BEST OF MORE THAN 300 SHOPS BERLIN´S LARGEST FOODCOURT
SHOPPING Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm
LEIPZIGER PLATZ 12
9 LP-Anzeige Where November 2015-300915-schu.indd 1 WB MALL OF BERLIN.indd 1
MALL OF BERLIN
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Berlin
11.15
CONTENTS
See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
16
XX
6 Hot Dates
Remember: You can never have too many bags.
Highlights of this month's events, from Irish dancers to the queen of pop, Madonna.
AXX tour of the legendary Hansa recording studios.
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Admire the decadent and glamorous Weimar Republic XX as seen through the eyes of Max Beckmann.
Savor the 1920s at classy XX Austro-German coffee house Café Einstein Stammhaus.
14
Marilyn Manson, Anthrax, and Deep Purple are just some of the notable bands on the November calendar.
Also Inside
Who said Germany is not a place for wine? Check out our favorite wine bars.
Philipp Stopp of the Regent Berlin offers tips for visiting the city.
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18 Your Gift Guide
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12 The Berlin Playlist
SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS
Photo © istock
BUS 100 100
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Songs, sites & icons that define the city's modern music scene
ON THE COVER
A guide to the city's lesserknown party locations: the luxury clubs and lounges.
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ROCKS
BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS
16 With A Glass Of Champagne
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Europe's most famous techno DJ, Paul van Dyk, talks about his career and his love for Berlin.
BERLIN
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10 Berlin's Prodigal Son
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MUSIC ISSUE
From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.
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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
Where Now
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Paul van Dyk According to the worldrenowned DJ, Berlin is a city that has everything.
DINING
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18 66 My Perfect Day
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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MADONNA: MARCUS PIGGOT; MIDDLE BAR: COURTESY OF HORNS AND HOOVES; GLASSES BY WOODONE; BUST OF NEFERTITI: NEUES MUSEUM, MUSEUMSINSEL BERLIN BÜSTE DER KÖNIGIN NOFRETETE NEUES REICH, 18. DYNASTIE, AMARNA, ÄGYPTEN, UM 1340 V. CHR. RAUM „NOFRETETE“ NORDKUPPELSAAL © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / FOTO: ACHIM KLEUKER
SIGHTSEEING
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PLUS Paul van Dyk Luxury Nightlife The Berlin Playlist
SHOPPING
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5 Editor’s Note
B Mu
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4 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2015
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WELCOME TO BERLIN
A Month Of Music
Don't forget that Christmas is around the corner, which means it's time to start jotting down gift ideas for our friends and family (p. 18). Berlin’s Christmas markets will be opening on 23 November this year, and are the perfect way to boost your Christmas spirit (p. 8). My personal favorite is the Markt der Kontinente, housed inside the Dahlem Museums, an ethnic bazaar focusing on a different continent every weekend. Check out its traditional crafts and combine gift shopping with a visit to the beautiful Asian artifacts housed in the museum.
PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK
SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen
(worth
2,80€)
open daily:
mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)
Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
We know: days are getting shorter. But on the “bright” side, nights are getting longer! And with Berlin being Europe’s nightlife destination, this can only be a good thing. To celebrate the long nights, we drew an overview of Berlin’s best nightlife destinations, from the worldfamous bastions of house and techno like the Berghain and Watergate to the poshest places out there, including Adagio and The Pearl, and all shades of night in between. But there's more: To find out everything there is to know about Berlin's club scene, Jenna Rose Robbins had a long conversation with one of the world's most famous DJs, Paul van Dyk, born in former East Berlin (p. 10). And if you need the perfect soundtrack for your Berlin visit, check out Jenna's playlist, which includes a selection of songs about the capital, from Paul LIncke's Berliner Luft to David Bowie's "Heroes" (p. 14).
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until January 31st 2016.
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
BURN AFTER READING SPY MUSEUM BERLIN POTSDAMER PLATZ ENTRANCE: LEIPZIGER PLATZ 9 OPEN DAILY 10AM — 8PM top secret interactive international Discover the fascinating world of espionage with multimedia-based technology in an area of 32.000 sq ft. More than 350 exhibits are proof for the spies mentioned in the Bible to the whistleblowers and big data in the present.
spymuseumberlin.com
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Where now | CALENDAR
HOT DATES Berlin's November event calendar is crammed with concerts, performances, and pre-Yuletide festivities.
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FROM SUNDAY
WUNDERKAMMER
After raking in rave reviews in their native Australia and several international cities, the Circa troupe returns to the Chamäleon Theater to perform Wunderkammer.. The new show – a combination of cabaret, vaudeville, and profound beauty that reinvents circus performance for a younger, hipper crowd – ups the wow factor with acrobatic feats both risky and risqué. www.chamaeleonberlin.com
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THURSDAY
LORD OF THE DANCE After two decades of Irish tap dancing around the globe, Lord of the Dance has been given a new look, with huge LED-embossed backdrops and dazzling costumes in a “best of” show with more than 40 sensational dancers. Creator and Riverdance star Michael Flatley is slated to make a cameo performance. www.mercedes-benzarena-berlin.de
FROM TUESDAY
TUESDAY
10
MADONNA
One of the most successful artists in music history, pop's Queen of Reinvention makes a Berlin stop in support of her new album, Rebel Heart. Expect danceable favorites like Vogue and Like a Virgin mixed in with tracks from Madonna's new release, which Rolling Stone describes as "a long, passionate, selfreflective meditation on lost love." www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de
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INTERNATIONAL SHORT FILM FESTIVAL
A can’t-miss event for cinephiles, the Interfilm Short Film Festival is Berlin’s most significant cinematic event after the Berlinale. Some 500 flicks, each 20 minutes or less from countries around the globe, are screened over six days, representing genres ranging from animation to documentary. The festival's 31st edition focuses on Canada and the Baltic States, with the popular Long Night of Weird Films taking place – aptly enough – on Friday the 13th. www.interfilm.de
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tuesday
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simply red The perfect fusion between soul and pop, Simply Red has reunited for their 30th-anniversary Big Love Tour 2015, now making the Europe rounds. Redheaded frontman Mick Hucknall leads the English chart-toppers through the band's greatest hits, such as Holding Back the Years and Stars, as well as all-new blue-eyed soul ballads from their latest album. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de
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from thursday
Jazzfest Berlin
Bring on the brass! First held in 1964, Jazzfest Berlin is one of the oldest and most prestigious jazz festivals in Europe. Held over four days at various venues along Berlin's so-called “mile of jazz,” which extends from Haus der Berliner Festspiele to A-Trane and the Quasimodo Jazz Club, this year's celebration showcases performers from 30 countries, underscoring how the music genre's international appeal has grown. www.berlinerfestspiele.de
from monday
Christmas Markets Berlin gets a head start on the holiday season as the first Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmärkte) spring to life. Explore the city's variety, from the nostalgic crafts at Charlottenburg Palace to tobogganing at Potsdamer Platz and a full program of entertainment at the historic Gendarmenmarkt. Keep warm with a Glühwein (mulled wine) in your mittened hands. www. christmasmarketsgermany.com
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
NOVEMBER Whiz down the ice slide at the just-opened Winterwelt on Potsdamer Platz. The famed Chippendales dancers take it all off at Tempodrom tonight.
Explore the evolution of Botticelli's art and popularity at the Gemäldegalerie. Admire the geometric paintings of Piet Mondrian on show at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Hamburger Bahnhof displays works by artists shortlisted for the Preis der Nationalgalerie. See Achim Kaufmann receive the German Jazz Award as part of this year's Jazzfest. Weekends are for brunching. Try the lavish spread at Anna Blume in Prenzlauer Berg.
Rock out with Dave Grohl and the rest of the Foo Fighters at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Take a trip to Dahlem's Botanical Garden to admire the greenhouses of tropical plants. Blue, bald, and legendary: See the Blue Man Group show at the Bluemax Theater. One of the most influential bands of the '80s, New Order plays Tempodrom this evening.
The legend of Michael Jackson lives on with the musical show Thriller at Admiralspalast. Indie film and art darling Miranda July reads from her debut novel at Arena. Kick off the weekend at Becketts Kopf, Prenzlauer Berg's best cocktail bar. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Sway to the dreamy, ethereal pop music of Beach House at Huxleys Neue Welt. Catch the wacky impersonations of Ennio Marchetto at Tipi am Kanzleramt. Picasso fans won't want to miss the collection of masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen. Discover the groundbreaking photos of artist Cindy Sherman at me Collectors Room. Admire masterpieces by Cranach the Elder and Younger at Jagdschloss Grunewald. Hear the Germany Symphony Orchestra play works by Ravel at the Philharmonie. Experience the decadence of 1920s Berlin as depicted in the arts at Ephraim Palace.
'Tis the season to enjoy the Christmas markets again – most of Berlin's markets open today. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm.
Hop a train to Potsdam to admire the regal gardens and palaces of Sanssouci. Shop until 11pm at Berlin Designer Outlets and enjoy one-day-only discounts. Oh, happy day! Hear the Harlem Gospel Night Christmas show at Apostel-Paulus-Kirche. Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegasstyle show at Friedrichstadt-Palast. Enjoy Mozart's most famed opera, The Magic Flute, at the Staatsoper. Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English.
Madonna: © Marcus Piggot; Wunderkammer: © Justin Nicholas; Lord of the Dance: Courtesy of Lord of the Dance; Interfilm: From A to B and Back Again – Rachel´s Story by Anna Meyer-Blankenburg and Andy Glynne; Simply Red: Courtesy of Simply Red; christmas markets: © istock; Charles Lloyd at Jazzfest: Courtesy of Jazzfest.
Our recommendations for every day of the month!
Where now | CALENDAR
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Where Now | PAUL VAN DYK
JRR: Why do you think Berlin has become such a music hub, especially for electronic music? PvD: I think it has to do with the history of the city, and not just since the Wall came down. David Bowie recorded here, Depeche Mode recorded here. Some of the best records ever made have been recorded in Berlin. The city never sleeps. There’s no time when the clubs or bars have to close, unlike everywhere else in the world. And that not only attracts people who just want to go out and enjoy life but also artists, because whatever’s happening during these late-night hours has to have artistic value. When the Wall came down, the whole economy in East Germany, and especially in Berlin, broke down. There were a lot of old factories with nothing in them. The authorities didn't know what to do either, so suddenly parties started to pop up in these off locations. And that attracted a lot of people from places like Detroit and Chicago, where they weren't being given proper respect for their music and their art. Then they came to Berlin and they were appreciated and invited to be part of the scene. You grew up in East Berlin, lived for four months in Hamburg, and returned. What drew you back? My friends, and that I knew at least half of the city. I knew East Berlin, and then there was West Berlin to be discovered.
Few DJs have such a close tie to Berlin as Paul van Dyk. Jenna Rose Robbins interviewed the world-renowned DJ about the city, its music, and his passion for the electronic dance scene.
You made your DJ debut at Tresor. I’m more than grateful I’ve been around to see electronic music growing from 150 crazy-ass people in some small hole into what it is these days, being much more respected, and to see many more people enjoying it. But those Sunday afternoons or Monday mornings at [former nightclub] Planet, I will never forget. I’ve been at the center of a cultural revolution, right in the middle of it, together with everyone else that
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was around that time, and that leaves a mark on you. Obviously at the time you don't know what you’re a part of, but when you look back you’re like, “Oh, s---.” But in 1990 to 1991, there were maybe 150 or 200 people in Berlin that actually enjoyed this music, and we all knew each other. We were the freaks of the city. It was weird — in a good way.
© Pia Bergmann. Next Page: Courtesy of Aquanario.
Who were your musical influences growing up? I was a massive fan of The Smiths. I never knew what they looked like and what they were singing, but I was still singing it. Later on when I learned English, I was quite surprised that when singing along I'd been calling for some rather drastic measures somehow. Still, to me, it’s never just one person [who influences you]. It’s the music genre itself that develops and reinspires. It’s everybody who’s
involved, and if I had to say everyone who inspired me, I would have to name every single person who was around back then making music. Even if it was really [crap], at least it inspired me not to do that. Who would you like to work with in the future? There are many artists I would still like to work with because of whatever sort of talent they may have. When I make music, I develop an idea that a certain vocalist would be great, or a certain songwriter would put some nice lyrics to it, or this orchestrator could put some really amazing string orchestration to it. I know people always want to work with superstars, but it’s not that important to me. It’s more about what someone can bring to the project so I can achieve my goal, to make music that leaves a mark and is not just over after three minutes on the radio.
You’ve been quoted as lauding the electronic music scene for its inclusiveness and for embracing all backgrounds. What do you think it is about electronic music that fosters that? Its main characteristic is that everyone is really open to bringing different cultural elements into the music. This is why it’s such a global phenomenon, because people can identify themselves in the music, they can always find something to take away for themselves. A good piece of electronic music never tells you the whole story; it gives a sketch, an idea of where to go, and then you have to fill it with your own experience and your own dynamic. People come to me about the same track. Someone says, “Oh, it’s so beautifully sad." Then others say, “It’s so uplifting and great." Because people fill in the gaps with their own experiences. This is what people who really love electronic music are so passionate about. In light of that, I read that your recent Politics of Dancing 3 was banned in several countries due to the appearance of Israeli DJs on the album. What are your feelings on that? Obviously, it shows that still a hell of a lot more work needs to be done to overcome those boundaries. It’s bad enough that because of religion people don't talk to each other and fight against each other, and that people are putting sanctions on each other for political reasons. But I think it should be understood that culture is the only universal language that can overcome those distances. It’s clearly very disappointing from an artistic point of view. I could understand if they had banned it because [of explicit lyrics]. But it’s purely because of where two of the artists are from, and that’s obviously complete bulls---. See page 66 for Paul van Dyk’s picks of the city. www.wheretraveler.com w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11
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WHERE NOW | SOUNDS OF THE CITY
Jenna Rose Robbins curated a soundtrack for a visit to the city, consisting of songs that both celebrate and best encapsulate the spirit of Berlin at different times in its history. Berlin has had a long-standing reputation for fostering musical creativity, even before Frederick II came to power in 1740 and ushered in the city’s “Golden Age” of music. Since then, the German capital has been heralded in songs spanning nearly every genre, and has been the inspiration behind some classics.
BERLINER LUFT 1899 Considered the city’s “unofficial anthem,” Paul Lincke’s sprightly march is still often used as an encore by the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra. The song, whose title means “Berlin Air,” is best enjoyed while walking along the street named after the composer, which runs along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg.
THERE'LL BE A HOT TIME IN THE TOWN OF BERLIN 1943 Although Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters recorded the original version, Frank Sinatra gets the credit for making it popular, enlisting his signature croon to bring even further emotion to a song already ripe with patriotism: “When the Yanks go marching in, I want to be there, boy, spread some joy, when they take old Berlin.“
Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich recorded numerous songs about the city, including Das War in Schöneberg, an homage to the neighborhood in which she was born. But it’s her Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin ("I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin") that is perhaps not only her best-known Berlin song but also her greatest tribute. In her smoky-smooth voice, she makes comparisons to other cities and argues, rightfully so, how none match up to her hometown.
©ISTOCK
ICH HAB’ NOCH EINEN KOFFER IN BERLIN 1954
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WHERE NOW | SOUNDS OF THE CITY
Although written and sung by a Brit, David Bowie’s now-classic might be the "most Berlin" song ever recorded, even when compared to the remainder of the artist’s own “Berlin trilogy” albums. The lyrics describing the lovers kissing by an unnamed wall as gunshots ring out was written by Bowie as he peered out of a Hansa Studios (p. 34) window and spied his music producer enjoying a tryst by the famous landmark. “Heroes” was even featured on the soundtrack for We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, a cult film depicting the darker side of 1970s West Berlin.
THE PASSENGER 1977 One of Iggy Pop’s most popular songs, inspired as he rode about town on the S-Bahn, is often interpreted as a metaphor for the punk lifestyle, which was just burgeoning in the divided city. The track was released on 1977’s Lust for Life, which was also recorded at Hansa and features Bowie on back-up vocals. Try to get this earworm out of your head next time you’re transferring at Potsdamer Platz.
HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN 1977 Since it seems every other artist was writing about Berlin this year, the Sex Pistols decided to follow suit, releasing this as a track on their one and only studio album. After getting booted off the island of Jersey, the punk rockers skedaddled to Berlin, which they found to be much more to their liking for a break from their London hometown. Frontman Johnny Rotten declared, “I loved Berlin. I loved the Wall and the insanity of the place.“
SONDERZUG NACH PANKOW 1983 Sure, it's basically just Chattanooga Choo-Choo in lederhosen, but Udo Lindenberg’s reinvention is an East German cult classic, due in part to its role in landing the rocker permission to be the first West German musician to perform in the GDR. Many of the artist’s hits, including this one, can currently be heard in the Berlin Wall-themed rock-and-roll musical Hinterm Horizont (p. 57).
CITY OF NIGHT BERLIN 1989 Peter Schilling found minor success outside of his native Germany with Coming Home (Major Tom), his retelling of Bowie’s Space Oddity. Released just before the Wall came down, City of Night (Berlin) speaks of the plights of a still-divided city while encouraging Berliners to retain hope: “What's done is done, but you are still young, Berlin.”
ONE 1992 Most any of the songs from U2’s Achtung Baby could have made the cut for this list, but it’s the album’s third track that most fully exemplifies both the city and
the mood of the band as they recorded at Hansa. Just as Berliners were trying to find their way in a reunited country, U2’s members were experiencing their own discord, with drummer Larry Mullen, Jr. even stating he thought “this might be the end” for the band. Lyrics such as “We're one, but we're not the same, we get to carry each other“ refer as much to the sentiments of the band members for each other as those of East and West Germans at the time.
A GREAT DAY FOR FREEDOM 1994 Although Another Brick in the Wall was performed at Pink Floyd’s 1990 concert on the former no-man’s-land between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, it’s the band’s 1994 song that has stronger ties to the city. Written shortly after the history-making Berlin show, A Great Day for Freedom tackles the disappointment many felt after the fall of the Wall. “I sort of wish and live in hope, but I tend to think that history moves at a much slower pace than we think it does,“ guitarist David Gilmour said. “I feel that real change takes a long, long time.” Despite his explanation, some fans continue to interpret the song as Gilmour’s feelings toward former band member Roger Waters.
BORN TO DIE IN BERLIN 1995 As with most of the punk rockers’ songs, the final track on the final album by the Ramones is pretty open to interpretation. But with its multiple drug references and verse sung entirely in German, it’s a fair bet that Joey Ramone was singing about the city’s punk scene, even though it was pretty much over by the time the song was released. Berlin's Mitte neighborhood is home to the world’s only museum (p. 44) dedicated to the band.
©THINKSTOCK
“HEROES” 1977
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Where Now | Luxury nightlife
Berlin's alternative nightlife is renowned, but its posher haunts remain mostly unknown outside of a select scene. Solveig Steinhardt checked out the city’s lesser-known party locations – the luxury clubs and lounges.
© iStock
B
erliners have always loved going out at night, and the crazier the location the better. In the 1920s, the city was infamous for the decadent cabaret scene around Schöneberg’s Nollendorfplatz – until the ruling party put the kibosh on such “degenerate” habits. After World War II, the city picked itself up and slowly developed a new alternative persona, with the growth of a punk scene in Kreuzberg and a more genteel and intellectual nightlife around Savignyplatz in Charlottenburg. When the Berlin Wall fell, techno clubs started popping up in every other empty space, be it an abandoned power station, bunker, or former bank. Today, things are a bit more structured, and although some visitors still seek out what remains of the gritty alternative ambiance of yesteryear, the demand for upscale establishments is growing, with the majority found in Charlottenburg, around Potsdamer Platz, and in the business district of Mitte. The baroque furnishings at Adagio (p. 59) – angels on the ceilings, velvet upholstery, and modern white tables – lend the club an air of exclusiveness. The clientele is a mix of locals, businessmen, and high-end tourists who’ve just seen a show at the Theater am Potsdamer Platz (p. 57) and now want to let loose on the dance floor as the DJ spins a mix of new-wave classics and Madonna’s latest hits. Decadence-seekers will find the same music but a different crowd at The Pearl (p. 60) in Charlottenburg. Luxury and big cars are key at this Fasanenstraße location, where a bottle of champagne can cost up to €15,000 and is delivered, set aglow with the aid of LED lights placed underneath, on a huge tray carried by pirate-costumed dancers. The circular bar at the entrance allows revelers to fuel up before letting loose to the music. For a more reserved night on the town, there’s Prenzlauer Berg's Horns & Hooves (p. 60). Inspired by the atmosphere of 1920s Berlin, the location is a combination of cabaret, circus, piano bar, and jazz venue and is made for sophisticated professionals who want to enter “an eccentric, bizarre, and unexpected world,” as the owners describe it. The cognoscenti have long flocked to Felix (p. 60),
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Frangrances Tastings: © The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin, Photographer Natalia Kepesz; Cocktail: Courtesy of Le Croco Bleu; Middle Bar: Courtesy of Horns & Hooves; Berries and Liqueurs: Courtesy of BRYK Bar; Bottom-Left Bar: Courtesy of Victoria Bar.
We’ve profiled the best of Berlin’s neighborhoods for nightlife.
Friedrichshain Friedrichshain is the epicenter for Berlin’s renowned techno and house scenes, with a crowd that is varied, international, and wild. The world-famous Berghain (p. 59), with its notoriously tight doors and renowned sound system; Kater Blau (p. 60); and Watergate (p. 60) have set the neighborhood’s tone, with a multitude of other bars and clubs dotting the onceindustrial riverfront area.
Savignyplatz
Clockwise from top left: Fragrances at the Ritz-Carlton offers a singular sipping experience based on combining aromas and mixology; a Shooting Bötzow is a Le Croco Bleu favorite; head to Prenzlauer Berg for cabaret style at Horns & Hooves; BRYK Bar makes its own fruit infusions for its "avant garde" cocktail mixtures; Victoria Bar has single-handedly redefined the tone of its corner of the Tiergarten neighborhood.
inside the Adlon Hotel. Relaxed, classy, and boasting a top-notch sound system and LED ceiling, the exclusive venue, which houses an equally exclusive restaurant, is open only to hotel guests and selected friends and is often used as an event location for fashion shows and movie premieres. Moving from classy to glamorous, House of Weekend (p. 60) is a 12th-floor electro club with a panoramic view that stretches over Alexanderplatz and beyond. The rooftop terrace is the selling point for VIPs, especially in summer, though fashion and music celebrities are spotted here year round. For an inebriating night of whiskey and cigars, Berlin also offers myriad elegant bars for the demanding drinker. You’ll need to ring the bell to get into speakeasy Buck and Breck (p. 60). The smoky one-room locale seats no
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more than a dozen people and its bartender mixes cocktails based on your mood. Over near Potsdamer Platz, Victoria Bar's (p. 60) reputation for cocktails has made it a hot bed for after-hours tippling. The upmarket joint opened more than a decade ago, bringing some much-needed class to the then-downtrodden neighborhood. Today, the bar attracts those seeking to enjoy an expertly mixed drink in a sophisticated setting. If all that seems too commonplace, there's always Fragrances (p. 60), the world's first bar to mix drinks based on well-known perfumes. Enter the Ritz-Carlton bar via its walk-thru "menu," where each drink is presented by a bottle of the perfume it's named for, an artful still life of key ingredients, and a photo illustrating the final presentation.
For those who prefer cocktails to clubbing, the more refined and laid-back area on the west side of town stills retains much of the ambiance of its 1920s heyday. Notables from the worlds of cinema, theater, and politics often stop by Paris Bar (p. 49) and Florian (Grolmanstr. 42), while the area keeps true to its bohemian history with several notable jazz clubs, including Quasimodo (p. 56) and A-Trane (p. 55). Hit up the Schwarzes Café (p. 60) for breakfast at midnight or a nip of absinthe.
Prenzlauer Berg By night, the recently gentrified neighborhood ditches the strollers in exchange for cocktails and local brews. The KulturBrauerei (p. 56), a former brewery turned cultural center, offers the greatest variety, including events and bars such as Soda Club (p. 60). For a creative take on mixed drinks, head to BRYK Bar (p. 60) or order a Flaming Bötzow at Le Croco Bleu (p. 60).
Schöneberg The setting for much of Cabaret is now the hub of alternative lifestyles but is also very straight-friendly, with ambiance ranging from the casual, sandy-floored Slumberland (Goltzstr. 24) to stylish watering hole Green Door (p. 60).
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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS
Need gift ideas for the person on your list who has everything? Claudia Koksch uncovered a cache of unique goodies. TIMELESS DESIGN Minimal elegance defines the Georg Jensen collection of Jens Richard. Kurfürstendamm 63
WINTER BLING Fear winter glare no more, in handmade wood Kaley shades from WooDone. Brillenwerkstatt, Dircksenstr. 48
LOVE LETTERS Put some pizzazz in your penmanship with the Meisterstück Solitaire Blue Hour Skeleton 149. Montblanc, Friedrichstraße 80
HOLIDAY! The Samsonite Lite-Cube DLX lets you travel in style. KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24
IN THE BAG A silver bag by Bimba y Lola will brighten up the winter. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12
SCENT OF ITALY Acqua di Parma eau de cologne for men combines tradition with modernity. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstraße 71
LITTLE TREASURES
ARTFUL AMBIANCE
The Niessing Tension ring presents gems in a singular setting. Niessing, in Stilwerk, Kantstr. 17
Complement the décor of your art deco-loving friend with the Meissen "Red Sunset" lamp. Unter den Linden 39B
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MALL OF BERLIN ENTRANCE LEIPZIGER PLATZ, GROUND FLOOR WEINMEISTERSTRASSE 9B, 10178 BERLIN
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SHOPPING
Freitag
Liebeskind
Tausche Longchamp
Haute Style Is In The Bag For Annabelle Mallia, the style of a bag is as important as what goes in it. Handbags are a little like shoes: You can never have too many. Here's where to find the latest addition to your collection. For something that encapsulates the city’s fashionable urban lifestyle, Berlin’s young designer label Liebeskind (p. 32) has it – leather clutches, totes, weekenders, and the ever-popular Vintage line, characterized by a hip used look. Since its launch in 2003, the Kreuzberg brand has developed a following across Europe but still maintains its creative center right here in town.
German luxury house BOSS (p.29), has moved on from last season’s honorable Boss Berlin Bag to the Boss Bespoke handbag – the latest “it” accessory, thanks to the style imparted by Jason Wu, frequent designer for Michelle Obama. Other classics can be picked up at long-established Munich brand AIGNER (www.aignermunich.de). For a more functional sensibility, head to Tausche (www.tausche.de), whose messenger-style bags come in a range of colors, sizes, and designs, with a choice of
interchangeable front flaps for further visual versatility. A funky take on eco-fashion can be found in the satchels from Swiss FREITAG (www.fraitag.ch), who recycles truck tarps into unique bags with seatbelt straps. To get your new haul home, stop at Longchamp (www.longchamp.com) to pick up their iconic Le Pliage (show). The foldable, vinyl tote with leather trim has been launched in a series of bold prints, seen on the arms of many a trendy jetter.
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com
Phenomenally Berlin When it comes to fashion, it’s hard to find another label that epitomizes the Berlin metropolis better than lala Berlin. Former MTV Germany editor-turneddesigner Leyla Piedayesh is the creative mind behind the unconventional yet chic collection of clothing, bags, shoes, and accessories for women, which has introduced Berlin style to the rest of the world. Piedayesh, who first found fame with the launch of her urban-cool knitwear accessories, combines casual designs with elegant evening wear using natural fabrics such as cashmere, silk, and cotton. Her printed cashmere scarves, which have become something of a signature item, are one of the city’s most recognized fashion accessories. Alte Schönhauser Str. 3. T: 030 20095363. www.lalaberlin.com
THE
where GUIDELINES
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 6 December, 20 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.
Courtesy of lala berlin
Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Neues Kranzler Eck – Kurfürstendamm 22, Mon–Sat 9:30am–8pm. Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
Beauty & Wellness Aveda Lifestyle Salon Aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. A cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de. Kurfürstendamm 26a. T: 030.88708790. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4
Harry Lehmann The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106. T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4
Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions, which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honeyand-salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4
Books & Music Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books. With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Shakespeare and Sons After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English translations. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36. T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße. F1; Warschauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4
Children Playmobil Since its invention in 1974, the plastic Playmobil figurines have been capturing the imagination and fostering the creativity of children worldwide. The Mall of Berlin FunStore location offers an interactive, build-your-own-Playmobil station and countless accesories. www.playmobil.de. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20679100. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Steiff Galerie in Berlin Founded in 1880 by Margarete Steiff, this stuffed-animal company has developed into an international brand of quality cuddles. The bear Steiff created for U.S. President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt in 1902 is the origin of the term "teddy bear." www.steiff.de. Kurfürstendamm 38–39. T: 030.88625006. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Concept Stores Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3
Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. Listings continue on page 27 www.wheretraveler.com 21
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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®
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German luxury purveyor MCM has launched its new Bionic Series, a collection of unisex backpacks and bags made of innovative lightweight material inspired by the interiorlight paneling on spaceships. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means the Bionic line is as waterresistant and durable as it is luxurious.
For more than a century, Falke has been at the forefront of hosiery, thanks to its focus on quality and eye for burgeoning trends. Abiding by the motto "stylish fashions for modern people," the Schmallenberg-based label has since expanded to include chic sportswear, menswear, and accessories. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030 88553565 www.falke.com
Germany's first concept mall brings select labels, unique concept and pop-up stores, and a plethora of dining opportunities to the heart of West Berlin. Do not miss the extraordinary rooftop terrace with a view of the monkeys and flamingos in the zoo. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Budapester Str. 38-50. www.bikiniberlin.de
Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2015
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Bit te b ea chten Sie, da s s d ie Fa r b en u n d P ro p o r tio n en d er hier a b g ebil d eten A r tikel zu ei na n d er a n d er s au s fal l en kö n n en . D ie s ka n n d r u ck te ch ni s ch b e d i n gt s ei n . Al l e A r tikel s i n d er hältl ich , s o l a n g e d er Vo r rat reicht. 11.10. 2 015, UNI Q LO EUR O PE LTD, G er ma n Bra n ch , Tau ent zien s tra ß e 7 B/C, 10789 B er l i n.
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VIVE LA MODE! DISCOVER THE WORLD OF INTERNATIONAL FASHION, BEAUTY PRODUCTS AND MUST-HAVE ACCESSORIES AND ENJOY EXQUISITE FRENCH FOOD AND DELICACIES AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE BERLIN
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THE FRENCH HEART OF BERLIN FRIEDRICHSTRASSE 76 – 78
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SHOPPING
90 Degrees Of Exclusivity
The latest trends from New York and Paris arrive first in Berlin at this address. Owners of concept store The Corner Berlin have made it their mission to travel the globe to source the finest and most exclusive designer fashion and lifestyle products before any of their competitors. Luxury items such as Chloé Drew bags, Kenzo pullovers, and Charles and Ray Eames chairs are imported for your shopping pleasure at three locations around the city. The Corner Berlin East was the first store to open in 2006 on the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt square, with high, white walls and a gallery level showcasing Louboutin pumps – still among the store's bestsellers. Close by is The Corner Berlin Men, with a more specialized selection, while The Corner Berlin West can be found just off the opulent shopping strip of the Ku’damm. Wielandstr. 29. T: 030 88921261. Französische Str. 40. T: 030 20670940; Markgrafenstr. 45. T: 030 20613764. www.thecornerberlin.de
www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3
Department Stores Courtesy of the corner
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an
extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
FOOD & Gourmet Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate.
www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3
Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Markthalle Neun One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process
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SHOPPING of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de. Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080. U Französische Straße. E3
Winterfeldt Schokoladen The chocolate shop/café ’s gorgeous wooden interior dates back to 1892, when the space was still a pharmacy. Sample gourmet hot chocolates and stock up on chocolates from around the globe. Daily B&L. www.winterfeldt-schokoladen. de. Goltzstr. 23 T: 030.23623256. U Nollendorfplatz, U Eisenacher Straße. D4
Malls & Arcades Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www. designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map
No matter what new digital technology may hit the market, devoted vinyl lovers never lose their loyalty to the good old-fashioned record. For decades, vinyl devotees, music hobbyists, and professional DJs have been flocking to Hard Wax, a Kreuzberg temple of techno founded in 1989 that has built a solid reputation as one of the best record sources in the city. Nestled in a red-bricked courtyard off the Landwehr Canal, Hard Wax is housed in a former printing factory whose raw, post-industrial feel is the perfect platform for some of the underground styles that drove Berlin’s world-famous electronic music scene. From Detroit house to dubstep, retro Italo disco to the latest minimal techno, there’s a wealth of both popular and rare vinyl to discover, plus accessories like record bags and t-shirts. Fans from further afield can keep their record collections fresh and up to date via Hard Wax’s online shop. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030 61130111. www.hardwax.com
Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden. de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
©istock
Long Live Vinyl!
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Fashion Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN MO - SA 10AM - 9PM ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA
18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G
BCBGMAXAZRIA The global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with an eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. www.bcbg.com. Schlüterstr. 39. T: 030.88624770. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Bimba y Lola Founded by two sisters, the Spanish label specializes in fashion and accessories – all designed by a team in their 20s – that combine modern flair with Spanish playfulness. www.bimbaylola.com. Weinmeisterstr. 9b. T: 030.28096770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20644265. U Mohrenstraße. E3
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Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Claudia Skoda She used to party with Bowie and Iggy Pop and transformed knitwear into high fashion. Skoda is one of the most famous Berlin designers and this beautiful new boutique houses her latest figurehugging ensembles. www.claudiaskoda.com. Mulackstr. 8. See website for more locations. T: 030.40041884. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Darklands Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for
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SHOPPING instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr. 46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2
in bridal wear. www.kaviargauche.com. Linienstr. 44. T: 030.28873562. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
ESCADA
Liu Jo
Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. www.escada.com. See website for more locations. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Evelin Brandt
Marc Cain
Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with A worldwide premium brand for women’s a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and fashion with its own production facility extravagance. The label’s distinctive in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly designs highlight a woman’s combines aesthetics and innovation individuality and personal charisma. in design and materials, making Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing a declaration of love to women. dresses, or accessories, customers www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. On 26 Nov, head to Designer Outlet (p. 28) will be strikingly well dressed. www. 61. See website for more locations. for late-night evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153a. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3 shopping. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße.
MaxMara
E3
G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16. T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Juicy Couture The LA label most famous for its velour track suits (often with the logo emblazoned across the derrière) is available at the Berlin shopping mecca of KaDeWe. www.juicycouture.com. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Kaviar Gauche Signature pieces fuse dynamic patchwork cuts and femininity, first realized in their classic Lamella bag. In the last few years, motivated by the success of their cocktail dresses, fashion designers Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Röhler also specialize
One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
ADVERTORIAL
UNIQLO: Hot Fashion, Times Two Want to find the sleekest new styles at affordable prices? The Japanese department store UNIQLO has just opened a second branch on Berlin's bustling Leipziger Platz near the new Mall of Berlin. Bargain hunters will find attractive offers on men's, women's and children's clothing, from flannel shirts to ultralight down–jackets. Plan your visit today. UNIQLO, Leipziger Platz 16. www.uniqlo.com.
Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3
Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Home Décor Käthe Wohlfahrt The family-run shop is dedicated exclusively to Christmas, featuring everything from tree ornaments and nutcracker figurines to gingerbread houses and traditional German Christmas pyramids from the Erzgebirge but which are now popular countrywide. Kurfürstendamm 225/226. T: 800.4090150. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085. U Kurfürstendamm. B3
VEB Orange Take a trip back in time. This little store has selected the most beautiful highlights from 1960-70s East German fashion, furniture, and accessories with lots of – you guessed it – orange. www.veborange.de. Oderberger Str. 29. T: 030.97886886. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Jewelry & Watches Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Juwelier LorenZ A family business since 1874, one of Berlin's most 30 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M B E R 2015
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SHOPPING Shoes & Accessories
prestigious watchmakers and jewelers showcases Rolex, Cartier, Raymond, and Tudor. www.juwelierlorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59. T: 030.8512020. U FriedrichWilhelm-Platz. Off Map
AIGNER
Juweliere Leicht This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari, Utopia, Noor, and Meissen, as well as proprietary designs manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Buffalo Boots
Most stores are closed Sundays, but many museums – and their gift shops – are open.
Niessing
Each piece of Niessing jewelry tells a story about the jewelry house, in business since 1873, and comes with a personal touch from its creator. Lively pieces in gold, platinum, or stainless steel. www.niessingberlin.de. Stilwerk/Kantstr. 17. T: 030. 31809075. S Savignyplatz. B4
Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. Also visit their Rolex boutique on the Ku’damm. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3
One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe. www.buffaloshop.de. See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2
Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4
LIEBESKIND Berlin High-quality leather accessories and shoes, from casual to classic, designed in Berlin. de.liebeskindberlin.com. See website for further locations. Neue Schönhauser Str. 8 T: 030.24781600 F3
MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Michal Negrin The Israeli designer has been creating a unique lifestyle look for 20 years, with an eye on fashion, jewelry, and home décor. Inspired by vintage themes with romantic and Victorian elements, Negrin’s creations are made with Swarovski crystals and luxe fabrics. www.michalnegrin.com. Mall of Berlin T: 030.20143466. U Mohrenstraße. E3
MYKITA Hand-assembled in their manufactory in Mitte, these designer glasses combine precision craftsmanship with new technologies. What started out in an old nursery (Kita) has now received worldwide acclaim. www.mykita.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6. T: 030.67308715. S+U Alexanderplatz, U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Zeha Founded over 100 years ago, the Zeha label earned success with its sports shoes, which became the official sneakers of East German Olympic athletes. The company paid homage to its founder by resurrecting the retro style of the ‘50s with its Carl Häßner Collection, still a bestseller today. www.zeha-berlin.de. Prenzlauer Allee 22. T: 030.44034607. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE
shoes UK
US
clothes Euro
UK
women 3 4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9 10
8 9 10 11 12 13
Xs s m l
6 8 10 12 14 16
8 9 10 11 12 13
2 4 6 8 10 12
34 36 38 40 42 44
men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47
s m l
34 36 38 40 42 44
Children 7 8 9 10 11 12
Euro
women 36 37 38 39 41 42
men 7 8 9 10 11 12
US
34 36 38 40 42 44
44 46 48 50 52 54
Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13
110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170
UNIQLO, Tauentzienstr. 7b/c. Bimba y Lola, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.
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SIGHTSEEING
The Hallowed Halls Of Hansa
D
avid Bowie is belting out the climax of “Heroes,” a song I’ve heard hundreds of times before. But this time is different. It isn’t merely the acoustically perfect sound or the clarity of the singer’s yearning voice. I’m listening to the album in the very room where it was recorded, mere feet away from where Bowie himself wrote the lyrics before recording them on the flashing soundboard before me. His actual voice – not a recording – has echoed off these very walls. I’m in the world-famous Hansa Studios, a studio that has seen numerous musical legends pass through its doors. The number of classic albums that have been recorded or produced here is staggering: U2’s Achtung Baby, Iggy Pop’s The Idiot and Lust for Life, and, of course, the famous Bowie “Berlin trilogy” albums of Low, “Heroes,” and Lodger (p. 12). Director Anton Corbijn’s video of U2’s One was partially shot at
Hansa. The performer list is a veritable who’s who of music history. Our tour guide, Thilo Schmeid, switches tracks using his smartphone, which he’s hooked up to the soundboard, and a new sound pulsates throughout the room. I recognize the song from the first notes: Depeche Mode’s Stripped, from one of the band’s Hansa albums, Black Celebration. Schmeid has already regaled tour attendees with how a famous Depeche photo was taken on the foyer staircase and told tales of band songwriter Martin Gore recording Somebody in his birthday suit in the Meistersaal, a former chamber music hall that was formerly used as Hansa’s Studio 2. The near-perfect acoustics of the Meistersaal – the “Great Hall by the Wall,” as it’s known to music-industry folk – was once the main draw for musicians and their engineers, who were downright giddy at the tones the room produced.
Stripped begins to wind down and Schmeid prepares us to listen for a particular moment in the song. He’s explained that the band, famous for incorporating unconventional, non-musical sounds, labored to perfect the recording of a firework, and we all wait for the muffled whiz-zap. Hearing the two-second sound is like a revelation, even to those amongst us who aren’t devoted Depeche fans. The ersatz concert over, our group prepares to go, all of us reluctant to leave the hallowed halls any sooner than necessary. We take turns getting pictures of ourselves at the soundboard, then linger in the reception area, deciding which piece of Hansa swag to bring home as a souvenir. We finally depart, feeling a bit like heroes ourselves. Just for one day. Note that visits to Hansa Studios are available only through Berlin Music Tours (p. 39).
All photos: © Jenna Rose Robbins
Berlin’s famous recording studio is sacred ground to many music lovers. As one of the devout, Jenna Rose Robbins made the pilgrimage.
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com
Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/4. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2
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Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals due to its curvy shape, the building that is now home to the House of the Cultures of the World was originally built as a congress hall in 1956 but quickly became a symbol of Western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm, and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Daily 10am–7pm. Prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3
The Good Harvest On 11 November, families all over Germany celebrate Martinstag, or Saint Martin's day, a holiday to honor the kind-hearted Roman soldier who reportedly cut his cloak in half to share it with a beggar in order to keep him from freezing. In Germany, the celebrations include the consumption of a large goose (Gans) served with red cabbage and dumplings, as the feast also symbolizes the good harvest and the beginning of the winter. Children usually participate in the more secular lantern festival that falls on the same night, singing and swinging paper lanterns in a procession towards a large bonfire. This year, the Kinderbauernhof at Ufa-Fabrik will once again be holding a Laternenfest for children on the evening of Nov 11. www.kinderbauernhof.nusz.de. Viktoriastr. 13. T: 030 7517244.
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under-6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2
Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow
medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–7:30pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonwww.wheretraveler.com 35
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SIGHTSEEING Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3
Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola
Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3
Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–7pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center
Through The Courtyards Of Time The Hackesche Höfe is a quiet and introspective sightseeing stop, especially after sundown, when the last rays of sunlight bounce off the tiled walls. Designed in the Art Nouveau style by August Endell in 1906, the façades of these eight interconnected courtyards are decorated with polychrome glazed bricks, which the architect arranged to give the impression of liveliness and movement. A walk through the courtyards yields a multitude of curiosities that, a hundred years ago, were mostly home to work- and repair shops. Such curiosities include the cabaret theater Chamäleon (p. 56), jewelry boutique Perlin, the Hackesche Höfe Kino cinema, and Sophienclub, one of the most popular clubs of the former GDR. www.hackesche-hoefe.com
East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Holocaust Memorial
stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2
Checkpoint Charlie
Karl-Marx-Allee
During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
KPM Berlin
Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as KPM Berlin, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, enjoy the café, and – of course – Germans are the world's shop for beautiful hand-painted second biggest beer porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. drinkers, after the Wegelystr. T: 030.390090. Czechs. S Tiergarten. C3
MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaustmahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving
due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3
Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany,
Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately run exhibit explores the crafty inventions used by East Germans to escape East Germany, including Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot-air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts. Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built in 1936 by prisoners as a model concentration
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MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3
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SIGHTSEEING Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20/16 (discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3
Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6pm. Zoo or aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Botanischer Garten
The infamous Berlin Wall stood for 29 years, but from 1737 to 1860, the city was surrounded by another wall, one which served both as fortification and as a means of facilitating the levying of taxes on imports and exports. Many of the U-Bahn stations today are named after the city's tollgates, the most important having been the Brandenburg Gate, while the southernmost part of the fortification follows today’s U1 line, with gates located at Hallesches Tor, Kottbusser Tor, and Schlesisches Tor. The tollgate on the Spree River blocking the waterway to discourage smugglers was a giant boom made of spiked tree trunks. This barrier, called an Oberbaum, was what gave the Oberbaumbrücke (pictured) its name. .‚‚ camp, Sachsenhausen saw mainly political prisoners in its first years, while Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” arrived a few years later. Daily 8:30am–6pm (midOct–mid-Mar until 4:30pm); Mon museums and exhibitions closed. Free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than
20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm. €5/2.50. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map
Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters
of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the
central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. To Jan 3: Germany 1945: The Last Months of the War. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4
Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of
Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E4
Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon– Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map
Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. The legendary wax museum also has a section explaining how the figures are made.
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Berlin’s Other Wall
This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map
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SIGHTSEEING Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 9pm). €21/16, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other
sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke. Off Map
Tours & Guided Walks Berlinagenten
These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Created as hunting grounds for the Electors Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and of Brandenburg, the park we know today was makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond urban experience – a graffiti workshop. with boat rentals and a café, as well as From €300. many pleasant trails to explore. The www.berlinagenten.com. park also houses a zoo, a number Bornholmer Str. 4. of embassies, and the Schloss T: 030.43720701. Berliners have Bellevue, the residence of the
Tiergarten Park
President of Germany. S Tiergarten, S Bellevue. C3, D3
nicknamed the Victory Column "Goldelse," akin to "Golden Lizzy."
Potsdam Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
Berlin Music Tours
Choose from a score of musicthemed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.
Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.
CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.
Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24047991.
Original Berlin Walks
© Spy Museum Berlin
World Capital Of Spies With the declaration that Berlin is the "world capital of spies," the Spy Museum chose to open right in the middle of the capital, just off Potsdamer Platz. Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. www.spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. T: 030 20603852.
Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin, and Christmas markets (in December). No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point shortly before the tour begins. www.berlinwalks.de. Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10. T: 030.3019194.
Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. Drivers must know how to drive a manual transmission. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030. www.wheretraveler.com 39
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Through Max Beckmann’s Eyes Art can offer insights into the past. The Max Beckmann exhibition at the Berlinische Galerie took Solveig Steinhardt back to the early-20th-century atmosphere of the Weimar Republic.
T
he Berlinische Galerie (p. 44), which reopened in 2015 after extensive renovation, focuses on Berlin-related art and architecture from all eras. This month, the museum will examine the early 20th century through the eyes of artist Max Beckmann, whose very close relationship with the city led his contemporaries to define him as the epitome of the “new Berlin” of the 1920s. Beckmann, often classified as an Expressionist artist despite his lifelong rejection of the term and the movement, spent two periods of his career in the German capital, but decided to exile himself to Amsterdam when the Nazi party
confiscated 500 of his works, displaying from medieval art, the artist was able them in the notorious Degenerate Art to create a very individual version of exhibition in Munich. But even after his Modernism, which he used to recount the departure, the artist continued to maintain decadent glamour of the Weimar Republic’s personal and professional ties with the cabaret culture in Berlin and, later, the city, and his works, which encompass print, brutalities of the Nazi regime. Opening sculpture, and painting, on 20 November, Max “His contemporaries called Beckmann and Berlin have mostly kept a thematic link with Berlin Beckmann the epitome of presents the artist’s even from afar. paintings and selfthe ‘new Berlin.’” Beckmann always portraits, depicting rejected non-representational problems during his time in the city and painting, favoring figurative works that are giving insights into how Beckman saw relatively easy to grasp. Drawing from artists himself as an artist and the world around like Cézanne and Van Gogh but also him.
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previous page: Selbstbildnis Florenz by Max Beckmann: © VG BILD-KUNST Bonn, 2015, Photo by Elke Walford; Quappi mit Papagei by Max Beckmann: © VG BILD-KUNST Bonn, 2015. This page: photo peter lindbergh 2015, courtesy of wim wenders.
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Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 16 May: The Struggle for Troy. Restored in the 19th century by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the sculptures depicting the Trojan Wars are on display once again. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs,and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat– Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map
DDR Museum
Filmic Photos From A Legend Of Cinema Acknowledged as one Germany’s greatest living film directors, Wim Wenders received critical acclaim early on in his career for his trilogy of road movies, which were both touchstones of the 1960s New German Cinema movement and visually arresting works that made locations as integral to the stories as any of the characters. Now the cinema legend returns to the photographic medium to present his iconic views of landscapes in his first Berlin exhibition in six years, Time Capsules. By the Side of the Road. Places familiar to Wenders’ fans, including the American West and Berlin landmarks, figure prominently, including two shots that show the marked transformation Potsdamer Platz underwent in just three years – and which stand in stark contrast to the barren landscape of the area as captured in 1987’s Wings of Desire. The gallery’s expansive space befits the ultra-large format of the prints, some as wide as three meters (10 feet), which evoke the Romantic paintings of Caspar David Friedrich and Andrew Wythe. To 14 Nov. Blain|Southern, Potsdamer Str. 77-87. www.blainsouthern.com
Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
and culture. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies focuses on the past 150 years of queer history in Germany; in conjunction with the Deutsches Historisches Museum. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Deutsches Historisches Museum
Georg-Kolbe-Museum
MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies focuses on the past 150 years of queer history in Germany. To 3 Jan: Unification explores the challenges faced by the newly-unified Germany after the fall of the Wall. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art,
An idyllic garden houses the studio of the German Secessionist artist who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map
Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,
shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 15 Nov: Obedience. The story of Abraham, Isaac, and Ismael in multimedia form. To 15 Dec: In a Foreign Country presents first-hand
stories of displaced Jews after the Holocaust. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin. de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4
Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. To 15 Jan: The Pacifist Ernst Friedrich: Special exhibition of the powerful photography of the pacifist and founder of Berlin’s first anti-war museum. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 24 Jan: The Botticelli Coup presents the revival of interest in Sandro Botticelli and the
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES controversial circumstances surrounding the acquisition of the collection in the 19th century. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3
Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 6 Dec: Piet Mondrian. The Line. Artistic developments of one of the most iconic artists of the 20th century. To 13 Dec: Russia and Germany follows the two nations’ journey from confrontation to cooperation on the celebration of the 70th anniversary of the end of WWII. To 10 Jan: From Hockney to Holbein focuses on 250 of the 16,000 works found in the Würth private collection. To 31 Jan: Germaine Krull. Photographs highlights one of the 20th century’s most important photographers. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4
Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Museum of Asian Art The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Route. To 6 Jan: Jaipur and Amber in the Photography of the 19th Century. Prints and panoramas of the two lively and picturesque cities that captivated the first photographers of India. To 6 Jan: RAGAMALA examines music and love in relation to Indian music theory. To 10 Jan: Tigers, Cranes, Beautiful Women. Symbolic in the art of the Far East, these recurring motifs are found in this exhibition of large-scale folding screens. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map
Museum for Communication
Rock’s Photographic Legacy
One of today’s most internationally acclaimed photographers and director of the James Dean biopic Life, Anton Corbijn started out as a self-taught newcomer capturing the performances of local bands. Today the Dutch artist is renowned for having immortalized the visuals of artists such as U2, Metallica, Johnny Cash, Björk, and Depeche Mode. Evocative, emotional, and monochromatic, about 600 pieces of his iconic work are on display at the C/O Berlin (p. 44) in a two-part retrospective series titled Hollands Deep and 1-2-3-4. From 7 Nov.
An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once housed Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors, while iPads make perfect tour guides through the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. To 21 Feb: Jetzt Wächst Zumammen, Was Zusammen Gehört explores development of the postal and communication network in former East Germany after 1990. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3
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Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 15 Nov: Newton. Horvat. Brodziak. Newton’s works are shown in conjunction with those of fashion and portrait photographers Frank Horvat and Szymon Brodziak. To 10 Jan: Pale Pink and Light Blue displays more than 200 of the most significant images and photographs of the Meiji Era, a time of rapid Europeanization in Japan during the late 19th century. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
Museum The Kennedys When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 16 Nov: Egypt’s Emergence into History takes a look at the origins of early Egyptian culture, focusing on the mastery of mediums such as stone and ivory. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
A world of exhibitions
Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 24 Jan: How Islamic Art Came to Berlin celebrates the founding and lasting impact of the Museum of Islamic Art, located inside the Pergamon Museum. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www. spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
ART GALLERIES Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3
Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Berlinische Galerie
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art. To Jan 1: Expressiveness in Art. The Crucifixion by the Master of Meßkirch from the Würth Collection features 30 historical works from the Kunsthammer Würth, the historical “cabinet of art” from one of Germany’s most renowned private collections. To 30 Mar: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. From 7 Nov: Anton Corbijn. Retrospective. A retrospective of over 600 of Corbijn’s works, split up into two themed series. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org. Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Dalí – The Exhibition
Homage To Blitzkrieg Bop It may have made more sense to put the world’s only Ramones Museum and Bar in the punk rockers’ hometown of New York, but Berlin has proven more than worthy of the honor. Dee Dee Ramone’s own ties to the city – he spent a large chunk of his formative years in the old West – and the band’s many song references (Blitzkrieg Bop, Born to Die in Berlin) give weight to the location choice of museum founder Flo Hayler, who’s amassed some 500 pieces of memorabilia for music lovers to peruse – and use. Fans can sit in furniture owned by the band as they watch classic flicks like Rock ‘N’ Roll High School or hang out in the split-level living room while knocking back a beer. Not just for diehard fans, the museum offers a personal glimpse into an oft-overlooked – and maligned – era in rock history (that being punk rock). Pay the entry fee and you’re a lifetime museum member, or upgrade to one of the combo-ticket options, which include either a free beer or t-shirt with your admission. The adjoining ‘70s-motif bar is far mellower than would be expected from its punk-rock heritage: In lieu of slamdancing, visitors can kick back with a slice of cake and a cappuccino. And another beer. See website for upcoming concerts (not by the Ramones). Krausnickstr. 23. www.ramonesmuseum.com. T: 030 75528889. of the city, and extends after Art Week is over. From 25 Nov: Jackson Pollock’s “Mural”: Energy Made Visible. Rarely on loan outside of University of Iowa’s Museum of Art, Pollock’s work, considered one of the most important in American Modernism, is on display in Berlin after undergoing 18 months of cleaning in Los Angeles. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle. de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily The Altes Museum was noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. built between 1823 and www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 1830 by famed architect 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. Karl Friedrich U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 24 Jan: The Botticelli Renaissance explores the influence and appropriations of Botticelli’s work in modern art. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5.
Schinkel.
With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 8 Nov: STADT/ BILD. Xenopolis is one of four in a series of Berlin Art Week exhibits that examines various aspects
Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery
www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Hamburger Bahnhof CL904The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 21 Nov: Neue Galerie: The Years of Darkness. Works from the Neue Nationalgalerie created between 19331945, including works by Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz, are on display here until the building is completely renovated. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts,
© Jenna Rose Robbins
A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 20 Nov: This Is Us consists of nine series of portrait photography, taken with a variety of methods and techniques, from the studio to the street. From 20 Nov: Max Beckmann and Berlin reveals the lasting artistic impact Berlin as a city had on artist Beckmann, even after he emigrated to the Netherlands. To 15 Feb: Ich kenne kein Weekend – The René Block Archives is dedicated to gallery owner Block’s influence and role in advancing art in Berlin. To 21 Mar: The Dialogic City. One of four exhibitions put on by leading Berlin art institutions, revealing how the planning for the city comes to life. Wed– Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4
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and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 22 Nov: Extended Reality features thought-provoking works by Polish conceptual artist Alicja Kwade. Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map
Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmut-newton.de. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map
me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Take a walk though
Berlin’s history
Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The
Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
The Network
People, Cables, Data Streams
Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
A new exhibition about the networked world Opens 09.09.2015
Podbielski Contemporary, 27 Nov–23 Jan: Shtainer: new works, photography. Koppenplatz 5. www.podbielskicontemporary.com; Galerie Michael Schultz, 21 Nov–12 Dec: Andy Denzler: Breakfast with Velázquez, paintings. Mommsenstr. 34. www.schultzberlin.com; Galerie Poll, 27 Nov– 13 Feb: Ralf Kerbach: paintings and drawings. Gipsstr. 3. www.poll-berlin.de; Janinebeangallery, 14 Nov–2 Jan: Lori Field: Tyger Tyger, drawings. Torstr. 154. www.janinebeangallery.com; Köppe Contemporary, 26 Nov–9 Jan: Hans Jürgen Simon: Remission 6, printmedia works. Knausstr. 19. www.villa-koeppe.de.
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DINING
Coffee With A Side Of History
F
rom the very first glance, it’s clear that Café Einstein Stammhaus is not your typical Berlin café. The remarkably well-preserved Neo-Renaissance villa oozes history and old-timey elegance. Built in 1878, the Schöneberg estate was the home of wealthy Jewish banker Georg Blumenfeld during the heady 1920s Weimar Republic era, when he threw luxurious parties with aristocrats and silent-film stars before the Nazis seized the building for use as an SS outpost. The next chapter in the building’s story began in 1979, when the villa was remodeled in the style of a turn-of-the-
century Viennese coffeehouse. Today, marble tabletops, soaring ceilings, gilded walls, classic wooden furnishings, and beautiful parquet floors lend Café Einstein Stammhaus a grand, inspiring ambience, the perfect spot for enjoying a lingering breakfast over a newspaper or an afternoon coffee break. The kitchen serves fine Austro-German cuisine from early until late, drawing regulars with specialties like schnitzel or Tafelspitz boiled beef. Make sure to save room for a fat slice of Einstein’s famous apple strudel and a Wiener Melange, a milky Viennese coffee similar to a
cappuccino. In the evenings, the 1920s vibe extends upstairs into Lebensstern, a classy cocktail bar boasting a collection of more than 600 varieties of rum and 150 of gin. As with many Berlin stories, the history of the villa has its tragic twist as well: After the Nazis came to power in the 1930s, Georg Blumenfeld and his wife lost everything and committed suicide. Brass Stolpersteine memorials embedded in the sidewalk before the entrance commemorate the two. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030 26391918. www.cafeeinstein.com
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In a city where the past lurks behind every corner, one of Hilda Hoy’s favorite places for coffee and strudel has many stories to tell.
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RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS
DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
FINE DINING 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3
Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com
First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
ENJOY FROM MO-FR OUR SPECIAL LUNCH OFFERS FROM NOON TO 3 PM.
– Golden November –
Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, L, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3
From November 11th at Maximilians. Friedrichstr. 185 · U-Bhf. Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de
Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030. 89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5 Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank has built himself a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Vegetarian options available. Warm, wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio for the warmer months. €€€. Wed– Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-LinckeUfer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Hugos
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Horváth
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DINING Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine. Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den
Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course
“Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4
Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2
Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4
Vau At once luxurious and minimalist, the Michelinstarred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city. Headed by star chef Kolja Kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a TV cooking show, the kitchen combines the best of French and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54–55. T: 030.2029730. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3
Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Japanese cuisine may be amongst the world’s most revered, but until recently, few restaurants here focused on fine Japanese dining, catering instead to the masses with cheap fusion sushi. The opening of Zenkichi in February, however, expanded Berlin’s culinary horizons – and set the bar high. Upstairs is the cheery, sunlit House of Small Wonder café (p. 50), run by the same husband-wife team as Zenkichi. But descend downwards and you’ll discover a subterranean oasis of Zen, a subdued labyrinth of tables tucked away in intimate booths, surrounded by plenty of dark wood and bamboo. The attentive servers are summoned by a press of the call buttons located at each table. The mission of Zenkichi is to transport diners to Tokyo for the evening, so although ordering à la carte is an option, the adventurous should leave their culinary destiny in the chef’s hands with the eight-course omakase menu, which means “I’ll leave it to you.” Depending on what’s in season, this will translate into sashimi from the freshest fish of the day, delicate homemade tofu, seared scallops in delicate broth, grilled Alaskan cod with miso marinade, or perfectly light tempura dipped in matcha green tea salt. Three different sake tastings – basic, premium, and connoisseur – offer delicious insight into the wide world of fine Japanese spirits. Johannisstr. 20. T: 030. 24630810. www.zenkichi.de
Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes
fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4
Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the
bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner
Courtesy of Zenkichi
A Yen For Eating Zen
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menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4
Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including
Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4
Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. Religious influences aside, the thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4
FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-
stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3
Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3
Transit
Authentic Korean In Mitte As Berlin’s love affair with Korean cuisine continues unabated, another restaurant has entered the scene to appeal to the appetites of local kimchi, bulgogi, and bibimbap fans. Gogogi has not only a prime location and cool décor going for it, but also a dedication to quality that’s evident in every bite. The recently opened restaurant just off Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte is the creation of three young artists from Seoul, which explains the artsy interior of polished concrete and repurposed dark wood. Unlike many Asian restaurants in Berlin, the menu doesn’t dabble in fusion-style experiments but focuses instead on making traditional dishes and making them well. That means homemade hot pepper paste, soy sauce, and kimchi, plus a dedication to using only organic, free-range pork and beef from a farm in the south of Germany. The changing lunch menu features a variety of home-style set meals and classic bibimbap, rice with beef and vegetables sizzling in a heated stone bowl, while dinnertime is your chance to try out the tabletop barbecue. Should the gochujang pepper marinade get a bit too spicy, quench the heat with one of the fruity and refreshing cocktails made with soju, a Korean rice liquor. Weinbergsweg 24. T: 030 55246141. www.gogogi.de
Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www. jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal Kimchi Princess encompassing a wide range of tastes Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” and ingredients. When in Mitte, try implores the website for this hip, their second location at Rosenthaler popular Korean restaurant. The Str. 68. house specialty is the meaty €–€€. Daily L&D. German bread is among tabletop barbecue to be split www.transit-restaurants.com. the best in the world, and there are some 600 between two or more diners, which Sonntagstr. 28. varieties from which comes with all the traditional side T: 030.26948415. S to choose. dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Ostkreuz. Off Map Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. Hasir T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4 Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be Restaurant Richard the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has French/Swiss. The nondescript street belies the since expanded to six locations around the city. splendor of Richard’s gourmet creations and The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a interior, which includes carved wooden ceilings and very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of stained-glass. The 19th-century architecture gets a what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the modern boost from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4 T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
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Kreuzberg
Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint
Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4
Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kotbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4
Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4
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DINING Mitte AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3
Bandol sur Mer French. This tiny, hip, and very trendy French
restaurant deserves accolades for its food, though part of its popularity is no doubt due to the fact that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie famously dined here. Reservations a must. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.bandolsurmer.de. Torstr. 167. T: 030.67302051. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian
dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant – down a concrete back alley and up graffitied stairs. Then there’s the food, vegetarian
eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to the mastery of celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3
Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3
Dóttir Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40. T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Dudu Asian Creative. This trendy spot (whose name means "papaya" in Vietnamese) just off busy Rosenthaler Platz has earned many fans with its modern, fresh pan-Asian cuisine. Inventive fusion-type sushi is a mainstay of the menu, plus noodle and rice bowls that take advantage of Asian seasoning. €€. Daily L&D. www.dudu-berlin.de. Torstr. 134. T: 030.51736854. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2
Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of
Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3
House of Small Wonder American Fusion. The Berlin outpost of Brooklyn favorite. An unlikely yet delicious hybrid of Japanese, American, and European cuisines – with a delicious dash of Tex-Mex. Okinawan taco rice, anyone? www.houseofsmallwonder.de. Johannisstr. 20. T: 030.27582877. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. Located on the roof of the Reichstag building, the restaurant boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Maximilians
With more than 200 wines and a kitchen that serves only one main dish a day, Briefmarken has its priorities, and clearly states them on the sign outside: “Grandi Vini, Piccola Cucina.” The Karl-Marx-Allee restaurant prides itself on its vast selection of vintages, which the wine menu categorizes by the four elements of fire, air, water, and earth. Many who come to sample a glass or two find themselves lingering in the warm and inviting ambiance of the former stampcollector’s shop, which still retains relics of its past, such as the original wallpaper that was rediscovered during renovations. A small but satisfying menu of Italian appetizers, as well as a single daily entrée of homemade pasta, allows the lingering to last even longer. The added plus of exceptional service has allowed Briefmarken to enjoy a loyal following purely on word of mouth. Come thirsty. Karl-Marx-Allee 99. T: 030 42025292. www.briefmarkenweine.de
Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s homegrown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the highest caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.srabua-adlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Courtesy of Briefmarken
Wine And Dine – In That Order
German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3
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SOME LIKE IT HOT Chocolate makes you happy; hot chocolate keeps you warm. For extreme pleasure, visit one of the chocolate wonderlands we’ve selected.
Taste Of The Season Few things say winter more than a bag of hot chestnuts. The hard, double-skinned fruits stay warm for a long time and are like miniature heaters for freezing hands and hungry stomachs. Around the holiday season, Christmas markets citywide roast delicious chestnuts, perfuming the surroundings with a warm, cozy scent. Wrap your hands around a paper cone of roasted Maronen and enjoy a hearty taste of German yuletide.
Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere hall is raucous and the
service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek
so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Tiergarten Balikci Ergün
© istock.
Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant,
with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Café Einstein Stammhaus German/Austrian. The 1878 Neo-Renaissance villa housing this Viennese-style coffee house makes for a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with a coffee and a good book in oldtimey ambiance. Recommended: a slice of the café's famous apple strudel paired with a Wiener Melange coffee. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Paris-Moskau International. This rustic house, built in 1898
and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a pub and a Russian restaurant in two of its many past lives. Today, it’s a fine restaurant that seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German culinary influences in a nostalgic setting. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3
Winterfeldt schokoladen With an impressive selection of chocolate from all over the world, the Schöneberg shop serves thick, Spanish-style cupfuls of hot chocolate that you need to eat with a spoon. Savor the spiced concoctions, and pile on the marshmallows for the kids. Goltzstr. 23. T: 030 23623256. www.winterfeldt-schokoladen.de
Fassbender & Rausch Founded in 1863, the family-run emporium features monumental chocolate sculptures as well as deliciously prepared hot chocolates. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030 757882443 www.fassbender-rausch.de
NIBS CACAO Craving rich chocolate in liquid form? Nibs Cacao serves traditional Spanish hot chocolate with churros. Or warm up with the thinner “American Dream” version of the warm beverage, topped with little marshmallows. Bleibtreustr. 46. T: 030 34726300. www.nibscacao.de
Ritter sport bunte schokowelt Heaven for chocolate lovers, the Schokowelt spans four floors filled with the famous chocolate bars. The café serves various chocolate specialties made with melted Ritter Sport bars. Französiche Str. 24. T: 030 20095080. www.ritter-sport.de
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Marilyn Manson: Courtesy of Marilyn Manson; Editors: ®RAHI REZVANI; Foo Fighters: Courtesy of RCA.
ENTERTAINMENT
The Month Of Music With an uncontainable love for music, Serene Tseng stays warm during November by attending countless concerts in the capital.
A
s the largest city in Germany, Berlin is a sure stop for most every artist touring the continent, and this month the city’s concert calendar is even more packed with noteworthy bands than usual. After Madonna (p. 66), the biggest name on the November roster is Seattle’s Foo Fighters. Despite frontman Dave Grohl’s mid-tour accident earlier this June, which resulted in a broken leg and all subsequent European tour dates being canceled, the alt-rockers return to Europe to continue their 20th-anniversary tour. (8 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena, p. 56). Tempelhof’s C-Halle plays host to some of the month’s biggest acts, both old and new. Kicking off the schedule on 2 November are Icelandic indie darlings Of Monsters and Men,
whose quirky sound has proven surprisingly popular, with such hits as Little Talks and King and Lionheart. Not skipping a beat after a string of October gigs in the Southern US, Marilyn Manson hits C-Halle (6 Nov) to support The Pale Emperor, an album Rolling Stone describes as an “old-fashioned art-rock tantrum.” The venue’s stage is taken over a few days later (9 Nov) by English post-punk revivalists Editors, whose dark indie sound is often compared to Joy Division and Interpol. The band’s most recent full-length release, In Dream, comes highly recommended by worldfamous DJ Paul van Dyk (p. 10). Prefer your bands loud and full of thrash? Then don’t miss the double-header of Slayer and special guest
Anthrax, who tear up the stage on 12 Nov. Heading over to the nightclub circuit, worldfamous Berghain (p. 59) presents Canadian synth-pop outfit Purity Ring, making its second Berlin visit this year on 11 November. Starting the musical month off on a warm note is Jaga Jazzist, the award-winning experimental jazz group from Norway, who performs at Kreuzberg venue Gretchen. Near the end of the month, on 24 November, fans have a difficult choice to make when two big acts take different stages in the capital. Classic rockers Deep Purple perform at MaxSchmeling-Halle (www.max-schmeling-halle. de), while Hamburg’s own hip-hop trio Fettes Brot, supporting their release Teenagers vom Mars, stop for a night at Tempodrom (p. 56). www.wheretraveler.com 53
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ENTERTAINMENT
The Wyld, a €10-million production that is both a cosmic love story and homage to Berlin, has been compared to Vegas shows for its stunning visuals and over-the-top special effects. All month. Admiralspalast (p. 56)
Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 12 Nov: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 13 Nov: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 22, 25, 28 Nov: Aida (Verdi). 26, 29 Nov: The Nutcracker (Tschaikovsky) performed by the Staatsballet. www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 8, 9, 12, 22, 30 Nov: Snow White and the 77 Dwarves 15, 20, 30 Nov: West Side Story. 6, 14, 21, 29 Nov: La Belle Hélène (Offenbach) 28 Nov: My Fair Lady. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3
Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 14–16 Nov: Hänsel and Gretel. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 27–28 Nov: Onegin (Tchaikovsky). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year, many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3
Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 4–8 Nov: The Story of Babar, children’s opera with puppets. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3
Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other acclaimed ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 6 Nov: Pianist Krystian Zimerman performs Schubert. 11 Nov: Films by Hugo Niebeling. 29–30 Nov: Francois-Xavier Roth (cond.), with soprano Anna Catarina Antonacci. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.
Dance & Experimental Spaces Dock 11 Studios & Eden***** Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary
© Robert Grischek
Ballet & Opera
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performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map
HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) This confluence of culture is renowned for its cutting-edge shows and hip performances. www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4
Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space, founded in 2006, is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts a wide variety of performances that often test new artistic formats or involve audience participation. www.radialsystem. de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3
Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s
Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!
Courtesy of Simple Minds
From Oct. 29: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!
Don’t You (Forget About Them)
Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Discover ORIGINAL MONDAY at KulturBrauerei, feat. select undubbed films with German subtitles! Info and tickets at cinestar.de
Although considered a one-hit wonder for their hit single Don’t You (Forget About Me) from The Breakfast Club soundtrack, Simple Minds has enjoyed a career that dates back to the late 1970s. Touring in support of their latest album, Big Music, the Scottish rockers present both new cuts and their greatest hits, including Alive and Kicking. 18 Nov. Tempodrom (p. 56).
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ENTERTAINMENT
on this month Plays & Musicals Beyond The Horizon All month, Theater am Potsdamer Platz (p. 57)
Blue Man Group All month, Bluemax Theatre (p. 56)
Chicago: THe Musical All month, Theater des Westens (p. 57)
Lord of the Dance Stars In Concert All month, Estrel Festival Center (p. 56)
Wunderkammer All month, Chamäleon Variete (p. 56)
The Wyld All month, Friedrichstadt-Palast (p. 56)
Ballet & Classical HÄnsel and Gretel 14–16 Nov, Staatsballett (p. 54)
The Magic Flute (Mozart) 13 Nov, Deutsche Oper (p. 54)
The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky) 26, 29 Nov, Deutsche Oper (p. 54)
The Story of Babar 4–8 Nov, Konzerthaus (p. 54)
West Side Story 15, 20, 30 Nov, Komische Oper (p. 54)
Pop, Rock & Jazz Deftones 18 Nov, Columbiahalle (p. 56)
Foo Fighters 8 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena (p. 56)
Jazzfest Berlin 5–8 Nov, various venues (p. 8)
Madonna 10–11 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena (p. 56)
Midge Ure 1 Nov, Tempodrom (p. 56)
NENA 6 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena (p. 56)
New Order 11 Nov, Tempodrom (p. 56)
Randy Newman 1 Nov, Admiralspalast (p. 56)
Simply Red 3 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena (p. 56)
Whitesnake 16 Nov, Columbiahalle (p. 56) For more concerts, see p. 53.
If you missed the chance to see Michael Jackson on tour, Thriller – Live is the next best thing, featuring 30 of the King of Pop’s greatest hits. 12–15 Nov. Admiralspalast (p. 56). first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and popular new releases. www.yorck.de. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5
Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale film festival offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de. Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Rock, Pop, Jazz, World A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4
Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4
B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2
Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacher Straße. D5
Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 2 Nov: Of Monsters and Men. 6 Nov: Marilyn Manson. 12 Nov: Slayer. 16 Nov: Whitesnake. 18 Nov: Deftones. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5
Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner
during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map
KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 5 Nov: Lord of the Dance. 6 Nov: NENA. 8 Nov: Foo Fighters. 10-11 Nov: Madonna. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 1 Nov: Randy
© Irina Chira
5 Nov, Mercedes-Benz Arena (p. 56)
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com Newman. 3 Nov: Manao, Drums of China. 12–15 Nov: Thriller – Live, a tribute to Michael Jackson. 17–29 Nov: Soy de Cuba. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4
Bimah, The Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but frequent Yiddish song performances appear on the roster. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Tony- and Oscar-winning play returns. www.stageentertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 6–10 Nov: Paul Morocco & Olé!: flamenco guitar and slapstick comedy. 17–19 Nov: Ennio, The Living Paper Cartoon. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3
Bluemax Theater The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Daily shows, except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chamäleon Theater An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Wunderkammer. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater. All month: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. Shows every day except Monday. www.palastberlin.eu. Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center offers plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4
GIUSEPPE
VERDI Messa da Requiem
04. NOV 15 / Wednesday / 8.00 pm 05. NOV 15 / Thursday / 8.00 pm PHILHARMONIE BERLIN
Abokonzert A/2 Sonderkonzert In cooperation with
MAREK JANOWSKI
Hulkar Sabirova / soprano Marina Prudenskaya / mezzo-soprano Stefano Secco / tenor Günther Groissböck / bass Rundfunkchor Berlin Gijs Leenaars / chorus master
Broadcasted by
GIUSEPPE VERDI „Messa da Requiem“ 6.45 pm pre-concert talk Südfoyer, introduction by Steffen Georgi
Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions, many of which with English surtitles. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4
Sternbergtheater Twice a week, this theater inside the Spielbank Berlin hosts comedian Karsten Kaie’s hilarious English-language show How To Become A Berliner In One Hour? Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. www.sternbergberlin.de. Toll number: 01806.570070. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
Theater am Potsdamer Platz The 1800-seat theater designed by Renzo Piano features musicals and international performances. All month: Beyond the Horizon, musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment. de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Theater des Westens One of Berlin’s most popular musical and operetta theaters. All Month: Chicago: The Musical. The
Marek Janowski
27. NOV 15 / Friday / 8.00 pm PHILHARMONIE BERLIN
Abokonzert C/3 Broadcasted by
MAREK JANOWSKI
Jacquelyn Wagner / soprano MDR Rundfunkchor Leipzig Michael Gläser / chorus master
Works by ANTON BRUCKNER, JOHANN SEBASTIAN BACH BENJAMIN BRITTEN 6.45 pm pre-concert talk Südfoyer, introduction by Steffen Georgi
Tickets +49 (0)30-20 29 8715 tickets@rsb-online.de www.rsb-online.de
In cooperation with
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NIGHTLIFE
To Riesling – And Beyond Though beer may be the country's better-known alcoholic export, connoisseurs know that German wine is also well worthy of attention, with varietals from 13 regions producing fine bottles of crisp whites and deep reds, fruity rosés, and sparkling bubblies. While the most lauded vineyards are located in the west of the country, great German wine also has a home in the capital. Look no further than these three wine bars that specialize in the best homegrown vintages. A good place to start is Kreuzberg’s Not Only Riesling (Schleiermacherstr. 25, www.not-only-riesling.de), which, as its name would suggest, broadens horizons beyond the well-known German grape variety. Sample some sauvignon,
spätburgunder, pinot noir, or, yes, some riesling, available by the glass or by the bottle from the bar’s substantial collection. The bar’s selection of gourmet German cheeses and charcuterie offer the perfect food pairing. For a wine list that extends beyond the country's borders, head to Mitte’s Cordobar (Große Hamburger Str. 32, www.cordobar. net), where the impressive collection focuses predominately on German and Austrian wines. At least 20 from each country can be ordered by the glass, while the bar’s cellars and shelves are filled with nearly 1000 exclusive wines, including some rarities dating back to the mid-1800s, which can be ordered by the bottle. The menu of tapas-sized plates to share is another draw,
changing every month to feature seasonal delights like pork crackling with Thai tom kha goong seasoning or smothered brisket with nectarines. Rutz (p. 48) is another spot pairing exceptional wine and food. Upstairs is the Michelin-starred Rutz restaurant, while downstairs is the more budget-friendly wine bar, where you can explore the wine list and try small nibbles or full meals from the award-winning kitchen. The choice may not be easy – a whole 23 pages of the wine list is dedicated to German varietals – but it will certainly be rewarding. The selection of homey German dishes like smoked pork belly with horseradish or roast duck with potato dumplings promises plenty of epicurean discoveries.
Courtesy of Cordobar
Hilda Hoy visited some of Berlin’s best wine bars to sample the delicious breadth of German wines.
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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
Café am Neuen See A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Club der Visionäre The canal-side boat shack attracts young crowds till early morning. Daily from 2pm until very late (Sat–Sun from noon). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Dicke Wirtin A Charlottenburg institution, this old-fashioned Berliner Kneipe restaurant serves great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and, of course, lots of beer. Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schleusenkrug The “beer garden in the Tiergarten” serves German specialties that complement your brew, including a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. 1. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Discover Europe’s capital of nightlife
Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Open daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
Clubs Adagio
Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Dress code strictly casual. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3
IMAGE © THINKSTOCK
A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
®
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NIGHTLIFE Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3
Gretchen
Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1
House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3
Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4
The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4
The Roses Berlin Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to disco, electro, and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Prenzlauer Berg's BRYK Bar has earned a rep for its "avant-garde" drinking concept and creative cocktails, which are as well known for their flavor as their unusual names. Try the Kamasutra With a Hangover. Rykestr. 18. T: 030 38100165. www.bryk-bar.com.
Tresor
LaBanca Bar
Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3
The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www. hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3
Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Wine & Cocktails Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful – a milk bottle topped with foil – to whimsical, like a pink mug with a pig’s-ear handle. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
Le Croco Bleu Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242. T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
The Oscar Wilde Irish Pub The first Irish pub in Mitte, offering classics like Kilkenny and Guinness. Big screen for sporting events. Daily 10am-3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www. oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Friedrichstr. 112a. T: 030.2828166. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Schwarzes Café Eat, drink, and be merry. It’s all possible at this 24hour spot, which combines a surprisingly elegant interior with an unpretentious atmosphere. Latenight kitchen and an affordable – not to mention exhaustive – cocktail menu. 24h daily except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4
Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and an elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. The Potsdamer Platz-adjacent bar attracts those seeking to enjoy an expertly mixed drink in a sophisticated setting. Daily 6:30pm–3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4
Courtesy of BRYK Bar
The Kreuzberg club is known for its international crowd and eclectic DJs, who spin funk, hip hop, drum & bass, and electronica. Occasional concerts. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. T: 030.25922702. U Mehringdamm, U Hallesches Tor. E4
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ESSENTIALS Useful Information
Berlin
T DA
IO
O N CI E R G E S
Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
PC
ADVICE
Emergency numbers
TO
RECO M M EN
EXPERT NS
F R O M B E R LI
N’
S
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.
Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com
Berlin Airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
Ask The Concierge Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Philipp Stopp, concierge at the Regent Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org Describe your perfect day in Berlin. Breakfast at Anna Blume in Prenzlauer Berg followed by a private boat tour along the seven lakes around Wannsee. Lunch break in Potsdam, then dinner at Volt restaurant. Where would you take out-of-town visitors? I would definitely show them the East Side Gallery and the food markets at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun.
Courtesy of Regent Berlin
Secret Berlin tips? Teufelsberg. From there you can see the whole city and take a look at the abandoned surveillance station used by the Americans during the Cold War. You'll need to book a walking tour to visit the inside, although many people just sneak. Another secret is Admiral Bridge (Admiralbrücke), particularly in the summertime. Everyone sits by the waterfront, playing music and grilling. Describe Berlin in three words. Multicultural, cool, diverse. What do you do after work? I go to the Spree River and enjoy the atmosphere, or have a drink at Meisterschüler Bar.
Tell us about your hotel. We are a small five-star-plus hotel in the heart of Berlin with some of the best personalized services in town. What has been your wildest experience as concierge? The Champions League final in 2015, when Italian soccer team Juventus stayed here at the Regent. The coziest place in Berlin? Savignyplatz in Charlottenburg, with its Mediterranean atmosphere and sidewalk cafés and restaurants. Tips for a German specialty? Konigsberger Klöpse, meatballs in a caper sauce, at Altes Zollhaus Berlin. What distinguishes Berlin from other cities? The architectural differences between the former East and West. Where in the city would you recommend for romance? The café at the Königliche Gartenakademie near the Botanical Garden, where you can have breakfast inside a greenhouse.
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
Getting Around Public Transport www.bvg.de.
Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you www.wheretraveler.com 61
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ESSENTIALS can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.60. Day tickets cost €6.90 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €16.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €29.50.
U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
S-Bahn
Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
Rail Travel
Originally named Unter den Linden, the S+U Brandenburger Tor station was one of the most heavily guarded Geisterbahnhöfe, or ghost stations, during the Cold War. The nickname came about because trains from the West would pass through without stopping. of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de. Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22. T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Engel & Voelkers
Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.
Real Estate Agencies
Rent A Bike
Allianz
Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.
Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com. Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients and provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Berlin Capital Investments
HIHC Horvat
Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.
Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.
Toll number: 0180.6003690
Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.
T: 030.8904370.
Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date
Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, entire buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map
One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr. 34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4
Guthmann Estate
Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Visit website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com. T: 030.52009700.
This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. Olympische Str. 1. T: 030.33099930. U Neu Westend. Off Map
Berlin Hyp Immobilien
Virtu - Finest Real Estate
Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60. T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3
Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16. T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3
Berlinmaegleren Covers a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offers rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30. T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide. Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures
Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2. T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Ziegert Immobilien Has a large portfolio of apartments in all of Berlin’s neighborhoods and helps clients understand the German real estate market, offering advice on investment possibilities. www.ziegert-immobilien. de. Schlüterstr. 54. T: 030.88035350. S Savignyplatz. B4
© istock
The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
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TRANSPORT MAP
BVG licence number: bvg-0079.13, 4 May 2015.
ESSENTIALS
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13/10/2015 15:20
U
[ WHERE IN BERLIN]
you really take the time to discover the city, you can experience many different cultures within ten minutes. It’s a really cool place. Bogotá is one of the main destinations for fine cuisine. It’s crazy, but nobody really talks
How would you describe Berlin? Berlin is a city that has everything. You can go to a three-star restaurant or just the diner around the corner. You can have it all. That’s in all areas. You can have off-the-beaten-path theater all the way to the opera house. I think this is what makes Berlin so special. And there’s a lot of green space and outdoors activities when the weather is nice. Where’s one of your favorite places to eat when you’re back in Berlin? I like Saigon Green (Kantstr. 23, www.saigonberlin.de). The chicken soup is outstanding. It’s one of the best in the world. I’m a soup fanatic, and that one’s so fresh that the vegetables are still crunchy when you bite into them. We sometimes drive all the way from Mitte just for this soup.
Saigon Green
What would you say is the most underrated restaurant in Berlin? A really good place called Tipica (Rosenstr. 19, www.tipica.de). It’s a Mexican restaurant and I love Mexican food. It’s as close as it gets to Mexican food outside the US or Mexico. The tacos al pastor are wonderful. And you like to cook. Where do you like to get your produce? You can get really fresh fish at FrischeParadies (www.frischeparadies).
Paul van Dyk [DJ/Music Producer]
Grammy winner Paul van Dyk is not only one of the world’s greatest DJs (the public voted him so two years running), he’s also a diehard Berliner who grew up in the East and now calls the Mitte district home. The artist, who has also contributed to several film and video game soundtracks, shares some of his favorite spots in the city, as well as why Berlin ist so wunderbar. FrischeParadies
What is some new music you’re excited about? The new Editors (p. 53) album. It’s actually surprisingly more electronic than I expected, but in a cool way.
Harajuku style from Toyko
What is your favorite Berlin club? One thing I’ve learned throughout my career is that there's no such thing as the best club, because you can go somewhere on Friday and it’s cool, and you come back on Saturday and it’s really s---. It all
depends on the music and the DJ, and if the door people are nice to you and the barkeepers are friendly. What are some of your favorite cities? I like New York because it’s extremely vibrant. But after three or four days, I’m almost overwhelmed. What I like about LA is that if
War poster at the German History Museum
about that. People who enjoy good food all have Bogotá on their list. And I love Tokyo. It’s a crazy place where you just see the craziest things. To them it’s normal; for us it’s crazy. And of course Berlin! What are some of your favorite museums? I live right near Museuminsel (Museum Island), so I just go across and visit everything there. It’s the variety that makes it: the Pergamon Museum (p. 43), the Altes Museum (p. 41), and so on. I have to say I’ve never managed to make it to the German History Museum (p. 41). I would like to see their take on East Germany. Sometimes historians take a somewhat comical view, and it was not comedy for the people that lived there. Any advice for those visiting Berlin? It’s the greatest place in the world if you spend your time with the right people. It can also be the most miserable place in the world if you spend it with the wrong people. So make sure you come with your best friends.
PAUL VAN DYK: © ISTOCK; SAIGON GREEN: COURTESY OF SAIGON GREEN; HARAJUKU FASHION: © ISTOCK; FISH: © ISTOCK; WWII POSTER: COURTESY DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM; NEFERTITI BUST: © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, PHOTO BY ACHIM KLEUKER.
My Perfect Day
66 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2015
WB NOV 2015 13 My Perfect Day 3.indd 66
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berliner galerien +museen INFO GUIDE
The citywide art guide BERLINER GALERIEN contains the current exhibition program for Berlin‘s art galleries and museums. Easy-to-use street maps provide clear directions to the exhibition venues. The guide is now available free of charge at Berlin’s art galleries and museums, visitBerlin tourist information, selected hotels, restaurants, bars and can also be downloaded from www.berliner-galerien.de. Check it out!
Connecting Contemporary Art Promoting Artists Serving collections at more than 60 spaces since 20 years – the Berlin Galleries of lvbg! Members Galerie Albrecht Galerie ART CRU Galerie Berlin Galerie Berlin-Baku EDITION BLOCK Galerie Brockstedt Berlin Brutto gusto C&Kunterwegs Galerie CAMERA WORK Circleculture Gallery Galerie cubus-m de freo gallery Galerie Deschler Berlin Galerie Horst Dietrich Galerie Kai Dikhas Galerie Dittmar Galerie Eigenheim entretempo kitchen gallery Galerie Friedmann-Hahn galerie gerken Grundemark Nilsson Gallery Galerie Michael Haas Galerie Hartwich Rügen Galerie Hirschmann Carlos Hulsch Galerie Hunchentoot Galerie IRRGANG Berlin janinebeangallery Jarmuschek + Partner JORDAN/SEYDOUX KÖPPE Contemporary GALERIE KORNFELD LEE galerie BERLIN Galerie LEO.COPPI Galerie Gilla Lörcher Anna Jill Lüpertz Gallery Galerie Martin Mertens mianki Gallery Robert Morat Galerie Salongalerie ››Die Möwe‹‹ Galerie Georg Nothelfer photo edition berlin Podbielski Contemporary Galerie Poll Michael Reid Gallery Galerie ROOT SCHMALFUSS BERLIN Galerie Thomas Schulte Galerie Michael Schultz Semjon Contemporary Galerie Sievi Galerie Springer Berlin subject object TAMMEN & PARTNER TVDÁRT Galerie Werkstattgalerie Westphal-Berlin Michael J. Wewerka Wichtendahl Galerie Woeske Gallery ZELLERMAYER Galerie ZHONG GALLERY zone B Sustaining Member Allianz SE - Repräsentanz Berlin Galleries Association of Berlin (lvbg) Landesverband Berliner Galerien e.V. Mohrenstraße 63 D-10117 Berlin-Mitte www.berliner-galerien.de
WB LVBG.indd 1
08/10/2015 08:51
www.porsche.com/drive
Porsche Drive. Let your emotions run free. Porsche fans are now able to experience the fascination of our brand in Berlin. Across the whole model range, Porsche Drive allows you to fulfill your personal dream of driving a sports car. Simply make your reservation online and pick up your Porsche at the Porsche Centre Berlin, Franklinstr. 23, 10587 Berlin. Ladies and gentlemen, start your engines.
Fuel consumption (in l/100 km) urban 11.6–11.3 · extra urban 7.6–7.3 · combined 9.0–8.7; CO2 emissions 212–204 g/km WB PORSCHE.indd 1
08/10/2015 08:49