Where Magazin Juni 2016

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BEST OF FASHION MORE THAN 300 SHOPS

Photo by Liu Jo

Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm

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Berlin

CONTENTS

06.16 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

18

SHOPPING

22

4 Editor’s Note

XX

8 Hot Dates

Pack your beach bag now and get ready to make the most of summer.

Highlights of this month's events, from surrealists to science experiments.

SIGHTSEEING

37

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

42

XX

Get ready for the artistic takeover of the capital and head to the 9th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art.

66 12

8

DINING

46 XX

Also Inside 61 Ask The Concierge Hatem Ferjani of the Berlin Marriott Hotel shares his sightseeing and dining recommendations. JUNE 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

Berlin

®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

À LA MODE

Where Now 12 Berlin Manual

Your how-to guide to viewing the Wall, living like a royal, and feeling the vibes in Berlin.

A roundup of the musical highlights at Berlin's outdoor amphitheater Waldbühne.

18 Ice Cream

The scoop on Berlin's hot love affair with this fabulous cold treat.

BY THE WHERE TEAM

BY HILDA HOY

16 Your Berlin Style

20 Picnic In Style

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

BY CLAUDIA KOKSCH

Berlin Fashion Week is not the time for a fashion identity crisis – take our quiz.

NIGHTLIFE

58

The much-vilified spirit, absinthe, is definitely making a comeback, minus the halluncinations.

Essential springtime items for your next picnic on Tempelhofer Feld.

ESSENTIALS

61

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

INTRODUCING WHERE PASS BERLIN

Discover your Berlin style

ENTERTAINMENT

52

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A map of Central Berlin

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ON THE COVER

The Where Pass provides visitors with exceptional discounts to the city’s must-see attractions with integrated transport ticket and an informative city guidebook. Visiting Berlin has never been more convenient. See wherepassberlin.com for more details

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Sissi Chen Join this food blogger as she eats her way through Berlin's restaurant and café scene.

A new adjective has entered our culinary vocabulary: locavore, eating regional produce for the freshest taste of the season.

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66 My Perfect Day

in-

CHARLESFREGERLAUFRPORTFOLIO, COURTESY OF ME COLLECTORS ROOM; ICE CREAM, COURTESY OF ANNA DURKES; SCOOTER: COURTESY OF MINIMOTO STORE, BERLIN; FACADES AND BARS: ©ISTOCK PHOTO.

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Summertime is smothered in strawberries, freshly picked straight from the fields.

B Mu

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One of the many facets of Berlin that nobody expects is how much water there is in the city. 300kms of rivers and canals, which often open up to form idyllic lakes, give Berlin a vacationy feel even in its most industrial parts. And what is more pleasant and relaxing than drinking a beer while watching boats (or swans) go by? Come evening, Berliners flock to the banks of the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg to watch the sun slowly go down behind the buildings, and if I could, I would join them every single night for the whole summer. But June is also Berlin's wettest month of the year, so it may be a good idea to find indoor alternatives. A great one is the Long Night of the Sciences, taking place on 11 June at various scientific locations (see p. 8). Or simply turn to our Entertainment section (p. 52) for a plethora of great events and exhibitions.

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Wilhelm-Kabus-Strasse 21-35, Aufgang 2, 10829 Berlin. Tel: (+49) 030 6139490. Fax: (+49) 030 61394959. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In Berlin, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a supporter of Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland eV/Les Clefs D'Or Germany and a member of Berlin Partner.

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Discover The City

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AMERICAN EXPRESS

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Welcome to the capital! Explore the many exclusive offers for American Express cardholders and enjoy your stay in Germany’s most exciting city. Genießen Sie Ihren Aufenthalt in Deutschlands aufregendster Stadt! Entdecken Sie viele exklusive Angebote für American Express Karteninhaber.

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HOT

DATES June in Berlin is packed with exciting events, from electrifying rock concerts to summer staples and scientific discoveries.

11

LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES SATURDAY

For those who've ever wished to live out the movie Night at the Museum, this event might be the next best thing, as scientific institutions in Berlin and Potsdam welcome visitors until midnight. One ticket gets you entrance both to the participating venues and the shuttle bus linking the various participating museums, laboratories, and lecture halls. The event has grown in popularity since its debut a decade ago, so buying tickets ahead of time is recommended. www.langenachtderwissenschaften.de 8 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2016

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PRIVATE EXPOSURE

22

UNTIL WEDNESDAY

VELOTHON

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FROM SATURDAY

Whether you’ve got a competitive streak or just want to pedal along while taking in the scenery, Berlin’s two-day cycling extravaganza offers amateurs and pros the rare opportunity to bike traffic-free courses stretching 60 to 120 kilometers (37 to 74 miles). If you missed the registration deadline, you can still cheer on the cyclists along the route, which begins at Brandenburg Gate. www.velothon-berlin.de

Do you have the feeling someone is watching you? With CCTV lining the streets, mobile phones that track our location, and information being freely shared online this may not be far from the truth. Until 22 June, me Collectors Room invites us to think about the theme of exposure through its glass-fronted architecture, which puts viewers on display, and through photography and installations that examine the power of the gaze. www.me-berlin.com

SURREAL WORLDS

21 UNTIL TUESDAY

MUSE

3 FRIDAY

Epic. Larger than life. The best live band in rock today. The accolades never seem to end for the British trio, who land at Mercedes-Benz Arena for the only Berlin stop on the Drones World Tour. The secret to the band's success may lie in this quote from frontman Mike Bellamy: “If we’re offending Paris Hilton, we must be doing something right.” www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

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You only have until 21 June to visit the exhibition New Eyes: Surreal Worlds at the Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg in Charlottenburg. With 250 works by surrealists such as Dalí, Magritte, Goya, and Max Ernst, the exhibition traces the history of fantastical art and its main features, including metamorphosis and pictorial automatism, which involved painting in a trance-like state without the artist's conscious input. www.smb.museum

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SUNDAY

THE BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER UNDER THE STARS

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The city’s renowned ensemble returns to the Waldbühne open-air amphitheater for its annual summertime concert, this year conducted by Yannick Nézet-Séguin of Montreal’s Orchestre Métropolitain, who fetes Czech heritage with an evening of Dvorak. Taking in a performance at the outdoor stage, one of the most famous in Europe, is a veritable Berlin rite of summer, so check the venue website for the season’s program. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de

WEINSOMMER FROM SUNDAY

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“Try, inform, enjoy.” That’s the motto of the annual event held amid the verdant splendor of the city’s Botanical Garden. Wineries from the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate, the country’s largest wine-producer, present more than 300 wines, including those from Mosel, Pfalz, and other up-and-coming regions that are quickly earning a name for themselves among avid oenophiles. www.weinsommer.de

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FROM FRIDAY

48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN

For two days, the city’s largest arts festival offers an array of artistic expression, all centered in the northern part of Neukölln, a neighborhood that has of late become well known as a bohemian enclave. Although the event, recognized as one of “Europe’s finest festivals,” focuses on art with a political bent, there’s plenty to satisfy even the most casual art lover. Youngsters can partake in Junge Kunst (Festival of Young Art), a fest-within-a-fest offering exhibits and hands-on activities. www.48-stunden-neukoelln.de

JUNE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

HOT DATES

Groove to some cool French-German jazz cats at the Jazzdor Festival at Kesselhaus. Explore the latest in contemporary design at the DMY Festival at Kraftwerk Mitte. Experience Mozart’s famed opera, The Magic Flute, at Deutsche Oper. Discover hip young indie acts at the weekend-long Torstraßen Festival. Enjoy lively classic operetta with a performance of Clivia at Komische Oper. Explore the world of Cranach the Elder and the Younger at Jagdschloss Grunewald. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie’s free lunch concert at 1pm. Metalheads flock to Waldbühne to catch Black Sabbath and Ozzy Osbourne. Enjoy ultimate relaxation in the flotation pool and saunas of Kreuzberg’s Liquidrom spa. See the Staatsballett dance Jewels, a mesmerizing contemporary ballet number. Enjoy a Saturday night out on the town at Mitte’s craft cocktail bar Redwood. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten’s Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Legendary hip hoppers Cypress Hill get the crowds going at Zitadelle Spandau tonight. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Puccini’s soaring, dramatic Italian opera Tosca is on the program at Deutsche Oper. Visit Chamäleon Theater to watch Czech circus masters at work in the ROOTS show. Head to the Philharmonie chamber music hall to hear a string trio play beautiful Bach. Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner, drinks, and dancing at Bar Tausend. The one and only Bruce Springsteen rocks out tonight at Olympiastadion. One of the most influential singer-songwriters of her time, PJ Harvey plays Zitadelle Spandau. Celebrate Midsummer with Fete de la Musique – free concerts on the city streets. American thrash-rockers Megadeth play live at Huxleys Neue Welt. Sip and savor the best German wines at the WeinSommer fest at the Botanical Gardens. Discover an abundance of art with the weekend-long 48 Hours Neukölln festival. Kreuzberg gets jazzy all weekend with the three-day-long Bergmannstraßenfest. Sundays are for brunching. Enjoy the Russian spread at Datscha, Gabriel-Max-Str. 1. Discover the ghetto-pop of Denmark's Lukas Graham at Huxleys Neue Welt. Ready for your closeup? Berlin Fashion Week kicks off today with events across town. Perennial hit-makers Coldplay play to a huge crowd at Olympiastadion tonight. Take a day trip out west to discover the luxe royal palaces at Potsdam’s Sanssouci Park.

LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES: COURTESY OF LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES; VELOTHON: COURTESY OF VELOTHON; CHARLES-FRÉGER-LAUFR-PORTFOLIO, COURTESY OF ME COLLECTORS ROOM; MUSE: COURTESY OF MUSE AND PROMOTION, PHOTO BY GAVIN BOND; WALDBÜHNE: COURTESY OF WALDBÜHNE; WEINSOMMER: COURTESY OF WEINSOMMER; 48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN: KÜNSTLER APCIAURI, COURTESY OF 48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section. 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2016

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BERLIN Manual

Where’S THE ICONIC BERLIN FOOD?

Currywurst and döner should be on every Berlin visitor’s to-do list, but with all the stands in town, it’s hard to pick the best. For one of the city’s most famous currywurst stalls, visit Konnopke’s Imbiss (Schönhauser Allee 44b) in Prenzlauer Berg, whose sausages have kept Berliners happy for almost a century. Get to know the spicy wurst even better at the Currywurst Museum (www. currywurstmuseum.com), exploring the history and significance of Berlin’s most famous culinary export. Though of more recent invention, the döner kebab also enjoys a respectable history. Created by a Turkish immigrant in the 1970s to provide guest workers with a fast lunch, it quickly became West Berlin’s street food of choice. At Imren (Boppstr. 10) you can be sure you’re in for the real thing, as it’s smack in the middle of the Turkish part of Kreuzberg. The shop is nearly always full, owing its fame to its döners’ tender, perfectly seasoned meat and fresh bread. To try both Berlin famous delights in one go, Mehringdamm is your one-stop spot, with Mustafa’s chicken and vegetable döner on one side of the road (look for the long line of people as you exit the U-Bahn) and the famous Curry36 directly opposite.

Best spot for a beer?

According to locals, life’s too short not to indulge as often as possible in a foamy glass of beer under a green tree canopy. Jump right into the quintessential Biergarten tradition at Prater (Kastanienallee 7–9, www.pratergarten.de), the oldest beer garden in the city, where you can enjoy beer and traditional German specialties in the shade of chestnut trees. Another favorite is Brauhaus Rixdorf in Neukölln (Glasower Str. 27, www.brauhaus-rixdorf.de), which also has its own brewery and traditional German restaurant, as well as a large patio with TV screens, should you want to catch a EURO 2016 soccer game. Perhaps the most idyllic of all beer gardens is the pond-side Café am Neuen See in the middle of Tiergarten park, where you can paddle in a rented boat before relaxing with a beer and delicious Flammkuchen (pizza-like flatbread with sour cream and leek).

main image: © istock photo; Currywurst: © istock photo; cafe am neuen see: courtesy of cafe am neuen see.

The Where team has all the answers to unlock the perfect Berlin stay

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I Want to fEEL THE BERLIN VIBES...

What makes Berlin the epicenter of Europe’s alternative scene? The great clubs, the elusive post-industrial spaces, or the easy going attitude of the locals? Probably all of the above, combined with the city’s knack for continually surprising its visitors. Neukölln’s Klunkerkranich (Karl-Marx-Str. 66, 5th floor, www.klunkerkranich.de), for example, feels like a beach bar up on the rooftop of a department store. Its atmosphere and view are so striking that Gucci used it as the set for its 2016 summer campaign. For more Berlin vibes, head to the banks of the Spree river at Club der Visionäre (clubdervisionaere. com) or at Holzmarkt, a large riverside complex housing art galleries, clubs, and the relaxed outdoor bar Pampas (Holzmarkt Str. 19–30, www.holzmarkt.com).

What was life like for the prussian royals?

club der visionäre, Charlottenburg palace, and wall: © istock photo; dish: umami kreuzberg.

main image: © istock photo; Currywurst: © istock photo; cafe am neuen see: courtesy of cafe am neuen see.

Where now | BERLIN MANUAL

For just one night, leave behind humdrum reality and live it up like a king or queen. Charlottenburg Palace, the opulent summer dwellings of Prussia’s Hohenzollern royal family, hosts regular dinners and concerts drenched in baroque grandeur. Start by exploring the grand rooms of the palace, enjoy a candlelit three-course dinner in the former theater, then take in a classical concert performed by the Berlin Residence Orchestra in authentic period costumes (www. residenzkonzerte.berlin). To experience more about how the aristocracy lived, take the S-Bahn east to Schloss Köpenick, a 17th-century palace set in the middle of the Dahme River and surrounded by English-style gardens (www.smb.museum). Inside are splendidly preserved interiors and exhibits of Renaissance and Rococo design, from tapestries to furniture.

Where can I experience Berlin’s multicultural side?

In the past couple of years, Berliners have jumped on the bandwagon of the street food culture, and snacks from all corners of the world are now ubiquitous. Every Thursday, vendors congregate at Markthalle Neun market hall for the Street Food Thursday event, selling Asian dumplings, Mexican tacos, Italian focaccia, and French crepes. For a journey to the markets of Southeast Asia, you need only travel as far as the Thaiwiese in Wilmersdorf’s Preußenpark (U Fehrbelliner Platz). Every Sunday, Thai and Vietnamese families gather to cook and sell their delicious food right on the grass. For a myriad of Middle Eastern spices and flavors, stroll through the Turkish Market on Maybachufer (Tuesdays and Fridays 11am–6:30pm), followed by a visit to the Turkish Hamam for women (Mariannenstr. 6, www.hamamberlin.de).

Where is the best view of the Wall?

It’s been 27 years since the Berlin Wall came down and today not much remains of it, but the Berlin Wall Memorial Center next to U-Bahn Bernauer Straße still conveys a feel for the once-mighty Cold War barrier. The highlight of the exhibit is a well-preserved 70-meter (230ft.) segment that illustrates the Wall’s double fortifications and so-called “death strip” in between. The East Side Gallery (Mühlenstraße, S Warschauer Straße) provides a more colorful view, with 1.5 km (0.9mi) of preserved Berlin Wall decorated with murals by more than 100 international artists. There are more slabs of the Berlin Wall scattered around town, but if you are wondering where the other 100+ kilometers of barrier disappeared to, make the trek to Teltow (Oderstr.) to visit the so-called “Wall cemetery,” where 130 concrete segments stand waiting to be purchased. w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m   13

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Where now | BERLIN MANUAL

How Can I Get into Berghain?

For many visitors to Berlin, the city’s worldfamous nightlife scene is a major draw. High up on the itinerary is a night (or an entire weekend) at the granddaddy of local clubs, Berghain. Perhaps the only thing more legendary than this techno temple’s wild parties is its impenetrable bouncers. To get in, revelers can line up for well over an hour, only to be coolly turned away at the door. There are no hard and fast rules, but the best way to ensure you make it past the stone-faced security is to play it cool and dress casual – the biggest sin would be to look like you’re trying too hard. Don’t show up with entourage, and remember that you’re being watched as you wait in line: The rowdy, drunken, and obnoxious never get nodded in. The same guidelines apply at other renowned clubs like Tresor and Watergate. For access to classier clubs like The Pearl, PURO Sky Lounge, Asphalt, and Bar Tausend (see Nightlife listings, p. 59) it’s the opposite: To meet the bouncers’ approval, you’ll want to dress to impress.

A lot has changed since East Germany merged with the West, but the city’s Communist past is still evident. To create your own retro East German souvenir, take a selfie in front of the Kino International on Karl-Marx-Allee (www.kino-international.com), by the statue of Marx and Engels on Karl-Liebknecht-Straße, or in the old-fashioned café inside the Stasi Museum (Ruschestr. 103, www.stasimuseum.de). For souvenirs you can use, scour the Boxhagener Platz or Arkonaplatz flea markets for East German design objects like the famous chicken-shaped egg cups or 1960s orange lamps. Try your hand driving one of the cute, classic GDR “Trabi” cars in a guided driving tour through the city center with Trabi World (www.trabi-world.com). If that experience converts you into a fan of the funky plastic cars, you can snap up a retro model for as little as €500 on www. ebaykleinanzeigen.de.

how can I Survive sightseeing with kids?

Sightseeing and children aren’t always a good match, and sometimes the only compromise is to take lots of breaks between museums and monuments. Fortunately, Berlin has more than 2000 play areas, conveniently mapped on www.ihrspielplatz.de. Next to the Reichstag on John-Foster-Allee, for example, is a huge playground where the kids can climb or dig in a big sandbox. A good place to go after visiting the Wall Memorial in Prenzlauer Berg is Kollwitzplatz, which not only has a weekend farmers’ market and cute shops to peruse but also three playground areas aimed at different age groups. When in Kreuzberg, let the kids run around Viktoriapark, then head to the park’s fabulous Golgatha beer garden, where the rugrats can let loose in the playground while you refresh with a beer (Dudenstr. 40–64, www.golgatha-berlin.de).

club and trabi: © istock photo; playground: photo by solveig steinhardt.

Where can i Find some GDR Treasures?

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cont empoRARy fAshion tRAde show

28 - 30 June 2016 ARenA BeRlin

www.seekexhiBitions.com

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Where now | FIND YOUR OWN STYLE

Find your

Berlin style

It’s that time of year again: Berlin Fashion Week is back, with catwalk shows and parties all over town. To celebrate, take our test and discover which Berlin label you should be wearing.

How do you like to dress? Modern & contemporary

Red-carpet event at the Berlinale film festival

Chic & elegant

Ideal night out?

Your wardrobe is primarily full of...

Opening night at Berlin Fashion Week

Your favorite Berlin activity would be

dark monochrome Lots of colors

KAVIAR GAUCHE Timelessly beautiful cocktail dresses, gowns, and bridal wear. Linienstr. 44. www.kaviar gauche.com

All over the place

MICHAEL MICHALSKY

What’s your take on gender?

Real fashion for real people is his motto. Potsdamer Platz 4. www.michalsky.com

Catching some sun by the river

Do you like being the center of attention?

Girly and feminine, please Androgyny rocks!

Only sometimes

Favorite pattern? ISABEL DE HILLERIN

Skating at Tempelhofer Park

MYKITA

Something playful

TITUS BERLIN

Shiny embellishments, neon applications, and non-conservative designs. Mulackstr. 4. www.starstyling.net

Asymmetrical stripes

ESTHER PERBANDT

Visiting galleries in Mitte

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Androgynous cuts, jagged silhouettes, and lots of black. Almstadtstr. 3. www.esther perbandt.com

POTIPOTI

ANNTIAN

Loud prints, whimsical patterns, and witty details. Rosenthaler Str. 66. www.potipoti.com

Hand-painted and printed graphics and color. Konk, Kleine Hamburger Str. 15. www.anntian.de

ILLUSTRATIONS ©ISTOCK

Skateboarding accessories for pros and amateurs alike. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 9. www.titus.de

STARSTYLING

Romantic traditions plus innovation and elegance. Konk, Kleine Hamburger Str. 15. www.isabellde hillerin.com

Hand-crafted quality eyewear. Rosa-LuxemburgStr. 6. www.mykita.com

Yes, definitely!

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ll A Weream Sc or... F

Every summer, Berliners go wild for ice cream. Hilda Hoy got to the bottom of Berlin’s hot love affair with this cold treat.

S

weet, rich, and indulgent, ice cream has been a much-loved treat ever since mankind figured out refrigeration. But in the last few years, Berlin has been undergoing a veritable ice cream boom. Forget plain old chocolate and vanilla. Say goodbye to brightly saturated scoops laden with artificial colors and additives. Scores of new ice cream shops have popped up all over town, and in practically every neighborhood, small, independent parlors now hawk handmade, top-quality, artisanal flavors that are, needless to say, utterly delicious. CLASSIC GELATO IN KREUZBERG Giorgio and Anna Luisa Sau, owners of Anna Durkes gelato (Graefestr. 80, www. annadurkes.com), are originally from Sardinia and were still living in Milan when they visited Berlin for the 2008 marathon. They fell in love with the city and, a few years later, they were able to fulfill a longtime dream and open their own gelato shop in the peaceful, pretty Graefekiez neighborhood in Kreuzberg. For Giorgio, it was a relief to leave behind a stressful law career and instead spend his

days chatting with happy customers. Anna Luisa, a former biologist, combined her scientific background with intensive training from an Italian gelato master to become the culinary whiz behind every luscious scoop that Anna Durkes sells. Their focus is primarily classic Italian gelato flavors like pistachio, hazelnut, intense variations of milk and dark chocolate, and crema al limone, a rich custard with a whiff of lemon. Anna Luisa’s

creative, self-devised recipes are a hit too, like the ever-popular Anna Durkes flavor: vanilla with peanuts and chocolate bits. Everything is made “the old way – from scratch,” says Giorgio. Producing without chemical emulsifiers, artificial flavors, and preservatives makes their work harder, but it’s definitely worth it. “You can really notice the difference between something made industrially and something artisanal,” he adds.

Top: ice cream at Hokey Pokey; This photo: the interior of Anna Durkes

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PREVIOUS PAGE: MAIN IMAGE: ICE CREAM AT HOKEY POKEY; BOTTOM: THE INTERIOR OF ANNA DURKES; THIS PAGE, FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: GLASSES: HOKEY POKEY; CHEFS: HOKEY POKEY: SCOOP: COURTESY OF ANNA DURKES. COUPLE: COURTESY OF ANNA DURKES; MAIKE DE ROSE: COURTESY OF MAIKE DE ROSE.

WHERE NOW | ICE CREAM

Expert Tips from Berlin’s Ice Cream Blogger www.berlinissteis.wordpress.com Maike de Rose is undoubtedly one of the city’s foremost ice cream experts. For the last two years, she has been blogging about ice cream in Berlin, reviewing her favorites and giving tips about the best spots.

Ice cream in a glass at Hokey Pokey; ice cream chefs in action at Hokey Pokey; ice cream scoop at Anna Durkes. Below: Giorgio and Anna Luisa Sau, owners of Anna Durkes.

While the job is rewarding, it’s also surprisingly grueling to make and sell ice cream. Last year they both worked six months straight without a single day off, so the aim this year is to share the workload with a few trusted staff. Despite all the hard work, nothing beats the feeling of being one of the neighborhood’s favorite spots, and Giorgio greets many of the customers coming through the door by name. Over the last few years, he and Anna Luisa have watched some of their most faithful clientele grow up from icecream-loving babies to icecream-loving kindergarteners. “I always say this shop is like our living room. That’s the nicest thing about this place,” says Giorgio with a smile. MORE CAN’TMISS SPOTS FOR HANDMADE ICE CREAM: Hokey Pokey Eispatisserie Stargarder Str. 73, Prenzlauer Berg. www.hokey-pokey.de Despite prices well above the Berlin average, Hokey Pokey remains incredibly popular, often with a lineup down the block. And yes, the wait is worth it. Try the

rocky road, authentic Sicilian pistachio, or signature Hokey Pokey, vanilla with crunchy honeycomb caramel bits. Die Eismacher Körtestr. 10, Kreuzberg. www.eismacher-berlin.de Unusual and creative is the calling card here, with varieties like violet blossom and blackberry-lavender, plus two Filipino flavors, ube (a purple yam) and pandan (a green leaf with a vanilla-cocoa aroma). Rosa Canina Hufelandstr. 7, Prenzlauer Berg. www.rosacanina.eu The ice cream here is fully organic, though the biggest selling point is still the taste. Besides more traditional options like blueberry or hazelnut, make sure to try signature flavors like black sesame. Eismanufaktur www.eismanufaktur-berlin.de With six locations all around the city, great Eismanufaktur ice cream is never far away. One of Berlin’s original ice cream success stories, the chain makes a standout salted caramel flavor and dairy-free cocoa sorbet.

“Ever since I was a child, ice cream has been something close to my heart,” de Rose says. “My grandmother used to take me out for ice cream and she made these outings like special little trips. Ice cream is like a moment of happiness, escaping from the stress of everyday life and choosing to take pleasure in something. Even just writing about ice cream puts a smile on my face.” It’s particularly exciting to write about Berlin ice cream at a time when high-quality and natural ingredients is the new norm, she says. “Many ice cream makers in Berlin are doing what they do because they truly love their product. There are many fantastic shops offering wonderful ice cream for every taste, and they’re ensuring that there is a growing fan base here that values quality over quantity.” Nearly 50 reviews later, she’s found a few favorites. In addition to Anna Durkes (previous page), where she recommends the crema al limone, these are her top picks: Kontor Eismanufaktur Berlin (Danziger Str. 65, www.facebook.com/ZeitfuerEis) “From the ice cream to the waffle cones to the whipped cream, it’s all vegan, proving that ‘vegan’ doesn’t have to mean missing out on taste or indulgence. Especially delicious is the chocolate-peanut Reese’s Pieces flavor.” Berlin Homemade Icecream (Elßholzstr. 10, www.leckmich.it) “Everything here is made by hand. Even the nuts are roasted right on site. In addition to deliciously indulgent classics, there are often really unique flavor creations as well. I would definitely recommend licorice.”

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WHERE NOW | SPRING SHOPPING

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Join Claudia Koksch for a stylish al fresco lunch at Tempelhofer Feld.

1. Fan by Pylones, Kurfürstendamm 225. 2. Sunglasses by Mykita, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38–50. 3. Eco water bottle by Dopper, Berlin Deluxe at Boulevard Berlin, Schloßstr. 11–15, or dopper.com. 4. A picnic basket by Reisenthel, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38–50. 5. Headphones by Urbanears, www.urbanears.com. 6. Dress by UNIQLO, Leipziger Platz 16. 7. Sandal by IKKS, Neue Schönhauser Str. 16. 8. Rent a scooter from Minimoto Store Berlin, Rykestr. 27, berlin@minimoto.me. 20 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2016

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Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 05.05.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

24,90 €

UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE

UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ

UNIQLO HACKESCHER MARKT

Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin  Mo - Do 10:00 - 20:30  Fr - Sa 10:00 - 21:00

Leipziger Platz 16, 10117 Berlin  Mo - Sa 10:00 - 21:00

Rosenthaler Straße 42, 10178 Berlin  Mo - Sa 10:00 - 21:00

Shop Online: uniqlo.com/de

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Beach Bag Essentials If you're like me, you’ve spent the last few months trying to burn off those winter treats and prepare your body for the big unveiling down by the sea – or, in Berlin's case, lake. But never mind the little diet slip-ups along the way – a few carefully selected accessories thrown into your beach bag will ensure you’re looking good regardless, whether on the golden sands of Waikiki or of Berlin’s popular Strandbad Wannsee. A specialty shop that can advise on which colors, cut, and patterns to wear to draw the attention away from any trouble areas is the key to a confident beach vacation. Körpernah (Uhlandstr. 39, www.koerpernah-berlin.de) has years of experience finding the perfect suit for every woman. Their flagship store in Wilmersdorf carries a super-feminine selection by brands such as Cyell, Lidea, or Watercult, in addition to beach accessories like bags, towels, and sarongs. Or visit Viabella (Trautenaustr. 12,

www.viabella-dessous.de), whose personalized service will help you feel comfortable strutting along the shores with styles from Rosa Faia and Seafolly. Stylish shades are also essential. Make a visit to the Ic! Berlin showroom (Max-Beer-Str. 17, www. ic-berlin.de) to select your favorite designer pairs, presented on vintage flight-attendant trolleys. These featherlight glasses are made to last, with a genius, screwless spring-hinge clip. For exclusive vintage sunglasses, Lunettes Selection (Torstr. 172. www.lunettes-selection. de) will have you covered. From '80s “nerd” glasses to '50s horn-rimmed and cat-eye frames, the eyewear on display here is also a

lesson in fashion history. Top your ensemble with a wide-brimmed summer hat to provide shade wherever you go. Hut Styler (www.hut-styler.de), at the Alexa shopping center, has a huge selection of fedora, trilby, panama, and straw hats to protect you from harsh rays. For luxury, visit the Rike Feurstein store (www. rikefeurstein.com) just off Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, with its trilby style hats made from 100 percent panama straw, seagrass, or paper. The Berlinbased designer has won multiple awards for her handcrafted pieces, which blur the line between fashion and art. Don’t forget to throw in sunscreen and a bottle of water, as sunburn and heatstroke have never been en vogue.

© istock photo.

Summer has finally arrived, and Annabelle Mallia plans to make the most of it.

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Visit our BREE Stores in Berlin LP12 Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12-13 10117 Berlin KaDeWe Tauentzienstr. 21-24 10789 Berlin Kurfürstendamm Kurfürstendamm 36 10719 Berlin

Berlin Hannover München Hamburg Düsseldorf Sylt Wien Zürich Tokyo Beijing Luxemburg shop online at bree.com WB BREE.indd 1

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MICHAEL KORS

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

For more than a century, Falke has been at the forefront of hosiery, thanks to its focus on quality and eye for burgeoning trends. Abiding by the motto "stylish fashions for modern people," the Schmallenberg-based label has since expanded to include chic sportswear, menswear, and accessories. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030 88553565 www.falke.com

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 24  W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2016

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Frames: MYKITA LITE SUN ROOPE, LITE SUN RANI | Photography: Mark Borthwick

MYKITA SHOP BERLIN BUDAPESTER STR. 38–50, 10787 BERLIN, TEL: +49 30 28474114 MYKITA SHOPS BERLIN | CARTAGENA | MONTERREY | NEW YORK | PARIS | TOKYO | VIENNA | WASHINGTON | ZERMATT | ZURICH SHOP ONLINE AT MYKITA.COM

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Checkpoint Charlie

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

PASS VISIT WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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VOLKER LANG STORE

MÜHLE STORE BERLIN

GANNI BERLIN

Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories. The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since. Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Bringing traditional shaving culture to the modern man, German manufacturer MÜHLE offers a wide range of traditional shaving accessories such as beautiful razors and shaving brushes, soaps, creams and skin care products. Get a haircut or enjoy a straight razor shave at the elegant barbershop.

Copenhagen brand Ganni is one of the fastestgrowing fashion labels, filling the gap in the contemporary market for easy-to-wear pieces for women. Ganni is all about attitude, contrast, and mixing things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. Bring the magazine and get 10% off.

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de

Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429 www.muehle-shaving.com

Alte Schönhauser Strasse 6. T: 030 27590966 www.ganni.com

shop stop

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

TORSTRASSE

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

ENT

ROS

GORM

ANNS

LINIENSTRASSE

TR.

Rosenthaler Platz TORS

TRAS

No 74

SE Kaviar Gauche

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 http://de.neweracap.eu shop stop

shop stop

RASSE

ADTST

ALMST

ER

AUS

ÖNH

SCH

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ALT

ASSE

Looking for a new cap? The largest and fastest growing headwear manufacturer in the world has a flagship store in Berlin, with more than 1000 cap styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd.

ER STR

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE

BURG

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SSE

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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin ASSE M R V T U O S L T LKER ACKST S Cotélac AUGU LANG RASS Greta Store E & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen T sC RAS afé GIPSS SE Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka REBECCA HIRT Be Lieb -Oh SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es r HIE TRA k h i n e NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS rman d 11 SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ MÜHLE Store Berlin Michael Kors NZ STR Strellson Ad MCM ASS Gretchen Store ida Dr IK We E s e y B K k Home on earth u S kda designer depot UN ffalo orn y IQ Hackesche Höfe LO Boots & Shoes Mykita T R S A N S E S S E K Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS HS C RO Onepiece Concept Store

shop stop

HOME ON EARTH

CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR

REBECCA STORE

Barcelona-founded Home on earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp, this store just opened its first branch in Berlin.

It's heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes stocks the brand's line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy and a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices. And with their Magic Candy Factory, a 3D food printer, customers can easily create their own vegan fruit gum.

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.katjes.de

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de.

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SHOPPING Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platzarkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Barbour Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and

versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion. com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags by By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement

your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer | depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

ESCADA Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. www.escada.com. See website for more locations. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de.

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE

SHOES UK

US

CLOTHES Euro

UK

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

TWIN-SET Simona Barbieri Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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SHOPPING

Friedrichstr. 153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gretchen Store Berlin Eclectic combinations of shiny glazed and waxed leathers and elaborate design elements are distinct to the Berlin-based Gretchen look. On offer are exclusive leather bags and accessories, including the signature, award-winning Tango Pouch. www.mygretchen.com. Rosenthalerstr. 4041, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4. T: 030.20215165. S Hackesher Markt, U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Marc Cain

Berlin Style, Rediscovered

One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Berlin-born designer Esther Perbandt formed her fashion personality in Moscow, received her fashion education in Paris, and then came back to Berlin to express her personal style through her creations. Her gender-neutral fashion, featuring sober colors and interesting fabrics, is meant for independent and unconventional types, who can also use Perbandt's made-to-measure service for perfect fitting. For her collection lookbooks and special portraits, Esther Perbandt works together with photographer Birgit Kaulfuss, known for her shots of artists, actors, designers, and musicians, and the summer campaign, pictured here and on the cover, features Italian model Sasha Marini dressed in Perbandt's pure Berlin style.

Michael Sontag

Almstadtstr. 3. 030 88536791. www.birgitkaulfuss.com. www.estherperbandt.com.

MaxMara

The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, worn by celebrities. Their comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection adding bags, lingerie, beachwear and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3

UNIQLO

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for Patrick Hellmann women, men, and children. www.uniqlo. Among the most successful luxury brands com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger stands for timelessness, elegant Platz 16. designs, quality materials, and S+U Potsdamer Platz. extravagant details. There are E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; The sixth floor of KaDeWe also clothes by Giorgio Armani, features an extensive food S Hackescher Markt. F3 Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann. com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

court and market, including Wolfen select American products. A Berlin-based brand specializing

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and

in knitwear items for both women and men. All products are made with natural fibers and finished by hand. www.wolfengermany.com. Auguststr. 41. T: 030.49781966. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße.T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

MODEL SASHA MARINI POSES FOR ESTHER PERBANDT'S CAMPAIGN. PHOTO BY BIRGIT KAULFUSS.

A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

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Welche Farbe hat Ihre Liebe? Entdecken Sie 12 einzigartige Niessing Colors. NIESSING BERLIN Stilwerk / KantstraĂ&#x;e 17 niessing.com

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SHOPPING Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe. www.buffalo-shop.de. See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Oakley This store showcases Oakley’s entire assortment, from clothing to accessories, but the focus is on the eyewear, which uses latest technology to cater to the needs of professional sportspeople and amateurs alike. www.oakley.com. Hackesher Markt, Rosenthaler Str. 34. T: 030.23457770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www. volker-lang-accessoires.de. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard. com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and

Take A Peek Founded in 1900 by two Dutch merchants, Peek & Cloppenburg has become synonymous with high-quality fashion at prices that won’t break the budget. Specialist departments are key to the P&C shopping experience, with an unbeatable variety of sizes, cuts, fabrics, and brands. The 300+ clothing brands range from quality high-street names to exclusive designer labels, such as Hugo Boss, Joop!, Desigual, Marc O’Polo, Ralph Lauren, and their own trusted brand. The P&C Weltstadthaus Berlin on Tauentzienstraße also makes for a good sightseeing opportunity for architectural fans. Designed by Nobel Prize winner Gottfried Böhm, the glass façade of the building recalls swinging bells or a dress, which is gathered up the top and tapers out over the sidewalk. Tauentzienstr. 19. T: 0800 5559050. www.peek-cloppenburg.de refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www. homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

KPM Berlin Once upon a time, a king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche

A skin treatment from Babor (right).

Porzellan-Manufaktur was born. KPM Berlin still makes exquisite tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour and shop for beautiful porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3.

BEAUTY & WELLNEES Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Mühle Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles.www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. S Hackescher Markt.E3

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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

LUXURY

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Brands AIGNER

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www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com. Kurfürstendamm 59-60. T: 030.70550770. U Adenauerplatz. B4

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become a fan of ALEXA

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

Make it yours.

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER www.dorothee-schumacher.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 20946099. U Französische Straße. E3

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

for the

label lovers

ETRO www.etro.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946120. U Französische Straße. E3

Designer brands at 30-70% less.*

MCM

more to love, All year round.

www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175-176. T: 030.88910700. U Adenauerplatz. B4

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

SAVE AN EXTRA 10%**

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

designeroutletberlin.com Than RRP. ** Take this page to our information desk to claim. *

www.wheretraveler.com   35 GL1085_0007_SS16_Berlin_Press_Where Berlin_118x124mm_AW.indd 1 22 WB JUNE SHOPPING.indd 35

Client - McAG

Type Area - not given

Outlet - Berlin

Bleed - 3mm

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www.p re m i u m e x h i b i t i o n s . c o m

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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Strawberry Kisses MAIN PHOTO: © ISTOCK PHOTO; STRAWBERRY MARKET: COURTESY OF KARLS ERLEBNIS-DORF

Annabelle Mallia heads straight to the farms for the freshest and best fruit of the season. Being from Australia, where fresh fruit and veggies are grown all year round, it took me some time to get used to the seasonal availability of produce here in Germany. I was dismayed that, come spring, I couldn’t find pumpkin anywhere to make my favorite roasted vegetable salad or that I had to endure a long winter of apples and cabbage. But before long I too was hooked on the intense colors and flavors that would pop up at farmers' markets with each change of season. Summertime in Berlin is smothered in sweet strawberries. Train stations and busy street corners sprout giant, strawberry-shaped stands tempting commuters with freshly picked berries from the fields. The only thing better is plucking them straight off the vines yourself at places such as Berliner Beerengarten (www. berlinerbeerengarten.de), or "berry gardens," located all around the city and in the Brandenburg area. Raspberries and blueberries are also on offer, depending on when you visit. The deal is always the same: The more you pick, the cheaper the price, but you only ever have to

pay for what’s in your basket and not what you’ve eaten along the way. Another such heavenly place is Vierfelderhof (www. vierfelderhof.de), where you can also retreat to the café for a well-deserved break and refreshment after a hard day's work (or perhaps just an hour or so) of picking in the fields, while the kids get an insight into life on the land, visiting the animals and climbing on the tractor and haystacks. At Karls Erlebnis-Dorf (www.karls.de), just

west of Berlin, you can’t pick your own, but you can experience strawberries in all their glory. There are piles of fresh strawberries to buy, jam- and candy-making demonstrations, and a smorgasbord of strawberry-themed products in the store. And when the kids have had their fill of berries, they can head to an adventure playground with a splash pool, petting zoo, maze, and a great potato sack slide while you savor a delicious strawberry cake topped with whipped cream. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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SIGHTSEEING

Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Thermal Springs Oasis Hot springs, mineral-rich muds, jacuzzis... just the sound of the words is enough to conjure up visions of the healing powers of water. There are many aquatic spas and hamams in Berlin, but for entirely natural relaxation, nothing beats the indoor and outdoor pools of Bad Saarow Therme, a 90-minute drive southeast of the capital. Built right next to the Catharinenquelle hot springs, the large thermal complex has three interconnected swimming pools filled with 35-degree-Celsius (95°F) salt water equipped with fountains, whirlpools, currents, water jets, and other aquatic features to keep guests entertained. Visitors can also take breaks from swimming and spend some time floating around the chromo-therapy pool while listening to music underwater, or head upstairs for a sauna or a massage. Now that summer has arrived, it's also worth paying a visit to the Scharmützelsee lake a few hundred meters away from the Therme, a popular destination for lovers of water sports. Am Kurpark 1. T: 0336318680. www.bad-saarow.de both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

Hackesche Höfe

The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere

Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de

THE Berlin Wall

Walter Ulbricht,

New Synagogue

U.S. President

grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Open daily 10am–6pm (to 5pm Fri). Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under-6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

1961 head of the

1963 wishing to

West Germans

1963 John F. Kennedy

1970 dissatisfaction

Economic

1974 Guillaume,

Socialist Unity Party, erects a barbed-wire fence dividing Germany into two parts.

visit the East must obtain a visa from the government.

delivers his “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech at West Berlin’s Rathaus Schöneberg.

grows in East Germany, as food supplies run short; 22 strikes attest to the civil unrest.

aide to West German chancellor Willy Brandt, is arrested as a spy.

Bad saarow therme: clemens franz, wikimedia commons; wall: photo © Berlin wall near ostbahnhof, © estrafalarius, wikimedia commons.

Berliner Dom

Günter

Main moments in the Wall’s 29-year history.

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For more information on the

www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm

East Germany

Ronald Reagan

(weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

pass visit wherepassBERLIN.com

for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauerThe Berlin dialect was gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. influenced by the 111. T: 030.467986666. Huguenots in the 1600s. U Bernauer Straße. E2 French words are still

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the

former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic common in the local history of Nazi forced labor, East Side Gallery parlance. focusing on the central institutions of While West Berliners loved to express the SS and Third Reich police and the their creativity by drawing graffiti and crimes they committed throughout Europe. painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. exhibition grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 topographie.de. countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their U Kochstraße, work, creating what is now known as the East Side S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4 Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Kids & Families

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop

Dismantling of

On 9 November:

Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

1984 boycotts the

1987 gives a speech

1989 the Iron Curtain

1989 Socialist Politbüro

1989 thousands of

By 11pm that night,

1990 October, the city

On the eve of 3

Summer Olympics in Los Angeles.

at Brandenburg Gate demanding that Mikhail Gorbachev “tear down this wall.”

begins as Hungary cuts the barbed wire around its border.

member Schabowski mistakenly tells a press conference the border will be opened immediately.

Berliners have swarmed Wall checkpoints and guards open the borders.

officially celebrates its first German Unity Day with fireworks and bells.

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SIGHTSEEING

Ever dreamed of owning the 25,000-year-old Venus of Willendorf in your living room? Or the 42m(138ft.)-tall Column of Marcus Aurelius in your garden? Although these masterpieces aren't for sale, you can order life-sized replicas of most works found in state museums from around the world. At Gipsformerei, one of the oldest institutions of the city museums, the 7000-strong collection of molds is the largest in the world, and the showroom hosts a rotating selection of high-quality plaster sculptures to view and purchase. Sophie-Charlotten-Str. 17-18. T: 030.3267690. www.smb.museum

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and

the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting

aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdam Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

River Trips Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Tours & GUIDED Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

© Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Maximilian Meisse

The Recasting Of Historical Works

Sanssouci

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WHERE PASS BERLIN AVAILABLE AT ALL S-BAHN BERLIN STATIONS EXPLORING BERLIN?

Get your Unique Pass for Visitors

RT O P ANS R T LIC B U P

Illustration © Shutterstock/Lisa Kolbasa

DE I U G CITY AP M Y CIT NTS U O C DIS

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Berlin As Backdrop Ready for the artistic takeover of the capital, Serene Tseng explores the origins and objectives of the 9th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art. Due to its unique role at the forefront of political change and development in modern history, Berlin has remained a mecca for artists seeking growth and evolution. Many events celebrate the city's artistic importance, and the capital’s multitude of museums, galleries, performance spaces, and art schools is proof of that lasting allure. Perhaps the most important art-centric event is the Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art, established in 1998 as a response to the Venice Biennale. Sometimes described as an experimental event, the Biennale is an "art lab" for both artists and visitors that focuses on Berlin's ability to influence the art world both inside and out, while embodying the free spirit of the capital. Every two years, the Biennale explores the artistic development of younger and more obscure contemporary artists, whose work is shown at venues chosen by the edition's curators. This year's curation panel, New York art

Landwehr canal and the Blue Star sightseeing boat by Reederei Riedel, turned into a moving contemporary art gallery that will follow the popular tour boat routes on the Spree. The settings are diverse and dynamic, and aim to enhance the exhibitions they host. The 9th edition of the Biennale focuses on themes closely linked to technology and encompassing various topics, from the implications of universal connectivity to micro-trends, new forms of exhibition design, climate wars and geopolitics, as well as content and form in the age of internet. Berlin's three-month-long event is a reflection of the curators' view of society, and the incorporation of various locations in the city collective DIS, have assembled both stationary and mobile works for exhibition at locations ranging from the glass-fronted Akademie der Künste on Pariser Platz, with its artistic legacy, to the Feuerle Collection WWII bunker on the

creates a giant gallery space that invites a dialogue between artists, viewers, and curators with Berlin and its inhabitants. 4 June to 18 September. www. bb9.berlinbiennale.de.

bb9_oculus_balcony_ADK_courtesy berlin biennale for contemporary art 9.. Berlin Biennale für zeitgenössische Kunst / 9th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art 4.6.–18.9.2016 Courtesy Berlin Biennale für zeitgenössische Kunst. Looking at Art (IX Crate), 2016. Photo Natasha Goldenberg, 3D design Filip Setmanuk Courtesy Berlin Biennale für zeitgenössische Kunst / for Contemporary Art

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

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Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 17 Jul: August Kopisch – Painter, Poet, Discoverer, Inventor commemorates interdisciplinary artist Kopisch’s work as a painter, poet, and engineer. To 31 Jul: Images and Studies from the Copenhagen Academy of Painting featuring landscapes and figure studies from the rigorous Danish school of painting. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum

the first time in Europe, a collection of superheroes and comic book characters falling within the LGBTI spectrum. To 30 Jun: Ken. To be destroyed tells the story of Ken and Hazel Houston’s relationship through letters and photographs. To 18 Sep: Millionaires can be trans* // You are so brave* explores parallel themes of success narratives of trans individuals and the cisgender-centric notion of equating being trans with bravery. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum. de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Courtesy Berlin Biennale für zeitgenössische Kunst / for Contemporary Art

Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 31 Jul: Sticky Messages – Antisemitic and Racist Stickers from 1880 to the present tells the story of prejudice through the medium of adhesives. To 14 Aug: Relics of the Cold War. Photographs by Martin Roemers. To 16 Oct: Multicultural. Germany, a Country of Immigration follows the historical migration movements into Germany, from the quest workers of the 1960s up to the refugees of today. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 26 Jun: SuperQueeroes presents, for

permanen

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 31 Jul: NO COMPROMISES! Dedicated

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the to the controversial art of NO! and its artist Boris Lurie. museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www. Ihne in 1904. To 15 Oct: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4 region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu Kupferstichkabinett until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. MUST SEE With a collection €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am begun in 1652 by the Great Elector Kupfergraben. Berlin has more and works dating back to medieval T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, museums than times, the institute known in English S Hackescher Markt. E3 rainy days as the Museum of Prints and Drawings per year. Bröhan-Museum boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan Goya. To 25 Sep: We're off then! Travel pictures amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco from from Albrecht Dürer to Olafur Eliasson. Tue–Fri objects and various paintings from the Berlin 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb. Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 from this fascinating artistic period. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. Martin-Gropius-Bau 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3 MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and

DDR Museum

l museum Internatiotna exhibition (worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Museums

pass visit wherepassBERLIN.com

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until August, 31st 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Take a walk though

Berlin’s history

photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 6 Jun: Günter Brus. Zones of Disruption. Features the Austrian artist’s complete work in the Actionism movement. To 12 Jun: Lee Miller – Photographs reveals the full range and oeuvre of Miller’s artistry.. To 21 Aug: NO, IT IS!: Artist William Kentridge shows his hybrid performance pieces and visual artwork in a political narration. Wed–Mon

10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www. gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 5 Jun: A Photo Rarely Stands Alone; Pairs, sequences, and series of

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www.spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Art galleries Berlinische Galerie

In 1914, inspiration from the single creative force of Paul Scheerbart, with his fantastical concepts for colored glass buildings, laid the foundation and vision for the Glass Chain art movement. The movement’s founding contributors, Bruno Taut and Paul Goesch, were both architects who whose artistry extended into the realm of fantasy drawings. Such vivid visions of crystal grottoes and castles in the air, modeled after the pursuit of utopia, defined the Glass Chain. The utopian vision was innovative in the time of the young Weimar Republic as the economy struggled to stand on its own after the end of WWI. Modern Visionaries, showing at the Berlinische Galerie (this page), is the union of evocative watercolors, drawings, and texts by the three main contributors to the movement. Until 31 Oct. www.berlinischegalerie.de people, architecture, and experiments. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Since December 2015, the museum also hosts the first original T-Rex skeleton in Europe. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until

the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 30 Jun: Death in Naples – 125th Anniversary of the Death of Heinrich Schliemann pays homage to the archaeologist and excavator. To 3 Jul: Beards: between Nature and Razor explores the significance of beards throughout history and Berliners' fascination with facial hair. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 24 Jul: Words to read, Words to feel is an introduction to the history, handwriting, and words of the Koran. www.smb.

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 10 Jul: Borrowed Light questions the authority of architecture and the structures that surround ous on a daily basis. To 10 Jul: Hans-Peter Feldmann a retrospective of 250 words in celebration of the artist's 75th birthday. To 4 Sep: Allure is a collection of photographs centering around the theme of allure and elegance. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www. co-berlin.org.Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank

Museum-Berlin_Visionaere_Paul-Goesch_Kopf-mit-Farbteilung. courtesy of berlinische galerie.

Chain Reaction

A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Jul: Heidi Specker – In Front of. Photographs 2005/2015, Beckmann and Berlin examines the relationship between photographer and sitter. To 22 Aug: Erwin Wurm – Bei Mutti pushes the boundaries between sculpture, object, and performance, inviting visitors to integrate themselves into the artist’s work. To 31 Oct: Modern Visionaries features the utopian paintings and drawings of members of the Glass Chain artistic movement. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

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Museum-Berlin_Visionaere_Paul-Goesch_Kopf-mit-Farbteilung. courtesy of berlinische galerie.

pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 3 Jul: Basim Magdy: The Stars Were Aligned for a Century of New Beginnings is the Egyptian multimedia artist’s first solo exhibition, investigating and challenging ideologies and utopias. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutschebank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele 12 March – 6 June 2016

Günter Brus Zones of Disruption 19 March – 12 June 2016

Lee Miller Photographs

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

9. April – 26. June 2016

Isa Genzken: Make Yourself Pretty!

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of

European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 31 Jul: Hanns Kunitzberger takes up temporary residence at the Gemäldegalerie. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

12 April – 7 August 2016

Maya – Language of Beauty 12 May – 21 August 2016

NO IT IS ! William Kentridge

Exhibitions / Performances / Lectures

11 June – 18 September 2016

Hamburger Bahnhof

Thomas Struth

www.gropiusbau.de

Nature & Politics The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the 1 July – 3 October 2016 many temporary exhibitions focus on painting Photographs and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 10 Jun: Gülsün Karamustafa. Chronographia presents Karamustafa’s highly influential works, in which she addresses Niederkirchnerstraße 7, 10963 Berlin, T +49 30 254 86 0 issues of migration, politically-enforced nomadism, Wed – Mon 10am – 7pm, closed Tue feminism, gender, and Western regard of the Near Online-tickets: www.gropiusbau.de Admission free up to the age of 16 East. To 31 Jul: Neue Galerie: The Black Years. Works from the Neue Nationalgalerie created between 1933-1945, incl. Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. MGB16-05_Anz_whereBerlin_118x124mm__RZ.indd 1 T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Berenice Abbott

The Network

11.05.2016 10:34:38

People, Cables, Data Streams

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www. me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. To 21 Jun: With New Eyes. Surreal Worlds features the works of major Surrealists and their forerunners. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries

A new exhibition about the networked world For explorers!

C&K Galerie, 4 Apr to 9 Jul: Andreas Amrhein: The kids are all right. Joachimstr. 17. www. cundkgalerie.de; Galerie Michael Schultz, 25 Jun to 16 Jul: Lu Feng: New Works. Mommsenstr. 34. www.galerie-schultz.de; Stella A. Galerie / Edition, 24 Jun to 6 Aug: Gabriele Jerke. Gipsstr. 4. www.stella-a.de; Galerie Friedmann-Hahn, 9 Jun to 16 Jul: Maximilian Verhas: Sculptures in motion. Wielandstr. 14. www.galeriefriedmannhahn.com; Janinebeangallery, 11 Jun to 13 Aug: Anya Janssen: Retroactive. Torstr. 154. www. janinebeangallery.com.

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Left: crisp duck with seared quince. Right: variations on regional carrot. Inset: Chef Micha Schäffer (left) and sommelier Billy Wagner (right), the makers of Nobelhart & Schmutzig.

Eating Like A Local In recent years, a new adjective has entered our culinary vocabulary: locavore, meaning food that strives to be as based as possible on local, and usually seasonal, ingredients. Besides the clear environmental benefits of consuming locally grown food rather than shipping it halfway around the globe, it’s also a matter of taste: the local stuff is fresher and just tastes so much better. As the summer season gets underway, now is the time when the local produce is really starting to get good. This is giving the team at Nobelhart & Schmutzig, where the culinary concept is described as “brutally local,” an exciting array of things to work with (Friedrichstr. 218, www. nobelhartundschmutzig.com). Though the restaurant only opened at the beginning of last year, by November it had already been awarded a coveted Michelin star. So serious is the locavore commitment that even staples like lemons, pepper, and olive oil are taboo,

replaced instead with such diverse local options as root vegetables, willow branches, eel and char from regional lakes and rivers, and even flower pollen, which the chefs conjure into intricate 10-course tasting menus. Traditional techniques like fermentation, pickling, and salting help preserve produce and extend their life in the kitchen. Creative use of regional bounty is also the manifesto at Lokal, a chic bistro in Mitte with cool white walls and rustic wooden tables (Linienstr. 160, www.lokal-berlinmitte. de). The vibe is low-key hip and the cuisine is equally understated, putting a creative twist on homey German cooking. Lots of regional meat, game, fish, and offal feature on the regularly changing menu, though vegetarians will also find much to savor. The chef gets

experimental with such diverse local produce as dandelion, purslane, salsify, chervil root, and rosehips, with delicious results. To really get up close and personal with what you eat, head to Neukölln to pay a visit to Café Botanico (Richardstr. 100, www.cafe-botanico.de). The café itself is cozy and inviting, but the main attraction is the courtyard garden, which is the only permaculture garden in Berlin with organic certification. More than 200 edibles grow in this lush space, a mix of exotic and wild herbs and rare, heirloom vegetable varieties that, whenever possible, are used in the dishes that the café serves. To get a taste of the freshest garden bounty, try a mixed salad of leafy greens or a bowl of minestrone soup made with whatever’s in season.

upper left and inset: © marko seifert photography. upper right: © caroline prange.

To enjoy the freshest tastes of the season, Hilda Hoy looks for restaurants that specialize in using local produce and ingredients.

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DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil

Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a

reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www. restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of . equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

upper left and inset: © marko seifert photography. upper right: © caroline prange.

Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor

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DINING www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Restaurant Le Faubourg

It’s no secret that local Berliner palates are not especially daring when it comes to spice, and fans of mouth-tingling, chili-laden Indian cuisine usually find their cravings unfulfilled. Kicking it up a notch in a city of ho-hum curries is Chutnify, a casual and colorful Prenzlauer Berg eatery specializing in the food of South India, the dosa in particular. This thin, crisp crepe made of rice and lentil batter is rolled up burrito-style around a variety of saucy, savory fillings, then dressed up with chutneys ranging from mild to adventurously hot. You can’t go wrong with the classic masala dosa, a stew of aromatic spiced potatoes, though available variations also include chargrilled tandoori chicken, spicy pork à la Goa, and a vegetarian option with seared chunks of Indian paneer cheese. To quell the fire in your mouth, sip on a cardamom-spiced lassi or the less traditional tamarind margarita. Sredzkistr. 43. T: 030.44010795. www.chutnify.com

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon.

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-

stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Kreuzberg Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city.

courtesy of chutnify

Bring On The Spice

Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a stylish interior alongside classic and updated French cuisine. Inside Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for a posh business lunch or romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters tempts as much as the sumptuous mains and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

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The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler & Klatt

FEAST

A SPECIAL HIGHLIGHT, NOT ONLY FOR GOURMETS. CREATIVE. UPSCALE. CASUAL.

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy,

post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN OPEN: MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM 11.30 AM TO 11 PM +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY

WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM

Mitte AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq. de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Cookies Cream courtesy of chutnify

Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3 www.wheretraveler.com   49

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DINING The Grand

Katjes Café Grün-Ohr

Lucky Leek

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins

Café. TIt’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop

reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2

and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshsqueezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €.Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.katjes.de. F2

Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Grill Royal

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more

German/French. A beloved

than sightseeing. Thanks to the destination of Mitte’s culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also German bread is among well-dressed creative scenesters. a fine dining destination. On the roof the best in the world, There’s more to the menu than just of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts and there are some 600 grilled meat, though the steaks are splendid views and refined, modern varieties from which indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, German cuisine. Advance reservations to choose. ceviche, and oysters are just a few required. Due to security precautions, other additions to the fine menu. €€€. each guest must provide official photo Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost105b. T: 030.28879288. kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U S Friedrichstraße. E3 Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Nante Eck

German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. S+U Friedrichstraße, U Französische Straße. F2

PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is

raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

SCHÖNEBERG Café Aroma Italian. A long-standing neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

TIERGARTEN Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can sit in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or by the fireplace in winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

A Berlin Rite Of Summer When the Waldbühne amphitheater opened in conjunction with the 1936 Olympics, architect Werner March anticipated the 22,000-seat setting would be used mainly for sporting events, with the occasional theater performance and opera thrown in for good measure. For decades after World War II, the venue’s use varied greatly, sometimes serving as a venue for prestigious Berlinale film festival screenings, sometimes lying barren and in disrepair. Today, the Greek-style theater, which benefits from the acoustics of the natural basin in which it was built, is as worldrenowned for its rock and classical performances as it is beloved by Berliners, who often come armed with picnic baskets to fully enjoy a summer evening out of doors. This season’s program offers the varied assortment of performances that has made the venue a summer favorite with Berliners of

all ages and backgrounds. By far the biggest name on the roster is Paul McCartney, whose One on One tour lands on 14 June. Reviews from the first leg of the tour are reporting a setlist with a whopping 35 songs spanning all eras of the former Beatle’s career, so settle in for a journey through nostalgia. The Waldbühne’s program offers several opportunities to get better acquainted with contemporary German tunes. On 4 June, the touring Schlagernacht des Jahres (www. schlagernacht.de) brings its annual parade of German pop stars, including perennial favorite Andrea Berg and Beatrice Egli, a past winner of the German version of the Idol franchise. As the name suggests, the concert celebrates the schlager genre, a pop-music style familiar to Eurovision fans around the globe. Then on 7 June, living legend Herbert Grönemeyer, virtually unknown outside the Germanspeaking world, hits the stage with his

contemporary rock classics. He was not only the first non-English-speaking artist to be invited to perform on MTV’s Unplugged, he also holds claim to the first and third best-selling records in German history. At the all-day Peace x Peace Festival (6 June), Berlin punk-rockers the Beatsteaks take to the stage, along with Seeed and others, to support relief for refugee children. Fans of Black Sabbath can hope that new seats are released for the sold-out show on June 8, while classical music fans can revel in some of Dvorak’s greatest hits (p. 8) on 26 June, when Yannick Nézet-Séguin leads the Berliner Philharmoniker. Later in the summer finds Sting (1 Aug), Neil Young (21 July), Disney in Concert (2 July), and two nights (8-9 July) of Berlin’s own hard-rockers, Rammstein. For a complete schedule, visit www.waldbuehne-berlin.de.

paUL MC CARTNEY: COURTESY OF PROMOTION.

Jenna Rose Robbins rounds up the June highlights at the Waldbühne, the outdoor venue featuring some of the biggest names of the season.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

BALLET & OPERA

staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 3 Jun: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 4, 8, 11, 16 Jun: Il Trovatore (Verdi). 5, 12, 18 Jun: Tristan und Isolde (Wagner). 9, 15 Jun: Tosca (Puccini). 17, 22, 25, 28 Jun: Die Entführung aus dem Serail (Mozart). 23, 26 Jun: Elektra (Strauss). 24, 30 Jun: Rigoletto (Verdi). www. deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 2, 7, 10, 14, 18 Jun: Juliette. 12, 27 Jun: Die Walküre (Wagner). 5 Jun: Birthday Concert for Martha Argerich. 11, 25 Jun: Das Rheingold (Wagner). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Barenboim is not just one of the world’s most acclaimed Beethoven interpreters, he’s also the director of the Staatsoper.

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 4 Jun: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 12, 16, 19, 26, 29 Jun: Cendrillon (Massenet). 15, 18, 28 Jun: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 22, 25, 30 Jun: Castor and Pollux (Rameau). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3, 13, 27 Jun: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness at Komische Oper Berlin. 4, 23: Duato Kylián, at Staatsoper in Schiller Theater. 10, 19 Jun: Jewels at Komische Oper Berlin. 21, 29 Jun: Sleeping Beauty at Komische Oper Berlin. www.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

ON THIS MONTH THEATER & MUSICALS BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

HINTERM HORIZONT Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz, all month

ROOTS Chamäleon Theater, all month

THE WYLD Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

Berliner Dom

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. 1 Jun: Slow Listening. 3, 7 Jun: Oboe concerts. 12, 13 Jun: Double bass recitals. 16, 28 Jun: Violin recitals. 19, 26 Jun: Viola recitals. www. hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

The Waldbühne

POP, ROCK & JAZZ MUSE Mercedes-Benz Arena, 3 June

PEACE X PEACE FESTIVAL Waldbühne, 5 June

5 SECONDS OF SUMMER Mercedes-Benz-Arena, 6 June

DEFTONES FETE DE LA MUSIQUE: PHOTO BY DOMINIK BUTZMANN. WALDBÜHNE: © SEBASTIAN GREUNER.

Coumbiahalle, 6 June

CYPRESS HILL Spandau Citadel, 13 June

BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN Olympiastadion, 19 June

PJ HARVEY Spandau Citadel, 20 June

MEGADETH Huxleys Neue Welt, 22 June

EDITORS

Worldwide Harmonies What began more than a quarter century ago in France has spread to all corners of the globe, with more than 120 countries now celebrating Fête de la Musique, also known as World Music Day. The musical celebration, which coincides with the summer equinox, sees cities around the world offering free acoustic concerts in outdoor spaces. The majority of the action takes place from 4–10pm, and although musicians are technically required to obtain permits, this is after all Berlin, so don’t be surprised should you come across troubadours performing at all hours of the day, in all corners of the city. Musical hubs this year are expected to be on Unter den Linden, around Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, at the stage at Mauerpark, in Spandau’s Old Town, and along many main stretches in Friedrichshain. 21 June. www.fetedelamusique.de

Spandau Citadel, 28 June

COLDPLAY Olympiastadion, 29 June

BALLET & CLASSICAL ANDRAS SCHIFF Konzerthaus Berlin, 28 June

DON GIOVANNI Komische Oper, 4 June

RIGOLETTO Deutsche Oper Berlin, 24 June

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ENTERTAINMENT

5 Seconds Of Summer After first attracting notice on YouTube, then accumulating a sizable fanbase on Facebook and Twitter, Australia’s 5 Seconds of Summer landed the gig that would launch their career: opening for teen sensation One Direction. The quartet has since developed a persona that has helped differentiate it from the notorious X Factor band, copping a decidedly punk look and sound, compared to the more clean-cut 1D. 5SOS (that’s “five sauce” to true fans) have also made music history, becoming the first band to have their first two albums hit No. 1 – a coup they’re hoping will help propel them out of boy-band-dom and into the leagues of other “legit” music acts. When the boys hit Berlin on their second headlining tour, expect plenty of punk-pop hits – and shrieking star-struck teens. 6 June. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 7 Jun: Accademia Bizantina and Ottavio Dantone perform Handel. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus

Elgar and Beethoven. 16–18 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) and Emanuel Ax (piano) perform Debussy, Franck, Ravel, and Varèse. 22, 23 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Yannick Nézét-Séguin) with Lisa Batiashvili (violin) perform Bartok and Shostakovich. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20ththeater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other century classical works under the lead of Marek orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with 2–4 Jun: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin its 103 members has won a place in the top (cond. Nathalie Stutzmann) and Pulippe tier of European concert orchestras. Jaroussky perform Pergolesi. 10–12 www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: Jun: The Konzerthausorchester 030.20298715. Berlin (cond. Dimitrij Kitajenko) performs Mussorgsky. 13–15 Berlin is home to three Jun: Akademie für Alte Musik opera houses: the Deutsche Berlin performs Scarlatti, Vivaldi, Oper, the Staatsoper am Pergolesi, and Bach. 28 Jun: Schiller Theater, and the Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Daniel Komische Oper. Barenboim) and András Schiff Dock 11 Studios & Eden perform Widmann, Bartok, and Avant-garde dance shows and Beethoven. contemporary performances inside an old www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 one in Pankow. 3-5 Jun: NoBody’s Land at DOCK

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 2–4 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. John Elliot Gardiner) performs Stravinski. 4 Jun: Members of the Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Debussy and de Falla. 8–10 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) and Zimerman (piano) perform

11. 9-12 Jun: H.K. – Quintett at DOCK 11. 25 Jun: Dance and Music Improvisation at DOCK 11. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10;

5 seconds of summer: photo by tom van schelven.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

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Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Radialsystem V

Rock, Pop, Jazz

Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de

A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. 4, 5 Jun: Hip Hop Convention 2016. 28–30 Jun: Seek – Contemporary Fashion Trade Show. www. arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 6 Jun: FloRida. www.columbia-theater.de.

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

courtesy of michael jackson – the symphony experience.

Now: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!

The King Of Pop Goes Classic There’ve been many tributes to Michael Jackson since his untimely passing seven years ago, but Michael Jackson — The Symphony Experience does more than just pay homage. Says creator Sebastiao Pembele, “We want to reawaken the uniqueness and emotional depth of the ‘King of Pop’ so that his legend can live on.” To manage this feat, the performance features no less than a 70-piece orchestra and band performing the Gloved One’s greatest hits, accompanied by German performers such as musician Nic Donet and actor Rino Galiano. The Berlin performance marks the show’s premiere. Premium tickets – including exclusive seating, buffet, and drinks – available. 10 June. Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More Info and tickets at cinestar.de

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ENTERTAINMENT Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 3 Jun: MUSE. 6 Jun: 5 Seconds of Summer. 10 Jun: Michael Jackson – The Symphony Experience. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin. de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. 4 Jun: Soul Explosion. 7 Jun: Kreuzberg Slam. 8 Jun: Drive Like Jehu. 9 Jun: Autolux in concert. 11 Jun: Balkanbeats in concert. 18 Jun: Paranoid in concert. 23 Jun: Wild Nothing in concert. 24 Jun: 20 Jahre Karreraklub.

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 27 Jun: Sean Paul. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Waldbühne An outdoor arena for the biggest classical and rock concerts. See p. 52 for events. www.waldbuehneberlin.de. Am Glockenturm. Tickets T: 01806.570070. S Olympiastadion + bus. Off Map

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

All Ready For Kick-Off!

Check out our favorite places to watch the UEFA EURO 2016 games (www.uefa.com), starting on 10 June with France vs. Romania:

ON THE PLATZ Watch your team while you savor a pizza, or even just a plate of falafel. Many an al fresco dining area have set up with TVs, so spectators can cheer on their favourite teams while dining. Just head to squares like Winterfeldtplatz, Kollwitzplatz, or Savignyplatz to experience this surround-sound atmosphere.

© ISTOCK

AT THE PUB Numerous bars and clubs will be offering public screenings. We recommend the terrace at the Irish Harp Pub (www.harp-pub.de) in Charlottenburg, the Brachvogel beer garden (www.brachvogel-berlin.de) on the Kreuzberg canal, and Die Berliner Republik (www.die-berlinerrepublik.de) near Friedrichstraße.

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© ISTOCK

Bimah, the Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but there are frequent Yiddish song performances. Check website for info. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstrasse. E3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: ROOTS , a new circus performance by Cirk La Putyka. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. 29 Jun: Strictly Stand Up (English Comedy Night). www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The best events in town

Beyond the Horizon The 1800-seat Theater Potsdamer Platz designed by Renzo Piano presents Beyond the Horizon, a musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www. stage-entertainment.de. Theater am Potsdamer Platz Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 9-19, 21-30 Jun: The 12 Tenors (Greatest Hits). 20 Jun: Gustav Peter Wöhler Band (Shake a little). www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.

Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3 An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Volksbühne

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

In Search Of The Green Fairy Forget everything you think you know about absinthe: You’re not going to experience grand hallucinations, no matter what you learned from reading Oscar Wilde, Ernest Hemingway, and Arthur Rimbaud. “Absinthe leaves your head clear. You don’t get tired like you do with alcohol,” said Hermann Plöckl, owner of Absinthe Depot (Weinmeisterstr. 4, www.absinth-berlin.de). At the Mitte shop-cum-bar, which carries upwards of 300 varieties of the anise-flavored alcohol, I learn that setting fire to absinthe is anathema to true connoisseurs, that this is a relatively new gimmick introduced purely to heighten the presentation, not the taste. According to Plöckl, the banning of absinthe in the early 1900s only served to bolster its desirability, magnifying its aura of mystery and bohemian association. It didn’t hurt that the spirit had a reputation as a hallucinogen, a point long since debunked. The 45 to 70 percent alcohol content, on the other hand,

veritable wonderland of alcohol, or can knock the socks off even the most Unterhaltungschemie (“entertainment seasoned drinker. chemistry”), as he calls it. Science beakers Over at Lauschangriff (Rigaer Str. 103, www. bubble behind the bar, where patrons can facebook.com/Lauschangriff.Berlin), the art of sample both brand-name and absinthe service is still revered. The house-made absinthes and other upstairs bar, dotted with liqueurs. Tom serves my drink, Beetlejuice-inspired décor, serves complete with sugar cube 23 different brands of the and spoon, atop a glassgreen stuff, both straight and covered, still-inhabited coffin. mixed in cocktails. A customer But even that seems banal favorite is the Voodoo Pigalle compared to what comes – which co-owner Dieter next: a perfect scoop of describes as “a light and Tom Zyankali absinthe-colada ice cream, just unexpected” concoction of one of Zyankali’s seasonal flavors. chartreuse, watermelon juice, lemon, For those who are merely absintheand, of course, absinthe. The taste is so curious, you can find the occasional absinthe refreshing that I’m shocked to learn the drink drink on the menus of several Berlin bars, contains 40 percent alcohol. The atmosphere is decidedly more playful, yet including the so-trendy-it-hurts Becketts Kopf (Pappelallee 64, www.becketts-kopf.de), still appreciative, at Kreuzberg’s laboratorywhose ever-changing menu always seems to themed Zyankali (Gneisenaustr. 17, www. find room for at least one wormwoodzyankali.de). Former biochemical engineer infused creation. and owner Tom Zyankali has created a

© ISTOCK PHOTO; INSET: PHOTO BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS.

Few alcoholic beverages have been as vilified and mythologized as absinthe. Jenna Rose Robbins went on a citywide odyssey to learn why the much-maligned spirit is experiencing a comeback.

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Beer Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Casinos

selected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Gretchen The DJs play funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this international and eclectic Kreuzberg club. Occasional live concerts. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. T: 030.25922702. U Mehringdamm, U Hallesches Tor. E4

Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.weekend-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern

Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Clubs Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Amber Suite This fun club for over-27s is the perfect place to socialize while dancing and drinking. There are two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609. U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map © becketts kopf

© ISTOCK PHOTO; INSET: PHOTO BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS.

NIGHTLIFE

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultra-

Becketts Kopf in Mitte (Pappelallee 64, www.becketts-kopf.de) is one of Berlin's most popular bars for experimental cocktails and absinthe. www.wheretraveler.com   59

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NIGHTLIFE

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bebel Bar and Velvet Room The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer. 9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www. hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242. T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

The Oscar Wilde Irish Pub The first Irish pub in Mitte, offering classics like Kilkenny and Guinness. Big screen for sporting events. Daily 10am-3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www. oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Friedrichstr. 112a. T: 030.2828166. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café Eat, drink, and be merry. It’s all possible at this 24hour spot, which combines a surprisingly elegant interior with an unpretentious atmosphere. Latenight kitchen and an affordable – not to mention exhaustive – cocktail menu. 24h daily except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and an elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. The Potsdamer Platz-adjacent bar attracts those seeking to enjoy an expertly mixed drink in a sophisticated setting. Daily 6:30pm–3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, centuryold dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Gretchen The Kreuzberg club is known for its international crowd and eclectic DJs, who spin funk, hip hop, drum & bass, and electronica. Occasional concerts. Fri & Sat. www.gretchenclub.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. T: 030.25922702. U Mehringdamm, U Hallesches Tor. E4

Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano

Le Croco Bleu Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable.

For a journey back in time, visit Reingold (www.reingold.de), a cocktail bar in 1920s style.

bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves. de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

The Roses Berlin Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to disco, electro, and techno. www. soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed– Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4 ISTOCK

interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

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THE GUIDE | ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

ASK THE CONCIERGE

CLASSIC OPEN AIR: PHOTO BY DAVIDS; BREAKFAST: COURTESY OF ANNA BLUME; CAFE AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE.

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Hatem Ferjani, concierge at the Berlin Marriott Hotel, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does a perfect day look like for you? I love to start my day with breakfast at Schönbrunn (www.schoenbrunn.net) in Friedrichshain. After that, I would go on a tour of the city, starting at Alexanderplatz and Nikolaiviertel, passing by Museum Island. I would then go to Gendarmenmarkt and to my favorite store, Fassbender und Rausch, for some delicious chocolate specialties. Refreshed, I would continue on to Galeries Lafayette on Friedrichstraße to find out about the latest fashion trends. In the evening, I would have dinner at Nu Eat (www. nueatkitchen.de) on Rosenthaler Straße. When you have visitors, where do you take them? I recommend visiting the Gardens of the World in Marzahn: It makes for a great day out for young and old. I also like taking my guests on a boat ride through the government quarter, followed by a sunset dinner at the top of the TV tower (www.tv-turm.de) with a great view over Berlin. Secret Berlin tips? The colorful Anne Blume café and florist on Kollwitzplatz.

Describe Berlin in three words. Multicultural, historic, modern. What do you do after work? I like to go have dinner at Centolire on Leipziger Platz. Which event do you recommend in June? Berlin is an eventful city. In June, highlights are the Komische Oper Festival from 4 to 10 June, and the Classic Open Air concerts at Gendarmenmarkt from 21 to 26 June. Where is the coziest spot in Berlin? In spring and summer, I like to sit with friends at the Café am Neuen See (www. cafeamneuensee.de) in Tiergarten. What distinguishes Berlin from other cities? Berlin is Berlin, with heart and Schnauze (rude attitude), and always full of surprises. Do you know a romantic place in Berlin? The waterfall at Victoria Park in Kreuzberg, the highest natural elevation in the center of Berlin. Images: Clockwise from top: the Classic Open Air festival at Gendarmenmarkt; Café am Neuen See; breakfast at Anna Blume.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for www.wheretraveler.com 61

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ESSENTIALS €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €30.

Statio of t n monthhe

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike:

www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com.

T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. Toll number: 0180.6003690

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services

Friedrichstraße is a bustling station at the junction of the north-south U6 line and the east-west S-Bahn lines. It was a major commuter hub ever since opening in the 1880s, but during the Cold War it took on new significance. Several lines traveling through the station belonged to West Berlin, and only looped through Friedrichstraße before returning to Western territory. The station’s border checkpoint, where West Berlin visitors had to say goodbye to family and friends trapped in the East, became known as the Tränenpalast, or Palace of Tears. Today, the hall hosts a free exhibition

Real Estate Agencies Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, entire buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr. 34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Allianz

Guthmann Estate

Ad Hoc Immobilien

Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com. Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Berlin Capital Investments Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Visit website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com. T: 030.52009700.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques

Berlin Yield Estate

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients and provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Berlin Hyp Immobilien Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Banks and Foreign Exchange

Engel & Voelkers

Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16. T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren Covers a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offers rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30. T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide. Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de. Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22. T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

IST TOUCROUNT DIS PASS

Where Pass Berlin

The city of Berlin is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass Berlin makes experiencing the city convenient and hassle-free for travelers. Users of the Where Pass Berlin are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, gain discounted access to top attractions, and find valuable information in the included Berlin guidebook. Immerse yourself in everything Berlin has to offer with the Where Pass Berlin– visit www.wherepassberlin.com for details.

ISTOCK

Public Ferries

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Where now | Sissi chen

Sissi Chen [Food Blogger]

Born in Beijing and raised in Vienna, Chen works in advertising by day but spends much of her free time eating her way through Berlin’s food scene and blogging about it for her growing fan base – she has over 11,000 followers (and counting) on Instagram. For her reviews of the city's best eats, visit www.eatinginberlin.com, or follow her on Instagram @ eatinginberlin for near-daily food pics around town.

What drives you to blog about Berlin’s restaurants? I’m not just looking for the best places when it comes to quality and interior, I also want to show culturally interesting places to experience. It’s very rewarding to see people open up to new types of food, because they experience new people and cultures. What do you find inspiring about the city? Berlin is a thrilling capital that is neither too crowded nor too small. I love the openness, the guts for fresh ideas, and the welcoming vibe towards newcomers. What part of the city do you call home? When I moved here, I had no clue, but I luckily found a super nice place in Prenzlauer Berg. I’ve moved eight or nine times but have never lived in any other district. I appreciate the quietness and cleanness of my neighborhood. What’s something about the food scene here that might surprise first-timers? Berlin’s food scene is pretty young but has been growing rapidly, and people are often surprised how much choice there is. Besides restaurants, Berlin has also embraced different food concepts such as pop-up dinners, street food markets, and food and music events, such as Burgers & Hip Hop.

If you had visitors, where would you take them for a fancier dinner? Last year, my boyfriend’s parents visited and we had dinner at Solar, a 16th-floor restaurant with a sky bar above. It’s a combination of top-notch food with an amazing panoramic view (Stresemannstr. 76, www. solarberlin.com). I loved every bite of our beef tartare and risotto with salsiccia and burrata cheese. I remember the dessert best: exquisite fluffy cheesecake foam with mint ice cream underneath, topped with chocolate and figs. Imagine one of your coolest friends is here for a visit – where would you take them? From spring to autumn, the must-see food place is Preußenpark in Wilmersdorf, where Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, and Chinese vendors sell some of the best Asian food. It looks like a huge picnic with super-tasty dishes like papaya salad, Korean chicken wings, and dumplings. Imagine it’s beautiful outside and you have the day off. How would you spend it? I’d sleep in, then get dressed and head to a nearby Vietnamese restaurant called Umami

(Knaackstr. 16) for fresh coconut water slurped out of a coconut. After that, I would walk to one of my favorite brunch places, Suicide Sue (Dunckerstr. 2), for maple syrup pancakes with bacon and the “Mafia Stulle,” homemade bread topped with tuna, cheese, salami, and pepperoni. I love to walk, so I would stroll to Mitte for a genmaicha tea at Mamecha, a cute Japanese café (Mulackstr. 33). Next, Maybachufer in Kreuzberg, where there’s a huge Turkish market Tuesdays and Fridays with fresh pomegranate juice, grilled fish, and Mediterranean snacks. It’s one of the most exciting markets in Berlin. I’d then make my way to Camera Work (Kantstr. 149), a fantastic gallery in a Charlottenburg courtyard. They show great contemporary photography from influencers like Diane Arbus and Irving Penn. For dinner, I’d meet friends for Chinese food at Asia Deli (Seestr. 41). Make sure to order from the red menu. And to end my perfect day, I’d have some wine at Sorsi e Morsi (Marienburger Str. 10). Clockwise from top left: Prenzlauer Berg; Sissi Chen; Genmaicha tea; The Camera Work gallery; A dish from Asia Deli; Thai food at the Thaiwiese.

facades: ©istock photo; sissi chen: courtesy of sissi chen; Genmaicha: © istock photo; camera work: courtesy of camera work; Asia deli: courtesy of sissi chen; thaiwiese: courtesy of sissi chen.

My Perfect Day

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