Where Magazin September 2015

Berlin

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

BERLIN ART WEEK Citywide Highlights of This Year's Event PLUS THE ULTIMATE DAY OF PAMPERING BEST MUSEUM GIFT SHOPS

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SUN DAY SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS SUNDAY, 6.9.

1pm - 7pm

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Berlin

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CONTENTS

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

18

5 Editor’s Note Highlights of this month's events, from pyrotechnics to open-air Shakespeare and U2.

SHOPPING

2XX0

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6 Hot Dates

Browse the high-class shops of Friedrichstraße in Mitte.

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SIGHTSEEING

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XXComputer Game Museum The is just one place where you can free your inner nerd.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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Botticelli and his postXX Renaissance admirers are showing at the Gemäldegalerie.

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DINING

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Saucy ribs, pulled pork, and XX all-round finger-lickin'-good American-style barbecue.

66 My Perfect Day Thoas Lindner Take some shopping tips from one of the capital's most original fashion designers today.

Rock out at Perry Farrell's first XX European edition of the musical juggernaut Lollapalooza.

Also Inside

NIGHTLIFE

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61 Ask The Concierge

Hit the town with a cold brewski in one hand, ping pong paddle in the other.

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Citywide Highlights of This Year's Event

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Admire the rich creative offerings of the city during Berlin Art Week.

16 Magnificent Mementos

BUS TXLL

10 The Capital's Art Scene Shines

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BERLIN ART WEEK

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

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Marc Schiffer at the Ritz-Carlton never stops exploring the city.

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ENTERTAINMENT

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U2: PHOTO BY OLAF HEINE; SOCKS: COURTESY OF STANCE; ALBATROSS: COURTESY OF ME COLLECTORS ROOM; THOAS LINDNER: COURTESY OF THOAS LINDNER; COLLAGE: JOSEF KAISER, GROSSHÜGELHAUS, BILDMONTAGE: DIETER URBACH, 1971, © DIETER URBACH/BERLINISCHE GALERIE.

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Back To School

It’s that time of the year again: Summer vacation is over, the air is cooling down, and our daily routines are dragging us back into the grind of everyday life. To try and soften our landing on the bumpy path toward winter, this month we chose to focus on activities that will ease you back into the swing of the post-summer season.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

After you’ve treated your eyes to some beauty, it's a good idea to treat the rest of your body to some dead-serious pampering. Over the past few months, Annabelle Mallia has been charged with the tough task of testing the city’s most relaxing spots. The result is a head-to-toe pampering guide (p. 14) for full body and soul rejuvenation. And for those preparing to hit the books, Jenna Rose Robbins has scoped out intellectual havens for those with offbeat tastes, from kitschy collections to science sanctuaries (p. 34).

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Whether it’s school or work you're heading back to, it helps to keep the dreaminess of the sunny season as alive as possible. One great way to do this is by feeding the creative spirit. Taking in contemporary art exhibitions can stimulate creativity for the months to come, and Berlin Art Week, taking place all over town 15–20 September, provides a perfect opportunity to explore the newest developments in German and international art – and maybe even acquire some for your home. For the event, Hilda Hoy has created an itinerary of the best places to see, experience, and buy art in Berlin (p. 10). If you're more the classical type, however, don't miss the Botticelli exhibition starting this month at the Gemäldegalerie, exploring the Florentine master and his lasting influence (p. 40).

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until November, 30th 2015.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

BURN AFTER READING SPY MUSEUM BERLIN OPENING 19-09-2015 AT POTSDAMER PLATZ top secret interaktiv international

spymuseumberlin.com

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

HOT DATE Berlin explodes with a month full of red-hot concerts, performances, and a fireworks showdown.

UNTIL SUNDAY

20

CABARET

There's no better place to see the world-famous musical than the city where the story takes place. Watch the last days of the German Weimar Republic come to life through such timeless tunes as Money and Willkommen and the direction of Vincent Paterson, who has choreographed for Madonna and Michael Jackson. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

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SUNDAY

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ISTAF BERLIN

If you're counting down the days until the next Summer Olympics, head over to Olympic Stadium on 6 September for your track and field fix. Reputed to be the largest athletics conference in the world, the Internationales Stadionfest is a full day of competitions featuring athletes from 40 nations. Cross your fingers you get to witness another world record being broken, which occurs often at ISTAF. www.istaf.de

FROM WEDNESDAY

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INTERNATIONAL LITERATURE FESTIVAL

It's a bibliophile's paradise as Berlin salutes the literary world, with more than 200 events representing most every country and genre. If you can't make the events, which are conducted in the authors’ native languages (with accompanying German translations), you can still pick up a copy of the annual Berlin Anthology, a curated selection of poems from participants in the Literatures Of The World portion of the program. www.literaturfestival.com

TES FROM TUESDAY

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A MIDSUMMER NIGHT'S DREAM

If any of the Bard's plays were made for performing outdoors, it's this fairy-filled favorite.

Catch the tail end of the Shakespeare Company Berlin's summer season as Puck and company take to the Freilichtbühne (open-air stage) at Natur-Park Schöneberger Südgelände. Other Shakespeare works are also performed through the end of the month; note that all of the troupe's productions are in German. www.shakespeare-company.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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Our recommendations for every day of the month!

FROM FRIDAY

4-5 PYRONALE

You've never seen a sky show quite like this. The world championship of fireworks features six countries – Spain, England, Germany, Slovakia, Finland, and Mexico – duking it out in pyrotechnic splendor to a classical-music routine. Admire the spectacle at the Maifeld at Olympic Stadium. www.pyronale.de

FROM THURSDAY

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U2 AT MERCEDESBENZ ARENA

Few non-German bands have such a connection with Berlin as does U2, who has both recorded in and written songs, including Zoo Station, about the city. With that in mind, expect the Irish rockers' capital concerts to feel more like a homecoming than just another stop on their tour, which contains all the eye-popping set design and flamboyant performances (we're looking at you, Bono) that have made them one of the top-grossing bands of all time. VIP packages available. Sep. 24-25, 28-29. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

FROM FRIDAY

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IFA: CONSUMER ELECTRONICS UNLIMITED

Consumers and corporations from around the globe converge on Berlin each year for IFA in the hopes of witnessing the debut of a groundbreaking gadget, such as when the Philips audio cassette recorder was introduced back in 1963. The global trade show, one of the largest in the world for consumer electronics and home appliances, takes place at Messe Berlin, where 1200 exhibitors from 32 countries present the latest in design and technology.

Microsoft VP Nick Parker delivers one of this year's keynote addresses and presents an array of the brand's new software and devices. www.ifa-berlin.com

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SEPTEMBER Admire the annual dahlia extravaganza at the beautiful Britzer Botanical Garden.

Musikfest Berlin gets underway with 18 days of classical music, from Mahler to Schubert.

American rockers Linkin Park hit the stage at the Alte Försterei stadium tonight.

Be dazzled by the colorful explosions at the Pyronale world fireworks championships.

Weekends are for brunching. Try the lavish spread at Anna Blume in Prenzlauer Berg.

Today is one of the rare Sundays per year when stores can open, so shop 'til you drop!

Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park.

Hop a train to Potsdam to admire the regal gardens and changing leaves of Sanssouci.

Take a trip to Dahlem's Botanical Garden to admire the greenhouses of tropical plants.

Blue, bald, and legendary: See the Blue Man Group show at the Bluemax Theater.

Kick off the weekend at Becketts Kopf, Prenzlauer Berg's best cocktail bar.

The first-ever Lollapalooza Berlin begins! Join the two-day music fest at Tempelhof Park.

Peek inside the city's storied monuments with today's Heritage Open Day activities.

Admire the geometric paintings of Piet Mondrian on show at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Picasso fans won't want to miss the collection of masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen.

Starting today, discover the work of artist Cindy Sherman at me Collectors Room.

Beloved singer-songwriter Sufjan Stevens sings his heart out at Admiralspalast tonight.

Last chance! The Impressionism-Expressionism exhibit at Alte Nationalgalerie ends Sunday.

The racy Berlin Burlesque Festival is on all weekend at the Wintergarten theater.

Indie band Beirut is back with a fifth album for tonight's show at Columbiahalle.

Hear Berlin's Staatskapelle orchestra play Beethoven at the Philharmonie tonight.

Visit Chamäleon Varieté to see the bawdy acrobatics of the Wunderkammer show.

Go Baroque with a Rezidenz Orchester concert of works by Bach at Charlottenburg Palace.

Admire Renaissance masterpieces by Botticelli in a new Gemäldegalerie show.

Legendary Irish rockers U2 continue their fourshow stop at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegasstyle show at Friedrichstadt-Palast.

Cheer on the 40,000+ runners competing in today's 42nd Berlin Marathon.

Berlin Food Week starts today – loosen your belt for citywide epicurean events.

Cruise the Spree River! Hop on a boat tour leaving from the Schiff bauerdamm pier.

Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English.

PREVIOUS PAGES: ISTAF: CAMERA4/ISTAF; LITERATURE FESTIVAL: HARTWIG KLAPPERT; SHAKESPEARE: © THORSTEN JORDAN; CABARET ENSEMBLE: © HEINRICH VON SCHIMMER; CABARET THE EMCEE: © HEINRICH VON SCHIMMER. THIS PAGE: PYRONALE: © PYROWORLD; U2: PHOTO BY OLAF HEINE; IFA: COURTESY OF IFA.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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Soft wool jacket 99,90 € / Cashmere crew neck sweater 69,90 € / Wool blended skirt 39,90 € The Fall / Winter collection launches on September 3rd at the Uniqlo Flagship Store Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C in Berlin. www.uniqlo.com/de Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 11.08.2015, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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Where Now | Berlin Art Week

The Capital's Art Scene Shines With the annual Berlin Art Week this month, Hilda Hoy explores the rich creative offerings of Berlin and charts the best places to admire some art.

A

rtists love Berlin, and Berlin loves art. With a relatively low cost of living, a permissive, laissez-faire attitude, and healthy public funding of the arts, the capital has long been a destination for artists and art-lovers of all stripes. Creativity – and an appreciation for it – has thrived here for many generations, leaving behind a robust legacy of museums, galleries, and private collections that easily ranks among the best

in the Western world.

Every fall, Berlin Art Week (15-20 September) capitalizes on this reputation with not one but two art fairs that draw artists, gallerists, collectors, and art enthusiasts to discover what the local scene has to offer. Both celebrations are open to the public and provide an overview of current art trends as well as a behind-thescenes peek of the art market. The first of these fairs, abc – art berlin contemporary

(www.artberlincontemporary.com), takes place 17–20 September at STATION Berlin, where high-powered galleries from around the world unveil the creative masterpieces of their best and brightest artists. Whether you’re an ardent collector looking for your next must-have painting or merely a curious fan, abc offers a diverse concentration of contemporary art under one roof.

The smaller Positions Berlin (www. positions.de) is poised to make its second

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foray at Berlin Art Week. Founder Kristian Jarmuschek, himself a local gallerist, introduced the upstart fair last year in an attempt to break abc’s monopoly, citing his belief that diversity and breadth can only benefit the Berlin art scene. Similarly to abc, Positions brings together local and international galleries to present their most cutting-edge offerings, which come together at the spacious Arena (p. 56) venue in Kreuzberg.

In addition to the two art fairs, a number of special Berlin Art Week exhibitions, performances, and artist talks are also

held in galleries, museums, and project spaces across the city. Not to be missed is Extended Reality, a solo show by daring conceptual artist Alicja Kwade, opening on 18 September at Haus am Waldsee (p. 44).

Represented by the very respected Galerie Johann König, the Berlin-based artist is renowned for her sculptural installations that question the nature of reality and the systems of order we rely upon.

Also on Art Week’s program is STADT/ BILD (Image of a City), an expansive exhibition taking place across four different venues. Don’t miss the perspectives

on urbanism captured at Deutsche Bank KunstHalle’s (p. 44) STADT/ BILD. Xenopolis, which presents the city as a living organism independent of its residents. The KW Institute for Contemporary Art (p. 44), meanwhile, has titled its contribution to the four-part exhibition Welcome to the Jungle. From indoor swimming pools in Japan to bowling alleys in Berlin, the show’s works explore imaginary, subconscious places that exist beyond the tangible city we can control.

Both shows open 15 September.

The recipient of the renowned Käthe

2014 Berlin Art Week: © Kulturprojekte Berlin, photo by Antje Schrîder; collage: Josef Kaiser, GroSShügelhaus, Bildmontage: Dieter Urbach, 1971, © Dieter Urbach/Berlinische Galerie; 2014 event: © Kulturprojekte Berlin, photo by Oana Popa; Hands: Mwangi Hutter, Field of Joy, 2015; Instrument Sculpture: Alicja Kwade, Theoretisches Gebilde I, 2015, courtesy Johann König, Photo by Roman März; Building: Engelbert Kremser, Europa-Center, Fotomontage, 1969, © Engelbert Kremser/Berlinische Galerie, Repro: Markus Hawlik.

Clockwise from left: A scene from the 2014 Berlin Art Week, a photo collage by Dieter Urbach, an event from last year's Berlin Art Week, Mwangi Hutter's Field of Joy (2015) at Deutsche Bank KunstHalle's Xenopolis exhibit, Alicja Kwade's Theoretisches Gebilde I (Theoretical Structure I), Engelbert Kremser's unrealized design for the Europa-Center.

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Where Now | Berlin Art Week

ART ATTRaCTIONS

Even outside Berlin Art Week’s fairs and exhibitions, the city is always teeming with museums, with art from throughout the ages in particular. Love the Flemish Old Masters? Crazy for Picasso? Want to see some German heavyweights like Caspar David Friedrich? Here are the museums you’ll want to add to your itinerary.

The Old Classics

At Museum Island's Alte Nationalgalerie (p. 44), the permanent collection includes paintings by Friedrich and Adolph Menzel – considered the two most prominent German artists of the 19th century – as well as Romantic and Impressionist masterpieces by Monet and Manet.

To go really far back on the art timeline, visit the Bode Museum (p. 44), which boasts an impressive collection of Byzantine artwork that spans the 3rd through 15th centuries.

Amongst the Christian artifacts and mosaic icons, you’ll find evocative pieces by famed German sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider.

20th Century And Beyond

Top to bottom: Loris Cecchini's Monologue Patterns (2009) features at Deutsche Bank KunstHalle's Xenopolis exhibit; American photographer Cindy Sherman's conceptual portraiture will be on display at the me Collectors Room.

Kollwitz Prize for 2015 is French artist Bernard Frize, whose win is being fêted with a new show at the exhibition space at the Academy of the Arts (p. 42). The awarding of the prize on 10 September doubles as the launch of Frize’s show, which stars his sensually splashy yet introverted paintings. Also opening during Berlin Art Week is an exhibition of the work of Cindy Sherman at me Collectors Room (p. 45) on 16 September,

presenting 60 photographs from every phase of the renowned American artist’s decades-long career. Sherman, playing both subject and artist, by turns depicts herself as magazine centerfold, film starlet, or unhappy housewife, uncannily mimicking and deconstructing cultural tropes and stereotypes. Like all the Berlin Art Week openings, this show is ongoing – and well worth a visit even after the week has drawn to a close.

From Cubism to Dada, the previous century brought about many monumental changes in the way art was created and seen.

Museum Berggruen (p. 45) has more than 120 works by one of the era's greatest artists, Picasso, plus pieces by Cézanne, Paul Klee, Henri Matisse, and Georges Braque. Directly across the road (and accessible with the same ticket) is Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg (p. 45), a Surrealist treasure trove featuring Salvador Dalí, Max Ernst, and René Magritte.

Beyond Europe Admire calligraphy scrolls, jade carvings, and sacred terracotta sculptures at the Museum of Asian Art (p. 42), which covers a wide swath of the Asian continent, from Korea to India. And not to be overlooked is Museum Island's venerable Pergamon Museum (p.

42), home to the Museum of Islamic Art, one of the most important collections of such art outside the Islamic world.

Monologue Patterns: © VG Bild-Kunst, 2015; Women: Cindy Sherman, Untitled 475, 2008, © Courtesy of the Artist and Metro Pictures New York.

To admire grand, historic paintings, visit the Gemäldegalerie (p. 44), which covers the breadth of European painting from the 13th to 18th centuries. Expect to see works by such Italian greats as Titian, Caravaggio, and Botticelli, plus Dutch and Flemish Old Masters like Rembrandt, Pieter Bruegel the Elder, and Jan van Eyck.

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Where Now | SPAS & SALONS

PAMPER ME

While Berlin embraces its reputation as a party capital, Annabelle Mallia sets out to uncover a more relaxing – yet just as decadent – side to the city.

Immerse Yourself Get into the right frame of mind for pampering and step into a flotation tank.

Tranxx (Akazienstr. 27, www.tranxx.de), in the beautiful Schöneberg neighborhood of Akazienkiez, has the biggest in Berlin, where you can relax solo or with a loved one. The highly concentrated salt water replicates the buoyancy experienced in the Dead Sea and is heated to exactly 35°C (95°F), which blurs the tactile boundary between air, water, and skin. Combined with all-encompassing darkness and silence, the result is complete sensory deprivation, which aids in the release of stress and tension. Massages are available afterwards, or retreat to a "chill" cave for further relaxation.

Body Treatments Germany is renowned for its sauna culture, and Berlin is awash in venues to choose from. A personal favorite of mine is the architecturally impressive Liquidrom (Möckernstr. 10, www.liquidrom-berlin. de). The venue's centerpiece is a dimly lit concrete dome with heated salt-water pool and moon-like window above. Choose from a steam bath with humidity reaching 100 percent, a Himalaya salt sauna with an illuminated wall, the Kelo Panorama, and a Finnish sauna, where low humidity allows you to endure temperatures up to 90°C (194°F). Hourly Aufguss sessions (see

opposite page) and alternating infusions, from honey to salt and fruity tea, are best capped off with a dip in the ice-cold plunge pool. Per German custom, swimwear is not allowed in saunas.

Once you're loosened up, take the relaxation a step further with a luxurious massage. Although these are also offered at Liquidrom, I recommend you head to the self-described oasis of tranquility in the heart of Berlin, Vabali (Seydlitzstr. 6, www.vabali.de). Oozing authentic Balinese charm, the wellness resort boasts numerous pools and saunas, dining, and an impressive treatment list. Classic massages, from deep tissue to aromatherapy, and more exotic holistic techniques, such as Hawaiian lomilomi and algae body packs, guarantee an antidote for the knottiest of shoulders.

Hair & Skin Looking good is just as important as feeling good. At NIVEA Haus (Unter den Linden 28, www.nivea.de), one of the German powerhouse's two flagship stores, you can refuel with a spontaneous coffee and facial or other soothing body treatment. Cabins are also available for dual pamper sessions, as is the full range of NIVEA products.

Top off your radiant visage with a new coiffure. With eight salons citywide, Udo Walz (Kurfürstendamm 29, www.udo-walz. com) has become a hairdressing institution.

By age 18, founder Walz was already popular amongst Germany’s fashionistas for his updos, then went on to open his flagship Ku'damm store in 1986. Since then, he has styled the locks of superstars such as Demi Moore and Claudia Schiffer – and even Angela Merkel. Whether you book

yourself for a special hairstyle or a make-up session, rest assured that you too will be treated like a star. Befitting of its stature, Udo Walz also offers hotel room service.

Manicures & Pedicures The Shan Rahimkhan brand, renowned for its roster of celebrity clients, has just opened Shan’s True Beauty (Kurfürstendamm 195/196, www. shanrahimkhan.de) on the ground floor of their Ku’damm salon, offering makeup and nail services amid a boudoir interior of velvet furnishings. The Gendarmenmarkt location also features a bistro that serves sweets and Persian-inspired Berlin cuisine.

The first-class beauty team at The Alessandro Spa, housed within luxury department store KaDeWe (p. 27), spoils its clients with manicures and pedicures, hand massages, and nail styling according to the latest trends. A complete range of innovative skin care products, including Hands!Up, rounds off the service.

The Top-to-Bottom Package If organizing your own beauty and wellness appointments sounds anything but relaxing, book the "Pimp Me Up" tour offered by Berlinagenten (p. 39). The luxury tour agents will curate a program tailored to your personal needs and desires, facilitate access to Berlin’s most luxurious spas and wellness locations, and transform you inside and out. The basic package consists of a massage at one of Berlin's hippest hotels, a private nutrition consultation, or a personal presentation workshop. Transport, a private sightseeing tour between beauty stops, and beverages are all included in the package.

Pool: Courtesy of Vabali; massage: Courtesy of Tranxx; Shan's: Courtesy of Shan's True Beauty; Interior: Courtesy of Liquidrom; treatment: Courtesy of NIVEA Haus.

Sometimes, a vacation requires a little down time from all the sightseeing, gourmet dining, and club-hopping. Take the edge off with a day devoted to revitalization, both inside and out.

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Clockwise from top: Vabali's indoor pool, massage at Tranxx, Shan's True Beauty, the interior of Liquidrom, a treatment at NIVEA Haus.

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The Aufguss This all-German sauna ritual is the holy grail for locals. The roughly 10-minute process (which translates roughly as "outpouring") involves having the Saunameister (sauna master) pour water and scented oils onto hot stones to raise the room's temperature, then whipping the steaming air in your direction with a towel. Etiquette requires participants not to leave during the Aufguss, as opening or closing the door allows heat to escape. Check your sauna for scheduled times.

12/08/2015 09:36

WHERE NOW | MUSEUM SHOPS

Magnificent

Mementos

S

ometimes an exhibit arouses the desire to take home more than just memories, which is one reason so many visitors enjoy browsing the gift shop. Another reason to love museum boutiques: Most are open on Sunday, giving shopaholics a chance to indulge in their favorite pastime on the day when the rest of the city's stores are dark.

Because of Berlin's multitude of museums (more than 170), there's quite an array of shops to choose from. We've narrowed down the list to our favorites: The large bookshop inside MartinGropius-Bau (p. 42) has ceiling-high shelves carrying a wide range of books, art manuals, and photography volumes both related and unrelated to the changing exhibitions.

There's also a well-stocked kids' room with toys and literature, and a unique selection of German stationery.

The Cedon gift shop inside the Jewish Museum (p. 41) stocks an extensive range of Judaica, including literature about Jews and Berlin, klezmer CDs, menorahs, jewelry, and even humorous objects, such as disposable “100% kosher” napkins.

Lovers of photography will find their habitat in the shop of C/O Berlin (p. 44), which has a wide variety of photography books and reproductions, as well as original prints by famous photographers, which will set you back a little more than that repro postcard you were eyeing.

Perhaps the quirkiest gift shop of all Berlin's museums is the one inside me Collectors Room (p. 45). Entirely inspired by the museum's Wunderkammer, the shop

features offbeat décor, such as a stuffed giraffe, and sells mounted insects, skeleton erasers, exotic seashells, botanical prints, and a cornucopia of other curiosities.

For a dip in Berlin's Cold War past, enter the gift shop of the DDR Museum (p. 41), where you can buy reproductions of postcards from the divided city, maps of East and West Berlin, and the popular Trabant toy car with pullback mechanism, which even adults love taking home as a souvenir.

For more design and fabulous posters from the 1920s, head to the Bauhaus Archiv (p. 41). The exhibitions are usually aimed at an audience of scholars and students, but the shop contains design objects and images – from the glorious but short German Bauhaus period – that will look good in any home.

If it's kids you're shopping for, hit the Deutsches Technikmuseum (Museum of Technology, p. 38), where you'll be able to choose between dinosaur-shaped paper airplanes, model trains, and many books, while the bigger gift shop inside the Museum für Naturkunde (Museum of Natural History, p. 38) has all kinds of scientific toys and books for the little ones, with a special emphasis on dinosaurs, as well as bird-sound CDs for fans of our feathered friends. Or head down to Potsdam to the Biosphäre tropical biosphere (p. 38). After a walk in the jungle and a mango smoothie at the (indoor) lakeside café, you might feel the need to shop for tropical seeds and pods to decorate your walls and fill your potpourri bowls.

A taxidermied albatross, Hebrew and Yiddish magnets, the popular pull-back toy Trabant, the gift shop at Biosphäre Potsdam.

ALBATROSS: COURTESY OF ME COLLECTORS ROOM; MAGNETS: COURTESY OF JÜDISCHES MUSEUM; TRABANT: © THINKSTOCK; GIFT SHOP: BIOSPHÄRE POTSDAM.

Solveig Steinhardt spent her Sunday shopping for souvenir objets d'art in the city’s best museum gift shops.

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Discover La Maison Nordique, the caviar bar at Galeries Lafayette Berlin.

Enjoy exquisite dishes prepared with smoked fish, assorted tarama specialties and caviar.

Don’t miss the Caviar Imperial de Sologne, an exclusive caviar, produced in France only for La Maison Nordique and celebrated by top chefs around the world for its delicate flavor and perfect balance in taste.

LA MAISON NORDIQUE

CAVIAR BAR AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE GOURMET Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm Galeries Lafayette Berlin Friedrichstraße 76-78 Phone 030-20948254 www.galerieslafayette.de/maisonnordique

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WHERE NOW | FOLIAGE FASHION

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A WALK IN THE WOODS 1. Socks by Stance, www.stance.com. 2. Hat by Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 3. Turtleneck by Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 4. Boots by Barbour, Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 5. Bag by Marimekko, Alte Schönhauser Str. 42.

6 & 8. Jacket and shirt by UNIQLO, Tauentzienstr. 7b/c 7. Backpack by QWSTION, www.qwstion.com.

TREE SILHOUETTE © THINKSTOCK

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SHOPPING

High-Class High Street

A

lthough Kurfürstendamm usually gets all the hype for being the epicenter of Berlin couture, Mitte's Friedrichstraße is a fashion destination in its own right. Head south from S-Bahn Friedrichstraße and you'll find such famously labeled stores as Gucci (p. 29) and Maurice Lacroix (p. 32), not to mention several exclusive department stores.

With its cosmopolitan architecture and upmarket brands, Departmentstore Quartier 206 (p. 27) is ideal for the shopper with refined tastes, whether it be for clothing, beauty products, art, or even books. In addition to well-known designers, such as footwear mavens Manolo Blahnik and Rupert Sanderson, the department store features specialty brands that are

lesser known but just as stylish, such as Le das KulturKaufhaus ("the department Prince Jardinier, which offers unique store of culture", p 27). An immense array of souvenirs for garden lovers. both non-fiction and classic and At Galeries Lafayette (p. 27), discover a contemporary literature – including a large Parisian shopping experience that selection of English titles – can occupy transcends fashion to bibliophiles for hours include French "Friedrichstraße is a fashion (good news: They close gastronomy, with at midnight). See their destination in its own right." website for upcoming epicurean specialties from the food counter musical performances and tea from the celebrated Mariage Frères, and book presentations, many in English. founded in 1854. The department store, When your arms can't hold any more notable for its centerpiece inverted glass bags, Friedrichstraße's many cafés and cone, is renowned for its fine clothing and restaurants are a draw unto themselves. accessories, as well as an assortment of Experience fine German specialties at perfumes and beauty items.

Maximilians (p. 51), upscale vegetarian If it's that inspirational je ne sais quoi you cuisine at Cookies Cream (p. 51), or further seek, locate the red storefont of Dussmann French inspiration at Borchardt (p. 51).

Courtesy of Departmentstore Quartier 206

Caroline Evans browses the très chic shops of Friedrichstraße.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

40 Years Of Modern Flair

Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. Back in 1978, co-founder and former Swedish model Margaretha Ley realized her instinct for color and a devotion to details, which she translated into bold combinations and opulent embroideries and prints – elements that still endow today's ESCADA lines. The autumn/winter 2015 collection features a new signature bag, the ML40, honoring Ley and commemorating the label's upcoming 40th anniversary.

Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030 88923815.

Friedrichstr. 176-179. T: 030 2386404. www.escada.com

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 6 September, 4 October, 25 October, 6 December, 20 December.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ).

Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

COURTESY OF ESCADA

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Neues Kranzler Eck – Kurfürstendamm 22, Mon–Sat 9:30am–8pm.

Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather-accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luggage, as well as gift items such as leather-encased cigarette lighters and backgammon boxes.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

Coach Classic and instantly recognizable, the luxury brand specializes in leather accessories for both men and women, and is particularly famous for its bags, often inspired by vintage themes. www.coach.com. Galeries Lafayette.

U Französische Straße. E3

Falke This legwear shop caters to both men and women with an array of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that keeps your legs toasty warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com.

Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565.

U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin.

T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Fiona Bennett Berlin’s exclusive, extravagant milliner offers handmade women’s hats for all occasions. Her mission is to invent a perfect frame to suit your individuality. www.fionabennett.de. Potsdamer Str. 81-83. T: 030.28096330. U Kurfürstenstraße. E3

LIEBESKIND Berlin High-quality leather accessories and shoes, from casual to classic, designed in Berlin. de.liebeskind-berlin.com. Neue Schönhauser Str. 8. T: 030.24781600. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Alexa Center. T: 030.27878090. S+U Alexanderplatz; F3; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20620210.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Michal Negrin The Israeli designer has been creating a unique lifestyle look for 20 years, with an eye on fashion, jewelry, and home décor. Inspired by vintage themes with romantic and Victorian elements, Negrin's creations are made with Swarovski crystals and luxe fabrics. www.michalnegrin.com.

T: 030.20143466. Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, including handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories, for the world’s most seasoned travelers. www.mcmworldwide.com.

Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

MYKITA Hand-assembled in a Mitte manufactory, these designer glasses combine precision craftsmanship with new technologies. What started out in an old nursery (Kita) has now received world-wide acclaim. www.mykita.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6.

T: 030.67308715. S+U Alexanderplatz, U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Aveda Lifestyle Salon Aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. A cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de.

Kurfürstendamm 26a. T: 030.88708790.

U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Harry Lehmann The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents kept in glass jars and siphoned into smaller bottles upon request. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106.

T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4 Listings continue on page 27 www.wheretraveler.com 21

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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MICHAEL KORS

BIKINI BERLIN

German luxury purveyor MCM has launched its new Bionic Series, a collection of unisex backpacks and bags made of innovative lightweight material inspired by the interiorlight paneling on spaceships. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means the Bionic line is as waterresistant and durable as it is luxurious.

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

Germany's first concept mall brings select labels, unique concept and pop-up stores, and a plethora of dining opportunities to the heart of West Berlin. Do not miss the extraordinary rooftop terrace with a view of the monkeys and flamingos in the zoo.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Budapester Str. 38-50. www.bikiniberlin.de

Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2015

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-10%* -14,50 %** UP TO

PROMOTION VALID TILL 31/12/15

BERLIN | Kurf端rstendamm 195/196 - Bleibtreustrasse 22/23 Tel. +49 30 889.217.30 FOR YOU, AN EXCLUSIVE PROMOTION AT OUR STORE IN BERLIN TERMS & CONDITIONS -10% STORE DISCOUNT * EXCLUSIVELY FOR FOREIGN INDIVIDUAL CUSTOMERS UPON PRESENTATION OF A VALID FOREIGN PASSPORT. Please show this page to the cashier with your passport. The 10% discount is applicable in Boggi store in Berlin. The tax refund is applicable on your discounted purchases. This 10% discount cannot be accumulated with other discounts, nor claimed once payment has been made.

UP TO

-14,50% TAX REFUND

** For the residents outside the European Union. The total amount of your purchases must be over Euro 25,00 and the tax refund form must be completed the same day of your purchases.

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BERLIN I Kurfürstendamm 178 - Tel. +49 30 8852545 I Friedrichstraße 184 - Tel. +49 30 20074945

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SHOPPING

Treasures From The Past

Antique lovers, mark your calendars: On 5 September, head to Charlottenburg for the Suarezstraße Antique Festival, a one-day annual event that gives you the opportunity to nab collectors’ items and distinctive pieces at some 130 market stalls. Well-preserved paintings, glassware, and porcelain will have you gasping at their creation dates. Sniff through the historical tomes in the bookstalls or treat yourself to some vintage clothing or jewelry — rumor has it that the prices are lower than at other flea markets, so you can shop away without the guilt. Reach the stalls via U-Bahn (Sophie-Charlotte-Platz or Wilmersdorfer Straße) or S-Bahn (Charlottenburg or Messe Nord). www.suarezstrasse.com

Books & Music

Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books.

With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Shakespeare and Sons After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English translations. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36.

T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße.

F1; Warshauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Children

© THINKSTOCK

LEGO Store Assembled Lego models surround the entirety of this flagship store. Hit the interactive play area, take a Lego-themed class, or select individual Lego bricks from a diverse range of colors and shapes at the pick-a-brick wall. www.lego.com. Tauentzienstr. 20. T: 030.21016222.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Steiff Galerie in Berlin Founded in 1880 by Margarete Steiff, this

stuffed-animal company has developed into an international brand of quality cuddles. The bear Steiff created for U.S. President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt in 1902 is the origin of the term "teddy bear." www.steiff.de. Kurfürstendamm 38–39. T: 030.88625006. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Concept Stores Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71.

T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3

Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2.

T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Department Stores Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Malls & Arcades Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr.

20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the

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SHOPPING mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50.

T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin

in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden. de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Airfield

Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, to 8pm Fri and Sat. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Exclusive, extraordinary, personal. This Austrian brand sells what they call “fashion made with passion,” blurring the boundaries between sporty and classy outfits and harmoniously combining styles to create wearable garments for everyone, leaving lots of room for individual and personal interpretations. www.airfield.at. Mall of Berlin.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Europa Center

Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin

Basler

BCBGMAXAZRIA

270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

The global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with an eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. www.bcbg.com. Schlüterstr. 39. T: 030.88624770.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

ben|weide

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and

Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com.

Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Bimba y Lola Founded by two sisters, the Spanish label specializes in fashion and accessories – all designed by a team in their 20s – that combine modern flair with Spanish playfulness. www.bimbaylola.com. Weinmeisterstr. 9b.

T: 030.28096770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20644265. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Burberry Burberry's distinctive tartan pattern and trench coat, designed by founder Thomas Burberry, are what brought this British luxury fashion house fame. Founded in 1856, Burberry now distributes makeup and fragrances in addition to fashion for men, children, and women. www.burberry.com.

Kurfürstendamm 183. T: 030.8854811.

U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Claudia Skoda She used to party with Bowie and Iggy Pop and transformed knitwear into high fashion. Skoda is one of the most famous Berlin designers and this beautiful new boutique houses her latest figure-

ADVERTORIAL

Colorful Contraptions

Sometimes, you just need a dash of color and whimsy in your life – like a puppy sponge-holder, or brightly patterned serving tray. For that, there’s French design emporium Pylones, which is marking its 30th birthday with a new store on Schloßstraße, its third in Berlin. Browse the wide selection of stationery, kitchenware, toys, gift ideas, and such practical necessities as key rings and phone cases, each brighter and more playful than the next. www.pylones.com. Schlossstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Kurfürstendamm 225.

T: 030 92362488. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 80928130. Daily 10am-9pm.

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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

hugging ensembles. www.claudiaskoda.com.

Mulackstr. 8. See website for more locations.

T: 030.40041884. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Darklands

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA at Alexanderplatz OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr.

46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr.

153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16.

T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

Gucci What began as a leathergoods company maintains a design aesthetic rooted in the homage to its early equestrian-loving clientele, who went wild for the horse bit and stirrup motifs still found on its goods. Today, Gucci represents sophisticated international fashion adored by international jetsetters. www.gucci.com. Galeries Lafayette.

T: 030.2017020. U Französische Straße. E3

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

HUGO BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25.

T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49.

T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Kaviar Gauche Signature pieces fuse dynamic patchwork cuts and femininity, first realized in their classic Lamella bag.

In the last few years, motivated by the success of their cocktail dresses, fashion designers Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Röhler also specialize in bridal wear. www.kaviargauche.com. Linienstr.

44. T: 030.28873562. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2 Besides their classic polo shirt bedecked with that cute crocodile logo, this classic French sportswear label also creates classy, sport-chic fashion items and footwear for men, women and kids.

Kurfürstendamm 213. T: 030.88676945.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 158–164.

T: 030.20058886. U Französische Straße. E3; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20614423. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mohrenstraße. E3

Liu Jo Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Lacoste

®

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SHOPPING beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin.

T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.

Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. See website for more locations. www.maxmara.com. Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce

& Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pennyblack The popular Italian brand dresses a woman for every hour of the day. The "black" label is for sophistication, the "grey" label for a more casual style, and the "pink" for romantic, special moments. www.pennyblack.com. Mall of Berlin.

T: 030.20644346. U Mohrenstraße. E4

Sportalm Kitzbühel Sport meets fashion in a conglomeration of elegance and coolness. This Austrian brand specializes in clothes that enhance the sporty character of feminine elegance. www.sportalm.at.

Mall of Berlin. T: 030.30329261. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Food & Gourmet Fassbender & Rausch This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate.

As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300kg (661lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de.

Charlottenstr. 60. T: 20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marheineke Markthalle One of the key market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight today.

Meats, cheese, deli items, baked goods, fruit and vegetables, juices, and flowers – everything is of exquisite quality and much of it produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city's market halls and samples from vendors. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15.

T: 030 61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Markthalle Neun Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle Neun has undergone a revival in recent years,

Friedrichshain, the very definition of alternative Berlin, is simply brimming with independent secondhand and vintage stores. Around the corner from thrift-shop behemoth Humana on Frankfurter Tor is the cute and cozy Anziehend (Niederbarnim Str. 16), which specializes in nearly new apparel for women. On Boxhagener Platz is the quirky Rocking Chair (Gabriel-Max-Str. 13), full of vintage items and accessories from the 1940s-60s, including an extensive selection of Hawaiian shirts and letterman jackets. For a bit of ultra-selective but affordable pre-owned fashion, Sometimes Coloured (Grünberger Str. 90) is a stop not to be missed. And if you're on the hunt for items from the more masculine side of the fashion spectrum, Trash Schick (Wühlischstr. 31) is your no-nonsense destination.

courtesy of Sometimes Coloured

Secondhand Wonders And Vintage Love

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LUXURY

Brands

FOR THE

AIGNER

LABEL LOVERS

www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030 88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030 88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

DESIGNER BRANDS AT 30-70% LESS.*

BOGGI MILANO

ALL YEAR ROUND.

www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030 88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030 20613890. U Französische Str. E3

BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com.

Kurfürstendamm 59-60.

T: 030 70550770. U Adenauerplatz. B4

ENJOY AN EXTRA 10% OFF** DesignerOutletBerlin.com

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www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030 2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030 8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Client Client Outlet Outlet Ad Ad Type Type Publication Publication Size Size

www.zegna.com. KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr.

21-24. T: 030 21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030 88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

-- McAG McAG -- BERLIN BERLIN -- PRESS PRESS -- WHERE WHERE MAG MAG -- 118X124mm 118X124mm

Type Type Area Area Bleed Bleed Date Date File File Name Name

-- n/a n/a -- 3mm 3mm -- 30–01–2015 27.1.14

Initials Scale Effective DPI

-RS - RS - 100 - >300 >300

-- GL0846_0002_SS15-Where GL0846_0002_SS15-Wheremagazine_berlin_118x124mm_AW2 magazine_berlin_118x124mm_AW2

ETRO www.etro.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206. Friedrichstr. 71.

T: 030 20946120. U Französische Straße E3

LONGCHAMP www.longchamp.com. Kurfürstendamm 42. T: 030 88712810. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030 28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030 55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030 8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175-176. T: 030 88910700.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

®

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SHOPPING now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am-6pm. See website for more events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42–43.

T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Home Décor

1960-70s East German fashion, furniture, and accessories – with lots of orange. www.veborange. de. Oderberger Str. 29. T: 030.97886886.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Jewelry & Watches

The Friedrichstraße boutique features a large selection of the renowned watch brand. www.mauricelacroix.com. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

Wempe

Bucherer

MEISSEN

Maurice Lacroix

With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first Bucherer store provides first-class service and porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin a unique shopping experience. stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 176artwork, and figurines, all identified 179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische by the signature crossed swords.

Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. www.meissen.com. Unter den T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4 Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028.

6 September is one of U Französische Straße. the few Sundays this Juwelier LorenZ E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. year that stores will be A family business since 1874, T: 030.88625085. open citywide for one of Berlin's most prestigious U Kurfürstendamm. B3 shopping. watchmakers and jewelers showcases Rolex, Cartier, Raymond Weil, and Tudor.

Pylones www.juwelier-lorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59.

The French brand produces fun and colorful T: 030.8512020. U Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz. household products, jewelry, accessories and Off Map office trinkets – many with zoomorphic themes – that add a whimsical spark to our daily lives.

Juweliere Leicht www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225. See This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and website for more locations. T: 030.92362488. also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari, Utopia, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Noor, and Meissen, as well as proprietary designs manufactured with gold and precious stones.

VEB Orange www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77.

Take a trip back in time. This little store has T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 selected the most beautiful highlights from

One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches. Also visit their Rolex boutique on the Ku’damm. www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215.

See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82.

T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

Shoes Budapester Schuhe It is said that no wardrobe should be without a pair of Budapester shoes. The high-quality shoes with their unique features, such as the low heel, wingtips, and Lyra perforations, are an absolute classic. Many other high-end brands available. www.budapester.eu. Kurfürstendamm 43.

T: 030.88624206. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe carries pumps, a variety of boots, evening shoes, and handbags. The Berlin stores also offer the latest trends in men’s shoes. www.buffalo-shop.de.

See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31.

S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2

Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE

shoes UK

US

clothes Euro

UK

women 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

Xs s m l

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

ben | weide Mulackstr. 1.

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MALL OF BERLIN ENTRANCE LEIPZIGER PLATZ, GROUND FLOOR WEINMEISTERSTRASSE 9B, 10178 BERLIN

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05/08/2015 08:40

Nerd Paradise Jenna Rose Robbins heeded the call of her inner geek to seek out Berlin's havens for her fellow social misfits.

S

ay what you want about Berlin, but it's one of the few major world cities that manages to walk that fine line of being both cosmopolitan and unpretentious. Here, amid the trendy clubs and skyrocketing real estate prices, you're free to be yourself, which for some of us means embracing our inner nerd.

In addition to the multitude of oldschool stores catering to music and comic-book lovers, the German capital boasts veritable meccas of geekdom, such as the Computer Game Museum (Computerspielemuseum, p. 38). The Friedrichshain institution not only showcases original game consoles – including the famous Nimrod from the dinosaur days of 1951 – but even allows

visitors to play most of them. Test your barrel-jumping skills on Donkey Kong, protect the planet from Space Invaders, or take a slightly-too-long gander at the life-size Lara Croft, if that's your thing.

Taking a more forward-looking approach is the Game Science Center (Charlottenstr. 1, www.gamesciencecenter. de), which bills itself as "the future museum." The brainchild of four game developers offers hands-on projects and technologies that may soon be commonplace, such as eye-contolled games and full-fledged virtual reality.

Meanwhile, in a neighborhood not so far, far away, Madame Tussauds (p.38) has opened a special Star Wars exhibit, where members of the Rebel Alliance and

Galactic Empire put aside their differences long enough to admire the waxwork likenesses of their respective heroes.

And of course, there are the niche-nerd attractions, such as the Wunderkammer Olbricht at me Collectors Room (p.45) for connoisseurs of esoterica, the aptly named Museum of Things (p.42) for, well, stuff, and the graphic-design paradise of the Museum of Letters (Holzmarktstr. 66, www.buchstabenmuseum.de), a typography sanctuary that "rescues threatened letters from public spaces."

Cap off your day with a trip to Gelateria Mos Eisley (Herrfurthpl. 6, www.moseisley-gelateria.de), named for the spaceport in the original Star Wars film. Just remember: Han shot first.

Star Wars: Courtesy of Madame Tussauds; Computer Game Museum: © Computerspielemuseum; Game Science Center: © Game Science Center.

SIGHTSEEING

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Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/4. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of

the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals due to its curvy shape, the building that is now home to the House of the Cultures of the World was originally built as a congress hall in 1956 but quickly became a symbol of Western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm, and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Daily 10am–7pm.

Prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of

before-and-after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue MUST SEE Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantinestyle synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under-6s free. www.cjudaicum.de.

Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300.

S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the

Fleet Feet © Thinkstock

Star Wars: Courtesy of Madame Tussauds; Computer Game Museum: © Computerspielemuseum; Game Science Center: © Game Science Center.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Three days before the German unification in 1990, 25,000 runners ran through the Brandenburg Gate, a lot of them with tears in their eyes. It was also the day when the Berlin Marathon, with its relatively flat course, established itself as one of the fastest and most famous footraces in the world. The course winds its way through the city, taking in some of Berlin’s most prominent landmarks. Last year saw double the participants of the 1990 race, hailing from 130 different nations. To cheer on the runners in the 42nd BMW Berlin Marathon, taking place on 27 September, simply join the masses of spectators along the race route. www.bmw-berlin-marathon.com

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SIGHTSEEING café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–7:30pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Philharmonie MUST SEE The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola

Walking the 7km (4.35mi) Berlin Wall Trail (Mauerweg) between Nordbahnhof and Potsdamer Platz is a rewarding experience to understand how the former barrier divided the city and its inhabitants. Starting right outside of Nordbahnhof, follow the double line of cobblestones to the Berlin Wall Documentation Center (Berliner Mauer Gedenkstätte, this page), which has numerous exhibitions detailing the Wall’s history and impact.

Farther south by the Humboldthafen waterside is a watchtower that now serves as a memorial to the first victim of the GDR, Günter Litfin. Follow the trail down to the bank next to the Reichstag building to visit the White Crosses (Weisse Kreuze) memorial, set up in 1971 by West Berlin ten years after the building of the wall. And at the Friedrichstraße station, the Palace of Tears (Tränenpalast, p. 37) is a former border crossing, so named because of the tearful farewells between families and friends from East and West.

Additional route and historical information is available on www.berlin.de.

Siegessäule (Victory Column)

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Gleis 17 Between 1941 and 1945, 50,000 Berlin Jews were packed into the freight and cattle cars of 186 trains leaving from Track 17 of Grunewald Station, destined for the concentration camps and ghettos of Auschwitz, Theresienstadt, Riga, and Lodz. The track is no longer in use, but a plaque there commemorates the tragic events. The small square in front of the S-Bahn station also features sculptures and installations dedicated to the deportees. S Grunewald. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Shoah is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution.

Accessible 24 hours a day. Free.

The Berlin Zoo is the www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. largest in the world, with Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. more than 1500 U Brandenburger Tor. E3 species.

The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. The terrace offers great vistas. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961.U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–7pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

KPM Berlin Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as KPM Berlin, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour,

© Thinkstock

Walk The Wall

MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free.

Register on website. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2

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SIGHTSEEING enjoy the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com.

Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately run exhibit explores the crafty inventions used by East Germans to escape East Germany, including Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot-air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts.

Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45.

T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built in 1936 by prisoners as a model concentration camp, Sachsenhausen saw mainly political prisoners in its first years, while Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” arrived a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host exhibitions about extermination methods, the daily life of prisoners, and the medical experiments performed on them. Daily 8:30am–6pm (midOct–mid-Mar until 4:30pm); Mon museums and exhibitions closed. Free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Stasi Prison

© Courtesy of Gruen-Berlin.de

MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi

(secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm. €5/2.50. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. Daily 10am–8pm.

Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts

the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat-Sun until 6pm).

Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20/16 (discount when booking online).

Under-14s must be accompanied by an adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6pm. Zoo or aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de,

Mother Nature’s Trainyard Over the course of the last half century, nature has slowly been reclaiming the area formerly occupied by Rangierbahnhof Tempelhof.

Foliage and trees have sprung up and engulfed the abandoned switchyard, tracks and all, lending it a fairytale feel, particularly during spring bloom. Today, the wilds of Schöneberger Südgelände are a favorite destination for photographers, hikers, and aficionados of forgotten spaces, who enjoy exploring the overgrown remnants of trains, a water tower, a railway turntable, and even a 4000sq.m (43,000sq.ft) locomotive hall, either alone or on guided tours. www.gruen-berlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 37

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SIGHTSEEING www.zoo-berlin.de. Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Deutsches Technikmuseum

Botanischer Garten

technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon– Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. The legendary wax museum also has a section explaining how the figures are made.

Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 9pm). €21/16, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Domäne Dahlem City Farm

Museum für Naturkunde

MUST SEE At the museum for all things

This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100.

S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE The hands-on children’s museum offers a climbing structure, a maze, a soap-making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. www.machmitmuseum.de.

Senefelderstr. 5/6.

T: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1

Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games, from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games. Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www. computerspielemuseum.de.

Karl-Marx-Allee 93a.

T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647.

U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E4

Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor the natural history museum also features house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. agricultural tools and a farmers’ market on www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de.

Saturday mornings. Wed–Mon 10am– Invalidenstr. 43.

6pm in summer. Farm: Free except T: 030.20938591. U during special events. Museum: Naturkundemuseum. E2 €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem. de. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. T: Sea Life & AquaDom Berlin is larger in area 030.6663000.

Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, than Paris and has U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map crawling spider crabs, and quirky more bridges than seahorses are just some of the Venice.

LEGOLAND Discovery Centre 5000 creatures inhabiting this small Everything is built with the famous but interesting aquarium. Discover the plastic bricks at this indoor Lego wonderland. ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the There are videos explaining how Lego is made, eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall a Lego factory, a 4D cinema with tactile effects, cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed a Duplo village for the very little ones, and from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 a medieval world with knights and dragons. (discounts when booking online). Under-3s Daily 10am–6pm (last admission 5pm) except free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, 24 Dec. €16 (from €8 if you book online, underand Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.

3s free). Combined Berlin Dungeon, Madame visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.

Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 legolanddiscoverycentre.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 01806.66690110. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tempelhof Airport Park

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other

ADVERTORIAL

MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Tiergarten Park Created as hunting grounds for the Electors of Brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond with boat rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. The park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the Schloss Bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany.

S Tiergarten, S Bellevue. C3, D3

Potsdam Biosphäre Potsdam

Let’s seg Berlin ways!

Want to be cultural while exploring Berlin in a unique way? CooLTourings offers guided Segway tours of Berlin's top 20 sightseeing highlights. Follow your guide and set off on your very own self-balancing electric Segway vehicle for a 1.5- or 3-hour Berlin City Center Tour along the Berlin Wall Trail and Spree River.

Book a group or private VIP tour online. www.Seg-Berlin-Ways.de. Meeting point: Hotel Riverside & Café, Friedrichstr. 106. T: 030 26321381.

This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios

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SIGHTSEEING

Open-Air Museum

As an 800-year-old piece of agricultural paradise in the suburbs of Berlin, Domäne Dahlem (previous page) is a functioning farm dedicated to offering a peek into living off the land and exploring the link between pastures and the shopping bag. Admire the restored 1500s manor house and charming old stables, then stroll the fields to visit the animals and impressively large vegetable garden. A clunky old tractor and old-fashioned carousel will delight kids, while grownups can purchase fresh produce harvested straight from the farm. On Saturday mornings, the courtyard is filled with the market stands of organic farmers from around Berlin and Brandenburg. Join the festivities on 19 and 20 September when the museum celebrates the wholesome potato: Harvest your own, then dig into a steaming spud fresh from the fire. produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular German TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm April to October, closed Mon in May and Mon and Tue in Sep. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Großbeerenstr. 200, Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750.

S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted “a place to be without cares.” The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. The park and its palaces have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1990. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200.

S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

River Trips © K. Wendlandt

Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusiv-yachtcharter.de.

T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region, a Wannsee cruise, and individual charter options. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

Tours & Guided Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs.

Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4.

T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required.

From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10.

www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com.

Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.

Original Berlin Walks Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin, and Christmas markets (in December).

No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point shortly before the tour begins. www.berlinwalks.de. Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10.

T: 030.3019194.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. Drivers must know how to drive a manual transmission. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Botticelli’s Renaissance Solveig Steinhardt examines the evolution of the Botticelli legacy, with some thought-provoking works of art inspired by the great master.

F

lorentine painter Sandro Botticelli was not merely one of the greatest artists of the Renaissance. He also inadvertently kicked off a post-Renaissance trend that has been going on for almost 200 years.

From the pre-Raphaelite movement to pop art and the fashion world, his ethereal long-haired blondes clad in soft floral dresses represent a standard of beauty that never seems to fade. Throughout the last two centuries, the master’s works have been reproduced, imitated, distorted, and modernized, with the new works sometimes earning a notoriety of their own.

many tributes to the great painting, and Beginning 24 September, The Botticelli Andy Warhol’s technicolor print. Perhaps the Renaissance at the Gemäldegalerie (p. 44) most striking reimagining is Japanese artist explores the history of the artist’s relatively recent rise to universal fame and what led to Tomoko Nagao’s wide-eyed manga Venus, who finds her seashell his becoming an art icon “Twenty of Botticelli’s transformed into a of such epic proportions.

More than 100 pieces of pieces are being displayed PlayStation floating on a sea of Baci chocolates European art chart the for the very first time.“ and Barilla pasta. many original Botticellis Lest we leave out the actual forefather of that have been reinterpreted as new works, all this modern and contemporary beauty, most notably The Birth Of Venus, which has been reincarnated in Dutch photographer the Gemäldegalerie is also exhibiting many Rineke Dijkstra’s portrait series of of the master’s own pieces, 20 of which are adolescents at the beach, the fashion world’s being displayed for the very first time.

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People, Cables, Data Streams

Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures and vases, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (until 8pm Thu), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242.

U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, models, objects, and projects illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 21 Sep: Dialogues: Photographs by Hélène Binet explores the black-and-white world of the renowned architecture photographer. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm.

Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de.

Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

A new exhibition about the networked world Opens 09.09.2015

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Everyday objects, closets filled with GDR fashion, and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate and explain Communist habits, such as collectively pottytraining babies or going on nudist holidays.

Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1 (in front of the Berliner Dom). T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

om n.c esig phd gra .de ly : po ege tion chla stra ans Illu g: B / taltun T D s © S Ge

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Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

A world of exhibitions

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 20 Sep: Layers of Time takes a look at the changes and influence of the Berlin Zeughaus throughout history. To 25 Oct: 1945–Defeat. Liberation. New Beginning exposes the efforts of various European nations made to rebuilding and recovering from WWII. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies. The past 150 years of queer history in Germany. To 3 Jan: Unification explores the challenges and experiences faced by the newly-unified Germany after the fall of the Wall. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Gay Museum One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies focuses on two centuries of queer history in Germany.

Mon, Wed–Fri, Sun 2–6pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73.

T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel is shaped as a deconstructed Star of David. Walk through millennia of German Jewish history and discover the alternating glories and persecutions of this community. To 13 Sep: Obedience: The story of Abraham, Isaac, and Ismael. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr.

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Opposite page-Clockwise from top: Manga: Tomoko Nagao: Botticelli - The Birth of Venus with Baci, Esselunga, Barilla, PSP, and EasyJet, 2012, Courtesy of Tomoko Nagao; Nativity: Sandro Botticelli: Mystische Geburt, 1501, Courtesy of bpi Berlin, Photo by Jochen Remmer; Mill: Edward Burne-Jones, The Mill, 1870, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Mother and Child: Sandro Botticelli, Tondo Raczynski, 1477, Courtesy of Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemäldegalerie/Jörg P. Anders; Sketch: Edgar Degas, Venus (Nach Botticelli), 1859, Courtesy of Peter Schälchli, Zürich.

The Network

®

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war, which she experienced directly after losing both her son and grandson in battle. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times,

the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 20 Sep: Gone to the Dogs! This year’s summer exhibition focuses on the relationship between human and canine with a varied selection of paintings and artworks. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Photography

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. To 25 Oct: Berlin 1945/46 focuses on the harsh effects WWII had on Germany immediately after the war as well as those who rebuilt Berlin. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free, free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

All types of photography, from the 19th century to the present, are on exhibit at this comprehensive museum, housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps. The diverse exhibitions are curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection, while the lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 15 Nov: Newton. Horvat.

Brodziak. Newton’s works are shown in conjunction with those of fashion and portrait photographers Frank Horvat and Szymon Brodziak. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Martin-Gropius-Bau

Museum of Things

Märkisches Museum

Showcases a varied selection of objects representing 20th-century design and everyday photography exhibition spaces and an important culture, from kitsch souvenirs to TV sets and teddy example of early 20th-century architecture, the bears. Thu–Mon noon–7pm. €5/3. imposing building combines Italian Renaissance www.museumderdinge.de. Oranienstr. 25. T: elements with local features, such as a series 030.92106311. U Kottbusser Tor. F4 of German cities depicted between the windows and mosaics of allegorical Neues Museum figures. From 4 Sep: Piet Mondrian.

MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust The Line features the artistic of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s developments of one of the most The brand name “Leica” top attraction. Examine a iconic 20th century artists. From 11 is a combination of owner world-famous Egyptian collection Sep: From Hockney to Holbein Ernst Leitz’s surname that includes many important focuses on 250 of the 16,000 works and the word papyruses, while hundreds of found in the Würth private collection. “camera.” artifacts relate early human history.

Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary Badly damaged during WWII and left depending on exhibition. abandoned until the 1980s, the museum www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. reopened in 2009. To 16 Nov: Egypt’s Emergence T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4 into History takes a look at the origins of early Egyptian culture, focusing on the mastery of Menschen Museum mediums such as stone and ivory. Tue–Fri The internationally popular touring exhibition 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm.

Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3.

Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, body parts and reveals their inner structures. The S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on Pergamon Museum specific organs and diseases. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thPanoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 century archeology excavations. The imposing Museum of Asian Art Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks This important collection of East Asian and Indian is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from works includes fabulous lacquered objects, Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art palace, and many other splendorous testimonies along the Silk Route. To 20 Sep: The Avalanche of to the ancient world. From September 2014 to all of the Mustard Seed explores the relationship between 2019, the altar room will be closed for restoration.

Chinese painting and woodblock printing and the To 18 Oct: Aatifi – News From Afghanistan explores subsequent effect on Chinese art as a whole. To artist Aatifi’s modified and aesthetically reduced 18 Oct: Global Images in Motion offers a look into calligraphy in relation to the culturally-rich Islamic the consequences of urban expansion in Xian Cun, world. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun an area within Guangzhou. To 6 Jan: RAGAMALA 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. examines music and love in relation to Indian music 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, theory. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm.

S Hackescher Markt. E3 €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25.

T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

The Leica Legacy The invention of the 35mm Leica camera in 1913 was a watershed in photography. The device’s compact size, high-performance lens, and relatively fast shutter speed allowed for a spontaneity that was once unimaginable to photographers, who were accustomed to clunky mechanisms incapable of unstaged shots. Some of the early 20th century’s most iconic images – Robert Capa’s The Falling Soldier and Henri CartierBresson’s puddle-jumping Parisian – were captured by Leica lenses. Eyes Wide Open! at C/O Berlin (p. 44) displays more than 300 photographs, magazines, and books documenting 100 years of Leica photography and how the brand forever changed the face of the art form. Until 1 Nov.

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once housed Berlin’s post office museum.

Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone

Art galleries

Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue

Alfred Eisenstaedt, VJ Day, Times Square, NY, 14. August 1945 © Alfred Eisenstaedt, 2014 / Leica Camera AG

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and

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berliner galerien +museen INFO GUIDE

The citywide art guide BERLINER GALERIEN contains the current exhibition program for Berlin‘s art galleries and museums. Easy-to-use street maps provide clear directions to the exhibition venues. The guide is now available free of charge at Berlin’s art galleries and museums, visitBerlin tourist information, selected hotels, restaurants, bars and can also be downloaded from www.berliner-galerien.de. Check it out!

Connecting Contemporary Art Promoting Artists Serving collections at more than 60 spaces since 20 years – the Berlin Galleries of lvbg!

Members Galerie Albrecht Galerie ART CRU Galerie Berlin Galerie Berlin-Baku EDITION BLOCK Galerie Brockstedt Berlin Brutto gusto C&Kunterwegs Galerie CAMERA WORK Circleculture Gallery Galerie cubus-m de freo gallery Galerie Deschler Berlin Galerie Horst Dietrich Galerie Kai Dikhas Galerie Dittmar Galerie Eigenheim entretempo kitchen gallery Galerie Friedmann-Hahn galerie gerken Grundemark Nilsson Gallery Galerie Michael Haas Galerie Hartwich Rügen Galerie Hirschmann Carlos Hulsch Galerie Hunchentoot Galerie IRRGANG Berlin janinebeangallery Jarmuschek + Partner JORDAN/SEYDOUX KÖPPE Contemporary GALERIE KORNFELD LEE galerie BERLIN Galerie LEO.COPPI Galerie Gilla Lörcher Anna Jill Lüpertz Gallery Galerie Martin Mertens mianki Gallery Robert Morat Galerie Salongalerie ››Die Möwe‹‹ Galerie Georg Nothelfer photo edition berlin Podbielski Contemporary Galerie Poll Michael Reid Gallery Galerie ROOT SCHMALFUSS BERLIN Galerie Thomas Schulte Galerie Michael Schultz Semjon Contemporary Galerie Sievi Galerie Springer Berlin subject object TAMMEN & PARTNER TVDÁRT Galerie Werkstattgalerie Westphal-Berlin Michael J. Wewerka Wichtendahl Galerie Woeske Gallery ZELLERMAYER Galerie ZHONG GALLERY zone B Sustaining Member Allianz SE - Repräsentanz Berlin Galleries Association of Berlin (lvbg) Landesverband Berliner Galerien e.V. Mohrenstraße 63 D-10117 Berlin-Mitte www.berliner-galerien.de

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MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10.

T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art.

To 20 Sep: Impressionism–Expressionism. Art at a

Turning Point traces the similarities and differences between the two movements and examines their enduring popularity. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr.

1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Berlinische Galerie

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art. To 13 Sep: ONE GOD– Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile takes a closer look at Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from antiquity to the Middle Ages. To 27 Sep: The Lost Museum commemorates the end of WWII and the loss of numerous works of art in the two fires that occurred in the Friedrichshain bunker. To 30 Sep: I Gave Gold for Iron focuses on the shortage of metal during WWI and the subsequent emergency printing of money in Germany and Austria. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

C/O Berlin Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era.

To 1 Nov: Rudi Meisel. Compatriots 1977-1987 Two Germanys. The underlying similarities between the then-firmly established East and the West are documented in Meisel’s inquisitive photography.

To 1 Nov: Eyes Wide Open! highlights more than 300 works by renowned Leica photographers and how the Leica influenced 20th century photography.

Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org.

Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí - The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work.

Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. From Sep 16: STADT/BILD. Xenopolis is one of four in a series of Berlin Art Week exhibits that examines various aspects of the city, and extends after Art Week is over. Daily

Art That Spans The Centuries The Würth collection is one of the most important private collections in Germany, comprising over 16,000 works from modern artists as well as masterpieces from the Middle Ages. Around 250 significant works are coming to Berlin and will be presented at the Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 42) in the exhibition From Hockney to Holbein. The Würth Collection in Berlin. One of the most significant paintings of the 16th century, Hans Holbein the Younger’s The Madonna With The Family Of Mayor Meyer, will be on display, along with David Hockney’s season cycle and prominent artists such as Pablo Picasso, Edvard Munch, and Henry Moore.

Another highlight is the 25-piece monumental installation The Last Judgement Sculpture from British artist Anthony Caro, constructed in the venue’s spectacular atrium.

From 11 Sep. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030 254860. www.berlinerfestspiele.de 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle. de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 27 Sep: Spitting Images follows the inspiration and execution of Anton van Dyck’s portrait prints. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. To 11 Oct: Hans Arp. The Navel of Avant-Garde revisits the innovation and newly-discovered works of the radical cofounder of Dadasim, Hans Arp. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof CL904 MUST SEE

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 6 Sep: Moby Dick. Installations by Michael Beutler, occupying and transforming spaces through cultural intervention. To 27 Sep: Black Mountain: An Interdisciplinary Experiment explores the legendary American arts college, which existed 1933-1957

near Asheville, North Carolina. To 11 Oct: Two by Two. First joint exhibition of New York-based post-Abstract Expressionists Mary Heilmann and David Reed. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51.

T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. From Sep. 18: Extended Reality, works by Polish conceptual artist Alicja Kwade; presented as part of Berlin Art Week. Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de.

Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to Berlin, the city in which he was born in 1920. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

The Museum of Photography occupies the two upper floors of the building. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmut-newton.de.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

KW Institute for Contemporary Art CL904A venerable contemporary art institution with exhibition spaces tucked into a back courtyard in the heart of Mitte’s gallery district, the KunstWerke also organizes the Berlin Biennale every

David Hockney, Three Trees Near Thixendale, Autumn, 2008, © David Hockney 2015, Photo by Richard Schmidt.

A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 26 Oct: Radically Modern, the first-ever comprehensive exhibition on Berlin’s architectural heritage and urban development. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

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summer. Wed–Mon 12–7pm, Thu until 9pm. €6/4 (Thu from 5pm €4). www.kw-berlin.de. Auguststr.

69. T: 030.2434590. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3.

T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities,” hundreds of mysterious and sometimes eerie objects. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Extended in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 20 Sep: Sideways Henri Laurens/Pablo Picasso. For the third installment of the exhibition, works are paired together to encourage new interpretations of the respective artists’ works focusing on pregnancy. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection, next to the Charlottenburg Palace and across from the Museum Berggruen, now houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dali, René Magritte, and Jean Dubuffet. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U SophieCharlotte-Platz. A3

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi-bunker-turned-art-gallery. Open by appointment only (book online). €12/6. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Commercial Galleries Brutto Gusto Fine Arts, from 12 Sep to 31 Oct: Morten Løbner Espersen: Seven Deadly Sins. Ceramic. Torstr. 175. www.bruttogusto. com. Galerie Georg Nothelfer, from 17-24 Sep: Thomas Hartmann: The Self and the Other.

Painting, Drawing. Corneliusstr. 3. www.galerienothelfer.de. Galerie Horst Dietrich, from 8-26 Sep: Thomas Ankum & Birgitta ten Berge.

Painting. Giesebrechtstr. 19. www.galeriedietrich. de. Galerie Springer, from 12 Sep to 7 Nov: Anna Lehmann-Brauns: New Photographs.

Photography. Fasanenstr. 13. www.galeriespringer. de. zone b, from 12 Sep to 23 Oct: Antje Dorn: Picking Flowers. Painting, Drawing, Sculpture.

Brunnenstr. 149. www.zone-b.info.

Mi-Mo 10-19 Uhr, Di geschl., 24.12. u. 31.12. geschl., Feiertage geöffnet Online-Tickets: www.gropiusbau.de

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Berlin's Own Barbecue Belt From sticky ribs to pulled pork, Hilda Hoy feasted on some American-style barbecue, the finger-lickin’-good food trend taking Berlin by storm.

F

or years, the predominant American culinary import in town was the good old burger. But recently, a new delicacy has been giving the beef patty a run for its money: American barbecue, the kind eaten with passion across a wide swath of the South, from Texas to Kentucky to North Carolina, the so-called “barbecue belt.”

The forerunner of the trend in Berlin was Big Stuff Smoked BBQ (Eisenbahnstr.

42–43, www.bigstuff.de), which opened in 2012 with a real-deal meat smoker imported all the way from Tennessee. Back then, Big Stuff was the only place in Berlin to get pork shoulder properly smoked for hours over

wood chips, or fall-apart-tender beef brisket smothered in zesty BBQ sauce. Years later, it’s still as popular as ever, drawing hungry meat-lovers to the Big Stuff stand inside Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun, where they sit on picnic tables inside the 1890s market hall to enjoy their feast.

On the other end of the city is Pignut BBQ (Arminiussstr. 2, www.pignut.de), a more recent arrival with a similar setup inside the Arminius market hall in Moabit.

It’s well worth traveling off the tourist track to sample the authentic Alabama-style BBQ – think ribs, pulled pork, and chicken, all incredibly tender and rich with the scent of proper hickory smoke. Choose from sides of

coleslaw, fries, baked beans, and pickle spears, plus a solid selection of craft beers and bourbon to wash it all down.

Last but definitely not least on Berlin’s BBQ roster is Mitte's Chicago Williams BBQ (p.

51), the only one of the three to have its own sit-down restaurant location. The meaty menu includes some European-inspired items such as salsiccia and merguez sausages and even escargots, but regulars would advise you to come hungry and go wholehog with one of the meat platters. You’ll want to add a side of creamy mac and cheese to the pile of ribs, pork, and chicken, then finish up by licking the last tasty remnants of sauce from every finger.

Left and top right: © Timmo Screiber; bottom right: Courtesy of Big Stuff Smoked BBQ.

DINING

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CHARMING | CASUAL | BERLIN

ONLY FOR GOURMETS

CREATIVE | MODERN | REGIONAL

ENJOY SOPHISTICATED, UNCOMPLICATED DELICACIES FROM BUSINESS LUNCHES AND CASUAL FINE DINING TO CURRIED SAUSAGE WITH CHAMPAGNE.

RESTAURANT DUKE AT ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN OPEN: MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM 11.30 AM TO 11 PM +49 (0)30 68 315 4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN

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DINING DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor

Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€–€€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco. com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45.

T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

a.choice

Fischers Fritz

Part of the andel’s Hotel, a.choice brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106.

T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, L, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030. 89738628.

S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank has built himself a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Vegetarian options available. Warm, wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio for the warmer months. €€€. WedSun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-LinckeUfer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers great views of the city along with the Michelin-starred French-German cuisine of chef Thomas Kammeier. Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin. com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, and the masterful hand of chef Hendrik Otto is evident in every taste. €€€€. Tue– Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal

Young, energetic, and full of fresh ideas: The dynamic vibe of Berlin has made the capital a hub in the European startup scene. That same vibe permeates Factory Berlin, a massive new technology campus and startup incubator funded by Google, that's attracted such notable tech tenants as SoundCloud, Twitter, and Uber. The latest star to set up at Factory is Michelin-starred chef Tim Raue, who opened his fourth restaurant, studio TIM RAUE, at the Prenzlauer Berg tech campus earlier this year. The caliber of the weekday business-lunch specials is befitting of Raue’s star-chef pedigree, while the price point remains midday-friendly, and in the evenings, foodies can look forward to prix-fixe dinner menus ranging from five to 12 courses. Raue’s fondness for Asian cuisines is one of his calling cards, and the changing menu may include Thai-influenced delicacies such as sea bream with lily blossoms or spicy papaya salad with red prawns.

Rheinsberger Str. 76–77. T: 030 44310950. www.factoryberlin.com/studio

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. How about some licorice algae or miso praline? €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu.

Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course

© Nils Hasenau

Startups Meet Star Chefs

The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11-13.

T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

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/maximiliansberlin /maximiliansberlin “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Enjoy EnjoyGermany Germany Traditional Traditionalbavarian food, Bbavarianfood, served servedininananextraordinary, extraordinary, very verytypical typicalenvironment. environment.

Vau Managing to be both luxurious and minimalist at the same time, the Michelin-starred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city.

Headed by star chef Kolja Kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a TV cooking show, the Vau kitchen combines the best of French and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54-55. T: 030.2029730.

U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

CHARLOTTENBURGWILMERSDORF Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23.

T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Friedrichstr.

Friedrichstr.

185–190 185–190 · U-Bhf. · U-Bhf. Stadtmitte Stadtmitte Tel.: Tel.: 030 030 - 20 20 4545 0505 5959 · www.maximiliansberlin.de · www.maximiliansberlin.de Tel: 030 -- 20450559

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

NENI Mediterranean. From its location in a glass penthouse atop the 25Hours Hotel, casual-hip NENI offers panoramic views and a fresh, creative fusion of Mediterannean, Middle Eastern, and North African culinary flavors. Many dishes on the diverse menu can be ordered in various sizes, with the goal of making the meal a sharing experience. €€. Daily L&D. www.25hours-hotels. com. Budapester Str. 40. T: 030.120221200. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine.

Housed in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters, designed for sharing, tempts as much as do the sumptuous main dishes and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41.

T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berlin charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING www.barcomis.de. Bergmannstr. 21.

T: 030.6948138. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city.

The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Restaurant Richard French/Swiss. The nondescript street belies the splendor of Richard’s gourmet creations and interior, which includes carved wooden ceilings and stained-glass. The 19th-century architecture gets a modern boost from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174.

T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Bavarian Bacchanalia Don’t let the name deceive you: Oktoberfest, Bavaria’s world-famous annual beer festival, actually begins in September, and the German capital has plenty of options to feast and drink in traditional Oktoberfest style. For the big, raucous beer-tent experience, make the trip to the fairgrounds on Kurt-Schumacher-Damm, where Berliner Oktoberfest (25 Sep–18 Oct, www.berliner-oktoberfest.de) promises giant steins of beer and culinary specialties like pretzels and pork knuckles. A more centrally located but equally traditional Oktoberfest experience can be found near Alexanderplatz at Hofbräuhaus (Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30, www.hofbraeuhaus-berlin. de), a franchise of the famous 16th-century brewery in Munich. Pair your beer with a plate of Weißwurst, tender white veal sausages served with sweet mustard and a chewy pretzel. Any true-blooded Bavarian would also urge you to sample the Wurstsalat, a tasty concoction of sliced sausage in a vinegary, oniony dressing.

Reservations are recommended.

Another Bavarian-style outpost is Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt (this page), a beer hall and restaurant run by Munich’s Augustiner brewery, where you can enjoy freshly tapped beer with hearty regional meat favorites. Go for gold with the Augustiner platter, heaped high with four kinds of meat, dumplings, sauerkraut, and potato salad.

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. Religious influences aside, the thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items.

Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49.

T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.

schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16.

T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit

Mitte Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle Italian. The owners of this neighborhood favorite take pride in sourcing top-quality ingredients directly from their home country of Italy. Besides the homemade pastas, the creative, seasonal antipasti are a menu highlight. Their next-door mozzarella bar serves fresh mozzarella and burrata made by hand near Naples. €€. Daily D, closed Tue. www.alcontadino.eu. Auguststr. 36.

T: 030.2819023. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt German. The smells, sounds, and tastes of Bavaria are alive and well at this popular beer hall and restaurant run by Munich’s Augustiner brewery, one of the most popular Bavarian beers. Enjoy freshly tapped beer with a menu of hearty, meaty Bavarian food favorites. €€. Daily L&D. www.augustiner-braeu-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.20454020. U Französische Straße. E3

Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, Balikci Ergün allows diners to cobble together a meal Turkish. This quirky hole-in-the-wall, with encompassing a wide range of tastes the look and feel of a fish market, and ingredients. When in Mitte, try serves fresh seafood the traditional their second location at Rosenthaler Turkish way. Fried sardines and Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. grilled catch-of-the-day fillets are At Oktoberfest and year www.transit-restaurants.com. served simply with lush salads, round, raise your beer Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. lemon wedges, and warm Turkish and give a hearty "Prost!"

S Ostkreuz. Off Map bread. €€. Daily D. – that's German for Lüneburger Str. 382. "cheers."

T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Did you know?

Kreuzberg

Barcomi’s

Barist

Café. American founder Cynthia Barcomi was one

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business

of the first to popularize American desserts in Berlin; think fudgy brownies, pecan pie, and New York cheesecake. All those and more have been on offer at her Kreuzberg café since 1994, as well as bagel sandwiches, quiches, and soup. Second location at Sophienstr. 21, Mitte. €. Daily B, L, D.

lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends can all be found right in the heart of Mitte’s busiest neighborhood. Located in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station, this spot with a big terrace out front makes for a perfect meal break any time of day. €€. Daily

© Thinkstock

for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €.

Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040.

S Savignyplatz. B4

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities and journalists from the Tageszeitung newspaper upstairs. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23.

T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

The Brooklyn American. This subterranean meat-lovers’ paradise

specializes in American-style steaks. Filet mignon, porterhouse, chateaubriand, and steak tartare are all represented, plus a burger made from the finest rib eye. €€€. Daily L&D. www.thebrooklyn.de.

Köpenicker Str. 92. T: 030.20215820. U Märkisches Museum, U Heinrich-Heine-Straße. F3

Café Einstein Stammhaus German/Austrian. The 1878 villa housing this

Viennese-style coffee house has survived a storied history. Today, the establishment is back to its former grandeur and makes for a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with coffee and a book. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein. com. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. Meals come served on a plastic tray, but with meat this delicious, who needs plates? €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq.de.

Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant – down a concrete back alley and up graffitied stairs. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to the mastery of celebrity chef Stephan "Cookie" Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com.

Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940.

U Französische Straße. E3

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

American. A culinary ambassador for the American

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like

German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination.

Chicago Williams BBQ

Located on the roof of the Reichstag building, the restaurant boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L & D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Paris-Moskau International. This rustic house, built in 1898

and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a pub and a Russian restaurant in two of its many past lives. Today, it’s a fine restaurant that seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German culinary influences. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141.

T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s homegrown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the highest caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabua-adlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Prenzlauer Berg Anna Blume Café. A favorite on the extensive brunch menu includes a lavish breakfast smorgasbord that feeds four or more people. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Kollwitzstr. 83.

T: 030.44048749. U Eberwalderstraße. F2

The Bird

Courtesy of DUDU31

Western Revival In recent years, evidence has been mounting that Berlin’s stately and perhaps placid west – long considered the wallflower in comparison to the city's much-hyped center and trendy east – is experiencing a revival. The latest triumph for West Berlin fans: the opening of Dudu31 in Charlottenburg. An offshoot of the much-loved Asian-fusion Dudu in Mitte, west-side Dudu31 makes its mark with a menu of creative sushi rolls and fresh, inventive dishes, deftly melding flavors from across the Asian continent. All the most popular items from the Mitte location – including the Crunchy Dudu Roll, yellowfin tuna and avocado sushi with a coat of crispy tempura – have migrated west, where the newer location features a slick designer interior befitting the ritzy shopping district of Ku’damm. Since the Charlottenburg location is already as popular as the Mitte one, reservations are strongly recommended.

Bleibtreustr. 31. T: 030.57795577. www.dudu31.de

American. The hefty burgers here have a real cult following, and many swear they’re the best in the city. Vegetarians will leave hungry. €. Daily L&D. www.thebirdinberlin.com. Am Falkplatz 5.

T: 030.51053283. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12.

T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54.

T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

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Marco Müller OUTSTANDING WINES AND FINE CUISINE

It’s not just the rich and excellent wine selection that surprises guests, but also the many creations of chef Marco Müller: each dish is a masterpiece of art and flavor. It’s no wonder Müller and his team received a Michelin star and 17 Gault-Milau points. We are looking forward to your visit!

OPEN THU – SAT, CLOSED SUN AND MON

Restaurant: 6:30 –10:30pm Wine bar: 4 –11pm CHAUSSEESTRASSE 8, 10115 BERLIN-MITTE TEL: +49 (0)30 24628760 | WWW.WEINBAR-RUTZ.DE

Berlin

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

®

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THE

where GUIDELINES

ENTERTAINMENT

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: Above-ground train system U: Underground MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 72-73.

Opening Hours Opening hours vary so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on some Sundays of the year. In 2014, these are: 9 March, 4 May, 7 September, 5 October, 9 November, 7 December, and 21 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030 25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events and sights.

Muse, Macklemore & Ryan Lewis, and Sam Smith: Courtesy of Lollapalooza Berlin 2015; The Libertines: Photo by by Roger Sargent.

Tourist Info Points: Neues Kranzler Eck – Kurfürstendamm 22, Mon–Sat 9:30am–8pm.

Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Lollapallooza Conquers Berlin Never one to ignore her Muse, Jenna Rose Robbins got the scoop on the first European edition of Perry Farrell’s musical juggernaut.

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ay back in 1991, when plaid flannel and grunge garb were still de rigueur club wear, Lollapalooza shook up the American music-festival scene by daring to feature both an unorthodox mix of genres and non-musical attractions, including sideshow freaks and Buddhist monks. And it did something else that other fests didn’t: It went on the road.

Some 20 years and several rejiggerings later, Perry Farrell’s brainchild is making its first landing on this side of the Pond, and the former Jane’s Addiction frontman has chosen Berlin – naturally – for the European inauguration. Headlining the two-day shindig is none other than Muse, who some consider the best live act of our time. The English rockers are supported by

the likes of Seeed and Berlin’s own punkrock Beatsteaks, as well as perennial indie favorites Belle & Sebastian and the recently combined forces of Franz Ferdinand & Sparks (billed, appropriately, as FFS). Farrell himself has announced he will DJ on his eponymous side stage.

Debuting at the Berlin Lolla is Fashionpalooza, a designated area of Tempelhof that is both an interactive nod to style’s role in the music industry as

well as a performance area for the likes of Macklemore & Ryan Lewis, The Libertines, and Sam Smith. Another European first for the fest: Kidzapalooza, a sideshow for the under-14 crowd, which will feature such entertainment as a cinema and kid-hop from Deine Freunde.

One-day and full-festival passes are available.

12-13 Sep, Tempelhof Park (p. 38). www.lollapaloozade.com www.wheretraveler.com 53

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ENTERTAINMENT

Berlin’s Annual Aural Feast

KulturBrauerei: See the best current films from all corners of the globe in their original language version – regularly in our programme!

Info and tickets at cinestar.de

Ballet & Opera

Classical Concerts

Deutsche Oper

Berliner Dom

A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic.

Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 9, 17, 19 Sep: Pelleas and Melisande (DeBussy). 26 Sep: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 12, 20, 25, 27 Sep: Turandot (Puccini). 26 Sep: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 30 Sep: The Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky) performed by the Staatsballett. www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 10, 13, 18, 20, 25 Sep: Ball at the Savoy. www.komische-oper-berlin.de.

Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s world-renowned ballet company performs at various locations around the city. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its permanent home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater.

Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

14 Sep: Guy Braunstein Quintet. 20 Sep: Broadway Meets Baroque. 24 Sep: Konzerthaus Orchestra, cond. Andrey Boreyko, with violinist Vadim Gluzman. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other acclaimed ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 2-20 Sep: Musikfest Berlin (various concerts).

14 Sep: London Symphony Orchestra, cond. Sir John Eliot Gardiner. 18, 23 Sep: Schuman and Brahms by Berliner Philharmoniker, cond. Rattle. 19 Sep: Isabelle Faust. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

© Stephan Rabold

Travel the world at

Part of the annual Berliner Festspiele festival, Musikfest Berlin brings the best international orchestras and performers to the capital, with the Philharmonie and the Kammermusiksaal hosting the majority of performances. Traditionally, Musikfest heralds the beginning of the new concert season – and it does so in grand style, with 19 days overflowing with more than 30 events. Highlights of this year’s festival include American ensembles the San Francisco Symphony and Boston Symphony Orchestra, as well as first-timers the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra and the Royal Danish Orchestra, the oldest orchestra in Europe, with roots reaching back to 1448.

Don’t miss the eclectic finale performance by the Berliner Philharmoniker, led by Sir Simon Rattle. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Movie Theaters

on this month Plays & Musicals Beyond The Horizon (Hinterm Horizont)

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale film festival offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Rock, Pop, Jazz & World A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm. Sun free entry after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de.

Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550.

S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Theater am Potsdamer Platz (p. 57), all month

Blue Man Group Bluemax Theatre (p. 57), all month

Ich War Noch Niemals In New York Theater des Westens (p. 57), all month

Stars In Concert Estrel Festival Center (p. 56), all month

West Side Story Komische Oper (p. 54), all month

The Wyld Friedrichstadt-Palast (p. 57), all month

Beyond the Horizon

Ballet & Classical The Magic Flute (Mozart) 26 Sep, Deutsche Oper (p. 54)

The Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky) 30 Sep, Staatsballett at Deutsche Oper (p. 54)

Musikfest Berlin 2-20 Sep, various venues (See box on previous page)

Pop, Rock & Jazz Courtesy of Hinterm Horizont

Linkin Park 3 Sep, Stadion An Der Alten FĂśrsterei

Sufjan Stevens 16-17 Sep, Admiralspalast (p. 57)

Marc Almond 18 Sep, C-Club, Columbiadamm 9-11

U2 24-25, 28-29 Sep, Mercedes-Benz Arena (See box, p. 8)

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ENTERTAINMENT

The Godfather Of British Blues

The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4.

T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat at 8:30pm, Sun at 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Kulturbrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as an überpopular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring concerts and sports events. Home to Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benzarena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30.

T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

Courtesy of Trinity Music

Born in 1933 in a small English city, John Mayall still managed to be smitten by the African-American blues culture exploding a continent away. Thanks to his neighbor’s piano, a borrowed guitar, and a used harmonica, the impressionable lad developed an unmistakable style that has allowed him to enjoy a career spanning five decades.

Although some say his heyday ended in the 1960s – when he was frontman for the Bluesbreakers, which has counted such musical legends as Eric Clapton among its members – Mayall has been experiencing a renaissance as of late, and now tours in support of his new studio album, Find A Way To Care. His Hands That Play The Blues Tour hits Huxleys Neue Welt on 2015 on 24 September.

Hasenheide 107. T: 030 78099810. www.huxleysneuewelt.com

Arena

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ENTERTAINMENT SO36

Bluemax Theater

The heart of Kreuzberg’s former radical scene now features a program that ranges from punk and hard-rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Daily shows, except Mon. www.stage-entertainment.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts. 25 Sep: Bryan Ferry. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

features musicals and international performances.

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Inside the Hackeschen Höfen, Rosenthaler Str. 40/41.

T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater.

All month: The Wyld, a Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. Shows every day except Monday. www.palast-berlin.eu. Friedrichstr.

107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Theater am Potsdamer Platz The 1800-seat theater designed by Renzo Piano

All month: Beyond the Horizon (Hinterm Horizont),

musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily, except Mon. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Theater des Westens One of Berlin’s most popular musical and operetta theaters. Until Sep. 27: Ich War Noch Niemals in New York, musical comedy (in German) with 20 hits by Udo Jürgens, one of the country’s all-time greatest pop stars. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. Until 20 Sep: Cabaret, The Musical: The definitive Berlin musical, directed

by Madonna’s choreographer, Vincent Paterson. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté Mirrored walls, red velvet, and a starry-sky ceiling define this sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudevilleinspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

SEP / OCT 15 16. SEP 15

27. SEP 15 Sunday

Wednesday

8.00 pm

8.00 pm

Abokonzert C/1 PHILHARMONIE BERLIN

MAREK JANOWSKI

Karen Cargill / mezzo-soprano Sabine Puhlmann / soprano Young Wook Kim / bass PART OF THE MUSIKFEST BERLIN 2015

Marek Janowski

6.45 pm pre-concert talk Hermann-Wolff-Saal, introduction

by Steffen Georgi

In cooperation with

Works by GUSTAV MAHLER, ARNOLD SCHÖNBERG, CARL NIELSEN

Broadcasted by

02. OCT 15 Friday

8.00 pm

Abokonzert B/1

Abokonzert A/1

KONZERTHAUS BERLIN

PHILHARMONIE BERLIN

MAREK JANOWSKI

MAREK JANOWSKI

Works by MAX REGER, MODEST PETROWITSCH MUSSORGSKI, JEAN SIBELIUS

A CONCERT ON THE EVE OF THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY OF GERMAN REUNIFICATION

Matti Salminen / bass

Dmitry Korchak / tenor MDR Rundfunkchor Leipzig Philipp Ahmann / chorus master

6.45 pm pre-concert talk Werner-Otto-Saal, introduction

by Steffen Georgi

Works by CLAUDE DEBUSSY, KAROL SZYMANOWSKI, ROBERT SCHUMANN

Broadcasted by

6.45 pm pre-concert talk Südfoyer, introduction

by Steffen Georgi

Broadcasted by

Tickets +49 (0) 30 202 987-15 tickets@rsb-online.de Mo–Fr, 9 am – 6 pm www.rsb-online.de

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NIGHTLIFE

To The Eight Ball – And Beyond

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hat distinguishes one bar from another is the atmosphere, and no factor can influence a bar's atmosphere as much as a unique pastime best enjoyed with a cold brewski in hand.

Such is the case with Dr. Pong (Eberswalder Str. 21, www.drpong.net) in Prenzlauer Berg, where, upon entry, the only object in sight is a dimly illuminated ping pong table centered in the sparsely furnished bar. Games are played in a style typical to Berlin, with all the players circling the table as they take turns hitting (or missing) the ball, until the last two players engage in a feverish match to determine the winner.

What Dr. Pong is to modern and gritty, Tante Lisbeth (Muskauer Str., 49, www. pyonen.de/tantelisbeth) is to vintage and cozy. The Kreuzberg bar’s décor recalls an

overstuffed parlor, with plush vintage furniture dotting the space. Although what’s above ground is rather typical of a bar, the 1970s-style, two-lane bowling alley in the basement is where the true star of Tante Lisbeth lives. Be sure to reserve a time online in advance.

In the same vein of gaming, a visit to video-game bar interFace (Perleberger Str. 17, www. interfacebar.de) in Moabit is never complete without a round or two of such pixelated classics as Super Smash Brothers, Mario Kart, and Tekken.

Tournaments and trivia nights are held regularly for the chance for enthusiasts to win money – preferably to buy the next round.

And there are always the quintessential bar pastimes. In the cavernous first floor of KulturBrauerei, pool is the main attraction at Pool & Cigars (Schönhauser Allee 36), home to more than 20 Brunswick tournament-quality tables. Players of all levels are represented here, so there's no need to worry if your jump-shot isn't up to snuff.

© Thinkstock

Ping pong paddle in one hand and a bowling ball in the other, Serene Tseng sets off to discover the active side of Berlin's bar scene.

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Beer

BRAND NEW BAR

Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm) www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

IN THE HEART OF BERLIN CITY

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2.

T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Dicke Wirtin A Charlottenburg institution, this old-fashioned Berliner Kneipe restaurant serves great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and comforting cuisine, seasonal specialties, and, of course, lots of beer. Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

We are open daily from 6 p.m Brunnenstr.196//10119 Berlin

Schleusenkrug The "beer garden in the Tiergarten" serves German specialties that complement your brew, including a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. 1.

T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Casinos

Discover Europe’s capital of nightlife

Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Clubs 40 Seconds A modern and trendy rooftop club frequented by international stars and urban jetsetters. R&B and soul on Fri, house on Sat. Casual smart/elegant dress code. www.40seconds.de. Potsdamer Str. 58.

T: 030.8906420. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dance hall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorative-chic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1.

T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The perfect place for over-27s to socialize while dancing and drinking offers two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Fri 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info.

Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609.

U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

Berghain/Panorama Bar The club of choice for techno lovers is famous

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Amber Suite

®

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NIGHTLIFE

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. Salsa Monday, tango Tuesday, swing Wednesday, cha cha Thursday, live Tanzkapelle Fri–Sat. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed such celebrities as Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Open Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr.

72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Magnet Club Rock, indie, and punk evenings, and dance floors both indoors and outdoors. Open Tue–Sun. www.magnet-club.de. Falckensteinstr. 48.

T: 030.44008140. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18.

T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl

Solar Self-defined as “an experimental space for free living,” Solar combines food, drinks, art, and music with a selection of resident DJs that spin house and electronica. Spectacular views from the 17th floor. Sun–Thu 6pm–2am, Fri–Sat 6pm–4am. Wed– Sun. www.solarberlin.com. Stresemannstr. 76. T: 0163.7652700. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Suicide Circus Friday is techno night, while Saturdays lean more toward house and tech-house at this trendy and sweaty club, which has hosted some of the biggest DJs in Europe. Outdoor dance floor in summer.

Wed–Sun. www.suicide-berlin.com. Revaler Str. 99.

S Warschauer Straße. H4

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70.

T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-storey electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends.

Mon and Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49.

T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS

One of the most luxurious clubs in town, the Charlottenburg newcomer attracts the poshest crowds from nearly every Kiez in Berlin, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers.

Thu-Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten G4

Bar Tausend

Puro Sky Lounge

You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden next to a Mitte police station.

Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com.

Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12.

T: 030.26367875. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

The Roses Berlin Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straight-friendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187.

T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Salon zur Wilden Renate In an old residential building on the cooler side of Friedrichshain, Wilden Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners. Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www.renate.cc. Alt-Stralau 70. T: 030.25041426.

S Treptower Park, S Ostkreuz. H4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. Dance all night to disco, electro, and techno, Thu-Sun. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97.

T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Buck and Breck

Das Hotel The old wooden tables, chandeliers, and high ceilings at this relaxed bar recall the Paris of yesteryear. Next door, the DJ plays vintage classics from the '60s to the '90s. Daily from 2pm. dashotelclassic. blogspot.de. Mariannenstr. 26a.

T: 030.84118433. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Die Weinerei One euro will get you a glass, which you can fill as many times as you want. Before you leave, leave as much money as you think

Oenophilies should not miss Cordobar (Große Hamburger Str. 32, www. cordobar.net), a top-notch wine bar near Hackescher Markt with an impeccable selection of German and Austrian vintages and a tantalizing menu of tapas-style dishes.

your evening was worth. Friendly, unpretentious atmosphere, and good, organic food. Mon–Fri 1–8pm, Sat 11am–8pm. www.weinerei.com. Veteranenstr. 14.

T: 030.4406983. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50.

T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Knutschfleck Cocktailbörse At Berlin’s first cocktail stock exchange, the more people drink, the more prices drop. Alongside an entertainment program packed full with Moulin Rouge Burlesque nights, Studio 54 dance-offs, karaoke, and open mic on Sundays. www.knutschfleck-berlin.de. Alexanderstr. 3.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

La Banca The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer.

9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com.

Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090.

U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this luxurious bar, which is dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.newton-bar.de.

Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421.

U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de.

Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals any time of night. Lovely garden in summer. 24h except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de.

Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Daily noon to late evening. www.weinrot-restaurant.com.

Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Daily 6:30pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102.

T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

© THINKSTOCK

for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultra-selected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Dress code strictly casual.

Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210.

S Ostbahnhof. G3

60 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2015

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ESSENTIALS Useful Information

Berlin

T DA

IO

O N CI E R G E S

Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

PC

ADVICE

Emergency numbers

TO

RECO M M EN

EXPERT NS

F R O M B E R LI

N’

S

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com

Berlin Airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Ask The Concierge

Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Berlin

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Marc Schiffer, assistant chief concierge at the Ritz-Carlton, is here to help. www.hotelconcierge.de What does it mean to you personally to wear the Golden Keys?

It is a great honor and at the same time a seal of quality for our guests, standing for professional knowledge and outstanding service.

Which events do you recommend in September?

I’m looking forward to this year's Berlin Art Week and Berlin Food Week, but also the Berlin Marathon and the return of musical legends U2.

Describe your perfect Berlin day.

I consider every day as perfect, an opportunity to learn something new. My city never sleeps, and this never-ending chance to discover gives me great joy.

The coziest place in Berlin?

The Wannseeterrassen restaurant and bar is a great place to relax and watch boats sailing on the lake.

Where do you take out-of-town visitors?

Teufelsberg stands out as something unique.

The history of the hill dates back to the times of the German Empire and is also dominated

by Nazism. The mound was formed by the rubble of the bombed-out city.

Secret Berlin tips?

The Beelitzer Heilstätten – the ruins of an old sanatorium serve as a charming backdrop for a photo shoot.

Tips for a German specialty?

I'm a big fan of Boulettes (fried meatballs), but I can’t tell you where to go to get the best ones, as I like to make them myself.

What Berlin spot would you recommend for romance?

The Waldhaus an der Havelchaussee, by the small coves on the eastern shore of Lake Wannsee, is perfect for a date spot. It’s a great place to visit with a small picnic basket and a bottle of wine.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins.

Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

Getting Around Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70, or four-trip tickets for €9, which you can validate as you need. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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ESSENTIALS If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.60. Day tickets cost €6.90 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €16.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €29.50.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every 5 mins (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The whole U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket you can also hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to the lakeside village of Kladow. It leaves every hour and takes about 20 mins.

Rail Travel

Opened in 1902, U Nollendorfplatz recently received a makeover by way of an art nouveau glass dome that resembles the one it had before the war. The area around the U-Bahn station was the home of some of the characters in the musical Cabaret (p. 6). sure your goods are unused. Go to the refund counter and present the stamped form, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de.

Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22.

T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Engel & Voelkers

Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company, including the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de, T: 0180.6996633 (toll number).

Real Estate Agencies

Rent A Bike

Allianz

Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.

Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com.

Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients on a daily basis. They provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmannestate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Berlin Capital Investments

HIHC Horvat

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de.

T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

T: 0180.6003690 (toll number)

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a Tax-Free Form when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent and a customs stamp obtained no later than three months after the date of purchase. Make

Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, whole buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr.

34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Guthmann Estate

Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Check website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com.

T: 030.52009700.

This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. Olympische Str. 1.

T: 030.33099930. U Neu Westend. Off Map

Berlin Hyp Immobilien

Virtu - Finest Real Estate

Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of Berlin commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhypimmobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60.

T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16.

T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren These agents cover a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offer rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30.

T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide.

Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures

Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2.

T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Ziegert Immobilien Has a large portfolio of apartments in all of Berlin’s neighborhoods and helps clients understand the German real estate market, offering advice on investment possibilities. www.ziegert-immobilien. de. Schlüterstr. 54. T: 030.88035350.

S Savignyplatz. B4

© Thinkstock

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

62 W H E R E B E R L I n I S E P T E M B E R 2015

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TRANSPORT MAP

BVG licence number: bvg-0079.13, 4 May 2015.

ESSENTIALS

www.wheretraveler.com 63

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U

My Perfect Day You've been working as a fashion designer in Berlin for quite a few years.

What has changed in the fashion scene during that time?

When I started BUTTERFLYSOULFIRE back in 1999, there was just a handful of brands, but nowadays there are probably about 700 in Berlin. The style has also changed. In the early years, Berlin style was quite experimental and wild. Now it has grown up in a way, become sleeker.

If Berlin were a person, what would their look be?

Perhaps a bit like me: poor but sexy, trying to make the most out of just a little. I always wear white, which is a simple tool to catch people’s attention. But even if I'm always in white, if you take a closer look, you will see that there is always a little hidden blemish, just like Berlin still has its original blemishes.

What is one must-have item from your current collection?

One of my favorite pieces is the WAIST BAG, a very practical under-the-shoulder bag that twists halfway around the body and perfectly combines style and function.

BIKINI-Haus

What are some of your favorite fashion destinations in the city?

I think a must-see fashion spot in Berlin is the BIKINI-Haus, a concept mall near Zoologischer Garten station. It has a very special approach to design and well-selected stores. My brand is represented there in the LNFA store, a 900sq.m (9688sq.ft) concept store focusing on Berlin design.

Which part of Berlin do you call home, and what drew you to it?

I live in Prenzlauer Berg on Kastanienallee, in the city’s former East. I originally moved to Berlin from Potsdam in 1998. I've always lived in the East. It's just home to me.

What about Berlin inspires you?

It's the city's energy that inspires me, not so much places or things. There is always

a creative flow and atmosphere. I am not looking left and right at what others are doing, because I don’t want to lose control over my ideas and not know whether they came from inside me or from something I saw elsewhere.

Thoas Lindner [Fashion Designer]

Fashion designer, performance artist, and poet, Thoas Lindner is something of an enigmatic creative jack-of-all-trades. After working as one half of the label BUTTERFLYSOULFIRE for more than a decade, Lindner left the fashion world for a year only to return in 2014 to launch his own self-named line, a sophisticated, striking, and modern unisex collection that firmly establishes him as one of the capital's most original fashion influencers today. www.thoaslindner.com Some of Lindner's recent designs

Prenzlauer Berg When you have friends visiting, where do you take them?

I like being in Mauerpark on a Sunday. It's a bit like an open-air festival and illustrates the energy of Berlin quite well.

Imagine you have the luxury of a whole day off. What do you do?

Actually, the luxury of a day off for me is to just stay in bed! But the area around my home on Kastanienallee has been developing quite well in the last couple of years. There are some nice bars and restaurants, my favorites being Morning Glory (Kastanienallee 75), Mauerpark which makes the best beet salad, and Hüftengold (Oderberger Str. 27), for a family breakfast.

THOAS LINDNER AND MODELS: COURTESY OF THOAS LINDNER; BIKINI-HAUS: COURTESY OF BIKINI BERLIN; PRENZLAUER BERG AND MAUERPARK: © THINKSTOCK.

[ WHERE IN BERLIN]

Where would you recommend our readers go for a memorable night out?

I am a fan of Kater Blau, the former Bar25. It is like a hippie commune, and I like the combination of clubbing and hanging around on the banks of the Spree River.

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2015

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