Where Magazin April 2016 by Where Berlin/ DINAMIX Media GmbH

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Berlin

CONTENTS

04.16 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

SHOPPING

4 Editor’s Note

6 Hot Dates

Follow your nose to the sweetest-smelling stores in town.

Highlights of this month's events, from Whitney Houston to the Beatles.

SIGHTSEEING

XX mayors, and impostors Kings, Köpenick in the city's south-east is steeped in history and nature.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Eat your way through Austria's XX beloved culinary most export - the schnitzel.

66 My Perfect Day

Also Inside

Where Now 10 Go West

61 Ask The Concierge

Charlottenburg, Berlin's original cool neighborhood, is staging a comeback.

Thomas Munko from the Ritz-Carlton Berlin shares his eating recommendations.

Berlin

BY HILDA HOY

14 Eponymous Streets

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ENTERTAINMENT

Your guide to Mozart's Magic Flute – an ode to the values of German Enlightenment.

16 Pure Science

Drinkers and brewers alike know not all beers are created equal.

18 From Tip To Toe

BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS

BY CLAUDIA KOKSCH

ESSENTIALS

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

Behind every street name lies a great story. Stroll along to find out more.

NIGHTLIFE

The chemistry between Berlin and science is bubbling with dissections, experiments, fossils, and more.

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

Ladies and gentlemen, it's time for a dapper new look.

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POTSDAMER PL.

ON THE COVER

The Where Pass provides visitors with exceptional discounts to the city’s must-see attractions with integrated transport ticket. Visiting Berlin has never been more convenient. See wherepassberlin.com for more details

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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Look West

Sights and scenes of Berlin's western half, from celebrity portraits at the Helmut Newton Foundation to concept malls and sophisticated nightlife

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INTRODUCING THE WHERE PASS

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Sophie von Oswald As organiser of Das Brunch, she knows where to go for that most important meal of day.

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DINING

RECORD STORE: © ISTOCK PHOTO; BEER SHELVES: COURTESY OF KASCHK BEER; BETTE DAVIS 1939, COURTESY OF MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN; KAISER WILHELM MEMORIAL CHURCH: © ISTOCK PHOTO; SOPHIE VON OSWALD: PHOTO BY REBECCA CRAWFORD

Take XX a journey through German cinematic history at the Museum for Film and Television.

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With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

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The international history of espionage from the spies mentioned in the bible to the whistleblowers and big data in the present, shown in 14 thematic areas with more than 350 exhibits in 32.000 sq ft space.

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THE WHOLE WORLD OF ESPIONAGE

There's nothing like spring in Berlin. With the first rays of sun, smiles and sunshades instantly reappear on the Berliners' faces, and everybody rushes out to absorb as many UV rays as possible. As for me, I have made it an absolute priority this month to finally go visit the Gärten der Welt in Marzahn (www.gruen-berlin. de/gaerten-der-welt), which combines landscape architecture and art featuring 21 acres of gardens arranged in different styles, from Japanese, Balinese, and Korean to the classic Italian Renaissance garden, with its mazes and geometric bushes. And there are many other fabulous green areas in Berlin, from the parks of Köpenick (p. 34) to Britzer Garten with its tulip show (p. 7), or the good old Tiergarten with its lovely pond-side Café am Neuen See (p. 51). Whatever your Berlin itinerary this month, I have just one suggestion: Stay outside as much as you can, and take in the beauty of the Berlin spring!

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In Berlin, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a supporter of Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland eV/Les Clefs D'Or Germany and a member of Berlin Partner.

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HOT

DATES April in Berlin is packed with events, from living cartoons to vinyl celebrations and film festivals.

RECORD STORE DAY

16 SATURDAY

Vinyl fans, mark your calendars. Every third Saturday of April, independent record shops across the globe open their doors to fans, with discounts, in-store gigs, and live performances. This year, twenty Berlin Plattenläden — including vinyl paradise Core Tex in Kreuzberg — participate in the celebration of all things music. Visit the website for participating stores. www.recordstoredaygermany.de

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MUSIC AND TULIPS AT BRITZER GARTEN FROM SUNDAY

Celebrate the first blooms of the season with a special Frühling (spring) concert performed by the Brandenburg Police Orchestra at Britzer Garten. Toward the end of the month, return for the park’s annual Tulpenschau, when more than one million tulips explode with color in a multitude of varieties. Because Mother Nature can’t always be predicted, the festival’s exact dates are usually announced around the first week of April, so check the website. www.gruen-berlin.de/britzer-garten

THE SESSIONS THURSDAY

Who doesn't wish they could have witnessed the Beatles’ recording sessions at Abbey Road? THE SESSIONS is a spectacular tribute to the Fab Four and their time at the legendary North London studio, presented as a reality-style live restaging. Relive some of the most important moments in Beatles history and experience the creation of songs like Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, Let It Be, A Day in the Life, and more, all at Mercedes-Benz-Arena. www.thesessionslive.com

FROM FRIDAY

THE LIVING PAPER CARTOON

Inspired by the carnival costumes of Venice, Italian actor and quick-change artist Ennio Marchetto combines lip-synching, caricature, impressions, and exaggerated facial expressions with strategic costume changes carried out by quickly unfolding, twisting, or flipping his intricately engineered paper figures. Watch him transform from Mary Poppins to E.T., Jesus to Angela Merkel. Until 14 April at www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

THE WHITNEY HOUSTON SHOW

From the release of her debut album in 1986, Whitney Houston never stopped breaking music-industry records. In addition to becoming the first artist to chart seven consecutive No. 1 hits, Houston — who earned the nickname “The Voice” due to her vocal abilities — was also recognized by Guinness World Records as the most awarded female act of all time. Pay tribute to the late pop diva at the eponymously named show at Admiralspalast, in which Belinda David convincingly belts out hits — I Will Always Love You, I Wanna Dance With Somebody — in Houston’s trademark style. www.mehr.de

SATURDAY

FROM WEDNESDAY

ACHTUNG FILM FESTIVAL

One of Berlin’s biggest cinematic festivals features works that were shot, at least in part, in and around the German capital. Founded in 2004, the weeklong event offers guests the chance to view features before their release, as well as shorts and documentaries that might otherwise go overlooked. Most films screen at Mitte’s Kino Babylon; check website for details. www.achtungberlin.de

8 FRIDAY

ROCK MEETS CLASSIC

For the seventh year in a row, the celebrated tour combines famed rock hits with moving classical masterpieces in a three-hour musical journey. With guest stars such as Joey Tempest (lead singer of Europe), Dan McCafferty (lead singer of Nazareth), and music phenomenon Midge Ure, the show is a veritable who’s-who of rock ‘n’ roll. Supported by both a band and orchestra, the artists heat up Tempodrom with rock anthems like you’ve never heard them before. www.rockmeetsclassic.de

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Peruse and purchase fine arts during the three-day European Days of Crafts. The colorful, celebrated adaptation of The Magic Flute returns to Komische Oper tonight. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Delve into a world of intrigue at the recently opened Spy Museum by Potsdamer Platz. Animal Collective, the influential noise-rock band, plays the Postbahnhof Club. Turkish troupe Fire of Anatolia heats up the stage at Tempodrom. Last chance! The Cindy Sherman exhibition at me Collectors Room ends Sunday. Experience a new take on your favorite hits with Rock Meets Classic at Tempodrom. Admire the artful dancers of the Staatsballett performing choreography by Duato/Kylian. Celebrate Philip Rosenthal's 100th birthday with the special exhibition at KaDeWe. Up-and-coming Nigerian hip-hopper Nneka sings at Heimathafen Neukölln. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Norwegian sensation a-ha of Take on Me fame reunites at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Tap your toes to Max Raabe and his 1920s Palast Orchester at Admiralspalast. Prepare the kleenex – the Staatsballett dances the tragic Romeo and Juliet tonight. English troubadour James Morrison croons Wonderful World at Huxleys Neue Welt. Picasso fans won't want to miss the collection of masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen. After a seven-year hiatus, icon Janet Jackson returns to play at Max-Schmeling-Halle. Visit Chamäleon Varieté to watch Czech circus masters at work in the ROOTS show. Put your dancing shoes on – playful synthpop duo Stereo Total performs at Lido. Bee Gees fans will delight in the Massachusetts musical at Tempodrom. Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park. Enjoy a Saturday night out at Kreuzberg's craft cocktail hangout, the John Muir bar. Sundays are for brunching. Enjoy the Russian spread at Datscha, Gabriel-Max-Str. 1. Take a day trip south to see spring blooming in Potsdam's beautiful Sanssouci gardens. Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegasstyle show at Friedrichstadt-Palast. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Visit Britzer Garten to see colorful fields of tulips, one of the highlights of Berlin spring. Grammy-nominee Adam Lambert rocks out at Huxley's Neue Welt. Enjoy some lively classic operetta with a performance of Clivia at Komische Oper.

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section

RECORD STORE © ISTOCK PHOTO; BRITZER GARTEN: PHOTO © HOLGER KOPPATSCH MELL; THE SESSIONS LIVE, COURTESY OF THE SESSIONS/PROMOTION; ENNIO MARCHETTO: COURTESY OF ENNIOMARCHETTO.COM; WHITNEY HOUSTON SHOW: COURTESY OF THE WHITNEY HOUSTON SHOW; FILM SLATE: © ISTOCK PHOTO; ROCK MEETS CLASSIC, JOEY TEMPEST: COURTESY OF TRINITY MUSIC.

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WOW-Effect Inside Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz

www.sonycenter.de/en

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WHERE NOW | WEST BERLIN

or years, the city’s central and eastern districts have been hogging all the attention. Development money poured into Mitte, leading to a surge in hotels, shopping, real estate, and tourism. Kreuzberg’s and Neukölln’s reputation for coolness spread far and wide, drawing new residents in expats and local hipsters and earning gushy accolades from international media. Young families and upwardly mobile yuppies staked their claim in pretty Prenzlauer Berg. All that time, however, one of Berlin’s original neighborhoods of cool has been waiting in the wings. And now, Charlottenburg is shedding its old image and stands ready to stage its comeback. Broaden your horizons and head west to explore a new side to the city.

Above: The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Opposite page from left: Monkey Bar on the top floor of the 25hours Hotel; A portrait of Mick Jagger by Greg Gorman and a magazine photo by Helmut Newton both featured in the exhibition Pages from the Glossies at the Helmut Newton Foundation

THE BEST OF THE WEST The unofficial center of the west is Charlottenburg’s Zoologischer Garten, a hub on the regional train, S-Bahn, and U-Bahn networks. The station earned widespread notoriety in the 1980s with the cult movie Christiane F. – We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, the gritty true story of teenagers caught up in the heroin and hustling scene around the station. The area has mostly lost that rough edge over the years, and radiating out from the station are the district’s biggest landmarks: the zoo (p. 38) in Tiergarten, with the sprawling adjoining park; the Kurfürstendamm, a major shopping boulevard in eras past as well as today; and eye-catching architectural standouts such as the retro-chic Bikini-Haus and the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (p. 35). The church, its bombed-out tower left standing as a reminder of the horrors of war, is one of the few remaining signs of how the vicinity would have looked a century ago. To explore the area’s highlights on foot, start with a visit inside the Memorial Church on Breitscheidplatz, then do some browsing at BIKINI BERLIN (p. 21) across the street. This concept mall, which opened in late 2014

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THIS PAGE: THE GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE: © ISTOCK PHOTO; BIKINI HAUS MONKEY BAR, COURTESY OF MONKEY

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THIS PAGE: THE GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE: © ISTOCK PHOTO; BIKINI HAUS MONKEY BAR, COURTESY OF MONKEY BAR; MICK JAGGER: GREG GORMAN: MICK JAGGER. DAYLIGHT WALL, LOS ANGELES, 1984. © GREG GORMAN; COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN; HELMUT NEWTON: FRENCH VOGUE. MELBOURNE, 1973. © HELMUT NEWTON ESTATE.

O WEST in the renovated, 1950s-era Bikini-Haus building, features a rotating selection of local, independent designers as well as toplevel peeks into the neighboring zoo. Take a stroll down Tauentzienstraße to KaDeWe (p. 21), a massive luxury department store so iconic that, in the days after the Berlin Wall came down, the neighborhood was flooded with East Berliners eager to gawk at the famous consumerist emblem. Continue meandering down the elegant Kurfürstendamm – or Ku’damm, as the locals call it – with its luxury boutiques, and take frequent detours to explore the scenic side streets. End your tour at Savignyplatz with a drink on one of the sidewalk terraces looking onto the charming, green square. If a bird’s-eye view has more allure, head back to where you started and take the elevator to the top floor of BIKINI BERLIN’s 25hours Hotel. With stunning views and great drinks, the penthouse Monkey Bar (Budapester Str. 40, www.25hours-hotels. com) is the perfect spot to soak up the area’s contemporary vibe.

Berlin’s storied western district of Charlottenburg is staging a comeback. Hilda Hoy explored the cultural, historical, and commercial highlights of the area, both past and present.

A CENTER FOR CULTURE Just behind Zoologischer Garten station Once upon a time, not so very long ago, is a grand 1900s building that houses the Charlottenburg was known for its nightlife. Museum for Photography (p. 42), a must In the late 1970s and ‘80s, the likes of David for any fan of this diverse medium. On Bowie, Iggy Pop, and the movers and shakers exhibit this month are iconic images by the of Berlin’s experimental scene flocked to the late great Helmut Newton, as well as eyelegendary Dschungel club in Nürnberger catching celebrity portraits by Greg Gorman Straße, which has since been replaced by (pictured below). A more recent arrival to the the Ellington Hotel. The club Linientreu in area – and a fitting neighbor to the Museum the basement of the for Photography – is “When the Wall fell, the Bikini-Haus building C/O Berlin (p. 44), with is also no more; the numerous exhibition neighborhood was flooded popular attraction with East Berliners eager to see spaces dedicated for new-wave fans in to contemporary the KaDeWe.” the 1980s counted photography. Depeche Mode amongst its regulars. Originally located in Mitte, C/O moved to These days, the Charlottenburg scene has Charlottenburg in 2014, cementing the rather changed, and its most popular clubs area’s reputation as Berlin’s photography – like Puro Sky Lounge (p. 60) and The Pearl nexus. There’s also Camera Work (Kantstr. (p. 60) – are known not for their edginess 149, www.camerawork.de), another nearby but for being chic, exclusive, and highly gallery of photography, plus the Leica store particular about dress code. Better to count (Fasanenstr. 71, www.leica-store-berlin. on Charlottenburg not for party culture de), purveyor of photography books and but for high culture: art, photography, and cutting-edge equipment from the renowned literature are what the area excels at. German camera maker.

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WHERE NOW | WEST BERLIN

Right across the street lie two more classic The French specialties like oyster, filet cultural institutions. Although the readings, mignon, and escargots may no longer talks, and other events at the Literaturhaus be deemed the best in town, but the (Fasanenstr. 23, www.literaturhaus-berlin. ambiance alone merits a visit. Just down de) are in German, the elegant Café the street is Schwarzes Café (Kantstr. 148), Wintergarten in this historic villa knows no a lively local hangout since the late 1970s, language barriers. with two floors of Settle into one of the “ Today, Charlottenburg’s clubs wooden tables and wooden banquettes atmospheric nooks are known not for their to sip a coffee or a and crannies. Contrary edginess, but for being chic glass of crisp German to what the name white wine and you’ll suggests, this is much and exclusive” feel like part of Berlin’s more than a café: It 1920s intelligentsia. Afterwards, head next also serves drinks and complete meals 24 door to the Käthe Kollwitz Museum (p. 41), hours a day. There’s probably nowhere else dedicated to the moving, intensely human in the city where you can get a mediumwork of one of Germany’s most prominent rare steak and a proper martini at 4am. 20th-century artists. After that, mosey over to A-Trane (p. 54), a nearby jazz club that is one of Berlin’s AFTER NIGHTFALL top venues for live music. Over the past Once you’re sated on culture and fixing for decades, A-Trane has hosted jazz greats a little debauchery, the first stop should be like Wynton Marsalis and Herbie Hancock, Charlottenburg’s most iconic restaurant, as well as local acts. Settle into a corner Paris Bar (p. 49). Since the 1950s, the table with a tall glass of pilsner and let the artsy brasserie has drawn such stars as sounds and scenery carry you away. It’s all Madonna, Robert De Niro, and Sophia part of the cultural fabric of one of Berlin’s Loren, not to mention Bowie and Pop. most storied and unique districts.

DON’T MISS

∙

Schloss Charlottenburg is one of the district’s greatest attractions. Built in the baroque style in the 17th century to house the Prussian royal family, the palace features a splendid interior and a beautiful, sprawling back garden that is free and open to the public.

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Until next fall, Charlottenburg will continue to be home to not one, but two opera houses: the Deutsche Oper and the Staatsoper, which has temporarily moved out west to the Schiller Theater while its home theater on Mitte’s Unter den Linden undergoes extensive renovation. Both host regular ballets by the Berlin Staatsballett; productions this month include Giselle and the timeless Romeo and Juliet.

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Manufactum, a cult German retailer for top-quality, traditionally made homewares, has its Berlin flagship in Charlottenburg at Hardenbergstr. 4-5. Don’t miss its neighboring brot&butter café and deli, which makes some of the best baguettes and croissants in the city.

KÄTHE KOLLWITZ MUSEUM: COURTESY OF KÄTHE KOLLWITZ MUSEUM; PARIS BAR: © ISTOCK PHOTO; AMERIKA HAUS DRAUSSEN, COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN.

Clockwise form top left: The exhibition at the Käthe Kollwitz Museum; Sitting outside at Paris Bar; The Amerika Haus building, now housing the C/O Berlin photography gallery.

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WHERE NOW | STREETS

Jenna Rose Robbins took a stroll to uncover the stories behind the people remembered on the city’s signage.

Top: KaDeWe, on Tauentzienstraße. Bottom: Café Sibylle on Karl-Marx-Allee.

What remains is a maze of streets whose names reflect multiple time periods and the people who defined their eras. The biographies of each are more than worth delving into, but here’s a brief peek into how each earned their honor – as well as the sights to be found on the boulevards bearing their names. PAULLINCKEUFER Even many Berliners aren’t familiar with the name of the composer who wrote the unofficial city anthem, Berliner Luft, in 1922. Today, Lincke is commemorated with the road that runs parallel to the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg – thus the Ufer (“river bank” or “shore”) in the name. Water views make this a highly desired street to live on, while upscale eateries draw both residents and visitors. For dining worthy of two Michelin stars, head to Horvath (n. 44A), where chef Sebastian Frank recreates the nostalgia of his Austrian childhood. Just a stone’s throw away lies the picturesque Spindler (n. 42), where German cuisine is the focus. For a more laidback atmosphere, Cocolo (n. 39-40) offers what many consider the best ramen in town. ROSALUXEMBURGSTRASSE Some might find it ironic that a street named for a murdered Communist is now smack dab in the middle of one of Berlin’s centers of capitalism. Running north between Alexanderplatz and Hackescher Markt, RosaLuxemburg-Straße is chock full of galleries, concept stores, and restaurants both fine and casual, and if you don’t find what you’re looking for on this street, you’re bound to find it on one of the many that crisscross the surrounding Mitte neighborhood, which features charming cobblestone streets and narrow alleys. Shop MYKITA (n. 6) for the latest

in eyewear, Type Hype (n. 9-13), then head to Blush Dessous (n. 22) for 1950s-style lingerie that features designs made right here in Berlin. TAUENTZIENSTRASSE When the Ku’damm (as locals refer to Kurfürstendamm) hits the Charlottenburg/ Schöneberg border, it becomes Tauentzienstraße — and the shopping just keeps going, culminating at KaDeWe (n. 21-24), the largest department store on the continent. Although the majority of the upscale brands are located back in Charlottenburg, wardrobe staples abound at Mango (n. 17), Forever 21 (n. 13), and the German flagship store for UNIQLO (n. 7b/c). And if learning to pronounce this shopping street’s name gives you pause, you’ll be thankful to know that it was shortened from the full Bogislav Friedrich Emanuel von Tauentzien, a Prussian general during the Napoleonic wars. KARLMARXALLEE While even those with little knowledge of history will recognize the name of socialist Karl Marx, few know the story of his eponymous boulevard, which was modeled after Paris’ Champs-Elysees but with a socialist framework. Known originally as Große Frankfurter Straße, then as Stalinallee, the 90m (300ft)-wide road is now considered a historic landmark. Stroll the boulevard to admire the architecture, popping in at Briefmarken (n. 99) for authentic Italian fare and an enormous range of wines, or Café Sibylle (n. 72), a throwback to when the street lay in the former GDR. The East German architecture and undubbed films that show at the Kino International (n. 33) attract cinephiles from around town.

KADEWE: © ISTOCK PHOTO; CAFÉ SIBYLLE: COURTESY OF CAFÉ SIBYLLE.

ith a history stretching back more than 750 years, Berlin’s streets each have a story of their own. After the fall of the Weimar Republic, many of the streets were rechristened – only to be changed after the city was divided, and changed yet again after reunification.

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LINEN COTTON JACkET 79,90 € PREmIUm LINEN LONG SLEEvE SHIRT 39,90 € dRY FLAT FRONT PANTS 39,90 €

NATURAL BEAUTY IT’S A COmFORT IN ONE’S OwN SkIN, A mOdERN LOOk SPUN FROm STRANdS OF NATURAL FIBER, dESIGNEd FOR LIFE TOdAY. UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE · Tauentzienstr. 7 B/C UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ · Leipziger Platz 16 Shop online www.uniqlo.com/de Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 08.03.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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WHERE NOW | SCIENCE

SCIENCE Stuck between a Bunsen burner and a seed collection, Solveig Steinhardt examined the chemistry between the German capital and what Kant called “organized knowledge.”

erlin’s fame as a science city dates back to 1700, when Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz founded the Society of Scientists, later to become the Berlin Academy of Science. In the following centuries, the academy hosted some of the world’s most influential thinkers, including mathematicians Leonhard Euler and JosephLouis Lagrange, Prussian geographer and naturalist Alexander von Humboldt, father of modern bacteriology Robert Koch, and physicists Max Planck and Albert Einstein. Today, three city universities keep the

scientific tradition alive, but if even you’re not planning on getting another degree, there are numerous other ways to discover the city’s scientific side. Spring is without a doubt the best time of year to visit the lush forests and tropical greenhouses in Dahlem’s Botanischer Garten (p. 38). Part of the Freie Universität, the botanical gardens host an important seed bank and an old-fashioned but informative museum on botany and plant diversity. If you’re aiming to unleash your inner naturalist, go beyond plants to explore the animal kingdom at the Museum für

Naturkunde (Natural History Museum, p. 42). The Mitte museum hosts the largest mounted dinosaur skeleton in the world, that of the Giraffatitan, which dino-savvy children will surely recognize as a member of the Brachiosauride family. Don’t miss the fossil of the famous Archaeopterix, known as the missing link between dinosaurs and birds; a prize-winning collection of mounted animal dioramas; and, since last December, Tristan, the first-ever T. rex skeleton in Europe. Aspiring and wannabe doctors will appreciate the Museum of Medical History (Charitéplatz 1, www.bmm-charite.de) of the

THIS PAGE: A MACAQUE CRANIUM, PHOTO BY SCHAEDEL. NEXT PAGE: THE TELESCOPE AT THE WILHELM FORSTER STERNWARTE PLANETARIUM, COURTESY OF WILHELM FORSTER STERNWARTE; TAXIDERMISTS PREPARE BOBBY, 1934, COURTESY OF MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE; THE BIODIVERSITY WALL, COURTESY OF MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE; ZOOLOGICAL PREPARATIONS: COURTESY OF NATURKUNDE MUSEUM

PURE

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Charité Hospital, where they can lay their hands on a real dissection table, spend time in an old anatomical theater, and examine a vast collection of jarred disease specimens in the large (and rather spooky) pathological anatomy section. (Note: Due to the mature nature of the items on display, under-16s must be accompanied by an adult.) The Menschen Museum (p. 42) on Alexanderplatz provides a (slightly) less morbid and more artistic approach to anatomy, displaying Gunther von Hagens’

famous preparations of 200 human body parts and 20 whole bodies in plastic poses. The exhibition focuses on specific organs and diseases and there are no age restrictions, but squeamish kids should be prepared in advance. For more universal scientific themes, the Wilhelm Forster Sternwarte planetarium (Munsterdamm 90, Lankwitz, www. planetarium-berlin.de) has a Cosmorama projector to show what the night sky has looked like at various times in history, while the Spectrum Science Center (Möckernstr. 26, www.sdtb.de) provides the opportunity to perform hands-on experiments on

various scientific phenomena. And if you like your sciences in their applied version, you’ll love the Deutsches Technikmuseum (Museum of Technology, p. 41) next door, where you’ll be greeted outside by a Douglas C-47B “Raisin Bomber” before entering a world full of printing techniques, original aircraft, and historic trains that you can climb aboard and explore.

VISITING EINSTEIN During his 15-year Berlin stay, Albert Einstein lived in Haberlandstr. 5 (number 3 today) near Bayerischer Platz. In 1933, while he was visiting the US, the Nazis publicly burned all books written by Jews, including his. He realized he could not go back to Berlin, and soon after settled in New Jersey.

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WHERE NOW | SPRING SHOPPING

FROM

TIP TOE

Time for a dapper new look with Claudia Koksch's picks for the season.

1. Barbour, Kurf端rstendamm 26A. 2. UNIQLO, Tauentzienstr. 7b/c. 3. Bree, Kurf端rstendamm 36. 4. Navyboot, Mall of Berlin,

Leipziger Platz 12.

5. Barbour, Kurf端rstendamm 26A. 6. Barbour Heritage Store, Alte Sch旦nhauser Str. 39.

7. Navyboot, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

8. Massimo Dutti, Friedrichstr. 83.

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

ACTIVE BREEZE FEEL THE BREEZE EFFECT

STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

The flower shop at Departmentstore Quartier 206

Scents & The City Spring marks the time we set our senses free after the long winter and open up to new experiences. And with the first wafts of flower-scented air, our sense of smell starts craving new stimuli more than ever. To greet the change of season head on, here’s a tour for sophisticated noses. Start at the flower shop inside the Departmentstore concept store, within luxury mall Quartier 206 (Friedrichstr. 71). With a skilled florist and a splendorous selection of blossoms sourced from all over the world, this is the ideal spot to breathe in exotic, redolent bouquets — that are also pleasing to look at. At Berlin's own niche perfume house Frau Tonis (Zimmerstr. 13), you can mix your own sweet-smelling vials, while historic perfume factory Harry Lehmann (Kantstr. 106) still makes fragrances by hand, just like they did when they started out in 1926. But if you

really want to pamper your nose to the max, look for maisoap berlin (www.maisoap.de) at the Boxhagener Platz and Mauerpark weekend flea markets. The family business has been manufacturing soaps in Kreuzberg since 2006, using only high-quality essential oils to create scrumptious scents, such as ginger vanilla and coconut lemongrass. For something to please the palate as well, visit Markthalle Neun (Eisenbahnstr. 42-43), one of Berlin’s few remaining historical indoor markets — and now a hip foodie destination. While a walk through the stalls is already a feast for your olfactory system, the freshly baked Italian ciabattas at Milan bakery Sironi are simply irresistible for any nose. For the complete aromatherapy experience, enter a branch of the Rituals chain (www. rituals.com), whose collection of exclusive home fragrances and body-care products is sure to loosen all tension and transform

everyday routines into special moments. Or head to Berlin-based tea shop P & T - Paper & Tea (Alte Schönhauser Str. 50, www. paperandtea.com), whose minimalist interior accentuates the multisensory experience of sniffing and tasting rare blends from the four corners of the world. Diehard tea lovers can find on-the-go packages, or even attend a tea seminar at the brand's Charlottenburg outpost (Bleibtreustr. 4).

A line by Rituals

flower shop: courtesy of departmentstore 206; rituals: courtesy of rituals.

Now that spring has sprung, Annabelle Mallia sheds the layers and freely follows her nose.

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flower shop: courtesy of departmentstore 206; rituals: courtesy of rituals.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 22 May, 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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Special exhibition at the KaDeWe | Tauentzienstraße 21 – 24 29. 03. – 27. 04. 2016 celebrating the 100th birthday of Philip Rosenthal

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ROLEX BOUTIQUE

ROSENTHAL

bagatt Milano

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

Discover the unexpected: Germany's leading porcelain brand is a platform for ideas, art, design, furniture, and lifestyle. Admire its latest collection of exquisite porcelain pieces at the Rosenthal flagship store in Berlin.

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de

Kurfürstendamm 200. T: 030 88681574 www.rosenthal.de

Epitomizing the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known, bagatt Milano stands for fine Italian craftsmanship, applying these high quality standards into its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. From contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear to elegant heels, the bagatt Milano store is a shoe-lover’s paradise. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777 bagattberlino@gmail.com

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BERLIN BERLIN

F R I E D R I C H S T R A S S E 176 - 17 9 K U R F Ü R S T E N D A M M 19 5

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shop stop

VOLKER LANG STORE

WOLFEN

Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories. The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since. Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Since 2001, this Berlin-based brand has been providing both ladies and gents with timeless knitwear items, from scarves and ties to cardigans, bags, and blouses. Made only with natural fibers, all products are individually manufactured and finished by hand.

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de

Auguststr. 41. T: 030 49781966. www.wolfengermany.com

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BY ANNE FASHION STORE Get styled! BY ANNE FASHION STORE offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels, such as Denmark’s NÜ, Mos Mosh, Gustav or FOX'S, together with other accessories and artwork to express your individuality.

Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030 28879436 www.byanne.de

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An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 http://de.neweracap.eu

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Looking for a new cap? The largest and fastest growing headwear manufacturer in the world has a flagship store in Berlin, with more than 1000 cap styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd.

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HOME ON EARTH

ONEPIECE

BOOTS & SHOES

Barcelona-founded Home on earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp, this store just opened its first branch in Berlin.

This popular Norwegian apparel brand conquered the world of fashion thanks to its jumpsuits, which celebrities simply adore. Try one on at the Onepiece shop, where you will also find a huge variety of leisurewear, including pants, hoodies, shirts, dresses, and much more. Show this page and get 15% off.

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots have been a fashion statement since 1960. At Boots & Shoes, you can choose from many designs and colors of the legendary boot, plus fabulous ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030 27580644 www.onepiece.com

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 080 02070700 www.drmartens.com

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS

Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

BREE C&A CALZEDONIA CAMPUS Casano CHRIST CINQUE Claire’s Clarks Ecco Coco California Codello Cordon Berlin

MANKIND adidas Neo Airfield Almano Ledermanufaktur ARMANI JEANS Backlash Bershka BIJOU BRIGITTE BIMBA Y LOLA

Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi’s LIEBESKIND Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 Mabba MANGO MARC CAIN MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto

MEXX Michal Negrin Muji NAVYBOOT Nike NOA NOA Oakley Odlo Olymp One Green Elephant Osco PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg PENNYBLACK Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal

Runners Point S & D sons and daughters Salamander Sarar Schiesser Schiesser Revival SCHMUCKRAUSCH Schuh Bode SHOE CITY Shoe Connect Shok Sidestep SILK & CASHMERE SNIPES Sportalm Kitzbühel SPORTSCHECK Street Shoes STRELLSON STRENESSE STYLE MODE Sunglass Hut

SWAROVSKI Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Barbour Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

For The Man In The Know The world of fashion is not gender equal. Women enjoy the whole spectrum of styles, from casual to dressy and all the shades in between, while men are often forced to choose between sporty and elegant – and quality elegance usually comes with a painful price tag. That all changed, however, with the opening of the first Massimo Dutti stores in 2006. The Spanish brand specializes in urban, effortless elegance, attracting men who want to dress savvy but not too elegant, sporty but not too casual, and all at mid-range prices. From the shops' refined air to the small touches, such as the fabric lining the neck of the long-sleeved polo shirts, every item exhibits a rare attention to detail. Friedrichstr. 83. T: 030 29027940. www.massimodutti.com

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SHOPPING well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16. T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Lovers of the written word will find much to write home about at Type Hype, where every product is inspired by the letters of the alphabet. From kitchenware to stationery to customized pieces, all items are printed with A-Z designs in your choice of vintage, pure, fine art, or Bauhaus style. Old-school industrial lighting and a well-positioned printing press fit the theme, while the trendy Milchbar in the center of the action revives another tradition: the drinking of milk to prevent lead toxicity from the ink. Milchbar goes a step further, with organic milk from Brandenburg, along with coffee specialties from local roasting companies and slow-food snacks. T: 030.27591404. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 9-13. www.typehype.com.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

ben|weide

Chopard

Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Boggi Milano

Cinque

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags by By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden.

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

ESCADA Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. www.escada.com. See website for more locations. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, worn by celebrities. Their comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection adding bags, lingerie, beachwear and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store

courtesy of type hype.

Font-astic Finds

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Wolfen A Berlin-based brand specializing in knitwear items for both women and men. All products are made with natural fibers and finished by hand. www.wolfengermany.com. Auguststr. 41. T: 030.49781966. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Shoes & Accessories AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Selected shops for the savvy shopper Client Client Outlet Outlet Ad Ad Type Type Publication Publication Size Size

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

N/Given GB Type Type Area Area -- N/Given Initials Initials -- GL mm 100 Bleed Bleed -- mm Scale Scale -- 100 04–09–2015 >300 Date Date -- 04–09–2015 Effective Effective DPI DPI -- >300 File File Name Name -GL0846_0010_AW15_Berlin_Press_Where_Magazine_118x124mm_AW -GL0846_0010_AW15_Berlin_Press_Where_Magazine_118x124mm_AW

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Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe. www.buffalo-shop.de. See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

courtesy of type hype.

has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

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SHOPPING accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2 The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/ Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Wempe

Volker Lang

ROLEX Boutique

HOME DÉCOR

has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2 One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

KPM Berlin Once upon a time, a king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur was born. KPM Berlin still makes exquisite tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour and shop for beautiful porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Aveda Lifestyle Salon Aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. A cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de. Kurfürstendamm 26a. T: 030.88708790. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3.

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions, which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey-and-salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Rosenthal One of Germany's most famous white porcelain manufacturers, Rosenthal is synonymous with impeccable quality and high value in tableware and art. Kurfürstendamm. T: 030.88681574. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE

SHOES UK

CLOTHES Euro

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5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

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6 8 10 12 14 16

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34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

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34 36 38 40 42 44

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Köpenick's Kings, Mayors & Impostors Surrounded by the meandering waters of the Spree and Dahme rivers, the historic neighborhood of Köpenick in Berlin's southeast is an idyllic getaway from noisy city life. Its most famous attraction is the Köpenick Palace, a Baroque castle, moat and all, built in 1558 on the foundations of a 6th-century Slavic stronghold. Initially meant as a summer residence and hunting lodge for the Hohenzollern Electors of Brandenburg, the palace later became home to Frederick I of Prussia, who added the English-style garden. Today, the structure houses the Museum of Decorative Arts, with 500 exhibits of interior design and decorative art from the Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo periods. The palace also regularly hosts classical concerts: on 3 April (2pm), a local youth orchestra will be performing works by Beethoven and Mendelssohn. (Visit www. classictic.com for tickets.) Nearby, the Gothic-style town hall (AltKöpenick) provided the setting for what became known as the "Köpenick coup": In

1906, an impostor disguised as a Prussian officer convinced soldiers in the local army barracks to help him arrest and overthrow the mayor in order to pilfer the city's money – not without leaving a receipt, however. The tale formed the basis for a satirical play by German dramatist Carl Zuckermeyer, who built his story around the townspeople's exaggerated

willingness to obey orders when before a uniform. Combine culture with culinary tradition by dining at one of Köpenick's cafés, restaurants, and pubs, many of which are on the water’s edge – or barhop the night away at the Alt Köpenicker Kneipenfest (9 April). East of the old town is Müggelsee, Berlin’s largest lake and a wonderland for water sports. You'll have to wait until summer to swim at Strandbad Müggelsee, but you can hire a boat now at the Müggelsee Segelschule (www.surf-und-segelschulemueggelsee.de). For more bucolic beauty, head to Rahnsdorf to visit a charming fishing village with cobblestone streets lined with chestnut trees. If you're travelling with little ones, combine the above with a visit to the FEZ center (www.fez-berlin.de), Europe’s largest non-profit leisure park for children and families. Here you can, among other things, ride the mini-railway or ponies, go climbing at the Kletterwald, or watch a theater performance at the Astrid-Lindgren-Bühne.

Rahnsdorf: photos by Helmut Fiegler

For Annabelle Mallia, one day in Köpenick just isn't enough.

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Rahnsdorf: photos by Helmut Fiegler

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus

Potsdamer Platz

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Brandenburg Gate

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz

MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Philharmonie

synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Open daily 10am–6pm (to 5pm Fri). Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in

A DVER TORIAL

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue

Jurassic Seas Discovering the underwater world has gotten even more thrilling with the new Jurassic Seas exhibit at AquaDom & SEA LIFE. Four aquariums are filled with fascinating creatures descended from extinct sea monsters, such as sea urchins, anemones, sharks, and horseshoe crabs, known as “living fossils.” See a Jurassic-era sea dinosaur brought to life with the interactive, lifelike animation of a plesiosaurus. The special exhibit is the latest addition to the aquarium’s stunning exhibits with thousands of sea creatures, an underwater tunnel, a rock pool where you can pet a starfish, and an elevator ride through the world’s largest cylindrical aquarium tank. Spandauer Str. 3. T: 030.992800. www.sealife.de

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SIGHTSEEING form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately run exhibit explores the crafty inventions used by East Germans to escape East Germany, including Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot-air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts. Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

There are some things Berliners are extremely proud of: their city's creative flair, its 175 museums, the beautiful parks, rivers, and lakes – and the currywurst. Berlin’s most popular street food has become so famous that it even has its own museum, the Deutsches Currywurst Museum, where you can learn everything you ever wanted to know about the ubiquitous snack. Visit the interactive exhibits, which include a virtual currywurstmaking station, a spice-sniffing chamber, audio booths shaped as ketchup bottles, and an original snack bar on wheels. Schützenstr. 70. www.currywurstmuseum.com session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4

Holocaust Memorial

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in

Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun until 6pm. Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon

Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of

courtesy of deutsches currywurst museum.

The Joys Of Currywurst

Built in 1936 by prisoners as a model concentration camp, Sachsenhausen saw mainly political prisoners in its first years, while Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” arrived a few years later. Daily 8:30am–6pm (midOct–mid-Mar until 4:30pm); Mon museums and exhibitions closed. Free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

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SIGHTSEEING market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Jonathan Borofsky's Molecule Man sculpture, emerging from the Spree in front of the Oberbaumbrücke, represents the intersection between the districts of Kreuzberg, Treptow, and Friedrichshain and has become a Berlin icon. Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons. com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

THE CITY SKYLINE

Children’s Museum Labyrinth One of Berlin’s two children’s museums. Two floors of activity stations on the theme of construction. Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Mo-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over-3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.labyrinthkindermuseum.de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map

Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE A hands-on museum for children. There is a climbing structure, a maze, a soap making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. www.machmitmuseum.de. Senefelderstr. 5/6. T: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1

Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Tempelhof Airport Park What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke. Off Map

Tiergarten Park

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E4

Created as hunting grounds for the Electors of Brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond with boat rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. The park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the Schloss Bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany. S Tiergarten, S Bellevue. C3, D3

Domäne Dahlem City Farm

POTSDAM

A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’

Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals

A HISTORIC TIMELINE OF BERLIN’S ARCHITECTURE

1906

1920s

1927

1932

1951

1957

Hackesche Höfe: The courtyards remain a prime example of Altbau architecture.

Onkel Toms Hütte: Bauhaus architect Taut creates an airy estate in the Grunewald forest.

Tempelhof Airport: One of Europe’s three iconic pre-WWII airports opens its first terminal.

Shell-Haus: The rationalist facade juts forward and folds six times as it grows in height.

Karl-Marx-Allee: The boulevard’s high-rises reflect the grandeur of the socialist regime.

Haus der Kulturen der Welt: An example of West Berlin’s post-war modern style.

MOLECULE MAN: © ISTOCK PHOTO; ARCHITECTURAL TIMELINE: HACKESCHE HÖFE, REICHSTAG DOME, KARL-MARX-ALLEE, HAUS DER KULTUREN DER WELT: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; ONKELTOMS HÜTTE: PHOTO BY BARBRO BJÖRNEMALM/FLICKR.COM; TEMPELHOF AIRPORT: TEMPELHOFER PROJECT GMBH; SHELL-HAUS: PHOTO BY MARK PRATT; KINO INTERNATIONAL: ROBERT AGTHE/ FLICKR.COM; NEUE NATIONALGALERIE KULTURFORUM, BERLIN-TIERGARTEN © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN. FOTO: MAXIMILIAN MEISSE; POTSDAMER PLATZ: © BERLIN PARTNER - FRITSCHFOTO; JEWISH MUSEUM: COURTESY OF JEWISH MUSEUM.

Madame Tussauds

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SIGHTSEEING

FLICKR.COM; NEUE NATIONALGALERIE KULTURFORUM, BERLIN-TIERGARTEN © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN. FOTO: MAXIMILIAN MEISSE; POTSDAMER PLATZ: © BERLIN PARTNER - FRITSCHFOTO; JEWISH MUSEUM: COURTESY OF JEWISH MUSEUM.

such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

ADVERTORIAL

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Let’s seg Berlin ways! Want to be cultural while exploring Berlin in a unique way? CooLTourings offers guided Segway tours of Berlin's top 20 sightseeing highlights. Follow your guide and set off on your very own self-balancing electric Segway vehicle for a 1.5- or 3-hour Berlin City Center Tour along the Berlin Wall Trail and Spree River. Daily tours starting at 10am and 3pm. Book a group or private VIP tour online on www.Seg-Berlin-Ways.de. Meeting point: Hotel Riverside & Café, Friedrichstr. 106. T: 030 26321381. Easy booking at your concierge desk. house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours

RIVER TRIPS Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private

Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to

explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24047991.

Original Berlin Walks Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin, and Christmas markets (in December). No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point shortly before the tour begins. www.berlinwalks.de. Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10. T: 030.3019194.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

1959–1965

1968

1990s

1999

2001

2014

Kino International: The Karl-Marx-Allee Kino was the main theater for movie premieres in the GDR.

Neue Nationalgalerie: Mies van der Rohe’s museum was part of the city’s redevelopment.

Potsdamer Platz: The former heart of West Berlin. Famed architects worked for years to rebuild the bustling square.

Reichstag Dome: Norman Foster’s design is emblematic of German reunification.

Jewish Museum: Libeskind designed a crooked building symbolizing the difficult history of German Jews.

Bikini-Haus: The 1957 building has now been renovated as part of West Berlin’s comeback.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Inside The History Of German Cinema Jenna Rose Robbins delved into the country’s film legacy — and stopped to admire some of Marlene Dietrich’s outfits along the way. While the Lumière brothers often get credit for inventing the moving picture, Max Skladanowsky had actually premiered his Bioscop film projector nearly two months earlier, in 1895, at the original Wintergarten theater in Berlin Mitte. History may better remember the French inventors, but the Museum für Film und Fernsehen (Museum for Film and Television) has ensured that Skladonowsky is not forgotten. The museum walks visitors chronologically through cinema history, starting off with displays of some of the industry’s earliest inventions, as well as the silver screen’s first stars. Internationally famous actors such as Asta Nielsen and Fern Andra are remembered for their contribution to the burgeoning business, as are gizmos such as the Maltese cross gear mechanism, which made the technology of motion pictures possible. Working models allow visitors to understand film technology and its evolution, while

miniaturizations of stage sets from famous films provide a behind-the-scenes look at the making of cinema classics. Old film reels of stars and famous Berlin sites, including Potsdamer Platz circa 1896, allow visitors a glimpse back in time. Although the museum honors film from the world over, the focus is, of course, German cinema. Homegrown masterworks such as The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari and Metropolis receive as much spotlight as such luminaries as Ernst Lubitsch and F.W. Murnau. No German film collection would be complete without an homage to Marlene Dietrich, and here the

Berlin chanteuse has several rooms in her honor, brimming with letters, photos, and a selection of the outfits that made her an international style icon. Of special note is Dietrich’s screen test for The Blue Angel, the film that catapulted her to stardom. Even the darker eras of filmmaking – German and otherwise – are not overlooked, with special attention given to Leni Riefenstahl and her propaganda films for the Nazi party, as well as how those German actors and directors who fled the country went on to transform the industry overseas in Hollywood. Contemporary names, such as Werner Herzog and Wim Wenders, also receive due mention. Although the permanent exhibition can be perused in under an hour, diehard cinephiles will probably need longer, particularly if there’s a special exhibit – or if they want to grab a cocktail at Billy Wilder’s bar downstairs. Potsdamer Str. 2. T: 030-3009030. www.deutsche-kinemathek.de

Zeittunnel: courtesy of Museum für Film und Fernsehen; Filmhaus: © MStefanowski; Jodie Foster 1989. courtesy of Museum für Film und Fernsehen; inset: Bette Davis 1939, courtesy of Museum für Film und Fernsehen.

Clockwise from top left: The interior of the Museum für Film und Fernsehen; Jodie Foster, 1989; (inset) Bette Davis, 1939; The exterior of the museum.

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Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 16 May: The Struggle for Troy. Restored in the 19th century by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the sculptures depicting the Trojan Wars are on display once again. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie

and Erich Heckel. To 26 Jun: Karl Schmidt-Rottluff. Image and Self-Image features portraits and selfportraits of the painter and his companions. Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

DDR Museum

One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 12 May: Change of Scenery, objects from the museum’s archives will be brought forth, the story behind their origins and acquisition illuminated. To 26 Jun: SuperQueeroes presents, for the first time in Europe, a collection of superheroes and comic book characters falling within the LGBTI spectrum. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 22 May: Monk returns focuses on the restoration process of Caspar David Friedrich’s famous painting. To 17 Jul: August Kopisch – Painter, Poet, Discoverer, Inventor commemorates interdisciplinary artist Kopisch’s work as a painter, poet, and engineer. To 31 Jul: Images and Studies from the Copenhagen Academy of Painting featuring landscapes and figure studies from the rigorous Danish school of painting. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 3 Apr: Art from the Holocaust – 100 Works from the Yad Vashem Memorial. From 20 Apr: Sticky Messages – Antisemitic and Racist Stickers from 1880 to the present tells the story of prejudice through the medium of adhesives. To 14 Aug: Relics of the Cold War. Photographs by Martin Roemers. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bauhaus Archiv

Deutsches Technikmuseum

The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 5 Sep: Textile Design Today explores the ever-evolving world of textile design. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Deutsches Historisches Museum

MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum)

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 31 Jul: NO COMPROMISES! Dedicated

to the controversial art of NO! and its artist Boris Lurie.

Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www. jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily

A DVER TORIAL

Museum für Film und Fernsehen; inset: Bette Davis 1939, courtesy of Museum für Film und Fernsehen.

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 30 Apr: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. To 8 May: Holbein in Berlin – The Madonna and Masterworks. To 15 Oct: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan-Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Apr: Turn of an Era. From the Berlin Secession to the November Group. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde

Selfies With The Stars Everyone loves selfies, and there’s no better place to snap some memorable shots than at Madame Tussauds Berlin, where you can get up close and personal with big stars from every walk of life. The latest celebrity to move in is Sonja Zietlow, host of the German version of I’m a Celebrity…Get Me Out of Here! That makes a grand total of 123 stunningly lifelike wax figures to pose with, including George Clooney, Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, Barack Obama, Taylor Swift, and Rihanna, not to mention all the heroes and villains of the Star Wars movies. Madame Tussauds Berlin. Unter den Linden 74. T: 030 4000460. www.madametussauds.com/Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Rocky Origins Of Modern Art The uncovering of African and European prehistoric rock art in the 1920s and ‘30s compelled German ethnologist Leo Frobenius to take painters along on his expeditions so he could document the discoveries. Through these faithful, true-to-size representations, the earliest traces of human creativity became accessible to metropolitan audiences throughout Europe and the U.S. Not only did the painters document the rock art, they also sought, through both traditional and experimental painting styles, to replicate the actual texture and color of the rock walls that served as the backdrop of the ancient images. Art of Prehistoric Times at the Martin-Gropius-Bau (this page) explores the influence these highly scientific reproduction paintings had on the trailblazers of modern and avant-garde art.

Kupferstichkabinett

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the

Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. From 18 Mar: We're off! Travel pictures from from Albrecht Dürer to Olafur Eliasson. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 9 Apr: Isa Genzken: Make Yourself Pretty! is a retrospective of Genzken’s complete

works across many mediums, exploring modernity and urban culture. From 12 Apr: MAYA – The language of Beauty explores the fundamental pre-Hispanic artistic motif and expression - the body. To 16 May: Art of Prehistoric Times highlights the beginnings of human creativity in the form of rock paintings. To 6 Jun: Günter

Brus. Zones of Disruption. Features the Austrian artist’s complete work in the Actionism movement. To 12 Jun: Lee Miller – Photographs reveals the full range

and oeuvre of Miller’s artistry. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen

tour guides through the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. To 26 Jun: No Pain No Game presents an interactive and engaging game of the senses. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years Museum of Photography of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated in 2013, the museum also features many famous from the Berlin Art Library’s vast works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van photographic collection are housed in Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri a Neoclassical 1909 building built for 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. the Prussian army’s officer corps, Schloßstr. 1. whose lower two floors are occupied T: 030.266424242. U SophieBerlin has more by the Helmut Newton Foundation. Charlotte-Platz. A3 museums than To 22 May: Helmut Newton: Pages from rainy days Museum of Asian Art the Glossies / Greg Gorman, Color Works: per year. The important collection of East Asian A selection of Newton and Gorman’s and Indian works includes fabulous fashion photography from magazine lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese prints. To 5 Jun: A Photo Rarely Comes Alone; paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Pairs, sets, and series of people, architecture, and Route. To 17 Apr: Tigers, Cranes, Beautiful Women puts experiments. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), the spotlight on these motifs found on classic Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Chinese folding screens. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4 Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Museum für Naturkunde Dorf. Off Map Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the Museum of Communication natural history museum also features extensive An entertaining journey through the history of collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning communication inside the neo-Baroque building mounted animal dioramas. Since Dece,ber 2015, that once housed Berlin’s post office museum. the museum also hosts the first original T-Rex Robots welcome visitors, while iPads make perfect skeleton in Europe. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun

elefantenkontur riesiges rotes tier boecke und menschen, courtesy of martin-gropius-bau

struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. To 15 May: Faces of the Käthe Kollwitz Museum features photographs of the museum’s staff and caretakers. To 30 May: Rediscovered! is dedicated to the start of the Berlin Secession movement, to which Kollwitz belonged. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethekollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

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Museum The Kennedys When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. To 3 Apr: My Pony Macaroni features stories of the Kennedys’ zoo and anecdotes of US presidents with their pets. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys. de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 30 Jun: Death in Naples – 125th Anniversary of the Death of Heinrich Schliemann pays homage to the archaeologist and excavator. To 3 Jul: Beards: between Nature and Razor explores the significance of beards throughout history and Berliners' fascination with facial hair. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum. de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

STEPHEN SHORE

RETROSPECTIVE—22/O5/16

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 24 Apr: Mystic Travellers; paintings of the mystic sufis, ascetics and holy men in their quest to become one with the Divine. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

www.co-berlin.org

A world of exhibitions

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www.spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Story of Berlin Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

elefantenkontur riesiges rotes tier boecke und menschen, courtesy of martin-gropius-bau

10am–6pm. €8/5. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 24 Apr: Ulrich Wüst – Cityscapes / Peripheries / Late Summer. To 24 Apr: Peter Puklus. Unsafe to Dance features the works of the experimental Hungarian photographer. To 24 Apr: Screen Memories is a three-stage series from photographer Verónica Losantos based on memories and the creation of them. To 22 May: Stephen Shore. Retrospective. A retrospective of Shore’s photography work that highlights what is normally overlooked and considered unspectacular. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org. Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle

In his four decades of career, photographer Helmut Newton was regularly asked to share his vision of contemporary fashion through his photoshoots for magazines like Vogue, Elle, and Germany's Stern. In 1998, Newton's book Pages from the Glossies presented a collection of his most iconic magazine shots, which have now been reprinted and enlarged for the current exhibition at the Helmut Newton Foundation (p. 45), the cornerstone of the Museum for Photography. Arranged chronologically, the photos reveal the evolution of the photographer's visual language, as well as the shifting role of women in society over time. Newton's exhibition is accompanied by the work of another great camera artist, Hollywood photographer Greg Gorman. Although best known for his black-and-white portraits, the Gorman portion of the show presents 25 of his color profiles of famous singers and artists, including David Bowie, Grace Jones (featured on the cover), Andy Warhol, and Julianne Moore. Until 22 May. of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www. story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208. T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Art galleries Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Akademie der Künste Pariser Platz The Pariser Platz branch of Berlin’s art academy, housing an important exhibition space and an extensive archive. Open daily 11am–7pm (Free

entry Tue 3-7pm). €6/4. www.adk.de. Pariser Platz 4. T: 030.200571000. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Berlinische Galerie

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 24 Apr: A family on the run. A cabinet exhibition of the flight of Joseph, Mary, and Baby Jesus after his birth. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Apr: Ignacio Uriarte – Counting (for) Eight Hours is an acoustic Hamburger Bahnhof installation of counting, questioning CThe permanent collection of this the passing of time of business hours. Berlin was appointed former railway station includes a To 11 Jul: Heidi Specker – In Front of. a UNESCO City of Design in Photographs 2005/2015, Beckmann selection of works from the Friedrich 2005. and Berlin examines the relationship Christian Flick Collection, and the between photographer and sitter. many temporary exhibitions focus on To 22 Aug: Erwin Wurm – Bei Mutti pushes painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, the boundaries between sculpture, object, and as well as videos, music, and design. To 10 Jul: performance, inviting visitors to integrate themselves Julian Rosefeldt. Manifesto is an installation of 13 into the artist’s work. To 24 Oct: 12×12. Each year, concurrently-running films and monologues. To the IBB Video Space features 12 innovative film and 31 Jul: Neue Galerie: The Black Years. Works from the video artists in Berlin. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 Neue Nationalgalerie created between 1933-1945,

Helmut Newton: French Vogue. Rio, 1962. © Helmut Newton Estate

Timeless Icons

With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 10 Apr: Jackson Pollock’s “Mural”: Energy Made Visible. Rarely on loan outside of University of Iowa’s Museum of Art, Pollock’s work is on display in Berlin after undergoing 18 months of cleaning in Los Angeles. From 29 Apr: Basim Magdy: The Stars Were Aligned for a Century of New Beginnings is the Egyptian multimedia artist’s first solo exhibition, investigating and challenging ideologies and utopias. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutschebank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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People, Cables, Data Streams

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 17 Apr: Leiko Ikemura – ... And Suddenly The Wind Turns features foreboding landscapes, figures, and plants created after the artist’s mother’s death and the atomic bombing of Fukushima. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

A new exhibition about the networked world

Helmut Newton Foundation

For explorers!

Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 22 May: Helmut Newton: Pages from the Glossies / Greg Gorman: A selection of Newton and Gorman’s fashion photography from magazine prints. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

om n.c esig phd gra .de ly : po ege tion chla stra ans Illu g: B / taltun T D s © S Ge

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and DTM_Anz_Netz-118x124_FINAL.indd 1 concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 10 Apr: Cindy Sherman – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Sherman’s works explore cultural tropes and the struggle of the individual against a collective. From 27 Apr: Women of the Secession II presents the female artists who fueled the Berlin Secession art movement over a century ago. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

The best events in town

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

04.02.16 13:00

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. To 3 Apr: Organism Response. An installation of David Olbrich’s works, exploring the interaction of the mechanical with the organic. To 21 Jun: With New Eyes. Surreal Worlds features the works of major Surrealists and their forerunners. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries Michael Reid Berlin, 8 - 30 Apr: Peter Churcher: painting. Ackerstr. 163. www.michaelreid.com.au; Mutare, 28 Apr - 25 May: Christiane Latendorf: painting. Giesebrechtstr. 12. www.galeriemutare. de. Galerie Kai Dikhas, 9 Apr - 4 Jun: Damian Le Bas. Prinzenstr. 84, entrance 2. www.kaidikhas. com. Galerie Dittmar, 20 Apr - 11 Jun: Hideaki Yamanobe: new pictures. Auguststr. 22. www. galerie-dittmar.de; Zellermayer Galerie, 9 Apr - 24 Jun: Georg Stahl: works from six decades. Ludwigkirchstr. 6. www.zellermayer.de.

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Helmut Newton: French Vogue. Rio, 1962. © Helmut Newton Estate

The Network

including works by Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Top left: Schneeweiss; this photo and right: Jolesch.

One Schnitzel To Rule Them All Tender, flavorful meat and a light, perfectly golden-crisp crust: A perfect schnitzel is something of a culinary masterpiece. One of Austria’s most beloved culinary exports, the schnitzel is a popular headlining item on menus around town, which makes picking Berlin’s best as difficult as choosing the best pizza in Naples: It’s impossible to crown just one winner. In service to all the schnitzel fans out there, however, I’ve narrowed it down to my top three. In a corner of Friedrichshain not known for its fine dining, Schneeweiss (Simplonstr. 16, www.schneeweiss-berlin.de) stands out. One of the restaurant’s distinctive features is its striking, pristinely white interior, reminiscent of snowy Alpine peaks. Then there’s the refined Austrian cuisine, led by the star of the show: the schnitzel. In proper Austrian tradition, the veal cutlet has been pounded into tender submission and coated in crackling breading that's not too thin, not too thick. A back lounge with a fireplace and chic

Schnitzel at Schneeweiss

après-ski vibe makes for a cozy spot to sip a glass of crisp Austrian white. In neighboring Kreuzberg, a wider Austrian menu awaits at elegant Jolesch (Muskauer Str. 1, www.jolesch.de), complete with a beautiful wooden interior and chandeliers. Beef tartare and chestnut soup are some of the more creative dishes to be sampled, but even the classic schnitzel comes with options, such as

pork or veal variations and gluten-free breading. On the side is the traditional Erdäpfel-Vogerlsalat, potato salad with lamb’s lettuce. Make sure to save room for one of the scrumptious Austrian desserts, such as classic Sachertorte, apricot dumplings with vanilla sauce, or Kaiserschmarrn, shredded pancakes with plum compote. If hobnobbing with the upper crust whets your appetite, don’t miss Borchardt (Französische Str. 47, www.borchardtrestaurant.de), a Mitte culinary institution that is as renowned for its posh clientele as it is for its schnitzel. Elegant marble columns, plush red banquettes, and a well-heeled crowd with regular celebrity cameos are just some of the visual delights you can expect. Oysters and steaks are other popular items on the brasserie-style menu, but if you’re here for the famed schnitzel, you won’t be disappointed. So large it comes spilling off the edges of the plate, the crispy golden cutlet is a delight with every bite.

Top left and inset: courtesy of Schneeweiss; bottem left and right, courtesy of Jolesch.

There’s plenty of competition for the top schnitzel around town, but Hilda Hoy managed to narrow it down to the best of the best.

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TOP LEFT AND INSET: COURTESY OF SCHNEEWEISS; BOTTEM LEFT AND RIGHT, COURTESY OF JOLESCH.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

BUSINESS LUNCH Mo. - Fr. 12pm - 3pm

2 Course Menu 12,50 €

3 Course Menu 17,00 €

Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www. restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along

Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

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Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue

For raw foodists, 42 is the magic number. If food is prepared without exceeding the 42°C mark (107.6° F), raw purists believe, it retains all of its freshness, nutritional value, and enzyme activity. Devotees swear that raw food provides an unbeatable energy boost and health benefits. Here to prove that uncooked can also mean unbelievable taste is Rawtastic, an all-raw, all-vegan restaurant that opened in Prenzlauer Berg last September. The creativity that raw cooking demands is evident in Rawtastic’s colorful menu: Imagine a mushroom burger with sweet potato fries that hasn’t seen a lick of heat, raw pizza with cashew nut “cheese,” or lasagna made from butternut squash and zucchini and tomato-walnut sauce. Skeptics are sure to be impressed by the lively flavors that dance across the palate, not to mention the cocktail creations and almosttoo-pretty-to-eat raw cakes. Danziger Str. 16. T: 072 4391287. www.rawtastic.de with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine. Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer. de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Markus Semmler Named “Restaurateur of the Year” in 2000— amongst many other awards and distinctions— Markus Semmler has launched a new solo project. In his restaurant, he serves expertly handled German classics with a fine-tuned sense for quality.

€€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.kochkunst-ereignisse.de. Sächsische Str. 7 T: 030.89068290. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Restaurant Richard

Vau At once luxurious and minimalist, the Michelinstarred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city. Headed by star chef Kolja Kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a TV cooking show, the kitchen combines the best of French and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54–55. T: 030.2029730. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Enoiteca Il Calice Italian. A place to relax and enjoy a

carefully selected glass of wine from their well-stocked shelves together The nondescript street belies the Locals usually leave a with an innovative creation from the splendor of Richard’s gourmet tip of approximately kitchen, like ravioli with eggplant, creations and interior, which 10% if they are happy feta cheese, and swordfish. You includes carved wooden ceilings with a restaurant's can also take home a bottle of and stained-glass. The 19th-century service. wine from their shop next door. €€€. architecture gets a modern boost Mon-Sat L&D. www.enoiteca-il-calice.de. from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4. T: 030.3242308. U restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174. Adenauerplatz. B4 T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Reinstoff

Goldhorn Beefclub

Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Steakhouse. This meatlover's restaurant offers its guests prime cuts of meat from the finest cattle breeds around the world, including Black Angus, Galloway, and Charolais, cooked on a first-class charcoal grill. Iberian pork, organic poultry, and fresh fish and seafood, complemented by fine wines and creative cocktails, round-off the menu. Reservations required. €€. Daily L&D.

Courtesy of Rawtastic, by viktoria fedirko.

Heat-Free Cooking

From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

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www.goldhorn-beefclub.de. Mommsenstr. 12. T: 030.31806370. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, and beef tartare. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a stylish interior alongside classic and updated French cuisine. Inside Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for a posh business lunch or romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters tempts as much as the sumptuous mains and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-

stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks,

Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style

Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Kreuzberg Brauhaus Südstern German. The Brauhaus Südstern is part brewery, part restaurant, part beer school – brewing courses are offered on site. Dine on hefty German specialties like beer goulash and blood sausage in the midst of enormous brewing kettles. The house-brewed beer is, of course, a must-try. €. Mon–Sat D, Sun B, L, D. www.brauhaus-suedstern. de. Hasenheide 69. T: 030.69001624. U Südstern. F5

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jolesch Austrian. This elegant spot divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined, homey dishes like Tafelspitz beef. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Kimchi Princess

Special asparagus menu im Nikolaiviertel

Tomato soup with pesto *** Fresh asparagus with hollandaise sauce, new potatoes and a small Viennese schnitzel *** Chocolate mousse with orange sauce Ask your waiter for this special off-menu selection, created exclusively for WHERE Berlin readers!

Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon–

Reinhard‘s im Nikolaiviertel Poststraße 28 · 10178 Berlin www.reinhards.de restaurant@reinhards.de 030 - 242 52 95 030 - 24 71 98 24 opening hours daily 9 am – 12 pm www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq.de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

Dóttir

Bar Food Goes Sty-lish Gastronomes and wine lovers alike can go whole hog at Schwein, an upscale new eatery that just opened in Mitte this January. With a choice of nearly 100 wines, divided equally between domestic and international varietals, oenophiles of all stripes will find a vintage or two to love. The compact but well-crafted dinner menu draws on German culinary influences, though anyone expecting a pork overload (the restaurant’s name means “pig”) will be pleasantly surprised to find plenty of variety, including vegetarian options. From meat and cheese antipasti platters to nibble on over a bottle of red, to complete meals like steak tartare, ceviche, tender ox cheeks, or spelt risotto with wild mushrooms, Schwein is elevating bar food to new gourmet heights. Elisabethkirchstr. 2. T: 030 24356282. www.facebook.com/schwein.berlin

Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40. T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Dudu Asian Creative. This trendy spot (whose name means "papaya" in Vietnamese) just off busy Rosenthaler Platz has earned many fans with its modern, fresh pan-Asian cuisine. Inventive fusion-type sushi is a mainstay of the menu, plus noodle and rice bowls that take advantage of Asian seasoning. €€. Daily L&D. www.dudu-berlin.de. Torstr. 134. T: 030.51736854. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

The Grand T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Mitte

Balthazar 2 Spreeufer

AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky hole-in-the-wall, with the look

and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Fried sardines and grilled catch-of-the-day fillets are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends can all be found right in the heart of Mitte’s busiest neighborhood. Located in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station, this spot with a big terrace out front makes for a perfect meal break any time of day. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

International. The new branch of the Charlottenburg establishment, this central restaurant is bound to become a popular destination thanks to creative dishes like tomato and ginger soup, Thai chicken salad, or mushroom risotto with cardamon. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.balthazar-spreeufer.de. Balthazar Spreeufer 2. T: 030.30882156. U Klosterstraße. F3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite

hobnobbing spot of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grandberlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few German bread is among other additions to the fine menu. the best in the world, €€€. Daily D. and there are some 600 www.grillroyal.com. varieties from which Friedrichstr. 105b. to choose. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. Meals come served on a plastic tray, but with meat this delicious, who needs plates?

House of Small Wonder American Fusion. The Berlin outpost of Brooklyn

favorite. An unlikely yet delicious hybrid of Japanese, American, and European cuisines – with a delicious dash of Tex-Mex. Okinawan taco rice, anyone? www. houseofsmallwonder.de. Johannisstr. 20. T: 030.27582877. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

courtesy of schwein

Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

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FINE GERMAN CUISINE on the rooftop of the Reichstag

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Reinhard's im Nikolaiviertel German. Situated in the heart of the Nikolaiviertel, Reinhard's serves international food with French accents, offering a menu that changes weekly in an elegant setting inspired by the Golden Twenties and Parisian coffee houses. €€. Daily L&D. www.reinhards. de. Poststr. 28. T: 030.2425295. U Klosterstraße. F3

Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni

Italian. The atmosphere hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Schöneberg Café Aroma Italian. A long-standing neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing high-quality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Events RESERVATION IS NEEDED.

DA C H G A R T E N - R E S TA U R A N T of the German Bundestag s

courtesy of schwein

German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destinatio. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkostkaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Reservations: +49 30 22 62 99 0 berlin@feinkost-kaefer.de www.feinkost-kaefer.de

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Deciphering The Magic Flute A big fan of all the Mozart operas, Solveig Steinhardt helps first-time viewers understand a classic. If you've bought tickets for any of the Zauberflöte productions playing in Berlin this month, you probably know that you're in for three hours of pure enchantment. With its well-known arias and captivating story, the 300-year-old opera still appeals to audiences of all ages and backgrounds. But The Magic Flute is not just a story of love and hatred in a magical land: It is an ode to the values of the German Enlightenment, in which truth, justice, wisdom, and reason, impersonated by the characters Sarastro and Tamino, fight against the hypocrisy, lies, and obscurantism of the Roman Catholic Church, symbolized by the forces of the Queen of the Night. In a faraway land, the Queen of the Night, helped by her three maids (the Drei Damen,) hopes to rescue her daughter, Pamina, who has been kidnapped by the enlightened king Sarastro. Tamino, a prince from a neighboring land, runs into the three ladies, who show him a picture of the captured princess.

Tamino immediately falls in love and decides to rescue her with the help of Papageno, a simple and slightly ignorant bird catcher whose main desire in life is to eat good food, drink wine, and find a girlfriend. The three ladies give the two a magic flute and bells to enchant animals and people along the way, and introduce them to three flying wise children (the Drei Knaben), who will guide them with their wisdom and white voices. In order to free Pamina, Tamino must undergo a series of trials. He succeeds, but instead of returning Pamina to her mother, the two enter Sarastro's kingdom of wisdom to profess their platonic, noble love, while Papageno, who has finally found a girlfriend (Papagena), satisfies his earthly desires by having many children with her. Having lost her battle with universal good, the evil Queen of the Night and the three ladies, togther with servant Monostathos, are killed by an earthquake. And now that man has elevated his soul to the highest spheres

of human virtue, light triumphs over darkness and "the Earth is a heavenly kingdom," as the Drei Knaben remind us in the second act. Through its symbolism, The Magic Flute has also been said to advocate freemasonry, and though never confirmed by Mozart himself, this is very likely to be true, as both he and the librettist were active members of the secret masonic society. What makes The Magic Flute so widely popular is that it works on many different levels, containing everything from extraordinary music and famous arias (such as the Queen of the Night's Die Hölle Rache) to comedic entertainment and romance, all the way up to multiple layers of philosophical debate on human existence. Whether it's light fun or deep soul-searching you seek, choose between a cartoon-like silent-film-inspired rendition of the opera at the Komische Oper (2, 16, 27–29 Apr), or pick a traditional version at the Deutsche Oper (23 Apr) or at the Staatsoper im Schillertheater (15 Apr).

Dominik Köninger (Papageno) and Maureen McKay (Pamina), photo by Iko Freese, courtesy of Komische Oper.

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Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 8 Apr: Die ägyptische Helena (Strauss). 2, 6 Apr: Salome (Strauss). 3, 7 Apr: Elektra (Strauss). 9 Apr: Der Liebe der Danae (Strauss). 10, 14, 17 Apr: Der Rosenkavalier (Strauss). 16, 22, 24 Apr: Carmen (Bizet). 23 Mar: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www. deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 9 Apr: Heute Nacht oder Nie with the Geschwister Pfister. 2, 16, 27, 28, 29 Apr: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 13, 14, 21 Apr: Das Gestpenst von Canterville (Lange). 15 Apr: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 22, 24, 30 Apr: Clivia (Nico Dostal). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 2, 16, 18, 24 Apr: Giselle 7, 8 Apr: Ghosts (after Ibsen's play), at Komische Oper. 9 Apr: Duato / Kylian at Staatsoper im Schiller Theater.

till

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 15 Apr: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 24 Apr: Yefim Bronfman plays Prokofiev's Sonatas. 28 Apr: Madama Butterfly (Puccini). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

...the craziest of Mozart’s operas!

Rhythm Nation After a hiatus of more than seven years, best-selling artist Janet Jackson returns with Unbreakable, a chart-topper that became her seventh No. 1 album on the Billboard 200. The world tour finds the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame nominee back in prime form, with all the choreography and production values – not to mention three decades of hits – that have earned her a reputation as an electrifying performer. Fans who pre-order the album get exclusive perks at the show, including entrance to My Music VIP’s Janet Museum. Visit www.mymusicvip.com for more info. 18 April. Max-Schmeling-Halle.

*(Festnetz 20 ct/Anruf, Mobil max. 60 ct/Anruf, jeweils inkl. MwSt.)

A wild mix of styles ranging from grapevine conversations to commedia dell’arte.

Janet Jackson: © promotion

Dominik Köninger (Papageno) and Maureen McKay (Pamina), photo by Iko Freese, courtesy of Komische Oper.

Ballet & Opera

24.feb 22.may

10, 14, 25 Apr: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness. Music by Bach, chor. Nacho Duato. 15, 21, 28: Romeo and Juliet (Prokofiev), at Deutsche Oper .www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

BODEMUSEUM

TICKETS 01806 39 53 00

FALSCHE-GAERTNERIN-IM-BODE.DE www.wheretraveler.com 53

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ENTERTAINMENT

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Apr: The Philharmonisches Bläserquintett Berlin plays Mozart and others. 7 Apr: Carte Blanche. 20 Apr: Pavel Haas Quartet performs Beethoven, Shostakovich, Bartók. 26 Apr: Forabandit/Lo Cor de La Plana. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus

Westbroek) perform Tristan und Isolde in concert version. 8, 10 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Ozawa, piano Serkin) performMozart and Beethoven. 14–16 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Bychkov, piano Gerstein) perform Rachmaninov and Tchaikovsky. 21–23 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sokhiev, piano Thibaudet) perform Fauré, Ravel and Franck. 27–29 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Nelsons) perform Wagner and Bruckner. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thorchestras and soloists grace its stage century classical works under the lead of regularly. 7 Apr: Happy Birthday, Giora! Marek Janowski, the oldest German Klezmer clarinetter Giora Feidman radio orchestra with its 103 members celebrates his 80th birthday. 8-9 has won a place in the top tier of Apr: The Konzerthausorchester European concert orchestras. Berlin (cond. Sanderling) performs www.rsb-online.de. Barenboim is not just one of Beethoven. 10 Apr: Tickets: 030.20298715. the world’s most acclaimed The Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Beethoven interpreters, he’s Berlin (cond. Jukka-Pekka Saraste) also the director of the performs Britten, Mendelssohn Staatsoper. and Sibelius. 22–24 Apr: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Fischer), music by Elgar and Bartók. 29–30 Apr: The Konzerthausorchester Dock 11 Studios & Eden Berlin (cond. James Judd) performs Bach, Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary Brahms, and Beethoven. www.konzerthaus.de. performances inside an old factory. Two locations, Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios:

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-am-

Mozart Amid The Statues Museum visit or classical concert? What a dilemma! Fortunately, this month you can do both with Christoph Hagel's rendition of Mozart's Die Falsche Gärtnerin, performed between the artworks of the Bode Museum (p. 41). Hagel is known for bringing the heavenly beauty of classical music to common mortals like you and me. His performances have included combinations of Mozart and break dance, concerts in the U-Bahn, and Bach oratorios staged with dancers. Shows every weekend. www.falsche-gaertnerin-im-bode.de 54 W H E R E B E R L I n I A P R I L 2016

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asisi wall panorama: courtesy of asisi; all other images: © thinkstock.

The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 3 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle, with soprano Eva Maria

Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

Die Falsche Gärtnerin, courtesy of Artefakt, photo by Dirk Matthesius

Philharmonie

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon

GERMANY’S Things We FIRST IMAX Love About LASER Berlin PROJECTION There are many reasons to

love the German capital. Read on to discover what we love most about the city.

1 2 3

ON BERLIN’S BIGGEST SCREEN

AuguststraSSe in Mitte: one long art gallery.

NEW

Shopping at KaDeWe: the biggest department store in Europe. The multicultural population: hundreds of languages and foods.

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Rock, Pop, Jazz A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena asisi wall panorama: courtesy of asisi; all other images: © thinkstock.

Die Falsche Gärtnerin, courtesy of Artefakt, photo by Dirk Matthesius

ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

4 5 6 7

The buildings’ facades: a feast of architectural styles. The culture: three opera houses and myriad theaters big and small. The city’s laid-back nature: a relaxed, casual look rules. The Spree River and the city’s endless waterways.

FROM APRIL 14TH SWIM IN ENDLESS COLORS REVEL IN SOUL-STIRRING SOUND

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www. cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 2 Apr: Fat Freddy's Drop. 8 Apr: The 1975. 10 Apr: KYGO. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

8 9 10

The culinary diversity, from arroz con pollo to Zimtsterne.

Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz More info at cinestar-imax.de IMAX® IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF IMAX CORPORATION.

Experiencing the city by night. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac. The Asisi Wall Panorama: a journey back in time.

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ENTERTAINMENT Estrel Festival Center Berlin

on this month Plays & Musicals Hinterm Horizont Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz, all month

RuPaul’s Drag Race Admiralspalast, 3 April

The Frank Sinatra Show Admiralspalast, 17 April

Elvis: Das Musical Admiralspalast, 21-22 April

Tanz der Vampire Admiralspalast, from 23 April

Pop, Rock & Jazz At the Drive-In Columbiahalle, April 4

Dianne Reeves Konzerthaus Berlin, April 3

CHVRCHES Columbiahalle, April 6

a-ha Mercedes-Benz Arena, April 13

Nada Surf Huxleys Neue Welt, April 18

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 13 Apr: a-ha in concert. 14 Apr: Monster High Live. 21 Apr: The Sessions – A live re-staging of The Beatles at Abbey Road Studios. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the

now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 21 Apr: Massachussetts, the Bee Gees musical. 26 Apr: The Last Night of dIRE sTRAITS, performed by Brothers in Band. 27 Apr: Tina Turner in concert. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 2 Apr: The Greatest Love of All. The Whitney Houston show. 30 Apr: Anastacia in concert. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Blue Man Show The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Bimah, the Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but there are frequent

Juliette and the Licks Huxleys Neue Welt, April 20

De/Vision

A D V E R TO R IAL

Lido, April 23

The Iron Maidens Columbia Theater, April 28

Adam Lambert Huxleys Neue Welt, April 29

Ballet & Classical Seiji Ozawa Berlin Philharmonie, 8, 10 April

Giselle Deutsche Oper Berlin, 15, 21 & 28 April

Romeo & Juliet Deutsche Oper Berlin, 15, 21 & 28 April

Hans Zimmer Mercedes-Benz Arena, 20 April Tina, The Rock Legend, on 27 April at Tempodrom.

Exitus: Are You Brave Enough? Welcome to the Berlin of 1922. The streets are dirty, gloomy, and filled with sinister creatures. Who can you trust? Rumors about a serial killer — a man named Carl Großmann who slaughters prostitutes and turns them into sausages — run rampant around town. More than 100 women appear to have fallen victim. The real-life serial killer eluded detection until his very last victim, the unfortunate Marie Nitsche… Will you be an accomplice and end up in prison? Or will you be able to escape? Find out with Exitus, the brand-new experience of dark humor and suspense at Berlin Dungeon, featuring the city’s highest indoor free-fall tower! Only one question remains: Are you brave enough for the darkest drop into the unknown? Berlin Dungeon. Spandauer Str. 2. www.thedungeons.com

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The Singing Clarinet In the 18th century, Eastern Europe was dotted with small, Yiddish-speaking Jewish communities whose everyday joy and sorrows were accompanied by the wailing clarinets and passionate violins of the klezmorim, or musicians. The klezmer genre emigrated to the U.S. with the mass immigrations of Jews, absorbing elements of jazz and experiencing a renaissance that still continues today. One of its leading interpreters is clarinetist Giora Feidman, known for outstanding technical skills and the almosthuman voice of his clarinet. On 7 April, Feidman, together with the Rastrelli Cello Quartet, plays at the Konzerthaus for an entertaining dialogue between his woodwind instrument and four cellos. 7 April. www.konzerthaus.de

An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: ROOTS family stories, a new circus performance by Cirk La Putyka. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and shows at this modern theater. All month: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. www. palast.berlin. Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www. comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Beyond the Horizon The 1800-seat Theater Potsdamer Platz designed by Renzo Piano presents Beyond the Horizon, a musical (German with English surtitles) about the

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 4–6 Mar: Sharon Brauner & Band. 8–14 Apr: Ennio, the living paper cartoon. 24 Apr–15 May: Briefs, The Second Coming, Auzzie humor en travesti. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Festival International New Drama

Previous page: Tina The Rock Legend: press image, © marika weber; This page: Giora Feidman: press image.

Chamäleon Variete

fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www. stage-entertainment.de. Theater am Potsdamer Platz Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

7 – 17 April 2016

Yiddish song performances. Check website for info. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstrasse. E3

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

The beer selection at Kaschk

The Art & Craft Of Beer Not all beers are created equal. And as a growing contingent of beer drinkers and brewers have been discovering, beer can be much more than beer – the boozy beverage is also rife with gastronomic potential. The art of brewing beer in small batches with the utmost care, independent from any corporate control or industrial shortcuts, has been dubbed craft brewing. The movement has taken off around the world, and here in Berlin, there are now numerous bars that have made these flavorful craft beers their specialty. Arguably the most exhaustive selection is to be found at Hopfenreich (Soraurer Str. 31, www. hopfenreich.de), a lively Kreuzberg drinking hole that has upwards of 15 beers on tap at any given time, plus a wide selection of bottled brews from Berlin, all corners of Europe, and beyond. Ever tried a coffee porter, red oat ale, or milk stout? You can here. A sun-drenched café by day and a craft beer bar by night, Kaschk (Linienstr. 30, www.

Dolden Mädel's comfortable interior.

kaschk.de) is a welcoming spot in Mitte for beer enthusiasts of all stripes. Like Hopfenreich, Kaschk has a wide range of international brews both on tap and in the bottle, from light, hoppy IPAs to richer, deeper stouts and porters, plus occasional surprises

like cider. For a little drinking entertainment, Kaschk also features the first shuffleboard tables in Germany. Down in Neukölln lies Bergschloss (Kopfstr. 59, www.berlinerberg.com), the recently opened taproom of the Berliner Berg craft brewery. The rotating kegs always include a couple of Berliner Berg’s own brews, such as the Schwarzfahrer stout or their fruity pale ale, and the bar’s specialty includes seasonal beer cocktails as well. With so many craft beer spots to choose from, Dolden Mädel (Mehringdamm 80, www.doldenmaedel.de) has something that sets it apart from the others: a comprehensive menu for those who like to eat well while they drink. The roomy space, with its arched ceilings reminiscent of a church, serves some of the most gourmet burgers in town. Though the brews here are a bit more Germanfocused than the competition, drinkers will nonetheless be spoiled for choice, with up to 20 rotating beers on tap.

Kaschk Beer. courtesy of kaschk; dolden maedel: courtesy of dolden maedel.

Berlin is in the midst of a beer revival, with discriminating drinkers going cuckoo for craft beers. Hilda Hoy sipped her way through the city’s best spots to imbibe.

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Kaschk Beer. courtesy of kaschk; dolden maedel: courtesy of dolden maedel.

Beer Ankerklause A canal-side nautical tavern. Drinks come with beautiful views of boats passing by. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm) www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

WWW.CITADEL-MUSIC-FESTIVAL.DE

ANNENMAYKANTEREIT

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

19. AUG

BEIRUT CYPRESS HILL 09. JUL

EDITORS ELEMENT OF CRIME KOOL SAVAS LIONEL RICHIE 17. JUL

26. AUG

NIEDECKENS BAP PENTATONIX 14. JUL

08. JUN

PIXIES PJ HARVEY PUR 28. AUG

20. JUN

18. JUL

ROXETTE VOLBEAT 21. JUL

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1 A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

16. JUL

28. JUN

Prater

Schleusenkrug

13. JUN

07. JUN

ZITADELLE | BERLIN AM JULIUSTURM 64 · DE-13599 BERLIN

Berlin

INFO-HOTLINE: +49 (0)30 - 30 10 6 80 85

Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Clubs Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Amber Suite This fun club for over-27s is the perfect place to socialize while dancing and drinking. There are two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with

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NIGHTLIFE of Friedrichshain, Wilde Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners. Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www.renate.cc. Alt-Stralau 70. T: 030.25041426. S Treptower Park, S Ostkreuz. H4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Suicide Circus Friday is techno night, while Saturdays lean more toward house and tech-house at Suicide Circus, a trendy and sweaty club that has hosted some of the best DJs in Europe. Outdoor dance floor in summer. Wed–Sun. www.suicide-berlin.com. Revaler Str. 99. S Warschauer Straße. H4

Limonadier's house-made liqueurs come in a tantalizing array of flavors. Don't leave without trying the Lavendel Gimlet. Nostitzstr. 12. www.limonadier.de

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus

to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Magnet Club Rock, indie, and punk evenings, and dance floors both indoors and outdoors. Open Tue–Sun. www.magnet-club.de. Falckensteinstr. 48. T: 030.44008140. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

The Pearl

Felix Club

Prince Charles

A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-endberlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Wine & Cocktails Bar Tausend

One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

A stylish club set in an old swimming pool building. Tiled walls and concrete flooring are the main elements of its décor. Cocktail bar in the evening, wild dance club at night. Fri–Sun night. www.princecharlesberlin.com. Prinzenstr. 85F. U Moritzplatz. F4

Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Buck and Breck

Berlin’s wildest club and nightlife scene is concentrated along Revaler Straße, near Warschauer Straße.

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. T: 030.26367875. U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

The Roses Berlin Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Salon zur Wilden Renate In an old residential building on the cooler side

You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www. buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Die Weinerei

€1 will get you a glass, which you can fill as many times as you want. Before you leave, leave as much money as you think your evening was worth. Friendly, unpretentious atmosphere, and good, organic food. Mon–Fri 1–8pm, Sat 11am–8pm. www.weinerei.com. Veteranenstr. 14. T: 030.4406983. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

courtesy of limonadier

barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609. U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

Tresor

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THE GUIDE | ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

AUTOBAHN: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; COURTESY OF ARMINIUS MARKTHALLE; THOMAS MUNKO AND THE RITZ-CARLTON: COURTESY OF THE RITZ-CARLTON BERLIN.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

ASK THE CONCIERGE Thomas Munko, President of the German Society of the Golden Keys and Chief Concierge at The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin, shares his city tips, from hidden gems to must-see sights. Why do visitors ask the concierge for help?

Because they need a companion they can trust and who's familiar with the city. What are the most popular requests?

We get all kinds – from recommendations on what to do, to advice on traveling through the country, or with assistance with personal queries. Can you share a funny story?

An Australian colleague once received a phone call from a guest complaining about a malfunction. Well, the hotel had no in-room microwaves – the guest had tried to heat up his sandwich in the safe. Berlin's hidden gems?

Berlin has a great public transportation system that's easy to use and brings you around very quickly. I personally prefer walking. It gives you a more in-depth impression of the city. A restaurant you recommend?

Berlin has a new first-class “local-seasonal” restaurant, Einsunternull (Hannoversche Str. 1), where eating becomes an experiment. A German specialty visitors should not miss?

Königsberger Klopse, an old East Prussian recipe consisting of veal meatballs in a white sauce with capers. Try it at either Marjellchen (Mommsenstr. 9) or Tiergartenquelle (Bachstr. 6)

If you're into wine, beer, coffee or other culinary delights, I recommend the Arminius Markthalle (Arminiusstr. 2). Its location is not really on the tourist radar, so it's perfect to experience authentic scenery, right in the heart of the up-and-coming district of Moabit.

Driving 200 km/h (125 mph) on a German Autobahn with a Porsche while eating bratwurst and listening to German bands like Rammstein, Paul Kalkbrenner, and the Beatsteaks.

There are many ways to travel around Berlin. What's your favorite?

Images: The Autobahn; the Arminius Markthalle; The Ritz-Carlton Berlin; Thomas Munko.

The quintessential German experience?

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy www.wheretraveler.com 61

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ESSENTIALS a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

Toll number: 0180.6003690

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

S-Nordbahnhof may not look very striking, but the station has a fascinating story. At the end of WWII, when Berlin was divided into the Soviet sector in the east and the Allied sector in the west, Nordbahnhof ended up in a rather awkward position. Trains in this north-south tunnel, which were operated by West Berlin, had to pass through Nordbahnhof, which lay in East Berlin territory. From 1961 to 1989, when the Berlin Wall divided the city, trains proceeded through the station without stopping – making it a “ghost station” – and Western passengers were greeted by the sight of armed East German guards on the platform. A permanent exhibition on the concourse level tells the station's history, including the escape attempts made.

Real Estate Agencies Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, entire buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

Allianz Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com. Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Berlin Capital Investments

this real estate agency is present nationwide. Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de. Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22. T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Engel & Voelkers One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr. 34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Guthmann Estate

Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Visit website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com. T: 030.52009700.

Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients and provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Berlin Hyp Immobilien

HIHC Horvat

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. Olympische Str. 1. T: 030.33099930. U Neu Westend. Off Map

Tax-Free Shopping

Berlin Yield Estate

Virtu - Finest Real Estate

Lost Cards and Cheques

German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16. T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren Covers a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offers rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30. T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network,

Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60. T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3

Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research before the client’s arrival. www.yourplaceberlin.com.

Daniel ullrich/flickr.com

Public Ferries

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PASS BERLIN

BVG licence number: BVG-0024.15.

Daniel ullrich/flickr.com

FREE TRAVEL ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT

CITY GUIDE

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STARTING AT 25 €

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ESSENTIALS

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Where now | sophie von oswald

Sophie von Oswald Food Events organizer

Born in Hamburg, raised in Australia, and now settled in Berlin after a stint in London, globetrotting Sophie von Oswald is driven by two passions: food and creativity. In addition to working as a caterer and foodconcept strategist, she organizes Das Brunch, a series of pop-up brunches held in unique spaces around town. Give it a try this month! FInd out when and where at www.facebook.com/ dasbrunch. What is Das Brunch about? I started Das Brunch because I wanted to bring together some of my experiences growing up in Sydney, where breakfast is considered sacred. We find unassuming locations that are typical to Berlin and create an experience entirely centered around breakfast. We source most of our produce from Berlin’s small independent businesses, so it’s also a lot about showcasing and celebrating the growing food community. What is particularly great about brunch? So many things! It’s the first meal of the day. It features eggs and runny yolks. It’s accompanied by good coffee. It’s slow, relaxed and decadent. It’s a weekend celebration. And from a chef’s perspective, the options are limitless.

Standard (Sonnenallee 83) has a delicious changing brunch menu. And favorite restaurants? I just discovered L’Eustache, a lovely little French eatery with delicious food, natural wines and a lovely vibe (Weisestr. 49). Everything is handmade and the flavors are on point. SSAM (Kottbusser Damm 96) is very fun and has delicious Korean BBQ.

What can people look forward to at your event this month? Great food, a beautiful location, good coffee and music, and lots of local Berlin produce from small, independent purveyors.

The food scene in Berlin has changed a great deal over the last few years. What do you think brought this about? Berlin has quite a low barrier to entry. The rents are still relatively cheap, and the market is wide open. The last few years have seen a lot of young, enterprising people from all over the world move here. I think the food will continue to get better and better and that we’re going to see lots more exciting and fun food concepts come out of Berlin.

What are some of your favorite places in the city for brunch? Silo Coffee (Gabriel-Max-Str. 4) – I usually get the shakshuka with chorizo, or Distrikt Coffee (Bergstr. 68) for poached eggs. Industry

What part of the city do you call home? I live in Kreuzberg’s Wrangelkiez. It’s a wonderful area that has seen a lot of change over the past few years. I love how close I am to Markthalle Neun, the dirty but somehow

lovely Görlitzer Park, lots of great restaurants and bars, and that I’m also walking distance from Neukölln and the beautiful canals. Imagine you had an entire day to spend in Berlin. Where would you go? I would grab a coffee at Café Neun (Eisenbahnstr. 43), then stroll through the market and wander up the canals to spend some time by the water with a good book. I would stop for lunch at Cocolo Ramen, grab another coffee at Concierge (Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39-40), walk over to Rixdorf and wander the quaint streets, including the Trödelmarkt antique market on Richardstraße. From there I would catch the U-Bahn to Gleisdreieck, one of my favorite parks, check out the collection at the Berlinische Galerie, and finish off the day with some delicious food at Cevicheria Berlin (Dresdener Str. 120) followed by a cocktail at Würgeengel (Dresdener Str. 122) or a glass of German wine at Ottorink (Dresdener Str. 124). Clockwise from top left: Distrikt Coffee; Sophie Von Oswald; Das Brunch; Markthalle Neun; the interior of Café Neun; a stand at Markthalle Neun.

distrikt coffee: courtesy of distrikt coffee; sophie von oswald: photo by rebecca crawford; das brunch: photo by alexander zuber; markthalle neun: courtesy of markthalle neun; cafe neun: courtesy of cafe neun.

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