WAttention Tokyo Vol.33 by WAttention

Tokyo Edition

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FREE Autumn 2019 VOL.33

Your guide to the best of Tokyo

Sports Special

Exciting Huge Sports Events are Brewing in Tokyo

Culture Special

Flourishing Japanese Theater from Edo to The Modern Era

Another 3hr Trip

Explore the Unique Variety of

Niigata

Around Tokyo in 180 Minutes

Short Trip from Tokyo

Misaki Port & Jogashima

Love Japan? Follow

WAttention

暦 Koyomi

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

October

神無月

The Seven Autumn Grasses 秋の七草

folding screens “The Seven Autumn Grasses”

ALL AN WEST Born in 1962 in the US, Allan West settled in Tokyo and eventually graduated with a Master of Fine Arts from Tokyo University of the Arts. You can visit his open studio in Yanaka, Tokyo. www.allanwest.jp text & artwork / Allan West, coordination / Mariko Takahashi, photo / Keiji Okazaki

lace, bellﬂower, eupatorium, and sedge. There is a fragrance these plants emit, and whenever I smell this autumn musk, I imagine an infusion of dried leaves and chrysanthemum petals creating a There is a poem I like from the Edo period..."The Musashino

reddish brown tea to enrich the loam below.

Plain, where for lack of mountains, the moon must rise and set from behind the grasses." It evokes in me that time in the autumn when

Not too many days after the photographers left, I looked once

the night air is clear, and the moon seems closer than usual. I feel as

again at this painting and realized that I don't need to paint only

though I'm missing something... when was it that cicadas turned the

one of the subjects, I can have the enjoyment of both... in the same

stage over to crickets?

painting! So I must apologize, the painting now has a silver moon. If you ﬁnd yourself in Tokyo, and you have a moment to stop by my

The motif I was thinking of painting is the seven grasses of

studio, you will be able to see where this new moon is placed.

autumn. Chrysanthemum, pampas grass, bush clover, Queen Anne’s WAttention Tokyo |

Why “WAttention”? Our name comes from the hope that people around the world will pay more “Attention” to “WA（和） ; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself!

VOL.33

世界中の人々に「和」（WA）に注目（Attention）してほしいという願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Contents 01

In Harmony with the Seasons

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.

Tokyo Hot News

Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

Feature 1

Exciting Huge Sports Events are Brewing in Tokyo - The History of Rugby in Tokyo - Making the Most out of Tokyo During the Rugby World Cup - Start your day oﬀ right with the Imperial Palace Run

Feature 2

Flourishing Japanese Theater from Edo to the Modern Era - The Theater Scene in the Edo Period - The Modern Theater

Transcendence in Tokyo: Art, Reality and teamLab

15 16

Feature 3

SUIGIAN: Where Edo meets Tokyo Another 3hr Trip

Editorial Advisor Mariko Takahashi / Isako Watanabe Language Consultant Joseph M. Shiodah Editorial Team Ellen Hwang / Jude Austin / Jaid Mathews Nancy Liu / Andrew Smith / Mikaela Jacques Hsin-Yun Chang(WEB) / Maiko Watanabe / Kyoko Kawaguchi Design Team Graphic Designers Kenji Ishida / Chew Yan Qiao / Sean Zerrudo Photographers Keiji Okazaki Kenji Sugasawa / Noboru Hanamura Sales & Marketing Naoki Kiyota / Yuri Nakazawa / Chihiro Tamura Special thanks City of Yokohama Tourism Promotion Division, Culture and Tourism Bureau

- Around Tokyo in 180 Minutes - Asakusa and Kagurazaka/Kudanshita

広告･記事に関するお問い合わせは

SHORT TRIP FROM TOKYO - Misaki Port & Jogashima

〒150-0002 東京都渋谷区渋谷2-3-8 倉島渋谷ビル401号

Explore the Unique Variety of Niigata

~The Sea of Japan, Savory Food Culture and Nature~

From Editors

Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) / 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com

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Autumn 2019

Rugby World Cup 2019 Japan’s "It isn't something to enjoy every four years, but 'Once in a lifetime!" – is the oﬃcial catchphrase – and, with this in mind, a truly “Once in a lifetime!” kind of event keeps us all in Tokyo anticipating. What is more, we are thrilled to welcome all those coming to Japan!

-Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki 4年に一度じゃない。一生に一度だ。これは、ラグビーワールドカップ2019日本大会の公式キャッチコピーです。東京に住む私たちの目の前で繰り広げられる「一生に一度」の一大イベントに、興奮を抑えきれません。多くの人たちがこの大会を観戦に訪れてくれることに、ワクワクしているのです。この号は、特に、観戦に訪れた多くのラグビーファンの方のために編集をしました。このラグビーのために来日された人たちが滞在を通して、一つでも東京の、日本のモノやコトに、興味を持っていただけたら、という想いを込めて。来年は東京2020オリンピック・パラリンピック競技大会が開催されます。ぜひ、また皆さんが、東京を訪れてくれることを心からお待ちしています。

This issue, we invite Rugby enthusiasts to “take a glimpse and be part of the Rugby World Cup," and seek something that piques their interest whether it be in Tokyo, or, throughout Japan. To add, Olympic and Paralympic Games Tokyo 2020 shall commence next year; we eagerly invite everyone to Tokyo and be part of this!

Tokyo Edition

Singapore - Malaysia - L.A - Taiwan - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong - Indonesia - Mexico - Australia

FREE Summer 2019 VOL.32

Your guide to the best of Tokyo

Culture Special

Mysterious Tokyo Bordering the supernatural world

Area Special

From Edo Castle to the Imperial Palace

– The History of the Heart of Tokyo

Another 3hr Trip Around Tokyo in 180 Minutes SHORT TRIP FROM TOKYO

Endless Fun in Yokohama

Love Japan? Follow

WAttention

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TOKYO H T NEWS Bringing you the latest hot news Autumn 2019

COREDO Muromachi Terrace: a place that sparks innovation Forming part of the Nihonbashi revitalization plan, the Nihonbashi Muromachi Mitsui Tower is a large scale building complex for commercial and oﬃce purposes. Besides the welcoming outdoor plaza space at street level, COREDO Muromachi Terrace, which is slated for opening on September 27, is the most anticipated shopping facility. Its businesses will include selected stores and restaurants from all over Japan as well as Taiwan. Besides a bookstore, Taiwan’s Eslite Spectrum is expected to introduce a variety of brand shops promoting creative living in the heart of Edo culture. There’s plenty to see here and a visit is bound to be an unforgettable experience.

Flagship Oﬃcial Rugby World Cup 2019 Megastore set to open in Shinjuku

Sophisticated Japanese cuisine to please the most demanding palate CRAFT is a sister restaurant to SHARI The Tokyo Sushi Bar, a popular Japanese restaurant in Ginza. Opened on August 1 and located near Tokyo Big Sight, the restaurant serves meticulously prepared items, hence the name CRAFT. Enjoy their classic roll sushi as well as a variety of creative, mouthwatering dishes made by cooks who trained at well-established Japanese restaurants. Prepare to embark on an adventure of the culinary kind! CRAFT JAPANESE CREATIVE CUISINE by BROTH DINING craft-cuisine.jp (Japanese)

Shinjuku Odakyu Park is set to take over the site of the demolished Shinjuku Subaru Building in front of Shinjuku Station’s West Exit. From August 22 to November 20, the park will be home to the flagship official Rugby World Cup 2019 Megastore, paying homage to the Rugby World Cup 2019, which will be held in twelve cities throughout Japan between September 20 and November 2. Get your hands on the hottest items representing the twenty participating countries and see the iconic Webb Ellis Cup with your own eyes.

Indulge in soba noodles and kappo cuisine while taking in Tokyo’s cityscape

The Blossom Hibiya, a new lodging in the Shimbashi area, offers a creative fusion of East and West. Along with comfortable guest rooms, the Japanese restaurant Sotoroku on the 18th ﬂoor is also worth checking out. Enjoy their handmade soba noodles, or exquisite Japanese dishes from Takaraya, an old kappo restaurant in Chiba prefecture with 120 years of history, while taking in a panoramic view of downtown Tokyo. SOTOROKU stillfoods.com/1016/ (Japanese)

A new museum to open on the premises of Meiji Jingu Shrine on October 26 To celebrate 100 years since the founding of Meiji Jingu Shrine, a museum is newly built near the shrine that blends immaculately into the surrounding green, lush landscape. Designed by the renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the landmark museum will showcase treasures associated with Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. A trip here will refresh your historical knowledge and give you another view of Japan. Meiji Jingu www.meijijingu.or.jp/english/index.html

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WTT33 hot news WAttention Tokyo |

Sports Special

Exciting Huge Sports Events are Brewing in Tokyo The History of Rugby in Tokyo On September 20th, under the floodlights at Tokyo's Ajinomoto Stadium in Chofu, Japan and Russia will compete in the inaugural match of the Rugby World Cup 2019. To some, Japan may seem like an unusual choice for Rugby World Cup host, however, evidence suggests the sport took root here as far back as 1866, making it one of the world's oldest rugby nations. Before the world competition, let us have a look back at its history. During the 1860’s Yokohama was a sleepy fishing village with very few foreigners populating the area. The rugby club that was established there in 1866, called Yokohama Foot Ball Club, was created by a British Battalion who were stationed on the bluff above the village. News of this was uncovered as a result of investigative journalists patching together newspaper clippings and illustrations over 140 years later! As such, the history of rugby in Japan is murky and openly contested. One thing we do have a clearer image of is the (currently accepted) initial appearance of rugby in Tokyo. For that, the honor goes to goes to the Cambridge-educated, Japanese native, Ginnosuke Tanaka and his friend, Edward Bramwell Clarke, who collaboratively introduced rugby to students of Tokyo’s Keiogijiku (Keio University) in 1899. Tanaka met Clarke, who was also born in Japan, when they were students and fellow rugby players in Cambridge, England. They both returned to Japan in 1899 to take up teaching positions at Keio University in Tokyo’s Minato Ward. Though participation numbers were initially low and progress was equally labored, the University rugby team had its first official match on January 5th 1901 against a group of expatriates in Yokohama. From this point on the influence of rugby started to metastasize throughout the country, and by the 1920’s Japan had more than 1,500 official clubs and 60,000 registered players. Rugby in Japan 1874 04

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Japan Team (Pool A)

Russia Team (Pool A)

Australia Team (Pool D)

WAttention Tokyo |

Sports Special

Making the Most out of Tokyo During the Rugby World Cup Of all the wards—sometimes referred to as “cities”—in greater Tokyo, Chofu seems an unlikely candidate to be at the centre of international attention. However, Chofu’s Ajinomoto Stadium is the capital’s standard bearer for the duration of the Rugby World Cup and the city has been designated as one of the World Cup’s 16 FanZone locations. Additionally, it is of great access to the popular downtown with rugby bars.

Chofu’s location, if nothing else, gives an insight to the sheer size and scale of Tokyo; it lies in the typically relaxed western suburbs around 12 miles away from the popular downtown tourist magnets of Shibuya and Shinjuku (though Chofu can be reached from Shinjuku by express train in under 20 minutes). Chofu is known among locals as the home to the FC Tokyo and Tokyo Verdy soccer teams, who play at Ajinomoto Stadium, as well as for its stunning Jindai Botanical Gardens and the accompanying Jindaiji Temple. Outside of Japan, Chofu has existed in relative anonymity to date, yet it will be a hive of the frenetic World Cup activity this autumn, and not just when games are being played at the stadium. For watching games, the FanZones and rugby bars are also recommended.

Rugby Bars in Tokyo

Bar The Fifteen’s

Bar The Fifteen’s, named in honor of the sport, describes itself as “one of the leading rugby-themed bars in Tokyo”. Located in Minato Ward’s Shiba Park Hotel and decorated in international rugby memorabilia, including elaborate statuettes and signed rugby balls. The mahogany interior, plush leather seats and ambient lighting have been a fan favorite among enthusiasts and the pros alike; they proudly hosted the New Zealand rugby team on a previous tour of the country. Just bear in mind that the focus at Bar The Fifteen’s is on experiencing the rich history of rugby, as opposed to watching live World Cup games.

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For the traditionalists out there, a good old-fashioned rugby bar may tickle your fancy. On that front, there are a few go-to options in the city.

No Side Club

If you want to watch the World Cup in a traditional, raucous pub environment, No Side Club in Takadanobaba should be your ﬁrst port of call. At one stop from Shinjuku on the JR Yamanote train line, this bar is right in the thick of it. It’s kitted out with large screens and has a slew of international beers and ales on oﬀer. On top of that, the frequent customers at No Side Club tend to be rugby fans, so it’s a great place to mingle with some fellow lovers of the game.

Sports Bar C

Sports Bar C in Roppongi also lies toward the “classic sports bar” end of the pub spectrum. Its cramped, cozy confines are dressed in sports paraphernalia, TV screens and glass bottles filled with vintage spirts and exotic liqueurs. Beer and cocktails are the top sellers along with their pub grub menu (featuring fish and chips). With a relatively small maximum capacity, space in here will be a hot commodity during the World Cup. But if you can snag a stool during one of the tournament’s marquee games, buckle up and enjoy the ride!

The Final Match is held in the Nissan Stadium

BEERTERIA PRONTO FUCHU

Fuchu is also the city in the western part of Tokyo and regarded as the hometown of two major Japanese rugby teams. Therefore, People in Fuchu love for the sport. In order to support the Rugby World Cup, the 183 FUCHU FAN ZONE with BEERTERIA PRONTO was opened to celebrate with rugby lovers. People can enjoy drink here while cheering on their favorite teams.

Rugby World Cup Fanzones

Oﬃcial Fanzone: RWC2015

The Fanzones at the Rugby World Cup are huge public screening areas, kitted out with local food and drink, merchandise stores and rugby-themed games and activities. In the absence of tickets, Fanzones are the number one venue to watch the World Cup; think of them as mini festivals of rugby where you can watch every single game live on cinema-sized screens in the company of thousands of fellow spectators. 16 Fanzones will appear across Japan, with two locations in Tokyo: Chofu and Yurakucho. Entry to the Fanzones is free of charge and they are open for business on every match day through the tournament.

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Byline: David McElhinney

WTT33 Sports WAttention Tokyo |

Sports Special

Start your day off right with the Imperial Palace Run From professional athletes to casual sports enthusiasts, people love jogging around the Imperial Palace. The path around the palace is regarded by joggers as the place to run and is known as kokyo-ran, or the “Imperial Palace Run.” The Imperial Palace was originally the castle of the Tokugawa Shogunate during the Edo period, which then placed a moat around the castle. The 5km path along the moat is not broken up by any stoplights, making it a great place for joggers to run without interruptions. What really makes the Imperial Palace Run so remarkable is all the wonderful sights you can see. There is greenery, the modern architecture of the city, historical buildings, and famous landmarks; such as the Kokyogaien National Gardens, the Nippon Budokan, The National Theatre, the National Diet Building, Sakuradamon, and the business district stretching from Yurakucho to Marunouchi leading to the Tokyo Station Marunouchi Station Building. Must-see places in Tokyo are everywhere you look, and then there is the area around the moat as well.

Many people jog before work

Sakuradamon Gate

Another great aspect of the Imperial Palace Run is the ransute, or “running stations.” Running stations are facilities found throughout the path offering a wide range of services, such as showers, lockers, and rentals for jogging wear and running shoes. You can just show up and still find everything you need for a good jog. For example, just a 3-minute walk from the Hanzomon Station is the “JOGLIS” running station. With a spot right in front of the Imperial Palace, it boasts the largest number of lockers and showers of any station, with plenty of supplies and gear for rent. There is even a cafe space to relax in after you finish exercising. This makes JOGLIS the perfect facility for tourists to use when enjoying the Imperial Palace Run.

OMOTENASHI Runner Association https://visit-chiyoda.com/tag/omotenashi-runner-association/ Chiyoda City Tourism Association https://visit-chiyoda.com/ JOGLIS running station https://www.joglis.jp/

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JOGLIS

Going for a lap on the Imperial Palace Run when you visit Tokyo is a great way to enjoy the city, just make sure you follow this one rule – all joggers should run counter-clockwise along the path. It is also good to keep in mind that the path around the palace is not a designated jogging course. Its primary function is for walking, with weekends being crowded with locals and tourists, so be courteous to others as you get your workout.

Unveiling the New National Stadium for TOKYO 2020 On November 2019, construction of the New National Stadium will be complete. This will be the main stadium for the Olympic and Paralympic Games Tokyo 2020, holding the opening and closing ceremonies and matches for events like Track & Field. With innovative designs from the renowned architect Kengo Kuma, the former stadium is being rebuilt to host Tokyo’s second Summer Olympics Games. The New National Stadium has been generating buzz over its audacious wooden construction, using wood from all over Japan. Like viewing temples, shrines, or other Japanese wooden architecture, the stadium conjures up a sense of calm and balance with its surroundings. Inside the stadium, the visual theme for the seating area is “rays of sunlight trickling down through the leaves of a forest,” with a gradation of five earthy colors. To reduce construction costs, there will be no air conditioning for the seating areas, but large-scale eaves will be installed above to shade and draw in wind to cool audiences.

The circumference of the moat of the Imperial Palace

Nippon Budokan National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo

Chiyoda City Tourist Information

Imperial Palace Running Tour

Chidorigafuchi Hanzomon St.

The New Japan National Stadium AD_OMOTENASHI_RUNNING_TKY33.pdf 1 2019/08/14 Scheduled for completion in November 2019. Site16:30:38 Area: Approx. 113,000m2, Building Area: Approx. 72,400m2, Total Floor Area: Approx. 194,000m2, Height: Approx. 47.4m

Imperial Palace

JOGLIS

TokyoCM St. MY

National Theatre

Sakuradamon Gate

OMOTENASHI runners will guide you on the Imperial Palace running tour!

CMY

National Diet Building

OMOTENASHI Runner Associa�on www.kokyorun-navi.com

+813-3222-5543

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Culture Special

FLOURISHING JAPANESE THEATER

Shibai Kyogen Uki-e

THE THEATER SCENE IN THE EDO PERIOD In the world of the Japanese theater, Nohgaku (Noh and Kyogen), Kabuki, and Bunraku have each been recognized by UNESCO as a World Intangible Cultural Heritage. To discover how these beloved forms of Japanese theater originated and rose to fame during the Edo period, WAttention met with Professor Ryuichi Kodama of the Faculty of Letters, Arts and Sciences at Waseda University and Vice Director of the Tsubouchi Memorial Theatre Museum. Professor Kodama is an expert in the fields of Theater Studies and History of Performing Arts, with extensive knowledge of Kabuki theater. This article is based on our conversation. Nohgaku (Noh and Kyogen) was developed from the Muromachi period (1333-1573). Noh was a spiritual drama that used masks and focused on phantasmal or mythical themes. Kyogen, the comical interlude to Noh, on the other hand, did not use masks in most cases and was intended to arouse laughter in plays depicting more contemporary settings. Professor Kodama explained that “the word Kabuki, which literally translates into the words “song,” “dance,” and “skill,” first appeared in literature in 1603 when the Edo Shogunate was established. Style of Bunraku (ningyo joruri), which comes from a long history of puppets and narratives performed with music from the shamisen (a three-stringed traditional Japanese musical instrument), were also found in the 1600s. This proves that Bunraku and Kabuki originated in the Edo period (1603-1868).” 10

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During the Muromachi period, Nohgaku was generally popular among the commoners; however, it was Noh that grew to be the samurai’s source of ceremonial entertainment with the arrival of the Edo period. To adopt the samurai experience, it was common for the wealthy townsfolk’s sons to learn Noh. Although, unlike today, Noh during those times did not charge admission fees. It was a special performance held for warriors at places such as the Edo Castle, a daimyo’s (warlord) residence. On certain occasions, ordinary people were welcome to see Noh, which was called “Machi-iri Noh,” but since it was usually harder for commoners to see Noh performances, the more accessible Bunraku and Kabuki became the favorites of the lower classes. Professor Kodama added, “Different kinds of theater from different eras coexisted with one another, accumulating as time progressed – this is what makes Japanese theater history so fascinating.” Kabuki was at the heart of the flourishing Japanese theater in the Edo period. Audiences loved the elegant costumes, make-up, spectacular backdrop scene paintings, and sets. However, it was the actors’ stunningly detailed performances and stage techniques such as mawari-butai (the revolving stage developed in the mid-1700s), seri (the rising and lowering of sections of the stage used since the mid-1700s), and hayagawari (lightening-fast costume changes) which drove audiences mad with excitement.

FROM EDO TO THE MODERN ERA

Nandaimon Aki no Higan

Amazingly, these spectacles are still seen today, which contributes to the incredible popularity of Kabuki. Today’s classic plays were written predominantly during the Edo period. They were considered new works back then, but as they were continually performed over the years, they became the classics that are revered now. Many scripts for Kabuki were written with a particular actor in mind. Actors during the Edo period were extremely popular with commoners, so much so that ukiyo-e woodblock prints of them became sought after Edo souvenirs. Famous Kabuki actors were paid very well too. With the incredible popularity of Kabuki and its actors, tickets could be expensive since, just as now, the audience could watch one play for an entire day while enjoying o-bento (lunch boxes) available between intermissions. Kabuki today is most similar to the kind of theater performed in the mid to the late Edo period.

Onko-higashi no Hana

In those days, theaters existed in every city in Japan, with the largest ones being in Edo and Osaka. In rural areas, amateur actors and farmers set up playhouses in small towns to perform noson kabuki (rural Kabuki). Sometimes, even the townsmen would call professionals to perform in their shrines and temples. Kabuki had spread enormously throughout Japan during the Edo period. Bunraku plays were also loved by the Edo commoners, whose narrative recitation style gidayu-bushi, a kind of song-like storytelling, was delivered by the tayu narrator, accompanied by the shamisen player and the ningyo tsukai puppeteer. The masterpieces of acclaimed dramatist Chikamatsu Monzaemon (1653-1724) are still performed today. Unlike Kabuki scripts, Bunraku scripts were published. They were incredibly popular and widely read. The stories of Bunraku became so wellknown among the people that Professor Kodama claims, “It may be no exaggeration to say that Japanese full-length plays were born from Bunraku...”

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WTT33 Theater

Kobotoke Kohei Futayaku Onoe Kikugoro For All Images © The Tsubouchi Memorial Theatre Museum, Waseda University WAttention Tokyo |

Culture Special

THE MODERN THEATER Nohgaku, Kabuki, and Bunraku embellished the Edo theater scene, and they continue to fascinate audiences to this day. However, how shows are performed and how audiences experience them have undergone many changes since Edo period. According to Professor Kodama, electricity played a major role in the evolution of Kabuki. Without electricity, it had been impossible to light the stage perfectly in time with stage cues, like an actor clapping his hands. When the stage needed to be lit, the stagehands behind the set would have to hurry to raise the window shutters all at once. With an electrical lighting system in the theater, it became much easier to adjust the lighting and perform various effects. This changed the theater atmosphere completely. Every year, more novel and diverse motifs are being fused with Kabuki theater. For instance, the international manga sensation “One Piece” premiered as a Kabuki play with the performance “Super Kabuki II: One Piece” in 2015. It blended traditional Kabuki acting with prerecorded modern music and advanced set pieces. This year another beloved manga/animation will grace the Kabuki stage. In December, a play based on the world-acclaimed animation director Hayao Miyazaki’s “Kaze no Tani no Nausicaä” (“Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind”) will begin running. Western ideas have also started to appear in the world of Kabuki. In 2009, the performance of Sistine Kabuki debuted at the Otsuka Museum of Art in Tokushima staged under a replica of Michelangelo’s painting on the Sistine Chapel ceiling. Japanese theater is boundless in its expression, channeling forms of popular culture found in film, comics, and social media. Even for many English speakers who have now been gracing the

National Noh Theatre 4-18-1, Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

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Kabuki theater in huge numbers, the attraction to Kabuki is the drama itself. In 1975 English earphone-guides were introduced, and in 1982 came English play guides and English subtitles; but in Professor Kodama’s opinion, those aids might be distracting during a performance. He feels that reading plots written in English on flyers or websites in advance and focusing on the stage makes understanding it better. Takigi Noh, a type of Noh performed outdoors at night lit by large torches, created a completely different theater experience than traditional indoor viewings. It was first played at Kokufu-ji Temple in Nara during the Edo period, and gradually touched venues in Tokyo and other parts of Japan after the war. It has become very alluring for people who may be less interested in Noh itself but are drawn to its absolute beauty and charm. This autumn, Takigi Noh performances will be held at Zojo-ji Temple, Shinjuku Gyoen, Meiji Jingu shrine and many more venues throughout Tokyo. In Bunraku, performances began getting innovative and have been presenting three puppeteers from mid-80s, as opposed to a single puppeteer in early days. The Sugimoto-Bunraku production emerged with avant-garde technology, such as video installation, and revived Japanese classics with a modern approach. However, many masterpieces of Chikamatsu Monzaemon, such as the Bunraku classic ”Sonezaki Shinju” (“Love Suicides at Sonezaki”), have been perpetually loved for over 300 years and continue to be performed in various forms. “Discover NOH & KYOGEN,” Noh Performance for the Audience from Abroad will be held on 31 October at the National Noh Theatre. For more details: www.ntj.jac.go.jp/schedule/nou/2019/discover-noh-kyogen3. html?lan=e

Kabukiza Theatre 4-12-15, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

National Theatre 4-1, Hayabusa-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo

HERE ARE SOME POPULAR JAPANESE ORIGINAL PRODUCTIONS Currently, Tokyo presents an extensive variety of stunning theater performances, incomparable to any other in the world.

THE SPLENDOR OF TAKARAZUKA

image photo of Takarazuka Revue ©Takarazuka Revue Company

Perhaps, one of the most remarkable developments in modern Japanese theater is the more than century long running Takarazuka Revue. It was founded by Ichizo Kobayashi, the illustrious industrialist behind the Hankyu Railway and Hankyu Department Store, and Toho Co. Ltd. The family-friendly performances feature an all-female cast trained in song, dance, and acting that abides by the motto “kiyoku (modesty), tadashiku (fairness), utsukushiku (grace).” Takarazuka actresses are known as takarasienne, and through their performances, Mr. Kobayashi wished to instill in them an understanding of proper etiquette and dignity as women and as members of society. And because of how graceful and dignified the actresses carry themselves, fans are well-known for taking on their courteous manners. The Takarazuka Revue consists of the five troupes Flower, Moon, Snow, Star, and Cosmos; each illustrating particular themes, with mesmerizing costumes and brilliant stage sets. The Tokyo Takarazuka Theater in Tokyo serves as a special venue where performances are always showing.

Tokyo Takarazuka Theater

THE 2.5-DIMENSIONAL MUSICAL The “2.5-Dimensional Musical” is a new theater concept bringing the world of popular 2D Japanese manga, animation, and video games to a 3D stage. The musical’s selling points are the actors’ performances, which make them appear “live” in the 2D world through persuasive make-up and voice techniques, and the overall production that recreates the fictional world in a 3D space. The spectacle’s high-tech visual effects and exquisite theatrical skills leave audiences blown away by how their favorite characters appear so anthropomorphic. Supported mostly by a young audience, the 2.5-Dimensional Musical presents an astoundingly increasing number of new productions every year, with a total audience size of approximately 2.8 million in 2018.

Live Spectacle NARUTO ~Song of the Akatsuki~ ©KM, S/S/LSN2019

ALTERNATIVE THEATRE EXTRAVAGANZA In 2017, a new type of “nonverbal” entertainment graced modern Japanese theater in the form of powerful drum choreography and digital technology called “Mangekyo.” The performance is composed of the energetic DRUM TAO taiko drum ensemble that has performed in over 500 cities in 26 countries worldwide. The ensemble uses huge drums called wadaiko, which are specially made of hollow logs with the ends capped in cowhide. The vibrating sounds synchronize with visual digital effects, such as projection mapping produced by teamLab. The revolutionary production also combines other traditional instruments, such as the flute and koto, and are enhanced with vivacious dance scenes. Performances can be viewed at the Alternative Theatre in Yurakucho.

KABUKI “REN-G” GOES TO THE RUGBY WORLD CUP 2019

Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon -SHINING MOON TOKYO-

The Rugby World Cup 2019 is coming to Japan on September 20, marking the first time the tournament is held in Asia. Another first for the tournament is its Kabuki-themed mascots – a pair of charming shishi lions with rugby ball-shaped heads named Ren-G. The father Ren (with the white mane) and the son G (with the red mane) are taken from the famous Kabuki lyrical dance, Renjishi.

The world’s first “Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon” show restaurant opens in Azabujuban. For more details: sailormoon-shiningmoontokyo.com/en/

Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon -SHINING MOON TOKYO©Naoko Takeuchi

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Culture Special

RISE OF NEW TOKYO THEATERS A new urban entertainment scene is about to spring up in Tokyo’s Toshima-ku (ward). From November this year to July 2020, around 22 projects will be launched to commemorate the project “East Asian Cultural City 2019 Toshima.” Eight amazing theaters surrounding the Naka Ikebukuro Park are scheduled to be constructed on the new “Hareza Ikebukuro” commercial complex. In addition to those venues will be the ultra-futuristic theater “harevutai” operated by Pony Canyon. The “v” in harevutai’s logo stands for “visual,” “voice,” “virtual reality,” “variety,” and “vivid,” and with the slogan “Bringing you the happiest stage ever,” it promises to offer the latest cutting-edge technology in live theater equipment, such as VR (virtual reality), 3D holograms, and the permanent installation of a translucent screen. The 270-inch stage screen will use a 10,000 lunar module laser light source projector that can also project 4K video.

In another location in the heart of Tokyo, Shibuya will also be boasting of a grand revamp of its theater to reopen on the 8th floor of Shibuya PARCO in March 2020. Formerly Seibu Theater when it first opened in 1973, the new PARCO Theater will increase the number of seats from 458 to 636 in an enormously expanded stage space. A lineup of performances is already waiting – the opening performance from late January to February 2020, “Shinosuke Rakugo in PARCO 2020,” “Love Letters,” and more. The theater will be essential in setting the worldwide appeal of Shibuya as one of the most frequented tourist destinations in Tokyo.

THE TSUBOUCHII MEMORIAL THEATRE MUSEUM, WASEDA UNIVERSITY The Tsubouchi Memorial Theatre Museum of Waseda University, known affectionately as “Enpaku,” is Asia’s only museum dedicated solely to the theater. It was established in 1928 to honor Tsubouchi Shoyo, a writer and dramatist who contributed to the development of contemporary Japanese theater by completing translations of the entire works of Shakespeare. Located on the main campus of Waseda University, it boasts of a vast collection of approximately one million items: 48,000 Nishiki-e (Japanese multicolored woodblock prints), 400,000 stage photographs, 270,000 books, 80,000 theater program brochures, flyers, audiovisual materials and other memorabilia, including 159,000 theater treasures, such as costumes, dolls, puppets, letters and manuscripts, and other valuable books. For information on the visiting hours, please check the official site www.waseda.jp/enpaku/en/

Bunraku Puppet-”Osome” 14

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”Agemaki no Sukeroku”

©The Tsubouchi Memorial Theatre Museum, Waseda University

The book “Enpaku’s Treasure Box of Kabuki and Bunraku” (available in Japanese and English) is highly recommended for first-time enthusiasts of Kabuki and Bunraku. It can be purchased in the theater museum or online (Japanese only). For more information: KINOKUNIYA WEB STORE www.kinokuniya.co.jp/f/dsg-11-0222280004329

Exhibition Room in 2018

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Transcendence in Tokyo: Art, Reality and teamLab Tokyo is a bustling city of art, and home to a landscape and culture that has inspired artists for centuries. While many artists draw inspiration from Tokyo and its history, no art experience is quite as timeless and transcendent as that of teamLab Borderless.

Memory of Topography © teamLab

teamLab has been dazzling art lovers for years, and their permanent e xhibi tion, “ MOR I Building DIGI TA L A R T MUSEUM: teamL ab Borderless,” in Odaiba is no exception. Occupying a massive 10,000m2 space, teamLab Borderless brings a brand new, yet strangely familiar, experience to Tokyo’s art scene. In an interview with WAttention, the ultratechnologists at teamLab discussed how teamLab Borderless is the accumulation of their goals and eﬀorts. Since their inception in 2001, teamLab has been working towards exploring a new relationship between humans and nature, and between oneself and the world through art – a feat they have achieved through creating relationships between people and art. These relationships are possible thanks to the core concepts behind teamLab’s art installations. One such concept, “Ultrasubjective Space,” is space adaptability: creating spaces that can be manipulated to give the viewer more freedom and a more direct viewing experience. For those of you now wondering how this makes for a more real art experience, teamLab explained it to us. As human beings, we move around our world freely, interact with others and acknowledge the world with our bodies. Our bodies are also aware of the passage of time, during which different thoughts pass through our brains and intertwine with each other. Essentially, the human experience is fluid and borderless; everything moves and changes, and there are no physical walls controlling our bodies and minds. This is what teamLab Borderless is all about. At a regular art exhibition, visitors follow a set path, and can only look at art from predetermined angles in predetermined spots. At teamLab Borderless, there is no predetermined path, the art moves and changes over time, and visitors can interact with and inﬂuence the surroundings. By having the exhibition space mirror the human experience, teamLab is blurring the lines between art and reality, allowing visitors to explore and build relationships with the art itself.

Born From the Darkness a Loving, and Beautiful World © teamLab

Visitors have a surprising range of reactions to teamLab’s borderless world, which can most likely be attributed to the fact that the art is inﬂuenced, and in a sense co-created, by every individual in the room. This once again blurs the line, as – much like in the real world – other people will always influence our lives. This idea of co-creation also forms relationships between visitors as they enjoy the art. Innovative and somewhat enlightening, teamLab Borderless is a must for travelers to Tokyo, and is an experience you’ll walk away from wanting to visit again, just to see what else you can ﬁnd and create inside its ever-changing world.

MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: teamLab Borderless Address: Odaiba Palette Town 2F, 1-3-8 Aomi, Koto-ku, Tokyo, Japan Hours: Weekdays 10pm-7pm Sun, Sat & Holiday 10pm-9pm Closed: 2nd & 4th Tuesdays, June 22, 2019 Website: borderless.teamlab.art WTT33 teamLab WAttention Tokyo |

Where Edo M e e t s To k y o

ucked away amongst the skyscrapers of Nihonbashi and hidden below the Fukutoku Shrine, the coolest new way to travel back in time awaits. Suigian is an innovative new player in the Japanese culture tourism scene that invites you to venture down its shining staircase and discover Old Tokyo, or as it was known back then, Edo.

from the prestigious schools of these ar t forms. Guests can enjoy these per formances while having a meal and a drink or two in a stylish modern lounge space, making Suigian a modern and innovative way to experience traditional Japanese culture.

Hanayagiryu Hanayagi KIeayaka

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reated with the goal of of fering travelers a fresh taste of traditional Japanese culture during the 2019 Rugby World Cup and the Tokyo 2020 Games, Suigian is Japan’s first theater lounge; a cultural experience that aims to give visitors an authentic evening of t he Japanese per for ming ar t s , alongside the modern comforts of a bar and restaurant. At Suigian, guests can experience traditional Noh plays, comedic Kyogen plays and Japanese dance, all performed by professionals

Kanzeryu “Atsumori” Takeda Fumiyuki

Okuraryu Okura Yataro, Shigeyama Chuzaburo

Lounge,” a tribute to the legendar y restaurant that was the center of Nihonbashi hospit alit y culture throughout the Edo and Meiji periods. The Momokawa lounge offers a slower rhythm than its daytime counterpart, with geinagon performers soothing the room with dance, song and shamisen music, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of Edo-era restaurant-inns.

Brimming with such rich history and

Konparuryu “Hagoromo” Konparu Norikazu

and cultural signif icance to the N i h o n b a s h i a r e a a n d To k y o , a n impressive feat for a new establishment in this modern era.

Owner of Suigian, Hidetomo Kimura,

in an interview with WAttention, said that Suigian aims to give travelers a place to “encounter the real Japan,” one f re e of “ temp orar y change s ” such as replicas and reimaginings that show the ever-changing nature of Japanese culture. Kimura has undoubtedly achieved this by allowing guests to literally come in contac t with real history. From the tableware to the décor, ever y par t of Suigian has a long his torical back ground. Essentially, you can watch a play by per for mer s f rom famous t heater schools founded over 500 years ago, drink out of an antique teacup that was highly likely used by 19th century luminaries such as Sakamoto Ryoma (1835-1867, one of the key figures in Japan’s modernization), and stretch your feet out on a rug woven by the Yoshijima family, the last artisans of the nabeshima dantsu rugs adored by many lords during the Edo period. In other words, every aspect of Suigian was carefully chosen for its historical

Suigian hosts up to three performances

a day, and pre-show synopses are available in English upon request in advance. Af ter each per formance, actors of ten stick around and chat with patrons to discuss and answer any questions they may have on the per formance or traditional theater in general. By night, Suigian draws inspira t ion f rom i t s lo c a t ion an d transforms into the “Momokawa

innovation, Suigian is best described as a “past-in-present ” experience, and is set to be the hottest new way to experience traditional Japanese culture in Tokyo. After all, what better way is there to experience “real Japan” than to travel back in time to Edo for a few hours?

SU IGI A N A 1-minute walk from Exit A6 of Mitsukoshimae Station on the Ginza Line and Hanzomon Line of the Tokyo Metro. Direct access from Coredo Muromachi 2 via underground walkway B1F, 2-5-10, Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan Hours: 11:00 to 23:30 (Last order 23:00) The Momokawa Lounge does not operate on Sundays or national holidays. Please check the detail opening hour on the schedule

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3A S A K U S A 浅草 HR ANOTHER

TRIP

Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

浅草文化観光センター

Situated in Asakusa, Sensoji is an

Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center

attraction that paints a perfect

A tourist information center located inside a unique building in front of the Asakusa Kaminarimon Gate. The building is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of the bestknown Japanese architects. The ceiling and the interior are quite interesting so don’t even consider skipping it. The night view of Asakusa from the observatory on the 8 th ﬂoor’s terrace is also highly recommended.

picture of what the bustling streets of Tokyo’s old town area were like during the Edo period. Chonin, a class of townsmen including merchants, craftsmen, and artisans who emerged during this time, are still very active today and play an inﬂuential role in local businesses. Aside from Tokyo’s kitchenware capital Kappa-bashi and other shopping streets, there are also several historic gourmet destinations to keep you occupied.

浅草たつみや

Asakusa Tatsumiya With an 80-year history, the kimono shop Asakusa Tatsumiya never fails to keep up with the latest trends. Its third generation owner has been incorporating Japanese kimono sashes into tumblers, cushions, centerpiece, and a wide range of goods. With these ingenious souvenirs, you can easily bring home the beauty of a kimono. Do drop in if you are looking for something unique and authentic!

和えん亭吉幸

Waentei-Kikko Located in the vicinity of Sensoji, Waentei-Kikko is a haven where you can enjoy traditional Japanese haute cuisine. Lovers of music, prepared to be charmed by the owner’s live Tsugarushamisen (a three-string instrument) performance, which always adds a touch of magic to the atmosphere. Experience authentic Japanese hospitality and culture right here.

浅草寺

Sensoji Temple Sensoji is a temple with 1,400 years of history and a must-visit for any traveler to Tokyo. The symbolic Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) leading to the temple appeared about 1,000 years ago when it was built along with other major structures in the complex. While here, don’t forget to stroll down the 200-meter thriving shopping street, Nakamise, for an adventure of food and culture.

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Asakusa Rokku Street

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茶御飯東京

CHAGOHAN TOKYO No one would disagree that Japanese cuisine is among the best in the world. Chagohan is now oﬀering spectacular cooking courses for those interested in learning the secrets to making delicious classic Japanese dishes, such as sushi, sukiyaki, katsudon, and more. You can also sign up for vegetarian courses, sake tasting classes, and tea ceremony sessions to gain a deeper insight into Japanese dining. かまた刃研社伝法院通り

Denbouin-dori With a plethora of retro shops selling crafts and accessories, Denbouin-dori is a great place to experience the culture and atmosphere of Edo. Not only are the shutters decorated with Edo-style paintings, but also shop roofs all have traditional Japanese tiles and the wooden billboards are written AD_3HRS_KAMATA_TKY31.pdf 1 2019/02/06 15:38:31 in Japanese calligraphy. Denbouin-dori will surely satisfy the cultural curiosity of tourists.

KAMATA HAKENSHA Kamata Hakensha has been serving the neighborhood for over 90 years and has earned a reputation for selling quality Japanese knives and being able to breathe life back into any knife. While many tourists come with a mission to ﬁnd the right knife for themselves or friends, others come to have their old knives maintained. As the saying goes, to do a good job, one must ﬁrst sharpen one’s tools. Find out the criteria for a good knife from the knife masters at Kamata Hakensha.

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3KAGURAZAKA HR ANOTHER

TRIP

神楽坂

Around Tokyo in 180 minutes

九段下 KUDANSHITA

Although Kagurazaka is close to Tokyo’s entertainment district, Shinjuku, it has a character all of its own. As a prominent hanamachi (geisha district) that thrived from the Edo Period (1603-1868) to the Showa Period (1926-1989), Kagurazaka is wellknown for its reﬁned, nostalgic atmosphere. Venture inside the cobbled alleys and you will discover tons of historic geisha houses and sophisticated shops that embody the Japanese aesthetic sense and precise craftsmanship. We also recommend to take a walk to Kudanshita through Mejiro Dori from Kagurazaka-Iidabashi.

神楽坂茶寮本店

Kagurazaka Saryo Honten Tucked away in a quiet alley in the heart of Kaguarazaka, this retro cafe ﬁts perfectly into Kagurazaka’s nostalgic atmosphere. Built in a typical Japanese wooden machiya house, one is enveloped by the warmth and comfort created by its wooden decor as they step in. The shop serves a wide variety of Japanese sweets, with the matcha chocolate hot pot and tea-ﬂavored sundae being the most recommended menu items.

牛込見附・牛込橋

神楽坂清水

Ushigome Mitsuke & Ushigomebashi Bridge

Kagurazaka Shimizu If you’re looking for premium Japanese cuisine without a hefty price tag, Kagurazaka Shimizu is the place to go. Located close by Kagurazaka’s Geisha Shindo, this old geisha lodging now serves authentic kappo cuisine. Kappo, which literally means “to cut and to cook,” is a word for Japanese style multi-course meals. Embellished with nostalgic décor from the Taisho period (1912-1926), the restaurant makes you feel as if you’ve traveled back in time. The menu consists of carefully selected, fresh, seasonal ingredients that are amazingly delicious and pleasing to the eye. Soak in the vintage atmosphere as you enjoy every bite of the feast!

The traditional Japanese cuisine

Kagurazaka Shimizu Open 17:30 Close 23:00

5-37 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku,Tokyo, 162-0825, Japan

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81-03-5261-2002

info@kagurazaka-shimizu.jp

Sotobori Park ends at the West Exit of JR Iidabashi Station, but this marks the entrance into the Ushigome neighborhood. During the Edo period, Ushigome Mitsuke used to be one of the roads approaching the gate of the Edo Castle. For security reasons, guardhouses were set up to check on pedestrians crossing the Ushigomebashi Bridge. The other side of the bridge used to be a samurai residence area, can you imagine that?

外濠公園

Sotobori Park Sotobori is the remains of the outer moat of the Edo Castle. Commissioned by Iemitsu Tokugawa, the third shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty in 1636 as the ﬁnal construction of the castle. The historic moat is now transformed into a scenic park with a 2 km walking path between JR Yotsuya Station and JR Iidabashi Station. Known for its display of vivid shades of green all year round. A popular spot during the ﬂower viewing season that is not to be missed.

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Scan the QR code for more information about the featured places in Kagurazaka & Kudanshita.

Kudanshita Station L ine juk u Shin Toei t ro e M o Tok y mon L ine o Hanz

Experience the charm of Japan without leaving Tokyo by visiting antenna shops, shops created by prefectural governments to promote local food and crafts. Located in the vicinity of Kagurazaka, Aomori Hokusaikan is the place to sample Aomori’s mouth-watering delicacies and stock up on genuine handicrafts made by traditional artisans. As Aomori is Japan’s top apple-producing prefecture, you can also indulge in the mellow sweetness of 100% natural apple juice.

東京大神宮

Tokyo Daijingu Shrine Tokyo Daijingu Shrine was built in 1880 to worship Amaterasu, a deity related to the divine origin of the emperor, and other deities enshrined in the Ise Jingu Shrine. Tokyo Daijigu Shrine functions as a yohaiden, or hall for worship from afar in Japanese, for pilgrims who were not able to travel all the way to Ise Jingu Shrine in Mie Prefecture. As the shrine is the ﬁrst in Japan to hold a Shinto wedding ceremony, it is especially popular among women wishing to get married. 築土神社

Tsukudo Shrine Walk in the direction of Nigohanzaka from Tokyo Daijingu Shrine and you will come across a rare sight: a western architecture with a cross on it. Built in 1937 as the first seminary for Tokyo Lutheran Center Church, the building’s significance lies in that it is the only western chapel in Japan before World War II. From here, it might be a little bit difficult to spot Tsukudo Shrine, whose entrance is located next to a modern building called Kudan Airex Building. Tucked away from the bustles of the city, the shrine is as cozy as a secret garden. However, as the head of Taira-no-Masakado, a samurai who died in a battle in the Heian period (7941185), is enshrined here, the shrine has quite a few ghost stories to share.

H a n d m a de p i e c e s o f c u l t u r e , encapsu lating the spirit of wabi -sabi

Ja p a n e s e Po t t e ry Sh o p YOULUCK

This Japanese pottery shop features amazing handmade items ﬁred in traditional kilns, available especially in Kagurazaka, an area steeped in classic Japanese atmosphere. These ceramic souvenirs will be your best memories from Japan! 2F, 2-10 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 162-0825, Japan 81-(0)3-6228-1178 uluck.jp/en/ @kagurazakauluck

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1：Breathtaking view of Mt. Fuji from the port

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2：Umanose-Domon at Jogashima 3：View from the hiking trail 4：Maguro meal at Jogashima-Shibukitei 5：The facade of Misakikan Main Store 6：Cycling through fields 7：Open-Top bus 8：Urari Marche Sakanakan

Misaki Port & Jogashima : Home to Beautiful Nature, Sparkling Seas, and Delicious Maguro (tuna). Standing on top of a hill, I look down at the beach and glittering sea over a fence of wild flowers. The beautiful natural arch of Umanose-Domon is only a short hike away, and as I watch the boats sailing on the sea, I feel as though I’ve stepped back in time. This, and the mouthwatering tuna which can be found here, is the beauty of Misaki and nearby Jogashima. Misaki in Miura, Kanagawa, is a seaside town about one hour away from Tokyo, and famous for having one of the highest amount of maguro catches in Japan, which attracts many tourists. It’s so famous for it. Be sure to spot it when you visit Misaki Town. (maguro is the name of tuna meat, usually used in sushi or sashimi) As I stepped off the train with the Misaki Maguro Day Trip Ticket clutched firmly in my hand, I struggled to choose which of the attractions to visit during my day here. The huge variety of options (18 shops, facilities or experiences, actually!) in the English language Misaki Maguro Day Trip pamphlet is one of the beneﬁts of the Ticket. They all looked wonderful, and I was truly spoiled for choice. Being a nature lover, however, I decided to visit the nearby island of Jogashima. Since one of the attractions in question was an open-top bus tour from Leisure Facility Use or Souvenir Ticket which went from the station to Jogashima, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to travel to the island and see the natural beauty of the area at the same time. The trip was wonderful – not too long, not too short – and the guide was one of the best I’ve ever seen. Although her presentation was all Japanese, it was so well done that even non-Japanese speakers would enjoy it, and the beautiful scenery made the journey perfect.

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Once in Jogashima, I decided to explore the island on foot and made my way along the streets (stopping at a souvenir shop whose goods were made entirely of shells) until I came to the coast. As the trails are all very wellsigned, I had no trouble finding the path I wanted, and climbed up the steps until I was at the beginning of the trail that leads around the island. Surrounded by greenery on all sides, with gaps offering a tempting peek at the ocean scenery beyond, it felt as though there was no one else on the island except for me and the birds. The trail was laid out in such a way that made it easy to see the key points of the island, such as the natural arch Umanose-Domon, without needing to leave the trail. Of course, there are stairs down to the shore for those who would like a closer look. A lovely walk along the flat trail brought me to Jogashima Park, famous for its daffodils and hydrangeas. The park was the perfect size: big enough to offer plenty of sights, yet small enough to enjoy. By this point, I was ravenous and eager to try out another feature of my Misaki Maguro Day Trip Ticket: one free maguro lunch by means of Maguro selection Meal Ticket, which I could choose from a huge variety of participating restaurants. Since maguro happens to be one of my favorite foods, I knew I had to sample this local specialty. As with the activities, I was spoiled for choice when it came to choosing a restaurant, as they all have something good to offer. For example, Misakikan Main Store also runs a ryokan along with their restaurant, which is good for anyone looking to stay longer. Another noteworthy maguro restaurant is Jogashima-Shibukitei, which boasts a wonderful view of Mt. Fuji, a very entertaining English-speaking owner and chairs as opposed to traditional Japanese ﬂoor seating. While I could have returned to the mainland on the same open-top bus as before, I opted to try the watashibune (ferry) crossing instead. Imagine my surprise when, instead of running on a timetable, it turned out that the ferry could be summoned from the mainland with the push of a button!

Sengakuji Shinagawa

Keikyu Main Line Keikyu Kurihama Line

Haneda Airport

Keikyu Kamata Keikyu Kawasaki

Kojimashinden

Yokohama

Kamiooka

Tokyo Bay One smooth crossing later, I was back in Misaki Port, and time was pressing. I would love to rent the Miura Rent-a-Cycle and enjoy cycling around Misaki area, or seen the tuna auction at Misaki Port, but sadly I only had time for one ﬁnal stop: Urari Marché, a large food market that sells a huge variety of local vegetables, bread, tofu and (naturally!) maguro! Here, I was able to get my own Misaki tuna to take home for dinner, making it a perfect ending to a perfect day in this picturesque part of Japan.

Kanazawa-bunko Kanazawa-hakkei

Shinzushi

Yokosuka-chuo

Horinouchi Uraga

三崎口

Keikyu Kurihama Tsukuihama Miurakaigan

KEIKYU Misaki Maguro Day Trip Ticket: Eat. Play. Ride Discount package

Misakiguchi

Explore Misaki with the KEIKYU’s specially priced ticket package of three tickets as follows. * Available at Keikyu Line Stations (excluding Sengakuji and Misakiguchi Stations) * Valid only for date of purchase. * Price varies depending on boarding stations. A “Train and Bus Tickets:” Keikyu Line round-trip & Keihin Kyuko Bus Unlimited ride zone ticket. Stopovers are allowed. *However, going back is not allowed. B “Maguro Selection Meal Ticket:” You can choose one from 32 restaurants. C “Leisure Facility Use or Souvenir Ticket:” You can choose one from 18 shops, facilities or experiences. *Please note that each of the three tickets has its own use and variety of options. B & C tickets can be used only once at designated spot. For more information, please visit: https://www.haneda-tokyo-access.com/en/info/misakimagro/index.html Scan the QR code for more information about the featured places and more pictures. ▲

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N gata

Explore the Unique Variety of

~ The Sea of Japan, Savory Food Culture and Nature ~

Just two hours away by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo lies Niigata-ken (Prefecture). Niigata is a serene region on the nor thwest coast of Japan’s main island, Honshu. This coastal prefecture is characterized by its unique coasts and snow y mountain tops and is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts thanks to its

varying geography and seasonal activities.

Niigata is a gateway to some of Japan’s most breathtaking views, such as the gigantic waves from the Sea of Japan crashing against the rug ged coastal clif fs or the peaceful picturesque Echigo Mountains. It's also a large producer of seafood, sake, and rice. Sado Island: Treasure of the Japan Sea Visitors to Niigata's coast always speak about what makes the Japan Sea so amazing – its endless series of waves exploding against the rugged cliffs of the coastline or the hauntingly beautiful sunsets that shimmer on its surface – but, one is not ﬁnished describing the wonders of the Japan Sea without mentioning its largest remote enclave, the ﬂoating island of Sado. Located only 50 kilometers off the coast of Niigata, Sado Island can be reached by a 2.5-hour ferry ride or a 1-hour hydrofoil boat ride.

The Sasagawa Nagare Coastline mountain and seaside coastal roads offer perfect places to admire Niigata’s natural landscape.

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Though Sado Island is considered to be one of the top 100 sea-bathing areas in Japan – thanks to its beaches, rocky shores, and refreshing clear waters – there is so much

Tarai-bune (Tub boat) rides at Ogi Port in Sado Island

The terraced rice ﬁelds of Hoshitoge in Autumn

more waiting to be explored. In fac t, it is also an amazing place to experience Japanese history and culture, such as riding on a traditional Tarai-bune (Tub boat) in the water, visiting and panning for gold at the Sado Kinzan Gold Mine and participating in Oni- daiko (Demon drums) drumming workshops at the Sado Island Taiko Center.

rice terraces can be found at Hoshitoge in Tokamachi-shi (city). There, you can gaze out at the landscape and take in the sublime view of the world as the surrounding terrain and sky above are mirrored in pools of water from each puzzle piece shaped paddy.

Niigata: Japan’s favorite rice cultivator

Enjoy diﬀerent varieties of sake tasting at Ponshukan sake museum (Inside JR Echigo Yuzawa station)

Rice is a staple of the Japanese diet. It is also used to make various products, such as the Japanese rice wine sake. Niigata, a large producer of traditional Japanese alcohol, is said to be home to the best rice in Japan. With the aid of the fertile soil of the Echigo Plains, the snow-melt from the mountains, the unique regional climate, and proximity to the Sea of Japan, Niigata grows some of the ﬁnest rice in the world. The production of rice is not only an incredibly tasty export for Niigata, but it is also what makes the prefecture so spectacularly beautiful. Deep in the mountains of Niigata, the rugged mountainside transitions into a mesmerizing scene of endlessly cascading water-filled terraced rice ﬁelds (Tanada) along the fertile river. The most spectacular example of these

The dreamlike scenery of the Kayabuki No Sato Village in Oginoshima

The avenue of hazagi for hanging and drying harvested rice in Niigata-shi (city) ©Niigata Visitors & Convention Bureau WAttention Tokyo |

An incredible variety of salmon dishes at Idutsuya

Savoring the local seafood culture of Niigata The climate and marine ecosystem in Niigata provide it with a fantastic selection of seafood. Each area of the prefec ture serves up its own seafood specialties, and the locals take great pride in the culture of their traditional seafood cuisine. This rings especially true for dishes in Niigata’s many beach towns. The coastal town of Murakami is known as a “salmon town,” and many local shops proudly hang catches of salmon at their storefronts and from the ceilings within. Murakami’s most famous local specialty is Shiobiki-sake (w in d - dr ie d , fer m en te d s alm on) . I t is prepared by gutting the salmon, ﬁlling it with salt to sit for several days, then washing the salt away. The salmon is hung from the tail to dry and ferment in the open-air for a month. As the fish ages, they are seasoned with special ingredients. Another place along Niigata’s coast known for great ocean delicacies is the town of 26

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Izumozaki. The appetizing aroma is especially s trong in Izumoz ak i w here loc als cook delectable hama-yaki (seafood grilled on skewers) from freshly caught seafood daily. Owners of local fish markets proudly make the popular dish kneeling by the intense ﬁres. Walking down the charming old streets of Izumozaki, the fresh hama-yaki tempts foodies from just about every store window. It is an easy treat to savor while exploring the beautiful, calm beach town and all its rich history.

Izumozaki is a nostalgic beach town

Get your ﬁll of great seafood at the Teradomari Fish Market Street Along the Teradomari Beach in Nagaoka-shi (cit y) is the Teradomari Fish Market Street (also known as Sakana no Ameyoko). This bustling area is filled to the brim with seafood stalls, shops, and restaurants. Try a variety of delicious bite-sized seafood snacks from the stalls, or visit restaurants above the market that oﬀer English menus. The white crab ramen is the most highly recommended meal in the area.

Learning all about sake at Asahi Shuzo Sake Brewery

The delicious fermented salmon or “shiobiki-sake” : The 1,100 hanging ﬁsh from the ceiling at the legendary Kikkawa Salmon Store in Murakami.