Where Magazin März 2016 by Where Berlin/ DINAMIX Media GmbH

M A RCH 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

Berlin

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

BOWIE'S BERLIN Paying homage to a legend

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB MAR COVERS _SV.indd 9

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BEST OF FASHION MORE THAN 300 SHOPS Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm

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Berlin

03.16

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

36 14

5 Editor’s Note

SHOPPING

6 Hot Dates

Bright, bold, and beautiful! Makeup that will make you stand out from the crowd.

Highlights of this month's events, from Beatlemania to Yo-Yo Ma.

SIGHTSEEING

Answer the call of the wild and visit the Zoologischer Garten.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Too late for breakfast, too XX for lunch - bring on early the lazy weekend brunch.

10 58 My Perfect Day Gal Ben Moshe As owner and talented head chef of Glass, he is well informed on where one can eat well in Berlin.

ENTERTAINMENT

A Pink Floyd tribute, Cuban sounds, and more. NIGHTLIFE

Also Inside

Down a pint of Guinness in honor of Ireland's patron saint.

54 Ask The Concierge Sam Ndiaye of the Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm proves to be the perfect tour guide. M A RCH 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

DINING

Berlin

ESSENTIALS

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

Where Now

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

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BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS

08/02/2016 15:59

Catch circus acrobatics at Chamäleon Theater.

Allee

Plat Platz der Republik Re

David Bowie, © John Robert Rowlands.

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB MAR COVERS _SV.indd 9

BUS 100 100

BY CLAUDIA KOKSCH

47 Czech Puppet Masters

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ON THE COVER

Locations that still ring with the voice of the late musical great.

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14 David Bowie's Berlin

A selection of looks fit for frolicking and more.

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BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

16 In The Park

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Three experts ensure success in exploring the city's food, fashion, and antique scenes.

BUS TXLL

Paying homage to a legend

10 Shopping Success

H.-v.GagernStr.

BOWIE'S BERLIN

ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE: COURTESY OF ADMIRALSPALAST; STRAWBERRIES: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; DARMSTADT MADONNA: HANS HOLBEIN D.J.: DIE MADONNA DES BÜRGERMEISTERS JAKOB MEYER ZUM HASEN, 1526/28. © WÜRTH; POLAR BEAR AND MARKET: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; DAVID BOWIE: © JOHN ROBERT ROWLANDS.

Powerful and provocative – XX take a look at Martin-GropiusBau's new exhibitions.

B Mu

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Two Fabulous Years Wish us happy birthday! That’s right, because we turn two this month. In these two exciting years of Where Berlin, we have watched the city transform the way only Berlin does. We went to the opening of the Bikini Berlin mall and the Mall of Berlin, we celebrated 25 years without the Wall, we've watched the "City West" regain its former splendor, and much more. Whoever said that Berlin is "losing its cool" was wrong. The German capital is a major center of investment for developers from around the world so it probably won't remain pleasantly run-down forever, but its creative spirit and its casual energy are not fading one bit.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

In the past months, we have been busy talking to people: we interviewed famous and non-famous Berliners, chatted with our loyal concierges to get their best tips, and asked chefs, florists, and designers to tell us what they love about the city. We want our magazine to be alive and fresh, and we think the best way to provide a current picture of this marvelous city is through the eyes of its inhabitants. So turn to page 10 for a shopping guide compiled by local experts, and to page 58 for chef Gal Ben Moshe's best food tips. And if you want to pay homage to David Bowie, who recorded some of his best albums here, turn to p. 14 for a tour of the Berlin he lived and loved.

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until May, 31st 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

BURN AFTER READING The international history of espionage from the spies mentioned in the bible to the whistleblowers and big data in the present, shown in 14 thematic areas with more than 350 exhibits in 32.000 sq ft space.

SPY MUSEUM BERLIN POTSDAMER PLATZ ENTRANCE: LEIPZIGER PLATZ 9 OPEN DAILY 10AM — 8PM

spymuseumberlin.com CUT OUT

GET A FREE SPY POSTCARD* * Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until May, 31st 2016.

w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 5

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A FEAST OF DIGITAL SOUND

11 FROM FRIDAY

The revamped MaerzMusik (March Music) returns, this year with a focus on digital technologies. As one of Germany’s most important contemporary music festivals, the 10-day event features installations, film screenings, discussions, and, of course, concerts, with highlights including Winterreise, an in-depth look at Franz Schubert’s song cycle courtesy of British artist and author Ian Bostridge. Pianist Marino Formenti opens the festival with Time to Gather, an interactive performance of compositions that range from Bach to Björk, while the epic, 30-hour The Long Now closes out the experience with sound and video installations and electronic live acts in the striking setting of Kraftwerk Berlin. Events take place at venues citywide. 11-20 Mar, www.berlinerfestspiele.de

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HOT

DATES March in Berlin is packed with exciting events, from Beatlemania to Yo-Yo Ma and contemporary music.

10/02/2016 08:57

ITB BERLIN FROM SATURDAY

Feed your wanderlust at ITB Berlin, the world’s largest travel trade fair. Open to the public for just two days, the expo is packed with exhibits from tour operators, airlines, hotels, and tourism bureaus that will leave you longing to pack your bags and discover the world. Look forward to music performances, food tastings, and folk dances from faraway lands like this year’s partner country, the Maldives. www.itb-berlin.de

MACKLEMORE & RYAN LEWIS MONDAY

The lovable hip-hop duo who made it big with their 2013 comical smash single, Thrift Shop, delighted fans last year when they announced the release of their highly anticipated second album. This month, they return to the Mercedes-Benz-Arena, bringing with them all the fun and energy of their latest hit, Downtown. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

18 FROM FRIDAY

FESTTAGE FESTIVAL 2016

Since its founding by conductor Daniel Barenboim 20 years ago, the annual Festtage festival has attracted an impressive roster of world-class performers. This month, the festival returns with several highlights that classical music fans won’t want to miss: concerts by renowned Argentinian pianist Martha Argerich and Yo-Yo Ma, undoubtedly the world’s most famous cellist, plus a guest appearance by the Vienna Philharmonic. www.staatsoper-berlin.de

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ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE

TUESDAY

Beatlemania lives on! Relive the unforgettable music of The Fab Four at Admiralspalast with All You Need Is Love! show. The musical tells the story of the most famous band of all time, with a live band providing the accompaniment for more than 30 of the Beatles’ greatest hits. www.mehr.de

UNTIL SUNDAY

LAST CHANCE! DÜRERKENTRIDGE

He also made paintings, but Bavarian artist Albrecht Dürer is especially famed for his engravings and woodcut prints, which were incredibly detailed and ambitious compared to other prints from the 15th century. Until 6 March, see scores of his works in the Double Vision exhibition at Kulturforum, which contrasts the Renaissance master’s pieces with prints by contemporary South African artist William Kentridge. www.smb.museum

24 THURSDAY

THE MAGIC FLUTE

After an extended travel break, the Komische Oper’s famed rendition of The Magic Flute finally returns to the Komische Oper stage at the end of this month. Opera intendant and artistic director Barrie Kosky gave the classic Mozart opera a thrilling, action-packed twist, with a kaleidoscope of colorful background animation and riveting styling à la the silent film era of yesteryear. www.komische-oper-berlin.de 8 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2016

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MARCH

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Start off the month with the thrilling Holiday on Ice: Passion show at Tempodrom. Picasso fans won't want to miss the collection of masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen. Admire the artful ballerinas of the Berlin Staatsballett in Giselle at Staatsoper tonight. Combine art and opera with Mozart's La Finta Giardiniera at the Bode Museum. Enjoy music & tropical climes at the Botanical Garden Palmensinfonie greenhouse concert. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. See the stars of tomorrow, the Junge Deutsche Philharmonie, play at Konzerthaus. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Discover the groundbreaking photos of artist Cindy Sherman at me Collectors Room. Enjoy ultimate relaxation in the flotation pool and saunas of Kreuzberg's Liquidrom spa. Let the sunshine in! Sing along with the 1960s-era musical Hair at Admiralspalast. Tap your toes with the rousing beats of the Musikparade fest at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Enjoy breakfast with a side of symphony at the Mozart Matinee at Konzerthaus. Take a day trip out west to warm up in Potsdam's tropical Biosphaere. Catch the rhythm of Cuban dance and song with Ballet Revolución at Admiralspalast. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus – "caffeine for the ears." Wear something green and head to the nearest pub. It's St. Patrick's Day! Kick off the weekend at Becketts Kopf, Prenzlauer Berg's best cocktail bar. Cheer on Berlin's Alba basketball team as they play at the Mercedes-Benz Arena. Sundays are for brunching. Enjoy the Russian spread at Datscha, Gabriel-Max-Str. 1. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English. Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park. Visit Chamäleon Varieté to see Czech circus masters in the ROOTS family stories show. Komische Oper's celebrated version of Mozart's Magic Flute returns tonight.

Kick off Easter with a Good Friday organ concert at the iconic Berliner Dom. Enjoy a Saturday night out at Kreuzberg's craft cocktail hangout, John Muir bar. Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegasstyle show at Friedrichstadt-Palast. Have a swinging Easter! The Philharmonie hosts the music of the Brass Brand Berlin. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Prepare the kleenex for the ultimate love tragedy Romeo and Juliet at Deutsche Oper.

Warm up with coffee and Apfelstrudel at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus.

ALEXANDER SCHUBERT, © PROMO; MACKLEMORE & RYAN LEWIS: COURTESY OF MERCEDES-BENZ-ARENA; ITB:© ITB BERLIN; FESTTAGE: OPENING EVENT: © THOMAS BARTILLA. ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE: COURTESY OF ADMIRALSPALAST; ALBRECHT DÜRER: MELENCOLIA I, 1514. KUPFERSTICH, 23,8 X 18,5 CM . © BPK / STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, KUPFERSTICHKABINETT / JÖRG P. ANDERS; THE MAGIC FLUTE: PHOTO BY IKO FREESE / DRAMA-BERLIN.DE.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section

10/02/2016 09:06

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING MISSIONS

With the help of three Berlin experts, Solveig Steinhardt scanned the city to uncover the shops that best define the German capital.

he Berlin style is just like the city itself: eclectic, avant-garde yet austere, with a bit of luxury on its higher end and a pinch of understated elegance to garnish it all. With so many concept stores, industrial warehouses transformed into pop-ups, and

vintage markets elevating GDR kitsch to design heights, the line between shopping and sightseeing is sometimes hard to discern. To simplify the Berlin shopping experience, we’ve asked three experts to provide their individual takes on shopping in the capital.

Berlin For Gourmands Luisa Weiss, food blogger and author – www.thewednesdaychef.com An Italian-American who spent part of her childhood in Berlin, Luisa Weiss knows that the capital is climbing its way up the gourmet ladder faster than any other European city. Luisa has been writing her successful blog, The Wednesday Chef, since 2005, and has also authored My Berlin Kitchen, a memoir told through food. She is now finishing a forthcoming book on German baking.

BEST FOOD MARKETS According to Weiss, a food market must be well-balanced, with both organic and conventional vendors, plentiful snack stands, good cheese, fish, and meat selections, and good bakery options. Here are her three favorites, all of which fit the bill: • Karl-August-Platz in Charlottenburg • Winterfeldtplatz in Schöneberg • Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain

FOR YOUR SWEET TOOTH

From outdoor food markets to artisanal chocolatiers, Berlin is a city for gourmands.

Weiss’s very favorite chocolate shop is Winterfeld Schokoladen in Schöneberg (Goltzstr. 23). “It’s a gorgeous store with a really wideranging, amazing selection of chocolate from all over the world, plus they serve killer coffee and hot chocolate, if you want to take a break.” She also recommends Goldhahn & Sampson (Dunckerstr. 9) for its selection of cookbooks and assortment of Italian chocolate brands, and Sawade, “Berlin’s very own chocolatier. You can either go to one of their stores (Rosenthaler Str. 40–41) or to the factory directly (Wittestr. 26d). Not only do I like supporting a local, family-run company, but I’ve been eating their confections my whole life. I love the chic rebranding the company recently undertook, which makes the chocolates even more giftable than before, and their Marzipanbrote [marzipan loaves] are still the best.”

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PREVIOUS PAGE: PORTRAIT OF LUISA WEISS: © MAX BEUCHEL; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK PHOTOS. THIS PAGE: PORTRAIT OF ANDREA LAKEBERG: COURTESY OF ANDREA LAKEBERG; QUARTIER 206: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; KAVIAR GAUCHE; ANDREAS MURKUDIS; DEPARTMENTSTORE; OVERKILL.; NEXT PAGE: PORTRAIT OF TIM GRONERT: COURTESY OF TIM GRONERT; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK PHOTOS.

Shopping Missions

Pick Your Style

Andrea Lakeberg, personal shopper and stylist www.personal-shopper-berlin.com. Tel: 01725330533 In Berlin since 2009, Andrea Lakeberg organizes six-hour fashion and lifestyle tours of the city, chauffering clients in a VW van while sharing her stories and style tips. Her most popular stops include quirky backyard sales, concept stores, and vintage shops, as well as the city’s luxury strips. When not working, Lakeberg spends time in her Friedrichshain neighborhood, where she lives with her husband, two sons, and two dogs.

VERY BERLIN “Berlin offers a really unique and distinctive shopping experience,” says Lakeberg. And LNFA (Budapester Str. 44, www.lnfa-shop.de) in the Bikini Berlin mall is a great example of the city’s creative spirit. “Their idea is to offer small designers a space to display and sell their creations. It’s great for the designers, as they can grow and become known, and it’s fabulous for the customers, as they are sure they’re buying something nobody else has.” For an excellent selection of designer labels from Berlin and beyond, Lakeberg also recommends Voo Store (Oranienstr. 24. www.vooberlin.com), but her most popular stop is Isobel Gowdie (Alte Schönhauser Str. 39), hidden in a Mitte courtyard and stocking second-choice designer items at 50 percent off.

ACCESSORIZE AWAY Andrea says Berlin is paradise for sneaker lovers, and Overkill (Köpenicker Str. 195A, www.overkillshop.com) is living proof, with floor-to-ceiling displays of sports shoes and accessories. For something a bit more elegant, there’s Riccardo Cartillone (Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 44, www.riccardocartillone.de), an Italian designer who’s been in town long enough for his designs to claim Berlin citizenship. And those looking for some truly unconventional jewelry should check out Sabrina Dehoff (Torstr. 175, www.sabrinadehoff. com), whose designs are seasonal, theme-based, and strongly linked to local fashion trends.

LAKEBERG’S BASTIONS OF LUXURY Departmentstore – Anne Maria Jagdfeld, owner and founder of this concept store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall, travels the world to select the brands and products that best reflect her lifestyle and taste in fashion, cosmetics, and art, as well as tea and floral creations. Friedrichstr. 71, www.dsq206.com. Kaviar Gauche – The Berlin designer specializes in cocktail dresses and bridal wear inspired by street wear, in pure Berlin style. Linienstr. 44, www.kaviargauche.com Apartment – To get to this semi-secret space, you’ll have to descend a spiral staircase in the corner of what looks like an abandoned shop. Downstairs lies an airy white room filled with designer garments and accessories. Memhardtstr. 8, www.apartmentberlin.de Andreas Murkudis –Berlin’s go-to spot for high-end fashion features only items the designer would wear himself, with prices ranging from €30 to €1000. Potsdamer Str. 81E, www.andreasmurkudis.de

The Quartier 206 luxury mall; bridal wear by Kaviar Gauche; Andreas Murkudis’ showroom, the women’s section at Departmentstore; Overkill. w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING MISSIONS

With A Touch of History Tim Gronert, antique dealer. www.gronert.com A born-and-raised Berliner, Tim Gronert is also a born-and-raised antique dealer: His parents founded the Gronert Kunsthandel shop (Giesebrechtstr. 10) in 1968, investing 3000 Marks (ca. €1500) they’d saved and borrowed from friends. Since then, the business has blossomed into one of the most prestigious Berlin addresses for art and antiques. The shop is internationally known for its expertise in KPM ceramics, and when it comes to objects with a history, Tim sure knows his way around Berlin.

GDR TREASURES “Finding that one, edgy GDR household item of the 1970s is still possible in Berlin. With lots of luck, you can be successful at Antikmarkt am Ostbahnhof (S Ostbahnhof) – if not, try Schönhauser Design (Alte Schönhauser Str. 28) or VEBorange (Oderberger Str. 29), two interior design shops with a strong emphasis on used or reproduced East German living accessories.”

BEST FLEA MARKET “Though finding valuable antiques at a flea market is difficult, the weekend market on Straße des 17. Juni is always fun to visit. A few stalls focus on very specific themes (antique frames, prints and school maps, English loom furniture), but the others generally offer contemporary reproductions rather than authentic originals.”

MID-CENTURY MODERN “The 20th-century design world is covered quite nicely in Berlin, with shops or half-private floors like Jacksons Berlin (Lindenstr. 34, www.jacksons.de), a satellite of Jacksons Stockholm, specializing in Nordic modernism, or Galerie Ulrich Fiedler (Mommsenstr. 59, www.ulrichfiedler.com), stocking Schinkel to Bauhaus. More knick knacks from roughly 1860 to 1960 are to be found on Suarezstraße, one of the oldest antique roads in Berlin, where at least 15 shops wait for customers with an appreciation for the good old days.”

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15/02/2016 10:56

Two Millennia of German Jewish History in Daniel Libeskind‘s landmark building

Open daily 10 am – 8 pm, Mondays 10 am – 10 pm

CURRENT SPECIAL EXHIBITION

Lindenstr. 9 – 14 · 10969 Berlin · Germany · T +49 (0)30 – 25993 300

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Audio guides available in English, Deutsch, Français, Italiano, Español, ‫עברית‬, 日本語, pусский

#jmberlin

www.jmberlin.de

10/02/2016 14:35

Where now | DAVID BOWIE

BOWIE’S

BERLIN E

ven though he spent less than three years in Berlin, David Bowie is so intrinsically tied to the city that, on the day of his passing, he was thanked via Twitter by Germany’s Foreign Office for “helping to bring down the #wall.” And when David Bowie Is…, the exhibition of more than 300 Bowie artifacts, toured the world, Berlin was, naturally, one of the few stops. The music giant’s legacy lives on from Charlottenburg to Schöneberg, and several neighborhoods in between. Diehard fans looking to pay homage should start the tribute tour at Hauptstraße 155, the nondescript building where Bowie and friend/artistic collaborator Iggy Pop lived during their Berlin residency, from 1976–1979. Although you can’t go inside, you can peek in the foyer, which also has a cameo in Bowie’s 2013 video for Where Are We Now?, itself an homage to his adopted hometown. Days after his death, thousands of Berliners signed a petition to change the name of the street to David-Bowie-Straße, putting up the sign right next to the singer’s former building. Just down from Bowie’s former abode lies Neues Ufer (Hauptstr. 157), where the roommates would habitually breakfast in the morning and tipple in the evening, and where you can still stop by to tip your hat to the image of Bowie’s alter ego, the Thin White Duke. Other favorite haunts of the duo are, alas, no longer, such as the bohemian Café Exil, which Bowie and Pop treated much like their second living room and which has been reincarnated into upscale eatery Horváth (p. 43). And although Café Wien, which played the role of the Eden Bar in the Bowie film Just a Gigolo, has also vanished, you can still visit the space, which has transformed into Apple’s flagship store on the Ku’damm. Bowie once described Berlin as “the greatest cultural extravaganza that one

could imagine,” and he took great pleasure in the city’s wealth of arts and history, most notably in his admiration for the artists of the Brücke Museum (p. 37). There, he drew inspiration for the album cover to the madein-Berlin “Heroes”, although opinions vary as to which of the artworks — including Erich Heckel’s Roquairol and Walter Grammotté’s self-portrait — was the greatest inspiration. Because the musical collaboration between the two friends was so intertwined, the works of die Brücke movement similarly influenced the cover of Pop’s debut solo album, The Idiot, also released in 1977. Although the museum, located outside the city center in the leafy enclave of Zehlendorf, still stands, the works rotate frequently, so only serendipity can assure that you catch one of Bowie’s favorites. To Bowie — and, by extension, Pop — Berlin was as much an alcoholdrenched playground as it was cultural idyll, and he seemed to have a favorite watering hole in nearly every Kiez. While Schöneberg and Kreuzberg were home to the majority of his haunts, when he and Pop wanted to revel in style, they often headed west to Charlottenburg’s Paris Bar (Kantstr. 152), the site of Pop’s infamous Rolling Stone interview that ended with his rolling about in the snow. When they wanted to catch up on the latest Krautrock and new-wave acts, their venue of choice was SO36 (Oranienstr. 190), often cited as a rival of the now-defunct CBGB and to this day an influential institution for breaking new bands. When not creating art or finding inspiration in the city’s many dens of iniquity,

Bowie could most likely be found at Hansa, the recording studio where the three albums of his unofficial “Berlin trilogy” were produced. Visitors can tour the facility and even peer out the same window that Bowie sat at as he penned “Heroes.” (Book through Berlin Music Tours, p. 35, which also offers a citywide Bowiethemed tour.) Even well after moving away from the German capital, Bowie continued to pay homage to the city. The 2013 release Where Are We Now? name-checks Berlin landmarks past and present, from KaDeWe to the long-defunct Dschungel nightclub, while the song’s video showcases further renowned sites. Memories of the late legend echo in most every corner of the city, which, as long as it stands, will continue to pay tribute to one of its most beloved adopted sons.

David bowie: photo by john robert rowlands.

Jenna Rose Robbins pays homage with a visit to locations that still ring with the voice of the late musical great.

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David bowie: photo by john robert rowlands.

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WHERE NOW | A WALK IN THE PARK

IN THE PARK Suit up for a springtime stroll with Claudia Koksch's picks for the season.

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1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex Boutique, Kurfürstendamm 184. 2. Barbour, Kurfürstendamm 26A. 3. IKKS, Neue Schönhauser Str. 16. 4. Barbour Heritage Store, Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 5. Navyboot, Kurfürstendamm 40/41. 6. Filippa K, Kurfürstendamm 29. 7. By Malene Birger, www.bymalenebirger.com.

LEAVES: © ISTOCK PHOTOS

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Mad About Makeup Part of the enjoyment of a night out is feeling confident and standing out from the crowd. Paint the town red – or pink or mauve, or the season's hot hue, peach – with the help of some of Berlin's most noble names in makeup. Turkish brand Flormar (www.flormar.com) goes by the motto “color for every you,” which is readily apparent as you step into the store at the Mall of Berlin. Starting off as Turkey’s number-one choice for nail polish over 40 years ago, Flormar now also offers lipsticks in bold shades, innovative mascaras, technologically advanced foundations, and blushes for flawless skin. NYX (www.nyxcosmetics.de), which you can find at Parfümerie Douglas stores throughout the city, is named after the ancient Greek goddess of the night. Founded in 1999 in Los Angeles by young entrepreneur Toni Ko, NYX

creates quality cosmetics at reasonable prices, with the bonus of ultramodern packaging and a huge selection of products – such as the sparkling Wicked Lippies multi-hued selection of lipstick and glosses. Berlin-based brand UND GRETEL (www. undgretel.com) describes itself as makeup with a fashion heart and a pure soul, inspired as much by fresh green leaves as by the avant-garde edge that defines Berlin's style. Makeup artist and founder Christina

Roth set out to create the most luxurious formulas using the purest natural ingredients, from avocado oil to chamomile extract and mineral pigments. Another Berliner, Kryolan (www.kryolancity.de) has been supplying the entertainment industry for more than 60 years, which makes it one of the world’s first professional makeup brands. The extensive range can be found at the Kryolan City boutique on the Ku’damm, where you can peruse colors that are strong enough to last all night long – and cover all the evidence the morning after. Eyeshadow by UND GRETEL

MAIN MAGE: ©ISTOCK PHOTOS; SMALL IMAGE: COURTESY OF UND GRETEL.

Gwyneth Paltrow once said, “Beauty, to me, is about being comfortable in your own skin. That, or a hot red lipstick.” Annabelle Mallia totally agrees.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 13 March, 22 May, 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

main mage: ©istock photos; small image: courtesy of und gretel.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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SHOPPING Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Airfield Exclusive, extraordinary, personal. This Austrian brand sells what they call “fashion made with passion,” blurring the boundaries between sporty and classy outfits and harmoniously combining styles to create wearable garments for everyone, leaving lots of room for individual and personal interpretations. www.airfield.at. Mall of Berlin. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Atelier Einhundert Here you can try on Berlin fashion label Sigorzia and watch designers Silke Gorzialka at work. From classic shirts for the office to elegant dresses for a special event, all pieces are handmade in small batches in her onsite atelier. www.einhundert-berlin.de. Torstr.100. T: 030.53796097. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Barbour Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Bimba y Lola Founded by two sisters, the Spanish label specializes in fashion and accessories – all designed by a team in their 20s – that combine modern flair with Spanish playfulness. www.bimbaylola.com. Weinmeisterstr. 9b. T: 030.28096770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20644265. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS

Fashion Store Or Museum? Stepping into Frank Leder’s 2.Stock store in Charlottenburg is like entering a hall of curiosities. Glass jars of preserved strawberries, pears, and beans piled up on a table, old shelves showcasing Leder's own cosmetic line, and an old glass case in the middle of the showroom containing a large bundle of horsehair, which the designer uses to pad his winter jackets, are quirky and evocative reminders of times gone by. Leder's fashion creations focus on high-quality and textured materials, with figure-hugging cotton shirts, woolen and felt pants, vests, and pullovers. Take a look at the store's website, populated by unusual characters modeling his clothes – from chimney sweepers to hunters and WWII POWs – and you'll get a feel for the store's concept. Whether or not you decide to buy, a visit to 2.Stock is a shopping experience unique to Berlin. Kantstr. 139. T: 030 69567548. www.frank-leder.com www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer | depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories just to name a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gretchen Store Berlin

The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Eclectic combinations of shiny glazed and waxed leathers and elaborate design elements are distinct to the Berlin-based Gretchen look. On offer are exclusive leather bags and accessories, including the signature, award-winning Tango Pouch. www.mygretchen.com. Rosenthalerstr. 4041, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4. T: 030.20215165. S Hackesher Markt, U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cinque

Liu Jo

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views.

Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary

and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

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Walter Moser GmbH, 4863 Seewalchen am Attersee, Industriegebiet 2, T + 43 / 7662 / 31 75-0, E office@airfield.at, www.airfield.at

YO U C A N F I N D U S N O W O N I N S TA G R A M , FA C E B O O K & P I N T E R E S T !

www.airfield.at www.airfield-onlineshop.com S H O P T H E A I R F I E L D E-M A G A Z I N E : W W W.A I R F I E L D-M A G A Z I N.C O M

AIRFIELD Store Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, 10117 Berlin Phone +49(0)30 20622260, Mail shop.berlin@airfield.at

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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ROLEX BOUTIQUE

MCM

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

With the aim of always creating modern and progressive ideas, MCM has redefined luxury and revolutionized classic design with its modern aesthetics. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means their lines are as waterresistant and durable as they are luxurious. Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de

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bagatt Milano Epitomizing the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known, bagatt Milano stands for fine Italian craftsmanship, applying these high quality standards into its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. From contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear to elegant heels, the bagatt Milano store is a shoe-lover’s paradise. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777 bagattberlino@gmail.com

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PREmIUm LINEN mESH SwEATER 29,90 € PREmIUm LINEN TUNIC 34,90 €

NATURAL BEAUTY

IT’S A COmFORT IN ONE’S OwN SkIN, A mOdERN LOOk SPUN FROm STRANdS OF NATURAL FIBER, dESIGNEd FOR LIFE TOdAY.

UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE · Tauentzienstr. 7 B/C UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ · Leipziger Platz 16 Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 05.02.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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shop stop

TRÜFFELSCHWEIN

FROSCH & KÖNIGIN

ATELIER EINHUNDERT

The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed. He simply looks better than everybody else. Trüffelschwein carries a seletion of handpicked niche brands from Europe and beyond, featuring a dynamic mix of craftsmanship and modern aesthetics. Brands include YMC, Hansen and Universal Works.

This trendy fashion store in the middle of the buzzing Mitte neighborhood carries many unique brands from all over the world. It is the go-to place for shopping queens and urban princesses who like to dress with style. Show this page and get 20% off (valid until 30 June 2016.)

Here you can try on Berlin fashion label Sigorzia and watch designer Silke Gorzialka hard at work. From classic shirts for the office to elegant dresses for a special event, all pieces are handmade in small batches in her onsite atelier.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030 70221225 www.trueffelschweinberlin.com

Rochstrasse 16. T: 030 28873734 www.froschundkoenigin.de

shop stop

Torstr. 100. Open Tue-Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat 1pm-6pm. www.einhundert-berlin.de

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

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An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 http://de.neweracap.eu

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Looking for a new cap? The largest and fastest growing headwear manufacturer in the world has a flagship store in Berlin, with more than 1000 cap styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd.

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Trippen's modern design combines the highest aesthetic demands with environmental friendliness, sustainability, and social awareness. The shoes are unique in pattern technique and design, offering customers both variety and top-quality workmanship.

Berlin-based Gretchen stands for luxurious leather handbags, accessories, and gloves with award-winning designs. Eclectic combinations and elaborate styles are this brand's distinctive elements.

Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4, Rosenthalerstr. 40. T: 030 20215165 www.mygretchen.com

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed, he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining

tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

bagatt Milano

New Era Flagship Store

Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe. www.buffalo-shop.de. See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather

Trippen Gallery Their first shoes exhibited in a Berlin art gallery in 1992 already proved to be a big success. Since then, production has expanded to a small village north of Berlin and small family businesses in northern Italy. Step inside any Trippen store and you’ll be surrounded by illuminated boxes in undulating white walls, filled with unique collections of shoes that last more than just a season. www.trippen.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 45. T: 030.24632284. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SHOPPING Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Pioneers In Denim (And More)

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. B4 C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

Famous for inventing the stone-wash distressing procedure, German brand Closed has been making quality jeans and clothing with a classic, retro flair since 1978. To create the look of Closed’s iconic pedal pusher jeans, around 100 pumice stones from Greece and Turkey are used in the stone-washing process, resulting in no pair sharing the same patterns of distress. These high-waisted jeans with unique X-shaped pockets have been a popular mainstay in the brand's collection for the past 38 years. Apart from jeans, Closed also features casual tops, accessories, and seasonal and stylish outerwear for both men and women. BIKINI BERLIN, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.26369385. www.closed.com

CONCEPT STORES Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE

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luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA at Alexanderplatz OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

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FOOD & Gourmet Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

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Markthalle Neun One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Home Décor Jens Richard Fans of beautiful design are sure to find something for they need for home at Jens Richard, an emporium of porcelain, tableware, and jewelry carefully sourced from renowned producers. www.jensrichard.de. Kurfürstendamm 63. T: 030.75543716. U Adenauerplatz. B4

KPM Berlin Once upon a time, a king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur was born. KPM Berlin still makes exquisite tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour and shop for beautiful porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085. U Kurfürstendamm. B3 www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

The Call Of The Wild The Oldest And Most Biodiverse – Founded in 1844, the Berlin Zoo is the oldest in Germany and the one with the most comprehensive animal collections in the world. It hosts 20,500 animals from more than 1500 species, some rare and endangered, including gorillas, chimps, and the black and the Indian rhinoceros. Hall Of (Animal) Fame – Every zoo has its celebrities. In the 1980s, Berlin's animal star was a giant male panda named Bao Bao. Together with his "girlfriend" Yan Yan, Bao Bao was sent from China for breeding purposes, but despite many artificial insemination attempts, reproduction proved unsuccessful, and he died without offspring at age 34. In 2006, the Berlin zoo hit the news with another tragic story. A baby polar bear had been rejected by his mother and had to be raised by his keepers. Knut, as he was named, gave rise to a major mass media phenomenon and brought the zoo a significant increase in visitors. Unfortunately, in 2011, Knut suddenly

collapsed and died in his enclosure before 600 people. War Zone – Before WWII, the Berlin zoo hosted more than 4000 animals, but starvation first and Allied bombings later decimated the population. Reportedly, the British bombings of November 1943 resulted in the escape of many large mammals, including leopards and apes. By the end of the war, only 91 animals had survived, including a black stork, two lions, a bull, an Asian elephant named Siam, and two hyenas. Nazi Directors – Animals were not the only ones to suffer the consequences of Hitler's rise to power. In 1938, zoo director Ludwig "Lutz" Heck, an active fan of Hitler's ideals,

helped Aryanize the institution by forcing its Jewish shareholders to sell their stocks at a loss. In 1939, he also banned Jews from visiting the zoo. A sign in the antelope house memorializes these tragic events. Kids First – Children are the zoo's most important visitors, and many of the attractions are designed for them. There's a petting zoo with farm animals, a gigantic playground featuring a wooden ship and fake cages for playing, and many ice cream kiosks scattered throughout. The animal feeding times are published monthly on the website, and some of them are like real performances. We won't divulge any spoilers here, but in case you are planning on attending the seal feeding, do bring raincoats or make sure to sit in the back, because it does get damp down there. Hardenbergplatz. www.zoo-berlin.de

ALL PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK PHOTOS

Berlin's Zoologischer Garten is more than just a zoo, it's a piece of the city's history. Solveig Steinhardt shares five zoo facts for a well-informed visit.

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Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Brandenburg Gate

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola

MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace

MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily

8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing

The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

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The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born,

It’s About Time Germans are known for being punctual, and this is perhaps why there are so many public clocks strategically placed around the city. The most famous of them all, Berlin’s Big Ben, is the World Time Clock on Alexanderplatz, a 16-ton, 10-m-high revolving cylinder with the world's 24 time zones and the names of major cities in each zone, topped by a simplified model of the solar system rotating every minute. Designed by Eric John, the structure was part of the GDR’s 1960s redevelopment plan for the square to outshine the extravagance of the West. It's still a popular meeting spot for friends, who come to enjoy the lively atmosphere with the famous TV tower looming in the background. www.wheretraveler.com 33

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sightseeing

Mini Guide To Gendarmenmarkt If there's a square Berliners are really proud of, it's Gendarmenmarkt. The harmonious nineteenth-century Platz is one of the standout reminders of Berlin's glorious architectural past. In the center stands Schinkel’s Konzerthaus, originally built in 1818 as a theatre and now home to the Berliner Sinfonie-Orchestra. To the north is the Französischer Dom, built in 1701 for the French Huguenots, who then made up about 25 percent of Berlin’s population. Inside the church is a museum dedicated to their community, as well as a restaurant offering a panoramic view of the city. The Deutscher Dom, on the southern end of the square, catered to the German-speaking Lutherans and Calvinists, and now houses the Bundestag’s exhibition on German parliamentary history. All of this is watched over by a monumental statue of Germany’s renowned poet Schiller.

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., 10-minute walk. Off Map

Guided Tours Berlinagenten

These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to Berlin is one of three fullyexclusive locations, people, fledged states of the Federal Holocaust Memorial shops, and clubs. Offerings Republic of Germany, the MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the include a “Pimp Me Up” spa other two being Hamburg victims of the Holocaust is as big as and makeover tour, culinary and Bremen. a soccer field and consists of 2711 experiences, private house visits, tombstone-like slabs of equal size and limo tours, and – for an authentic varying heights, placed on uneven urban experience – a graffiti workshop. ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. and disorientation. Accessible 24 hours a day. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3 Berlin Music Tours

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than

20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells

Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association

has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Adventures on offer include Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

family attractions Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

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The Artist As Canvas March brings powerful and evocative art as two exhibitions open mid-month at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Serene Tseng ponders the implications of the artist-subject. Built in 1881 in the Neo-Renaissance style and named aft.er one of its architects, Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 38) sustained heavy damage at the end of WWII and was only opened again to the public in 1981, following extensive restoration. Beginning on 12 March, the exhibition hall presents Fault Zones, featuring the works of controversial Austrian artist Günter Brus. Well known for being the co-founder of the Viennese Actionism art movement of the 1960s, Brus used his own body as a canvas, often in discomforting and unsettling ways, to provoke responses and confront outdated ideals. He effectively brought abstract forms and Austrian societal discontents into the physical, tangible world to raise awareness in his audience, but not everybody appreciated his work, and in 1968 he was sentenced to six months in prison in Austria for acts that would be considered obscene even by today's standards. To avoid detention, he fled to Berlin, where he became a force of artistic influence.

Now, 40 years later, his work returns to the German capital, to be exhibited for the first time. The show traces Viennese Actionism in a retrospective manner, exploring the societal climate in which the movement emerged. A week later, Lee Miller – Photographs opens, featuring the entire expanse of the American photojournalist's work, including many pieces on loan from the Lee Miller Archives. Miller, influenced by Surrealism, was widely noted for documenting some of the darkest moments in human history, including WWII. A famous example of Miller’s surrealist composition and artistry is a photograph of her sitting naked in Hitler’s bathtub, sandwiched between depictions of Hitler and Eva Braun. During her time as a war correspondent, Miller photographed the devastation of the London Blitz as well as the liberated concentration camps in Dachau and Buchenwald. Even now, her evocative images of the liberation of the Dachau prisoners still carry weight and power.

hitler's bathtub by lee miller. © lee miller, courtesy of martin-gropius-bau; blumenstück by Günter Brus: courtesy of martin-gropius-bau.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

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MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 16 May: The Struggle for Troy. Restored in the 19th century by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the sculptures depicting the Trojan Wars are on display once again. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 22 May: The Monk is Back focuses on the restoration process of Caspar David Friedrich’s famous painting. To 17 Jul: August Kopisch – Painter, Poet, Discoverer, Inventor . Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs,and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. From 16 Mar: Textile Design Today explores the ever-evolving world of textile design. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

HANS HOLBEIN D.J.: DIE MADONNA DES BÜRGERMEISTERS JAKOB MEYER ZUM HASEN, 1526/28. © WÜRTH

OF MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU.

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 30 Apr: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. To 8 May: Holbein in Berlin – The Madonna and Masterworks. To 15 Oct: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan-Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture,

housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Apr: Turn of an Era. From the Berlin Secession to the November Group. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 13 Mar: Max Pechstein – Pioneer of the Modern Art. 100 works from the museum’s collection, including some rarely-shown paintings. To 24 Mar: Karl Schmidt-Rottluff. Image and Self-Image features portraits and self-portraits of the painter and his companions. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-HeleneHeim. Off Map

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. From 4 Mar: Relics of the Cold War, photographs by Martin Roemers. To 3 Apr: Art from the Holocaust – 100 Works from the Yad Vashem Memorial. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 14 Mar: The Art of Beautiful Appearance is a homage to René Koch, Traviestar, Make-Up Artist, Lipstick Collector, and Charity Activist. To 12 May: Change of Scenery, objects from the museum’s archives will be brought forth, the story behind their origins and acquisition illuminated. To 26 Jun: SuperQueeroes presents, for the first time in Europe, a collection of superheroes and comic book characters falling within the LGBTI spectrum. Sun–Mon, Wed– Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www. schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 31 Jul: NO COMPROMISES! Dedicated to

the controversial art of NO! and its artist Boris Lurie.

Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www. jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. To 15 May: Faces of the Käthe Kollwitz Museum features photographs of the museum’s staff and caretakers. To 30 May:

Rediscovered! is dedicated to the start of the Berlin Secession movement, to which Kollwitz belonged.

Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. From 18 Mar: We Seek Vastness, Images of travel from Albrecht Dürer to OlafurEliasson. Tue–Fri

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and

Symbolism and Beauty In today's fast-moving world, the art of the past provides a firm cultural basis that can help illustrate who we are and where we come from. This month, the Bode Museum (p. 37) presents the work of Hans Holbein the Younger, one of the greatest portrait painters of the German Renaissance. Holbein is most famous for his portraits of Henry VIII and of Erasmus of Rotterdam, but the focus of the exhibition is his Darmstadt Madonna, depicting the mayor of Basel, his first wife, their daughter, and other figures whose significance is not entirely clear, grouped around the Madonna and baby Jesus. The piece, influenced by Italian Renaissance painting and incorporating Dutch elements, was meant to testify to the mayor's Catholic faith. The exhibition continues until 5 May.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

My Dream Home In the last decades, many people have migrated from rural Romania to Italy, Spain, and the UK to work, often taking jobs in construction, service, or elderly care. From abroad, they secure their families' existence and, if they are lucky, save enough money to build the home they have always dreamed of. Colorful villas now dot the landscapes of the Maramureș and Bukovina districts in northern Romania, and their extravagant details, including gold elements, kitsch interiors, and marble façades, are symbols of their owners' success abroad. Until 24 April, the Museum der Europäischen Kulturen (Arnimallee 25, Dahlem) documents this phenomenon through the exhibition Brave New World, exploring the migrants' lifestyle through their homes, luxury cars, and ostentatious weddings.

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 28 Mar: I. Menzel commemorates the Berlin-based artist’s 200th birthday and his lasting legacy. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 12 Mar: Günter Brus. Features the Austrian artist’s complete work in the Actionism movement. From 19 Mar: Lee Miller – Photographs reveals the full range and oeuvre of Miller’s artistry. To 16 May: Art of Prehistoric Times highlights the

beginnings of human creativity in the form of rock paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by

exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The

Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Communication

machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 22 May: Helmut Newton: Pages from the Glossies / Greg Gorman, Color Works: A selection of Newton and Gorman’s fashion photography from magazine prints. To 5 Jun: A Photo Rarely Comes Alone; Pairs, sets, and series of people, architecture, and experiments. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once housed Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors, while iPads make perfect tour guides through the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. To 16 Mar: No Pain No Game presents an interactive game of the senses. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri Visit the Dahlem 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. museums before they €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger move to their new Str. 16. T: 030.202940. location in Mitte U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3 in 2017.

Museum für Naturkunde

The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Route. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Since Dec 2015, the museum also hosts the first original T-Rex skeleton in Europe. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Museum of Musical Instruments

Museum The Kennedys

Museum of Asian Art

A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical

When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. To 3 Apr: My Pony Macaroni features stories of the Kennedys’ zoo and anecdotes of US presidents with their pets.

Ilva Micu. Nordsiebenbürgen, 2010. © Petru Calinescu, courtesy of smb.museum

10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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BERLINER GALERIEN

NEW

The citywide art guide BERLINER GALERIEN contains the current exhibition program for Berlin‘s art galleries and museums. Easy-to-use street maps provide clear directions to the exhibition venues. The guide is available free of charge at Berlin’s art galleries and museums, visitBerlin tourist information, selected hotels, restaurants, bars. Pick it up!

The art guide BERLINER GALERIEN is ONLINE now! www.berliner-galerien.de All contemporary art events, locations, artists and districts of Berlin in a responsive web design and geolocation service usable for all mobile divices (Android and iPhone OS). BERLINER GALERIEN also provides a weekly newsletter you can subscribe online. Join the art life of Berlin. Be there!

MEMBERS Galerie Albrecht Galerie ART CRU axmann art Bernheimer Contemporary Galerie Berlin Galerie Berlin-Baku EDITION BLOCK Galerie Brockstedt Berlin Brutto Gusto C&Kunterwegs Galerie CAMERA WORK Circle Culture Gallery Galerie cubus-m de freo gallery Galerie Deschler Berlin Galerie Horst Dietrich Galerie Kai Dikhas Galerie Dittmar Galerie Eigenheim entretempo kitchen gallery Galerie Friedmann-Hahn galerie gerken Grundemark Nilsson Gallery Galerie Michael Haas Galerie Hartwich Rügen Galerie Hirschmann Carlos Hulsch Galerie Hunchentoot Galerie IRRGANG Berlin janinebeangallery JARMUSCHEK + PARTNER JORDAN / SEYDOUX KÖPPE Contemporary Hilaneh von Kories GALERIE KORNFELD LEE galerie BERLIN Galerie LEO.COPPI Galerie Gilla Lörcher Anna Jill Lüpertz Gallery Galerie Martin Mertens mianki.Gallery Migrant Birds Robert Morat Galerie Salongalerie >>Die Möwe<< Galerie Mutare galerie georg nothelfer photo edition berlin PODBIELSKI CONTEMPORARY Galerie Poll Michael Reid Gallery Galerie ROOT SCHMALFUSS BERLIN Galerie Thomas Schulte Galerie Michael Schultz Semjon Contemporary Galerie Sievi Galerie Springer Berlin s u b j e c t o b j e c t Galerie TAMMEN & PARTNER TVDÁRT Galerie Westphal-Berlin M. J. Wewerka Galerie WICHTENDAHL GALERIE Woeske Gallery ZELLERMAYER Galerie zone B S U S T A I N I N G M E M B E R Allianz Deutschland AG – Repräsentanz Berlin

PUBLISHER Galleries Association of Berlin (lvbg)

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MANAGING BOARD Werner Tammen Andreas Herrmann Gilla Lörcher Nana Poll Knut W. Maron MANAGING DIRECTOR Anemone Vostell EDITOR ART CALENDAR Dr. Melanie Waldheim kunstkalender@berliner-galerien.de

berliner-galerien.de

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES between photographer and sitter. To 21 Mar: This is Us. Portrait photography of individuals and society. To 21 Mar: The Dialogic City. One of four exhibitions put on by leading Berlin art institutions, revealing how the planning for the city comes to life. To 11 Apr: Ignacio Uriarte – Counting (for) Eight Hours is an acoustic installation of counting, questioning the passing of time of business hours. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 24 Apr: Ulrich Wüst – Cityscapes / Peripheries / Late Summer. To 24 Apr: Peter Puklus. Unsafe to Dance

Few artists are as well known for their confrontation of stereotypes as US photographer Cindy Sherman, who frequently acts as the subject in her own work. In one of her most popular pieces, Centerfolds, Sherman uses angles and lighting evocative of magazine imagery to hauntingly depict subjects in varying degrees of distress. Recently, her symbolic and harsh Society Ladies series challenged the cultural stereotyping of aging women. Admire her work at me Collectors room (p. 41) in Cindy Sherman - Works From the Olbricht Collection, featuring 65 of her impressive photographic pieces. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys. de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 30 Jun: Death in Naples – 125th Anniversary of the Death of Heinrich Schliemann pays homage to the archaeologist and excavator. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 24 Apr: Mystic Travellers; paintings of the mystic sufis, ascetics and holy men in their quest to become one with the Divine. www. smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two

floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www.spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Story of Berlin Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www.story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208. T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Art galleries Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

features the works of the experimental Hungarian photographer. To 24 Apr: Screen Memories is a three-stage series from photographer Verónica Losantos based on memories and the creation of them. To 22 May: Stephen Shore. Retrospective. A

retrospective of Shore’s photography work that highlights what is normally overlooked and considered unspectacular. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org. Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 10 Apr: Jackson Pollock’s “Mural”: Energy Made Visible. Rarely on loan outside of University of Iowa’s Museum of Art, Pollock’s work is on display in Berlin after undergoing 18 months of cleaning in Los Angeles. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Berlin was appointed a UNESCO City of Design in 2005.

Akademie der Künste Pariser Platz The Pariser Platz branch of Berlin’s art academy, housing an important exhibition space and an extensive archive. Open daily 11am–7pm (Free entry Tue 3-7pm). €6/4. www.adk.de. Pariser Platz 4. T: 030.200571000. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 11 Mar: Heidi Specker – In Front of. Photographs 2005/2015, Beckmann and Berlin examines the relationship

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof CThe permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 10 Jul: Julian Rosefeldt. Manifesto is an installation of 13 concurrently-running films and monologues. To

cindy sherman, works from the olbricht collection, courtesy of me collectors room.

Challenging Stereotypes

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cindy sherman, works from the olbricht collection, courtesy of me collectors room.

31 Jul: Neue Galerie: The Black Years. Works from the

Neue Nationalgalerie created between 1933-1945, including works by Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz. To 13 Mar: A Few Free Years features recently donated works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

The Network

People, Cables, Data Streams

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 17 Apr: Leiko Ikemura – ... And Suddenly The Wind Turns. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation

A new exhibition about the networked world For explorers!

Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 22 May: Helmut Newton: Pages from the Glossies / Greg Gorman: A selection of Newton and Gorman’s fashion photography from magazine prints. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

om n.c esig phd gra .de ly : po ege tion chla stra ans Illu g: B / taltun T D s © S Ge

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and DTM_Anz_Netz-118x124_FINAL.indd 1 to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 10 Apr: Cindy Sherman – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Sherman’s works explore cultural tropes and the struggle of the individual against a collective. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2 HiSTOrY TOlD THrOUGH

04.02.16 13:00

Berlin CiTY OF WOMen

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. To 3 Apr: Organism Response. An installation of David Olbrich’s works, exploring the interaction of the mechanical with the organic. To 21 Jun: With New Eyes. Surreal Worlds features the works of major Surrealists and their forerunners. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

20 liFe STOrieS

17.03. – 28.08.2016 epHraiM-palaiS

Commercial Galleries 68 projects, 13 Mar–16 Apr: Los Angeles. Berlin. L.A. Trilogie. Fasanenstr. 68. www.68projects. com; Galerie Albrecht, 12 Mar–23 Apr: Markus Henttonen: Twisted Tales - Road to Hope, photography. Charlottenstr. 78. www. galeriesusannealbrecht.de; Galerie Berlin-Baku, 10 Mar–16 Apr: Azerbaijan meets the Maldives in Berlin. Großgörschenstr. 7. www.galeriebb.de; C&K Galerie, 5 Mar–16 Apr: Roland Stratmann: Here the weather is nice, new works. Joachimstr. 17. www. cundkunterwegs.de; Galerie cubus-m, 12 Mar–23 Apr: Shira Wachsmann: Place in the sun. Pohlstr. 75. www.cubus-m.com.

www.stadtmuseum.de

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DINING | THE GUIDE Silo Coffee

This photo and below, middle: Schuchmanns

A flavor-packed dish at Silo

Bring On The Brunch Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, they say – but perhaps that old adage is in need of an update. On lazy weekends or chilled-out weekdays, brunch is the meal we all want, and in Berlin, long, leisurely brunching has practically been raised to an art form. One notable place to indulge is Café Einstein Stammhaus (Kurfürstenstr. 58, www. cafeeinstein.com), a Neo-Renaissance villa from 1878 that has been carefully renovated in the style of a Viennese coffeehouse. In the elegant ambience lent by soaring ceilings, gilded walls, and wood furnishing, enjoy the classic “Einstein Breakfast,” a tiered étagère piled with cheese, croissants, fruit, spreads, and salads. Its essential companion is a Wiener Melange, a milky Viennese coffee similar to a cappuccino. Rather the opposite end of the elegance spectrum is Bastard (Reichenberger Str. 122, www.bastard-berlin.de), a Kreuzberg hangout that draws a young local crowd with its overloaded breakfast platters and home-

Poached eggs on toast at Silo

baked bread. Creative twists on breakfast standards, like scrambled eggs with goat cheese and honey, are a standout. Another option in the neighborhood is Schuchmanns (Paul-Lincke-Ufer 22, www.schuchmanns. com), a modern yet cozy café housed in a former electricity transformer station.

Brunching options range from the simple and light – fruit salad, eggs on toast – to stacks of pancakes and the Full English. When the weather permits, try to snag a seat in the garden with views of the pretty Landwehr Canal. Though breakfast buffets – which tend to emphasize quantity over quality – have fallen out of favor recently, the generous Russian spread at Pasternak (Knaackstr. 22–24, www. restaurant-pasternak.de) on Sundays remains an exception. The blini pancakes, deviled eggs with caviar, and cured salmon with dill are worth the wait. For something with a more contemporary appeal, head to Silo Coffee in Friedrichshain (Gabriel-Max-Str. 4). Dine on delicious brunch dishes from carnivorous to vegan, like an oven-baked pancake topped with bacon, maple syrup, and a poached egg, or almond milk porridge with poached apples. Its owners being Australian, Silo is also the most solid option in town to get that Down Under coffee treat, the flat white.

courtesy of schuchmanns and silo coffee

What better way to start a day than with a great brunch? Hilda Hoy selected her favorite spots across the city.

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courtesy of schuchmanns and silo coffee

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Michelin-starred restaurants, visit www.wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www. restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

The bavarian

way of life

Maximilians. Friedrichstr. 185 · U-Bhf. Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine. Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 www.wheretraveler.com 43

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DINING Markus Semmler Named “Restaurateur of the Year” in 2000— amongst many other awards and distinctions— Markus Semmler has launched a new solo project. In his restaurant, he serves expertly handled German classics with a fine-tuned sense for quality. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.kochkunst-ereignisse.de. Sächsische Str. 7 T: 030.89068290. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Restaurant Richard The nondescript street belies the splendor of Richard’s gourmet creations and interior, which includes carved wooden ceilings and stainedglass. The 19th-century architecture gets a modern boost from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174. T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Reinstoff

€€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a stylish interior alongside classic and updated French cuisine. Inside Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for a posh business lunch or romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters tempts as much as the sumptuous mains and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Schneeweiss

Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweissberlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Rutz

Transit

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the

high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, and beef tartare.

Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Kreuzberg Spindler & Klatt Asian-European Fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Mitte Balthazar 2 Spreeufer International. The new branch of the Charlottenburg

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DINING establishment, this central restaurant is bound to become a popular destination thanks to creative dishes like tomato and ginger soup, Thai chicken salad, or mushroom risotto with cardamon. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.balthazar-spreeufer.de. Balthazar Spreeufer 2. T: 030.30882156. U Klosterstraße. F3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hummus & Friends Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm

pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2

Maximilians

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destinatio. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkostkaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L & D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185-190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Dóttir

The Grand

Paris-Moskau

Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins

of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40. T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

German/French. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two world wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German cuisines. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau. de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3 Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten

RESTAURANT PARIS-MOSKAU ALT-MOABIT 141 • 10557 BERLIN Tel.: 030 394 20 81 restaurant@paris-moskau.de www.paris-moskau.de

TRADITION SINCE 1984

FINE DINING Find us on WHERE Map page 56 64, D/3

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THE GUIDE | entertainment

The (New) Circus Is In Town!

main image: photo by Tomáš Treštík: inset: photo by jakub jelen.

Settling into her seat on a balcony at the Chamäleon Theater, Annabelle Mallia gets ready for a night of jawdropping physical feats. Right in the heart of Mitte lies the Chamäleon Theater, a venue boasting two special features. The first is its location in the historic Hackesche Höfe, a 1906 building constructed in the art nouveau style with a sprawling courtyard complex of interesting shops to discover. The second is its historic ballroom, host to an amazing entertainment program teeming with acclaimed circus performers and other artists from around the globe. On 17 March is the world premiere of ROOTS family stories by Cirk La Putyka, a contemporary circus troupe founded by the Novák brothers, the eighth generation of a famous puppeteer dynasty from the Czech Republic. Often described as visionaries of the so-called "new circus" genre, La Putyka are known for combining various styles to present visually spectacular shows. More than 50 troupe members, including actors, musicians, acrobats, puppeteers, dancers,

athletes, technicians, and production professionals will be on stage and behind the scenes to tell stories deeply rooted in their family histories, inspiring the audience to reflect upon their heritage and the importance of tradition.

“Each of us comes from a different corner of the Earth," said artistic director Rostislav Novák. "We have different experiences and stories, but we are all connected through circus, through virtuosity, adrenaline, poetry, and laughter, through tears, passion, enthusiasm, and euphoria.” And this, he believes, summarizes the ROOTS family stories show. To round off the show experience, Chamäleon also offers bistro-style dining prepared by partner restaurant Al Dente (www.aldente-berlin.de), who has been serving delicious Italian cuisine in Mitte for over 20 years. Hungry customers should come at least 30 minutes before the show starts to place their orders, though there is opportunity to drink and snack throughout the evening. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030 4000590. www.chamaeleonberlin.com. Six shows a week until 28 August 2016. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 3 Mar: I Capuleti e i Montecchi (Bellini). 4 Mar: Der Liebestrank (Donizetti). 12, 18 Mar: Der Liebe der Danae (Strauss). 13, 17 Mar: Manon Lescaut (Puccini). 12 Mar: Die ägyptische Helena (Strauss). 12 Mar: Cavalleria Rusticana (Mascagni). 24 Mar: Tannhäuser (Wagner). 25, 28 Mar: Rigoletto (Verdi). 28 Mar: Tosca (Puccini). www.deutscheoperberlin. de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 6 Mar: Barenboim (piano) and Lisa Batiashvili (violin) play Debussy and others. 10, 12 Mar: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 18, 23, 27 Mar: Orfeo ed Euridice (Gluck). 20, 25, 28 Mar: Parsifal (Wagner). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Classical Concerts Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 6, 18, 27 Mar: Xerxes (Händel). 3, 12 Mar: Jewgeni Onegin (Tchaikovski). 4 Mar: Eine Frau, die weiss, was sie will! (Straus). 12 Mar: Das Gestpenst von Canterville (Lange). 19 Mar: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 24 Mar: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 7 Mar: Steven Kovacevic piano recital. 10 Mar: Stanley Dodds conducts various orchestras to commemorate the tragedy of Fukushima. 19 Mar: Benny Goodman Revival Band. 22 Mar: Cellist Thomas Beckmann plays Vivaldi, Tchaikovsky and Chaplin. 26 Mar: The European Vivaldi Players (cond. Stefan Bevier) perform Vivaldi's Concerti and Sinfonie. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Staatsballett

Konzerthaus

Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 2, 10 Mar: Duato / Kylian / Naharin at Deutsche Oper. 3, 4, 5, 6 Mar: Giselle at Staatsoper im Schiller Theater. 11, 28, 31 Mar: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness. Music by Bach, chor. Nacho Duato. 26 Mar: Duato / Kylian at Staatsoper im Schiller Theater. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 5 Mar: The Landesjugendensemble Neue Musik Berlin performs Mendoza, Streich, and Lachenmann. 12–13 Mar: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Willem de Vriend) performs Mozart and Mendelssohn. 17–19 Mar: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Kitajenko) performs Dvorak and Sibelius. 24 Mar:

Postcard From Cuba Triple Englishness

From salsa and rumba tunes to the good old cha-cha-cha, the rhythmic, seductive music of The Bar at Buena Vista will make you feel like you've stepped into a classic Havana nightclub. Catch the beat on 7 March at Friedrichstadt-Palast (p. 51).

at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Discover ORIGINAL MONDAY at KulturBrauerei, feat. select undubbed films with German subtitles! Info and tickets at cinestar.de

photo by christian zenger

Now: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!

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photo by christian zenger

A DVER TORIAL

Exitus: Are You Brave Enough? Welcome to the Berlin of 1922. The streets are dirty, gloomy, and filled with sinister creatures. Who can you trust? Rumors about a serial killer —a man named Carl Großmann who slaughters prostitutes and turns them into sausages — run rampant around town. More than 100 women appear to have fallen victim. The real-life serial killer eluded detection until his very last victim, the unfortunate Marie Nitsche… Will you be an accomplice and end up in prison? Or will you be able to escape? Find out from March 17 with Exitus, the brand-new experience of dark humor and suspense at Berlin Dungeon, featuring the city’s highest indoor free-fall tower! Only one question remains: Are you brave enough for the darkest drop into the unknown? Berlin Dungeon. Spandauer Str. 2. www.thedungeons.com Bach's St Matthew Passion. 25 Mar: Good Friday concert: Bach's St John Passion. 28 Mar: Easter Matinée 31 Mar: Gloria! www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 3–5 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Jansons, cello Truls Mørk) perform Berlioz and Shostakovich. 17 Mar: The Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester Berlin (cond. Marek Janowski) performs Prokofiev, Schubert, and more. 22 Mar: Yo Yo Ma in concert. 24 Mar: The Staatskapelle (cond. Barenboim) and Yo-Yo Ma (cello). 26 Mar: Daniel Barenboim and Martha Argerich; The Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin (cond. Trevor Pinnock) perform Schubert, Haydn, Beethoven. 31 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Tristan und Isolde, (concert version). www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dance & Experimental Spaces Dock 11 Studios & Eden***** Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder www.wheretraveler.com 49

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ENTERTAINMENT

It’s better if you don’t talk.* A Tribute From Down Under Beware of Pity by Stefan Zweig Direction: Simon McBurney On March 6, 5 pm Ophelia’s Room With texts by Alice Birch Direction: Katie Mitchell On March 9, 8 pm *Demons by Lars Norén Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On March 16, 8 pm Richard III by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On March 21, 7.30 pm Miss Julie after August Strindberg Direction: Katie Mitchell and Leo Warner On March 23, 8 pm A Piece of Plastic by Marius von Mayenburg Direction: Marius von Mayenburg On March 29, 7.30 pm

Tickets: 030 890023 www.schaubuehne.de

Forget what you know about cover acts. In its almost three decades of existence, The Australian Pink Floyd Show has elevated tribute bands to an art form, selling more than four million tickets and touring in 35 countries. If you need further convincing, just ask original Floyd guitarist/vocalist David Gilmour, who was so impressed after attending a performance that he booked the band for his fiftieth birthday party. Expect Floyd classics from Dark Side of the Moon and The Wall. Mercedes-Benz Arena, 31 Mar, www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Sophiensaele

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 12 Mar: Music Parade, the Marching Band Festival. 14 Mar: Macklemore & Ryan Lewis. 23 Mar: The Scorpions in concert. 31 Mar: The Australian Pink Floyd Show. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. To 13 Mar: Holiday On Ice. 16–17 Mar: Joe Bonamassa in concert. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 10 Mar: The Sisters of Mercy. 25 Mar: James Bay. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Admiralspalast

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars in Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 1 Mar: All You Need

TAPFS, DAVE FOWLER - © SARAH ASKAROFF

Theatre with English surtitles

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Beyond the Horizon The 1800-seat Theater Potsdamer Platz designed by Renzo Piano presents Beyond the Horizon, a musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www. stage-entertainment.de. Theater am Potsdamer Platz Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Blue Man Show The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. From Mar 17: ROOTS family stories, a new circus performance by Cirk La Putyka. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and shows at this modern theater. All month: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. www. palast.berlin. Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions, many of which with English surtitles. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 4–6 Mar: Sharon Brauner & Band. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

24.Feb 22.Mai bis

01806 39 53 00 BODE-MUSEUM TICKETS:

W W W. F A L S C H E - G A E R T N E R I N - I M - B O D E . D E

*(Festnetz 20 ct/Anruf, Mobil max. 60 ct/Anruf, jeweils inkl. MwSt.)

TAPFS, Dave Fowler - © Sarah Askaroff

Is Love!. 8–13 Mar: Hair, the musical. 10 Mar: Mi Carne Flamenca. 15–20 Mar: Ballet Revolución. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

The Irish Harp

Erin Go Bragh In Berlin Although St. Patrick’s Day celebrations in Berlin aren’t quite as exuberant as those in Dublin or Boston, the city still holds its own when it comes to Celtic pride. Irish pubs lie in most every Kiez, but here are some of the standouts, notable as much for their pints as their Irish airs and spirit. Ask a Berliner to recommend an Irish pub and you’ll most likely be directed to Charlottenburg’s The Irish Harp (Giesebrechtstr. 15, www.harp-pub.de), renowned for both its opulent interior and its properly poured pints of the most famous of Irish nectars, Guinness. Located just off the Ku’damm, the establishment, reopened in 2007 after restoration, bills itself as one of Berlin’s oldest Irish pubs and offers live music acts on the weekends and sports and trivia during the week. Over in Mitte, the Oscar Wilde Pub (Friedrichstr. 112A, www.oscar-wilde-irish-pub. de) has garnered its own legion of greenhearted fans, particularly those in search of a traditional Irish breakfast or a rousing night of

trivia. Housed in a 1912 building that led a former life as an East Berlin dance hall, the new incarnation opened in 1991, and also claims a sister establishment, The Irish Times (Leipziger Str. 56), a few U-Bahn stops away, in case you’re up for a pub crawl. For some, “there’s none can compare with the Cliffs of Dooneen” (Husemannstr. 6, www.cliffs-of-dooneen.de), or so goes the famous Irish ballad. Located on Kollwitzplatz, one of the liveliest corners of Prenzlauer Berg, the neighborhood favorite has amassed a following due to its Celtic hospitality, sports enthusiasm, and selection of whiskeys. Although a bit out of the way, The Lir (Flensburger Str. 7, www.thelir.de) merits a trek to the historic yet oft-overlooked Hansaviertel neighborhood, where you can warm yourself by the fireplace in the winter or take in the famous Berlin air on the patio in sunnier months. Regulars swear by the fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, and the “good craic,” all served in the amber-hued atmosphere of a turn-ofthe-last-century building.

the harp irish pub: courtesy of the harp irish pub; guinness: © istock photos.

Jenna Rose Robbins scoured the city for the perfect pubs to down a pint in honor of Ireland’s patron saint.

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THE HARP IRISH PUB: COURTESY OF THE HARP IRISH PUB; GUINNESS: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.

BEER Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www. dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater

with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Magnet Club Rock, indie, and punk evenings, and dance floors both indoors and outdoors. Open Tue–Sun. www.magnet-club.de. Falckensteinstr. 48. T: 030.44008140. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl

WINE & COCKTAILS Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and One of the most luxurious clubs in town homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, attracts the poshest crowds, mostly and lots of beer of course! Daily from due to a huge bar serving potent 6pm (from noon Sat). cocktails and a large dance floor www.pratergarten.de. populated by professional dancers. Berlin’s wildest club and Kastanienallee 7-9. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearlnightlife scene is T: 030.4485688. berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. concentrated along U Eberswalder Straße. F1 T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer

A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Schleusenkrug

Green Door Cocktail Bar

Revaler Straße, near Warschauer Straße.

A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CLUBS Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www. ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.weekend-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties

Garten. G4

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. T: 030.26367875. U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Salon zur Wilden Renate In an old residential building on the cooler side of Friedrichshain, Wilde Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners. Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www.renate.cc. Alt-Stralau 70. T: 030.25041426. S Treptower Park, S Ostkreuz. H4

Suicide Circus Friday is techno night, while Saturdays lean more toward house and tech-house at Suicide Circus, a trendy and sweaty club that has hosted some of the best DJs in Europe. Outdoor dance floor in summer. Wed–Sun. www.suicide-berlin.com. Revaler Str. 99. S Warschauer Straße. H4

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floorto-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www. water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Try one of the cocktail specialties at Green Door (this page), one of Schöneberg's historic bars.

One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www. hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Le Croco Bleu Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242. T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café Eat, drink, and be merry. It’s all possible at this 24hour spot, which combines a surprisingly elegant interior with an unpretentious atmosphere. Latenight kitchen and an affordable – not to mention exhaustive – cocktail menu. 24h daily except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4 www.wheretraveler.com 53

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF)

ASK THE CONCIERGE

Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Sam Ndiaye, concierge at Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does your perfect day in Berlin look like?

A perfect day for me starts with breakfast at Cafè Wintergarten in Literaturhaus, on Fasanenstraße. After window shopping along the Ku'damm, I would continue onto Mitte and have a stroll along Unter den Linden. I would have lunch at the restaurant Aigner am Gendarmenmarkt, and then I would go see the Blue Man Group at the Bluemax Theater. In the evening, a visit to one of the city’s trendiest new restuarants is in order, so I would book a table at Einsunternull on Hannoversche Straße, followed by a cocktail with a view of the city at Solar (Stresemannstr. 76). When you have visitors, where do you take them? I want to give them a glimpse of the various facets of the city, so I take them on a hop-on, hop-off bus tour and, in good weather, on a boat trip along the Landwehrkanal or on Wannsee lake.

What are your Berlin secrets?

My secret tip is to go to Ludwigkirchplatz in Charlottenburg. The area still bears the charm of the old West Berlin and is located off the classic tourist trail but still central. Describe Berlin in three words.

Historical, tolerant, multicultural. Where’s a place that expresses the essence of Berlin? Park am Gleisdreieck reflects, to me, the present spirit of Berlin. It brings together all different walks of life and is a modern meeting place for everyone. It also reminds me of High Line Park in Manhattan. What distinguishes Berlin from other cities? Berlin is hip yet inexpensive. And unlike other cities, it is can recount a recent and moving history, which has caused it to change many times. A romantic place in Berlin? A classic: Café am Neuen See in the Tiergarten park. Images: The Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstedamm; Restaurant Le Faubourg.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €30. www.bvg.de

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101. Taxi Berlin: T: 030.202020.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF SOFITEL BERLIN KURFÜRSTENDAMM. LOUNGE: © MAUD DELAFLOTTE; LE FAUBOURG: © PAUL SULLIVAN; PORTRAIT OF SAM NDIAYE: ©JAREK RACZEK

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

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TRANSPORT MAP

BVG licence number: BVG-0024.15.

all photos courtesy of sofitel berlin kurfürstendamm. lounge: © maud delaflotte; Le Faubourg: © paul sullivan; Portrait of sam ndiaye: ©Jarek Raczek

ESSENTIALS

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10/02/2016 10:28

Where now | Gal Ben Moshe

Gal Ben Moshe CHEF

The owner and talented head chef of Glass, Gal Ben Moshe pours his passion into creating refined and inventive dishes at his restaurant near the Ku’damm. Born and raised in Israel, Ben Moshe received his culinary training in Tel Aviv, London, and Chicago before ultimately settling in Berlin in 2012, opening Glass the following year. Give his creations a try at Uhlandstr. 195. www.glassberlin.de

How did you end up running a restaurant in Berlin? I had been looking to open a conceptual restaurant and was exploring a few options, and when I got to Berlin I just fell in love with the city. It has all the benefits of a big city but with a slower pace. Four days after relocating here, I found the location on Uhlandstraße and haven’t rested for a minute since. How would you describe the culinary style at Glass? What inspires you? The core of the idea is that food is an art medium, using food to tell a story. For example, we have the “Candy Box” dessert, which aims to give customers the feeling of going on a childhood picnic. “Forest in GLASS,” a smoked mushroom terrarium, tells the story of my impressions from walking my dog in the forest. I allow myself artistic freedom, working with techniques and ingredients from all over the world, like tomatillos from Mexico, hamachi from Japan, wheat from Palestine, and hearts of palm from Hawaii.

What are some seasonal ingredients you like to use at this time of year? I just love it when spring starts. We have a new dessert celebrating different textures, with three different cultivars of strawberries and long pepper. Spring is usually when I allow myself much more soul-searching into my Middle East roots. Of course, the menu will continue to be very international, with a Mexican-inspired hamachi sashimi and a Korean-American take on foie gras. How would you describe the food scene in Berlin? In constant development. I think the food scene is no different than all the construction sites in the city’s streets. You have a lot of very interesting things happening at all levels. Glass is located in Charlottenburg. What do you think makes this area special or interesting? I think Charlottenburg is a very honest residential area. Since reunification, it has lost

some of its glamour to trends, but for its quality of life, wide streets, classic Altbau apartments, and neighborhood parks, it will shine again. I currently live in Lichtenrade, but the truth is I’m more connected to Charlottenburg. I love the Asian restaurants on Kantstraße. When you can get away from your restaurant, where in the city do you like to eat? Every Saturday I have veal ribs and pork belly at Big Stuff Smoked BBQ in Markthalle Neun. I think that of all the food happenings in the city, their BBQ is probably the most justified and delicious. It is very straightforward and honest. If you had a day off to spend in the city, where would you go? I think I would go to Prenzlauer Berg. I don’t get to go there often, and lately it has been booming with new restaurants and eateries I’ve been dying to try, like JoLee (Winsstr. 65) and Fräulein Kimchi (Kollwitzstr. 46).

Clockwise from top left: Building façades in Prenzlauer Berg; Gal Ben Moshe; Strawberries; Food creations by Gal Ben Moshe; Markthalle Neun.

Prenzlauer berg facades and strawberries: © istock photos; gal ben moshe and his food creations: courtesy of gal ben moshe; markthalle neun flowers: courtesy of markthalle neun.

My Perfect Day

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9 – 13 March 2016 · itb50.com

YEARS OF EXCELLENCE

Ofﬁcial Partner Country ITB Berlin 2016

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03/02/2016 08:51 21.01.2016 07:46:33