering information about the stock exchange as well as tours that anyone can join. See the economy in motion as Japanese companies trade in real time.

Guided tours in English are offered twice per day. http://www.jpx.co.jp/english/corporate/tour/ tse/index.html

To your right, lies Ginza, to your left, Nihonbashi. Since the Edo period, Chuo Dori Avenue has long been considered Tok yo’s most prestigious street. Continuing along this avenue, you will see a lot of high-rise buildings, but you can still find many shops with a long history. 5 minutes walk

2

Haibara / Shugyoku Bunko Gallery This washi or traditional Japanese paper seller has been in the area for more than 200 years. The store’s hand-made beautiful stationery products made with washi are certainly eye-catching. The history and culture of washi paper that Haibara has cultivated is showcased to the public at its Shugyoku Bunko Gallery.

12 minutes walk

5

6

After passing the highway, you will find yourself at the Kabutocho area, home to Tokyo’s financial district and filled with banks and securities companies. Here you will find Kabuto Jinja, a small shrine frequented by people working in the financial industry.

1 minute walk

Kabutocho Kayabacho Machikado Museum Traditional festivals have long been held in this area. But even if no festivals are scheduled when you visit, this musem’s year-round exhibition features the wonderful mikoshi and floats used during the festivals.

10 minutes walk

3

Kabuto Jinja Shrine

Tokyo Stock Exchange

Nihonbashi Takashimaya department store The final spot on this tour is the previously m e n t i o n e d N i h o n b a s h i Ta k a s h i m a y a department store. This famous building is an interesting blend of European elements and Japanese construction methods. From the marble colonnade at the entrance to intricate decorations, there is much to admire.

10 minutes walk Tokyo Station Yaesu Exit

Tourist Information Center faced Nihonbashi Entrance Square of Tokyo Station.

Service

■Wi-Fi Router Rental / SIM Card Sales ■Free Wi-Fi spot / Internet service available ■Tourist information service of Tokyo & other areas of Japan ■Multilingual concierge service ■Introduction of tourist sites & sightseeingroutes ■Guiding transportation ■Help Booking accommodations ■Booking tours ■Tourist information through PCs free of charge ■Free space to read brochure at the café next door

TEL:03-5220-7055 10:00-19:00

Access

en

N

O

.0 05

t

Di * O n e s co 1, ow thics opaun upon per 00 ge fot T perso 0 r a diisccke n y oun t Sh

Robot

Restaurant The Robot Restaurant’s big flashy sign stands out even among the sea of neon lights of the Kabukicho district in Shinjuku, Tokyo, acting as a gateway into a different world. Going down a few stories on an elevator, underneath the street level, the venue delivers a surreal high-energy show that challenges the limits of creativity.

The journey down the rabbit hole starts with a group of drummers resembling characters from kabuki plays if it featured rock-androll music. They perform on floats adorned with daruma dolls and demons from old Japanese legends, hitting the taiko drums and the cymbals with all their might; all the while ninja and samurai acrobats whirl and twist before the eyes of the bewildered spectators.

The show then introduces an entirely new world: muses straight out of Greek mythology, or rather a 90’s video game must defend their peaceful kingdom from what can only be described as a legion of robot space invaders. Dryice-breathing monsters and warriors wielding laser weapons fight to the death riding on fearsome rubbery beasts that spew sparks at each other.

“It’s a great, crazy show.

I don’t think it gets any crazier than this.”

“We learned about the Robot Restaurant on a TV show and decided to come and see it for ourselves.”

Af ter the epic fight, the next bit features mysterious dancers wrapped in color ful neon lights who execute a fresh, modern routine under a shower of green lasers. All in preparation for the final and most extravagant act: a parade of friendly robots dancing to pop music, outlandish floats, samba dancers covered in feathers and passionate musicians. They all come together to deliver a powerful finale that will leave you, yes, perhaps a little confused, but in a good mood and happy to have witnessed something that can only be seen in Japan.

Robot Restaurant Jens & Andrea from Switzerland

Address: 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku Time: 4pm ー 11pm (Shows: 4pm, 5:55pm, 7:50pm, 9:45pm) 1 show approx. 90min Admission: 8,000 yen Access: 5-min walk from JR and Tokyo Metro Shinjuku Station

22 WAttention Tokyo

Paul & family from the USA

URL: http://www.shinjuku-robot.com/pc/?lng=en

Words of Japan

vol.11

Sumida River’s Unique Scenery

隅田川の風景「白鷺の舞」 Shirasagi no mai ~ [The White Heron Dance] Since the Edo period (1603-1868), the Sumida River has acted as an important transportation and traffic artery and became vierually indispensable for Tokyo’s residents. Many ukiyo-e (woodblock color prints of everyday-life in the Edo period) paintings depict the Sumida River as one of Edo’s most popular spots. Whether cherry-blossom viewing in spring, fireworks displays in summer or moon gazing in autumn, whenever there was an opportunity people went out to enjoy the city’s scenery from the river.

Isn’t it like the relationship between Manhattan and its Hudson River?Even today, people stroll or jog along the riverbank, and sightseeing boats, as well as fishing boats, pass each other. The Sumida River has been and remains closely related to the life of Tokyoites.

While walking along Sumida River you will notice many waterfowl, such as gulls, ducks, and the occasional appearance of herons. Once I saw a white heron flying off the flowing river,

as if he was dancing directly on the water’s surface. I did not capture this moment in a photograph, nor a painting, but this calligraphy illustrates the “white heron dance.”

The flowing water is expressed with thin-watery ink; dark ink represents the flapping winks of the heron; and the lightness and elegance of the dance is highlighted with light, thin lines.

In April, May and November, the annual “white heron dance” festival takes place at one of the most popular spots along Sumida River, the Senso-ji Temple. Among the calm rhythms of flute and drums, dancers move in costumes resembling the white heron. Besides picking up food, the white heron is also said to takes away evil from the audience and provides them with good fortune. With the temple in the background, the dancers walk along the grounds’ main road and with their large, white wings - they look especially elegant and beautiful!

If you have the chance, pay a visit to one of Asakusa’s most famous places!

Profile of Koran Onishi A contemporary Japanese calligrapher who has received numerous accolades, including Excellent Work Awards at the 2015 and 2016 Mainichi Shodo Competition.

WAttention Tokyo

23

Discover more about Tohoku’s nature, history, culture and cuisine.

Tohoku Special 2017 autumn & winter

wattention.com/tohoku-special

Like us on Facebook!

Factbook.com/wattention 24 WAttention Tokyo

Blessed with picturesque autumn foliage and abundant nature, enjoy Tohoku’s autumn season with all five senses Tohoku’s autumn is short and, as autumn foliage comes to an end, the snow season follows immediately. During this short period of time, the drastic change of nature is stunningly beautiful. Golden rice ears hang their heads on the paddy fields and mountains are coloured in vibrant reds and yellows. Grounds look like carpets of yellow maple leaves and silvery shimmering salmon swim up the river to lay their eggs. Make your way to Tohoku during its most bountiful time, the harvest season!

Apple Kingdom

Hirosaki’s apple pies

Hirosaki 30-min ride from Shin-Aomori Station( JR Tohoku Shinkansen) by Tsugaru Limited Express

Mount Iwaki, also called “Tsugaru Fuji” (Tsugaru describes the western region of Aomori ken), is in Aomori, Honshu’s northernmost area. Autumn is the best season to enjoy a variety of colours at Oirase Mountain Stream and Lake Towada, as well as the lush red apples growing in abundance at the foot of the mountain; Japanese apples are famous for being quite large and flawless in taste and texture. The cultivation of apples in Aomori began at the start of the Meiji Restoration by unemployed samurai. In 1875, the region, which had not been used for apple cultivation before, received three apple saplings from the West. Samurai, who had lost their social status, exchanged their katana (single-edged swords) with pairs of shears and refined the technique of sentei (pruning). Hence, Aomori became Japan's best area for producing apples. These ripened fruits, which survive harsh climate conditions such as heavy snow and drastic temperature differences between day and night, offer a unique harmony between sweet and sour, giving them an especially rich flavour.

Hirosaki, the pioneer cit y for apple production, features about 50 shops which produce apple pies. Growing popularity among the tourists are the “Apple Pie Map,” showing all the shops selling this delicacy, as well as the baking event where an apple pie with the diameter of three metres is made.

Including the production of apple juice and cider, this fruit plays an essential part in Aomori’s culture.

After enjoying the picturesque scenes of autumn colours at Oirase Mountain Stream, Lake Towada and from the Hakkoda Ropeway, set off to Hirosaki and get a taste of Aomori’s local speciality!

An apple orchard in front of Mount Iwaki

View of Hakkoda Mountain Range from Towada’s water-lily pond

Oirase Mountain Stream’s Choshi-Otaki Waterfall WAttention Tokyo

25

Best Autumn Fruits to Enjoy

Make your own parfait at Takahashi Fruit Land (Kaminoyama, Yamagata ken)

Sample some of Tohoku’s best autumn fruits by taking a train that travels through a forest of autumn colours! Get off at Furukawa Station on the Tôhoku Shinkansen and take the Rikû-East Line. This runs through Naruko, a hot spring village with more than 1,000 years of history. Naruko has a cluster of five hot springs—Naruko, East Naruko, Nakayamadaira, Kawatabi and Onikobe—and is home to Naruko Kyo(Gorge), the Tohoku region’s most scenic of gorges. From Naruko-Onsen Station, the train travels along the Araogawa River before climbing up a slow slope toward

Workshop for dried persimmons (Takahashi Fruit Land in Kaminoyama)

Naruko Gorge, where colourful foliage decorates rocky cliffs in autumn.

This is absolutely one of the best scenic train trips in Japan! (Foliage viewing season is from late October to early November.)

Shinjô is the last station on the Rikû-East Line. After foliage viewing, why not take the shinkansen to Yamagata Prefecture for a feast of seasonal fruits? Known as the Fruits Kingdom, Yamagata is the number one producer of cherries and pears in Japan. Apples, grapes and many other juicy fruits are also grown here. Tourists can visit orchards, hand pick grapes (early September to late October) and pears (October), and even have a try at making dried persimmons. Tourist orchards can be found in Yamagata’s Kaminoyama and Tendo cities.

Autumn foliage at Yama-dera Temple 20-min ride from Yamagata Station ( JR Yamagata Shinkansen) until Yamadera Station ( JR Senzan Line)

Another must-visit spot is Risshaku-ji. The temple, also called Yama-dera, consists of 30 big and small halls. A moss-covered stone staircase starts from the foot of the mountain and goes all the way to the majestic halls and temples on rough, stony cliffs. The heavenly landscape, coupled with red leaves, looks just like a painting on a Japanese wooden screen.

Kaminoyama Get off at Kaminoyama-Onsen Station ( JR Yamagata Shinkansen)

In Yamagata, you can enjoy pear picking (mid-September until end of October)

View of Naruko Kyo

Ocean Flavours

Various salmon dishes (grilled with salt, pickled in sake lees or smoked)

Autumn is full of activities in Tohoku! It is the time of year when locals are busy preserving food for the long, harsh winter ahead, and visitors are welcome to have a taste during this culinary tradition. Tsuruoka city’s Yura, the biggest fishing port in Yamagata Prefecture, has developed many ways to preserve its great salmon catches, one of which is covering the fish in distillers’ grains and miso paste. Besides eating it raw and with sushi, you can also grill it with salt, marinate it in soy sauce or boil it in sweet Japanese sauce.

Niigata’s Murakami city has enjoyed fame for its salmon cuisine since the

Salmon hanging from the eaves to expose them to the cold sea breeze (Murakami, Niigata ken)

Edo period (1603-1867). It is customary to hang salt-preserved salmon from the eaves of houses in early December. Gusts of cold winter wind dry off the moisture in the salted salmon, giving it a rich, sophisticated texture. The sight of thousands of salmon hanging from traditional Japanese houses in winter is as fascinating as it can get!

Japanese sandfish is also a common winter treat. The fish, also referred to as “God fish” on the Oga Peninsula, swims to Akita Prefecture for spawning in December. Salt-preserved Japanese sandfish(Hatahata) is an important source of protein during winter. People in Akita grill it with salt, cook it in a hot pot and eat it with seaweed paper. Trying this treat is a must when you visit Tohoku!

Murakami

1-hr ride from Niigata Station ( JR Jôetsu Shinkansen) until Murakami Station ( JR Uetsu Line)

An experienced cook busy salting (Murakami, Niigata ken)

Fish market in Sakata

View of the Sea of Japan during autumn from Oga Peninsula

Sailfin sandfish dish WAttention Tokyo

27

Dear Readers,

Since we are always seeking to put the magazine as close in line with your preferences as possible, we would love to hear your thoughts. Please help us by answering five, brief questions.

Got a minuTe?

Get a gi f t!

Those who submit a completed survey will stand a chance to win one of the six unique prizes below!

by answering our survey

-THREE YANAGAWA MARI BALLS, decorative cotton balls embroidered with yarns of different colors. In Yanagawa, Fukuoka prefecture some people display them on their home on New Year’s Day and Hina Matsuri (Doll’s Festival) on March 3rd.

-THREE ORIGINAL CHARACTER PENS by Noren, be the

envy of your classmates or co-workers with one of these unique pens in the shape of different Japanese characters.

WAttention Survey ➊ Where did you find WAttention Tokyo Vol.25?

1.#Airport 2. #Train station 3.#Hotel 4.#Workplace 5.#Subscription 6.#Other ❷ How often have you read WAttention Tokyo?

1. Once 2. Twice 3. Three or more times 4. Subscriber ❸ Which articles did you find most interesting in WAttention Tokyo Vol.25?

Choose all that apply 1. In Harmony with the Seasons 2. Tokyo Hot News 3. East Tokyo: Journey Along the Sumida River 4. Japanese Craftsmanship and Cultural Heritage 5. Another 3hr Trip 6. Enjoy Tohoku’s autumn 7. Robot Restaurant 8. Words of Japan

❹ After reading WAttention Tokyo Vol.25, where did you want to go or what would you like to experience?

E.g. “page 10, Japanese Craftsmanship and Cultural Heritage ❺ What would you like to see in WAttention Tokyo’s next special features?

Basic information Name: Age: Gender: Nationality: City and country of residence: E-mail address:

Please send your answers Online: Scan the QR code with your cell phone, where you will be directly guided to the survey page, or visit the following link. www.wattention.com/survey Post: WAttention Co., Ltd. Kurashima Shibuya Bld. 401 2-3-8 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Japan 150-0002 FAX: 03-6862-6760 E-mail: survey@wattention.com

*For a chance to win a prize, please complete the survey by Nov 30th, 2017.

We would love to respond to each and one of you, but due to time constraints, we will only be in touch with the winners.

Reader’s personal information will not be be shared with a third party. Also, answers to the survey will only be used for our reference, as we look to improve our magazine for our readers.

Online QR code: