WAttention Tokyo Vol. 27

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FREE 2018 Spring issue VOL.27

Culture Special SPECIAL FEATURE 1

SPECIAL FEATURE 2

Bathing Culture Shinjuku – A City Of Rebirth

Short Trip From Tokyo:

Mt. Fuji and Lovely Mountain resorts

こよみを楽しむ

暦 Koyomi End of March through April

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

O ut door t ea session s (Nodat e) 野点

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、 写真:渡辺肇

In the days of old, when winter turned

And so as time went by, this tradition

to spring and the weather turned mild and

of picnicking under fully-bloomed sakura

as green shoots of grass and flora are

agreeable, and when various flowers started

trees, or having a cup of matcha or sencha

sprouting is an elegant pastime unique to

to bloom, the Japanese would head out to

outdoors became known as nodate.

the Japanese who are keenly in tune with

the fields and hills with their bentos, and sometimes with tea and sweets.

Such immersion of oneself in nature

the changes of the seasons.

Savouring tea, enjoying conversation and sometimes reciting poetry on fine

This was also in the belief that those had departed from this world to the next, via the

and fair spring days accompanied by a refreshing breeze.

mountains and sky, would descend from the mountains during this period, and it was a chance to meet and greet them.

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

WAttention Tokyo

01

Why“WAttention”?

WAttention is named so with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA （和）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself!

VOL.27

世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention） してほしいという 願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Contents

01

In Harmony with the Seasons

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.

03

Tokyo Hot News

Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

04

10

16

Feature 1

Feature 2

Bathing Culture - from Edo Sento to Tokyo Sento - Why I Love Sento an interveiw with Stephanie Crohin: Sento Ambassador

Editorial Team Nancy Liu, Ellen Hwang, Cuauhtemoc Velazquez, Zoria Petkoska

Shinjuku

Language Consultant Jaid Mathews, Jude Austin

- A City of Rebirth - Keeping Pace with Time Bearing Witness to the Changes - Isetan Shinjuku Store / Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo / Shinjuku Nakamuraya - Shinjuku as a Transportation Hub

Design Team Graphic Designers

Kenji Ishida, Michiko Otomo, Haruna Katahira, Ochiai Aki Leonor, Yan Qiao Chew Photographers

Another 3hr Trip - How to Make the Best of 3 Hours in Tokyo -

Kenji Sugasawa, Keiji Okazaki, Noboru Hanamura, Hajime Watanabe

Shinjuku-Iidabashi / Shibuya / Night Life

21

Robot Restaurant

22

Shot Trip from Tokyo

Sales & Marketing Naoki Kiyota, Yuri Nakazawa, Doris Lo Special thanks Rieko Ido

22-23 Mt. Fuji in Spring: Flowers in Full Bloom 24-25 Mysterious, powerful water originating from Mt. Fuji and the Japan Alps

27

Go beyond Tokyo to Discover Amazing Yokohama

28

Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art

広告・記事に関するお問い合わせは 和テンション株式会社 〒150-0002 東京都渋谷区渋谷2-3-8 倉島渋谷ビル401号 Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) / 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com

Perfect Harmony between Museum and Garden

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In This Issue

Spring 2018

Hundreds of years ago, when Tokyo was known as Edo, bathing was a popular recreation among people living in the Tokyo area. Although foreign travelers visiting Japan today are interested in taking a dip in hot springs, less is known about soaking in a good sento, or Japanese public bath. Learn about the culture and tradition of bathing in Tokyo and you will see Tokyo in a different light.

bustling and colorful places in the world? Follow our footsteps as we trace back to the birth of this spontaneous city. 東京が江戸と呼ばれていた時代から、東京人はお風呂が大好きでした。

日本を訪れる外国人の多くが温泉に興味を持っています。でも、昔も東

京人が愛してやまない「銭湯」には、東京ならではの文化があります。東

京の入浴文化の奥深さを知ると、 また違った東京が見えてきます。 また、

第二特集では、訪日外国人が必ず一度は訪れる新宿を取り上げました。 世界でも稀な大繁華街である新宿に、人々はなぜ集うのか、わけをその

In this issue’s WAttention, we would also like to bring you a feature story on Shinjuku, a must-visit attraction for foreign travelers in Japan. Have you ever wondered how Shinjuku rose to one of the most

Don't miss out!

誕生からひも解いてみました。

-Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

編集長: 鈴木幸香

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TOKYO HOT

EWS

Bringing you the latest hot news

3 New Fashion Boutique Hotel Opens in Shibuya Newly opened on February 9, hotel koe tokyo is a multifunctional complex comprised of fashion, music, food and stay. On the 1st floor, there are an event space and a restaurant that combined with the food culture of Japan. In the evening from 9pm to 11pm, the apparel shop on the second floor transforms into an unmanned shop that customers are able to enjoy shopping with smart cash registers. The guest rooms are a modern interpretation of Japan’s traditional tea room. A stay here give you a different experience and insight into Japanese culture both modern and classic. http://hotelkoe.com/en/ Under the Wave off Kanagawa , Courtesy of the Sumida Hokusai Museum

1 Into the Water World of Hokusai Sumida Hokusai Museum will hold a special exhibition, “Phantasmagoric! Hokusai’s Water Wonderland”, to introduce the outstanding works of the Japanese ukiyo-e artist Katsushika Hokusai from April 24 to June 10. In addition to showcasing Under the Wave off Kanagawa, one of the most famous woodblock prints from Hokusai’s Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji series, the museum will also reveal works from A Tour of Waterfalls in Various Provinces series. Don’t miss out on this chance to explore Hokusai’s masterpieces and learn about his unique take on the world. http://hokusai-museum.jp/english/

©2018 SANRIO CO., LTD.

4 Hello Kitty Kabuki Musical to Premiere in March KAWAII KABUKI - Momotaro by the Hello Kitty Troupe will premiere at Sanrio Puroland on March 10. This is the first joint collaboration between Sanrio characters and a local kabuki troupe. This is your once-in-a-lifetime chance to see Sanrio characters get dressed in gorgeous kimono costumes and put on a kabuki makeup! https://en.puroland.jp/special/kawaiikabuki_lang/index_en.html

2 Photogenic Flower-viewing Bento Box SHARI THE TOKYO SUSHI BAR’s special flower-viewing bento box will go on sale for a limited time from February 19 to April 28.

This bento box is like no other, as only the freshest ingredients in Japan are used. Exquisite bite-size sushi rolls are carefully put into divided partitions just like glittering gems tucked in a jewelry box. This is a photogenic sight you have to share with friends and family on the social media. Make your reservation today to taste the flavor of spring! ! http://restaurant.novarese.jp/shari-ginza/ (Japanese)

5 A Whole New Viewing Experience at Tokyo Tower To celebrate 60 years of its opening in 2018, Tokyo Tower began renovating its special observatory deck in 2016. Renamed as the “Top Deck,” the 250 meter observatory is slated to re-open on March 3, with a new guided tour called “Top Deck Tour.” Make a reservation beforehand to experience a modern Tokyo with geometric mirrors and LED lights. Walking in the Top Deck will make you feel as if you are floating in the sky! https://www.tokyotower.co.jp/en.html

©TOKYO TOWER

WAttention Tokyo

03

Culture Special

Bathing Culture A nice hot bath is universally enjoyed and communal bathing has been a cultural element in various times and places in history. People have enjoyed bathing together in Ancient Greece, the Roman Empire, the Ottoman Empire,from the Middle East to Scandinavia, from Britain to Russia and Japan and so on. Times and cultures are changing, but public bathing culture in Japan is

still alive and kicking and sticking closely to some of its longer standing traditions. Nowadays in Japan, communal bathing is mainly divided into three categories: onsen, sento and super sento bath, the last being something in between the first two. Sento are an integral element of city life. We explored its history and its modern appeal in the Tokyo of today.

The History of Sento A lot of people from various cultures have felt that bathing cleans more than just their bodies; there is also a feeling of cleansing your mind and soul. This is no coincidence, since bathing rituals in various shapes are present in many religions – from Christian baptisms to ritual baths in the Ganges river. In Japan as well, the origins of bathing are both ritual and Religious coming from Buddhism practices, but water is also a common purifier in Shinto myths. In time, the idea of bathing spread with Teikoku-Yu Š_ s t e p h a n i e m e l a n i e _

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WAttention Tokyo

noblemen constructing private baths in their homes during

Utagawa Toyokuni I

"Women and an Infant Boy in a Public Bath House" 1799

the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The invention of “mushiburo”

Tokugawa Shogunate tried to regulate or outright outlaw the

or “steam bath” in caves at the same time, and popularizing

mixed bathing several times as customer interaction grew into

communal bathing for the masses culminated in the vibrant

fraternizing that the Edo Bakufu goverment deemed immoral.

sento culture of the Edo period. The first sento was recorded in 1591, just a year after Tokugawa Ieyasu who would become Shogun later entered the city of Edo(old Tokyo).

Edo Sento Sento in the Edo period(1603-1868) spread so much that

Although it was very common and natural for men, women and children to bathe naked together at first, the changing services of the 'bath ladies' or 'yuna' brought the immoral element that the Tokugawa Shogunate and religious missionaries disliked. The services of 'yuna' were just sento related at first, helping with

it 's apparent in many writings from the time that even

washing backs and fetching water. This job was later relegated

the poorest people could afford to go at least once a day.

to 'sansuke' later, which were exclusively young men. However, a

Cleanliness became a great value of the society and it was

custom emerged of closing sentos in the afternoon and admitting

noted and praised by many foreign visitors at the time who

only certain customers who paid extra to be entertained by the

wrote travel diaries, stories, and reports etc on Edo. What

'bath ladies'. These women now changed into fancier clothes,

some of the more puritanical visitors criticized in sento culture

played shamisen, and eventually retired to the second floor with

was the lack of segregation of genders in the bathing space.

customers. The Edo Bakufu first tried to limit the number of

Very often the changing room and bathing room in Edo sento

'yuna' per onsen, but when they were unsuccessful they ended

bath houses were not clearly separated, merging in a single

up completely banning 'yuna' in 1657 and many of them moved

area. Some sento owners imposed different bathing hours for

to the Yoshiwara red light district of the time. Sentos in the rich

men and women, some declared men-only bath houses and

Yamanote area retained the second floor and used it for drinking

rarely woman-only one, while others tried to separate female

tea, playing shogi and socializing, but the two-story structures

and male baths by a very low simple board partition. Even the

eventually disappeared in the Meiji era.

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From Edo Sento to Tokyo Sento The new and improved sento The Edo sento differs from sento today because of changes

At the time of writing this article it is estimated that the current

made during and after the Meiji period(1868-1912). The Edo

number of sentos is between 600 and 700, and yet they sentos

sento was smaller, darker and steamier, but the rules and

survive in the modern era because they still offer something

steps of cleaning yourself and the feeling of community and

more than just bathing – cleansing, relaxation and a sense of

interacting in the common spaces stayed the same to this day.

community. A sento offers a feeling at the end of the day that

People with sento-related jobs like the bandai (receptionist)

we are all only humans after all and we are together.

and the sansuke and yuna (male and female sento assistant, respectively) have disappeared today, but the variety of baths and convenience have increased. During the transition from Edo period to Meiji period, sentos lost their second floor common space and genders became strictly segregated, and that's is the sento of Tokyo today.

The Tokyo sento compared to the Edo sento grew bigger, more spacious, with higher walls and ceilings and more open space. The partition between male and female baths grew taller, and windows were installed to actually let the steam out. The steam baths became a different type of bath offered along with the hot water baths, together with saunas, bubble baths, electricity baths, jacuzzi jets, silky water baths and so on. The bigger the sento the more options there are. Some

Torii Kiyonaga

"Interior of a Bathhouse" 1787

sentos even have a 'rotenburo' – an open air bath outside in

d

the garden, something a lot of people associate more with the onsen bath houses.

O f course, with the improvement of overall technology and general modernization, in the Taisho era sentos became tiled and thus easier to clean, and with the new water system it

f

became easier to fill the baths and heat the water. They simply and truthfully called them 'the improved bath'. During the Showa period showers started being installed in sentos and

g

baths in people's private houses. In the 1960s in Tokyo there were as many as 2687 sentos, but their popularity and the numbers of sentos decreased over the years as the private baths at home became more widespread and more convenient.

Mysteries of Sento

Q Why do Japanese people like the water temperature to be so hot?

A The temperature of the water at sento had been regulated by the metropolitan ordinance to not be lower than 42℃ . This was revised in 2012, but still most of the sentos follow this guideline.

Q Why is it common to drink cold milk after having a bath in a sento?

A In the late 1950’s, a dairy products maker asked sentos to sell cold Coffee Milk because they had fridges in sentos, which was rare in Japan at that time.

Q Can foreign visitors/tourists enter and use a sento?

A Yes.

Q How often is the water at sento changed? And how?

A At least once a day, and for circulating baths at least once a week, as prescribed by the metropolitan ordinance.

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Teikoku-Yu ©_ s t e p h a n i e m e l a n i e _

Sento Keywords a BANDAI The space dividing the male bath . The person overlooking the male and female bath area from a high chair that site between. This person is works as a receptionist and cashier. In the past all sentos had a bandai person, but now it has been replaced by a reception desk at the entrance of the sentos. However, even nowadays small sentos with a bandai person remain, although they’re extremely rare.

b TOMEOKE Tomeoke can have two meanings. Firstly a private oval oke bucket that you use to pour water on yourself in the sento. That water is for rinsing yourself after scrubbing your body. Secondly in the past, oke buckets that richer families would pay extra money to the sento to keep them aside only for their private use.

d SANSUKE

g TENUGUI

A male bathhouse assistant to both male and female sento-goers in charge of preparing buckets of rinsing water, scrubbing customers' backs and taking care of the waiting list. Sansuke replaced 'yuna' girls who originally had this job, but after some time they also started giving sexual services and that prompted the authorities at the time to ban them. Sansuke were paid well and had a high position in the sento, previously having gone through responsibilities such as maintaining bath temperature. Today there are no sansuke in the sento.

Tenugui is a narrow and long Japanese cotton cloth mainly used as a towel, washcloth, or dishcloth, It can also be used as a decoration, as wrapping, and a headband etc. Tenugui always have some kind of design or pattern and new designs keep coming out, often featuring pop culture elements. There is a revival of buying and selling tenugui, as they also make very good souvenirs and gifts.

h FUROSHIKI This versatile cloth can transform in many things and it has been a convenient item in the life of every Japanese person since the Nara period.

It has several sizes, from small to extra large and it can be made of various fabrics like silk, cotton, and polyester. Depending on how you tie it, it can become a great gift wrap, a sturdy bag, a backpack, a bento bag, or a bottle carrier.

You can even transport a whole watermelon in a neatly tied furoshiki! But the 'furo' in 'furoshiki' stuck because one of its uses is carrying all your bathing supplies. Furoshiki have many designs and you can even wear them as accessories or use them as decoration. There are also various ways to tie them, from simpler to intricate ones.

Above all, this magical shape shifting cloth is not only stylish and convenient, but also eco-friendly because it is reusable and it renders plastic bags unnecessary.

e ZAKUROGUCHI Zakuroguchi, meaning “pomegranate entrance”, is an entrance to the bath area at a typical Edo style sento. Actually, the sento that a lot of Japanese people know and believe to be traditional is slightly changed from the Meiji period. This entrance was very low in order to leave the least open space possible so that the heat of the water and the steam don't escape. In the Meiji period the bath became open, the walls and ceilings became high and there were even windows to let the steam escape, hence the zakuroguchi disappeared.

f NUKABUKURO c OKAYU This is the clean water used to rinse yourself after scrubbing, scooped up by the oke bucket.

This was the last step before you could enter the sento bath.

Nukabukuro is a body scrubbing tool, with a similar purpose of a today's loofah sponge. It is really a 'bukuro' or a bag filled with rice bran and it has exfoliating properties. In the past it was mostly used by women in the sento. Nukabukuro are being sold even today, of course with some new designs.

e

a c

h b

Toyohara Kunichika

"Naked bodies compared to irises in hot water, comparing hips to a snow laden willow in hot water." 1868

Q What is the off-peak time to visit a sento?

A It depends on the sento. In general, they are less busy from 7 pm to 8:30 pm, which is usually dinner time, and around midnight.

Q What are the health benefits of going to a sento?

A Sento relaxes muscles, increases blood circulation, helps body

“THE FUROSHIKI - A Comprehensive Guide” 280 yen/JAPAN FUROSHIKI ASSOCIATION Available at TOKYO KARAKUSAYA, Morimoto building, 7-2, NihonbashiTomizawa-cho, Chuo, Tokyo, 103-0006

Q Is it common to have a mixed sento with both men and women together?

A No, not for sentos in Tokyo, but there are some super sentos where you can put swim wear on and go in a mixed bath.

weight loss and more.

Q Can people with tattoos enter a sento?

A Yes. Sento don’t discriminate against people with tattoos, but the super sentos and onsens do.

Q How long should we stay in the bath water (optimal duration)?

A It depends on the temperature and the purpose. For example, it is thought that 10 minutes in a 42℃ bath would be good for relaxing your body from fatigue.

Teikoku-Yu ©_ s t e p h a n i e m e l a n i e _

WAttention Tokyo

07

Why I Love © Jordy Meow

– an interview with Stephanie Crohin Official Sento Ambassador

Sento

This is a love story of sorts, it truly is. Stephanie Crohin was invited by friends to experience a Japanese public bath or 'sento' one day, took the offer and was charmed by the effects the sento bath houses have on body and mind by providing wellness and feelings of community. Now Stephanie is an official 'sento ambassador', spreading sento culture, promoting not so well-known sento places, documenting the uniqueness and coziness of each one and publishing it all in a book.

How It All Began

As many love stories on the silver screen go, Stephanie was

not aware at first that she will would end up here where she is now. She first visited a sento place during her period as an exchange student in Japan and after her stay came to an end, Stephanie left Japan without knowing whether she would return. But she did and found herself still drawn to the sento culture. She loves every aspect of it, starting with the health benefits and the availability of these places spread around

The Sento Inside And Out

A not her

char m of t he s ento is t hat i t is a place of

Tokyo. She estimates that there are roughly 560 sentos now in

community. Sentos are almost always small mom-and-pop

the Tokyo area, although that number is very hard to pinpoint,

businesses with owners who pour a lot of love in the sento

because they are closing down. That in itself was a big part of

and sento-goers are usually from that same area. It might

her motivation to spread the word about sento, both among

seem counterintuitive to many, as bathing is seen as a private

Japanese people and visitors.

experience in the West, but at the sento it is good manners

Sento Anywhere And Everywhere

In the past the sento was indispensable, but nowadays

people's houses come with baths, so going out to the sento is becoming an ever more rare occurrence. However, there are still many reasons to go to a sento, with one of the biggest being that you can soak in a bath anywhere in the city. This is why Stephanie started the hashtag #dokodemosento, meaning “sento anywhere”, under which she posts photos of sentos on Instagram. Wherever you are, you can go to the nearest sento, buy or rent towels and toiletries at the reception, which are always quite cheap, relax and refresh and continue with your day. In a metropolis like Tokyo this is convenient as it would be really hard going back home just for a bath. Of course you can always bring your own towel and favorite cosmetics.

Many frequent sento-goers pack their own sento-set. Sentos offer drinks and food that you can consume in the common spaces, sometimes with a garden too, and you can also use the

to say a simple 'konnichiwa' to the others. In the bath even Stephanie was embarrassed to be naked with others the first time she went to, a sento, but the feeling soon dissipated when she saw that nobody cared about that. She also loves how sentos look, especially from the inside. In her book she documents the different art inside the baths:, such as mosaics, majolica tiles, and painted art etc. She wishes more people paid attention to this art as it is handmade and sometimes has deeper meaning. After the Tohoku earthquake some sentos in Tokyo ordered art depictions of Tohoku landscapes as a way to support and cheer for the region that was now struggling to rebuild. Sometimes sentos get creative and quirky like a sento in Kamata that had art featuring Godzilla, but sadly that sento recently closed down. But by far the most popular sento art depiction in the Kanto area is Mount Fuji. Stephanie says it all started with the art in a sento in Kanda, Tokyo, and people liked it so much that the fashion spread.

automatic massage chairs that many sentos have. The combined

The architecture of some sento buildings is beautiful as well,

expense of the entrance ticket (a flat fee of 460 yen at every

but even when the building does not look particularly fancy

sento), towel rental and a drink will not go above a 1000 yen at

from the outside, Stephanie's advice is not to judge a book by

the most places. A good hot bath is the best cure for jetlag and

its cover. At the sento, inside is more important than outsides.

muscle pains and heading straight for a sento from the airport

Small businesses sometimes can't afford to invest in both, so

after a flight is a life-hack that Stephanie shared with us.

they always choose to focus on the interior.

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5 key points to enjoy your first visit to a sento

❶ Mental preparation: Don't be shy, in sento culture it's normal to be naked ❷ Manners and community: Greet the other people in the sento,

be careful not to put your towel in the water and don't drip in the changing area ❸ Things to carry with you: Bring your favorite toiletries, you can also rent or buy them from the sento ❹ Art: Pay attention to the art inside the bathing area ❺ Relax: No need to hurry – have a drink and enjoy the common space after your bath

Start with these 3!

Mikoku-Yu A designer's sento in Sumida that adds modern Japanese design elements and a luxurious feel. Right in the heart of old Edo and from some par ts of the sento TOKYO SKYTREE can be seen.

©_stephaniemelanie_

3-30-8, Ishiwara, Sumida, Tokyo 130-0011 TEL: 03-3623-1695 Open: 15:30-26:00 Closed on Mon., next day of holiday

Teikoku-Yu This retro sento in Nippori can conjure up feeling nostalgic with its art.

3-22-3, Higashi-Nippori, Arakawa, Tokyo 116-0014 TEL: 03-3891-4637 Open: 15:00-24:00 Closed on Mon. Teikoku-Yu ©_stephaniemelanie_

Sento For All

©_stephaniemelanie_

Above all, a sento is a place that is accepting of everyone.

Chiyo-No-Yu

You can find many generations in a single sento, and most

This sento in Mitaka has a nostalgic feel, but also a lot of different baths and even open air baths in a garden.

sentos don't discriminate against people with tattoos. This fact might not be well known, but will surely come as great news to many people with tattoos. Stephanie has talked to

2-4-31, Iguchi, Mitaka, Tokyo 181-0011 TEL: 0422-39-1010 Open: Mon. to Fri. 15:30-23:30 Sat. Sun. Holiday 13:00-23:30 Last entry: 23:00

many people who are regretting not trying a sento at the time of their visit to Japan as they believed that they wouldn't have been admitted because of their tattoos.

For first-timers in a sento, Stephanie has a couple of words

©_stephaniemelanie_

of advice; overcome your shyness, mind the sento rules and

Reborn Sento

manners; but most importantly, enjoy the experience by taking in the art and spending time in the common spaces.

For people trying to find a sento to go to, Stephanie advises

SCAI THE BATHHOUSE

simply typing the word 'sento' into a map app and it will give you a number of sentos around you. Or you can follow her Instagram and #dokodemosento hashtag for her personal recommendations and exclusive photos from inside the

A renovated old bathouse with over 200 years of history is reborn as a gallery that shows contemporary art and supports young artists as well established ones.

It's convenient located downtown and close to the Ueno area that is famous for its many museums and an art university.

6-1-23 Yanaka, Taito, Tokyo 110-0001 Tel: 03-3821-1144 info@scaithebathhouse.com http://www.scaithebathhouse.com Open:12:00 - 18:00 Closed on Sun. Mon. Holiday

bathing area. No matter what you do,give sento a try and see for yourself the sento culture that Stephanie loves so much!

Photo by Norihiro Ueno. Courtesy of SCAI THE BATHHOUSE

Stephanie Crohin Sento author, journalist/official sento ambassador since 2015. Sento news & daily life in Tokyo dokodemosento.com IG: _stephaniemelanie ”Sento Wa Chiisana Bijutsukan” (Sentos are small museums) Keibunsha-shobo This book offers a unique and exclusive peek into different sentos, with beautiful photographs and introductions of families who run them, sento-goers and artists who paint the sentos murals. The book currently only available in Japanese, but the photos themselves speak a universal language.

HiTAKiBA This retro Showa sento has been reborn as a gallery where you could enjoy an exhibition. It will be reopened as a cafe gallery in this fall. Check the website for more information.

2-19-8, Nezu, Bunkyo, Tokyo 113-0031 http://cirq-cirq-cirq.com/ Opens in time with exhibitions WAttention Tokyo

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Shinjuku

– A City Of Rebirth

Utagawa Hiroshige "Naito Shinjuku at" Yotsuya 1857

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Shinjuku (especially the western part), including one of the most famous Japanese department stores, Isetan, which moved its headquar ters there in 1933. The sudden rise in Shinjuku’s population also created the need to expand the local train station, first established in 1885. Originally just a stop on the Akabane-Shinagawa Line (today part of the Shinjuku Station 1932

The humble origins of Shinjuku Tokyo’s Shinjuku is like no other place in the world, although many like to compare it to Las Vegas. On the surface, it’s easy to see why some people would make that comparison.

Yamanote loop), Shinjuku Station expanded to accommodate three new major train lines around 1923. It still wasn’t the convoluted maze that at times seems impossible to escape, like today’s Shinjuku Station, but it definitely marked the beginning of the area’s complete rebirth.

And then World War II happened.

Although Shinjuku isn’t a city in its own right, but

With the bombing of Tokyo, huge portions of Japan’s

rather one of 23 municipalities that make up the most

capital were destroyed. Some estimates claim that by the

populous parts of Japan's capital, it does enjoy the status

end of the war over 85% of Shinjuku and the buildings in the

of a city. Specifically, a city that lights up the sky every night

surrounding area were gone. But again, Shinjuku survived. In

with its colorful billboards advertising everything from game centers and family restaurants to seedy cruising grounds in Shinjuku’s infamous Kabukicho red-light district. It all happens under the watchful eye of Godzilla, Shinjuku’s official tourism ambassador, whose statue towers over the area Gracery Shinjuku. All in all, it sure does sound like Nevada’s pop-culture-themed Sin City.

But in reality, the Las Vegas comparison is superficial at best. When you take a closer look at Shinjuku and its history, it becomes clear that it should actually be famous for its resilience. For centuries now, Shinjuku has been attacked, shut down, and even bombed, but it always got up to adapt and reinvented itself, emerging from the ashes stronger than ever. That is the true legacy of Shinjuku, and it started

the 1960s, it became the symbol for post-war redevelopment, hav ing be en chos en as t he si te for t he c api t al ’s ne w decentralized business hub, eventuall y becoming the Shinjuku that we know today.

The complex puzzle of modern Shinjuku Nowadays, 11 out of Japan’s 40 tallest skyscrapers are located in West Shinjuku, one of the busiest business districts in the world. Over the years, the distinct skyline has come to represent not just the area but also all of Tokyo and, in a broader sense, everything that is modern about Japan.

Then there are the ward’s art centers, theaters, world class restaurants and more. All of which stand in direct

hundreds of years ago.

contrast to Shinjuku’s more lowbrow history of prostitutes,

Let’s back up a little. Around the 16th century, people

been built on the foundation of contradictions. It was a

traveling to especially faraway places would use the “kaido”, a system of highways that crossed the country, connecting important city centers and government holdings. And just like with modern highways, the system was supported by a number of “pit-stop” inn-towns along the way, i.e. inn-towns known as shukubamachi that provided lodging, drinks, and entertainment to travelers. One such inn-town was eventually created by the government from confiscated lands belonging to the Naito clan, hence its name: Naito Shinjuku (“Naito’s

alcohol, and other vices. That ’s because Shinjuku has strategically and politically important inn-town, which also became famous thanks to prostitution and horse manure.

It was the place of Japan’s postwar economic rebirth, and features to this day, one of the biggest concentration of seedy bars in the country. It’s also home to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, and just a stone’s throw away is another of Shinjuku’s landmarks known as the “Omoide Yokocho”, which means “Memory Lane”

New Inn/Lodgings”)

In short, it’s a place that mixes modernity with tradition,

Rising from the ashes

this remains in constant flux, changing and giving way to the

Shinjuku continued to grow, but until the 1920s, the area

that’s how things are now. How will they look in a few years?

could only boast a water purification plant and little else, infrastructure wise. Then in 1923 the Great Kanto Earthquake happened, resulting in more than 140,000 deaths and so much damage to Tok yo that the Japanese government actually considered moving the capital to another city. But Japan persevered and soon started to rebuild. That’s when the country’s eyes fell on Shinjuku, which suffered only minor damages in the quake.

The area was quickly designated as a new “sub center” of Tokyo, and in no time became a symbol of post-quake revitalization. New businesses and people started to flock to

and the highbrow with the mundane and common. All of other, but never losing that distinct Shinjuku feel. At least, Nobody knows, but it will probably always feel like Shinjuku, because that’s what this unique technically-not-a-city city does. It goes through these constant cycles of rebirth while always remaining true to its complicated, convoluted, and contradictory history.It goes through these constant cycles of rebirth while always remaining true to its complicated, convoluted, and contradictory history.

So be sure to give it a visit, if you ever get the chance.

Provided you can find your way out of Shinjuku Station.

By Cezary Jan Strusiewicz WAttention Tokyo

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Keeping Pace with Time Bearing Witness to the Changes Isetan Shinjuku Store

Isetan’s iconic shopping bag

Fashion Pioneer Isetan Shinjuku Store is a grand building that has been standing at the intersection of Shinjuku San-chome since 1933, bearing witness to the everchanging streetscape as well as being a leader in Japan’s fashion trends. The department store started as a kimono shop that first opened in Kanda in 1886. Besides selling a variety of kimonos, the shop was known for providing its customers with fashion advice and redefining contemporary kimono culture. Years later, the shop has grown into Isetan, a department store that offers a wide range of consumer goods with refined quality. Today, Isetan is recognized as one of the forerunners in fashion, taking pride in its excellent taste and extraordinary hospitality.

As a fashion pioneer, Isetan opened the first teenage fashion shop in Japan in the summer of 1956 and introduced Scottish tartan goods into the country, causing a sensation. Two years later, Isetan boldly adopted tartan as

Shinjuku’s main street circa 1935

its brand symbol, using the pattern as a motif for its paper shopping bag and hallmark. At the time, walking on the street with an Isetan paper bag in hand meant that a person was chic and in fashion. Even today, the bag is still loved by discerning fans. Tartan lovers can find exclusive tartan goods that are the product of collaboration between Isetan and other brands at Isetan Shinjuku Store. In 2013, the department store giant launched an original tartan called MacMillan/Isetan, earning recognition from the Scottish Register of Tartans and marking a new page in Japanese fashion.

Teeming with rich historical and cultural heritage, Isetan Shinjuku Store stands tall and strong in the face of a rapidly changing and modernizing world. In the past, Isetan ushered in the growth of Shinjuku and witnessed the area's rise to prosperity. Today, Isetan keeps pushing Shinjuku beyond its possibilities and continues to play a major role in its transformation.

Promotional Space “Park” in the present Isetan Shinjuku store

Isetan Philosophy in Everyday Life Isetan is a celebrated department store known for feats such as opening the first teenage fashion shop in Japan and creating a clothing size chart that standardized ready-to-wear clothing in collaboration with other stores. Isetan’s pioneering efforts in fashion continue to define its unique existence and contribution to the

An assortment of shrimp crackers wrapped in a Tartan paper, only available at Shinjuku Isetan store. 1,080 yen (tax incl.) / Keishindo

Isetan carries a wide range of kitchen knives made in Japan.

Japanese society. While visiting Isetan and appreciating the art of fashion, why not take the time to get acquainted with

Isetan Shinjuku Store

the concept of integrating it into everyday life as well? The fifth floor displays a wide

Hours: 10:30am-8pm

array of fashionable quality cutting knives

Address: Shinjuku 3-14-1, Shinjuku Access: 1-min walk from Tokyo Metro Shinjuku-Sanchome Station

and chopstick sets that have won the heart of visitors from all over the world.

Explore the sophistication of Japanese crafts and sundry goods here in Isetan.

URL: http://www.isetan.co.jp/int Chopstick set for couples (with Mt. Fuji chopstick holders) 5,400 yen

of Shinjuku

These legendary establishments are important landmarks of Shinjuku and continue to innovate and inspire.

Overlooking Shinjuku:

Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo

Japan started building skyscrapers and erecting tall buildings in the 1960s due to post-war economic boom. The area west of Shinjuku Station, also known as the new downtown area of Shinjuku, is representative of Japan’s many skyscraper districts. One of the buildings in the area worth mentioning is Keio Plaza Hotel. Opened in 1971, the hotel measures 170 meters in height and is the first high-rise hotel building in Japan.

Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo is designed with the concept that a hotel is where people meet and cultures interact.

Therefore, it prides itself as a “plaza” in a metropolitan city and has been a landmark of Nishi Shinjuku for nearly half a century. Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo not only serves as a witness to the development of Shinjuku but also provides top quality service and hospitality to tourists from all over the world.

Encounter the Exotic:

Shinjuku Nakamuraya

Founded in 1901, Nakamuraya was the gathering spot for many artists who influenced Japanese contemporary art and culture. For that reason, it became known as the "Nakamuraya Salon".

Address: 2-2-1 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku Access: 5-min walk from JR Shinjuku Station West Exit or Toei Oedo Line Tochomae Station B1 Exit

Where it all began for Shinjuku The busiest junc tion of Shinjuku-sanchome was known in the past as “Shinjuku Oiwake”. During the Edo period (1603-1868), this is where the road forked into Ome-kaido and Koshu-kaido, two of the five main highways connecting Tokyo and other regions. If you are interested in the exact parting point, take the pedestrian walk diagonally across from Isetan Shinjuku Store and you will f ind a big round mark that says “ Shinjuku Genpyo,” or the starting point of Shinjuku in Japanese.

This is the place from where Shinjuku grew into a thriving neighborhood.

Ask any Tokyoite about what to order when visiting Nakamuraya and you will surely hear the answer: “curry”. This classic favorites has been on the menu for over 90 years. Nakamuraya’s curry is especially popular not only because of its taste but also the history behind it.

In the early 20 th centur y, Nakamuraya founder Aizo Soma voluntarily gave Indian revolutionist Rash Behari Bose shelter at his shop. Bose provided a curry recipe from his mother country.

In 1927, Indian curry became a staple on Nakamuraya’s menu and has since been a popular specialty.

Nakamuraya definitely deserves an applause for its courage to put an exotic dish on the menu at a time when Japan was still very conservative and anti-foreign.

Hours: 11:00am-10:00pm (L.O 9:30pm) (Fri. Sat. and the day before holidays 11:00am-10:30pm, L.O 9:45pm) Address: B1, 3-26-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku (Resturant & Cafe Manna) Access: 2-min walk from JR Shinjuku Station or Tokyo Metro Shinjuku Station A6 Exit

WAttention Tokyo

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Shinjuku as a Transportation Hub

Nevertheless, Shinjuku Station, which is served

by JR Line, Seibu-Shinjuku Line, Keio Line, Odakyu Odawara Line, various subway lines and bus routes, is the major transit hub for all kinds of transportation headed for tourist attractions in the suburbs. Shinjuku Station is truly your gateway to all of Japan!

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Shinjuku Station is a massive maze, even for people living in Tokyo. The station has as many as 36 platforms, some 200 exits and numerous hallways. According to the Guinness Records, Shinjuku Station is the world’s busiest station, with an average of 3.64 million passengers per day. That’s about the same as the population of Germany’s capital Berlin! But a huge crowd is not the only reason for getting lost in the labyrinth.

Another reason is that the station is constantly under construction. Shinjuku Station first opened in 1885 as a stop on Kobu Tetsudo, a private railway which was later nationalized. However, some of the rail work remains unfinished. In fact, the construction of Shinjuku Station started earlier than Sagrada Familia, making it the largest unfinished architecture in the world. No wonder foreign visitors have trouble getting around this enormous swarming maze.

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Tokyo’s Natural Wonders: Mt Takao Shinjuku Station West Exit: Keio Line The Keio Line concourse is located on in the westernmost par t of the Shinjuku Station. A s the Keio New Line shares the same facilities with the Toei Shinjuku Line, if your final destination is Mt Takao, be sure to make your way to the Keio Line platform which is located on the underground floor of Keio Department Store at Shinjuku Station’s West Exit. Both special express or rapid trains travel to Mt Takao.

Get a bento box for hiking Keio Line ’s plat form is direc tly connec ted to Keio Department Store’s “depa-chika,” the basement floor where the delicatessen sec tion is located. Before embarking on a hiking adventure, why not grab a Japanese bento box or sandwich to have on the train?

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WAttention Tokyo

Café for railway fan ROMANCECAR café

To Renowned Hot Spring Resort: Hakone Shinjuku Station West Exit: Odakyu Line Odakyu Line concourse is parallel to JR platforms on the west side of Shinjuku Station. It is accessible from JR’s South Exit and West Exit. For Tokyoites, a day trip or weekend trip to Hakone on the limited express “Romancecar” is deemed a luxury getaway.

This café is inside the ticket gate and commands an unblocked view of “Romancecar” trains pulling in and out of the station. Sip on a cup of hot coffee and relax as trains depart before your eyes.

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Seibu Shinjuku Station is a part of Seibu Shinjuku PePe & Brick St. shopping complex. The stores are open until 10 pm or later. After a day’s outing, you won’t have to worry about what to eat or where to shop when arriving in Tokyo.

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Shinjuku Prince Hotel Seibu Shinjuku Main Exit

It ’s a bit dif ficult to get to Seibu-Shinjuku Station from Shinjuku Station. The stations, approximately 420 meters apar t from one another, are connec ted through t wo pedestrian underpasses called Metro Promenade and Shinjuku Subnade. You can also get out there from of Shinjuku Station’s East Exit on the ground floor. On your way to Kabukicho, you will see a 24-floor brick-red building called Shinjuku Prince Hotel. Seibu-Shinjuku Station is located on

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To Narita Airport: Shinjuku Station South Exit and New South Exit Shinjuku Station also has a platform for Narita Express which, compared to the Yamanote Line platform, is closer to Yoyogi Station, Travelers can access Narita Express through the newly opened New South Exit, which is opposite the South Exit and opposite a wide avenue called Koshu-kaido. For those coming from the southern part of Shinjuku Station, there is an underground passage which connects to the Narita Express platform.

To Mt Fuji: Shinjuku Station New South Exit: Expressway Bus

Renewal of Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center, Shinjuku West to bring convenience to travelers Beginning March 29, 2018, the Odakyu Group will make traveling for foreign tourists easier by setting up twice as many multilingual service counters as currently exist (English, Chinese and Korean are available on a daily basis while other languages depend on the day of the week). The center will also offer short-term baggage storage and sameday baggage shipping to airports and hotels in the Shinjuku. By the way, don’t forget to get your hands on discount transportation passes here!

Located in the southern part of Shinjuku Station, Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (Busta) is Japan’s largest bus terminal, handling 30,000 passengers per day. There are buses headed all over the country. If you are planning to visit the Mt Fuji area, the express bus is your best bet. After you arrive, make use of Fujikyuko bus passes that include destinations such as the fifth station of Mt Fuji, the Fuji five lakes area and many other attractions.

If you are using JR lines, New South Exit is the most convenient way to access the bus terminal. However, users of different railway lines might have difficulty spotting New South Exit and so should, go out of the Shinjuku Station South Exit and cross the pedestrian crossing.

Travel & Ticket Booking Counter inside Tokyo Tourist Information Center Busta Shinjuku The information center is on the third floor of Busta.

Why not stop by to check out all kinds of fun travel items, meal plans and discounted admission tickets for international travelers??

http://www.tourist-information-center.jp/tokyo/shinjuku/en/ WAttention Tokyo

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How to Make the Best of 3 Hours in Tokyo It is the last day of your trip and you have three hours left before departing for the airport. Don’t know what to do with the time?

WAttention did the homework for you. Here is a three hour itinerary that will leave you entertained, refreshed and with lots of memories of Japan!

From Shinjuku to Iidabashi·Kudanshita

新宿 飯田橋 九段下

1

!

With spring just around the corner, this is the right time to take a flower viewing trip! If you happen to be Shinjuku, the most ideal place is the Iidabashi and Kudanshita area, which is a 5 to 10-minute train ride away. Some of the must-sees include: the moat of the Edo castle with plenty of cherry blossoms, shrines filled with legendary stories Our recommended art t S walking course starts from JR Ichigaya Station, with the first stop being Sotobori Park.

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Sotobori Park 外濠公園 Sotobor i is the remains of the outer moat of the Edo castle. It was commissioned by Tokugawa

Sotobori Park

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scenic park with a 2 km walking path

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between JR Yotsuya Station and JR

neighborhood. During the Edo period,

Iidabashi Station. This curvy, stone-

Ushigome Mitsuke used to be one of the

lantern dotted path has a nice historical feel to it. Although known for

roads approaching the gate of the Edo castle.

a display of vivid shades of green all year round, it is most visited in

F or securit y reasons , guardhouses were

spring when cherry trees stretch their branches into the moat and their

set up to check on pedestrians crossing the

petals are blown around by the wind. The park is quite crowded during

Ushigomebashi Bridge. The other side of the

the flower viewing season so take the chance to visit when you can.

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Tokyo Daijingu Shrine 東京大神宮 Tokyo Daijingu Shrine was built in 1880 to worship Amaterasu, a deity related to the divine origin of

Ushigome Mitsuke & Ushigomebashi Bridge 牛込橋

bridge used to be a samurai residence area, can you imagine that?

4

the emperor, and other deities enshrined in the Ise Jingu Shrine. Tok yo Daijigu Shrine functions as a “yohaiden,” or hall for worship from afar in Japanese, for pilgrims who were not able to travel all the way to Ise Jingu Shrine in Mie Prefecture. As the shrine is the first in Japan to hold a Shinto wedding ceremony, it is especially popular among women wishing to get married.

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WAttention Tokyo

Nellie’s Book Store ネリーズブックストア Not far from Tokyo Daijingu Shrine is Nellie's Book Store, a unique bookstore that provides a wide range of English language teaching materials. It recently published a 416page English guidebook on Japan. For English readers with a heart for exploration, this is a must-have!

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Tsukudo Shrine 築土神社 Walk in the direction of Nigohanzaka from Tokyo Daijingu Shrine and you will come across a rare sight: a western architecture with a cross on it. Built in 1937 as the first seminary for Tokyo Lutheran Church, the building’s significance lies in that it is the only western chapel in Japan before World War II. From here, it might be a little bit difficult to spot Tsukudo Shrine, whose entrance is located next to a modern building called Kudan Airex Building. Tucked away from the bustles of the city, the shrine is as cozy as a secret garden. However, as the head of Taira-noMasakado, a samurai who died in a battle in the Heian period (794-1185), is enshrined here, the shrine has quite a few ghost stories to share.

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Horaiya Honten 宝来家 Horaiya Hoten is a confectionary shop that has been

making and selling traditional Japanese sweets since 1868. Located next to the premises of Yasukuni Shrine, the 130-year-old shop has

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a different menu every month, with flavors that reflect the change of season. Drop in for a feast for the eye and taste buds!

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Kudan-imoaraisaka さかぐち

Another shop worth mentioning is a rice cracker shop called Sakaguchi. Take the Yasukuni-dori, walk in the direction of Ichigaya Station and you will be greeted with this specialty store. Lovers of rice crackers beware, as there are no other branches, you have to visit in person for a taste of these crunchy snacks. Choose from a variety of flavors from the display cabinet or “Itoguchi Arare” for your friends back home.

pick up all the 10 flavors of their star product

Back to Ichigaya Station

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17

Shibuya 渋谷

1

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Shibuya is a well-known bustling entertainment district in Tok yo. For first time visitors, the seemingly chaotic pedestrian scramble in front of the station can be quite daunting. But for locals who are used to the traffic conditions, Shibuya is a rare gem that incorporates elements from both east and west. It never fails to enthrall and amazing discoveries are everywhere. The deeper you venture into the streets and alleys, the more fascinating the history and culture. Read on to discover a Shibuya you never known before!

KUNOICHI NINJA CAFÉ 忍者茶房 Just as the name Kunoichi (the Japanese term for female ninjas) suggests, this, is a place where visitors can learn about the history of ninja arts from the view point of a female practitioner and experience wielding a katana sword or throwing shuriken. At the café, you can enjoy delicious Japanese cuisine and desserts . *Services are subject to change in May

2 Konnoh Hachimangu Shrine 金王八幡宮 The shrine has been in Shibuya for a long time and its history can be traced back thousands of years. Both the Shaden and the Shinmon were built in 1612 and are well preserved. The main deity worshiped here is Emperor Ojin(from around the second century) and it is said that prayers about work are often answered. If you are tired of the Shibuya crowds, this is a great getaway to relax the mind and immerse yourself in history.

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Toguri Museum of Ar t 戸栗美術館 One of the few porcelain museums in Japan is actually right here in Shibuya and definitely worth a visit. The museum stands on the land formerly owned by the Nabeshima clan and houses a collection of 7,000 works from China and Korea as well as Imari and Nabeshima, made in Saga Prefecture. As the northwest part of Kyushu was known as Hizen Province in the past, the porcelain made in the area is also referred to as Hizen porcelain.

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WAttention Tokyo

Hen na Cafe 変なカフェ Newly opened in February, this is the Japan's first coffee shop where you can enjoy coffee freshly brewed and served by a robot barista. It became a global sensation overnight after debut its. For Japan, a robot-loving society, more and more shops run by robots are expected in the near future. Get your cup of filter drip coffee, Americano, chocolate or matcha flavored latte served by a single-arm robot here!

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Nabeshima Shoto Park 鍋島松 濤公園 The park was once a villa and Japanese tea garden owned by the Nabeshima family in today ’s Saga Prefec ture. Originally called “Shotoen,” the park was opened to the public in 1924. The extensive park is a delight to the eyes, with thickly planted cherry blossom trees, maple trees and a nostalgic water wheel next to the pond. The picturesque view almost makes you forget that you're still in the heart of Tokyo.

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Located in a quiet and not-so-busy area of Shibuya, Gallery TOM is a private art museum founded in 1984 to help visually impaired people experience art through their sense of touch. The gallery is a manifestation of Japanese thoughtfulness and attention to details. Stop by for a whole new experience in art!

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HMV Record Shop Shibuya HMV レコードショップ渋谷

Udagawacho is home to the world’s leading record street. If you are a fan of vinyl records, this is where you have to be! HMV Record Shop and many other record specialty shops are just behind Shibuya’s Tokyu Hands Store. Who knows, you might even bump into famous DJs on a treasure hunt to find rare records.

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Shibuya Niku Yokocho 渋谷肉横丁 Known as Japan’s largest meat themed park, Shibuya Niku Yokocho has gathered 26 restaurants specializing in all kinds of meat cuisine, ranging from chicken, deep fried meat tempura, sushi made with fresh beef, and even horse meat. Eager carnivores, get ready to go restaurant hopping and eat plenty of meat!

Back to Shibuya Station WAttention Tokyo

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3 Hours

of Nightlife Fun in Tokyo

It is the last day of your trip and you have three hours left before departing for the airport. Don’t know what to do with the time?

WAttention did the homework for you. Here is a three hour itinerary that will leave you entertained, refreshed and with lots of memories of Japan!

Relaxing & Romantic

Secret Night Spots

Nighttime Flower Viewing

Toshimaen 豊島園 T his amus ement p ar k fea t ure s g o r g e o u s S o m e i - Yo s h i n o a n d Yaezakura cherr y trees. During “ S akura Night s ”, f ull y - bloomed cherry blossoms are lit up, creating an enchanting atmosphere. You can also ride the attractions while taking in the beautiful scenery.

Nakano-dori 中野通り About 300 blooming cherry trees extend for 2 kilometers from Nakano Station’s Nor th Exit, through the grounds of Araiyakushi, and to Shin Ome-kaido. Once you are at Nakanodori, you can’t miss the beautiful row of cherry trees that attract the beholder at the first sight. This is the time of the season to be in Tokyo for a feast of colors and fragrance.

There are tons of off-the-beaten-places to visit in Tokyo especially in the evening. Forget about Tokyo Skytree, Roppongi Hills Sky Deck and other touristy destinations and venture into the following local attractions.

Rainbow Bridge レインボーブリッジ Odaiba has a 115-meter tall Ferris wheel with a spectacular view of the illuminated Rainbow Bridge.

To get a closer look at the magnificent Rainbow Bridge, you can take the Rainbow Promenade walkway which connects the Odaiba side with the other side. Isn’t it enchanting to see the breathtaking seafront view from the Shibaura side? However, the 1.7 walkway takes 20 to 30 minutes on foot

Yuhi-no-oka inside Sakura-gaoka Park

Kameido Tenjin Wisteria Light Up 亀戸天神 Romantic purple blooms of wisteria usually come out at the end of April in Japan. Kameido Tenjin has 15 trellises full of wisteria, with the longest flower shoot reaching 1.5 meters. During the festival period, the w is ter ia are lit up at night , creating a fantasy-like atmosphere different from day time.

ゆうひの丘 Commanding a panoramic view of Tama, a western suburban city in Tokyo, Sakuragaoka is a popular filming site of many dramas. Stand at Yuhino-oka, or Sunset Hill, and you will be greeted with a glittering night view of high-rise apartment buildings and crowded streets.It takes about 40 to 50 minutes from Shinjuku by the Keio Line to get here.

Kanpai! Uncovering Izakaya culture Uomamire Shinkichi 居酒屋

The owner of this drinking establishment buys directly from the Tsukiji fish market and provides the freshest seafood with highest standard.

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Tips to help you make the most out of your night in Tokyo Wind down with a drink at Yokocho Yokocho manners Yokocho in Japanese literally means “side alley” and refers to a small, winding smoky lane that leads you into another realm of Tokyo where grit rules over grids. Entering a drinking hole along the yokocho for the first time can be daunting, especially if you don’t speak Japanese.

Following these simple rules will help make your experience enjoyable: 1. Always order a drink or more to go with your food 2. Don’t invade the counter space of the person next to you 3. Don’t linger after finishing your food—bar hop to the next stop!

4. Do bring enough cash to pay, credit cards are often not accepted

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Zoria April

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ROBOT RESTAURANT An evening show at

“We are looking forward to the main show.”

Admit it, many of you love seeing quirky sides of Japan! A lot of Japanese subcultures enjoy cult status online and there is something special about seeing this side of Japan. The Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku is a great place to experience a show that is impossible to imagine!

With abundant lights, catchy jingles and two big female robots out front to take pictures with, the fun starts even before you enter the building! Inside, you can first relax with a drink at the bar while listening to the performances of musicians who are dressed in robot costumes. But trust me, you haven’t seen anything yet!

For the main show, we moved to the basement and waited with bated breath for what came next. The answer was… everything! Robotic carts came out carrying singers and drummers on them. These costumed performers were bursting with life and energy. Seeing them move expertly and effortlessly within a small area made the show even more admirable. Here, you will see geishas, ninjas, pirates and yokai dancing and singing together! Try to spot them in the whirlwind of light and colors.

Yeliz, Ashleigh & Jessie from Australia - before the show -

“We have many reasons to come to the Robot Restaurant. Found it through word of mouth mostly with friends recommending it, I have also seen a lot of YouTube videos about it. The other two haven't seen the videos, so it will be a total surprise! So far we love the uniqueness of this place, we definitely haven't seen any place like this! So many lights and colors!”

“Surprised by everything” “We come from Weipa, Australia and we loved the show, it was amazing! We were surprised by everything in the Robot Restaurant and we are having such fun! We found the place through a recommendation by friends.”

Robot Resturant

Before you know it, it’s time for the intermission. During breaks, there was a raffle with gifts for the audience and you could buy souvenirs and drinks served in light bulbs. As the show restarts, you are in for a stream of continuous surprises.

The Robot Restaurant is a show that never repeats itself. We won’t give away too many details, but think of battling mechanical creatures, pyrotechnics, costumes and the like. You will feel as though you’ve stepped into the world of your favorite childhood cartoon or video game. An exhilarating journey, expect to leave this place with a smile while humming “roboto roboto restoran...” for at least a day.

Jamiee McComb & Dave Simenauer, Australian couple - after the show -

Opening act before the main show starts

Address: 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku Time: 4pm - 11pm (Shows: 4pm,5.55pm,7.50pm, 9.45pm) 1 show approx. 90 min Admission: 8,000yen Access: 5-min walk from JR and TokyoMetro Shinjuku Station URL: http://www.shinjukurobot.com/pc/index.php?lng=en WAttention Tokyo

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Mt. Fuji in Spring: Flowers in Full Bloom

Travel with Mt. Fuji Pass in Spring

Mt. Fuji goes into hibernation in winter and is covered in a white blanket of snow until everything comes alive again in the spring. Although still capped in snow, Mt. Fuji is ready to embrace spring in all its beauty, with pink cherry blossoms and green leaves making their annual appearance against a background of blue skies and clear waters. What are you waiting for?

Fuji Shibazakura Festival About 800 thousand s h i b a z a k u r a, o r m o s s phlox, of different colors and hues cover an area of 2.4 hectares, making the festival the largest in the greater Tokyo region.

Event Period: April 14, 2018 to May 27, 2018 Address: 212 Motosu, Fujikawaguchikomachi, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi-ken Hours: 8:00am-5:00pm (hours are adjusted to according to how well the flowers bloom)

Best Deal with Shibazakura Liner !

During the Fuji Shibazakura Festival, you can purchase a Shibazakura Liner set ticket, which includes a round-trip ticket between the festival site and Kawaguchiko, Shinfuji or Fujinomiya Station. Passengers also receive a free gift. What a great deal!

From Festival site ● To Kawaguchiko Sta.

2,000 yen for adults and 1,000 yen for children *operating everyday

● To Shinfuji Sta. 2,500 yen for adults and 1,250 yen for children ● To Fujinomiya Sta. *Please note that design 2,100 yen for adults and 1,050 yen for children outlook of buses will differ depending on actual situation. *operating on weekends and holidays

Hassel-free Hiking and Trekking For outdoor lovers, late spring and early summer is the best time for mounting expeditions around the Mt. Fuji area. Worried about all the heavy tools and equipment? La Mont rentals is here to give you a great, hassle-free trekking experience.

Talk to their knowledgeable staff to get the latest information on where to go and what to wear.

Hours: 9:00am-11:00pm (Jul-Sep) 9:00am6:00pm (Oct-Jun) Address: 6663-11 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi-ken Access: 2 minute walk from Fuji-Q Highland Station

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Hundreds of Flowers Competing in Splendor Fuji Five Lakes is blessed with many beauties of nature. Every spring, people from all over the world come here to enjoy the sight of cherry blossoms combined with the iconic Mt. Fuji. Follow the flower trails and they will surely guide you to Mt. Fuji’s many fantastic sights.

Fujikawaguchiko Cherry Blossoms Festival is one of the most wellknown spring events. It is recommended that you stand on the north lakeside of Lake Kawaguchiko for a panoramic view of cherry blossoms with the majestic Mt. Fuji in the background.

The historic Arakura Fuji Sengen Jinja Shrine in Arakurayama Sengen Park is also worth visiting. Built on a hilltop facing Mt. Fuji, Chureito Pagoda is a part of the shrine. Although you will need to climb 397 steps to reach the pagoda, it features an unrivaled view of charming cherry blossoms and Mt. Fuji in the distance.

Tired of having to look up in order to enjoy the blossoms? Try looking down to appreciate the same kind of scenery at Fuji Shibazakura festival. This time-limited event features 800,000 red, pink and white moss phlox, as well as purple flowers that form a carpet of vibrant colors, giving Mt. Fuji a touch of fantasy.

Arakurayama Sengen Park Cherry Blossoms Festival Around 650 Somei Yoshino cherry trees are planted in the shrine. It used to be a secret flower viewing spot known only to locals, but became famous with visitors from home and abroad after holding its first cherry blossoms festival in 2016.

Address: 3353 Arakura, Fujiyoshida-shi, Yamanashi-ken Access: 10-minute walk from Shimoyoshida Station

Fujikawaguchiko Cherry Blossoms Festival During cherry blossom season, 200 cherry trees go into full bloom at once along the lakeside of Kawaguchiko. The flowers look even more gorgeous and intriguing with Mt. Fuji in the distance.

Address: Walking trails, Kawaguchiko hokugan, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, Minamitsurugun, Yamanashi-ken Access: Take the Kawaguchiko sightseeing bus from Kawaguchiko Station and get off at Sarumawashi Gekijo Konohana Bijutsukan-mae Stop

Travel Far and Wide with the Mt. Fuji Pass If you are planning to visit the area around Mt. Fuji, the Mt. Fuji Pass is your best travel buddy!

Choose from one-day, two-day and three-day passes according to your schedule. With "Mt. Fuji Pass", You can get on and off for the local bus which operating in Yamanashi and Shizuoka Area, also the train, Fujikyu Railway. Besides, you can use the popular sightseeing spots like the excursion ship "En Soleil" and Fuji-Q Highland, etc.

If you have a foreign passport, you can purchase the pass at Otsuki Station, Kawaguchiko Station, Mt. Fuji Station, Asahigaoka Bus Terminal, Gotemba Station, Mishima Station, ShinFuji Station and Fujinomiya Station. http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/mtpass/

Fuji-Q Highland Besides thrilling rides, there are plent y of at tractions to satisfy everyone in the family.

One example is Fuji Airways.

You get to sit on a real flight simulator chair surrounded by gigantic screens that shows videos of Mt. Fuji from different angles and in different seasons shot by 6K-cameras.

A n oth e r p o p u l a r at trac ti o n is the Thomas Land, which is th e m e d af te r th e B r i tis h children’s book series, Thomas the Tank Engine & Friends! Get on a train ride with Thomas or one of his friends, ride the mini ©2018 Gullane (Thomas) Limited. roller coaster, climb through a 3D maze, and enjoy many other exciting attractions!

Kachikachi Ropeway is a destination you must not miss if visiting Lake Kawaguchiko. In just three minutes, the ropeway travels up 1,075 meters to the top of Mt. Tenjoyama. You can look down for a panoramic view of Mt. Fuji and Lake Kawaguchiko and stroll around the beautiful observation deck to see cherry blossoms in full bloom. It will reopen as "Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway" on April 1st after being renovated.

If you are a lover of theme parks and thrilling rides, Fuji-Q Highland is the place to be. Get on Guiness World Record breaking roller coasters and appreciate the scenic view of Mt. Fuji while screaming away!

There are so many things to see and experience around Mt. Fuji that we suggest you stay at least one night. With more time on your hands, you can take the time to appreciate Mt. Fuji’s sunset and sunrise and have a taste of chewy Yoshida Udon noodles or Hoto noodles, a regional dish originating from Yamanashi.

A great place to stay ! ● Highland Resort Hotel & Spa offers a Luxurious Experience

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Thomas the Tank Engine Shaped Cakes

Entertainment Facilities Add to the Fun of Flower Viewing

Kachikachi Ropeway T he rop eway ta ke s you a ll the way to the mountain, a prime spot for sightseeing with its grand view of Mt. Fuji and Lake Kawaguchiko. If you only purchased a one-way ticket, enjoy the 45min hiking trail down Mt. Tenjoyama, and past the Nakabadaira observation area, which features a monument of Ozamu. During summer season (mid-July through the beginning of August), you can enjoy a hundred thousand hydrangea flowers blooming in a dozen different colors.

Hours: Hours may change according to season. Please check the official website for more information Address: 1163-1 Asakawa, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, Minamitsurugun, Yamanachi-ken Access: 15 minutes walk from Kawaguchiko Station, or get off at Ropeway-mae Stop if you plan to take the sightseeing bus URL: http://www.kachikachiyama-ropeway.com/en/

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Unwind in a wonderful hot springs Hotel guests can visit the nearby Fujiyama Onsen at any time of day for a dip in a traditional wooden bath. ▼

Spacious Rooms

The spacious and comfortable interiors make the entire room feel like a resort. ▼

Hours: Hours may change according to season. Please check the official website for more information Address: 5-6-1 Shinnishihara, Fujiyoshida-shi, Yamanashi-ken Access: Next to Fuji-Q Highland Station URL: https://www.fujiq.jp/en/

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Don´t forget to try out the many different and cute snacks and dishes shaped in the form of Thomas and his friends!

Great Food Plus Great View Fujiyama Terrace of fers ref ined oriental and western dishes, including formal "Kaiseki" cuisine, along with a grand view of Mt. Fuji and visitors in the Fuji-Q Highland through the windows.

URL: https://www.highlandresort.co.jp/lp/en/ ● CABIN & LOUNGE HIGHLAND STATION INN capsule hotel Located next to Fuji-Q Highland Station, this cozy capsule hotel can be easily accessed by visitors. All the rooms are equipped with full amenities and semidouble beds, which are a bit larger than a single one.

URL: https://www.highlandstation-inn.com/en/#

https://www.facebook.com/fujikyu.en/

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Like the "Visit Mt. Fuji - The top of Japan" page on Facebook and get the latest information from the Mt. Fuji area !

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rip T t r o Sh kyo o T m fro n e Japa and th Mt Fuji

Kamikochi

Alps

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Norikura dake

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Shosenkyo

Kofu Stn.

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Oshino Hakkai

Mt.Fuji springs

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Aside from big cities like Tokyo and Osaka, most of Japan is consisted of steep mountains that come down almost to the shore.

Of all the mountains and hills, Mt. Fuji is the most famous and it serves as an iconic symbol of Japan. In fact, Mt. Fuji is regarded as the mountain of the gods by Japanese. Thus water, rivers and lakes in the area also have spiritual prominence to the Japanese people.

To encounter a Japan that cannot be found on travel brochures and to understand more about Japanese history and culture, I embarked on a fourday, three-night trip from Tokyo to Mt. Fuji, the Japan Alps and several renowned mountain resorts in the area.

My first stop was Oshino Hakkai Springs at the foot of Mt. Fuji. Here, you can find eight crystal clear ponds fed by snowmelt from Mt. Fuji. The snow water seeps slowly to the bottom and is filtered through various rock layers before arriving at Oshino Hakkai 80 years later. In the past, pilgrims en route to Mt. Fuji would purify their bodies in one of the eight ponds before climbing the sacred mountain. The ponds were truly mesmerizing, with transparent, turquoise water that adds a touch of mystery to the ambience.

By the way, when it comes to mystery, do not want to miss Oshino Ninja

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1：Best viewpoint of Japan's Mt Fuji from Shindo Pass in Fuefuki Photo / Fuefuki Tourism Federation 2：Oshino Hakkai 3：Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen-jinja Shrine 4：Oshino Ninja Village 5：The statue of General Shingen Takeda 6：Shosenkyo Gorge 7：Pink peach blossom viewing in Fuefuki 8：Kamikochi: Kappabashi 9：Matsumoto Castle 10：Norikura 11：Nakamachi dori street in Matsumoto

Mt. Fuji Village, a one-of-a-kind theme park close by that allows you to live a day of a Japanese ninja. Kofu is the homeland of Takeda Shingen, a famous warrior from the Warring period (1521-1573). You might even encounter the ninjas who traveled back in time to serve Shingen. Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengenjinja Shrine, the starting point of the pilgrimage to Mt. Fuji, is also said to be related to Shingen. Walking up the path leading to the shrine, I felt as though I had stepped into a different realm. Once here, you should take a closer look at the shrine, as it was built with the finest materials and craftsmanship.

Highland Resort Hotel & Spa was my hotel for the night. I was impressed by a magnificent view of Mt. Fuji and the hospitality there.

The next day, I went over the mountain to the Kofu area. Located on the north part of Kofu, Shosenkyo is said to be the most beautiful gorges in Japan. You can enjoy a tranquil walk in the forest, lay eyes on unique waterfalls and oddly-shaped rocks, as well as take the ropeway for a panoramic view of Mt. Fuji. There are also a lot of historical sites worth visiting, such as Takedajinja Shrine, built on the ruins of the Takeda residence. If you are a hot spring lover, you will be torn between which onsen to go to. This area is home to Yumura Onsen kyo(Area), Isawa Onsen kyo and many more charming hot springs. I stayed in Tokiwa Hotel with a traditional Japanese garden and great

My s ter i o u s, p o w erful water originating from

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Japan Alps

local cuisine in Yumura. For a more traditional Japanese onsen experience, I would highly recommend Ryokan Kidori in Isawa.

Fuefuki City is not only famous for the above onsens but known for producing peaches and grapes of an exceptional taste and quality. In spring, peach blossoms bloom everywhere. Also, visitors can enjoy fruit picking from summer all the way to Fall. There are quite a few wineries that make wines from locally grown grapes so the city is also nicknamed Japan’s "Wine Town."

My next destination is Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture, a prefecture nestled at the base of the Japan Alps. I took the bus from the city center to Kamikochi, which means “the land where God descends” in Japanese. From the Kappabashi, a suspension bridge spanning over Azusa River, you can enjoy a picturesque view of mountains, Taisho Pond and Myojin Pond, among others.

Hotel Buena Vista near the Matsumoto Station is where I stayed for the third night. The next day I explored the Matsumoto Castle and the Nakamachi dori Street, where black and white buildings known as namako-kabe storehouses line the street. Thanks to Matsumoto City’s supply of ground water, fresh spring water wells up the Northern Japan Alps including Norikura-dake.

Here you can feel that the neighborhood is closely connected to the natural environment surrounding it.

Scan this code to learn more about the places mentioned in this article.

Traveling with Ease There are two passes to make your travels smooth: Mt. Fuji Pass gives you access to designated transportation systems in the Mt. Fuji area. Besides, it allows to use certain tourist facilities as well. You can choose from 1-day, 2-day and 3-day passes according to your travel plans.

Kamikochi Norikura Matsumoto 2 DAY Free Passport gives you unlimited bus and train transportation rides, including the bus ride from Kamikochi to Matsumoto.

Further information For further information about the passes, please visit the following links.

Mt. Fuji Pass: http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/mtpass/ Kamikochi Norikura Matsumoto 2 DAY Free Passport: http://www.alpico.co.jp/en/

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Go beyond Tokyo to

Discover Amazing

YOKOHAMA

East meets West at the Yokohama Port Yokohama was the first port in Japan to be opened to the world after a long period of isolation during the feudal Edo period, In the middle of the 19th century. The Port of Yokohama was opened on June 2, 1859.

Since then, Yokohama has remained an important trading city. Yokohama became the gateway for information and novelties from all over the world which made the city embrace and integrate elements from many different cultures. This is visible even today through Yokohama's architecture.

Less than 30 mins from Tokyo Yokohama offers breath-taking views and fun activities. It's conveniently located on the way to Kamakura, Enoshima and Hakone and makes for a perfect stop over. From Yokohama Stn. you can be back in Tokyo usually with one train and arrive in roughly half an hour.

Narita Airport Shinjuku Stn.

Tokyo Stn.

Shibuya Stn.

Mt Fuji

Chiba Stn.

Shinagawa Stn. 30min or les

Haneda Airport

Kikuna Stn.

Shin Yokohama Stn.

Tokyo Bay

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Yokohama Stn. Sakuragicho Stn.

Minatomirai Stn.

Kamakura

JR Line Shinkansen Keihin Kyuko Line Tokyu Toyoko Line Minatomirai Line

To Yokohama Station Tokyo Stn ➡ JR East Tokaido Line, Yokosuka Line, Keihin-Tohoku Line 25min.

Shinagawa Stn ➡ JR East Tokaido Line, Yokosuka Line, Keihin-Tohoku Line 16min, Keikyu Line 17min.

A DAY IN YOKOHAMA

Shibuya Stn ➡ Tokyu Toyoko Line 26min. JR East Shonan-Shinjuku Line 24min.

Shinjuku Stn ➡ JR East Shonan-Shinjuku Line 30min.

Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line can also take you to Minatomirai Stn

Day Sankeien Garden If you're a fan of history, shrines and temples, Sankeien Garden is just 30 minutes away from JR Yokohama Stn by bus. This beautiful 180,000 square meter Japanese-style garden features 17 buildings—including a three-tier pagoda and several tea houses— of historical importance from places such as Kyoto and Kamakura.

Sea Bass Cruise Sea Bass is a convenient and a wonderful way to explore the Por t of Yokohama. To enjoy a spec tacular view of Yokohama on the Sea Bass Cruise, walk through Queen's Square Yokohama before continuing to Minatomirai Pukari Pier . Lights from high rise buildings reflect off the water along the coast, creating a gorgeous skyline with sparkling lights. On your way back, you can choose to get off at Yokohama Stn or Yamashita Park which i s a s h o r t w a l k to T h e Yokohama Chinatown.

Night From Yokohama Port Opening Memorial Hall to Red Brick Warehouse Just a short walk from Nihon-Odori Stn, you will find the picturesque building of Yokohama City Port Memorial Hall, from there, walk to Osanbashi Yokohama International Passenger Terminal for magnificent views of the Yokohama skyline. Follow the promenade and in five minutes you will reach the Red Brick Warehouse, with a variety of shops and cafes overlooking the sea.

Yokohama is also known as a treasure trove for night view spots. After a breath-taking view of Yokohama after sunset, it’s time to treat your tummy with some mouthwatering food in Chinatown. After that, how about wrapping up the day by tasting all the locally brewed craft beers? South of Sakuragicho stn. and Kannai stn.are well known areas for craf t beer pubs, Yokohama Brewer y being one of the most famous. True to the “East meets West” Yokohama spirit you can find many friendly foreign bars too. There’s a string of micro bars lined along the Ooka River, stretching from Miyako Bridge to Miyagawa Bridge. This area, which goes by the name Noge, is where Yokohama’s rich jazz culture originated.

Minato Mirai Area Stroll along the scenic route of the Kishamichi Promenade and admire the lights of the big Ferris Wheel and clock of Yokohama Cosmoworld as well as the silhouette of Yokohama Landmark Tower. This 296-meter high building is home to the Sk y Garden, Yokohama ’s highes t observation deck from which you can catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji on a good sunset day.

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Perfect Harmony between Museum and Garden

The Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art combines the beauty of art, architecture and nature.

Due to its convenient access from both Tokyo Station and Narita Airport, visitors can enjoy the museum’s relaxing garden, which provides plenty of nature in charming Japanese style.

Museum and Garden become one

Besides the tea room with a beautiful view over the garden, the restaurant or the museum shop, there is also a gift shop where you can find a variety of souvenirs.

Bridget Riley Paintings from the 1960s to the Present Riley is a British artist known for creating abstract paintings composed of geometric patterns and optical illusions in the 1960s.

The exhibition features about 30 of Riley’s works spanning from the black and white works of the 1960s, the wave-pattern stripe paintings of the 1970s to her recent wall paintings.

From Here, 1994,private collection © Bridget Riley 2018. All rights reserved. Courtesy David Zwirner, New York/ London

The painting of Monet displayed inside the exhibition hall becomes reality when you step out into the garden and watch the water lilies and lotus flowers blooming inside the pond of one corner of the garden.

Dates: April 14 - August 26, 2018 Admission: Adults 1,300 yen Students & Seniors over 65 with ID 1,100 yen Elementary, middle and high school students 600 yen *Admission also includes entrance to the permanent collection galleries.

Claude Monet《Waterlilies》1907

In the Best Possible Light of the Exhibition Room Also inside the building, a design which matches the art work is first priority and will be taken into careful consideration during exhibitions. Not only the extent of the exhibition room itself, but also the height of the ceiling, the wall colors and lights, as well as the flooring material are carefully designed to display the art in the most beautiful way. An array of paintings by Rothko, an immense room adorned with a Frank Stella collection and many other exhibition rooms are waiting for you. They are just a few of the world-famous works of art at the Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art. Treat yourself to this unique experience - and remember to visit the marvelous garden!

Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art Address: 631 Sakado, Sakura-shi, Chiba From Tokyo Station: 67 minutes expressway bus ride or 60 minutes train ride (JR Sobu Line) to JR Sakura Station and 20 minutes (free shuttle bus) to the museum.

From Narita Airport: 30 minutes train ride (Keisei Line Limited Express) to Keisei Sakura Station and 30 minutes (free shuttle bus) to the museum.

Tel: +81(0)50-5541-8600 Hours: 9:30am – 5pm (Last entry 4:30pm) Days closed: Mon (except for national holidays, then closed the following non-holiday), New Year’s holiday, during exhibit changes Admission: 1,000 yen (Adults), 800 yen (College students and people over 65 with ID), 600 yen (Elementary, middle and high school students) Admission varies depending on the exhibition.

Present a copy of WAttention Tokyo Vol. 27 at the ticket booth to receive a discount on your ticket.

The museum remain closed for maintenance work until March 23, 2018. The gardens, gift shop and restaurant are open. (Closed Monday)

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