Where Magazin August 2016 by Where Berlin/ DINAMIX Media GmbH

MALL OF BERLIN

is dancing

BEST OF SHOPPING Monday: Tuesday: Wednesday: Thursday: Friday: Saturday:

Discofox Swing Bachata Tango Ballroom Forrรณ 12 pm - 4pm Salsa starts at 4 pm

LEIPZIGER PLATZ 12

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Start: daily at 6 pm open Dance-Workshops 7 - 9 pm free dancing facebook.com/leipzigerplatz

MALL OF BERLIN

MALLOFBERLIN.DE

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Berlin

CONTENTS

08.16 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

8 Hot Dates

Permission has been granted to spoil your child at these cute locations.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from popculture to beer and space festivals.

SIGHTSEEING

Outdoor adventure ideas for the active sightseer.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Take XX your pick out of three exhibitions showing this month at the statuesque Martin-Gropius-Bau.

14 8

XXyour standard pizza and Not pasta - these Italians are doing it differently. Buon appetito!

66 My Berlin

Swen Roessler, concierge at the Grand Hyatt Berlin, shares his Berlin tips.

Berlin

BY HILDA HOY ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

SUMMER IN BERLIN

14 Way Down South

Berlin's idyllic south, filled with forest and lakes, feels like you've left the city far behind.

16 Local Love

I'd like a gin and tonic with a twist of postcardworthy views, please.

BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS

18 The New Black

Keeping it cool this summer in simply plain white.

ESSENTIALS

BY CLAUDIA KOKSCH AND

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

MEHTAP SERT

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

Events, places, and walks to enjoy the Berlin summer

NIGHTLIFE

Kreuzberg's popular Bergmannkiez: a hotbed of shopping and dining.

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The Where Pass provides visitors with exceptional discounts to the city’s must-see attractions with integrated transport ticket and an informative city guidebook. Visiting Berlin has never been more convenient. See wherepassberlin.com for more details

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INTRODUCING WHERE PASS BERLIN

E.T. E. T.A A.Hoffman

Take full advantage of the balmy weather and spend as much time as possible outdoors.

Contemporary dance all over Berlin – the Tanz im August festival is not to be missed.

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12 Out In The Open

61 Ask The Concierge

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Where Now

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Also Inside

ENTERTAINMENT

Des sauer r Str. r

Florence Kasumba The Berlin-based actress is full of local theater and cinema recommendations.

A UGUS T 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

DINING

H.-v.GagernStr.

BODE MUSEUM: © SERGEJ HOROVITZ; ARENA BERLIN: COURTESY OF ARENA BERLIN; FLORENCE KASUMBA: PHOTO BY STEPHAN KLUETHER; BRACELET BY CADENZZA; PFAUENINSEL: © ISTOCK.

SHOPPING

5 Editor’s Note

B Mu

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

Urban Woodlands When I think of the Berlin summer, I think of blue skies with fast-moving clouds, trees painted in the largest variety of green shades, of warm days and fresh breezes. But what I like most about summer in Berlin is the fact that no matter how deep into the urban texture you immerse yourself, there's always a green escape nearby, be it a playground, a park, or a whole forest. This combination of urban and natural is what makes Berlin special to nature lovers, and an example of this is the Naturpark Südgelände Schöneberg (S Priesterweg). This former railway yard was last used in the 1940s and lay abandoned throughout the Cold War due to the reduced train service in West Berlin. Five decades of complete neglect allowed nature to regain possession of the area, and the result today is a wild urban woodland. With train tracks interspersed with trees and shrubs, old locomotive halls surrounded by high grass, and ancient, abandoned trains, this is one of the most unusual parks you will ever see, and it is particularly popular with photographers who go there to capture the evocative combination of Berlin history and nature's ability to quickly reconquer its spaces.

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AMERICAN EXPRESS

Welcome to the capital! Explore the many exclusive offers for American Express cardholders and enjoy your stay in Germany’s most exciting city. Genießen Sie Ihren Aufenthalt in Deutschlands aufregendster Stadt! Entdecken Sie viele exklusive Angebote für American Express Karteninhaber.

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HOT

DATES August in Berlin is packed with exciting events, from beer festivals and art exhibitions to museums open until early morning.

ERWIN WURM UNTIL MONDAY

Last chance! Make sure to check out the Erwin Wurm exhibition Bei Mutti (“At Mom’s”) at the Berlinische Galerie before it ends on 22 August. The Austrian artist is renowned for the playful, irreverent spirit behind his sculptures and installations, in particular the One Minute Sculptures, a series that invites viewers to become part of the artwork themselves. www.berlinischegalerie.de

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calendar | Where now

27 SATURday

Long Night of Museums

Ready, set, museum! The annual Long Night of Museums is a cultural marathon for night owls. One ticket grants access to more than 70 museums across the city, which stay open until 2am to help visitors cram in as much as possible. Also included is unlimited use of public transit as well as shuttle buses, so the hardest thing will be deciding which of the many exhibitions to see. www.lange-nacht-dermuseen.de

International Beer Festival

FROM FRIDAy

What could be better on a hot summer’s day than a cool, refreshing beer or three? At the International Beer Festival on the first weekend of the month, there will be a mindboggling 2400 beer specialties to choose from, from nearly 90 countries around the world. The boozy festival stretches along Friedrichshain’s monumental Karl-Marx-Allee for 2.2 km, making this the longest beer garden in the world. Prost! www.bierfestival-berlin.de

YOUNG EURO CLASSIC

from WEDNESday

They’re young, they’re talented, and they’re the future of classical music. Every summer, Berlin’s Young Euro Classic draws high-caliber youth orchestras from around Germany and as far as Bulgaria, Estonia, Kazakhstan, and the Middle East to play two weeks of beautiful music at the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. On 28 August, four prodigious winners of major piano competitions will perform Beethoven, Schubert, and Liszt. www.young-euro-classic.de www.wheretraveler.com 9

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FROM WEDNESDAY

POPKULTUR

The successor of Berlin Music Week, the annual Pop-Kultur festival shines the spotlight on the creativity and diversity of Berlin’s music scene with concerts, performances, talks, and more. Don’t miss the kickoff concert on 30 August, when Scottish post-rock band Mogwai (member Barry Burns is a Berlin expat) plays at Admiralspalast and indie-rockers Girls Names (above) on the 31st. www.pop-kultur.berlin

PROJECT SPACE FESTIVAL

FROM MONDAY

Galleries, studios, creative melting pots, and event venues all rolled into one, Berlin’s hundreds of project spaces are what keep the city’s creative scene so vibrant. This month’s Project Space Festival highlights one different project space every day until 31 Aug, with each space hosting an event, performance, or interactive art show. Stop by and discover what Berlin’s artists, musicians, and other creatives are up to. www.projectspacefestival-berlin.com

POTSDAM PALACE NIGHT SATURDAY

For one splendid August weekend each year, Potsdam’s regal Park Sanssouci is transformed into a splendid stage. From 5pm until late in the night, the park’s numerous royal palaces are colorfully illuminated and the expansive grounds and gardens fill with baroque performers playing music out in the open air. Besides concerts, there is also pantomime, dance, marionettes and stilt walkers, topped off with fireworks shortly after midnight. www.potsdamer-schloessernacht.de

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HOT DATES

AUGUST

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

See the one and only Sting sing live at the Waldbühne outdoor stage. Musical sensation Rihanna promises to put on a spectacular show at Olympiastadion. Punk legend and former Dead Kennedys frontman Jello Biafra is live at SO36 tonight. Last chance: the exhibit of stunning Mayan artifacts at Martin-Gropius-Bau ends Sunday. Kick off the weekend with cocktails at chic bar Bryk (bryk-bar.com) in Prenzlauer Berg. Discover some local musical talents at today's Down by the River festival. Join the fun and sing your heart out at Mauerpark flea market's open-air karaoke. Bask in ultimate relaxation in the flotation pool and saunas of Kreuzberg's Liquidrom. Take a swim at Schlachtensee, followed by beer and Wurst at the popular Fischerhütte. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Hit the dance floor at Clärchens Ballhaus, Mitte's charming centenarian dance hall. Hear some rocking concerts at this weekend's Pure & Crafted Festival at Postbahnhof. Star conductor Daniel Barenboim leads the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra at Waldbühne. Want some ink inspiration? It's the last day of the International Tattoo Convention at Arena. Discover dissident art of the GDR at MartinGropius-Bau's Gegen Stimmen exhibit. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English. All Night Long, a soul show at Wintergarten Varieté, will get your toes tapping. Tan by the pool at Haubentaucher, a Friedrichshain pool in a former train yard. Toast to the weekend at Hopfenreich, featuring Berlin's biggest craft beer range. Catch the chill, laid-back vibes at the surfinspired Strænd music festival at Arena. Check out the last day of the tasty Vegan Summer Festival at Alexanderplatz. Sip a cool beer under the chestnut trees at Prater, the city's oldest Biergarten. Delve into a world of secret intrigue at the thrilling Spy Museum by Potsdamer Platz. Berlin Atonal, a legendary festival of sonic and visual art, opens tonight at Kraftwerk. Sample the famous Apfelstrudel at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus. The Berlin Circus Festival – starring acrobats, not animals – begins at Tempelhofer Park. Visit Chamäleon Varieté to see Czech "new circus" masters at work in ROOTS. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Cool off with a dip at Badeschiff, the swimming pool floating in the Spree river. Picasso fans: don't miss the collection of masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen. The Pop-Kultur festival gets underway with a night full of concerts around the city.

NARROW HOUSE, BERLINISCHE GALERIE 2016, © ERWIN WURM, VG BILD-KUNST BONN, 2016 PHOTO AMIN AKHTAR; BODE MUSEUM, © SERGEJ HOROVITZ; YOUNG EURO CLASSIC, PHOTO BY KAI BIENERT; INTERNATIONAL BEER FESTIVAL: COURTESY OF INTERNATIONALE BIERFESTIVAL; POP-KULTUR, GIRLS NAMES, PHOTO BY SARAH DOYLE; PROJECT SPACE: KINDERHOOK CARACAS, ETIENNE STER; POTSDAMER SCHLÖSSERNACHT, PHOTO BY KLAUS BAEDICKER.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

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Photo: Iris Janke | Costume: Claudia Hill | Model: Jemima Rose Dean

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It’s the most glorious month of the summer, so take full advantage of the balmy weather and spend as much time outside as possible. Hilda Hoy rounded up the month’s best options for outdoor food, fun, and events. Al Fresco Eating When it comes to dining in the open air, this city has no shortage of options: Outdoor seating being prime dining real estate during the summer, every restaurant that can will set up tables out on the sidewalk or in their courtyard. A few al fresco dining spots stand out, however. Buchholzberlin (Joachimstr. 20, www.buchholzberlin.com) is a hidden gem in Mitte – part café, part design studio specializing in handmade wooden furniture.

Tucked away in the backyard is a lush garden with tables and benches scattered amongst the greenery, which includes beds teeming with veggies and herbs used in the menu’s flatbreads, salads, and soups. Further south in the city, Kreuzberg’s Landwehr Canal is al fresco dining paradise. A stroll along the Paul-Lincke Ufer embankment will take you past one lovely restaurant terrace after another looking out towards the serene canal. Take your pick from ramen noodles at Cocolo (No. 39–40), creative

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Klunkerkranich: © julian nelken; arena berlin: courtesy of arena berlin; club der visionäre: ©

OUT IN THE

OUTDOOR BERLIN | Where now

(www.straendfestival.de). The festival is the culmination of Surf Week Berlin, which brings five back-to-back nights of surf movie screenings to outdoor theaters in Mitte and beyond (www.surfweekberlin.de). If you’ve missed out on the surf films, don’t fret – Freiluftkino Kreuzberg (Mariannenplatz 2, www.freiluftkinokreuzberg.de), tucked away in the back courtyard of a historic artists’ center, plays an outdoor movie every night of the week throughout the summer. Though foreign films are usually screened with German subtitles, much of the program is Englishspeaker-friendly. Lean back in a lounge chair with a cold beer and settle in for some stellar cinematic entertainment. Summertime is also the peak season for one of Berlin’s most beloved weekend pastimes: hanging out at the flea market. The twicemonthly Nowkölln Flowmarkt is one of the most fun markets of all, taking over a section of the Maybachufer embankment with all sorts of shopping, food, and musical entertainment (www.nowkoelln. de). Stop by on 14 or 28 August to browse the crafts, collectibles, and clothing sold by neighborhood locals and to try out some food truck specialties.

Klunkerkranich: © julian nelken; arena berlin: courtesy of arena berlin; club der visionäre: © visit berlin, photo by philip koschel;restaurant: courtesy of chan; nowkoelln market: Courtesy of nowkoelln; spindler: © klaus lange.

Main image: Klunkerkranich at sunset. Opposite page, from top: the Arena Club and venue; Club der Visionäre; restaurant Chan. This page, from top; The Nowkölln Flowmarkt; the terrace at Spindler.

European fusion at Spindler (No. 43, www. Friedrichshain. It shares not only a location spindler-berlin.net), pan-Asian street food with the massive techno temple, but also the at Chan (No. 42, www.chan-berlin.com), and same super-cool, post-industrial aesthetic, luxurious Michelin-starred cuisine at Horváth having been built out of a former heating (No. 44A, www.restaurant-horvath.de). plant. These days, however, the only heat For dinner with some beachy vibes, head generated here is from the sizzling burger to the riverside Sage restaurant, which has grill. Sip on a tall beer and cool down next to transformed a former industrial warehouse the custom-made fountain. into a cool spot for modern European cuisine Another standout spot for open-air nightlife (Köpenicker Str. 18–20, www.sage-restaurant. is Klunkerkranich (Karl-Marx-Str. 66 – 5th de). After a meal on the shaded back terrace, floor, www.klunkerkranich.de), a kooky, move to the beach bar to indulge in a makeshift little DIY village built out of cocktail or two while wiggling your recycled materials on the roof of a Summer toes in the sand. mall parking lot. The panoramic views simply can’t be beat, Highlight: Late Nights Under and amongst garden beds The outdoor concerts the Stars filled with flowers and herbs at the Waldbühne forest Dining outside is just for amphitheater. Flip to the is plenty of lounge seating to starters. Drink and dance sprawl on while you chill out Entertainment section the night away at Club der and enjoy a sundown cocktail. (p. 56) for concert Visionäre (Am Flutgraben 1, On most nights of the week, the details. www.clubdervisionaere.com), a program includes concerts and small and often-packed bar and club parties to keep the fun going until late right on the water where the Landwehr in the night. Canal branches off the Spree River. While DJs lay down techno and house tracks inside the Fresh-Air Entertainment little boathouse, revelers canoodle out on Throughout the month, outdoor events the docks and dip their feet into the water. are popping up across the city. Music There are beer gardens aplenty in this town, fans shouldn’t miss the Strænd Festival at but Bierhof Rüdersdorf (Rüdersdorfer Str. 70, the riverside Arena venue on 20 August, www.bierhof.berlin) isn’t your average locale featuring two stages of concerts delivering – it’s part of the legendary Berghain club in a chilled-out, surf-inspired vibe all day long w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 13

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Solveig Steinhardt takes a walk in Berlin’s idyllic south.

erlin isn’t just a conglomeration of urban spaces, post-industrial structures, luxurious turn-of-the-19thcentury buildings, and communist architecture. The city’s southwestern neighborhoods are covered in forest and dotted by lakes and ponds, and are a popular vacation spot for many Berliners. The best way to dive into Berlin’s greenest slice is to rent a bike and take it on Above: Eye-catching architecture adorns the Englishstyle gardens at Pfaueninsel. This photo: The Fischerhütte Biergarten at Schlachtensee

the U3 U-Bahn line, getting off anywhere between Dahlem Dorf and Krumme Lanke to explore roads lined with marvelous villas built in a variety of styles, but also parks, woods, and lakes where Berliners come to swim whenever it’s sunny.

VILLA VARIETY Originally built for the upper class of the early 1900s, the districts of Zehlendorf and

Dahlem are an explosion of architectural styles, featuring Bavarian half-timbered mansions, boxy and functional Bauhaus buildings, austere Prussian villas, or floral Art Nouveau houses. The townhouses around Im Gehege in Dahlem are built in a combination of urban and country styles, while the houses and apartment buildings of the Onkel-Toms-Hütte Waldsiedlung on and around Riemeisterstraße near Krumme Lanke were designed by Bruno Taut in the 1920s for the working class, aiming to prove that functional architecture can be adapted to an idyllic forest setting. To view the interior of a Berlin lakeside villa, head to the Haus am Waldsee (www.hausamwaldsee. de) on Argentinische Allee, which houses a contemporary art collection both inside the building and in its lovely waterside garden. Another mansion-cum-museum is the Liebermann Villa (www.liebermann-villa. de), once the summer house of painter Max Liebermann and now a gallery displaying the artist’s collection with a gorgeous view of lake Wannsee just out of the window. hard to believe that this very view is what a Nazi delegation looked out on when they planned the annihilation of the Jews in 1933: the nearby Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz (www.ghwk.de), where the conference took place, is now a memorial museum.

PFAUENINSEL: ©ISTOCK; FISCHERHÜTTE: COURTESY OF FISCHERHÜTTE.

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DÜPPEL: COURTESY OF MUSEUMSDORF DÜPPEL; ALLIED MUSEUM: COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM; KRUMME LANKE: ©

WAY DOWN SOUTH

INTO THE GREEN | WHERE NOW

DÜPPEL: COURTESY OF MUSEUMSDORF DÜPPEL; ALLIED MUSEUM: COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM; KRUMME LANKE: © ISTOCK PHOTO.

PFAUENINSEL: ©ISTOCK; FISCHERHÜTTE: COURTESY OF FISCHERHÜTTE.

A WATERFUL WORLD When it comes to water, you really can’t beat Berlin, and the twin lakes of Krumme Lanke and Schlachtensee (U Krumme Lanke) offer the most bucolic swimming waters in town. The water is slightly more accessible at Krumme Lanke than at Schlachtensee, and its terraced shore makes it particularly suitable for families. To get to the kids’ beach, take a right past the nudist meadow you encounter coming from the U-Bahn station, then walk for five minutes to the northernmost edge of the lake. Schlachtensee is wilder and has no wide beaches, so you’ll have to find your own spot by the water between the trees, but once you do, you will be rewarded with a lot of privacy and unspoiled views. If you are looking for something more organized, head to Freibad Wannsee instead (S Nikolassee). With its 900m of sandy shoreline and its 1920s resort feel, it is Berlin’s beach par excellence. Entry costs €5.50, and once inside you can rent a northern-style Strandkorb beach chair or an umbrella. But if you prefer being by the water rather than in the water, take the ferry from Nikolskoer Weg (S Wannsee). After just one minute you will be at Pfaueninsel, a peaceful Prussian retreat in the middle of the Havel river, complete with regal-looking buildings and a colony of peacocks walking around.

FARM LIFE For more outdoor fun the whole family will enjoy, the Museumsdorf Düppel (Clauertstr. 11, www.dueppel.de) shows visitors what life used to be like in the 1200s. This medieval town was reconstructed in the 1960s on the site of an ancient Dorf (the only original structure is the old well) and features rustic homes, workshops, and a small farm with animals. Inside the huts you can try out ancient crafts such as woodcarving, pottery, and blacksmithing, or play medieval games. Another highlight is Domäne Dahlem (www. domaene-dahlem.de), an old farm that is still functioning today, with cows, pigs, goats, horses, tractors, museum, and an organic food shop should you get hungry.

CULTURE VULTURES A trip to Berlin’s greenest suburb doesn’t mean missing out on culture: There’s lots to do to keep your brain cells active. The Jagdschloss Grunewald on Hüttenweg (www.spsg.de), a hunting castle built by the Prussian kings, is well worth a visit if only for its marvelous collection of Cranach paintings. Nearby, the Brücke Museum (www. bruecke-museum.de) exhibits the Die Brücke movement of German Expressionism, while

Top left: a medieval house at the Museumsdorf Düppel: Top right: a US Army tunnel at the Allied Museum. This photo: Krumme Lanke.

the Allied Museum (www.alliiertenmuseum. de) on Clayallee explores Berlin’s Allied presence in the neighborhood and in the city, and the army’s interactions with the local population.

FOOD & DRINK Luise Dahlem (www.luise-dahlem.de) – Stop by this large Biergarten in the center of Dahlem for Neapolitan pizzas, soups, and meat dishes. Königliche Garten Akademie (www.koenigliche-gartenakademie.de) – This series of interconnected greenhouses with a gardening shop also house a highend restaurant with a great breakfast menu. Fischerhütte (www.fischerhuette-berlin. de) – Locals love this German restaurant and Biergarten on the shores of the Schlachtensee lake.

“

SCHLACHTENSEE AND KRUMME LANKE OFFER UNSPOILED NATURE AND BUCOLIC VIEWS

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LOCAL LOVE

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WHERE NOW | THE BERGMANNKIEZ

Jenna Rose Robbins explored the Bergmannkiez and came back with a bag full of recommendations.

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The area of Kreuzberg surrounding Bergmannstraße is a hotbed of local color, with more dining and shopping options than can fit in a single visit. Summer finds customers spilling out of the neighborhood’s many cafes and onto the sidewalks to bask in the warm weather while enjoying a flat white or tall Hefeweizen, while several major festivals — including the eponymous Bergmannstrassenfest — dot the calendar. Anchoring it all is Marheineke Markthalle, one of the city’s few remaining market halls and a food-lover’s paradise.

BARS 1. Limonadier (limonadier-barkultur.de) – Handcrafted liqueurs in unusual flavors make for inventive cocktails, such as the Lavendel Gimlet with its soft lavender taste. 2. Haifischbar (haifischbar.net) – Rumor has it Quentin Tarantino spent many an evening in this quiet, low-key bar while he was in town to shoot Inglorious Basterds.

3. Dolden Mädel (doldenmaedel.de) – Gastropub meets beer garden with a range of brews and traditional German fare, as well as one of the best veggie burgers in town. 4. Zyankali Bar (zyankali.de) – Step into the macabre hospital-themed bar for a scientifically concocted cocktail, alcoholinfused ice cream, or a dose of absinthe. 5. BarbieBar (barbiebar.de) – The homage to the world’s most famous doll attracts clientele of all stripes, including some of the city’s most outrageous drag queens.

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From top to bottom: Elegant façades in Chamissoplatz; A cocktail at Limonadier; The tea selection at Ölmühle an der Havel.

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6. Marheineke Markthalle – The emporium of flavors offers fresh produce, a wide array of ethnic cuisine, and an outpost of Veganz, Europe’s first vegan supermarket chain. 7. Aurora – Home-style cooking that’s 100-percent vegetarian, and even some that’s vegan. Try the buffet for an all-around sampling. 8. Umami (umami-restaurant.de) – The Indochinese fare attracts fans from around town with its warm atmosphere, bao-bun burgers, and refreshing cocktails. 9. Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap – The tiny fastfood shack often sports a half-hour-long line due to its reputation for the best grilled-vegetable döners in town. 10. Little Tibet (little-tibet. de) – Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on Tibet and the subcontinent comes in large portions. Don’t miss the momos (dumplings). 11. Knofi (knofi.de) – A Kiez favorite with locations on both sides of the street offers a café atmosphere for breakfast and lunch as well as Mediterranean produce and pre-made fare to bring home. 12. Good Morning Vietnam (goodmorningvietnam.de) – Hidden away in one of the neighborhood’s many Höfe (courtyards) lies a trove of authentic Vietnamese food. 13. Amici Amici (amici-amici. de) – The neighborhood choice for Italian cuisine, including

Roman-style pizzas and many pasta options. 14. Atlantic (cafeatlantic.de) – The multi-page menu features breakfasts from around the world and creative combinations, such as a walnut-honey omelet. 15. Barcomi’s (barcomis.de) – Baked goods are the star at this Berlin-based chain, whose popularity has spawned not only cookbooks but a line of cooking ware.

ENTERTAINMENT & SIGHTS 16. Chamissoplatz – Surrounded by the picturesque facades of Wilhelmenian buildings, the quaint park offers a playground and, in the warmer months, a weekly community market. 17. English Theater Berlin – The city’s only performance space to offer English-language shows exclusively. Check www.etberlin.de for upcoming festivals and tours from popular American and British comedians. 18. Passionskirche – The red-bricked church from the early 1900s offers performances ranging from world music to jazz.

SHOPPING 19. Ölmühle an der Havel (oelgenuss.de) – Blends of tea and a curious assortment of culinary oils make the mom-andpop shop a gourmand’s dream. 20. Shoeting (shoeting.de) – Women’s clothes and shoes that are both hip and classic at once, including brands such as Vagabond and Filippa K. 21. Herrlich (herrlich-berlin. de) – Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks 1 any day. 22. Ararat (ararat-berlin.de) – Fine stationery, postcards, and a trove of knickknacks and novelty items make this a must-stop to stock up on souvenirs and gifts. 23. Antiquariat – Used and antique books fill the corner shop from floor to ceiling, while the sidewalk often overflows with discounted tomes. 19 w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 17

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WHERE NOW | SUMMER SHOPPING

THE NEW BLACK 5

Claudia Koksch shares her picks for a summer in white.

1. Twin-Set Simona Barbieri, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 2. Sun protection by Babor, Franzรถsische Str. 48. 3. Attilio Giusti Leombruni, Galeries Lafayette, Friedrichstr. 76-78. 4. Calzedonia, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 5. Airfield, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 6. Cadenzza Berlin Store, Friedrichstr. 172.

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UP TO 70% OFF

MORE THAN 500 TOP BRANDS U

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Toy Story Annabelle Mallia believes there’s no such thing as spoiling your child. There are plenty of things children need that money can't buy. But there are many other things for which a bag full of cash comes in handy. So when the occasion calls for it (read: a birthday, Christmas, or simply good behavior) a visit to the cutest stores in town will surely light up our little ones' faces. Kleine Fabriek (Gotenstr. 64, www.kleinefabriek. com) in Schöneberg was born out of owners Astrid and Sebastian’s dissatisfaction with the local offering for kids, and was inspired by their love for Dutch design. In Holland, they found, baby items ooze with style and individuality, so why not bring them to Berlin? The shop carries a sleek selection of strollers, furniture, balance bikes, clothing, and toys by brands such as Joolz, Leander, Wishbone, and Koeka. For the city's most adorable fashion, head to TINY (Schröderstr. 14, www.tinystore.de), created by a former fashion journalist. Wide-open spaces lined with pinewood

shelves display the cutest selection of clothes you’ve ever seen. With its tiny socks, itsy bitsy swimsuits, and miniature sneakers, this store will have you going gaga. Sometimes the toys are so cute, they are almost more for the parents than for the kids. The architect mom who opened Hase Weiss (Windscheidstr. 25, www.haseweiss.de) started off with kids' furniture and doll houses to later expand to leather backpacks and all sorts of little playthings, like hand-carved farm animals, pony sticks, and snow globes, sure to give parents that warm, nostalgic feeling. Alongside a plethora of soft baby toys and dolls, the founders of siebenschön (Gärtnerstr.

26, www.siebenschoen.de) also sell a great selection of wooden toys. They have rattles and mobiles by iconic German brand Haba for the little ones and marble tracks and experiment boxes for the older brother or sister. But no matter how old your kids are, the plush toys at Steiff (Kurfürstendamm 38/39, www.steiff.com) will be cherished souvenirs for years to come. The famous company, which lays claim to creating the original teddy bear (named after US President Theodore Roosevelt), has been producing its lovable items by hand since 1880. Its stuffed animals are readily recognizable by their so-called Knopf im Ohr, a golden button in one of their ears, which is the brand's stamp of authenticity.

Main image and inset: courtesy of kleine fabriek; dinosaur: Steiff; bottom right: courtesy of tiny.

Clockwise from left: the interior of Kleine Fabriek in Schöneberg; a variety of dinosaurs from Steiff; the owner of TINY. Inset: Astrid and Sebastian from Kleine Fabriek.

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THE

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

www.alexacentre.com |

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Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

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Designer brands at 30-70% less.* more to love, All year round.

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

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SAVE AN EXTRA 10%** designeroutletberlin.com Than RRP. ** Take this page to our information desk to claim. *

This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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MICHAEL KORS

ROLEX BOUTIQUE

UNIQLO

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de

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Celebrate one of the world’s most photographed stars at the National Portrait Gallery

Free inside

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FRANK SINATRA THE MUSICAL SKY-HIGH DRINKS

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Festivals that will rock the city

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W IN T ER / SP R ING 2 0 16 CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik EPL Diamond Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M

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Clarks Ecco

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Coco California

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Berlin

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE

PASS VISIT WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Out Of The Bag!

The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

The German bag brand BREE believes in combining tradition with innovation to create functional and reliable bags that are also very attractive. Take their award-winning Simply bag, for example – based on the simple paper bag, it is only 0.5-millimeters thick so it can be folded away until needed. Or their Grönland series, inspired by packaging design with the handle shape and sculptural body of a plastic shopping bag. And their Stockholm bag, drawing from hunting fashion and made from natural leather only. Travel luggage, purses, bag tags, and key rings round off the offering.

Mall of Berlin

Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030 92218263. www.bree.com

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe)

270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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shop stop

VOLKER LANG STORE

PROMOBO

COTÉLAC

Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories. The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since. Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

That breezy, enviably stylish French look can be yours thanks to Cotélac, a French brand that creates comfortable yet flattering clothing and accessories for both women and men. Unique prints, fine fabrics and subtle details are brand hallmarks.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de shop stop

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

TORSTRASSE

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

ENT

ROS

GORM

ANNS

LINIENSTRASSE

TR.

Rosenthaler Platz TORS

TRAS

No 74

SE Kaviar Gauche

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

shop stop

RASSE

ADTST

ALMST

AUS

ÖNH

SCH

ALT

ASSE

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand has a store in Berlin. Check out the classic 59FIFTY baseball cap and a number of other designs, for both men and women. Don't miss the summer apparel collection in the Berlin flagship store.

ER STR

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE

BURG

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TRA

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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin E MULA VOLK TRASS S T S C U ER LA KS Cotélac AUG Greta NG S TRASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT Be ieb Oh SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es r HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS rman d 11 SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ Promobo Michael Kors NZ A MCM did STRAS Strellson Gretchen Store SE as Dr IK We yk KS ekd Bu Home on earth ay designer depot UN ffalo orn IQ Hackesche Höfe LO Boots & Shoes Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store

shop stop

HOME ON EARTH

CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR

REBECCA STORE

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp, this store just opened its first branch in Berlin.

It's heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes stocks the brand's line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy and a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices. And with their Magic Candy Factory, a 3D food printer, customers can easily create their own vegan fruit gum.

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.katjes.de

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de

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SHOPPING

shop stop areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

TRÜFFELSCHWEIN The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed. He simply looks better than everybody else. Trüffelschwein carries a seletion of handpicked niche brands from Europe and beyond, featuring a dynamic mix of craftsmanship and modern aesthetics. Brands include YMC, Hansen and Universal Works.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030 70221225 www.trueffelschweinberlin.com shop stop

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Barbour Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Basler

DESIGNER DEPOT Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high-class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. The selection ranges from unique pieces for everyday to dressy items for special occasions. From Armani to Versace, brand hunters will be in heaven. Tax Free shopping available.

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net shop stop

Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

By Anne

GRETCHEN Berlin-based Gretchen stands for luxurious leather handbags, accessories and gloves with award-winning designs. Eclectic combinations and elaborate styles are our brand's distinctive elements. Get a special gift when buying a bag in our store with this coupon.

Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4, Rosenthalerstr. 40. T: 030 20215165 www.mygretchen.com

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags by By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views.

www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer | depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories just to name a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gretchen Store Berlin Eclectic combinations of shiny glazed and waxed leathers and elaborate design elements are distinct to the Berlin-based Gretchen look. On offer are exclusive leather bags and accessories, including the signature, award-winning Tango Pouch. www.mygretchen.com. Rosenthalerstr. 4041, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4. T: 030.20215165. S Hackesher Markt, U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4 www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SHOPPING Wolfen

Specs Appeal Few accessories make a statement as much as eyewear does, so it pays to invest in a pair of high-quality glasses that complement your face and showcase your individual style. The wood-framed specs from German brand Kerbholz have been described as everything from “funky” to “romantic” due to their classic styling, while the nature of wood grain makes each pair one-of-a-kind. After launching with sunglasses, the company now offers prescription frames and even wood-strapped watches, all handcrafted and sourced from sustainable forests. Although the brand’s Berlin pop-up shop was only for spring, you can play around on the website to find the perfect combination of frame shape and wood color. Find them at KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24. www.kerbholz.com

A Berlin-based brand specializing in knitwear items for both women and men. All products are made with natural fibers and finished by hand. www.wolfengermany.com. Auguststr. 41. T: 030.49781966. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße.T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Shoes & Accessories AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes

A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, worn by celebrities. Their comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann. com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed, he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Twin-Set

Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection adding bags, lingerie, beachwear The sixth floor of KaDeWe and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known features an extensive food internationally for its style, which is court and market, including both elegant and feminine. select American Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U products. Mohrenstraße. E3

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www. uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two

courtesy of Kerbholz

Onepiece

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

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#moveinmavi

mavi-store.de facebook/mavi twitter/mavieu instagram/mavieu

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SHOPPING floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Oakley This store showcases Oakley’s entire assortment, from clothing to accessories, but the focus is on the eyewear, which uses latest technology to cater to the needs of professional sportspeople and amateurs alike. www.oakley.com. Hackesher Markt, Rosenthaler Str. 34. T: 030.23457770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Jewelry & Watches Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex

has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

Home Décor

swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3.

Promobo Many of the fun, offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Rosenthal One of Germany's most famous white porcelain manufacturers, Rosenthal is synonymous with impeccable quality and high value in tableware and art. Kurfürstendamm. T: 030.88681574. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed

Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Mühle Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles. www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. S Hackescher Markt.E3

Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE

shoes UK

clothes Euro

women

Jumpsuit: Liu Jo Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. Shoes: IKKS Women Neue Schönhauser Str. 16.

3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

Xs s m l

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Ready, Set, Go!

all photos: © istock.

Berlin is best enjoyed from the top of a tree, says Solveig Steinhardt. There are plenty of ways to enjoy the city outdoors: you can explore a neighborhood, taking in the sun while sipping beer at a beer-garden, or attend a concert en plein air at the Waldbühne amphitheater or at the Spandau Citadel. But if you really want to get hands-on with a new city, there's no better way than booking yourself in for an outdoor adventure that combines sightseeing with physical activity. Judging by the number of climbing facilities for people of all ages scattered around the city, it is safe to say that Berliners love climbing. One of the most scenic climbing spots is the Waldochzeilgarten Jungfernheide (www. waldhochzeilgarten-jungfernheide.de), offering tree-climbing and canopy tours for kids and adults, complete with a mini crash course. But no climbing location screams Berlin more than Der Kegel inside the RAW Gelände, an ultra-urban, industrial estate that also houses clubs and one of Europe's best

indoor skating ramps. The Kegel's indoor and outdoor climbing walls, which go all the way up to the top of an old industrial tower, are meant for the professional climbers out there, though beginners' courses are also on offer. One of the best ways to navigate the city is… by boat, of course! Kayak Berlin Tours (www.kajakberlintours.de) offers very pleasant and informative paddling tours on comfortable kayaks. You can choose between a Landwehr Canal tour of Kreuzberg and

Neukölln, a visit to West Berlin's waterways, or a paddle around Potsdam. The pace of the paddling is quite relaxed, so you don't have to be an Olympic athlete to take part. For a game of volleyball between museum visits, head to the very central Gleisdreieckpark near the Deutsches Technikmuseum, where Beach61 (www.beach61.de) has been setting up its beach volleyball pitches every summer for almost a decade. And once you are done playing, join the lively crowds at the beach bar, which has a lovely menu of refreshing cocktails and other drinks as well as ice creams and snacks. But no tour of sporty Berlin would be complete without a visit to Tempelhofer Park, a former airport turned heaven for lovers of outdoor sports. Bring your own rented bike or roller blades for an exceptional ride on the former runways, or book yourself in for a kitesurfing lesson (www.surfing-tempelhof.de) or a unicycle class (www.dingadu.de) you will never forget. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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For more information on the

pass visit wherepassBERLIN.com

Major Sights

ADVERTORIAL

The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Berlin Dungeon Getting up close and personal with Berlin’s history has never been so terrifying – or thrilling. New this year in the Berlin Dungeon is Exitus, the city’s only indoor free-fall tower. Experience 800 years of Berlin stories, from the Middle Ages until the 20th century, as told by 11 different characters, including the spirits that haunt the dark depths of the city. Until 12 September, experience the “Angeklagt” show and try to prove your innocence before a ruthless judge. Spandauer Str. 2. www.thedungeons.com/berlin/en

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus

Hackesche Höfe

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz

The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

Potsdamer Platz

The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler

City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's

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Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www. topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon

The Coolest Party In Town Get up close and personal with your favorite celebrity at Madame Tussauds Berlin, where life-sized wax figures of famous athletes, politicians, musicians, actors, and superheroes are waiting for you to take your selfie with them. Their latest addition is DJ and music producer Calvin Harris in his pose with both hands on the turntable. With the help of the newest augmented reality technology, combining virtual and real objects in 3D, you can immerse yourself in his world and celebrate at the coolest party in town. Unter den Linden 74. T: 0180 6545800. www.madametussauds.com aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

East Side Gallery

Stasi Prison

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a

MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily

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SIGHTSEEING 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de.

Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

RIVER TRIPS Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusiv-yachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www. berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

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WHERE PASS BERLIN AVAILABLE AT ALL S-BAHN BERLIN STATIONS EXPLORING BERLIN?

Get your Unique Pass for Visitors

RT O P ANS R T LIC B U P

Illustration Â© Shutterstock/Lisa Kolbasa

DE I U G CITY AP M Y CIT NTS U O C DIS

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU; JAMES JOYCE © BERENICE ABBOTT, COMMERCE GRAPHICS, COURTESY HOWARD GREENBERG GALLERY, NY; THOMAS STRUTH, VACUUM CHAMBER (PASADENA, 2003) AND RIDE, ANAHEIM, CHROMOGENIC PRINTS, © THOMAS STRUTH.; MAYAN DEATH MASK: © INAH, MUSEO ARQUEOLOGICO DE CAMPECHE, FUERTE DE SAN MIGUEL, SAN FRANCISCO DE CAMPECHE, CAMPECHE..

THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Top and bottom left: two shots by Thomas Struth. Right Berenice Abbott's portrait of James Joyce.

Time Passes, But Art Endures Serene Tseng travels back in time to understand the moments that inspired the four exhibitions at the MartinGropius-Bau this month. In the late 19th century, architects Martin Gropius and Heino Schmieden envisioned the Renaissance-style building known today as the Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 44) to be home to future generations of artistic creativity.. Although the building was heavily damaged in the last weeks of WWII, it underwent restoration in the late 20th century and has since become known as one of the most important exhibition halls in Germany. This month, the Martin-Gropius-Bau will take us on a journey around the world with four major exhibitions. On until 7 August only, the exhibition The Maya – Language of Beauty displays 300 Mayan artefacts, many of which are considered Mexican national treasures, exploring the pre-Columbian civilization's ideal of beauty as well as its depictions of religion, life, and nature. Death masks, pottery, and statues describe the Maya's relationship with their gods, their everyday existence, literature, astronomy,

A Mayan death mask

music, and dances. If sculpture gives a tangible, threedimensional representation of reality, nobody can deny the expressive power of photography, especially when the camera is in the hands of

someone like Berenice Abbott , who went down in history as one of the US’s most influential documentary photographers. Best known for her black-and-white images of New York architecture and urban views, all taken during a decade of rapid change from 1929-1939, Abbott also shot numerous portraits, including a famous depiction of James Joyce (pictured above). Elsewhere in the building, the work of another photographer, Thomas Struth, examines human ambition and its expression in space through shots of industrial production plants, research laboratories, operating rooms, and other inaccessible structures that define our present in his exhibition Nature & Politics. Whereas Voices of Dissent: Art in the GDR 1976-1989 reaches beyond surface-level East-West observations by examining the dissident art – including painting, poetry, performance, film, and music – that flourished in spaces that the GDR state was unable to reach. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Museums

€7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Altes Museum

Bode Museum

Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To Jun 2017: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 19 Sep: Textile Design Today explores the ever-evolving world of textile design. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri.

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 23 Oct: Emil Nolde. The Painter is a retrospective of the painter’s illuminating works. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.brueckemuseum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 15 Oct: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. To 31 Dec: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity DDR Museum until the Middle Ages. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm Learn about daily life in the former East (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. Germany at this hands-on museum. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Closets filled with GDR (DDR in Kupfergraben. German) fashion and a Trabant (the T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, GDR car) are just some of the items On Sat. 27 Aug, 70 S Hackescher Markt. E3 on display, while photographs

Bröhan-Museum

museums will stay open until 2am for the Long Night of Museums. .

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon– Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-LiebknechtStr. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 14 Aug: Relics of the Cold War. Photographs by Martin Roemers. To 16 Oct: Multicultural. Germany, a Country of Immigration follows the historical migration movements into Germany, from the quest workers of the 1960s up to the refugees of today. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum)

Danish photographer Adam Jeppesen spent nearly 500 days in solitude from the North Pole to the Antarctic, capturing the cold, vast, and harsh expanses and his own existential experience. Until 25 September, C/O Berlin (p. 46) presents Out of Camp, Jeppesen’s photographic record of this expedition. Split into four series – Folded, XCopy, Scatter, and Ghosts, – each showing unique traces of the voyage, the selection of works consists of prints either modified by reassembly or folding, or reduced down to their fundamental states as light or pixels. Through the damaged physicality of the prints, Jeppesen explores the unchanged purity of the reproduced landscapes.

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 14 Aug: Transcending Tradition traces

courtesy of c/o berlin.

Vestiges Of The (Ant)Arctic

One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 18 Sep: Millionaires can be trans* // You are so brave* explores parallel themes of success narratives of trans individuals and the cisgender-centric notion of equating being trans with bravery. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum. de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

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Deutsche Bank KunstHalle Unter den Linden 13/15 10117 Berlin

Polnisches Institut Berlin Burgstraße 27 10178 Berlin

Organized with the financial support from the city of Warsaw

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES the lives and contributions from Jewish mathematicians in German-speaking academia before 1933. Daily

10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin. de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum

permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until August, 31st 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Take a walk though

Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 25 Sep: We're off then! Travel pictures from from Albrecht Dürer to Olafur Eliasson. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum

Museum of Asian Art

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Sep: Wolfgang Leber – 50 Years of Paintings follows the ever-changing metropolis through the eyes of the artist. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 7 Aug: MAYA – The language of Beauty explores the fundamental pre-Hispanic artistic motif and expression - the body. To 21 Aug: NO, IT IS!: Artist William Kentridge shows his hybrid

Berlin

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the

©ISTOCK

Berlin’s history

Kupferstichkabinett

Exhibits at the Museum für Naturkunde (p. 45).

The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Road. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim. spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated

courtesy of the natural history museum.

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

performance pieces and visual artwork in a political narration. To 18 Sep: Thomas Struth: Nature & Politics is an exhibition following the contemporary photographer’s work from 2007-2015, exploring the interaction of human ambition and imagination with the complex structures around us. To 26 Sep: Voices of Dissent: Art in the GDR 1976-1989 reexamines the heroically dissident art from the GDR. To 3 Oct: Berenice Abbott – Photographs. Insight into the photographer and artist’s influence and lasting legacy. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

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courtesy of the natural history museum.

from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired black-and-white portraits. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

For Explorers!

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 30 Oct: Death in Naples – 125th Anniversary of the Death of Heinrich Schliemann pays homage to the archaeologist and excavator. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum. de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 9 Oct: Contrast Syria. Photographs by Mohamad al-Roumi is a photographic presentation of the artist’s multiethnic and multi-religious homeland. www.smb. museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising www.wheretraveler.com 45

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES political and social developments in 17th century Spain. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 18 Sep: Auguste Rodin and Madame Hanako. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof

For the first time ever, 50 sculptures and drawings from Auguste Rodin’s Hanako series, on loan from the Musée Rodin in Paris, will be showcased in Germany in the exhibition Auguste Rodin and Madame Hanako, on until 18 Sep at the Georg Kolbe Museum. Rodin, who is largely known as the founder of modern sculpture and for the expressiveness of his human forms, met Japanese dancer and performance artist Madame Hanako on her European tour in 1907, and elected her his muse for the four years to come – with prolific and breathtaking results. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www. spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Art galleries Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 5 Aug: Dada Africa celebrates the Dada centenary with works paired with artefacts originating from Africa, Asia, and Oceana. To 22 Aug: Erwin Wurm – Bei Mutti pushes the boundaries between sculpture, object, and performance, inviting visitors to integrate themselves into the artist’s work. To 31 Oct: Modern Visionaries features the utopian paintings and drawings of members of the Glass Chain artistic movement. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 25 Sep: Talents 38. Method. Sascha Kurmaz uses the power of perception and definition to push the power of photography. To 25 Sep: Poppy – Trails of Afghan Heroin, a photography and video installation detailing the effects of the drug and smuggle trade. To 25 Sep: Adam Jeppesen. Out of Camp recounts the artist’s lone journey from the North Pole to Antarctica. To 4 Sep: Allure is a

collection of photographs centering around the theme of allure and elegance. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org.Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 30 Oct: COMMON AFFAIRS – Revisiting the VIEWS Award – Contemporary Art from Poland. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutschebank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of

European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 30 Oct: El Siglo de Oro. The Age of Velázquez follows the artistic depictions of major

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 28 Aug: Ingo Mittelstaedt – Chinese Whispers. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www. hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/ Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 28 Aug: Cindy Sherman – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rodin Hanako: courtesy of georg kolbe museum.

An Exploration Of Fascination

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 21 Aug: The Black Years. Works created between 1933-1945 from the Neue Nationalgalerie, including pieces by Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz. To 23 Oct: Gülsün Karamustafa. Chronographia presents Karamustafa’s highly influential works, in which she addresses issues of migration, politically-enforced nomadism, feminism, gender, and Western regard of the Near East. To 6 Nov: Capital: Debt – Territory – Utopia uses art, film, and objects to explore what exactly is value and capital comprised of. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

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THE GUIDE | DINING

Above left and middle: Pasta and a dining banquette at Nudo; Left: Venetian specialties at La Pecora Nera; This photo: Pastificio Tosatti. Below, inset: bigoli pasta at La Pecora Nera.

Mangia! Mangia!

Courtesy of Nudo, La pecora nera, pastificio tosatti.

Some of the city’s best Italian restaurants are the ones making the effort to do things differently than all the rest, Hilda Hoy finds. Pretty much anywhere you go in Berlin, it seems like you can’t swing a spaghetti noodle without hitting an Italian restaurant. People here can’t get enough of Italy’s cuisine – in fact, surveys have found that spaghetti bolognese is the most beloved dish amongst Germans, closely followed in third place by pizza. (Schnitzel was the runner-up.) But despite the sheer volume of Italian restaurants in Berlin, the things they offer are pretty standard: the same old pizzas, the same old pastas, caprese salad, tiramisu – all the usual suspects. La Pecora Nera is one restaurant that’s doing things a little differently (Herrfurthplatz 6, www.pecoraberlin.de). Though it looks like a typical trattoria, they’re shining the spotlight on one of Italy’s more unknown regional cuisines: the food and wine of Veneto. The menu staples are rustic dishes like grilled polenta – smothered with melted cheese and served with grilled mushrooms or salsiccia sausage – and bigoli, fat, chewy homemade

noodles with a wonderful al dente bite. One serving option is an anchovy sauce, but I recommend the traditional duck ragù. On Fridays there are seafood specials, and every day from 6–8pm is Aperol spritz happy hour, a beloved tradition in northeastern Italy. The food at Nudo has a more modern twist, but what’s unique is the service concept (Lausitzer Platz 10, www. nudoberlin.de). Every night, there are only three set menus on offer: one classic, one changing, and one vegetarian. The four courses are served family-style at your table, creating a convivial, laid-back atmosphere – the aim is for diners to feel like they’re at a friend’s dinner party and not in a restaurant. That is, if your friends can cook delicious things like

tender octopus carpaccio, Sicilian caponata, and tagliata steak on a bed of arugula. You’ll leave the table at the end of the evening feeling stuffed and happy – as every Italian meal should end. Pastificio Tosatti dives deep into one of Italy’s greatest culinary legacies: pasta (Schliemannstr. 14a, www.tosatti.de). The Italian owner left behind a career as a web designer to pursue his pasta passion, and now makes every noodle and ravioli that he sells entirely by hand. With only a few tables in the shop, the daily lunch specials – featuring delicious homemade pasta sauces, naturalmente – are always in hot demand, but luckily everything can also be purchased to go for preparing at home. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de.

Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5 Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Antique Atmosphere When friends Lukas Schmid and Christoph Mack opened ORA last spring, a décor concept for their café-brasserie was one thing they didn’t have to consider. This corner retail space overlooking Kreuzberg’s green Oranienplatz had been home to a pharmacy since the 1860s, and with the original wall-to-wall wooden cabinets all still in place, it was clear that the gorgeous antique appearance of the space could speak for itself. Art Deco light fixtures dangle from the elegantly stuccoed ceiling, and old apothecary jars line the shelves to add an authentic historic touch. Instead of aspirin and antibiotics, what now passes over the countertop are wedges of homemade cakes, cinnamon buns, coffee specialties, and later in the evening, seasonal cocktail creations. The small but well-considered menu offers rustic, regionally influenced dishes, from granola or poached eggs on sourdough toast for breakfast to soups, salads, and tasty braised beef and veg for dinner. Oranienplatz 14. www.ora-berlin.de

Horváth

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com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Glass

M A K E H UM MUS, NOT WA LLS.

Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Hummus & Friends R E STAUR A N T & BA R Make your reservation: 0049.(0).30.55471454 info@hummus-and-friends.de Monday to Sunday: 10.30 am – 24:00 pm Oranienburger Straße 27, 10117 Berlin

www.hummus-and-friends.de

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a stylish interior alongside classic and updated French cuisine. Inside Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for a posh business lunch or romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters tempts as much as the sumptuous mains and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FOUR-COURSE LOBSTER MENU MONDAY TO SATURDAY UNTIL 28.08.2016 | FROM 06.00 PM | EUR 69.00 PER PERSON Lobster tartar and foam with falafel, saffron and parsley ayran Tom Kha Lobster with Shiitake, sesame and coriander Fried Maine lobster with olive risotto, chanterelles and Amalfi lemon sauce Marinated berries with elderberry blossom stock, apricot sorbet and vanilla butter crumble

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berlin charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-

stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN OPEN: MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM 11.30 AM TO 11 PM +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY

WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Mitte AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

From against one wall of Long March Canteen’s extra-dark, monochromatic interior, billows of steam come wafting dramatically out of the open-concept kitchen. From here, bamboo steamer baskets scrawled with Chinese characters are dispatched across the restaurant to hungry diners awaiting steamed handmade dumplings filled with everything from pork to scallops to caviar to sweet potatoes. The dumplings are just one part of a long and diverse menu of Chinese fusion delights from tame to adventurous, served in small tapas-style portions that are perfect for sharing amongst friends. Which is just as well, because you’re sure to have trouble deciding between the scores of dishes on offer. Make sure to try the grilled baby squid on skewers, honey-glazed spareribs, and the lotus leaf stuffed with sticky rice and shiitake mushrooms – and maybe even the chicken feet if you’re feeling daring. Wrangelstr. 20. T: 0178 8849599. www.longmarchcanteen.com

Schneeweiss

Sale e Tabacchi

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior

reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Kreuzberg Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities and journalists from the Tageszeitung newspaper upstairs. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon–

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www. grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Hummus & Friends Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www.hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a

Chinese With A Few Twists

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

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DINING refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Katjes Café Grün-Ohr Café. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshsqueezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.katjes.de. F2 T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Käfer DachgartenRestaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for

PRENZLAUER BERG

SCHÖNEBERG

I Due Forni

Café Aroma

Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is

raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek

Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www. lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. T: 030.66408710. German bread is among U Senefelderplatz. F2 the best in the world,

and there are some 600 varieties from which to choose.

more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of

a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Italian. A long-standing neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon– Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

TIERGARTEN Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can sit in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or by the fireplace in winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

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The Language Of Dance Solveig Steinhardt picked out the three experimental dance performances you definitely should not miss this month. Every summer, Berlin gets to taste the latest trends in contemporary dance at the Tanz im August festival, a month of rhythm and choreography, inspired contradictions, and poetic visitations of classics. From 12 August to 4 September, 18 dance companies featuring dancers from the world over will be staging more than 60 performances at various venues, including HAU Hebbel am Ufer, the Haus der Berliner Festspiele, and Radialsystem V, an old water-pumping station turned performance venue. For the opening night on 12 August, Emanuel Gat will be working together with electronic music producer Awir Leon to combine live concert and dance exploration in SUNNY, a show based on free-floating bodies and new sounds and which just premiered at the Biennale in Venice. Gat's aim is to stimulate different senses and

emotions to give the audience a sort of artistic synesthesia, and his shows have been described as "visual music, interpreted through the body." In an attempt to convey a metaphor for humanity through movement, the Compagnie Yoann Bourgeois from Lyon will be presenting Celui que tombe (26 and 27 August). Their performance is a game of mimicry and vertigo in which six performers move in circles on a precariously balanced platform that sometimes forces them to firmly hold on to one another in order not to fall, creating an alternation between a sense of collapse and a comforting feeling of belonging and togetherness. Proving that dance can also be used to reenact history, on 20 August the avantgarde ensemble Va Wölfl/NEUER TANZ, known for their extensive use of gun props in all their shows, will be recreating the

assassination of senator Robert Kennedy in von mit nach t: No 2. Expect bridal ballerinas holding Bibles and pistols, angels wildly beating each other up, a military-meetsballet style, and a combination of ethereal sounds, classical music, and rock'n'roll. It is a lively medley that criticizes our time and society. For something slightly more meditative, one of the most radical and influential post-modern choreographers, Deborah Hay, has joined forces with composer and filmmaker Laurie Anderson to create Figure a Sea, which has been described as "a delightful experience of music, sound and choreography". In this minimalist and subtle performance, the stage becomes a sea of endless possibilities where everything is ambiguous but accurate at the same time, visible and balanced. Figure a Sea, Hay says, is "a space for seeing oneself seeing."

#negrophobia: photo by Ian Douglas; celui que tombe: geraldine aresteanu; ; Sunny by Emanuel Gat, photo by Emanuel Gat. 32 rue Vandenbranden, photo by Herman Sorgeloos; THE SQUARE: photo by Kamerich Budwilowitz (EYES2).

ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

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S U I TA B L E F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L V I S I T O R S

BALLET & OPERA

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

Deutsche Oper

Berliner Dom

A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. Summer Break. www. deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. Summer Break. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

SUMMER SPECIAL:

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler

One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfmberlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. Barenboim is not just one of T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3 the world’s most acclaimed

Beethoven interpreters, he’s also the director of the Staatsoper.

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. Summer Break. www. staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. Summer Break. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. Summer Break. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 17–31 Aug: Young Euro Classics festival. www. konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

the soul variety show ”A roaring Dance through Soul-History.” Berliner Kurier

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed

”No doubt – the King of Pop would be amazed.” zitty Berlin

Soul, Funk, Rhythm & Blues: they all provide this show with its unmistakeable groove.

A Canon Of Greatest Hits STING: COURTESY OF PROMOTION.

#NEGROPHOBIA: PHOTO BY IAN DOUGLAS; CELUI QUE TOMBE: GERALDINE ARESTEANU; ; SUNNY BY EMANUEL GAT, PHOTO BY EMANUEL GAT. 32 RUE VANDENBRANDEN, PHOTO BY HERMAN SORGELOOS; THE SQUARE: PHOTO BY KAMERICH BUDWILOWITZ (EYES2).

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Hot off the North American leg of his Rock Paper Scissors tour, Grammy-winner Sting hits the Waldbühne, the open-air amphitheater that’s a favorite summertime destination for Berliners. The veteran musician, known for his genre-defying catalog of songs that dabble in styles ranging from worldbeat to jazz, performs greatest hits from both his solo years (Desert Rose, If I Ever Lose My Faith In You) and his time as frontman for The Police (Every Breath You Take, Don’t Stand So Close To Me), a band considered by many to have ushered in the “Second British Invasion” of the U.S. Known as much for his activism in human rights and environmentalism, the British rocker has been named by many publications as one of the greatest performers and songwriters of the 20th century. 1 Aug. Waldbühne. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de

For a short time only: 13 July – 28 August 2016 Tickets from € 32,00* #allnightlong

Potsdamer Straße 96 · 10785 Berlin Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 www.wintergarten-berlin.de * Prices plus advance booking fee and € 2,00 system fee/ticket

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ENTERTAINMENT

Pop’s Bad Girl Takes A Bow Rihanna’s influence in pop culture cannot be understated. She’s been declared a fashion icon, has launched numerous fragrances, and made the lists of Time’s most influential people in the world and Forbes’ influential celebrities – all while still in her twenties. But it’s music that the Barbadian performer is best known for. She’s sold more than 200 million albums worldwide and r anks as the second best-selling female singles artist – trailing just behind Madonna, her idol in both song and style. With the release of her eighth studio album, Bad Girl Ri-Ri, she once again reinvents herself by forgoing the dance rhythms of her previous hits in favor of the pop and R&B beats of Anti, which achieved platinum status two days after its release. 16 August. Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei! Now: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More Info and tickets at cinestar.de

Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin

Movie Theaters

Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden

CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Berlin is home to three Cinestar Sony Center opera houses: the Deutsche The latest Hollywood Oper, the Staatsoper am blockbusters, in English, every day. Schiller Theater, and the www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. Komische Oper. T: 030.26066400.

Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Triple Englishness

Radialsystem V

Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 26 Aug: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Boulez and Mahler. 27 Aug: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) performs Brahms and Dvorák at the Kulturforum for the Berliner Philharmoniker OPEN AIR 2016. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 23 Aug: The Last Shadow Puppets www.columbiatheater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

The best events in town

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. 6 Aug: Sould Explosion. 11 Aug: Voivod & Unearth. 13 Aug: Balkanbeats. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

©ISTOCK

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 16 Aug: Rihanna. 19 and 21 Aug: Hockey games with the Eisbären Berlin. www.mercedes-benzarena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

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ENTERTAINMENT Waldbühne

Bimah, the Jewish Theater

Beyond the Horizon

An outdoor arena for the biggest classical and rock concerts. 1 Aug: Sting. 13 Aug: Daniel Barenboim - The Waldbühnekonzert 2016. www.waldbuehneberlin.de. Am Glockenturm. Tickets T: 01806.570070. S Olympiastadion + bus. Off Map

Most shows are in German, but there are frequent Yiddish song performances. Check website for info. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstrasse. E3

The 1800-seat Theater Potsdamer Platz designed by Renzo Piano presents Beyond the Horizon, a musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www. stage-entertainment.de. Theater am Potsdamer Platz Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: ROOTS , a new circus performance by Cirk La Putyka. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Friedrichstadt-Palast

Tipi am Kanzleramt

Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. Until 16 Jul: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. www. palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. All month: Cabaret, The Musical. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Kookaburra

An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne

Volksbühne

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

photo by kai heimberg.

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals

A Berlin Summer Tradition What started as a one-time workshop in peace has given rise to the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra, an ensemble comprised of young Israeli, Palestinian, and other Arab musicians now led by co-founder Daniel Barenboim, celebrated conductor and music director of the Staatsoper Unter den Linden (Berlin State Opera). For 16 years, the orchestra, whose aim is to foster dialogue among Middle Eastern nations, has congregated for rehearsals before embarking on a tour anticipated by audiences around the world. A highlight of this year’s performance, held once again at the open-air Waldbühne amphitheater, is Martha Argerich, one of the most celebrated pianists living today, in a program featuring Friedrich Liszt’s Piano Concerto No. 1, Richard Wagner’s Tannhäuser Overture and the Funeral March from Götterdämmerung. 13 August. Waldbühne. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de

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xxxxx

ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

HINTERM HORIZONT Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz, all month

ROOTS Chamäleon Theater, all month

THE WYLD Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

CABARET Tipi am Kanzleramt, all month

TANZ IM AUGUST

PHOTO BY KAI HEIMBERG.

Various locations, 12 Aug–4 Sep

Roots at Chamäleon Theater

POP, ROCK & JAZZ STING Waldbühne, 1 Aug

SOULD EXPLOSION Lido, 6 Aug

BALKAN BEATS Lido, 13 Aug

RIHANNA Mercedes-Benz-Arena, 16 Aug

MOGWAI Admiralspalast, 30 Aug

BALLET & CLASSICAL YOUNG EURO CLASSIC Konzerthaus, 17–31 Aug

DANIEL BARENBOIM Waldbühne, 13 Aug

BERLINERPHILHARMONIKER Philharmonie, 27 Aug

POTSDAM PALACE NIGHTS Park Sanssouci, Potsdam, 19-21 Aug

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

This image: Monkey Bar. Inset below: Roof Bar at Hotel Amano.

Cocktails With A View From Charlottenburg to Kreuzberg, nearly every Berlin Kiez (neighborhood) boasts a worthwhile vista, as well as primo locales for enjoying the sights. After a long day of touring the town, kick back at one of these rooftop bars that offer some of the best scenery in town. Starting out in the West, Monkey Bar (www.25hours-hotels.com) earns its name from its position atop the 25hours Hotel, where visitors can peek into the adjacent zoo and its simian denizens, with the whole of the Tiergarten spreading out beyond. Order some of the signature hummus from neighboring restaurant Neni, a dish that pairs well with the Crazy Goat, an eccentric blend of whisky, port rosé, cacao liqueur, bitters, and egg white. Non-alcoholic drink options are just as inventive as their potent counterparts. With its location smack dab in the center of Berlin, the neighborhood of Mitte boasts perhaps the highest number of lofty perches for combined tippling and sightseeing. The

Rooftop Terrace of the Hotel de Rome (Behrenstr. 37, www.roccofortehotels.com) sits just above the neighboring facades of historical buildings, bringing guests eyeball level with the statues, while at night the dome of the Berlin Cathedral glows just a stone’s throw away. Summer finds a calendar of themed events (Bossa Nova BBQ, Havana Night), or come on a weeknight, when sparser crowds provide for a more serene sunset viewing. Just a short walk away, the Roof bar at Hotel Amano (Auguststr. 43, www. amanogroup.de) imparts a beach-like atmosphere, with its cushioned banquettes and canvas umbrellas. In the shadow of the iconic TV Tower (p. 36), a lively crowd gathers to the beat of DJs while enjoying a range of high-end cocktails and more casual refreshments, including top-shelf spirits and

several champagne vintages worthy of celebratory occasions. But perhaps the most popular destination for beverages and bird’s-eye views awaits at Klunkerkranich, perched five stories up on the Neukölln Arcaden. Despite the bar’s location in an obscure corner of the mall’s parking structure, revelers pack the place most nights, both for one of the city’s best views and the offbeat atmosphere that has come to epitomize Berlin. An eclectic entertainment calendar, regular food events, and a supremely chill atmosphere reflect the neighborhood’s bohemian vibe, which is underscored by the community gardening project. Grab a cold one and park yourself on a bench to enjoy a panorama of red-roofed buildings that stretches as far as the eye can see.

monkey bar, courtesy of 25hours hotel. Roof bar, courtesy of hotel amano.

Jenna Rose Robbins charts some of the city’s best sky-high venues for enjoying postcard-worthy panoramas.

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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Clubs Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Amber Suite

monkey bar, courtesy of 25hours hotel. Roof bar, courtesy of hotel amano.

NIGHTLIFE

This fun club for over-27s is the perfect place to socialize while dancing and drinking. There are two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609. U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Gretchen The DJs play funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this international and eclectic Kreuzberg club. Occasional live concerts. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. T: 030.25922702. U Mehringdamm, U Hallesches Tor. E4

Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin. de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl

crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www. thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

Prince Charles A stylish club set in an old swimming pool building. Tiled walls and concrete flooring are the main elements of its décor. Cocktail bar in the evening, wild dance club at night. Fri–Sun night. www.princecharlesberlin.com. Prinzenstr. 85F. U Moritzplatz. F4

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. T: 030.26367875. U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Roses Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Salon zur Wilden Renate In an old residential building on the cooler side of Friedrichshain, Wilde Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners. Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www.renate.cc. Alt-Stralau 70. T: 030.25041426. S Treptower Park, S Ostkreuz. H4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-toceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4 It's summer, the season of pink sunsets and fruity cocktails. Order one from The Grand (p. 60), one of our favorite cocktail bars in town.

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Wine & Cocktails Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www. hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Le Croco Bleu

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer. 9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242. T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Buck and Breck

Newton Bar

Bebel Bar and Velvet Room

You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden in summer. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www. schwarzescafe-berlin. de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newtonbar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Times Bar

A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, The Green Door bar has been promoting offering modern drinks "the power of positive drinking" for 15 and Caribbean cocktails years. www.greendoor.de alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. The Oscar Wilde Irish Pub S Savignyplatz. C4 The first Irish pub in Mitte, offering classics like Kilkenny and Guinness. Big screen for sporting events. Daily 10am-3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www. oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Friedrichstr. 112a. T: 030.2828166. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Knutschfleck Cocktailbörse At Berlin’s first cocktail stock exchange, the more people drink, the more prices drop. Alongside an entertainment program packed full with Moulin Rouge Burlesque nights to Studio 54 danceoffs, karaoke, and open mic on Sundays. www. knutschfleck-berlin.de. Alexanderstr. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2 Vintage furniture, Baroque elements, and decorated wallpaper give this comfy bar a bohemian feel. Probably the most luxurious bet on shabby Oranienstrasse. www.luzia.tc. Oranienstr. 34. T: 030.81799958. U Kottbusser Tor, Moritzplatz. F4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients

With its marine decor and views of the Landwehr Canal, the Ankerklause bar feels a lot like a ship. www.ankerklause.de

courtesy of ankerklause

Luzia

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THE GUIDE | ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

MUSEUM ISLAND AND BRANDENBURG GATE: © ISTOCK; GÄRTEN DER WELT: COURTESY OF GRÜN BERLIN; SWEN RÖSSLER, COURTESY OF SWEN ROESSLER.

ASK THE CONCIERGE Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Swen Roessler, concierge at the Grand Hyatt Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does your perfect day look like? A late breakfast in Prenzlauer Berg and a visit to the nearby flea market at Mauerpark, followed by a walk on Museum Island and dinner on the terrace at The Grand. When you have visitors where do you take them? Definitely Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall, but also Museum Island, Hackescher Markt, Karl-Marx-Allee, and the Gardens of the World. Secret Berlin tips? The Stasi prison in Hohenschönhausen and the Berliner Unterwelten, a subterranean museum exploring the city’s WWII and Cold War bunkers. Describe Berlin in three words. Historical, hip, exciting. What do you do after work? Ideally, go to a concert at the Waldbühne, the most beautiful venue in Germany. Tell us something about your hotel. Our three restaurants are the gastronomic pillar of our hotel: Vox Restaurant is a renowned Berlin hotspot with a show kitchen and sushi; Mesa features fascinating, refined German dishes; and the Tizian

Lounge offers international classics such as burgers and craft beers, as well as Middle Eastern delicacies. A funny concierge experience for our readers? Once, a guest showed me his tickets for the Vienna Konzerthaus and wanted to know how long it would take to get there. Once he realised the concert was not taking place in Berlin, I booked him tickets for the Berlin Konzerthaus instead, where he had a lovely evening. Which events do you recommend in August? Sting at the Waldbühne on 1 August and Daniel Barenboim’s Das Waldbühnenkonzert 2016 with the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra on 13 August. Where is the coziest spot in Berlin? In a café by the water on one of Berlin’s many lakes. Tips for a German specialty? You can’t pass up the Currywurst, but also not to be missed is a good kebab in Kreuzberg. Images: Clockwise from top: Museum Island, Brandenburg gate, the Gardens of the World.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for www.wheretraveler.com 61

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Want even more expert tips for the best food and drink around town? We asked the concierges from Berlin’s top hotels about their favorite spots:

Christoph Hundehege, Waldorf Astoria Hotel Dinner Bocca di Bacco (Friedrichstr. 167, www.boccadibacco.de). The best of Italian cuisine, in the heart of Mitte. Austeria Brasserie (Hundekehlestr. 33, www.austeria-brasserie.de) Oysters, seafood, and other French delights.

Drinks Lost in Grub Street (Jägerstr. 4, www.lostingrubstreet.de). Old-timey bowls of punch to share with friends. Stagger Lee (Nollendorfstr. 27, www.staggerlee.de). Great cocktails and a chic Wild West look.

n Statitohe f o th mon

U1 Warschauer Straße Given how busy the Warschauer Straße U-Bahn station is today, it’s hard to imagine it was closed for so many years. In 1961, when the Berlin Wall went up, the station – the final stop on the end of the U1 line – fell in East Berlin territory. After East and West Germany reunified decades later, the station underwent extensive renovations before reopening in 1995. Today, trains rumble slowly across the Oberbaum Bridge, which connects Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain, before pulling into the station, carrying loads of passengers heading to the many clubs and bars nearby. €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries

Outdoor dining in Kreuzberg.

Robert Helfrich, Louisa’s Place Dinner Le Petit Royal (Grolmanstr. 59, www.lepetitroyal.de). Top steaks and seafood in French brasserie style. Dae Mon (Monbijouplatz 11, www.dae-mon. com). Korean-influenced fine dining.

Drinks Galander (Stuttgarter Platz 15, www.galander-berlin.de). Exceptional cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. The Hat (Lotte-Lenya-Bogen 550, www.thehatbar.de). Jazz and drinks with a 1920s film noir vibe.

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

Toll number: 0180.6003690

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Currywurst and beer, a local favorite.

Lost Cards and Cheques

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

IST TOUCROUNT DIS PASS

Where Pass Berlin

The city of Berlin is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass Berlin makes experiencing the city convenient and hassle-free for travelers. Users of the Where Pass Berlin are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, gain discounted access to top attractions, and find valuable information in the included Berlin guidebook. Immerse yourself in everything Berlin has to offer with the Where Pass Berlin – visit www. wherepassberlin.com for details.

Cityscape: © shutterstock/lisa kolbasa. STATION & INSETS: © ISTOCK

Concierge Secrets

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WHERE PASS BERLIN

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BVG licence number: BVG-0024.15.

FREE TRAVEL ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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Where now | Florence Kasumba

Florence Kasumba [ACTRESS]

Born in Uganda, raised in West Germany’s Essen, and trained in acting in the Netherlands, Florence is a multicultural, multitalented performer who has acted in stage productions, TV shows and films both locally and abroad. She recently appeared in Captain America: Civil War and will be in the upcoming Wonder Woman movie and the Emerald City show on the NBC network. She has lived in Berlin since 2005. How did you end up in Berlin? I wanted to live in a very international city. I like my Kiez, my neighborhood – I often run into people I know and stop to chat. Berlin is also home to much of the German film business, which is my focus, and it has become my home away from Essen. What are some things you find inspiring about the city? You cannot find a better place for character studies than here. The international life I spoke of includes everyone under the sun and to have that at your doorstep makes acting easy. Berlin is an open city when it comes to creativity. There is very little judgment of artistic expression and that freedom is inspiring. Your recent work has been putting you in front of a very international audience. Do you experience a role differently when you are acting in English or in German? I do not. Some situations would be challenging, like period language, but those kinds of challenges are exciting. For my very first film job, I had to act in Dutch. That opened my eyes to how many roles were available to me in the acting world. I see

myself as an international actor. You’re just as comfortable on the stage as you are in front of the movie camera. Any local theaters you would recommend? A couple of favorite theaters include the Schaubühne, the Bar jeder Vernunft and its many solo artists, and the Gorki Theater for its international ensemble. What part of Berlin do you live in and what are some favorite things about it? I live in Charlottenburg near the Zoologischer Garten station. The neighborhood has restaurants, shopping, theaters, cinemas, and parks. My favorite area is Savignyplatz and I love the Spirit Yoga studio (www.spirityoga. de). The Shaolin Temple Germany (www. shaolin-tempel.eu) is the perfect place to train. I can walk in anytime and take their open classes, which are taught by monks. When you have friends or family visiting, where do you take them? I love food. A must is a juicy steak at The Bird (Am Falkplatz 5, www.thebirdinberlin.com). I like taking visitors to places where they can get to know some of Berlin’s lifestyle, food, and people – places like Akazienstraße for a

Double Eye coffee (www.doubleeye.de), Schwarzes Café on Kantstraße (www. schwarzescafe-berlin.de)– I love the lentil soup and carrot cake, or the market on Winterfeldtplatz on Saturdays. Imagine you have the entire day off. How would you spend your perfect day? I would enjoy a pancake breakfast with my family, work out for two hours, then join our Yorkshire terrier Fifi for a nap. Then I would settle into a leather lounge chair at the Astor Film Lounge and put my feet up during a good film (www.astor-filmlounge.de). Next comes coffee and cake with friends at Berliner Kaffeerösterei around the corner (www. berliner-kaffeeroesterei.de). Then a stroll to Fritz & Co. on Wittenbergplatz for my favorite currywurst and fries with saté sauce and garlic mayo. I would end the evening with a chocolate cocktail at the Ellington Hotel bar. Favorite recent discoveries? Burger de Ville at its new Kranzler Eck location. They have 100% Angus beef burgers and gourmet fries, which are amazing. Clockwise from top left: A juicy steak; Florence Kasumba; The Kranzler Eck; Currywurst; cappuccino at Double Eye; The Schaubühne Theater.

steak, Kranzler Eck and currywurst: ©istock; Florence Kasumba: photo by Stephan Kluether; Coffee, courtesy of Double Eye Coffee; Schaubühne: By Rainer Lück http://1RL.de - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons. wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6411361

My Berlin

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