Where Magazin Juli 2016 by Where Berlin/ DINAMIX Media GmbH

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Berlin

CONTENTS

07.16 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

8 Hot Dates

Urban goes mainstream with a mix-match of current trends, designer items, and attitude.

This month is filled to the brim with open-air concerts and outdoor festivals.

SIGHTSEEING

Weekend getaways like Renaissance towns, sandy beaches, and maze-like canals.

Martin Roemers' Relics of the Cold War at Deutsches Historisches Museum. DINING

XXis the season for eating This al fresco and enjoying Berlin's ongoing infatuation with street food.

20 66 My Berlin

Berlin

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

BY HILDA HOY

BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS

16 From Istanbul With Love

20 Sunny Days

No need to go far for the sensational tastes and colors of Turkey. BY HILDA HOY

NIGHTLIFE

The reputation of German wine is on the rise.

Beachy-keen for a sandy oasis? Welcome to Berlin, the city of beach bars.

Sun, oh glorious sun! Our picks for soaking in the rays this summer.

ESSENTIALS

BY CLAUDIA KOKSCH AND

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

MEHTAP SERT

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POTSDAMER PL.

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

The Where Pass provides visitors with exceptional discounts to the city’s must-see attractions with integrated transport ticket and an informative city guidebook. Visiting Berlin has never been more convenient. See wherepassberlin.com for more details

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Culinary master Tim Raue on his city's gourmet scene

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STAR CHEF

THE FOOD ISSUE

18 Wines From Europe And Abroad

E.T. E. T.A A.Hoffman

Lutz Schneider, head concierge at Westin Grand Berlin, shares his secret Berlin tips.

Talking food with Berlin's celebrated chef and restaurateur Tim Raue.

Exploring social uncertainties through contemporary and performance art.

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12 A Culinary Star

61 Ask The Concierge

BERLIN'S

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Also Inside

ENTERTAINMENT

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Kilian Kerner A fashion designer's confessions of love for clothing and Berlin.

JULY 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Y.-R abinStr. r

BOTANISCHE NACHT: COURTESY OF BOTANISCHER GARTEN WINE; © ISTOCK PHOTO; KILIAN KERNER, © SCHMIDT&GORGES; TIM RAUE: © NILS HASENAU; DISTRICT MOT: COURTESY OF DISTRICT MOT; EARRINGS BY VIVIENNE WESTWOOD.

SHOPPING

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

M A G A Z I N E

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EDITORIAL

EDITOR Solveig Steinhardt EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Jenna Rose Robbins CONTRIBUTORS Hilda Hoy, Annabelle Mallia,

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There are many reasons to visit Berlin: It's a lesson in modern history, an outdoor museum, Europe's nightlife capital... and then there's the food of course! In the past decades, the German capital has said goodbye to its culinary isolation to start climbing the gourmet ladder and make room for young, creative chefs who like to experiment with local and international combinations of highquality ingredients. For this issue, we've explored Berlin's fabulous food scene, unveiling new trends, talking to chefs and sommeliers, and picking the best restaurants for you to try. So whether it's kebab or Königsberger Klopse you are after, or even Tim Raue's German-Asian fusion, pages 12–19 will guide your tastebuds through gourmet Berlin. Guten Appetit!

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Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LLC, 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901. Printed by Vogel Druck und Medienservice GmbH, Germany

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HOT

DATES July in Berlin is packed with exciting events, from comedy festivals and shadow performances to parades and outdoor concerts.

BERLIN LACHT FROM THURSDAY

Laughter is the best medicine, they say. Get your dose from 21 July to 7 August on Alexanderplatz at Berlin Lacht, an international street festival with a full program of clowns, magicians, comedians, and acrobats to turn that frown upside down. Doctorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s orders! www.berlin-lacht.de

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Where now | calendar

from MONday

Komische Oper Festival

It’s not over until the fat lady sings! Catch Komische Oper’s new productions, one night after the other, in a week-long festival. Each performance will be introduced and concluded with a discussion, giving you a unique take on classics such as My Fair Lady and Cinderella. www.komische-oper-berlin.de

Disney In Concert

SATURDay

Waldbühne’s open-air concert arena amongst the trees provides a magical backdrop to many a summer evening, and families can relive all their favorite Disney melodies at Disney in Concert. Sing along to famous songs from the Lion King, Cinderella, and Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, accompanied by the Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester. For the Elsa-obsessed little ones, rest assured that there will also be songs from Frozen. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de

Shadowland 2

26 from TUESday

Creatures trapped in the dark interior of boxes, a teenage girl playing with her shadow, and the wonderful power of dance are what Shadowland 2 is all about. Created by U.S. dance company Pilobolus, known for their surprising and poetic pieces, the show hits the Admiralspalast theater for a six-day run. www.shadowland2-show.de www.wheretraveler.com 9

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JULy

Classic Open Air

21 FROM THURSDay

Classic Open Air brings music out into the open and onto the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt square. This year celebrates the event's 25th anniversary, with a range of concerts over five nights, from an opera gala to the sounds of Strauss and Gershwin. www.classicopenair.de

sATURday

Botanische Nacht

Nothing screams summer more than the Caribbean. On 16 July, the Botanical Gardens hosts its summer event, the Botanische Nacht, this year featuring reggae beats, Cuban rumba, fruity drinks, and a 16km(10mi.-)long illuminated path for those who want to explore this inner-city plant paradise. www.botanische-nacht.de

Christopher Street DAY Parade SATURday

Fly your rainbow flag at this year’s biggest LGBT celebration. The great parade with colorful floats and thousands of supporters starts around midday on Ku’damm, passing the gay and lesbian hotspots at Nollendorfplatz, past Siegessäule, then ends at the Brandenburg Gate, where DJs will keep the beat and party atmosphere going until midnight. www.csd-berlin.de

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Hot Dates

The Nächte des Ramadan Muslim culture fest goes until Tuesday with nightly shows. The International Hand Organ Festival hits Breitscheidplatz with free outdoor shows. The Open Air Gallery transforms Oberbaum Bridge into a big, outdoor art show all day. Trip-hop legends Massive Attack are back in town for a concert at Zitadelle Spandau. The Staatsballett dances Sleeping Beauty tonight, one of the last shows of the season. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus – "caffeine for the ears." Bask in ultimate relaxation in the flotation pool and saunas of Kreuzberg's Liquidrom. See the Deutsche Oper perform Mozart's Magic Flute for the final time this season. Join the crowds for Staatsoper für Alle, a free concert on Mitte's Bebelplatz at 6pm. Join the fun and sing your heart out at Mauerpark flea market's open-air karaoke. Admire stunning Mayan artifacts at MartinGropius-Bau's special exhibition. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Feel the thumping rhythm as Japan's Yamato Drummers play at Komische Oper. Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegasstyle show at Friedrichstadt-Palast. Kick off the weekend with cocktails at Bryk, Prenzlauer Berg's chicest nightlife spot. Hit the dance floor at Clärchens Ballhaus, Mitte's charming centenarian dance hall. Hello, is it Lionel Ritchie you're looking for? Hear his hits live at Zitadelle Spandau. The Pixies are back! The legendary band plays al fresco at Spandau Zitadelle. Picasso fans won't want to miss the collection of masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Iconoclast Neil Young performs tonight at Waldbühne's outdoor stage. Sip a cool beer under the chestnut trees at Prater, the city's oldest Biergarten. Show your pride and join the big CSD parade, starting at noon at Ku'damm/Joachimstaler Str. The Classic Open Air festival continues with a Gershwin concert on Gendarmenmarkt. Sample the famous Apfelstrudel at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus. Rock out at Lido with Mudhoney, the Seattle band that influenced music's grunge era. Delve into a world of secret intrigue at the thrilling Spy Museum by Potsdamer Platz. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English. Cool off with a dip at Badeschiff, the swimming pool floating in the Spree river. Visit Chamäleon Varieté to see Czech "new circus" masters at work in ROOTS. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must.

Berlin Lacht: courtesy of Berlin Lacht; Komische Oper Festival: Photo by Iko Freese, drama-berlin.de; Shadowland2: courtesy of Shadowland 2, Photo by Beowulf Sheehan; Disney in Concert: Photo by Kai Bienert; Classic Open Air: © Davids; CSD: © Istock photo; Botanische Nacht: courtesy of Botanischer Garten.

Where now | calendar

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

13/06/2016 08:53

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BERLIN’S T CULINARY STAR

THE FOOD ISSUE

im Raue is something of a hometown culinary hero. The story of his rise from the streets of Kreuzberg – where he spent part of his youth in a notorious gang – to the highest echelons of Berlin’s restaurant scene is a captivating one. But what’s really won over fans is Raue’s culinary style, a daring and precise fusion of European haute cooking and the Asian cuisines he admires. After landing his first chef job in the late 1990s, Raue quickly ascended the culinary ranks and reaped awards and accolades along the way – not least a handful of Michelin stars. Today, he is the force behind no less than four Berlin restaurants (see column, right) and one in Munich, with big aspirations that will soon take him abroad. But even as he prepares to open a restaurant in Dubai this fall, he remains a Berlin boy bound to his roots.

Hilda Hoy spoke with celebrated chef and restaurateur Tim Raue about his plans for the future and his predictions for Berlin’s food scene.

Hilda Hoy: With your first two restaurants, Tim Raue and Sra Bua, you took inspiration from the culinary traditions of Asia. After that came La Soupe Populaire, with refined variations on traditional German cuisine. And now Colette, a French brasserie. What influences the culinary directions you take, and what comes next?

Tim Raue’s famed interpretation of Peking duck

Tim Raue: There are two aspects of my work. First, the restaurants I open and the culinary concepts I realize there, and then there’s the actual core of my creative work, which is the Tim Raue restaurant. As for the restaurants, I develop those culinary concepts to suit the individual circumstances. In the future, this could mean going in even more new directions. The Tim Raue restaurant, on the other hand, is unequivocally Asian and will remain that way, as this is my culinary path and the core of my brand – at the very highest standards.

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MAIN PHOTO, OPPOSITE PAGE: PEKING DUCK BY ANDREA THODE. TIM RAUE PORTRAIT: NILS HASENAU. THIS PAGE: FOOD BY ANDREA THODE; TIM RAUE AND COLETTE INTERIOR BY NILS HASENAU, SRA BUA INTERIOR COURTESY OF WWW.LUMAS. COM.

WHERE NOW | TIM RAUE

THE RESTAURANTS

Innovative dishes at the Tim Raue restaurant: red shrimp (above) lobster claw with carrot (right), veal with Périgord truffle.

HH: How do you continue finding inspiration for your culinary art and the new projects that you initiate? TR: I travel a great deal, meet people, see art exhibitions, and am a very enthusiastic visitor of department stores, where I am inspired by all kinds of visual stimuli. However, new ideas only come during the downtime, when I am feeling balanced and my head is clear. HH: Since you’ve started working as a chef, the culinary scene in Berlin has changed a great deal. In recent years there have suddenly been many more Michelin stars, much more international diversity, and more foodies with ever-higher standards. What do you make of these developments? TR: I don’t really observe the scene – I’ve never been interested in what others are doing. Regardless of this, the city of Berlin has naturally undergone strong developments, which is due to all the international business travelers and tourists coming here. I’m of the opinion, however, that one should not stray too far from one’s own city. We want to keep making restaurants for Berliners, because that’s who we are, we’re part of the city. HH: In the rare case that you have free time on your hands, where do you like to go to eat and drink well?

TR: Cordobar (Große Hamburger Str. 32, www.cordobar.net), with their great wine list and aromatic, wild dishes. Osteria Centrale (Bleibtreustr. 51) is my favorite Italian place. Moon Thai in Kantstrasse (www.moonthai.de) – the lab ped is one of my absolute favorite things to eat. And Good Friends (Kantstr. 30) for Cantonese food like a mom in Sheung Wan would make it.

TIM RAUE Crowned with two Michelin stars, this restaurant is where Tim Raue lets his culinary passions out to play – and gets behind the stove himself whenever time permits. The style: Haute Asian fusion What to order: Raue’s famed signature dish, an interpretation of Peking duck Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030 25937930. www.tim-raue.com

SRA BUA Pan-Asian dinners on the chic, subdued ground floor of the Hotel Adlon-Kempinski. The style: European fine dining meets Japanese and Thai cuisine What to order: The “Ruam Gan” family-style prix fixe menu Behrenstr. 72. T: 030 22611590. www.srabua.berlin

HH: You’ve traveled the world a great deal, for work and perhaps also for pleasure. Have you come across anything in your travels that you miss here? What are your hopes for Berlin’s culinary future? TR: Berlin is currently divided: There are the hip neighborhoods in the east with practically every kind of world cuisine, while the west of the city is lagging markedly behind, because the people who come to Berlin primarily open their small restaurants and business in the hipper areas. So in principle, Berlin still has a lot of potential to develop. Especially when you consider the city is blessed with a surrounding region that puts out fantastic produce and ingredients, as is also the case with San Francisco, or even Seoul – then we can see that there is still potential for things to happen for Berlin.

COLETTE Raue’s newest endeavor, this French brasserie just opened in April a stone’s throw from the chic Kurfürstendamm boulevard in Charlottenburg. The style: Classic French dishes with contemporary, upscale twists What to order: Salade niçoise and boeuf bourguignon Passauer Str. 5-7. T: 030 21992174. www.brasseriecolette.de LA SOUPE POPULAIRE Currently closed for renovations. w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 13

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Where now | ASIAN FOOD

Tim Raue loves the cuisines of the Far East (previous page), and so do we. Here are the Where team’s tips for some of the best Asian eats around town.

3. Thai Kinnaree Thai (Südstern 10, www. kinnaree-thai.de) Masterful and wonderfully aromatic Thai cooking. The hotpots and papaya salad are highly recommended. Ask for it authentically spicy – if you dare. Preußenpark in Wilmersdorf, aka. “the Thai park” Every weekend, scores of Thai women cook and sell fresh, authentic delicacies right on the lawn, turning the park into a lively street food picnic.

1. Chinese Da Jia Le (Goebenstr. 23, www. dajiale-berlin.de) Friendly and authentic, this restaurant is where every Chinese-food fan should go. Try the seaweed salad, fiery Sichuan beef stew, or Peking-style fried pork with pancakes. Yami Yami (Grunewaldstr. 60, www.yami-yami.de) The rich, spicy cuisine of the Hunan region is the specialty here. Make sure to ask for the authentic Chinese menu, with dishes like saucy eggplant or kou rou, braised pork belly with preserved mustard greens.

Above: Korean food at Gogogi. Insets below: Thai papaya salad and Chinese stir-fried beef. Below right: Vietnamese street food restaurant District Mot.

2. Korean & Japanese Gogogi (Weinbergsweg 24, www.gogogi.de) A hip interior, great tabletop Korean barbecues, and a seriously tasty bowl of sizzling bibimbap are just a few of the assets of this central Mitte restaurant. Sasaya (Lychener Str. 50, www. sasaya-berlin.de) This small and perpetually busy Prenzlauer Berg restaurant is where you’ll find some of the best sushi in the city.

Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, www. monsieurvuong.de) Open since the late 1990s and pretty much steadily packed since then, Monsieur Vuong was one of the original restaurants to make Vietnamese food trendy in Berlin. The fast, fresh, and affordable daily specials are always tasty, as are the pho beef noodle soup and fruity shakes.

gogogi © ett la benn; district mot: courtesy of district mot. photos 1 and 3: © istock photo.

TASTES OF ASIA

THE FOOD ISSUE

4. Vietnamese District Mot (Rosenthaler Str. 62, www.districtmot.com) Styled like a lively street market, this colorful, crowded eatery’s broad menu includes a wide range of finger food designed for sharing, from fresh rice paper rolls to chicken feet.

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Where now | TURKISH FOOD

From Istanbul, With Love V

Berlin’s sizeable Turkish population has bestowed the capital with a wealth of food, culture, and street life to discover, Hilda Hoy found.

arious waves of migration have left indelible imprints on Berlin throughout history, but one of the most significant is surely the Turkish. Facing a labor shortage in its post-WWII economic boom, West Germany negotiated a treaty with Turkey in 1961, and over the next several decades, Turkish migrant workers came in droves. Many ended up staying and, today, there are approximately three million people living in Germany with Turkish roots – the largest ethnic minority in the country. About six percent of Berlin’s population can claim Turkish descent. One enduringly vibrant epicenter of Turkish culture is Kreuzberg, in the neighborhood radiating outward from Kottbusser Tor. The best way to experience this heritage, naturally, is by eating, and there are plenty of options. Hasir (Adalbertstr. 10–12, www.hasir. de) is renowned for being the birthplace of the now-ubiquitous döner kebab sandwich,

but it faces plenty of stiff local competition for good noshing. Nearby Doyum (Admiralstr. 36, www.doyum-restaurant.de) makes some of the best Adana kebab (spicy ground lamb skewers with rice and salad) around, while Adana Grillhaus (Manteuffelstr. 86, www.2

where you can sip strong black tea and nibble on freshly roasted sunflower seeds or Turkish delight as you watch the street life on one of the neighborhood’s main arteries. Or head down busy Kottbusser Damm to La Femme (No. 77), which makes decadent sweets as adanagrillhaus.de) is famous for its well as kumpir, buttery baked potatoes succulent grilled lamb chops. with a mind-boggling range of Wherever you dine, try a glass toppings. La Femme is also a Turkish cuisine of cold, creamy ayran, a salty spot for Turkish breakfasts is defined by a variety yogurt drink. of simit (chewy bread rings of meat-based dishes, Work off the meal by coated in sesame) and fried vegetables, olives, lots taking a stroll through the menemen (scrambled eggs of Mediterranean spices and twice-weekly market on garlic, yogurt, sheep cheeses, with onion and tomato). Maybachufer, commonly Give the body a little TLC and delicious honeyreferred to as the “Turkish after all the gluttony at the dipped pastries. market.” Every Tuesday and hamam, or Turkish bathhouse, Friday from 11:30am–6:30pm, at Kreuzberg’s Schokofabrik locals flock to the banks of the women’s center (Mariannenstr. 6, www. Landwehr Canal to score bargains on fresh hamamberlin.de). The traditional exfoliation produce, olives, cheese, bread, and spices. For and soap massage treatments will leave you a snack and some people-watching, make a feeling like new – but sorry, gents, this one’s stop at Smyrna Kuruyemis (Oranienstr. 27), for ladies only.

Left: Turkish tiles. Above: one of Berlin’s many kebab shops; This image: strong black tea, Turkish style; Right: chicken kebab on its spit.

kebab shop, middle column, top: yann gar, creative commons CC by 2.0, via flickr.com. All other images: © istock photo.

THE FOOD ISSUE

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FEAST FEAST

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THE FOOD ISSUE

FETING

WINES FROM EUROPE AND BEYOND

Connoisseur Bradley Mitton shares his tips for wining and dining while visiting Berlin. By Jenna Rose Robbins.

hen most wine connoisseurs reach for a bottle, a German wine often isn’t their first choice. And they’d be missing out. Although France, Italy, and California are more world-renowned for their varietals, the reputation of Germany’s wines is on the rise. “Germany’s sommeliers and restaurant owners are very proud of their offerings,” says Bradley Mitton, owner of Mitton Wines, based in Hackescher Markt. “Germany’s wine industry has developed a lot in the past five or 10 years. There are quite a lot of interesting styles of German wines – particularly whites.” Because of the country’s climate, Mitton explains, reds are more difficult to grow, which also makes them more expensive. But that suits health-conscious diners just fine. “It’s a global trend that people are drinking fresher, lower-alcohol wines. And people are also eating lighter meat and fish these days.” And those more healthful options are precisely what pair better with Germany’s stellar array of whites, the most popular

of which is Riesling, although there are plenty of others to choose from. “Look for trocken [dry] whites, which are dry and fresh,” advises Mitton. “Some of them have such great character and can be paired with light meat.” “The German wine system of labeling is quite complicated,” says Mitton, “so a German wine list can look a little intimidating. Most people who visit Germany would never have a clue that Spätburgunder is pinot noir. And that’s where these labels—like those in France— fail.” But with a little knowledge of German wine names, even those unfamiliar with the labeling system can order with ease. (See sidebar, right.)

Mitton recently published a book of recipes and wine pairings, Around the World With Bradley Mitton, and runs the popular Club Vivanova, throwing culinary events in several cities across Europe. More than 20,000 newsletter subscribers look forward to announcements of the club’s next gathering, and while some events are members-only, most are open to anyone. Past Berlin events have been held at the James Bond-themed Vesper bar and the exclusive International Club Berlin, which opened its doors for a rare non-members gathering. Mitton is enthusiastic about Berlin’s food scene. “People are serving all sorts of things here. Nothing could shock anyone in Berlin. Anything goes. They’re much more open-

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OPPOSITE PAGE: ©ISTOCK. INSET: BRADLEY MITTON: COURTESY OF BRADLEY MITTON; THIS PAGE: CORDOBAR: COURTESY OF CORDOBAR; Z&KO: COURTESY OF Z&KO; KURPFALZ: COURTESY OF KURPFALZ; WINE RACK: © ISTOCK.

WHERE NOW | WINE minded. The Germans are into trying new things, especially the younger generation.” When he’s in town for a Club Vivanova event, Mitton hits his regular haunts, which range all over the map and culinary spectrum. “I’m a big admirer of chef Duc Ngo,” he says, speaking of the owner of several Berlin establishments, including sushi bar Kuchi (Kantstr. 30 and Gipsstr. 3) and Vietnamese-French brasserie Madame Ngo (Kantstr. 30). “The food is outstanding,

plus he’s a really great guy.” Mitton goes on to list restaurants representing every corner of the globe: tapas at YOSOY (Rosenthaler Str. 37), dim sum at Good Friends (Kantstr. 30), and the lakeside Fischerhütte am Schlachtensee (Fischerhüttenstr. 136), noted for its seafood and beer garden. “You’re quite spoiled for choice, actually,” Mitton says. “And also really good value.” Visit the website for upcoming events in Berlin and elsewhere.

PROST, SALUTE, À LA SANTÉ: OUR FAVORITE WINE BARS

2 Schmidt Z&Ko (Rheinstr. 45-46, www.schmidt-z-ko. de), offering wines selected with the highest standards, along with culinary masterworks of German cuisine.

Outside of Germany, some of the following varietals are virtually unknown, while more common names such as pinot noir go by their German counterparts. Here’s how to decode the sommelier’s list, and what to order with it.

MÜLLERTHURGAU: Related to Riesling, the grape variety is distinctly different, with a mild and fruity taste. Although not well-known outside of Germany, it’s the second most widely grown grape in the country. Pairs well with: Salads and light dishes, particularly the popular white asparagus. SPÄTBURGUNDER: Known as pinot noir elsewhere in the world, Germany’s most widely grown red grape is known as a “late Burgundian,” for its ties to the Burgundy region of France and its harvesting time. Pairs well with: Earthy dishes, such as lentils and mushrooms, as well as venison and poultry. DORNFELDER: Trailing just behind Spätburgunder in terms of German redwine production, the varietal comes in two styles: fruity and wood-ripened. Pairs well with: Game dishes and cheeses.

3 Kurpfalz Weinstuben (Wilmersdorfer Str. 93, www.kurpfalzweinstuben.de), a quaint, oldfashioned cellar of German wines from the Palatinate region

GRAUBURGUNDER: Grau means “gray,” which makes it easy to remember that this is the German term for pinot gris/ pinot grigio (gris and grigio mean “gray” in French and Italian, respectively). Pairs well with: Simple but rich sauces, shellfish, chicken.

4 Chez Maurice (Bötzowstr. 39, www.chez-maurice. com), with more than 200 French wines with focus on the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions.

Confused when you look at a wine menu? You’re not alone.

RIESLING: By far the most common wine in the country, the white wine has its origins in the Rhine region. Pairs well with: Most anything, but especially shellfish, summer dishes such as salads, and Asian cuisine.

1 Cordobar (Große Hamburger Str. 32, www. cordobar.net), a favorite among Berlin’s wine fans (Tim Raue included), specializing in German and Austrian wines as well as international ones.

GUIDE TO GERMAN WINES

WEISSBURGUNDER: Weiß means “white,” and the full word translates as pinot blanc. Although not nearly as popular as Grauburgunder, its popularity and production have increased in recent years. Pairs well with: Seafood, pork, and pasta. w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 19

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WHERE NOW | SUNNY DAYS

SUNNY

DAYS

Sun, glorious sun! Claudia Koksch and Mehtap Sert share their picks for soaking in the rays this summer.

1. Sun hat by Barbour, Kurfürstendamm 26a. 2. Summer dress by Cinque, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 3. Sandal by Attilo Giusti Leombruni, Galeries Lafayette, Friedrichstr. 76-78. 4. Earrings by Vivienne Westwood, Cadenzza Berlin Store, Friedrichstr. 172. 5. Shorts by LTB, www.ltbjeans.com. 6. Thongs by Tom Tailor Denim, Tom Tailor Store, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 7. Bag by Barbour, Kurfürstendamm 26a. 8. Nail polish by Catherine, Catherine Flagship Store, Knesebeckstr. 37. 9. Sun protection cream by Lavera, Douglas, Tauentzienstr. 16.

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Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 05.05.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

24,90 €

UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE

UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ

UNIQLO HACKESCHER MARKT

Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin Mo - Do 10:00 - 20:30 Fr - Sa 10:00 - 21:00

Leipziger Platz 16, 10117 Berlin Mo - Sa 10:00 - 21:00

Rosenthaler Straße 42, 10178 Berlin Mo - Sa 10:00 - 21:00

Shop Online: uniqlo.com/de

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

This image: Lala Berlin; right: Stoffbruch.

Urban Gone Mainstream "Urban" no longer refers to the low-slung pants, bandanas, and statement jewelry style of the hip-hop and R&B scenes of the ‘90s. Urban fashion today is simply what’s happening on the streets of big cities, a mix-match of current trends and designer items with added individuality and plenty of attitude. In Berlin, urban style is practical but creative, casual without forgetting the details. It’s hard to find a label that epitomizes the Berlin metropolis better than lala Berlin (Alte Schönhauser Str. 3, www.lalaberlin.com). Former MTV Berlin editor-turned-designer Leyla Piedayesh is the creative mind behind the unconventional yet chic collection of clothing, bags, and shoes for women, and her cashmere scarves are one of the city’s most recognized fashion accessories. Hand-printed in Italy, the scarves are luxuriously cozy and have become a popular accessory among celebrities and fashion lovers.

Praised by stars such as German singer shoes, and other accessories. Their everClueso, Berlin-based Stoffbruch (Wühlischstr. popular Vintage line is characterized by a cool 15, www.stoffbruch.com) has been adding a used look. touch of elegance to the urban outfit since Berlin-based knitwear label Maiami 2010. What makes the label's clothes so (KaDeWe, www.maiami.de) is the creation of special is the attention to detail, evident in the designer Maike Dietrich, who likes to intertwine hand-drawn designs and materials they this traditional handcraft with motifs inspired by choose. Their new Rapa printed t-shirts and modern pop culture and to present her Warren hoodies are the perfect example of collection on urban backgrounds of subtly the Berlin urban style. familiar Berlin locations. Her crochet tops and Now found across the continent, dresses are perfect for summer. Liebeskind Berlin (www.liebeskindFor the men out there, there's ben|weide berlin.com) still maintains its creative (Mulackstr. 1, www.benweide.com), which center right here in the combines classic elegance and capital, in the eternally hip business attire with a Kreuzberg neighborhood. contemporary, casual style. Its Inspired by this setting, it signature item, the “Suiddy," has become a symbol of takes inspiration from both a the fashionable urban suit and a hoodie and lifestyle, sporting bold yet perfectly embodies the city's urban spirit. casual designs in bags, A bag by Liebeskind

lala berlin: © lala berlin; stoffbruch: courtesy of stoffbruch; inset: liebeskind.

Annabelle Mallia set out on a shopping trip to discover her urban style.

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lala berlin: © lala berlin; stoffbruch: courtesy of stoffbruch; inset: liebeskind.

THE

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

for the

label lovers

Designer brands at 30-70% less.* more to love, All year round.

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

SAVE AN EXTRA 10%** designeroutletberlin.com

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton

Than RRP. ** Take this page to our information desk to claim. *

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shop stop

MICHAEL KORS

ROLEX BOUTIQUE

UNIQLO

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de

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Welche Farbe hat Ihre Liebe? Entdecken Sie 12 einzigartige Niessing Colors. NIESSING BERLIN Stilwerk / KantstraĂ&#x;e 17 niessing.com

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS BERLIN, VISIT WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger

Swiss Perfection Founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, Geneva-based watch brand Chopard has been making luxury wristwatches and pocket watches for more than 150 years. In 1963, Chopard’s ownership changed hands to German watchmaker Karl Scheufele, whose descendants still own and operate the business. The premium timepiece maker is well known for manufacturing its own watch movements and for their innovative Happy Sport line of watches, with precious stones floating freely under the watch's glass (pictured above). Haute-couture jewelry, engagement rings, and other accessories such as handbags, writing instruments, eyewear, and fragrances can also be found bearing the trusted Chopard label, and are sold at the Chopard Boutique on the Ku’damm. Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. www.chopard.com

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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shop stop

VOLKER LANG STORE

PROMOBO

COTÉLAC

Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories. The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since. Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

That breezy, enviably stylish French look can be yours thanks to Cotélac, a French brand that creates comfortable yet flattering clothing and accessories for both women and men. Unique prints, fine fabrics and subtle details are brand hallmarks.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de shop stop

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

TORSTRASSE

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

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ROS

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ANNS

LINIENSTRASSE

TR.

Rosenthaler Platz TORS

TRAS

No 74

SE Kaviar Gauche

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

shop stop

RASSE

ADTST

ALMST

AUS

ÖNH

SCH

ALT

ASSE

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand has a store in Berlin. Check out the classic 59FIFTY baseball cap and a number of other designs, for both men and women. Don't miss the summer apparel collection in the Berlin flagship store.

ER STR

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE

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SSE

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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin MULA RASSE VOLK T S T S ER LA CKSTR Cotélac AUGU Greta NG S ASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT Be ieb Oh SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es r HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. r d m Freitag RAS 11 a n SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ MÜHLE Store Berlin Michael Kors NZ A MCM did STRAS Strellson Promobo SE as Dr IK We yk KS ekd Bu Home on earth ay designer depot UN ffalo orn IQ Hackesche Höfe LO Boots & Shoes Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store

shop stop

HOME ON EARTH

CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR

REBECCA STORE

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp, this store just opened its first branch in Berlin.

It's heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes stocks the brand's line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy and a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices. And with their Magic Candy Factory, a 3D food printer, customers can easily create their own vegan fruit gum.

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.katjes.de

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de

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SHOPPING

shop stop Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

DESIGNER DEPOT Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net shop stop

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Barbour Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

UNIQLO High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Mon-Sat 10am to 9pm. Rosenthaler Str. 42 www.uniqlo.com/de

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Boggi Milano

www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer | depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories just to name a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gretchen Store Berlin Eclectic combinations of shiny glazed and waxed leathers and elaborate design elements are distinct to the Berlin-based Gretchen look. On offer are exclusive leather bags and accessories,

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS shop stop

The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

By Anne

FROSCH & KÖNIGIN This trendy fashion store in the middle of the buzzing Mitte neighborhood carries many unique brands from all over the world. It is the go-to place for shopping queens and urban princesses who like to dress with style. Show this page and get 20% off (valid until 30 September 2016.)

Rochstrasse 16. T: 030 28873734 www.froschundkoenigin.de

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags by By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views.

A traditional shaving set from Mühle (p. 34).

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SHOPPING including the signature, award-winning Tango Pouch. www.mygretchen.com. Rosenthalerstr. 4041, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4. T: 030.20215165. S Hackesher Markt, U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Sontag

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, worn by celebrities. Their comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection adding bags, lingerie, beachwear and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www. uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42;S Hackescher Markt. F3

Luminous Vision No matter which decade of vintage eyewear you’re in the market for, Lunettes Selection has it, with an array of rare and unworn vintage fashion eyewear from every decade since 1900. Aside from its selection for adults, some Lunettes locations also carry vintage fashion eyewear for children and teenagers. Frames at Lunettes are sourced from high-quality manufacturers across Europe and around the world. At each branch, opticians measure your vision to ensure the most appropriate fit for lenses, and the friendly and knowledgeable staff guide you to the best frames to complement your look. Torstr. 172. T: 030.20215216. www.lunettes-selection.de

Wolfen A Berlin-based brand specializing in knitwear items for both women and men. All products are made with natural fibers and finished by hand. www.wolfengermany.com. Auguststr. 41. T: 030.49781966. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße.T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Shoes & Accessories

the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor The sixth floor of KaDeWe Klaus Märtens. Check out many features an extensive food designs and colors of the famous court and market, including boots at Boots & Shoes, from the select American classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, products. or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186.

courtesy of lunettes

The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

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SHOPPING T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Oakley This store showcases Oakley’s entire assortment, from clothing to accessories, but the focus is on the eyewear, which uses latest technology to cater to the needs of professional sportspeople and amateurs alike. www.oakley.com. Hackesher Markt, Rosenthaler Str. 34. T: 030.23457770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Jewelry & Watches Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection

with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3.

Promobo Many of the fun, offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2

BEAUTY & WELLNEES Babor

Home Décor

Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Home on Earth

Mühle

Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles. www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. S Hackescher Markt.E3

Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE

shoes UK

clothes Euro

women 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

TWIN-SET Simona Barbieri Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12

8 9 10 11 12 13

Xs s m l

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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Whales and fish tank: courtesy of ozeaneaum, meeresmuseum stralsund; tropical islands: courtesy of tropical islands; spreewald: © istock photo.

THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Aquatic Getaways Schools of fish, Renaissance towns, sandy beaches, and water mazes make Berlin's surroundings well worth a road trip, Solveig Steinhardt discovered. If you still think the best aquariums are the ones with the strangest tropical fishes, you probably haven't been to the Ozeaneum in Stralsund (www.deutschesmeeresmuseum.de). At this huge ocean museum three hours north of Berlin on the Autobahn, the attraction is not the biodiversity or the bright colors of the aquatic species. The museum focuses instead on the most common local fish, such as sardines, mackerel, flounder, or tuna, and presents them by the thousands in gigantic, scenic tanks. The result is truly breathtaking: Visitors have the impression of being underwater, with thousands of sea creatures passing above their heads. The Ozeaneum, housed inside a modern building overlooking the Stralsund harbor, is spread over three floors, with an entire level dedicated to Baltic Sea species and one for the North Sea habitats. Comprehensive exhibitions explain the different biota in great detail, from the coast down to the depths. On the ground floor,

visitors can lie down and admire life-sized reproductions of the world's biggest whales and giant squids hanging from the ceiling, while sounds and voices depict the different species. The visit can easily last four to five hours, after which you can take a walk in the historic center of Stralsund, whose picturesque Renaissance buildings and city layout earned the city its status as a UNESCO world heritage site. Or pack your beach bag and drive north over the Strelasund bridge to explore the

Baltic island of Rügen, whose cities Binz and Sellin have been popular beach destinations since the 1920s. But you don't have to travel far from Berlin to spend a day at the beach. Fifty kilometers south is Tropical Islands, a large lagoon-style pool surrounded by palm trees and white sand, all enclosed under a giant glass dome that used to be an aircraft hangar. It may look a bit cheesy at first, but it's a fun getaway for families and groups of friends. Last May, the indoor tropical bubble was expanded, and the brand-new tropical park, called Amazonia, now features 35,000 sq.m. (377,000 sq.ft.) of outdoor aquatic entertainment, including a whitewater river and a heated pool open year-round. Those who prefer a more idyllic getaway can drive down 100 km (62 mi) southeast to Spreewald, where dozens of interconnected canals make up a water maze surrounded by vegetation. Rent a boat, get a map of the canals, and enjoy getting lost in the rural surroudings. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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PASS VISIT WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

MAJOR SIGHTS

All Aboard!

The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Model train enthusiasts and parents looking for a kid-friendly shopping break should make their way to LOXX Miniature Worlds, on the top floor of the Alexa shopping mall. LOXX features one of the biggest model railway systems in the world, modeled after the Berlin train network. Look closely and you will see Zoologischer Garten station and the nearby animal enclosures, Alexanderplatz and the famous TV tower, and the government quarter, including the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate – all reduced to a scale of 1:87. Moving trains, tiny cars, and light and sound installations, with simulations of day, night, and thunderstorms, will leave the little ones fascinated. The miniature airport with departing and landing planes is a main attraction, as is the smallest chocolate factory in the world, where Santa’s elves produce tiny blocks of chocolate all year round. Enjoyment is definitely in the details! Grunerstr. 20, www.loxx-berlin.com

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023.

U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue

in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Open daily 10am–6pm (to 5pm Fri). Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under-6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus

Potsdamer Platz

The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views

Philharmonie

Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German

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SIGHTSEEING

Shall We Play? Berlin kids are lucky kids: The city invests ample money and creativity into making its playgrounds spectacular, and each of the 2000+ play areas has its own personality and theme. Here are our favorite five:

Dragon park (Friedrichshain) This small playground hidden between two buildings at Schreinerstr. 48 features a green dragon you can walk into and slide down, plus climbing facilities galore.

The Rubber Playground (Schöneberg) Kids love jumping around, and this adventurous playground on Winterfeldtplatz is made entirely of bouncy rubber sheets.

The Arkonaplatz Play Area (Prenzlauer Berg) Tunnel slides, cableways, climbing towers, and jumping mattresses are just some of the attractions you will find at this 1600 sq.m (17,222sq.ft) play park.

The Snow White Playground (Charlottenburg, MommsenstraSSe) There’s the prince’s castle with real rooms and lots of ladders and slides, the dwarves’ house, and the mine with a real water pump so kids can splash around on hot days.

The Ship Park (Kreuzberg) Little buccaneers will enjoy the gigantic pirate ship inside the Görlitzer Park playground.

Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Karl-Marx-Allee

Siegessäule (Victory Column)

Stasi Prison

The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette. de. Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon

Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a The Berlin dialect was terrifying interactive journey While West Berliners loved to influenced by the through the city's dark past via express their creativity by drawing Huguenots in the 1600s. a sometimes-spooky, actor-led graffiti and painting on the Wall, French words are still experience. Visitors are taken East Berliners were never allowed common in the local through attractions such as the old to use the dividing structure as a parlance. library of Berlin, a plague-infected canvas. To make up for all the artless street, a torture chamber, a secret years, artists from 21 countries were called court, and more. Not recommended for upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends eastern segment with their work, creating what is until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. S+U Warschauer Straße, Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and S Ostbahnhof. G4 Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Holocaust Memorial Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3 MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The provide ample indoor space, making the venue underground information center provides a suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 number of species and total animal residents in the hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, Cora-Berliner Straße. features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and T: 030.2639430. alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: U Brandenburger Tor. E3

East Side Gallery

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park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

River Trips Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt

GDR History On The Spree Experience the unique modern history of Berlin on the East Side Tour, a two-and-ahalf-hour narrated river tour by Reederei BWSG that journeys daily on the Spree River through the former East. When Berlin was divided, sections of the Spree also served as an extension of the Wall and as a part of no-man’s land. Departing from Pier Alte Börse near Hackescher Markt, the boat goes by the Berliner Dom down towards Jannowitzbrücke and the East Side Gallery, where the most iconic preserved sections of the Berlin Wall still stand. Soon after, the boat reaches the famous Oberbaum Bridge, which used to be the line dividing East and West. The boat passes the monumental Molecule Man sculpture on the river before embarking on the return journey towards Hackescher Markt. www.bwsg-berlin.de. €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Currywurst Museum

Biosphäre Potsdam

Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets

Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque

Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

Tours & GUIDED Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030. www.wheretraveler.com 39

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THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

abandoned hospital, monument, communist office: photos by martin roemers, courtesy of deutsches historisches museum; Allied museum and army care package: courtesy of allied museum.

Top: the Allied Museum; Far left: an abandoned hospital in Juterbog; Center: a Soviet monument in Soliniwi; This photo: a Communist-era meeting room.

Postcards From The Space Age There's no better place than Berlin to experience the remnants of the Cold War, says Solveig Steinhardt. What remains of the Cold War? Parts of the Berlin Wall, of course, but more than that. The nuclear threats of the Atomic Era, which stimulated the imaginations of a whole generation of science-fiction filmmakers on the other side of the ocean, had a much more sinister effect in Eastern Europe, where bunkers, military stations, watchtowers, border control stations, minefields, and futuristic monuments served despotic regimes that seemed to constantly be on the verge of war. Dutch photographer and World Press Photo winner Martin Roemers has spent 10 years examining this historic period and documenting its traces before they are permanently swept away by time. This month, the Deutsches Historisches Museum (p. 42) presents Roemers' shots of abandoned military structures around the Eastern Bloc in the exhibition Relics of the Cold War, which includes images of Soviet cemeteries, rusty tanks, old bomb shelters in the middle of the Baltic sea, and entire fields of

A U.S. Army CARE package (Allied Museum)

army waste. The Deutsches Historisches Museum provides a good introduction to the Cold War theme, but if you want to get an in-depth overview of its historic context, visit the Cold War Black Box on Friedrichstraße (www.bfgg. de), which walks visitors through the events that led to the rise and fall of the Iron Curtain and analyzes of what the political situations in the other Communist countries. To West Berliners in particular, all this meant not only being surrounded by a Wall but also

being occupied by the military forces of the Allied powers, which protected the city from the supposedly imminent attack. For additional protection, West Berlin renovated old WWII bomb shelters and built new underground bunkers that could host a large portion of the population in the event of a World War III. One of them, situated near Pankstraße in Wedding, was built in 1977 as a multi-purpose structure to serve as an U-Bahn stop in time of peace and as a bunker for more than 3000 people in emergencies. This and other bunkers can be visited by booking a tour with Berliner Unterwelten (www.berliner-unterwelten.de), while the presence of U.S., French, and British soldiers and their interactions with the population are documented at the Allied Museum (www.alliiertenmuseum.de) in Zehlendorf, also featuring an old Rosinenbomber aircraft used in the 1948 Berlin Airlift, a piece of the Wall, an American watchtower, and the original Checkpoint Charlie guardhouse. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. From 16 Jun: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 17 Jul: August Kopisch – Painter, Poet, Discoverer, Inventor commemorates interdisciplinary artist Kopisch’s work as a painter, poet, and engineer. To 24 Jul: The Monk Has Returned. The spotlight returns on Caspar David Friedrich’s famous painting, following a lengthy period of conservation and restoration. To 31 Jul: Images and Studies from the Copenhagen Academy of Painting featuring landscapes and figure studies from the rigorous Danish school of painting. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 5 Sep: Textile Design Today explores the ever-evolving world of textile design. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings,

a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 17 Jul: Holbein in Berlin – The Madonna and Masterworks. To 15 Oct: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. To 31 Dec: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Brücke Museum

MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Deutsches Historisches Museum

MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 31 Jul: Sticky Messages – Antisemitic and Racist Stickers from 1880 to the present tells the story of prejudice through the medium of adhesives. To Bröhan-Museum 14 Aug: Relics of the Cold War. Photographs by Martin Roemers. To Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan 16 Oct: Multicultural. Germany, a Admire the art of amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau Country of Immigration follows the Hanako and Rodin, until and Art Deco objects and various historical migration movements into 18 Sep at the Georg paintings from the Berlin Secessionist Germany, from the quest workers of Kolbe Museum. movement. Browse through pieces the 1960s up to the refugees of today. of furniture, housewares, ceramics, Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). and glassware from this fascinating artistic www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. period. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanT: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. Deutsches Technikmuseum U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. From 15 Jul: Emil Nolde. The Painter is a retrospective of the painter’s illuminating works. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 18 Sep: Millionaires can be trans* // You are so brave* explores parallel themes of success narratives of trans individuals and the cisgender-centric notion of equating being trans with bravery. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum. de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 31 Jul: NO COMPROMISES! Dedicated

to the controversial art of NO! and its artist Boris Lurie.

A Bit Of "Her"story The history of Berlin as we know it was largely written by men, who represent only half of the capital's story. The Society for the Advancement of Employment for Women, founded here exactly 150 years ago, has been the driving force in the fight for gender equality in Germany. Berlin – City of Women at the Ephraim-Palais features the life stories of 20 women who had influential roles in Berlin politics, business, and art since the organization was created. More than 400 works and personal items tell the women’s stories and how they've shaped the city as we know it today. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. www.stadtmuseum.de

Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www. jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 25 Sep: We're off then! Travel pictures from from Albrecht Dürer to Olafur Eliasson. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.

Katharina und oskar heinroth, courtesy of ephraim palais, zoologischer garten berlin, © zoo berlin.

Museums

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Turkish artist Gülsün Karamustafa has been an outspoken powerhouse of influence for the younger generations of Turkish artists since the mid-1970s. Her work focuses on migration and ethnicity, feminism, gender and sexuality, politically-induced exile, and examining Western views of the Middle East through a critical lens. Karamustafa uses a variety of media – painting, installation, photography, performance art, and video – to continue the debate underlying these contemporary issues. Chronographia at Hamburger Bahnhof (p. 45) displays more than a hundred of Karamustafa’s works by thematic content, revealing the ongoing social involvement in her oeuvre.

l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen

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open daily:

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

€10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Märkisches Museum

Museum of Asian Art

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Sep: Wolfgang Leber – 50 Years of Paintings follows the ever-changing metropolis through the eyes of the artist. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 1 Jul: Berenice Abbott – Photographs. Insight into the photographer and artist’s influence and lasting legacy. From 16 Jul: Voices of Dissent: Art in the GDR 1976-1989 reexamines the heroically dissident art from the GDR. To 7 Aug: MAYA – The language of Beauty explores the

fundamental pre-Hispanic artistic motif and expression - the body. To 21 Aug: NO, IT IS!: Artist William Kentridge shows his hybrid performance pieces and visual artwork in a political narration. Wed–Mon

10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www. gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm.

2,80€)

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Gülsün Karamustafa: Double Reality, 1987/2013. Collection Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago, gift of Mary and Earle Ludgin by exchange, 2014.18. Photo: Mustafa Hazneci

Chronology Of Dissent

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until August, 31st 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Route. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim. spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 3 Jul: A Photo Rarely Stands Alone; Pairs, sequences, and series of people, architecture, and experiments. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired black-and-white portraits. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4 www.wheretraveler.com 43

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES and drawings of members of the Glass Chain artistic movement. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 10 Jul: Borrowed Light questions the authority of architecture and the structures that surround ous on a daily basis. To 10 Jul: Hans-Peter Feldmann a retrospective of 250 words in celebration of the artist's 75th birthday. From 16 Jul: Poppy – Trails of Afghan Heroin, a photography and video installation detailing the effects of the drug and smuggle trade. From 16 Jul: Adam Jeppesen. Out of Camp recounts the artist’s lone journey from the North Pole to Antarctica. To 4 Sep: Allure is a collection of photographs centering around the theme of allure and elegance. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www. co-berlin.org.Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition

Art has always been closely linked to history, often flourishing in times of prosperity and stability. A famous exception is 17th-century Spain, whose artistic golden age corresponds with the country's loss of political power and its cultural isolation, both caused by the rise of Protestantism and by the conflict between the royal family and the Catholic church. To convey the illusion of stability and strength, the royal house continued commissioning portraits and religious scenes, often intended as political propaganda. From 1 July, the Gemäldegalerie (this page) presents The Velazquez Era, exploring the influential artistic trends of the time through 150 paintings and sculptures by masters such as Diego Velázquez, El Greco, Murillo, and by lesser-known artists.

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 3 Jul: Beards: between Nature and Razor explores the significance of beards throughout history and Berliners' fascination with facial hair. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 24 Jul: Words to read, Words to feel is an introduction to the history, handwriting, and words of the Koran. www.smb. museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive

intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www. spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Art galleries Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Jul: Heidi Specker – In Front of. Photographs 2005/2015, Beckmann and Berlin examines the relationship between photographer and sitter. To 22 Aug: Erwin Wurm – Bei Mutti pushes the boundaries between sculpture, object, and performance, inviting visitors to integrate themselves into the artist’s work. To 31 Oct: Modern Visionaries features the utopian paintings

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 3 Jul: Basim Magdy: The Stars Were Aligned for a Century of New Beginnings is the Egyptian multimedia artist’s first solo exhibition, investigating and challenging ideologies and utopias. From 21 Jul: COMMON AFFAIRS – Revisiting the VIEWS Award – Contemporary Art from Poland. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. From 1 Jul: El Siglo de Oro. The Age of Velázquez follows the artistic depictions of major political and social developments in 17th century Spain. To 17 Jul: Fiesta in Seville. An Illustration Series from the Golden Age in Spain. To 31 Jul: Hanns Kunitzberger takes up temporary residence at the Gemäldegalerie. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic

Diego Velázquez: Die Drei Musikanten, um 1616-20 © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemäldegalerie / Jörg P. Anders

The Spanish Renaissance

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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Berenice Abbott, Flatiron Building, 1938 © Berenice Abbott / Commerce Graphics, courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, NY., Gestaltung: Ta-Trung, Berlin

Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 23 Oct: Gülsün Karamustafa. Chronographia presents Karamustafa’s highly influential works, in which she addresses issues of migration, politically-enforced nomadism, Near East. To 31 Jul: Neue Galerie: The Black Years. Works from the Neue Nationalgalerie created between 1933-1945. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. From 8 Jul: Ingo Mittelstaedt – Chinese Whispers. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www. hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation

Wed - Mon 10am - 7pm, closed on Tue Admission free up to the age of 16

www.gropiusbau.de

MGB_16_ABOOTT_Anz_Where_berlin_118x124mm_RZ.indd 1

Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/ Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 28 Aug: Cindy Sherman – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

ALLURE

[FR. ST YLE, ELEGANCE]

PHOTOGR A PHS F ROM T H E SUSA N N E VON M EISS COLLECT ION 28 May— 4 September 2016

Commercial Galleries Galerie Berlin-Baku, 3 to 30 Jul: Group Exhibition: Move!? Painting, drawing, sculpture, and installation. Großgörschenstr. 7. www. galeriebb.de; Galerie Carlos Hulsch, 8 Jul to 26 Aug: Eduardo Blidner: Leica-photographs from the inheritance. Kurfürstendamm 206 – 208. www. carlos-hulsch.de; Salongalerie „Die Möwe“, 9 Jul to 10 Sep: Armin Mueller-Stahl: People images, painting and graphic reproduction. Auguststr. 50b. www.salongalerie-die-moewe.de; mianki. Gallery, 15 Jul to 3 Sep: Group Exhibition: painting, drawing, sculpture, and installation. Kalckreuthstr. 15. www.mianki.com; Galerie Albrecht, 1 Jul to 10 Sep: Still Leben und Stil Leben. Charlottenstr. 78. www.galeriesusannealbrecht.de.

01.06.16 15:39

www.co-berlin.org

Rita #516, 1953 a.d.S. / from the series Das Auge der Liebe © René Groebli . Design naroska.de, Berlin

Diego Velázquez: Die Drei Musikanten, um 1616-20 © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemäldegalerie / Jörg P. Anders

symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 18 Sep: Auguste Rodin and Madame Hanako. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

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DINING | THE GUIDE

THE FOOD ISSUE

Summertime Street Food Winter in Berlin means bundling up and staying indoors. So when summer rolls around, it’s time to strip down, let loose, and keep it casual. This is the season for eating al fresco, and Berlin’s ongoing infatuation with street food means there’s lots of fun outdoor eating to enjoy all month long. Since launching in 2013, Bite Club has quickly established itself as the city’s most fun food party, bringing together food trucks, DJs, cocktail specials and a young, lively crowd at a variety of outdoor locations (www.biteclub.de). On 3 July, join their Big Bite Club BBQ at Funkhaus Rummelsburg, a funky recording studio and cultural event space down by the river in the district of Lichtenberg. On 22 July, Bite Club will be throwing a second event at another waterside spot closer to the center of the city, Kreuzberg’s Arena club. What’s on the menu? Crispy Sicilian arancini risotto balls, sizzling Jamaican jerk chicken, slow-smoked Alabama-style ribs, Korean chicken wings, cheesy German spätzle noodles, ice cream

sandwiches – and so much more. Throughout the summer and the rest of the year, two weekly street food markets are go-to spots for casual, international cuisine. The original is Street Food Thursday at Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun (Thursdays 5 pm–10pm, Eisenbahnstr. 42, www.markthalleneun. de), a weekly gourmet smorgasbord that’s still incredibly popular several years after its inception. Gourmet highlights include the delectable pulled pork sandwiches from Big Stuff BBQ and pale ales made on site by the Heidenpeters microbrewery. Seeing as the market takes place inside, this is the place to go when the summer weather isn’t cooperating. Street Food auf Achse (Sredzkistr. 1, www. streetfoodaufachse.de) is a similar weekly food

market, on the other side of the city in Prenzlauer Berg’s Kulturbrauerei, a former brewery complex turned cultural center. Get comfortable on one of the courtyard lounge chairs and feast on Russian pelmeni dumplings, savory Indonesian pancakes, Chinese dim sum delights, Argentinian empanadas, and golden Breton-style crepes. For another lively food scene, head to Wilmersdorf’s Preußenpark, right by U-Bahn Fehrbelliner Platz, referred to by everyone as the Thai Park, on a Saturday or Sunday around lunchtime. Rain or shine, women from Berlin’s sizeable Thai and Vietnamese communities flock here to cook fresh, authentic, and so-very-tasty Thai delicacies right on the grass (see p. 14 for details).

All photos courtesy of Bite Club.

Always up for a tasty food mission, Hilda Hoy scoped out all the places to feast on Berlin’s best streetstyle eats this month.

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M A K E H UM MUS, NOT WA LLS.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

All photos courtesy of Bite Club.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

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DINING

THE FOOD ISSUE

Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Move over, tired old pizza joints – there’s a glamorous new Italian in town. The first thing you’ll notice when walking into Cecconi’s is the plush red-leather upholstery, or maybe the marble floors and elegant chandeliers. Beautiful design was a given: Cecconi’s is part of Soho House, an international members-only club that has elected to make the ground-floor restaurant accessible to non-members too. The focus here is high-end Italian, though the homey dishes and generous portions keep things down to earth. You can’t go wrong with those Italian standards – pizza and pasta – as both are done here with the utmost care and gusto. Think pizza with shaved truffles, zucchini blossoms, and goat cheese, or crab ravioli with saffron and peas. The spaghetti with hunks of lobster is already a clear menu winner, as are the steak and fish. For dessert, don’t pass up the profiteroles stuffed with pistachio gelato and dribbled with chocolate sauce. Mamma mia!  Torstr. 1. T: 030.405044680. www.cecconisberlin.com.

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D.

www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de.

Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a stylish interior alongside classic and updated French cuisine. Inside Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for a posh business lunch or romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters tempts as much as the sumptuous mains and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berlin charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian

Italian Done Right

Kushinoya

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equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Schneeweiss

FINE GERMAN CUISINE on the rooftop of the Reichstag

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior

reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Kreuzberg Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities and journalists from the Tageszeitung newspaper upstairs. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Spindler & Klatt club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D.

DA C H G A R T E N - R E S TA U R A N T of the German Bundestag s

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Events RESERVATION IS NEEDED.

Reservations: +49 30 22 62 99 0 berlin@feinkost-kaefer.de www.feinkost-kaefer.de

check this out

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DINING an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40. T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

THE FOOD ISSUE

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www. grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Despite its location in the middle of trend-obsessed Mitte, Tucholsky keeps its culinary concept classic and simple. The theme is homey German food done right, and with the exception of a few little modern twists, that’s what you’ll get. The menu changes regularly to incorporate seasonal specialties, but kitchen staples include the likes of golden-crisp schnitzel, traditional Berlin-style calf’s liver with braised apples and potato puree, and an old East Prussian specialty called Königsberger Klopse, delicately seasoned meatballs served in a caper cream sauce. Once an old-school corner pub, the space has been given a fresh, stylish overhaul, though the historic charm remains intact. That the menu also includes great cocktails should come as no surprise – the restaurant’s owners are also the people behind the popular Neue Odessa Bar just down the road. Torstr. 189. T: 030 27582053. www.restauration-tucholsky.de www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Mitte AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq. de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

Dóttir Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with

Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Katjes Café Grün-Ohr Café. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshsqueezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.katjes.de. F2

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der

Good Ol’ German Classics

Hummus & Friends

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS BERLIN, VISIT WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is

raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek

beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

SCHÖNEBERG Café Aroma Italian. A long-standing neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and Double Eye German bread is among incorporates international Café. This tiny coffee shop regularly the best in the world, tastes. The small but has a line snaking out the front door, and there are some 600 comprehensive menu changes and no wonder: The owner has won varieties from which regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www. multiple European and worldwide barista to choose. lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. championships. Some pastries are also on T: 030.66408710. offer. €. Mon–Sat B&L. www.doubleeye.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2 Akazienstr. 22. T: 0179.4566960. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Maximilians

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with

topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

TIERGARTEN

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can sit in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or by the fireplace in winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Café Einstein Stammhaus German/Austrian. The 1878 Neo-Renaissance villa housing this Viennese-style coffee house makes for a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with a coffee and a good book in oldtimey ambiance. Recommended: a slice of the café's famous apple strudel paired with a Wiener Melange coffee. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Paris-Moskau German/French. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two world wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German cuisines. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau. de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3 Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

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The Conglomeration Of Un/Certainty Curious about how performance art can address social issues, Serene Tseng explores the Foreign Affairs Festival at the Haus der Berliner Festspiele. Hardly anything is certain in life, and though hindsight is always 20/20, we are still caught off guard when uncertainties arise. Fusing theater, dance, fine arts, film, and music, the Foreign Affairs Festival explores the ambiguities of the present through contemporary art, bringing both uncertainty and art to new heights at the Haus der Berliner Festspiele. This year’s Foreign Affairs focus artist is South African William Kentridge (pictured above), whose oeuvre encompasses the political climate and his own identity as the son of prominent anti-Apartheid lawyers. Set against the backdrop of South Africa’s history, his interdisciplinary work transcends the individual limitations of artistic mediums. Starting on 5 July, Kentridge will be performing together with composer Philip Miller, presenting a witty and subversive song cycle that unites animation films based on

Kentridge’s charcoal or ink drawings with a live performance by singers Ann Masina and Joanna Dudley and pianist Vincenzo Pasquariello. On 5 July, Alain Platel’s musical theater will

portray an orchestra musician’s inevitable demise. With instrumentalists and actors on stage, this tragicomic performance is a celebration of life in which familiar classics of music by Mahler or Verdi morph into a new listening experience. On the 7th, Antwerp-based theater company BERLIN will be screening their documentary Zvizdal, a filmic portrait that tells the story of the last months of an elderly married couple residing amid radiation in a ghost town near Chernobyl. And every night at 10pm, the Haus der Berliner Festspiele presents a new exhibition, culminating with an all-nighter of performance by theater company Forced Entertainment, which uses art as the counter to uncertainty before another day begins again. That much, at least, is for certain. 5–17 July. Haus der Berliner Festspiele. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

William kentridge, portrait by marc shoul; inset: william kentridge and joanna dudley, a guided tour of the exhibition © rufus didwiszus_1

ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

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S U I TA B L E F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L V I S I T O R S

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 5 Jul: Die Entführung aus dem Serail (Mozart). 7 Jul: Carmen (Bizet). 8 Jul: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 1, 3 Jul: Orfeo e Euridice (Gluck). 2 Jul: Götterdämmung (Wagner). 8, 11, 14 Jul: Il Trovatore (Verdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3, 5, 9 Jul: The Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper Berlin. www. staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

SUMMER SPECIAL:

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year Berliner Dom 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Berlin’s main cathedral presents a Barenboim is not just one of Kosky is also the artistic director plethora of sacred music concerts the world’s most acclaimed of some of the performances, year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Beethoven interpreters, he’s with mesmerizing results. 1, 8 also the director of the Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. Staatsoper. Jul: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 2, 10 S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 Jul: Cendrillon (Massenet). 3 Jul: Hochschule für Musik Castor et Pollux (Rameau). 4 Jul: Heute Hans Eisler Nacht Oder Nie (Spolianski). 5 Jul: Der Vampyr One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. (Marschner). 6 Jul: Jewgeni Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 7 Its students are members of important orchestras, Jul: Geschichten aus dem Wiener Wald (HK Gruber). choirs, and bands, and the stage presents 9 Jul: Les Contes d'Hoffmann (Offenbach). 12–17 hundreds of concerts every year – many of which Jul: Yamato, the Drummers of Japan. 19–24 Jul: Les are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. Ballets Trocadero de Monte Carlo. www.komischeT: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3 oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400.

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

the soul variety show ”A roaring Dance through Soul-History.” Berliner Kurier

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Jul: Junge Kammerphilharmonie Berlin (cond. Aurélien Bello) performs Stravinsky, Rota, Mendelssohn. www.

”No doubt – the King of Pop would be amazed.” zitty Berlin

Soul, Funk, Rhythm & Blues: they all provide this show with its unmistakeable groove. YAMATO: © HIROSHI SEO, COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER.

WILLIAM KENTRIDGE, PORTRAIT BY MARC SHOUL; INSET: WILLIAM KENTRIDGE AND JOANNA DUDLEY, A GUIDED TOUR OF THE EXHIBITION © RUFUS DIDWISZUS_1

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

The Sound Of Thunder You’ve never experienced drumming quite like this. One of mankind’s most basic of instruments takes center stage with Yamato, an ensemble that performs on traditional Japanese taiko drums, originally reserved for sacred Shinto ceremonies and warfare. The 17-member group, which has staged more than 2500 shows in some 51 countries, tours up to 10 months of the year, and fans around the world eagerly await their annual return. Pulsing with raw rhythms and sprinkled with only-in-Japan humor, the orchestrations include both traditional arrangements and modern beats that showcase Yamato’s enthusiasm for their craft. Their goal: to inspire the audience with a “passion for life.” 12–17 July. Komische Oper. www.komische-oper-berlin.de.

For a short time only: 13 July – 28 August 2016 Tickets from € 32,00* #allnightlong

Potsdamer Straße 96 · 10785 Berlin Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 www.wintergarten-berlin.de * Prices plus advance booking fee and € 2,00 system fee/ticket

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ENTERTAINMENT

Music Under A “Harvest Moon” Pack your picnic basket and head to the Waldbühne for an alfresco evening of classics with Neil Young. The outspoken icon returns to Berlin, this time backed by Promise of the Real, led by Willie Nelson’s son Lukas Nelson, to support their recent collaboration, The Monsanto Years. As with much of Young’s work, the album is highly political, this time castigating the American agricultural industry and railing against modern injustices (one track is entitled A Rock Star Bucks a Coffee Shop). Twice inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (first for his solo career, then again for his work with his former band, Buffalo Springfield), Young is often considered one of the greatest living songwriters and has a prolific library that few in the recording industry can rival. 21 July. Waldbühne, www.waldbuehne-berlin.de.

Konzerthaus

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei! Now: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More Info and tickets at cinestar.de

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1, 2 Jul: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Simone Young) perform Schumann. 8–10 Jul: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Netopil) with Julian Rachlin (violin) perform Dvorák, Schumann, Shostakovich. 15, 16 Jul: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Davies) with Chad Hoopes (violin) perform Bruckner, Adams, Glass. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. Summer Break. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www. radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Dock 11 Studios & Eden

Odeon

Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s

courtesy of mpi music pool

berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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HIHOB_16010 • 08.06.16 • EFZ • AZ // Where Magazin // Innenteil • DU: 08.06.16 • Format: 206 x 276 mm + 3 mm Beschnitt • 4c • F45 PSO LWC improved • Step 1

BERLIN

BOSTON

CHIC AGO

L A S VEG A S

NEW YORK

ORL ANDO

THE BEAT OF BERLIN.

EXPERIENCE BERLIN’S INTERNATIONAL SHOWS. You shouldn’t miss our international shows on your visit to Berlin: experience first-hand history of Berlin with your visit to the musical HINTERM HORIZONT – with English subtitles – and the unique

form of bilingual entertainment in the most successful show BLUE MAN GROUP with its fantastic celebration of music, technology and art.

Both theaters are located at Potsdamer Platz!

www.stage.berlin

PRESENTED BY STAGE ENTERTAIN MENT IN CO OPER ATION WITH ST. PAULI THE ATER

IF YOU HAVEN’T SEEN IT, YOU HAVEN’T SEEN BERLIN. ONLY UNTIL AUGUST!

THE BERLIN-MUSICAL WITH HITS BY UDO LINDENBERG.

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For more information on the where pass BERLIN, visit wherepassBERLIN.com

first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Zoo Palast

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers Englishlanguage screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalastberlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. Berlin is home to three T: 030.254010. opera houses: the Deutsche S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Tempodrom

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from Oper, the Staatsoper am classical concerts and pop-rock Schiller Theater, and the productions to mixed martial Komische Oper. arts and dance. www.tempodrom. A-Trane de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: Since 1992, this intimately sized but 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4 important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging Waldbühne and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, An outdoor arena for the biggest classical and rock Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, concerts. 2 Jul: Disney in Concert. 8, 9, 11 Jul: free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Rammstein. 16 Jul: Santiano. 21 Jul: Neil Young & Pestalozzistr. 105. Promise of the Real. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de. T: 030.3132550. Am Glockenturm. Tickets T: 01806.570070. S S Savignyplatz. B3/B4 Olympiastadion + bus. Off Map

Rock, Pop, Jazz

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 22 Jul: Papa Roach. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. 2 Jul: Soul Explosion. 5 Jul: Monsieur Periné. 9 Jul: Balkanbeats. 11 Jul: Juana Molina. 20 Jul: Sacred Reich. 24 Jul: The Oblivians. 27 Jul: Desorden Público. 31 Jul: The Dickies. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

A Slice Of Berlin’s Bawdy Past At once a celebration and condemnation of the city’s late-Weimar era, the musical Cabaret showcases the end of Berlin’s wildest and most storied epoch. The original 1966 Broadway production was such a hit that it spawned a film starring Liza Minnelli in her most famous – and Oscar-winning – role, as aspiring performer Sally Bowles. Based on Christopher Isherwood’s novel The Berlin Stories, Cabaret follows the free-spirited Bowles as she drags Berlin newcomer Brian Roberts through one scheme and antic after another, all set to the tune of a raucous soundtrack, including such favorites as Money, Don’t Tell Mama, and, of course, Willkommen. Tipi am Kanzleramt’s nostalgic supper-club setting brings the show to life as few other venues could. From 13 July. Tipi am Kanzleramt. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

cabaret, courtesy of tipi am kanzleramt.

Havanna

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cabaret, courtesy of tipi am kanzleramt.

Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Bimah, the Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but there are frequent Yiddish song performances. Check website for info. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstrasse. E3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: ROOTS , a new circus performance by Cirk La Putyka. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. Until 16 Jul: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. www. palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Beyond the Horizon The 1800-seat Theater Potsdamer Platz designed by Renzo Piano presents Beyond the Horizon, a musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de. Theater am Potsdamer Platz Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. Until 10 Jul: The 12 Tenors (Greatest Hits). 13–31 Jul: Cabaret, The Musical. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4 www.wheretraveler.com 57

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Beachy-Keen Berlin Berlin may be miles from the nearest ocean, but don’t tell that to its residents. When the mercury rises over 20C/68F, sandy oases crop up in pockets across the city, transforming the urban landscape into an ersatz tropical haven. The following is just a sampling of the surprising sun-soaked offerings the city has to offer. By far the most popular of Berlin’s beach bars, Strandbar Mitte (Monbijoustr. 3, www. strandbar-mitte.de) rolls out the chaise lounges each summer to a crowd eager to bask in the shade of palm trees, sip tropical drinks, and dance the night away under the stars. The bar’s location on the banks of the River Spree – the Bode Museum rising majestically in the background – provides all the aquatic atmosphere needed to transport you to tropical climes. Berlin’s ingenuity is not limited to converting an old airport into a city park. Over in the Treptow district lies – or floats, rather – the Badeschiff (literally, “bathing boat” – Eichenstr. 4, www.

arena-berlin.de), a 30m/100ft heated pool bobbing in the Spree River. Built from the converted hull of a boat, the creative recycling concept is a summer hot spot, and the adjacent shores overflow with bikinied bodies on warmer days, so arrive well before noon for your best chance at nabbing one of the coveted hammocks on the pier. And because the Badeschiff is part of the Arena entertainment complex, parties and concerts abound throughout the summer months. If it’s sand sports you’re after, head to BeachMitte (CarolineMichaelis-Str. 8, www.beachberlin.de) where more than 40 athletic courts await. Take your pick from beach volleyball, soccer, and tennis, then relax at the Hawaiian-themed beach bar, where you’ll find a mix of healthful snacks like wraps and smoothies and more indulgent fare – and of course, beer and wine

to refresh the spirit. If you’re still in need of an adrenaline rush, tempt fate on MountMitte, a megalithic ropes course (Kletterwald, in German) that features a classic Trabant car as one of its many obstacles. While a bit of a hike from city center, Ku’damm Beach (Königsallee 5b, www.kudamm-beach.de) offers a more upscale ambiance than its centralized brethren. Located out west in Wilmersdorf, the waterfront location affords magnificent views of Halensee lake, particularly when you’ve made yourself comfy on one of the dock chairs. And there's good news for Berliners: after a 10-year ban, starting this summer, the lake can finally be used again for swimming. Culinary options are far above the typical beach fare, with the on-site Grand Café serving high-end Italian cuisine with panoramas of the water.

Courtesy of strandbar mitte. inset: beach mitte

The ocean may be three hours away, but there's no shortage of beaches in Berlin. Jenna Rose Robbins spent a day by the water.

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Beer Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Casinos

selected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Gretchen The DJs play funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this international and eclectic Kreuzberg club. Occasional live concerts. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. T: 030.25922702. U Mehringdamm, U Hallesches Tor. E4

Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.weekend-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern

Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Clubs Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Amber Suite

courtesy of white trash fast food.

Courtesy of strandbar mitte. inset: beach mitte

For more information on the where pass BERLIN, visit wherepassBERLIN.com

This fun club for over-27s is the perfect place to socialize while dancing and drinking. There are two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609. U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultra-

There's a restaurant, a club, and a tattoo studio all under one roof at White Trash Fast Food in Friedrichshain. Am Flutgraben 2, www.whitetrashfastfood.com www.wheretraveler.com 59

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NIGHTLIFE interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

garde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www. hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Wine & Cocktails

Le Croco Bleu

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bebel Bar and Velvet Room The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer. 9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grandberlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242. T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

The Oscar Wilde Irish Pub The first Irish pub in Mitte, offering classics like Kilkenny and Guinness. Big screen for sporting events. Daily 10am-3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www. oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Friedrichstr. 112a. T: 030.2828166. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café Eat, drink, and be merry. It’s all possible at this 24hour spot, which combines a surprisingly elegant interior with an unpretentious atmosphere. Latenight kitchen and an affordable – not to mention exhaustive – cocktail menu. 24h daily except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and an elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. The Potsdamer Platz-adjacent bar attracts those seeking to enjoy an expertly mixed drink in a sophisticated setting. Daily 6:30pm–3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www. esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avant-

When it comes to club door policy, Berlin is, as it is with most things, relatively laid-back. Unlike most clubbing cities, Berlin nightlife leans toward casual attire and an even more casual attitude. Given the hype that the local party scene has reaped in recent years, however, lineups continue to grow ever longer and bouncers evermore discriminating. To get your foot in the door, just follow these basic pointers.

Totally Techno At techno and electronic music clubs, such as famed institutions like Berghain, Tresor, or Watergate, the unspoken dress code rule is casual-spiffy. One glance at the line and you’ll see that most Berliners head to such clubs wearing jeans and running shoes –though they may be designer jeans and the latest trendy runners that cost more than a month’s rent. The main rule with such clubs is to not look like you’re trying too hard and to sport the proper laid-back attitude, which means staying calm, cool, and confident while the bouncer gives the waiting hordes his eagle-eyed once-over.

Keeping Classy

Wirthaus zur Pfaueninsel (www.pfaueninsel.de) is the place to go for a cold beer after a walk on Peacock Island in Wannsee.

While techno clubs are almost exclusively clustered in the eastern side of the city, Berlin’s classier nightlife locales are scattered throughout. At clubs like The Pearl, PURO Sky Lounge, Asphalt, and Bar Tausend, the key is to dress to impress. The chic-and-sleek look will get you far here, and unlike everywhere else in the city, designer logos and teetering high heels will fit right in.

Bar Tausend

Knock-Knock, Who’s There?

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THE GUIDE | ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

ASK THE CONCIERGE

CLASSIC OPEN AIR: © DAVIDS; ALTES ZOLLHAUS: COURTESY OF ALTES ZOLLHAUS; ARMINIUS MARKTHALLE: COURTESY OF ARMINIUS MARKTHALLE.

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Lutz Schneider, head concierge at the Westin Grand Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does it mean to you personally to wear the Golden Keys? To assume responsibility in ensuring an optimal stay for our guests and to offer the best service. In addition, I have a worldwide network.

400 rooms, uniquely located in the city’s historical center on the corner of Friedrichstraße and Unter den Linden. Its 30-meter high atrium is truly impressive and features the most beautiful staircase in Berlin. My tip is to visit the 3000sq.m. hotel garden.

What does your perfect day look like? My perfect day is a day in which I have made all my guests happy.

What are your wildest experiences as a concierge? The period after the Berlin Wall came down and the Orient Express train visit, with their historic ball.

Where do you take your visitors? To the Reichstag, Berlin Wall Memorial, Galeries Lafayette, Scheunenviertel around Hackescher Markt, and Mitte’s historical center. Secret Berlin tips? The Hoppegarten race track, Clärchens Ballhaus, and the Arminius Markthalle in Moabit. Describe Berlin in three words. Young, innovative, and different every day. What do you do after work? I explore new restaurants and go to the theater and opera, so I can give our guests recommendations based on first-hand experience. Tell us about your hotel. The Westin Grand Berlin is a luxury hotel with

What events do you recommend in July? The open-air events on Museum Island, the Classic Open Air concert on Gendarmenmarkt, and tango at Strandbar Mitte. Coziest spot in Berlin? On the banks of the Spree and on the shores of the lakes in and around Berlin. But I also recommend the restaurant Altes Zollhaus, and, of course, our lobby. Tips for a German speciality? Rinderroulade mit Apfelrotkohl (beef roulade with red cabbage and apple). Images: Clockwise from top: the Classic Open Air festival at Gendarmenmarkt; Altes Zollhaus; The Arminius Markthalle.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for www.wheretraveler.com 61

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For more information on the where pass BERLIN, visit wherepassBERLIN.com

This busy junction for commuters heading into and out of Prenzlauer Berg has undergone various name changes throughout its lifetime. First opened in 1913 under the name Danziger Straße, the East Berlin station was renamed Dimitroffstraße after WWII in honor of the president of Bulgaria, a fellow Eastern Bloc country. The current name has only been around since 1990. Throughout all the changes, one thing has remained constant: the famous Konnopke’s currywurst stand under the elevated station’s tracks, which dates back to 1930.

Want even more expert tips for the best food and drink around town? We asked the concierges from Berlin’s top hotels about their favorite spots:

Christoph Hundehege, Waldorf Astoria Hotel Dinner Bocca di Bacco (Friedrichstr. 167, www.boccadibacco.de). The best of Italian cuisine, in the heart of Mitte. Austeria Brasserie (Hundekehlestr. 33, www.austeria-brasserie.de) Oysters, seafood, and other French delights.

Drinks Lost in Grub Street (Jägerstr. 4, www.lostingrubstreet.de). Old-timey bowls of punch to share with friends. Stagger Lee (Nollendorfstr. 27, www.staggerlee.de). Great cocktails and a chic Wild West look.

Robert Helfrich, Louisa’s Place Dinner Le Petit Royal (Grolmanstr. 59, www.lepetitroyal.de). Top steaks and seafood in French brasserie style. Dae Mon (Monbijouplatz 11, www.dae-mon. com). Korean-influenced fine dining.

Drinks Galander (Stuttgarter Platz 15, www.galander-berlin.de). Exceptional cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. The Hat (Lotta-Lenya-Bogen 550, www.thehatbar.de). Jazz and drinks with a 1920s film noir vibe.

€17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

Toll number: 0180.6003690

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange The interior of Dae Mon

Eberswalder Straße (U2)

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

IST TOUCROUNT DIS PASS

Where Pass Berlin

The city of Berlin is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass Berlin makes experiencing the city convenient and hassle-free for travelers. Users of the Where Pass Berlin are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, gain discounted access to top attractions, and find valuable information in the included Berlin guidebook. Immerse yourself in everything Berlin has to offer with the Where Pass Berlin – visit www. wherepassberlin.com for details.

Cityscape: © shutterstock/lisa kolbasa. STATION: © ISTOCK

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Where now | KILIAN KERNER

Kilian Kerner [Fashion Designer]

Though he originally studied acting, not fashion, once Kilian Kerner discovered his love of design, there was no stopping him. Since launching his label in 2004, he’s risen to the upper fashion ranks and counts numerous celebrities among his devoted fans. His menswear and womenswear is sold today in boutiques around the world, as well as in his boutique at Schlüterstr. 50. www.kiliankerner.de What makes Berlin an inspirational place to be a designer, and what influence does the city have on your work? Berlin tastes different. Berlin smells different. Berlin is simply Berlin, and that is just inspirational. Things that are different and striking – that’s what Berlin is for me. I love to soak it all up. What is a must-have item from your current collection? Any of the styles with birds on them. They’re very distinctive and yet down-to-earth. The parka with birds is my absolute favorite piece. It combines well with others. If it’s cold, it looks great over every outfit, or even with jeans and a sweater – it accentuates every look. Your flagship store is in the west, in Charlottenburg. What do you think is unique about this area? It’s peaceful, even though there is always lots going on. Charlottenburg is beautiful – this is where Berlin shows its most charming side and it’s just pleasant to spend time there.

There are many nice restaurants and cafés. The Kurfürstendamm is iconic and is undergoing a comeback, which I think is great. My first memories of Berlin involve Kurfürstendamm, and to have my shop there today, right around the corner from brands like Chanel and Prada, is just amazing. If Berlin were a person, what would be their style? Probably a pretty tough person, who couldn’t make up their mind about how to dress. Let’s say Friedrichshain on the top, Charlottenburg in the middle, and Prenzlauer Berg down below. What neighborhood do you live in, and what are some favorite things about it? In Friedrichshain, which wasn’t my top choice, but the apartment was so amazing, I couldn’t say no. I like the street Stralauer Allee a lot. I can still get a strong sense of Berlin’s history

there. Unfortunately there’s been a lot of construction and some of the flair has been lost, but I still like it. My favorite restaurant in Friedrichshain is Schneeweiß (Simplonstr. 16). They do a brunch that is just incomparable. Imagine it’s beautiful outside, and you have the entire day off. How would you spend the day? I would start the day by playing tennis, which is just a fantastic thing to do when the weather is nice. Then I would head to Alexanderplatz to do some shopping. For me, Alexanderplatz is still the place that feels most like Berlin to me. In the evening, I would go for a walk, anywhere really – I just love taking walks. It’s a great way to do some peoplewatching. Clockwise from top left: Alexanderplatz; Kilian Kerner; Charlottenburg facades; A look by Kilian Kerner; A Ku'damm café; Breakfast at Schneeweiss.

Alexanderplatz, charlottenburg facades, ku'damm café: ©istock photo; Kilian kerner: courtesy of sw presse; kerner look: © schmidt& gorges. schneeweiss: courtesy of schneeweiss.

My Berlin

66 W H E R E B E R L I n I J u LY 2016

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Two Millennia of German Jewish History in Daniel Libeskind‘s landmark building

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