WAttention Tokyo Vol.18

2015 Winter issue VOL.18

SPECIAL FEATURE 1

Time Travel City

Shinjuku

SPECIAL FEATURE 2

Yokocho in Tokyo

A Short Trip from Tokyo – Heavenly Hokuto BQpedia – Your Guide to the Underbelly of Japanese Cuisine

The Winner!

Find out the re sults of our Photo Cont est on page 18

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暦 Koyomi 31 DEC 2015

こよみを楽しむ

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

To s h i k o s h i S o b a 年越し蕎麦

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇

The tradition of eating soba on the last day of the year - 31 Dec, also called omisoka - has been around in Japan since the mid-18th century, or the mid-Edo era. This came to be known as toshikoshi soba, or year-crossing soba. Eating soba right before the new year is meant to symbolize cutting off or puting an end to all bad events that happened within the year, hence the choice of soba, as it can be easily cut by chopsticks. On the other hand, the fact that it is long and thin is meant to symbolize longevity and a sustained prosperity for the family.

In addition, the soba plant also embodies resilience and sturdiness as it survives even in cold climates and recovers quickly from damage by wind and rain with just a little sunlight, plus, it is known to be good for cleansing the blood and lowering blood pressure, hence it is said that eating soba helps to clean the body from the inside to welcome the new year.

There is another interesting saying that goldsmiths in the Edo era would, on the last day of the year, use a ball made from

soba flour to gather all the gold dust that had gathered within the year off the tatami mat, and this association between soba and wealth accumulation made toshikoshi soba popular.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

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※日本文化の魅力を世界に発信する「WAttention Tokyo」 事業は東京都中小企業振興公社の推奨事業です。

Why WAttention ?

VOL.18

WAttention is named so with the hope that people in the world would pay more Attention to WA （和）; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention） してほしいという願 いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

F E AT U R E

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.

Time Travel City

Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

Shinjuku

Chief Writer Tor Ching Li Editorial Team Ayako Sogo, Miki Onishi, Esra Krabbe, Ian Nagata, Sayaka Uchida

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In Harmony with the Seasons

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Tokyo Hot News

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Feature 1

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Robot Restaurant – Entertainment of the Future

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Family Fun @ Takashimaya Times Square

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Depato Deluxe – Ultimate Shopping Therapy @ Isetan Shinjuku Store

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Results of WAttention Photo Contest

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BQpedia – Your Guide to the Underbelly of Japanese Cuisine

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Feature 2

26

A Short Trip from Tokyo – Heavenly Hokuto

28

Guess the Gesture

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Tokyo Must Do

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Words of Japan

Design Team Graphic Designers Kay Wu, Amber Chen, Michiko Otomo Photographers Heath Smith, Kenji Sugasawa, Hajime Watanabe

Time Travel City Shinjuku

Sales & Marketing Shinobu Yamamoto, Akihiro Shimomura, Yuri Nakazawa Special thanks Rieko Ido, Tian Zhong Ing 広告・記事に関するお問い合わせは 和テンション株式会社 〒150-0002 東京都渋谷区渋谷2-3-8 倉島渋谷ビル401号 Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) / 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com

Yokocho in Tokyo

シンガポール事務所 Minook International (S) Pte Ltd 2B Craig Road Singapore 089662 Phone : 65-6324-2127 ロサンゼルス事務所 Team J station, Inc. 2383 Lomita Blvd., Suite 114 Lomita, CA.90717 Phone : 1-310-782-8279

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In This Issue

Winter 2015-2016

One can t come to Tokyo and not visit Shinjuku.

This is the nerve center for the running of Tokyo, where red light district meets green lung, high fashion meets geeky gadgets and where the past meets the present and takes it to an alleyway for a drink to reminisce the future.

Speaking of which, discover the back alley drinking lanes of Tokyo with our Yokocho feature, and the underbelly of Japanese cuisine with our new BQpedia series.

We kick this off with the favorite wintertime warmer,

Don't miss out!

oden. And before you head out, learn a few unique Japanese body gestures that will come in handy when, for example, hunting for a restaurant with enough seats for your group or making your way through the Shinjuku crowd. Last but not least, in our regular column Words of Japan, we leave you with the word「無事」, wishing all our readers and fans of Japan peace and self-fulfillment in the new year ahead.

Chief Writer Tor Ching Li

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TOKYO HOT

EWS

Bringing you the latest hot news

3Get fresh at Shibuya Modi

Mt. Takao in the West of Tokyo is a popular hiking destination, and now you can reward yourself with a dip in a natural hot spring located right next to Takaosanguchi Station. Also be sure to try out local gourmet as tororo soba (buckwheat noodles with grated yam) at the facility’s dining space.

Shibuya Modi by the Marui Group is the latest addition to the shopping scene in the trendy Shibuya district. With a distinct lush green façade, Modi provides the freshest contents ranging from fashion, lifestyle and gourmet to exciting activities and experiences. Some of the many new and innovative shops include THE YARD, a brand that presents kimono as everyday fashion and Cheese Dish Factory, a restaurant completely dedicated to everything cheese. A tourist information center is available at the first basement floor.

Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu

Shibuya Modi

URL: http://www.takaosan-onsen.jp/english/

URL: http://shibuya.m-modi.jp.e.wb.hp.transer.com/

2Hot (spring) news from Mt. Takao

1Everything Japan at Marugoto Nippon

4Top winter illumination at OMOHARA

Japan, or Nippon, is so much more than just Tokyo!

At this new megastore scheduled to open on December 17 in Asakusa, you can find the signature crafts and delicacies from all Japan’s 47 prefectures.

Catch the illumination at Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku’s rooftop terrace Omoharanomori until February 29. Together with the terrace’s trees, this is an ideal spot for a romantic winter date, be it for Christmas, New Year or even Valentine’s Day!

Marugoto Nippon

2015 OMOHARA Illumination

URL: http://marugotonippon.com/ (Japanese)

URL: http://omohara.tokyu-plaza.com/en/?link_id=lang_en

5Cheers to Nomono Kitchen Enjoy local craft beer and dishes made with ingredients from Eastern Japan at Nomono Kitchen Ikebukuro East Exit. This is the third branch of this Tokyo-based shop that sells local delicacies from various prefectures. Try a traditional Japanese breakfast or have some beer snacks such as 4 different homemade potato salads.

Nomono Kitchen Ikebukuro Station East Exit Branch URL: http://www.jreast.co.jp/nomono/ikebukuro/index.html (Japanese)

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T i m e T r a

S h i n Where the future…

Shinjuku literally means “New Lodge”, when the area became a new rest m o d e r n - d a y To k y o t o t h e n e x t to be synonymous with everything new streaming through the world’s busiest as a place for rest and quiet. Yet, shiny aside, Shinjuku also has a timeless side

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v e l C i t y

juku meets the past.

and got that naming in the Edo period stop along a major route joining prefecture. Today, Shinjuku continues and edgy. But with crowds constantly station here, it wouldn’t come to mind glass and steel and gaudy neon lights to it where history and culture thrive.

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Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower:

Time Travel City Shinjuku:

Hosting Japan’s largest specialized training college offering courses in design, fashion, business and graphics, this is the 2nd-tallest educational building in the world; 25th-tallest building in Japan.

Future Forward A mosaic of modernity featuring glitz, glamour, gizmos and Godzilla.

1991

Sompo Japan Building:

243m 2000 240m 1996 222m

1979 223m

1994 235m

2008 203m

1973 1974 210m 210m 1978 209m

Still eye-catching with its unique curved design despite being built 40 years ago.

1 The skyline’s the limit Shinjuku skyscrapers

One of Tokyo’s first skyscrapers, the 178m-high Keio Plaza Inter-Continental, was built in the business district of West Shinjuku in the '70s. Now, Shinjuku’s ever-changing skyline has a range of buildings that easily exceed 200m.

2 Electronics and Fashion Collaboration Store BICQLO

Fast fashion meets the newest gadgets, glasses, medicines and more at this revolutionary collaboration between Uniqlo and Bic Camera.

Accessorize with the latest electronic goods here.

3 Oh my Godzilla!

Address: Shinjuku 3-29-1, Shinjuku Hours: 10am – 10pm URL: http://www.biccamera.co.jp.e.lj.hp.transer.com/ shoplist/shop-116.html

Hotel Gracery

Catch the King of the Monsters up at Hotel Gracery’s 8th floor terrace, where guests of the hotel and its Café Terrace Bonjour can sneak a peek.

Address: Kabukicho 1-19-1, Shinjuku Café Terrace Bonjour Hours: 10:30am – 8:30pm (Weekends & Holidays require a limited-entrance ticket, distributed from 10am at the 1st floor entrance.)

URL (Hotel Reservations): http://shinjuku.gracery.com

4 Flour power Cafe comme ca Shinjuku

Savor these gorgeous fruit tarts in the shape of a flower bouquet. Made from fresh seasonal fruits, they taste as exquisite as they look!

Address: Shinjuku 3-26-6 Comme Ca Store 5F, Shinjuku Hours: 11am – 11pm (11am – 8pm on Sundays, special hours for holidays) URL: http://www.cafe-commeca.co.jp/index.html (Japanese)

5 Inspect the gadgets Shinjuku Camera City A short walking distance from Shinjuku Station’s west exit, you’ll find a maze of electronic stores such as Yodobashi Camera and Bic Camera, each packed with the latest gizmos.

6 Bright lights, big city Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

HealSlo Ochapresso Enjoy the fragrance and health benefits of freshly-milled green tea with this automated tea mill.

Don’t miss out on Shinjuku’s best night viewing spot from the district’s tallest skyscraper at 243m which also happens to be free! For this evening cityscape pictured here, head to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (Tocho)’s Northern Observation Deck (45F), facing northeast towards the station. Arrive an hour before or after sunset to avoid elevator lines that spill out to the courtyard.

Robophone This little robot smartphone is so cute you’d be at its beck and call.

(Scheduled for an early-2016 release)

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Tocho, viewed from the courtyard

Address: Nishi-shinjuku 2-8-1, Shinjuku Northern Observation Deck Hours: 9:30am – 11pm, closed the 2nd & 4th Mondays each month (or Tuesdays when a national holiday), New Years holidays Dec. 29-31, Jan. 2-3 URL: http://www.metro.tokyo.jp/ENGLISH/ABOUT/APPENDIX/ appendix06.htm

*O ne N

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pe rp er so n

Robot Restaurant

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Entertainment of the future While 3-D cinema and VR gaming are today’s modern entertainment, Robot Restaurant presents you entertainment from another dimension. Metallic robots and gaudy girls parading, dancing and battling in front of you while you reach your chopsticks to a sushi bento, is something you simply won’t find in any other part of the world just yet. Esra Krabbe reports funky robots play the guitar and Japanese bamboo flute before a talented female singer appears on stage to steal the show, and the show has not even begun yet!

Robots as friends Some people fear that robots – our own creations – might someday become too powerful and stand above us, but not the Japanese. Here, people grow up with cute robots from manga and anime as Doraemon and Astro Boy and see robots as their close friends. And so, Robot Restaurant’s show girls are not at all afraid to have a dance with the robots, or even mount on them to go and make mincemeat of the enemy.

Not restaurant but show With flashy neon-lights that make even Las Vegas’ casino spotlights seem dim, Robot Restaurant’s façade already shouts future, but just wait until you arrive at the golden-gilded waiting lounge. Here,

Despite its name, Robot Restaurant is a show and not a restaurant. While a sushi bento can be ordered in advance and snacks and drinks are sold during the breaks, these are of no more importance than popcorn at a cinema. However, we do recommend a few beers so that you are all loosened up and ready for the madness of this crazy robot house.

Join the robots What I liked about Robot Restaurant most, is that it doesn’t take itself too seriously. While the acts do have storylines, they are very flexible and exist for the mere purpose of creating an exciting over-the-top show. As a result, the imagination of the show’s creators is not held back, and the performers can fully immerse in their own show with joy. Even the robots seem to be having a blast, so let’s swing that light stick as the robots and girls make their final appearance during a grand parade!

Robot Restaurant Address: Kabukicho 1-7-1, Shinjuku Time: 4pm-11pm (Shows: 4pm, 5:55pm, 7:50pm, 9:45pm) 1 show approx. 90 minutes Admission: 7,000 yen Access: 5-min walk from JR and Tokyo Metro Shinjuku Station URL: http://www.shinjuku-robot.com/pc/?lng=en WAttention Tokyo

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Time Travel City Shinjuku:

Past Perfect

See the same sights that armor that they wore. Here are get a taste of the past that lives

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

2. The secret

garden shrine Hanazono-jinja Shrine

l. Be Shinjuku’s last samurai Samurai Museum

Located in the middle of Tokyo’s wildest entertainment district, Kabukicho, this museum of samurai armors and swords presents you a slice of Japanese history. Put on armor and grab a sword for a picture in your own history book!

Hidden amidst the concrete jungle of Eastern Shinjuku, Hanazono (“Flower Garden”)-jinja Shrine has been the spiritual protectorate of the district for over 400 years. Delight in this brilliant vermillion treasure, and the sacred ginkgo trees that date back centuries.

Address: Shinjuku 5-17-3, Shinjuku Hours: 9am – 6pm URL: http://www.hanazono-jinja.or.jp/ (Japanese)

Address: Kabukicho 2-25-6, Shinjuku Hours: 12am – 10pm URL: http://www.samuraimuseum.jp/en/index.html

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4. A spicy love story

Shinjuku Nakamuraya Restaurant & Cafe Manna This is the first restaurant to introduce authentic Indian curry to Japan.

It was introduced by an Indian political refugee Rash Behari Bose who married the daughter of Nakamuraya’s founder. While his wife passed away early on, he decided to stay and introduce Indian curry to the Japanese as a new menu for Nakamuraya. This same curry can still be savored at "Manna" today.

Address: Shinjuku 3-26-13 Nakamuraya Bldg. B2F, Shinjuku Hours:11am – 10pm (11am – 10:30pm on Fridays, Saturdays and days before holidays) URL: https://www.nakamuraya.co.jp/manna/ (Japanese)

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samurai saw or try on the some spots where one can on in the present.

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3. An image of Meiji

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

This sprawling public park used to be the Imperial Family’s garden in the Meiji era, and in the Edo era the grounds belonged to the local lord Naito. This is the largest urban oasis in the area, containing distinct English, French and Japanese landscaped gardens.

Address: 11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku Hours: 9am – 4pm, closed on Mondays (or Tuesdays when Monday is a national holiday), New Years holidays Dec. 29 – Jan. 3 URL: https://www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen/english/index.html

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6. Test the waters of

Japanese tradition Termae Yu

The age-old Japanese practice of public bathing can be experienced at Termae-yu, Shinjuku’s only natural hot spring located in the middle of Kabukicho! With baths of authentic Japanese interior and design, this is Shinjuku’s best pick for a relaxing soak back in time.

5. On retro-spect Coffee Seibu

Address: Kabukicho 1-1-2, Shinjuku Hours: 11am – 9am URL: http://thermae-yu.jp/index.html (Japanese)

For the feel and flavor of one of Tokyo’s last-standing classic cafés, retreat to the retro atmosphere of this 51-year-old landmark.

Their extravagant chocolate parfait and famed omurice (omelet rice) are just two of the traditional favorites, and make the perfect pair!

Address: Shinjuku 3-34-9 Metro Kaikan 2F, Shinjuku Hours: 7am – 11:30pm URL: http://www.shinjuku-chuo.com/shop/seibu/seibu.htm (Japanese)

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Famil

Star t your day here!

Morning

Discover the Depachika

B1

“Depachika” refers to the basement of the department store, which is usually the food, beverage and confectionery section in Japan. A feast for the eyes and tummy!

!

Hot item

@ Takashimaya

One-Stop Omiyage Shopping!

Ideal spot for a family

Top 100 Souvenir Snacks

Treats for Dad

Choose from a selection of the best souvenir snacks from each of Japan’s 47 prefectures.

Japanese Whiskey Corner

Unagi Pie V.S.O.P. 982 yen for box of 5

With labels such as Hibiki gaining popularity worldwide, grab them here as they may be sold out at the airport!

Coined a “midnight snack for adults”, this deluxe version contains the essence of eel and brandy!

Morning tea

Sweet Start

KOGANEAN dorayaki “Dora” Savor the delicate taste and soft, chewy texture of this Japanese pastry.

173 yen for one

Eat-in OK!

Patissieria Sweets Select Shop and Cafeteria

Get beauty tips at the Cosmetics Counter.

The cream of the crop of sweet treats made by 14 leading Japanese patissiers are all gathered in one display counter. Sweet heaven!

e-up Our mak ies off fl r e v o m re es! the shelv

2 Feel free to ask me any beauty questions!

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Best Face Forward at the Cosmetics Floor!

1F

Browse through the latest beauty products in this bright and spacious hall.

Check out FANCL's new booth opened here!

3 Afternoon

Big Space for the Little Ones

9F

Toys galore aside, mothers can take a rest at a café with pram parking available, with a kids’ salon just next door (reservations required).

Miki House

Sanrio

Baby Shoes

Gudetama Goods

Made with no effort spared to provide firm support for baby’s first steps.

Brighten your day with this cute runny egg, Gudetama!

pink 8,532 yen blue 6,372 yen

Blanket 1,944 yen Clip Purse 1,059 yen Soft Toy 1,059 yen

Special Tourist Services

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Get your tax refund at the second floor.

Interpreters like me are always available to help!

Prayer Room

11F

This spacious room – which comes with washing facilities and all necessary items – can be used from 10am to 8pm. Takashimaya is the only department store in Tokyo to provide this service.

Shopping here is a breeze with these handy services!

Rental Bicycles

Tax-Free+5%Off!

Rental bikes available at 2,160 yen for a day.

Show your passport at the 2F Tax Refund Counter to get this Hello Kitty 5% discount card.

Prior reservations needed.

First at a Department Store!

Take u!s home

©2013, 2015 SANRIO CO., LTD. APPROVAL No. S564371

e Interpreters ar easy to spot in red coats!

Skyscraper district not come to mind as place. But Takashimaya something for everyone With everything under perfect for some lastHere are some of the

©1976, 2015 SANRIO CO., LTD. APPROVAL No. G562591

Takashimaya Shinjuku Address: Sendagaya 5-24-2 Shibuya Tel: 03-5361-1111 Access: 1-min walk from New South Exit JR Shinjuku Station

y Fun

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Editor's Note

TOKYU HANDS Hit Items

Tor Ching Li

Tokyu Hands is the best thing since sliced bread and the selfie stick, and the Shinjuku store - sprawling over seven floors - is edutainment for the whole family. Rediscover the charm of paper products with the latest inventions from Japanese stationery scientists.

Noteworthy, so to speak, is the Magnetic Memo which sticks like magic to any surface, great for work or play! Or choose a diary tailored to your needs, resolutions or life priorities, be it family, work or play - there's sure to be one with your name on it.

T imes Square

fun yet relaxing day out!

Shinjuku might a family-friendly Times Square has (and yes, free Wi-Fi!). one roof, it's also minute shopping! highlights.

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Evening

TOKYU HANDS

Show your passport at any counter to get this 5% discount coupon

Takashimaya Times Square 2F-8F Hours: 10am - 9pm

Fun and Functionary Diaries

Always reliable and no batteries required.

From 1,152 yen~

Magnetic Memo Get creative with these nifty notes that can stick to any surface, be it wall, glass or stone!

Isshin Do Animal Face Packs

From 378 yen~

Try to keep a straight face while moisturizing with these fun face packs! ©1976, 2015 SANRIO CO., LTD. APPROVAL No. G562591

900 yen for a pack of two

THERMOS Mugs and Zojirushi Food Jar Look cool while keeping warm with the latest functional yet sleek designs.

From 3,218 yen~

Metallic Nano Puzzle

e h at th Refres ter race! r i open-a

Can’t say no to one of these Japanese icons.

From 950 yen~

5

Memorable Meals at the Restaurants Park!

12F - 14F

Because your family deserves only the best, spoil yourselves at these top notch restaurants serving Japanese classics.

ted perfec Taste 0 years 2 over 1

Sushi

Tamazushi 築地玉寿司 Enjoy bluefin tuna caught off Japan’s shores and the Indian Ocean, and other fresh catch of the day in this stylish sushi restaurant. Watch the sushi chefs at work at the unique curved counter designed like a sushi rice tub.

Specialty Sukiyaki

Perfect for la lunches or zy decadent d inners!

Try the marinated tuna!

Special Sukiyaki Set 8,100 yen

Tempura

Tsunahachi つな八

Ningyocho Imahan 人形町 今半 You haven’t tried sukiyaki until you’ve had Imahan.

Savor melt-in-your-mouth slices of black-haired wagyu beef and the rich flavors of sukiyaki that is truly worth singing about.

o Top Toky Tempura

Roast Beef Nigiri 1,620 yen

Tsukiji Special Nigiri Selection 3,780 yen

Lunch: 11am - 3pm Dinner: 3pm - 11pm (Last order:10pm) Tel: 03-5361-1871 *10% service charge will be added after 5pm.

Lunch: 11am - 3pm Dinner: 3pm - 11pm (Last order:10:30pm) Tel: 03-5361-1866

※ All prices include tax ※ Please note that items shown may be sold out on the day

Delight in the taste, texture and sound of perfectly crispy tempura at this classic establishment and top off your meal with its original creation, tempura ice cream.

Lunch set from 1,728 yen Dinner set from 3,672 yen Lunch: 11am - 4pm Dinner: 4pm - 11pm (Last order:10pm) Tel: 03-5361-1860 WAttention Tokyo

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Lifestyle Report

Depato Deluxe Ultimate Shopping Therapy @ Isetan Shinjuku Store

Bringing Japan's "depato" or department store culture to new heights is the grand old dame of Isetan Shinjuku Store. In fact, every item sold here has been carefully selected - or rather, curated - to deliver a fashion statement. Welcome to “Fashion Museum” that is Isetan Shinjuku Store.

Department Store Vs Shopping Mall To understand what a “depato” is, it is important to know the difference between a department store and a shopping mall. First of all, a mall is made up of various retail tenants while a department store selects what products and brands to sell based on a unified concept and identity. Which means that this selection determines its character, image and appeal, mainly by staying ahead of the fashion curve, or even setting the trend.

Isetan Shinjuku Store counts amongst its customer base trendsetters, fashionistas and artistes who have a discerning eye for design and beauty, as well as many others who have a taste for the finer things in life. As a landmark in the major shopping district of Shinjuku where all the heavyweight department stores are gathered, Isetan Shinjuku Store aims to become “The World’s Greatest Fashion Museum”. With an emphasis on fashion in all senses and genres, Isetan Shinjuku Store “curates” brands from Japan and worldwide based not just on their fame, but on the actual quality, creativity and trendsetting value of the product.

These carefully curated products are then displayed in elaborate showcases designed to bring out their appeal and character.

For example, promotional spaces in the form of a “park” are set up eye-catchingly right in the middle of each floor, displaying brands and limited edition items that deserve attention. Or, exhibitions based on a unique theme are held to give a sense that

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there’s always something new and happening in this museum.

And so Isetan Shinjuku Store is more than just a big scale shop where one can buy a wide selection of goods. Just browsing through the store is a feast for the eyes and a process of discovery of interesting things and happenings to gain inspiration from. It is a space where the joy and satisfaction of living a life less ordinary can be seen and felt.

Promotional Space “Park”

Isetan Shinjuku Store Going The Extra Mile For Each Customer There’s almost always a queue of customers waiting for Isetan Shinjuku Store to open in the morning, and it’s not hard to understand why. There’s no better way to experience what it means for the customer to be king (or queen) than to be greeted politely with a reverential bow by rows of staff as you approach their section. This tradition stems from the depato culture that strives to provide the most conducive shopping environment for customers. Tourists from overseas are often pleasantly surprised and impressed by the high level of customer service from sales and department staff, especially with the apt advice gently offered with a warm smile.

A man looking for a suitable fashion piece as a present for his wife back home gets assistance from a retail staff who helps to try it on for size; informed suggestions are made by staff after listening to the concerns of a customer torn over which item to get.

Such instances of service from the heart are too many to count.

This ability to anticipate needs before they are expressed is driven by a constant mindfulness of what customers want and need, and an unconditional desire to delight them. This is how service that exceeds expectations is achieved.

When gifts that are intricately wrapped without even a millimeter gap are handed over to the customer with a thank you greeting, what the customer receives is more than just a product purchased. It is also the pleasure that comes with shopping at a depato. *Wrapping varies based on product and department.

From the kitchen to the living room, from kids to madames From the 2nd Floor Basement to the 7th Floor and rooftop garden, the separate Men’s Store has everything to groom a gentleman from head to toe. In the Main Store, everything from clothes to food and livingware to support every aspect of life is available - be it a gift of jewelry for your mother, to a soft toy for your newly born nephew, or a cool smartphone accessory for your boyfriend, kitchen goods for a culinary-gifted friend and of course a designer’s dress for yourself. Moreover, you can be assured that all the goods available have been selected by the discerning eyes of an Isetan buyer.

Bedding Section Japanese Tableware Section

Services for Overseas Tourists Foreign Customer Service In addition to the tax rebate preparation procedures with language services available for English, Chinese and Korean speakers, various other services are available here:

1 Attendants Shopping English, Chinese or Korean-speaking staff will accompany your shopping trip to provide assistance where required. Reservations advised.

2 Guest Card Customers who possess an Isetan Mitsukoshi Group card from international branches can obtain a Guest Card to enjoy a 5% discount by showing their overseas card.

4 Free Wi-Fi Area Shop smart with the help of your smartphone or tablet.

5 Hotel Delivery Service Send your purchases from Isetan to your hotel for free to enjoy a hands-free evening of dining or touring (limited to participating hotels).

*Payment only accepted by cash or UnionPay.

3 Foreign Exchange Machine Twelve types of currencies can be changed here (from the US dollar, Euro, Yuan, Taiwan dollar, Korean won and Singapore dollar, etc.), with services in four languages.

6 Airport Delivery Get your goods sent direct to the airport. This charged service saves the hassle of carrying heavy luggage for the rest of your trip.

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15

Try on a new look.

ANNA SUI, Flower Print Dress 57,420yen

Beauty and Food, What Everyone Always Wants Cool Picks of Isetan Shinjuku Ladies Fashion (1F-4F)

Japanese Brand Tour Put together specially for foreign visitors, this tour introduces the Japanese designers of the moment and is a must for those interested in fashion trends. Find out more about brands gaining attention overseas such as TOGA, sacai and more.

Details: Every Thursday, 11am and 4pm 3 people per session. Tour lasts 40-50min. *This tour only introduces ladies’ brands.

To apply, visit: http://goo.gl/j4WS3W

WAttention Tokyo

EK THONGPRASERT, Necklace 49,680yen

The most trend-setting collection

Bags and accessories are available on the 1F, while the 2F to 4F are curated with themes such as “trend”, “mode” and “luxury” in mind. You can be sure to find the latest trendsetting fashion items available here. Shopping here is a truly sensual experience as room fragrances add another dimension to the color scheme and mood. Every corner of the floor is framed like a stylish display, with the latest fashion ideas for the picking. Sales staff with detailed product knowledge are here to help you find the perfect item for your needs.

16

ANNA SUI, Embroidered Dress 63,720yen *available from mid-December

CLYDE, Hat 46,440yen LUGHA, Coat 248,400yen JOHNLAWRENCESULLIVAN, Pants 27,000yen SAKIAS, Boots 66,960yen

Isetan Shinjuku Store

Food Floor (B1F)

A treasure chest of sweet treats and delicacies

Those in tune with Japanese culture will know of the term “depachika”, which means “the basement of the department store” where the food, fresh produce, confectionery and beverages such as tea to sake can be found. With around 160 retail counters to choose from, one is truly spoilt for choice in this gourmet paradise. Pick from traditional Japanese souvenirs from legendary makers, or buy some picture perfect fresh fruits or cakes as an afternoon snack.

Nakashima Jyouzou, Kozaemon Junmai Daiginjyo 4,500yen Savor the splendid aroma of this sake, an Isetan Mitsukoshi Group limited item.

Suzukake, Ichigo Daifuku 324yen (1 piece) Taste the traditional flavor of this more than 90-year-old confectionery.

(Available only until mid-April 2016.)

Kaisekiryori-Aoyama, Jukkokumai Bento 1,080yen An elegant combination of tempura and grilled salmon, with ten grain rice.

Beauty Apothecary (B2F)

Beauty from the inside out This floor has the health and beauty of women in mind. There are eight zones here, such as for the face, to body and inner support. Find cosmetic products as well as beauty foods, aroma, supplements, etc. to ensure your body is beautiful from the inside out. Natural ingredients are used in the line-up here. Sample natural wine, vegetable-based sweets and more at the deli corner and café.

KOTOSHINA, KS Body Butter SGT 8,640yen (180ml) This body butter will moisturize your skin with the fragrance of green tea.

YON-KA, Lotion YON-KA 5,724yen (200ml) Freshen up with this brand’s bestselling mist lotion containing five essential oils.

Sunfood Super Foods, Organic superfoods smoothie mix 4,104yen(227g) The breakfast of champions made simple with this all-natural protein rich smoothie.

Isetan Shinjuku Store Hours: 10:30am-8pm Address: Shinjuku 3-14-1, Shinjuku Access: 1-min walk from Tokyo Metro ShinjukuSanchome Station URL: http://www.isetan.co.jp/int

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And the winning photo is…

Results of WAttention Photo Contest

WAttention would like to thank all fans of Japan for sending us your best shots of Shinjuku, Yokocho (Japanese Drinking Alleys), and Japanese Winter for our third photo contest. The winning photo, as featured on this magazine’s cover, impressed for capturing Shinjuku’s phenomenal night scenery colored with flashy neon lights.

We’d also like to give mention to some other photos that were close contestants for the best shot!

Honorable Mention

Winning Entry: Masay uki Yamashita Theme: Shinjuku “Sh inju ku O- Gu ard: Aft er sho otin g the So mp o Jap an Bu ildi ng, onl loo k bac k!” y to

Honorable Mention

Honorable Mention

Honorable Mention

Photograph by: Rachel Fay Theme: Shinjuku, Japanese Winter “Winter: Interesting symmetrical trees at Shinjuku Gyoen”

Photograph by: Heath Smith Theme: Shinjuku “A Free View of Shinjuku”

Photograph by: Hiroshi Sata Theme: Japanese Winter “Japanese Winter Scenery, Ueno Tosho-gu”

Photograph by: Leon Wu Theme: Yokocho (Japanese Drinking Alleys) “Light rain in an alley in Chiyoda Ward”

“A scene that artistically captures the passing of autumn and coming of winter.”Tor Ching Li

“Though I live just 8 min away, this shot makes me want to rediscover the wonder of this district.”Ian Nagata

“It is almost as if I can hear fresh footsteps being printed in the white snow of this Japanese snowscape.”Esra Krabbe

“The juxtaposition of the bright red paper lantern and this salaryman on a damp day fully captures the appeal of the Yokocho.” Amber Chen

Upcoming Contest: Jan 1 – Feb 25 Follow us online for more details regarding our next photo contest, and win a chance to have your photo published on the cover of the next WAttention Tokyo!

WA

https://www.wattention.com https://www.facebook.com/Wattention https://plus.google.com/s/wattention

Show us your best photos of Japan!

High on Taste, Low in Price, Steeped in Culture!

BQ

pedia

Your guide to the underbelly of Japanese cuisine

Oden / oʊ·ˈden

Today's BQ menu

What it is:

at the counter. You can even find

A traditional winter hot pot dish,

canned oden vending machines in

commonly consisting of radish,

Akihabara as a souvenir! Of course,

kelp, boiled eggs and konjac, tofu

there are traditional specialty

and fishcakes in various shapes and

stores with set menus — some

sizes, simmered in a dashi soup

offering a selection of over 50 items.

broth. The flavoring of the soup, ingredients and condiments vary

How to enjoy it:

from region to region.

Oden is enjoyed on its own as a main dish. At some conbini you

Where to find it:

B級グルメ (“B-Kyu Gurume”) may mean “B-Grade Gourmet” but the only thing “B-Grade” about this food category is the price, as most Japanese will swear by the “A-Grade” taste of these local

may have the option of adding

At local izakayas, street stalls and

udon to the soup. Choose any item

nearly every convenience store

that looks appetizing or interesting

(conbini) from as early as Septem-

to you — the taste may be mainly

ber. To order at the conbini, simply

of the broth, but enjoy the different

pick out your preferred items, pour

textures!

the soup to your liking, and pay

favorites. Not to be confused as the equivalent of “fast food” in the West. Let WAttention walk

E

you through this food culture with

D

our definitive BQ Gourmet guide!

C

B

Get saucy!

Vary the taste with these condiments: Shichimi:

Yuzu Kosho:

a blend of seven spices

a zesty yuzu pepper paste

Miso:

Karashi:

for a hint of traditional sweetness

spicy Japanese mustard for a little extra heat

F

A 2

3

1

>> WAttention writer Ian's oden findings: What’s inside

A Cabbage rolls: filled with minced meat B Gyusuji: beef tendon C Goboten: fried burdock root (gobo) with fish paste D Chikuwabu: a tube-shaped cake made of flour paste E Hanpen: like fishcake meringue, made by whipping fish paste with egg whites F Fishcake varieties

Must try items Oden first-timers can’t go wrong with these standards.

1 Daikon: a hands-down favorite of the locals, this radish soaks up the broth thoroughly 2 Kinchaku: a small pouch of deep-fried tofu, filled with mochi 3 Konjac: made from the konjac potato, springy with near zero calories!

For more details on BQ Gourmet, check our BQpedia series online at www.wattention.com

WAttention Tokyo

19

o h c o Yok in

o y k To

Yokocho in Japanese literally means “side alley� and usually refers to a small, winding smoky lane that leads you into another realm of Tokyo where grit rules over grids.

While popular as tourist spots today, these clusters sprung up

20

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randomly in the ashes of postWar Japan as black markets or unlicensed bars and businesses.

Its role, however, remains the same — as a place to either lose, find or just be yourself off the mainstream hustle and bustle.

e h t o t e m o c l We ! ! e f i l f o y a w y e l l a WAttention WAttention Tokyo Tokyo2121

The Way of

the Yokocho

What to try

Each shop usually specializes in a certain type of food from grilled meats to stewed dishes, soba or ramen, just to name a few. Here are some of the staples to try.

Entering a drinking hole along the yokocho for the first time can be daunting, especially if you don’t speak Japanese. Fortunately, some shops in the bigger yokochos have English and Chinese menus. Otherwise, following these simple rules will help make your experience enjoyable. ❶ Always order a drink or more to go with your food ❷ Don’t invade the counter space of the person next to you ❸ Don’t linger after finishing your food - bar hop to the next stop! ❹ Do bring enough cash to pay, credit cards are often not accepted

Food on sticks Grilled unagi:

Charcoal-grilled eel found in some alleys

Yakitori:

Grilled chicken parts

Sizzling food Gyoza:

Griddled meat dumplings

Seafood amiyaki:

Grilled seafood, usually shellfish

Drinks up your alley

Boiled food

Order drinks like a local with this grog glossary!

Oden: Nama Lemon Chu-hi:

Nama Beer:

Shochu (distilled liquor) with soda and lemon

Draft beer

Hoppy:

A fizzy soft drink made from hops and served with shochu

YAMANOTE YOKOCHOS

Highball:

Tofu, fishcakes, meat and vegetables boiled in a clear soup stock

Ramen:

Round off your night of drinking with a hot steaming bowl of noodles!

Motsu stew:

Stewed innards with vegetables and konjac

Whiskey with soda

Why stop at bar crawling when you can yokocho-hop? Check out these famous yokochos along the JR Yamanote Line, all within close walking distance from the station. Discover the different characters, flavors and scents of each alleyway.

Nonbei Yokocho

渋谷

山区

しぶ や

恵比寿 Ebi su

原宿

Sh ibu ya

Tucked away from the Shibuya crossing crowd and fancy fashion malls is Nonbei Yokocho (literally, “Drunkard’s Alley”) that still offers a glimpse of 1950s Shibuya, when shops were low-rise and had wooden structures. Take a reminiscent stroll through this 36-eatery-lined alleyway and you’ll understand why some tourists might mistake this for time-travel theme park.

Access: 4-min. walk from JR Shibuya Station Hachiko Exit.

URL: http://nonbei.tokyo

Har aju ku

Namiki Savor the aroma and smoky flavor of Namiki’s yakitori, dipped in a secret 60-year-old tare sauce and grilled right before your eyes.

A great first stop as you eat your way through this alley, as it’s open from 4pm.

Address: Shibuya 1-25-10, Shibuya Hours: 4pm – 10pm, closed on Saturdays & Sundays

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WAttention Tokyo

Goes well with ice cold beer!

恵比寿

山区

えび す

渋谷

目黒 Me gur o

Eb isu

Shi buy a

Ebisu Yokocho

This yokocho is unique for being indoors and hence, sanitized. Opened in 2008 after renovating an old apartment block, it maintains the alleyway feel of being cramped, or cozy, with a good mix of 21 food stalls. The crowd here has a higher proportion of expatriates, and is perhaps reflected in the choice of stalls which includes a couple of wine bars – one even selling Iberico ham!

Access: 2-min. walk from JR Ebisu Station East Exit, or the Hibiya Line Ebisu Exit.

UOMARU

Our seafood s is as sweet a my smile!

This micro restaurant specializes in seafood, raw or grilled, but you can also order dishes from the two stalls next to it. Watch your order sizzling at the grill in front of your counter seat, or choose form tables made from stacked plastic beer cartons and wooden planks.

Hours: 5pm – 5am everyday

新 宿

Omoide Yokocho

代々木 Yoy ogi

Take a walk down “Memory Lane” (Omoide Yokocho) which lies in the shadows of Shinjuku’s skyscrapers. Numerous izakayas and bars line this winding back alley where stalls selling grilled cow and pig innards (motsuyaki) emerged in the post-war days when flour was scarce. Today, about one-third of the nearly 60 shops here still dish out this soul food. Salarymen can also be spotted queuing up for their favorite soba shop or yakitori joint. Pull up a bar stool, grab some skewers, and soak in the retro atmosphere here while creating some new memories of your own!

Access: 1-min. walk from JR Shinjuku Station East Exit.

URL: http://www.shinjuku-omoide.com/english/index.html

山区

し んじ ゅく

Sh inj uk u

新大久保 Shi n-o kub o

Dozo!

Torien The tasty and tender gyu-suji (beef tendon stew) here is a hot favorite that has been on the menu since it opened 60 years ago. This yakitori-focused izakaya has a wide menu including sashimi, fried noodles and rice dishes. One of the few places in this alleyway that can accommodate big groups.

Address: Nishishinjuku 1-2-4, Shinjuku Hours: Mon: 1pm – 11:40pm Other days: 12noon – 11:40pm

WAttention WAttention Tokyo Tokyo2323

山区

上野

Ameyayokocho (Ameyoko)

うえ の

御徒町

鶯谷 Ugu isud ani

Ue no

Oka chim ach i

Ameyoko is thought to have its roots as a black market after World War II, where “ame” – standing either for candy or American goods – was sold here when such goods were scarce. Today, this 500m long street is packed chock-ablock with shops selling everything from snow crabs to candy and snacks, bags, clothes, shoes and exotic foreign foods. The alleyways off this alleyway house a maze of izakayas which start from as early as 10am.

Access: 1-min. walk from JR Ueno Station Chuo Exit

UOKUSA No worries about language barriers at this stall that has a friendly service staff from America recommending the freshest catch of the day. Enjoy maguro (tuna), uni (sea urchin), scallop and crabs

Come try oysters as big as my hands!

Address: Ueno 6-10-7, Taito Hours: 11am – 7pm, closed every second Wednesday of the month

新 橋

山区

Shimbashi

Hamamatsucho

し ん ばし

Shimbashi Gado-shita

有楽町 Yurakucho

Located near the central business district, this stretch of watering holes under the train tracks is the big brother of drinking alleys and known as the “salaryman’s heaven” where tired men in dark suits go to knock back a swig or two over a couple of skewers on the way back from work, or to unwind on a Friday night with colleagues.

Access: 2-min. walk from Karasumori Exit of JR Shimbashi Station

I serve the taste of home.

Fuku Get a taste of nostalgia at this cosy eatery that has been serving up comfort food for the past 60 years. There is no menu but the owner, or okasan (mother) as customers call her, will prepare simple yet delicate-tasting vegetable-centric dishes simmered in a tasty dashi (broth) to warm your body and soul.

Address: Shibuya 1-25-10, Shibuya Hours: 4pm – 10pm, closed on Saturdays & Sundays

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WAttention Tokyo

浜松町

Other Side Alleys

Almost every area has its own yokocho for locals to gather and unwind.

Here are some other alleyways with character worth stopping by.

Asakusa Hoppy Dori

Koenji Gado-shita

Hoppy has a reputation as being the mixer of choice of the older generation, and for good reason – it was created in their younger days as a cheaper alternative to beer, to be mixed with stronger liquor such as shochu. In this alleyway, you can even find “draft” hoppy. The specialty here is “motsu stew”, or a hearty dish made from pig or cow innards, vegetables and konjac.

This is known as the alley for aspiring musicians and to support these struggling artistes are cheap bars, pubs and shops selling used CDs, musical instruments and clothes. Hang out with the lively crowd here under the tracks on the west side of Koenji Station. A must try is the “Gyoza for zero Yen” at Tachibana gyoza restaurant where you get a sizeable free gyoza portion with every drink ordered.

Access: 3-min. walk from Metro Asakusa Station

Access: 2-min. walk from JR Koenji Station

Amazake Yokocho

Harmonica Yokocho

Unlike the other alleyways that come alive at sunset, this 400m alleyway is more of a daytime place with a refined Shitamachi (old downtown) feel of the Edo era and famous for its amazake, or sweet non-alcoholic rice wine, and taiyaki baked pastry from a 99-year-old shop.

Formerly an underground flea market that sprung up in the early post-war period some 70 years ago, this is lined with small shops and bars just like the holes on a harmonica mouthpiece. While some of the tenants date way back, this area is now popular with the younger crowd for its trendy standing bars and hip restaurants.

Access: 2-min. walk from the Metro Ningyocho Station

Access: 2-min. walk from East Exit of JR Kichojoji Station

WAttention WAttention Tokyo Tokyo2525

Short Trip from Tokyo: hours away A "Little Hokkaido" just 2

y l n e v a e H Hokuto Cool crisp air, vast greenery and scenic mountain ranges make Hokuto City in Yamanashi Prefecture a popular summer escape for Tokyoites looking to beat the

Hokutoshi Yamanashi Prefecture

Shinjuku

Around 2 hours by JR Chuo Main Line (alight at Kobuchizawa Station)

heat and escape the maddening crowds. With less than 50,000 residents leaving footprints in this mountainous city the size of Tokyo's 23 wards, it's the perfect

To Shiojiri

weekend escapade to this city that is now gaining popularity amongst

Hokuto City is blessed with famous mountain ranges such as the volcanic Yatsugatake range and some of the clearest waters in Japan.

❻

❼❸ ❺

Nagasaka Station Hinoharu Station

❷

Chuo Main Line To Shinjuku

nature-loving tourists to bring you this feature on nature and food!

Ojiragawa Valley

Mountains and Valleys

Kiyosatio Station

Kobuchizawa Station

retreat to enjoy untouched nature. Coined as "Little Hokkaido" for its bucolic beauty, it also boasts vantage views of Mt Fuji. WAttention couldn't help making a

Koumi Line

❹❶

MAP

2

Go with the flow

The Higashizawa gorge in autumn.

Take a scenic trek along the emerald green Ojiragawa river which was selected as one of Japan’s Top 100 Famous Waters. The varied scenery of hanging bridges and waterfalls of various heights and flows makes this 4-hr course popular all year round.

Access: 30-min by taxi from Nagasaka Station.

URL: http://www.city.hokuto.yamanashi.jp/genre/detail/1835/ (Japanese)

Canadian Camp Riding Club Have fun horsing around

MAP

3

Travel back in time on horseback here with one of these gentle beasts. The horses here are so seasoned it won’t take long in the practice area before heading out to gallop along an old forest pathway once used by samurais by the Warring States period.

Sky Soft 400 yen Freshly-baked stick loaf topped with soft-serve ice cream

Sunmeadows Kiyosato

MAP

1

Taste the high life Feel on top of the world with a panoramic view of Mt. Fuji and the Yatsugatake mountain range from Kiyosato Terrace, 1,900m above ground. Lounge on a sofa with a soft-serve ice cream at the cafe, or sit down for a buffet lunch at the restaurant that uses fresh local produce.

Hours: 9am – 5pm (summer) 8am – 5pm (winter) Access: 5-min by Kiyosato Picnic bus or taxi from Kiyosato Station.

URL: http://snow.gnavi.co.jp/guide/htm/r0018ens.htm

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WAttention Tokyo

WAttention writers on their trusty steeds.

Hours: 9am – 6pm (From April to October) Access: 5-min by Yatsugatake Kogen Resort bus or taxi from Kobuchizawa Station URL: http://www.artkeith.com/riding

Gourmet Paradise!

Savor nature's bounty here with branded meats such as wine beef and Fuji sakura pork accompanied by fine sake, wine or whiskey!

MAP

Yamanashi Makibakoen Farm Garden

4

High-altitude burger Frolic with sheep, goats and ponies on this sprawling farm 1,400m above sea level with views of the Southern Alps and Mt. Fuji. Then fill up on farm fresh foods such as wine beef (cows fed crushed wine grape remains) stew or the Kiyosato Jumbo Burger made from local vegetables and the juicy, tender and succulent Fuji Sakura pork.

Park Hours: 9am – 5pm (April 18 – Nov 10, closed Mon and public holidays) Restaurant Hours: 10am – 6pm (April 1 – Nov 10), 11am – 4pm (Dec 1 – March 31) Access: 10-min by taxi from Kiyosato Station.

URL: http://www.yatuboku.jp/makiba/ (Japanese)

Contains a slab of juicy Fuji Sakura bacon, tender wine beef patty and crunchy local vegetables.

Shichiken Yamanashi Meijo Sake Brewery

MAP

5

The Emperor was here!

Sample sake fit for the Emperor at Shichiken, a Japanese sake brewery with over 300 years of history. In 1880, Emperor Meiji stayed at the brewery and the rooms designed especially for his visit have been left completely intact and are open for public viewing. See how sake is made here and the final product at the retail shop.

Even if you don’t drink the brewery runs a café and restaurant on site where you can enjoy a lunch of salmon marinated in sake malt, or have a healthy sake malt smoothie.

Moeginomura Brew Pub Restaurant ROCK

Salmon infused with sake malt at Daimin, 1,500 yen Sake malt smoothie from Koji’z, 400yen Hours: 9am – 5pm Access: 15-min by taxi from Nagasaka Station or Hinoharu Station.

URL: http://www.sake-shichiken. co.jp/eng_chn_kor.html

MAP

6

Curry and beer that rock your world!

Moeginomura is a sprawling area with various restaurants, shops and entertainment facilities that architecture recalls a rustic German village. Try the beef curry at Brew Pub Restaurant ROCK that features a giant slice of juicy bacon with a slab of raisin butter that melts into the curry to give it a rich taste. Best washed down with ROCK’s own award-winning craft beer, TOUCHDOWN.

Hot Hotel!

ROCK’s original craft beer won the prize of “Best beer of Asia” at the World Beer Awards of 2014.

Access: An 8-min walk from Kiyosato Station.

URL: http://www.moeginomura.co.jp/index2.html (Japanese)

You'd be tempted to stay in your hotel room all day at Hotel Keyforest.

Fortunately there's lots to do on the hotel grounds as well!

Hotel Keyforest

Free entry for hotel guests.

MAP

Be one with art and nature

7

Hokuto City surprises with this avant-garde boutique hotel opened in September this year.

Choose from six rooms inspired by the six natural elements representing Hokuto - sky, wind, sunlight, boscage, earth and water. The hotel bar boasts more than 200 bottles of vintage whiskeys. Don’t miss the world’s sole Keith Haring pop art collection on site here.

Access: 5-min by Yatsugatake Kogen Resort bus or taxi from Kobuchizawa station.

URL: http://www.artkeith.com/keyforest-jp/ WAttention Tokyo

27

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complicated enough, As if the Japanese language wasn’t cky translating. tri me so for ke ma o als n ca s re stu Japanese ge rious movements mean in Can you figure out what these myste ttom for answers) bo ee (S ? low be de ra pa e ad ar ch the

BByyee bbyyee

A

B

! e m o C

E x cuse me B

Fist bump

C

C

A

C

28

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3

4

n Walk like a

Egyptian A

NNOO!!!!

B

NNiinnjjaa ppoossee

Correct

Ballet cing dan

WAttention Tokyo

C

X-man!

Answers: 1. B Come here 2. A Excuse me 3. B Correct, Yes 4. A Incorrect, No

B

Morning stretch

1

Karate CHOP!

T O K Y O M U S T D O Explore Tokyo through the eyes of Tokyoites as they share their favorite secret hideaways.

Tian Zhong Ing Zhong Ing was born in Sarawak, Malaysia and came to Japan when she was 19. She studied civil engineering in Hyogo Prefecture and Aichi Prefecture for 5 years, during which time she fell in love with the izakaya culture. Since graduating, she has been working at an izakaya in Tokyo, to pursue her new dream of opening a restaurant in the future.

1 Izakaya

3 Karaoke Robatayaki Zekkocho Teppen Shinjuku https://savorjapan.com/0006044941/ 5-min. walk from JR Shinjuku Station East Exit

Izakayas are places where you can have beers and meals for local people, and they can be pretty much found everywhere. The best izakaya I know is Zekkoucho Teppen, the place I am working at currently! I love working amidst the laughter-filled atmosphere, where people can feel free to be themselves.

Also, not only is the food delicious (the grilled fish is the best!), but the workers here are very energetic and kind. Your energy will be refreshed with the bright ambiance, and you will leave with a big smile on your face, I promise.

Since you came to Japan, why don’t you try something that originated here? As many foreigners visit Japan, now they have a lot of English, Chinese and Korean songs you can sing along to as well. Food and drinks are provided, which you can order via the phone inside your private room. Just be sure to check the price beforehand, as it often varies depending on the day and time.

4

Tsukiji Market

Tsukiji is known as one of the world’s largest fish markets, and you only have until Nov. 2016 to catch it before it moves locations to Toyosu! Handling over 2,000 varieties of marine produce as well as fruits and vegetables, there’s an inner market where wholesale business and the famous tuna auction takes place, and an outer market where you can find many retail shops and restaurants. The tuna auction is very popular, and open to customers from 5:25am to 6:15am with registration starting at 5am, so if you want to see it, you better be as early as even 4-4:30am.

Afterwards, be sure to grab a kaisendon (seafood covered rice bowl), which is incredibly fresh and cheap here!

Tsukiji Market http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm 5-min. walk from Tsukiji Station

2 PABLO To all cheesecake lovers, you will definitely not want to miss out on the cheese tarts here. The taste is supreme and you can even choose the bake—rare or medium. They are very light and melt so quickly in your mouth that you will surely go for seconds. Did I mention they’re also cheap? Go check it out!

▲Oven Fresh Cheese Tart 850 yen (tax included)

PABLO Shinjuku http://www.pablo3.com/english.html 1-min. walk from JR Shinjuku Station West Exit in the Shinjuku Metro Shokudougai B2.

WAttention Tokyo

29

Words of Japan

vol.04

When nothing is everything

「無事」 一年の締めくくりに、 感謝の気持ちを込めて ・ ・ ・ Buji - Giving thanks as the year comes to an end To say that "nothing happened" does not usually sound like good news or something to give thanks for. But for somebody who had faced a great trial or danger, for things to remain as they are is considered fortunate. In Japan, the word「無事」, pronounced as buji, is often used

by Japanese in everyday life and its closest meaning to English is “nothing happened” –「事」meaning an event or happening, and「無」meaning a lack of.

It’s used in phrases such as “It’s a relief that nothing untoward happened”, or “Hope that things go peacefully” to people who are caught in a trying situation. It expresses a hope or thankfulness for things to remain as they are, for health, peace and stability to be maintained.

Buji is also commonly used in Zen Buddhism. In such cases, the word takes on a deeper meaning of “not seeking salvation from outside”. People who do not pursue external desires but who are in touch with one’s true feelings are deemed to have reached the highest form of enlightenment.

That is, by freeing oneself from external desires one can gain true peace and nobility.

Profile of Koran Onishi

People who constantly feel “I wish I could meet someone better” or “I wish people praised me more” are always seeking something or validation from the world.

However, as expressed by buji in Zen Buddhism, one should not seek fulfilment from external sources but reflect upon what one can do or change within oneself. With such a state of mind, a weight is lifted off one’s shoulders and puts one uncannily at ease. After all, fixatedly pursuing something usually just puts it further out of reach.

With the aim of expressing this abandonment of one’s external coveting to find tranquility and peace, the calligrapher has chosen a simple approach, like that of a guileless child playing around while writing in an easygoing fashion.

With the year coming to an end and a new year fast approaching, it’s time to give thanks for an uneventful year. To welcome another peaceful year ahead, the author presents you the phrase, buji.

A contemporary Japanese calligrapher who has received numerous accolades, such as the Shodo Geijutsuin first prize, and most recently the Excellent Work Award at the 67th Mainichi Shodo Competition. Also a member of the Kansai Calligraphy Association and a jury member of the Shodo Geijutsuin.

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